CN103415282A - 油性固体化妆品 - Google Patents
油性固体化妆品 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN103415282A CN103415282A CN2012800121819A CN201280012181A CN103415282A CN 103415282 A CN103415282 A CN 103415282A CN 2012800121819 A CN2012800121819 A CN 2012800121819A CN 201280012181 A CN201280012181 A CN 201280012181A CN 103415282 A CN103415282 A CN 103415282A
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- Prior art keywords
- composition
- oil
- quality
- acid
- cosmetics
- Prior art date
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- Granted
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- 239000003349 gelling agent Substances 0.000 description 1
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- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000000227 grinding Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000005843 halogen group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N hentriacontane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- XJNUECKWDBNFJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecyl 2-ethylhexanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(CC)CCCC XJNUECKWDBNFJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- DWMMZQMXUWUJME-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecyl octanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCC DWMMZQMXUWUJME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GCWVKNVBIBZWAN-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexan-2-yl tetradecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)CCCC GCWVKNVBIBZWAN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000004051 hexyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
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- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
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- 125000000391 vinyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])=C([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/893—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
提供一种油性固体化妆品，其具有比以往的球状粉末所带来的毛孔遮盖效果更加优异的毛孔遮盖效果，并且容易实现适宜硬度的制剂化，不产生条状颜色不均，使用性优异。[解决方法]该油性固体化妆品含有：(a)固体油分(微晶蜡、固体石蜡等)2～10质量％、(b)有机改性粘土矿物2.5～8质量％、(c)特定的聚甘油改性硅酮(例如双丁基聚二甲基硅氧烷聚甘油-3等)0.3～8质量％、(d)阳离子表面活性剂0.1～2质量％和(e)碳原子数14～24的支链饱和脂肪酸0.2～7质量％。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及油性固体化妆品。进一步详细而言，涉及毛孔遮盖效果、分散性、使用性(柔软度、润滑度)优异的油性固体化妆品。
背景技术
在粉底、妆前底霜(base makeup)(底妆)化妆品等中，要求有使细纹、毛孔等变得不显眼的修补效果。这样的毛孔遮盖化妆品以往通常是配合球状粉末而通过粉末的扩散效果来遮盖毛孔(例如参照专利文献1～4)。特别是折射率高的二氧化硅等还具有在上妆后呈现哑光感的效果，从而被经常使用，但其毛孔遮盖效果有限。因此，要求比这些球状粉末更优秀的毛孔遮盖效果。
需要说明的是，专利文献5～7中虽然针对本发明的(b)成分分散于油分中而得到的分散体有所记载，但这些文献中，没有记载和暗示本申请发明的化妆品中使用的与其他配合成分的组合。
现有技术文献
专利文献
专利文献1：日本特开平11-349442号公报
专利文献2：日本特开2002-241226号公报
专利文献3：日本特开2007-39372号公报
专利文献4：日本特表2008-544961号公报
专利文献5：日本特开2008-63330号公报
专利文献6：日本特开2008-63331号公报
专利文献7：日本特开2009-40720号公报
发明内容
发明要解决的问题
本发明是鉴于上述以往的情况而完成的，其目的在于，提供一种油性固体化妆品，其具有比以往的球状粉末所带来的毛孔遮盖效果更加优异的毛孔遮盖效果，并且容易实现适宜硬度的制剂化，不产生条状颜色不均，使用性(柔软度、润滑度)优异。
用于解决问题的方案
为了解决上述课题，本发明提供一种油性固体化妆品，其含有：(a)固体油分2～10质量％、(b)有机改性粘土矿物2.5～8质量％、(c)下述式(I)所示的聚甘油改性硅酮0.3～8质量％、(d)阳离子表面活性剂0.1～2质量％和(e)碳原子数14～24的支链饱和脂肪酸0.2～7质量％。
[式(I)中，R1表示碳原子数1～12的直链或支链的烷基、或者苯基；R2表示碳原子数2～11的亚烷基；p为10～120的数；q为1～11的数。]
另外，本发明提供上述油性固体化妆品，其中，(b)成分为用季铵盐型阳离子表面活性剂将水溶胀性粘土矿物处理而得到的阳离子改性粘土矿物。
发明的效果
根据本发明，能够提供一种油性固体化妆品，其具有比以往的球状粉末所带来的毛孔遮盖效果更加优异的毛孔遮盖效果，并且容易实现适宜硬度的制剂化，不产生条状颜色不均，使用性(柔软度、润滑度)优异。
具体实施方式
以下，对本发明进行详细描述。
[(a)成分]
作为(a)成分即固体油分，只要是通常化妆品中使用的在常温下呈固体～半固体态的油分，就没有特别的限定，适合使用熔点约为50℃以上的物质。具体而言，可列举出例如：固体石蜡、聚乙烯蜡、乙烯丙烯共聚物、微晶蜡、纯地蜡、地蜡或费-托蜡等烃系蜡；另外其他的：木蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、小烛树腊、米糠蜡、蜂蜡(beeswax)、米糠蜡、凡士林、固化霍霍巴油、固化牛脂、胆固醇、植物甾醇以及它们的衍生物等。其中，从防止制剂的“发汗”(由于温度变化等导致的蜡晶体的收缩、膨胀而使制剂中的油分成分在化妆品表面经时地以油滴的方式溢出)、防止收缩等观点出发，优选微晶蜡、固体石蜡等烃系蜡。(a)成分可以使用一种或两种以上。
(a)成分的配合量在本发明的化妆品总量中为2～10质量％，优选为3～7质量％。小于2质量％时，化妆品难以制成固体形状，另一方面，超过10质量％时，化妆品变得过硬，难以用手从容器中取出。
[(b)成分]
作为(b)成分即有机改性粘土矿物，可列举出：用有机极性化合物、有机阳离子将夹在于粘土矿物(例如：蒙脱石、皂石、锂蒙脱石、膨润土等)的晶体层间的交换性阳离子置换而得到的物质等。本发明中，适合使用用季铵盐型阳离子表面活性剂将水溶胀性粘土矿物处理而得到的阳离子改性粘土矿物。
此处，作为上述水溶胀性粘土矿物，可列举出例如：属于蒙脱石(smectite)属的层状硅酸盐矿物的、通常为下述式(II)所表示的具有三层结构的胶体性含水硅酸铝等粘土矿物作为优选例。
(X,Y)2-3(Si,Al)4O10(OH)2Z1/3·nH2O (II)
[式(II)中，X表示Al、Fe(III)、Mn(III)或Cr(III)；Y表示Mg、Fe(II)、Ni、Zn、Li或Mn(II)；Z表示K、Na、1/2Ca或1/2Mg。]。
处理上述水溶胀性粘土矿物的季铵盐型阳离子表面活性剂为下述式(III)所表示的化合物。
[式(III)中，R3表示碳原子数为10～22的烷基或苄基；R4表示甲基或碳原子数为10～22的烷基；R5和R6分别独立地表示碳原子数为1～3的烷基或羟基烷基；X表示卤原子或甲基硫酸酯残基。]。具体而言，可以举出：十二烷基三甲基氯化铵、肉豆蔻基三甲基氯化铵、鲸蜡基三甲基氯化铵、硬脂基三甲基氯化铵、山嵛基三甲基氯化铵、肉豆蔻基二甲基乙基氯化铵、鲸蜡基二甲基乙基氯化铵、硬脂基二甲基乙基氯化铵、山嵛基二甲基乙基氯化铵、肉豆蔻基二乙基甲基氯化铵、鲸蜡基二乙基甲基氯化铵、硬脂基二乙基甲基氯化铵、山嵛基二乙基甲基氯化铵、苄基二甲基肉豆蔻基氯化铵、苄基二甲基鲸蜡基氯化铵、苄基二甲基硬脂基氯化铵、苄基二甲基山嵛基氯化铵、苄基甲基乙基鲸蜡基氯化铵、苄基甲基乙基硬脂基氯化铵、二硬脂基二甲基氯化铵、二山嵛基二羟基乙基氯化铵和代替上述各化合物的氯化物而作为溴化物的物质等，还有二棕榈基丙基乙基甲基硫酸铵等。
作为用季铵盐型阳离子表面活性剂将上述水溶胀性粘土矿物处理而得到阳离子改性粘土矿物的方法，例如：可以通过在水、丙酮或者低级醇等低沸点溶剂中，将上述的水溶胀性粘土矿物和季铵盐型阳离子表面活性剂进行分散搅拌处理并去除低沸点溶剂而得到。另外，可以将水溶胀性粘土矿物和季铵盐型阳离子表面活性剂配合并在配方中使其有机改性，由此得到的物质也能够适宜使用。需要说明的是，根据需要，也可以组合使用季铵盐型阳离子表面活性剂和非离子性表面活性剂。
作为用季铵盐型阳离子表面活性剂将水溶胀性粘土矿物处理而得到的阳离子改性粘土矿物，可列举出二甲基二硬脂基铵锂蒙脱石(=季铵盐-18锂蒙脱石)、二甲基二硬脂基铵膨润土(=季铵盐-18膨润土)、二(十八烷基)二甲铵蒙脱石、十八烷基二甲基苄基铵蒙脱石、二(十六烷基)二甲铵蒙脱石等。它们作为例如“Bentone38VCG”(=季铵盐-18锂蒙脱石)、“Bentone34”(=季铵盐-18膨润土)(均为Elementis Specialties(英国)公司制造)、“Claytone40”、“Claytone SO”(均为Southern Clay公司制造)等被市售，可以通过商业渠道而获得。(b)成分可使用一种或两种以上。
(b)成分优选使用分散于油分中的形式的分散体。所述分散体可以使用现有技术文献的专利文献5中记载的物质。另外，制造方法也可以通过专利文献5中记载的制造方法而进行。
即，有机改性粘土矿物具有平均厚度2μm以上的层状结构，通常形成聚集体，因此难以以该层状结构的状态直接分散于油分中。因此，在油分中，通过机械剪切力和/或冲击力将有机改性粘土矿物进行剥离处理，从而薄片化，制成具有平均厚度为0.1μm以下且平均长径为0.5～50μm左右的板状颗粒结构的有机改性粘土矿物颗粒。由此，有机改性粘土矿物的各板状颗粒在油分中实质上不聚集而进行分散。
具体而言，可以通过如下的处理方法，得到通常为低粘度且具有流动性的分散体。即，向市售的有机改性粘土矿物(通常为具有平均厚度2μm以上的层状结构的聚集体)和油分的混合物中，等体积加入直径1mm左右的玻璃珠(或氧化锆珠等)，使用油漆搅拌器、珠磨机等施加机械剪切力和/或冲击力，从而薄片化。所得到的分散体在硅油等油相中不会再次聚集，能够维持良好的分散状态。
作为分散有机改性粘土矿物的油分，没有特别的限定，优选整体在常温下为液态的油分，特别优选使用硅油。作为硅油，可列举出例如：二甲基聚硅氧烷、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷等链状聚硅氧烷；八甲基环四硅氧烷、十甲基环五硅氧烷、十二甲基环六硅氧烷等环状聚硅氧烷；除此之外，只要没有特别的问题，也可以使用形成三维网状结构的硅酮树脂、硅橡胶的各种聚硅氧烷(氨基改性聚硅氧烷、烷基改性聚硅氧烷、氟改性聚硅氧烷等)等。从有机改性粘土矿物的分散性的观点出发，就分散体中的有机改性粘土矿物的分散量(配合量)而言，有机改性粘土矿物在分散体用油分中优选为0.25～30质量％左右。与直接使用有机改性粘土矿物的情况相比，通过使用该有机改性粘土矿物在油分中的分散体，能够提高有机改性粘土矿物在化妆品中的实际成分配合量，由此，能够更加有效地发挥毛孔遮盖效果，并且在使用性这方面，能够更加有效地起到由于更优异的增稠效果所带来的如生巧克力样的柔软且润滑的使用感。
(b)成分的配合量(实际成分)在本发明的化妆品总量中为2.5～8质量％，优选为3～7质量％。小于2.5质量％时，难以起到配合(b)成分所带来的效果(例如：柔软度、润滑度等)；另一方面，超过8质量％时，化妆品变得过硬，难以填充至容器中。
[(c)成分]
(c)成分为下述式(I)所示的直链型的聚甘油改性硅酮(=两末端硅酮化聚甘油)。
式(I)中，R1表示碳原子数1～12的直链或支链的烷基、或者苯基；R2表示碳原子数2～11的亚烷基；p为10～120的数；q为1～11的数。
对于上述式(I)所示的共聚物的制造，例如：向聚甘油二烯丙醚与单末端氢化二甲基聚硅氧烷的混合液中加入氯化铂酸异丙醇溶液，将其加热进行反应，向其中添加盐酸水溶液，过热水解后，加入碳酸氢钠水溶液中和，然后纯化并进行蒸发而得到。但是，并非限定于该制造方法。作为(c)成分，可列举出例如：双丁基聚二甲基硅氧烷聚甘油-3等。
(c)成分的配合量在本发明化妆品总量中为0.3～8质量％，优选为0.5～6质量％。小于0.3质量％时，填充至容器时即便将化妆品成分加热熔融，流动性也较低，因而难以填充；另一方面，超过8质量％时，化妆品变得容易产生条状颜色不均、粘腻。
[(d)成分]
作为(d)的阳离子表面活性剂，只要是通常化妆品中能够使用的物质，就没有特别的限制，可例示出例如：硬脂基三甲基氯化铵、十六烷基三甲基氯化铵、十四烷基三甲基氯化铵、月桂基三甲基氯化铵等烷基三甲基铵盐；二硬脂基二甲基氯化铵等二烷基二甲基铵盐；氯化聚(N,N’-二甲基-3,5-亚甲基哌啶鎓)、氯化鲸蜡基吡啶鎓等烷基吡啶嗡盐；烷基季铵盐；烷基二甲基苄基铵盐；烷基异喹啉鎓盐、二烷基吗啉鎓盐、聚氧亚乙基(以下，POE)烷基胺；烷基胺盐；多胺脂肪酸衍生物；戊醇脂肪酸衍生物；苯扎氯铵；苄索氯铵等。但是，并不限定于这些例示。(d)成分可以使用一种或两种以上。
(d)成分的配合量在本发明化妆品总量中为0.1～2质量％，优选为0.1～1.5质量％。小于0.1质量％时，填充至容器时即便将化妆品成分加热熔融，流动性也较低，因而难以填充；另一方面，超过2质量％时，化妆品的延展不顺利，使用性变差。
[(e)成分]
(e)成分为碳原子数14～24、优选为16～22的支链饱和脂肪酸。具体而言，可列举出：异肉豆蔻酸、异十五烷酸、异棕榈酸、异硬脂酸、异花生酸、异山嵛酸等。优选为异硬脂酸。(e)成分可以使用一种或两种以上。
本发明中，使用直链饱和脂肪酸、支链不饱和脂肪酸来代替(e)成分时，粘度保持较高，化妆品变硬，变得难以填充至容器。
(e)成分的配合量在本发明化妆品总量中为0.2～7质量％，优选为0.5～5质量％。小于0.2质量％时，填充至容器时即便将化妆品成分加热熔融，流动性也较低，因而难以填充；另一方面，超过7质量％时，化妆品变得容易产生条状颜色不均、粘腻。
本发明中，从防止条状颜色不均的观点出发，更优选以(d)成分:(e)成分=1:15～3:5(质量比)的配合比进行配合。
本发明化妆品为将上述(a)～(e)成分作为必需成分的固体制剂。以往难以高浓度配合(b)成分，在希望高浓度配合时，存在膏体基剂容易产生油浮等缺点。本发明中，通过将剂型制成固态、组合使用(c)～(e)成分这三种成分作为分散剂，能够解决这些缺点，并且能够更加提高(b)成分带来的毛孔遮盖效果。另外，通过(b)成分的增稠效果，能够起到柔软且润滑的使用感。此外，在以油中分散体的方式使用(b)成分时，能够更有效地抑制制剂硬度变得过高，因此也起到在使用时容易将化妆品从容器中取到手上且容易涂布的效果。
本发明中，除了上述必需成分以外，还可以配合(f)粉末成分。通过配合(f)成分，能够进一步提高毛孔遮盖效果。作为粉末成分，只要是通常在化妆品中能够配合的物质就没有特别的限定，可列举出例如：球状二氧化硅、球状聚乙烯、聚酰胺球状树脂粉末(尼龙球状粉末)、交联型聚(甲基)丙烯酸甲酯球状树脂粉末等球状粉末；滑石、云母、高岭土、绢云母、碳酸钙、碳酸镁等体质颜料；聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、(聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物、聚甲基倍半硅氧烷等高分子硅酮系粉末；聚乙烯、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯、金属皂等。但是，并不限定于这些例示。(f)成分可以使用一种或两种以上，粉末的表面可以处理也可以不处理。
在配合(f)成分的情况下，从毛孔遮盖效果、使用性等观点出发，其配合量在本发明化妆品总量中优选为10～30质量％，更优选为20～30质量％。
需要说明的是，本发明的固体油性化妆品由于生成蜡的晶体而固化，因此理想的是不配合引起蜡的晶体生成障碍的成分。作为这样的成分，可列举出：油胶凝剂(例如：糊精系的油性高分子(“Rheopearl KL”；Chiba FlourMilling Co.,Ltd.制造)等)等。
本发明中，为了抑制“浮粉(powdering)”现象，也可以进一步配合(g)酯油。“浮粉”是指化妆品涂布后挥发性的油分(硅油等)挥发而粉以白状地浮出的现象。特别是在多量配合球状粉末的情况下，挥发性油分挥发时，粉末表面的折射率上升，皮肤与粉末表面的折射率之差变大，从而可见白状地浮出。通过配合(g)成分，能够有效地抑制浮粉现象。
作为酯油，可例示出例如：肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、辛酸鲸蜡酯、肉豆蔻酸辛基十二烷基酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、硬脂酸丁酯、月桂酸己酯、肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯、油酸癸酯、二甲基辛酸己基癸酯、乳酸鲸蜡酯、乳酸肉豆蔻酯、醋酸羊毛脂、硬脂酸异鲸蜡酯、异硬脂酸异鲸蜡酯、12-羟基硬脂酸胆甾醇酯、二-2-乙基己酸乙二醇酯、二季戊四醇脂肪酸酯、单异硬脂酸-N-烷基二醇酯、二癸酸新戊二醇酯、苹果酸二异硬脂基酯、二-2-庚基十一烷酸甘油酯、三羟甲基丙烷三-2-乙基己酸酯、三羟甲基丙烷三异硬脂酸酯、四-2-乙基己酸季戊四醇酯、三-2-乙基己酸甘油酯、三辛酸甘油酯、三异棕榈酸甘油酯、三羟甲基丙烷三异硬脂酸酯、鲸蜡基2-乙基己酸酯、2-乙基己基棕榈酸酯、三肉豆蔻酸甘油酯、三-2-庚基十一烷酸甘油酯、蓖麻油脂肪酸甲酯、油酸油酯、乙酰甘油酯、棕榈酸2-庚基十一烷基酯、己二酸二异丁酯、N-月桂酰基-L-谷氨酸-2-辛基十二烷基酯、己二酸二-2-庚基十一烷基酯、月桂酸乙酯、癸二酸二-2-乙基己酯、肉豆蔻酸2-己基癸酯、棕榈酸2-己基癸酯、己二酸2-己基癸酯、癸二酸二异丙酯、琥珀酸2-乙基己酯、柠檬酸三乙酯等。其中，特别优选肉豆蔻酸异丙酯。在配合脂油的情况下，其配合量在本发明化妆品中优选为0.1～5质量％左右、更优选为0.5～5质量％、特别优选为1～3质量％。
另外，本发明中，为了涂布化妆品后减轻摩擦等带来的化妆品的脱妆，也可以进一步配合(h)油溶性高分子。作为油溶性高分子，可例示出：三甲基甲硅烷氧基硅酸、烷基改性硅酮、聚酰胺改性硅酮、高聚合二甲基硅氧烷·甲基(氨基丙基)硅氧烷共聚物、(丙烯酸酯/甲基丙烯酸聚三甲基甲硅氧基)共聚物等。它们是皮膜剂成分。其中，特别优选三甲基甲硅烷氧基硅酸。在配合油溶性高分子的情况下，在本发明化妆品中优选为0.1～4质量％左右、更优选为0.5～3质量％、特别优选为1～2质量％左右。
本发明的化妆品中除了上述成分之外，只要不损害本发明的目的和效果，则可根据需要适当配合通常化妆品中使用的其它成分。作为这样的成分，可列举出：乳化剂、醇类、液体油脂、硅油、液态烃油、高级醇、油溶性药剂、油溶性紫外线吸收剂。但是，并不限定于这些例示。
作为乳化剂，可例示出：POE·甲基聚硅氧烷共聚物、硅酮链支链型POE·甲基聚硅氧烷共聚物、交联型POE·甲基聚硅氧烷共聚物、烷基·POE共改性甲基聚硅氧烷共聚物、硅酮链支链型烷基·POE共改性甲基聚硅氧烷共聚物、甘油脂肪酸酯、聚甘油脂肪酸酯、聚氧亚乙基甘油脂肪酸酯、山梨糖醇酐脂肪酸酯、聚氧亚乙基山梨糖醇酐脂肪酸酯、含有长链烷基的聚氧亚烷基改性有机聚硅氧烷、聚氧亚烷基改性有机聚硅氧烷等。本发明中，优选使用含有长链烷基的聚氧亚烷基改性有机聚硅氧烷(ABIL EM90TM；Goldschmidt-thermit Japan Co.,Ltd.制造)、聚氧亚烷基改性有机聚硅氧烷(KF6017、KF6026；信越化学工业株式会社制造)等的HLB6以下的硅酮系乳化剂。
作为醇类，可例示出：乙醇、异丙醇等低级醇，异硬脂醇、辛基十二烷醇、己基癸醇等高级醇等。
作为液体油脂，可列举出例如：鳄梨油、山茶油、海龟油、澳洲坚果油、玉米油、貂油、橄榄油、菜籽油、蛋黄油、芝麻油、桃仁油、小麦胚芽油、山茶花油、蓖麻油、亚麻籽油、红花油、棉籽油、紫苏子油、大豆油、花生油、茶籽油、椰子油、米糠油、泡桐油、日本桐油、霍霍巴油、胚芽油、三甘油等。
作为硅油，可例示出：二甲基聚硅氧烷、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷、甲基氢聚硅氧烷等链状聚硅氧烷；十甲基聚硅氧烷、十二甲基聚硅氧烷、四甲基四氢聚硅氧烷等环状聚硅氧烷；形成三维网状结构的硅酮树脂、硅橡胶等。
作为液态烃油，可例示出液体石蜡等。
作为高级醇，可例示出：月桂醇、肉豆蔻醇、鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇、山嵛醇、花生醇、鲨肝醇、鲛肝醇、巴西棕榈醇、蜡醇、二十八烷醇(koryanyl alcohol)、蜂花醇(myricyl alcohol)、虫蜡醇(lacceryl alcohol)、反油醇(elaidyl alcohol)、异硬脂酰基甘油醚、辛醇、三十烷醇(triacontyl alcohol)、鲨油醇、十六十八烷醇(cetostearyl alcohol)、油醇、羊毛脂醇、氢化羊毛脂醇、己基癸醇、辛基癸醇等。
作为油溶性药剂，可列举出：油溶性的美白剂、保湿剂、抗炎症剂、抗菌剂、激素剂、维生素类、各种氨基酸及其衍生物、酶、抗氧化剂、生发剂等药剂成分。具体而言，可列举出：维生素A(=视黄醇)及其衍生物(例如：视黄醇乙酸酯、视黄醇棕榈酸酯等)、维生素B2衍生物(例如：核黄素醋酸酯等)、维生素B6衍生物(例如：吡哆醇二辛酸酯、吡哆醇二棕榈酸酯、吡哆醇二月桂酸酯等)、维生素D(=钙化醇)及其衍生物(例如：麦角钙化醇、胆钙化醇等)、维生素E(=生育酚)及其衍生物[例如：维生素E乙酸酯(=生育酚乙酸酯)等]、必需脂肪酸[例如：亚油酸、亚麻酸、花生四烯酸、二十碳五烯酸、二十二碳六烯酸及含有它们的植物提取物(例如：柏子仁等)等]、辅酶(=辅酶Q10)及其衍生物、维生素K类(例如：叶绿醌、维生素K2(menaquinone)、甲萘醌等)、间苯二酚衍生物(例如：4-烷基间苯二酚衍生物和/或其盐等)、甘草亭酸及其衍生物(例如：甘草亭酸硬脂醇酯等)、油溶性的维生素C衍生物[例如：维生素C二棕榈酸酯(=二棕榈酸抗坏血酸酯)、硬脂酸抗坏血酸酯等]、甾族化合物(例如：女性激素、男性激素等)、烟酸苄酯(生发剂成分)、三氯均二苯脲(杀菌剂成分)、三氯羟基二苯基醚(防腐剂成分)、γ-谷维素(抗氧化剂成分)、二丁基羟基甲苯(抗氧化剂成分)等。
作为油溶性紫外线吸收剂，可列举出例如：对氨基苯甲酸(PABA)、PABA单甘油酯、N,N-二丙氧基PABA乙酯、N,N-二乙氧基PABA乙酯、N,N-二甲基PABA乙酯、N,N-二甲基PABA丁酯、二乙基氨基羟基苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯等苯甲酸系紫外线吸收剂；三甲基环己基(homomenthyl)-N-乙酰基邻氨基苯甲酸酯等邻氨基苯甲酸系紫外线吸收剂；水杨酸戊酯、水杨酸薄荷酯、水杨酸三甲基环己酯、水杨酸辛酯、水杨酸苯基酯、水杨酸苄基酯、对异丙醇苯基水杨酸酯等水杨酸系紫外线吸收剂；肉桂酸辛酯、乙基-4-异丙基肉桂酸酯、甲基-2,5-二异丙基肉桂酸酯、乙基-2,4-二异丙基肉桂酸酯、甲基-2,4-二异丙基肉桂酸酯、丙基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯、异丙基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯、异戊基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯、辛基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯[=2-乙基己基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯]、2-乙氧基乙基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯、环己基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯、乙基-α-氰基-β-苯基肉桂酸酯、2-乙基己基-α-氰基-β-苯基肉桂酸酯、甘油单-2-乙基己酰基-二对甲氧基肉桂酸酯、3,4,5-三甲氧基肉桂酸3-甲基-4-[甲基双(三甲基硅氧基)甲硅烷基]丁酯等肉桂酸系紫外线吸收剂；2-苯基-5-甲基苯并噁唑、2,2’-羟基-5-甲基苯基苯并三唑、2-(2’-羟基-5’-叔辛基苯基)苯并三唑、2-(2’-羟基-5’-甲基苯基)苯并三唑、二苄连氮(dibenzalazine)、二茴香酰基甲烷、4-叔丁基-4’-甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷、4-(1,1-二甲基乙基)-4’-甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷、5-(3,3-二甲基-2-亚降冰片烯基)-3-戊烷-2-酮、奥克立林[=2-氰基-3,3-二苯基-2-丙烯酸-2-乙基己酯]、聚硅氧烷-15[=Dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate]等。
本发明化妆品为油性固体化妆品，尤其适合用作粉底、妆前底霜(底妆)化妆品。
实施例
以下列举实施例，进一步具体说明本发明，但本发明并不受这些实施例的任何限定。在没有特别指出的情况下，配合量均为实际成分(质量％)。
[毛孔遮盖效果]
由女性评委(10名)将各试样涂布于脸部，对于其毛孔遮盖效果根据下述评价标准进行评价。
(评价标准)
A：8名以上认为毛孔的遮盖效果优异
B：5～7名认为毛孔的遮盖效果优异
C：3～4名认为毛孔的遮盖效果优异
D：2名以下认为毛孔的遮盖效果优异
[向容器填充的适合性]
将各试样填充于容器，对于其填充适合性，通过目视按照下述评价标准进行评价。
(评价标准)
A+：向容器内填充后的试样表面为凹面(为了不使内容物掉落，设置面积高的凹面的形状也是理想的)
A：向容器内填充后的试样表面为水平
B：向容器内填充后的试样表面为略有凸起的程度(在工业生产线的允许范围内)
C：向容器内填充后的试样表面凸起
D：向容器内填充后的试样表面凸起，并且呈膏体状有棱角
[条状颜色不均(分散性)]
将各试样填充至广口的平坦树脂容器中，评价冷却凝固后的表面的条状颜色不均。
(评价标准)
A：完全见不到条状颜色不均
B：几乎见不到条状颜色不均
C：只见到很少的条状颜色不均
D：可见到条状颜色不均
[使用性(柔软度、润滑度)]
由女性评委(10名)根据下述评价标准评价各试样涂布于脸部时的试样的柔软度、润滑度。
(评价标准)
A：8名以上认为柔软度、润滑度优异
B：5～7名认为柔软度、润滑度优异
C：3～4名认为柔软度、润滑度优异
D：2名以下认为柔软度、润滑度优异
1.对于各粉末成分的毛孔遮盖效果评价
通过常规方法制备下述表1所示的试样1～8。使用制备的试样，根据上述评价方法，对于各粉末的毛孔遮盖效果进行评价。结果示于表1。
[表1]
由表1的结果可明确地确认到，使用了本发明的(b)成分的试样7，与使用了以往的粉末的情况相比，毛孔遮盖效果优异。
2.实施例1～18、比较例1～14
通过常规的方法制备下述表2～4所示的各试样。使用制备的试样，根据上述评价方法，对于各粉末的毛孔遮盖效果、填充适合性、条状颜色不均、使用性进行评价。结果示于表2～4。
需要说明的是，表2～4中，“二甲基硬脂基铵锂蒙脱石的分散体”是指以10质量％的比例将二甲基硬脂基铵锂蒙脱石配合到十甲基环五聚硅氧烷中，向其中等体积加入直径1mm左右的玻璃珠(或者氧化锆珠)，使用油漆搅拌器(浅田铁工株式会社)、珠磨机(DISPERMAT、VMA-GETZMAN GMBHVerfarenstechnik)等施加机械剪切力和/或冲击，从而薄片化。有机改性粘土矿物颗粒的平均厚度为0.1μm以下、平均长径为0.5～50μm。该分散体的表中配合量以分散体(总量)的配合量表示，实际成分量用括号内数值表示。[表2]
[表3]
[表4]
由表2～4的结果可知，以规定范围的配合量含有(a)～(e)成分的实施例1～18的试样，均能够得到毛孔遮盖效果、填充适合性、条状颜色不均、使用性(柔软度、润滑度优异的效果。另一方面，缺少(a)～(e)成分中的任意成分、或者以超出本发明范围的配合量配合而得到的比较例1～14的试样，均无法完全具备本发明的所有效果。
3.实施例19～27、实施例13
通过常规的方法制备下述表5所示的各试样。使用制备的试样，根据上述评价方法，对于各粉末的毛孔遮盖效果、填充适合性、条状颜色不均、使用性进行评价。对于组合添加(g)成分带来的“无浮粉感”的效果，根据下述评价标准进行评价。结果示于表5。
[无浮粉感]
由女性评委(10名)将各试样涂布于脸上，对于其无浮粉感，按照下述评价标准进行评价。
(评价标准)
A：8名以上认为无浮粉感优异
B：5～7名认为无浮粉感优异
C：3～4名认为无浮粉感优异
D：2名以下认为无浮粉感优异。
[表5]
由表5所示的结果可知，以本发明配合量的范围而含有(a)～(e)成分的实施例19～27、13的试样，均能够得到毛孔遮盖效果、填充适合性、条状颜色不均、使用性(柔软度、润滑度)优异的效果。除了(a)～(e)成分之外还配合(g)成分的实施例19～21、26～17、13的试样，在上述效果的基础上，进一步能够得到“无浮粉感”的效果。
4.实施例13、实施例28～29
通过常规方法制备下述表6所示的各试样。使用制备的试样，根据上述评价方法，对于各粉末的毛孔遮盖效果、填充适合性、条状颜色不均、使用性进行评价。对于组合添加(h)成分带来的“无脱妆感”的效果，根据下述评价标准进行评价。结果示于表5。
[无脱妆感]
由女性评委(10名)将各试样涂布于脸上，对于其无脱妆感，根据下述评价标准进行评价。
(评价标准)
A：8名以上认为无脱妆感优异
B：5～7名认为无脱妆感优异
C：3～4名认为无脱妆感优异
D：2名以下认为无脱妆感优异。
[表6]
由表6所示的结果可知，以本发明配合量的范围而含有(a)～(e)成分，并且进一步添加了(h)成分的实施例13、28～29的试样，除了毛孔遮盖效果、填充适合性、条状颜色不均、使用性(柔软度、润滑度)的效果之外，均进一步能够得到“无脱妆感”的效果。
产业上的可利用性
本发明的油性固体化妆品具有比以往的球状粉末所带来的毛孔遮盖效果更加优异的毛孔遮盖效果，并且容易实现适宜硬度的制剂化，不产生条状颜色不均，使用性(柔软度、润滑度)也优异。
Claims (7)
1.一种油性固体化妆品，其含有：(a)固体油分2～10质量％、(b)有机改性粘土矿物2.5～8质量％、(c)下述式(I)所示的聚甘油改性硅酮0.3～8质量％、(d)阳离子表面活性剂0.1～2质量％和(e)碳原子数14～24的支链饱和脂肪酸0.2～7质量％，
式(I)中，R1表示碳原子数1～12的直链或支链的烷基、或者苯基；R2表示碳原子数2～11的亚烷基；p为10～120的数；q为1～11的数。
2.根据权利要求1所述的油性固体化妆品，其中，(b)成分为用季铵盐型阳离子表面活性剂将水溶胀性粘土矿物处理而得到的阳离子改性粘土矿物。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的油性固体化妆品，其中，(b)成分为分散于油分中的呈分散体的物质。
4.根据权利要求1所述的油性固体化妆品，其中，(d)成分：(e)成分=1：15～3：5(质量比)。
5.根据权利要求1所述的油性固体化妆品，其中，进一步含有(f)粉末成分。
6.根据权利要求1所述的油性固体化妆品，其中，进一步含有(g)酯油。
7.根据权利要求1所述的油性固体化妆品，其中，进一步含有(h)油溶性高分子。
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| JP2011050892 | 2011-03-08 | ||
| JP2011-050892 | 2011-03-08 | ||
| PCT/JP2012/055883 WO2012121309A1 (ja) | 2011-03-08 | 2012-03-07 | 油性固形化粧料 |
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| CN103415282B CN103415282B (zh) | 2015-03-18 |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN108066161A (zh) * | 2016-11-11 | 2018-05-25 | 韩国科玛株式会社 | 棒型化妆品组合物的制造方法 |
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| JP6334184B2 (ja) * | 2014-01-31 | 2018-05-30 | 株式会社コーセー | 油性固形化粧料 |
| US11931435B2 (en) * | 2016-04-28 | 2024-03-19 | Shiseido Company, Ltd. | Water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic |
| CN112533534B (zh) | 2018-08-21 | 2024-07-16 | 宝洁公司 | 用于识别毛孔颜色的方法 |
| JP7411537B2 (ja) | 2020-01-22 | 2024-01-11 | 信越化学工業株式会社 | 生体電極組成物、生体電極、及び生体電極の製造方法 |
| EP4147199A1 (en) | 2020-05-08 | 2023-03-15 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Methods for identifying dendritic pores |
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| JP2012197270A (ja) | 2012-10-18 |
| CN103415282B (zh) | 2015-03-18 |
| TW201249475A (en) | 2012-12-16 |
| JP5038538B1 (ja) | 2012-10-03 |
| TWI466685B (zh) | 2015-01-01 |
| HK1188732A1 (zh) | 2014-05-16 |
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