CN105377228B - 组合视黄醛和双甘氨肽油酰胺的化妆品或皮肤病学组合物及其化妆品或皮肤病学用途 - Google Patents
组合视黄醛和双甘氨肽油酰胺的化妆品或皮肤病学组合物及其化妆品或皮肤病学用途 Download PDFInfo
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- CN105377228B CN105377228B CN201480039488.7A CN201480039488A CN105377228B CN 105377228 B CN105377228 B CN 105377228B CN 201480039488 A CN201480039488 A CN 201480039488A CN 105377228 B CN105377228 B CN 105377228B
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Abstract
本发明涉及基于视黄醛、双甘氨肽油酰胺、以及如有必要，δ‑生育酚‑吡喃葡萄糖苷的局部组合物，以及其在美容学和皮肤病学中对抗皮肤老化，更特别是光诱导的皮肤老化的用途。
Description
技术领域
本发明的目的是基于视黄醛和双甘氨肽油酰胺(d'oléamide deglycylglycine)，以及如有必要，δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷的局部组合物，其在美容学和皮肤病学中的用途。
背景技术
皮肤的弹性和抵抗力归功于构成皮肤的不同组织层：表皮、真皮和皮下组织。表皮(皮肤的外层)负责皮肤的不透过性和抵抗力。其基本上由角蛋白(一种由角化细胞产生的纤维蛋白)和黑色素(由黑色素细胞生成的主要皮肤色素)组成。随着年龄增长，角化细胞的更新进行得更慢，并且其终末分化减慢。随着时间推移，在真皮发生深刻变化。一种支撑皮肤的组织，其包含80％的弹性纤维和嵌入糖蛋白凝胶中的胶原。成纤维细胞(其是真皮的主要细胞)专门进行这些弹性纤维和胶原的合成。在20至80岁间，成纤维细胞的数量减少一半。它们确保弹性纤维和胶原的合成、成熟和降解之间的平衡。随着时间推移，这种平衡会向着降解这些纤维的方向移动，结果是真皮弹性和张力的损失以及松弛，其不再对抗下方肌肉收缩的作用，导致皱纹的出现。胶原纤维分布在真皮的各层中，其能够结合水，并有助于皮肤的水合作用(hydratation)。胶原的减少和/或其质量的改变导致深皱纹的出现。随着年龄增长，给予组织弹性和坚实性的弹性纤维变得愈发稀少，皮肤变得更薄并形成皱纹。皮肤要不断地面对许多可能加速自然老化过程的外部侵袭。其对于来自自由基的攻击特别敏感，所述自由基通过我们身体的正常活动和外部元素(例如污染、烟草、和特别是太阳辐射)产生。这些自由基是导致皮肤老化的组织和细胞改变的原因。
维生素A(视黄醇)及其天然的和合成的衍生物(统称为类视黄醇)形成大量具有显著作用的各种物质，特别地在胚胎发育、生殖、视觉、生长、炎症、分化、增殖和细胞凋亡中具有显著作用。通过类视黄醇与RAR型核受体(视黄酸受体)和RXR型核受体(视黄酸X受体)的相互作用，介导类视黄醇的生物学效应。已知的RAR受体的配体是维生素A酸形式的反式异构体。
皮肤中含有大量的类视黄醇，以及参与其代谢的酶。类视黄醇是维生素A的天然或合成衍生物。比如天然类视黄醇，可以提及视黄醇及其所有的代谢衍生物、视黄醛、全反式视黄酸、9-顺式-视黄酸、13-顺式-视黄酸及其酯(例如棕榈酸视黄酯)。合成类视黄醇是其中一部分已被修饰的分子，目的是为了使化合物具有与维生素A相关的单种作用。主要的分子有依曲替酯、阿维A酸、他扎罗汀、阿达帕林、贝沙罗汀、莫维A胺(motrétinide)。
人的表皮中含有维生素A的两种主要形式，视黄醇和视黄酯(esters rétinyliques)。通过将视黄醇酯化为视黄酯，将维生素A储存于角化细胞中。该步骤由两种酶催化，酰基辅酶A酰基转移酶和卵磷脂视黄醇酰基转移酶。它们的表达受到UV幅射和角化细胞的分化状态的调控。通过视黄酯水解酶催化视黄酯向视黄醇的水解。另一方面，视黄醇是视黄酸的激素原，其被氧化为视黄醛，视黄醛自身被氧化为视黄酸(维生素A的一种生物活性形式)。鉴于视黄酯在表皮中且主要在角质层中的浓度比在真皮中或进一步地在血液中更高，而且其是维生素A的其他活性形式的前体，因此视黄酯被认为是维生素A的储存形式。类视黄醇(含有多不饱和脂链)的化学性质及其物理特性(赋予其在320至390nm之间的最大吸收)使其能够与UV或与氧相互作用，以产生氧的活性形式或自由基。其可以通过UV异构化。然而在大多数情况中，在UV的作用下类视黄醇完全被破坏。似乎视黄酯比视黄醇更敏感。暴露于日光下的表皮比未暴露的皮肤含有更少的视黄酯，这表明UV诱导维生素A的缺乏(Sorg等人,Dermatology,199(4):302–307,1999)。这个和其它观察结果都支持以下假设：由日光诱导的维生素A的损耗(déplétion)牵涉到某些皮肤癌以及过早老化的发病机制(Sorg等人,Dermatol.Ther.,19(5):289–296,2006)。可以通过维生素A的外部补充弥补这种损耗。
已知局部应用类视黄醇用于向皮肤补充维生素A。此外，已知在局部应用期间，类视黄醇的主要副作用之一仍然是诱导的刺激。这种作用可能严重阻碍(rédhibitoire)治疗的遵守。
局部视黄醇发挥类似的生物作用，但与局部视黄酸的那些作用相比不那么强烈，但有较小的刺激，通过将视黄醇转化为视黄酸介导这些反应。视黄醇及其酯必须被转化为视黄酸以在人角化细胞中诱导生物作用。以相同的方式，被转化为储存形式(视黄酯)或活性形式(视黄酸)的视黄醛发挥显著的生物活性，并且其比视黄酸耐受性更好(Saurat等人,J.Invest.Dermatol.,103:770–774,1994)。其也是用于在表皮中补充维生素A的良好候选物。已证明通过诱导表皮增生，以及在C57BL/6和无毛SKH1小鼠(无毛小鼠)的滤泡(folliculaire)和滤泡间(interfolliculaire)表皮中CD44和透明质酸表达的显著增加，视黄醛在皮肤中发挥生物活性。在局部应用视黄酸和视黄醇之后也观察到这些作用。然而在用视黄醛处理的小鼠中，CD44和透明质酸的表达增长得更强。CD44是一种多态跨膜糖蛋白，其具有由可变剪接和翻译后变化而产生的数种异构体。已证明在鼠科动物皮肤中CD44的两种主要功能为1)响应细胞外刺激调节角化细胞增殖和2)维持透明质酸的局部平衡(Kaya等人,Genes&Development,11(8):996–1007,1997)。在患有硬化性苔藓(lichen scléro-atrophique)的患者中也观察到表皮CD44表达的降低，其可能是这种疾病中的透明质酸的真皮沉积和表皮萎缩的原因(Kaya等人,J.Invest.Dermatol.,115(6):1054–1058,2000)。
根据皮肤病学中的两种策略实现类视黄醇的应用：
-在治疗皮肤病理学的情况中的药理剂量下，视黄酸的应用(0.025％至0.1％的凝胶或霜剂)具有治疗痤疮的主要适应症。其还用于治疗光老化和日光性角化症。他扎罗汀被用于治疗银屑病(0.05％至0.1％的凝胶)。对于莫维A胺(0.1％霜剂或洗剂)，其被用于治疗轻度痤疮。
-对于化妆品目的：棕榈酸视黄酯(0.5％至5％的凝胶)、视黄醇(0.1％至0.6％)和视黄醛(0.05％)被用于抗老化治疗和恢复性护理。
太阳辐射包括可见光、紫外线(UV)、红外线和其他电磁辐射。正如可见光可以被分开为多种颜色，以同样的方式也可以将UV分类为三个分支：
-UVA(315-400nm)代表到达地球表面的UV的主要部分。它们导致皮肤晒黑，并且因为它们容易穿透组织，所以可能会深度损伤皮肤。
-UVB(280–315nm)代表到达地面的射线的小得多的部分，但是对于日光暴露的连续生物作用具有显著的贡献。它们可能引起发红、灼伤、晒黑、眼部损伤。它们对皮肤的穿透较低。
-UVC(200–280nm)几乎完全被大气的臭氧层吸收。它们只是非常轻微地穿透皮肤，但是可能引起眼部损伤。
UV对皮肤的主要作用是红斑、光衰老、皮肤癌。在暴露于UV后，在表皮和真皮中金属蛋白酶的表达增加。这些改变真皮中胶原的产生的酶有助于皱纹的出现。通过反复暴露维持这些酶的诱导(Fisher等人,N.Engl.J.Med.,337:1419–1428,1997)。由于弹性材料的积累导致真皮加厚。UV照射后表皮产生的白细胞介素有助于结缔组织的破坏。似乎在真皮中观察到的作用可能归因于UVA，不同于UVB其穿透很远的距离。在无毛小鼠中，像在人中一样，在用UVB长期照射后观察到增生和皱纹的出现，并且皮肤在UVA的作用下变得松弛。所观察到的作用取决于照射的波长。在用295至300nm之间的波长照射后，真皮变得更厚，胶原纤维被破坏并产生异常弹性纤维，这被称为弹性组织变性。在用UVA照射10周之后，不再有任何正常的弹性纤维。
许多研究已经允许建立起慢性日光暴露和发展为皮肤癌的倾向之间的联系。进一步地，UV改变某些基因例如p53，该基因负责在DNA水平去除或修复损伤。UVB和UVA对人类细胞免疫的作用并不相同。UVA致癌性较弱。因此，UVB在日光暴露的致癌作用中发挥主导作用。色素沉积是对UV的基本敏感性中涉及的要素。被黑色素细胞的黑色素吸收的UVA将成为皮肤癌的起源。事实上，UVA是黑素瘤的发生的原因，但是UVB也是其发展直至转移的原因。
视黄醛和视黄酸的主要适应症为光损伤(héliodermie)的治疗，其对应于常常过早的、由慢性和/或长时间暴露于日光下而产生的皮肤老化。损伤直接取决于所接受的剂量。
下式的双甘氨肽油酰胺：
CH3–(CH2)7–CH＝CH–(CH2)7–CO–NH–CH2–CO–NH–CH2–COOH是一种来自油酸和双甘氨肽二肽的缩合的脂肽或酰基肽。
双甘氨肽油酰胺因其在液体洗涤剂组合物中的表面活性剂性能而被知晓(US4732690和JP 5984994)。专利EP 1061897的目的是双甘氨肽油酰胺用于制备组合物的用途，所述组合物旨在更一般地通过刺激细胞代谢，对抗结缔组织的蛋白纤维的糖化和弹性组织变性。
在自然状态下，在许多植物中，α-生育酚或维生素E通常与其他化合物如β-生育酚、γ-生育酚或δ-生育酚一起被发现。α-生育酚主要用于对抗维生素E缺乏，或者作为营养因子，特别地用于对抗肌肉退化。在非常特定的剂量，其还被用作抗氧化剂。含有这些生育酚的美容组合物已经是市售可得的。然而，已证明在温和的氧化条件下，这些抗氧化剂在皮肤上的直接应用导致促炎症作用，所述促炎症作用是在常用浓度下过度活跃(suractivité)的结果。因此，这些生育酚中的许多结构性改变已经给出了限制副作用的可能性，允许它们用于治疗或预防皮肤的其它疾病或病症。因此，WO 98/51679公开了在化妆品或药物组合物中的生育酚酯。在国际申请中描述了这些生育酚酯是抗自由基、抗炎、促进角化细胞的分化、改善皮肤水合作用和皮肤纹理的光滑度、用于预防或治疗皮肤老化作用、具有亮肤活性或对神经末梢的麻醉作用。专利EP 1062223描述了在美容学或皮肤病学中，更特别地在皮肤疾病(特应性皮炎、痤疮、银屑病)的治疗中的活性物质的前体。该发明的主题涉及葡糖脑苷脂酶的用途，所述葡糖脑苷脂酶是一种存在于所有细胞中的溶酶体酶，且因此天然存在于皮肤中。葡糖脑苷脂酶水解活性前体，从而释放生物活性物质。通过这种手段，减少甚至抑制了副作用。该专利还公开了δ-生育酚的碳水化合物前体的用途，以及更特别地δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷的物理化学特性和生物特性。δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷被葡糖脑苷脂酶酶促水解缓慢释放δ-生育酚，其具有比参考衍生物(4-甲基伞花基吡喃葡萄糖苷(4-méthylumbelliféryl glucopyranoside))更低的动力学。这种缓慢释放提供了避免δ-生育酚活性物质过度集中的可能性，因此提供了避免产品应用过程中的任何炎症作用的可能性。因此，活性物质的缓慢释放确保其在皮肤介质中更好的生物利用度，并因此确保更有效的保护。特别地在EP 1062223中，公开了葡萄糖轭合物(glucoconjugués)与游离活性物质相比的极低的活性：特别地，相比于δ-生育酚，δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷具有弱抗氧化潜力。
由申请人进行的研究提供了揭示视黄醛和双甘氨肽油酰胺的组合对角化细胞中类视黄醇代谢的协同作用的可能性。
出人意料地，与视黄醛和双甘氨肽油酰胺相组合的δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷具有对整个真皮的皮肤病学活性，揭示了对抗皮肤老化，更特别地对抗光诱导的皮肤老化的非常显著的作用。因此，三种活性物质的组合对许多基因具有非常广谱的作用，在光诱导老化期间所述基因的表达被改变。
发明内容
本发明的目的涉及包含视黄醛和双甘氨肽油酰胺作为主要成分的化妆品或皮肤病学组合物。
本发明的目的还涉及包含视黄醛和双甘氨肽油酰胺作为活性成分，以及至少一种化妆品或皮肤病学上可接受的载体的化妆品或皮肤病学组合物。
根据另一个实施方案，所述组合物包含视黄醛、双甘氨肽油酰胺和δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷作为活性成分，以及至少一种化妆品或皮肤病学上可接受的载体。
根据一个优选的实施方案，赋形剂以旨在用于局部应用的形式出现。本发明的目的最特别地为在被视为脆弱的皮肤区域的局部应用，所述皮肤区域例如面部、颈部、眼睛的周围和嘴唇的周围。
“载体”意指允许制造、保存和施用化妆品或皮肤病学组合物的任何佐剂或赋形剂。在根据本发明的组合物中可以使用在化妆品或皮肤病学观点上可接受的任何载体，例如选自常用于盖伦(galénique)混合物中的赋形剂。
有利地，根据本发明的组合物含有基于组合物总重量以重量计0.01至1％的视黄醛，优选以重量计0.015至0.1％的视黄醛。
根据本发明一个优选的实施方案，所述组合物含有基于组合物总重量以重量计0.015％的视黄醛。
根据本发明另一个优选的实施方案，所述组合物含有基于组合物总重量以重量计0.05％的视黄醛。
根据本发明又一个优选的实施方案，所述组合物含有基于组合物总重量以重量计0.1％的视黄醛。
有利地，根据本发明的组合物含有基于组合物总重量以重量计0.0001至20％的双甘氨肽油酰胺，优选以重量计0.001至10％的双甘氨肽油酰胺，优选以重量计0.01至1％的双甘氨肽油酰胺，更有利地以重量计0.05至0.5％的双甘氨肽油酰胺。
根据本发明一个优选的实施方案，所述组合物含有基于组合物总重量以重量计0.1％的双甘氨肽油酰胺。
有利地，根据本发明的组合物含有基于组合物总重量以重量计0.001至10％的δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷，优选以重量计0.01至5％的δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷，优选以重量计0.05至0.5％的δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷，更有利地以重量计0.05至0.15％的δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷。
根据本发明一个优选的实施方案，所述组合物含有基于组合物总重量以重量计0.05至0.1％的δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷。
根据本发明优选的实施方案，根据本发明的组合物含有基于组合物总重量0.01至0.1％的视黄醛，0.1％的双甘氨肽油酰胺以及0.05至0.1％的δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷。
根据本发明的组合物可以作为水包油(H/E)乳剂或油包水(E/H)乳剂出现。其还可以作为球剂(sphérules)(例如脂质体、纳米胶囊或纳米球)出现。
可以在本发明中使用的油相为：
‐固体或糊状脂肪相，例如蜂蜡、小烛树蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、石油蜡(或微晶蜡)、石蜡；及其混合物；
‐动物源和/或植物源的油；及其混合物；
‐具有8个以上碳原子的、直链或支链的、饱和或不饱和的合成来源的烃油，例如氢化聚异丁烯(Parleam油)、石蜡油(或凡士林，或液体石蜡)、异链石蜡、柠檬烯、角鲨烯、聚异丁烯或异辛烷；及其混合物；
‐由较高级的脂肪酸形成的油，所述脂肪酸尤其为C10-C22脂肪酸，例如肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、山嵛酸、油酸、亚油酸、亚麻酸或异硬脂酸；
‐由较高级的脂肪醇形成的油，所述脂肪醇尤其为C10-C22醇，例如油醇、亚油醇或亚麻醇、异硬脂醇或辛基十二醇；及其混合物；
‐由直链或支链的、饱和或不饱和的式RCOOR’的酯形成的油，其中R代表包含7至19个碳原子的较高级的脂肪酸的剩余部分，且R’代表包含3至20个碳原子的烃链，所述式RCOOR’特别地为C12-C36酯，例如肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、硬脂酸丁酯、月桂酸己酯、己二酸二异丙酯、异壬酸异壬酯、2-乙基-己基棕榈酸酯、2-己基-癸基月桂酸酯、2-辛基癸基棕榈酸酯、2-辛基十二烷基肉豆蔻酸酯或2-辛基十二烷基乳酸酯、二(2-乙基-己基)琥珀酸酯、苹果酸二异硬脂醇酯、羟基硬脂酸异硬脂醇酯、羟基硬脂酸乙基己基酯、乙基己酸鲸蜡硬脂醇酯、异硬脂酸异硬脂醇酯；及其混合物；
‐由C1-C30羧酸的甘油单酯、C1-C30羧酸的甘油二酯、C1-C30羧酸的甘油三酯形成的油，所述甘油单酯、甘油二酯、甘油三酯例如辛酸甘油单酯、辛酸甘油二酯或辛酸甘油三酯，和癸酸甘油单酯、癸酸甘油二酯或癸酸甘油三酯、棕榈酸甘油单酯、棕榈酸甘油二脂和棕榈酸甘油三酯、亚油酸甘油单酯、亚油酸甘油二酯和亚油酸甘油三酯、硬脂酸甘油单酯、硬脂酸甘油二脂和硬脂酸甘油三酯、异硬脂酸甘油单酯、异硬脂酸甘油二酯和异硬脂酸甘油三酯、山嵛酸甘油单酯、山嵛酸甘油二酯和山嵛酸甘油三酯、油酸甘油单酯、油酸甘油二酯和油酸甘油三酯、肉豆蔻酸甘油单酯、肉豆蔻酸甘油二酯和肉豆蔻酸甘油三酯、亚麻酸甘油单酯、亚麻酸甘油二酯和亚麻酸甘油三酯；及其混合物；
‐非挥发性硅油，例如非挥发性聚二甲基硅氧烷(PDMS)；改性聚硅氧烷；胺化硅酮，或具有羟基的硅酮，或氟化硅酮；二甲聚硅氧烷；三甲聚硅氧烷；及其混合物。优选地，可以在本发明范围内使用的二甲聚硅氧烷可以以商标名(General ElectricCompany)、DOW CORNING(Dow Corning Corporation,DC200)、DOW CORNING获得，或者本领域技术人员已知的任何其他脂肪相。
所述组合物还可以包含用于调节皮肤的试剂。皮肤的调节剂的示例包括但不限于阴离子型、阳离子型、非离子型乳化剂，例如月桂基硫酸钠、磺基琥珀酸二辛酯钠、硬脂酸钠、山梨聚糖酯、乙氧基化脂肪酸、乙氧基化脂肪醇、十三烷醇聚醚-9和PEG-5己酸乙酯，以及本领域技术人员已知的任何乳化剂和调节剂。
对于具有醇-水或醇基的根据本发明的组合物，任何单醇的使用是合适的。
所述组合物可以进一步包含在室温(25℃)可与水混溶的多元醇，所述多元醇尤其选自特别地具有2至20个碳原子，优选具有2至10个碳原子，且优选具有2至6个碳原子的多元醇，例如甘油、乙二醇衍生物例如丙二醇、丁二醇、戊二醇、己二醇、二丙二醇、二甘醇；乙二醇醚例如单、二或三-丙二醇(C1-C4)烷基醚，单、二或三-乙二醇(C1-C4)烷基醚；及其混合物。
所述组合物可以进一步包含抗菌剂，例如选自可以包含一个或多个芳香取代基的醇的防腐剂或抗真菌剂，例如苯氧乙醇(如2-苯氧乙醇)、1-苯氧基-2-丙醇、苄基醇、2-羟基联苯、咪唑烷基脲、重氮烷基脲、羟甲基甘氨酸钠、卤化衍生物例如碘丙炔基丁基氨基甲酸酯、2-溴-2-硝基丙-1,3-二醇、2,4,4’-三氯-2’-羟基联苯醚(三氯生)、3,4,4’-三氯碳酰替苯胺(三氯卡班)、chlorbutanulum、2,4-二氯苄醇、N-4-氯苯基-N’-3,4-二氯苯基脲、1,2-二溴-2,4-二氰基丁烷、氯二甲苯酚、酮康唑、奥昔康唑、布康唑、克霉唑、益康唑、恩康唑、芬替康唑、咪康唑、硫康唑、噻康唑、氟康唑、伊曲康唑、特康唑、包含一个或多个阳离子氮原子的活性物质例如十六烷基三甲基氯化铵、氯化十六烷基吡啶、苄索氯铵、二异丁基乙氧基乙基-二甲基苄基氯化铵、二异丁基-苯氧基-乙氧基乙基-二甲基苄基氯化铵、N-烷基-N,N-二甲基苄基氯化铵、溴化糖精、三甲基氯化铵、氯羟基乙酸钠铝(aluminiumchlorohydroxylacétate de sodium)、三(十六烷基)甲基氯化铵、二氨基烷基酰胺、有机酸及其盐例如柠檬酸、不饱和抗菌剂例如法呢醇、特比萘芬或萘替芬、杂环芳香试剂例如联苯苄唑、氯康唑(cloconazole)、异康唑，以及本领域技术人员已知的任何其他抗细菌或抗真菌剂及其混合物。
所述组合物还可以包含增稠剂或改变流变性的试剂如，例如疏水改性的乙氧基化非离子型氨基甲酸乙酯、聚羧酸增稠剂例如丙烯酸酯/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物、卡波姆、丙烯酸酯共聚物和丙烯酸酯以及交联C10-C30烷基丙烯酸酯；及其混合物。
所述组合物还可以包含允许调节所述组合物的pH范围的酸和碱。所述碱可以为无机的(苏打、苛性钾、氨)或有机的例如单、二或三乙醇胺、氨甲基丙二醇、N-甲基-葡糖胺、碱性氨基酸如精氨酸和赖氨酸；及其混合物。
所述组合物可以进一步包含一种或多种其他成分，例如pH缓冲剂、维生素、芳香剂、以及本领域技术人员熟知的任何其他有用的化合物。
根据本发明的组合物可以被规定为软膏、喷雾剂、洗剂、凝胶、泡沫剂、分散剂、浆液(sérum)、面膜、身体乳或霜。
根据本发明的组合物可以用于美容学和皮肤病学中，用于预防或改善有皱纹的皮肤，并且提供保持皮肤的紧实度和湿度的可能性。
根据本发明的组合物可以用于皮肤病学或美容术学领域的局部制剂中，目的在于预防和/或减少皱纹，对抗无论是否是由光诱导的皮肤老化，重新激发表皮和真皮细胞的活性，紧致皮肤，增加其弹性，增加皮肤中维生素A的生理储备。
本发明还涉及根据本发明的组合物用于对抗皮肤老化，更特别地对抗光诱导的皮肤老化的化妆品用途。
本发明还涉及根据本发明的组合物用于增加皮肤中维生素A的生理储备的化妆品用途。
本发明还涉及一种用于对抗光诱导的皮肤老化的美容方法，其包括在皮肤上应用根据本发明的组合物。
本发明还涉及一种用于增加皮肤中维生素A的生理储备的美容方法，其包括在皮肤上应用根据本发明的组合物。
本发明还涉及根据本发明的组合物，其用作用于治疗与皮肤中维生素A生理储备的缺乏有关的皮肤病变的皮肤病学药物。
通过以下实施例以非限制性方式阐明本发明。
具体实施方式
实施例1
通过使用局部类视黄醇的预处理预防由UV幅射诱导的损耗(Tran等人,Photochem.Photobiol.73(4):425–431,2001)。
在无毛小鼠中进行该研究。以0.05％局部应用类视黄醇持续7天，然后提供UVB幅射(1J/cm2)。在幅射后24h测试表皮的类视黄醇。
结果示于图1，其具有标题：通过使用局部类视黄醇的预处理预防UV诱导的损耗。
通过用类视黄醇装载表皮，视黄醛和视黄醇预防光诱导的表皮视黄酯的损耗。因此，无需提供任何基质，仅通过诱导卵磷脂视黄醇酰基转移酶，视黄酸预防光诱导的类视黄醇损耗。
结论：在光诱导的类视黄醇损耗的这项研究中，视黄醛具有最佳的概况。
实施例2
角化细胞中类视黄醇诱导的视黄酯的调控。
在培养基中的角化细胞A431上进行该研究。事实上，在这些细胞中，没有测量到内源性类视黄醇。必须预先应用类视黄醇以测量细胞类视黄醇。通过HPLC测量类视黄醇。在培养基中，在溶解于1％乙醇中的各种试剂或试剂组合的存在下进行孵育，持续24至72h。
角化细胞中类视黄醇的生产示于下表中。这些是以pmol/mg蛋白质表示的平均值。
表1
OA：油酸；GG：双甘氨肽；OGG：双甘氨肽油酰胺；ROL-Pal：棕榈酸视黄酯；RAL：视黄醛。
该实验提供确立视黄醛诱导一系列视黄酯的可能性。双甘氨肽油酰胺显著增加了这些由视黄醛诱导的视黄酯，通过这种联系展现了真实的协同作用。棕榈酸视黄酯被吸收进入细胞中，然后被水解为视黄醇，之后所形成的视黄醇被部分酯化，最终产生比视黄醛少的细胞类视黄醇。
图2显示在孵育48h之后，由视黄醛和双甘氨肽油酰胺联合诱导的，对于调控角化细胞中诱导的视黄酯的协同作用。以用视黄醛处理的百分比表示值。
实施例3
视黄醛和双甘氨肽油酰胺和δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷的组合对用UVA照射的人真皮成纤维细胞的作用。
该研究的目的是在照射成纤维细胞之前，评价这三种活性物质的保护性质。
在正常的人真皮成纤维细胞上进行该研究，所述细胞被接种于12孔板中，并在培养基中培养24小时。
为了探求保护作用，用含有或不含(对照)待测试产品的混合物的基质替换培养基，并将细胞孵育24小时。在预孵育结束时，用不含化合物的照射基质(milieu d'irradiation)替换基质，然后用UVA(20J/cm2)照射细胞或不照射(未照射对照)。在照射结束时，用测试基质(milieu d'essai)替换基质，并将细胞孵育48小时。所有的实验条件进行n＝3次。在实验结束时，提取RNA并通过RT–PCR测量64个基因的表达。
混合物包含：
‐1μM的视黄醛
‐1μM的双甘氨肽油酰胺
‐10μM的δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷
UVA对人真皮成纤维细胞的照射明显抑制了许多参与细胞外基质组装的基因的表达，以及这种基质的某些组分的表达(图3)。平行地，在细胞周期的调节中，参与细胞外基质的降解的MMP1和MMP3标记物的明显的刺激被抑制。在64个经测试的基因中，25个受到UV的调节。这些结果是预料中的，并且提供了验证实验的可能性。
如图3所示，在三种活性物质的混合物的存在下，在13个基因中观察到实质性的保护作用，所述基因的表达被照射所改变。
出人意料地，这三种活性物质的混合物提供了观察基因中保护作用的可能性，所述基因涉及皮肤的弹性网状组织(如弹性蛋白、纤蛋白1(fibulin 1))，细胞和细胞外基质之间的相互作用(例如桩蛋白、多功能蛋白聚糖)，以及细胞核的保护(存活蛋白(survivin)、boréaline蛋白)。
图3提供了观察这三种活性物质的混合物恢复受到照射影响的基因的表达的可能性，也提供了揭示相比于对照条件4个基因的表达的增强的可能性(弹性蛋白、纤蛋白、赖氨酰氧化酶样蛋白2(lysyl oxidase-like 2)和巢蛋白1)。
因此，这三种活性物质的混合物不仅允许由照射所产生的改变的矫正，而且真皮的保护作用如此重要，尤其是对于涉及皮肤弹性的基因，在其中观察到皮肤弹性网状组织的真实重组，这三种活性物的混合物对于对抗皮肤老化是非常有效的。
实施例4
双甘氨肽油酰胺、视黄醛和δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷的组合对用UVA照射的人皮肤的弹性网状组织的作用。
在人皮肤外植体上进行该研究，所述外植体被接种于6孔板中，并在培养基中培养48小时。用UVA(12J/cm2)照射皮肤或不照射(未照射对照)。为了探求保护作用，将含有或不含(安慰剂对照)0.1％的双甘氨肽油酰胺、0.05％的视黄醛和0.05％的δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷的混合物的处方应用至皮肤的表面(10mg/cm2)直至照射结束。在孵育24小时之后，将相同量的保护处方再次应用至皮肤。将实验延长至24个小时，在实验结束时将皮肤冷冻并处理以通过免疫组织化学在共聚焦荧光显微镜下观察皮肤真皮的弹性网状组织。利用特异性抗体分析原纤蛋白和弹性蛋白的表达。
结果示于图4中，其涉及双甘氨肽油酰胺、视黄醛和δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷混合物的局部应用，保护皮肤对抗由UVA照射诱导的弹性纤维的改变。事实上，UVA对皮肤外植体的照射强烈破坏了真皮中原纤蛋白和弹性蛋白的表达，并引起有许多破损的弹性纤维网状组织的实质性解体。安慰剂对照没有保护皮肤，并表现出与经UVA照射的皮肤相似的弹性网状组织。另一方面，含有三种活性物质的配方允许受到UVA影响的弹性纤维结构的修复，以及皮肤弹性的保护。经照射并用活性物质的混合物处理的皮肤的弹性网状组织的结构与未经照射的对照皮肤的结构完全相同。
双甘氨肽油酰胺、视黄醛和δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷的组合提供了重组弹性皮肤组织的可能性，以及保护皮肤对抗由UVA产生的改变的可能性。因此，三种活性物质的混合物保护皮肤弹性，并有效地对抗皮肤的光老化。
整个结果证明了，视黄醛和双甘氨肽油酰胺的组合通过其协同效应将提供持续增加皮肤中维生素A的生理储备的可能性。视黄醛、双甘氨肽油酰胺和δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷的组合将提供通过在真皮对众多目标的协同作用有效地对抗皮肤老化的可能性。
实施例5：霜剂
Claims (5)
1.一种组合物在制备用于增加皮肤中维生素A的生理储备的化妆品中的用途，其中所述组合物包含视黄醛和双甘氨肽油酰胺，以及至少一种化妆品上可接受的载体；所述组合物含有基于组合物总重量，以重量计0.01至1％的视黄醛，和以重量计0.0001至20％的双甘氨肽油酰胺。
2.根据权利要求1所述的用途，其中，所述组合物进一步包含δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷。
3.根据权利要求2所述的用途，其中，所述组合物含有基于组合物总重量以重量计0.001至10％的δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷。
4.根据权利要求3所述的用途，其中，所述组合物含有基于组合物总重量0.01至0.1％的视黄醛、0.1％的双甘氨肽油酰胺和0.05至0.1％的δ-生育酚-吡喃葡萄糖苷。
5.根据权利要求1至4中任一项所述的用途，其中，所述载体以旨在用于局部应用的形式出现。
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| PCT/EP2014/061488 WO2014195315A1 (fr) | 2013-06-03 | 2014-06-03 | Compositions cosmetiques ou dermatologiques associant du retinaldehyde et de l'oleamide de glycylglycine, et leurs utilisations en cosmetique ou dermatologie |
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| JP (1) | JP2016521697A (zh) |
| KR (1) | KR20160016814A (zh) |
| CN (1) | CN105377228B (zh) |
| AU (1) | AU2014276967B2 (zh) |
| BR (1) | BR112015030032A2 (zh) |
| CA (1) | CA2913885C (zh) |
| ES (1) | ES2710531T3 (zh) |
| FR (1) | FR3006191B1 (zh) |
| HK (1) | HK1217655A1 (zh) |
| MX (1) | MX364092B (zh) |
| PL (1) | PL3003263T3 (zh) |
| PT (1) | PT3003263T (zh) |
| RU (1) | RU2660359C2 (zh) |
| TR (1) | TR201901511T4 (zh) |
| WO (1) | WO2014195315A1 (zh) |
Families Citing this family (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2019068096A1 (en) * | 2017-09-29 | 2019-04-04 | Rodan & Fields, Llc | COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING RETINALDEHYDE AND METHODS OF USE |
| CN111803396A (zh) * | 2020-06-30 | 2020-10-23 | 黑龙江省医院 | 一种基于视黄醛和双甘氨肽油酰胺的化妆品组合物及其制备方法 |
Citations (3)
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1251989A (zh) * | 1997-02-25 | 2000-05-03 | 密执安州立大学董事会 | 防护和处理人皮肤经时性衰老的方法和组合物 |
| EP1061897B1 (fr) * | 1998-03-20 | 2002-09-25 | Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique | Oleamide de glycylglycine en dermo-cosmetologie |
| US6569906B1 (en) * | 1998-03-10 | 2003-05-27 | Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique | Composition containing a precursor capable of being hydrolysed by glucocerebrosidase |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS5984994A (ja) | 1982-11-06 | 1984-05-16 | 川研ファインケミカル株式会社 | ジペプチド化合物を含む液体洗浄剤組成物 |
| US4732690A (en) | 1985-03-18 | 1988-03-22 | Phillips Petroleum Company | Oil recovery composition |
| FR2681784B1 (fr) * | 1991-10-01 | 1995-06-09 | Fabre Pierre Cosmetique | Composition dermatologique et/ou cosmetologique contenant des retinouides et utilisation de nouveaux retinouides. |
| JPH0824562A (ja) * | 1994-07-11 | 1996-01-30 | Nagatoshi Suzuki | 放電プラズマを用いた脱臭装置 |
| JPH08245362A (ja) * | 1995-03-08 | 1996-09-24 | Seikagaku Kogyo Co Ltd | 紫外線損傷防御用外用剤 |
| FR2749511B1 (fr) * | 1996-06-07 | 1998-08-28 | Roc Sa | Methode cosmetique de traitement et de prevention des signes du vieillissement de la peau |
| RU2193400C1 (ru) * | 2001-12-26 | 2002-11-27 | Мерзленко Ольга Валерьевна | Способ профилактики и лечения болезней, связанных с недостаточностью витамина а |
| AU2003219269A1 (en) * | 2002-02-08 | 2003-09-02 | Societe D'extraction Des Principes Actifs (Vincience Sa) | Use of a hsp inducing compound to limit secondary effects of retinoids |
| JP2008222689A (ja) * | 2007-03-16 | 2008-09-25 | Kose Corp | 化粧料 |
| FR2945442B1 (fr) * | 2009-05-14 | 2012-08-03 | Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique | Utilisation de delta-tocopheryl-glucide en tant qu'agent depigmentant. |
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2013
- 2013-06-03 FR FR1355036A patent/FR3006191B1/fr active Active
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2014
- 2014-06-03 TR TR2019/01511T patent/TR201901511T4/tr unknown
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- 2014-06-03 ES ES14727825T patent/ES2710531T3/es active Active
- 2014-06-03 CA CA2913885A patent/CA2913885C/fr active Active
- 2014-06-03 WO PCT/EP2014/061488 patent/WO2014195315A1/fr active Application Filing
- 2014-06-03 JP JP2016517272A patent/JP2016521697A/ja not_active Ceased
- 2014-06-03 KR KR1020157034065A patent/KR20160016814A/ko not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2014-06-03 MX MX2015016553A patent/MX364092B/es active IP Right Grant
- 2014-06-03 US US14/895,429 patent/US10213375B2/en active Active
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- 2014-06-03 EP EP14727825.3A patent/EP3003263B1/fr active Active
- 2014-06-03 AU AU2014276967A patent/AU2014276967B2/en not_active Ceased
- 2014-06-03 CN CN201480039488.7A patent/CN105377228B/zh active Active
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Patent Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1251989A (zh) * | 1997-02-25 | 2000-05-03 | 密执安州立大学董事会 | 防护和处理人皮肤经时性衰老的方法和组合物 |
| US6569906B1 (en) * | 1998-03-10 | 2003-05-27 | Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique | Composition containing a precursor capable of being hydrolysed by glucocerebrosidase |
| EP1061897B1 (fr) * | 1998-03-20 | 2002-09-25 | Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique | Oleamide de glycylglycine en dermo-cosmetologie |
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| Anti-aging properties of the association of "Retinaldehyde, Pretocopheryl glucopyranosyl, Glycylglycine oleamide";P Bogdanowicz等;《Journal of Investigative Dermatology》;20130531;第133卷(第2013增刊1期);第150页会议摘要879 * |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| EP3003263B1 (fr) | 2018-11-14 |
| PL3003263T3 (pl) | 2019-05-31 |
| CA2913885A1 (fr) | 2014-12-11 |
| US10213375B2 (en) | 2019-02-26 |
| EP3003263A1 (fr) | 2016-04-13 |
| CN105377228A (zh) | 2016-03-02 |
| ES2710531T3 (es) | 2019-04-25 |
| TR201901511T4 (tr) | 2019-02-21 |
| PT3003263T (pt) | 2019-02-21 |
| JP2016521697A (ja) | 2016-07-25 |
| MX2015016553A (es) | 2016-08-03 |
| BR112015030032A2 (pt) | 2017-07-25 |
| KR20160016814A (ko) | 2016-02-15 |
| CA2913885C (fr) | 2021-06-01 |
| AU2014276967A1 (en) | 2016-01-21 |
| FR3006191B1 (fr) | 2016-04-29 |
| WO2014195315A1 (fr) | 2014-12-11 |
| US20160206542A1 (en) | 2016-07-21 |
| HK1217655A1 (zh) | 2017-01-20 |
| FR3006191A1 (fr) | 2014-12-05 |
| RU2015152964A (ru) | 2017-07-14 |
| MX364092B (es) | 2019-04-12 |
| RU2660359C2 (ru) | 2018-07-05 |
| AU2014276967B2 (en) | 2019-07-11 |
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