CN102869649A - N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺类和相关化合物的化妆品应用 - Google Patents
N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺类和相关化合物的化妆品应用 Download PDFInfo
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- CN102869649A CN102869649A CN2011800203918A CN201180020391A CN102869649A CN 102869649 A CN102869649 A CN 102869649A CN 2011800203918 A CN2011800203918 A CN 2011800203918A CN 201180020391 A CN201180020391 A CN 201180020391A CN 102869649 A CN102869649 A CN 102869649A
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- skin
- alkyl
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- makeup
- sulfonyloxy
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Abstract
本发明公开了包含N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺类的化妆品组合物和使用这样的组合物赋予皮肤抗衰老有益性的方法。认为N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺类对牵连皮肤衰老的一种或多种生化途径具有调节活性。
Description
相关申请的交叉参考
本国际申请要求2010年6月30日提交的待审美国专利申请顺序号US12/826,864的优先权，将该文献完整地引入本文参考。
技术领域
本发明一般性地涉及局部施用于皮肤的包含N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺类化合物的组合物和这样的组合物在改善皮肤美观中的应用。
背景技术
胶原蛋白是身体的主要结构蛋白且由一起盘绕成紧密的三链螺旋的三条蛋白质链组成。这种独特的结构使得胶原蛋白拉伸强度大于钢。身体中约33%的蛋白质是胶原蛋白。这种蛋白质支持组织和器官且将这些结构与骨连接。实际上，骨质也由合并了一些矿物质例如钙和磷的胶原蛋白组成。胶原蛋白在提供围绕细胞的结构支架方面起关键作用，它有助于支持细胞形状和分化，与钢杆如何加强水泥块类似。网状胶原蛋白的网状构造与细胞彼此结合且提供支撑构架或环境，使细胞在其中发育和起作用且使组织和骨愈合。
胶原蛋白由成纤维细胞产生，这种细胞是位于真皮内的专用皮肤细胞。成纤维细胞还产生其他皮肤结构蛋白，例如弹性蛋白(使得皮肤自身很快恢复其能力的蛋白质)和葡糖胺聚糖类(GAGs)。GAGs构成保持真皮水化的基质。为了信号传导或开启皮肤结构蛋白产生，成纤维细胞在其外膜上具有特殊形状的受体，所述的外膜作为具有匹配形状的信号分子可以与之相配的结合位点起作用。当所述的受体被信号分子(称作成纤维细胞生长因子或FGFs)的正确组合结合时，成纤维细胞开始产生胶原蛋白。刺激胶原蛋白提供了皮肤自身的强度、耐久性和平滑度、丰满的外观。
本发明由此提供了刺激胶原蛋白产生的新组合物和方法。本发明的另一个目的在于改善皮肤的总体外观，包括处理、逆转和/或预防衰老体征，例如皮肤皱纹，通过使用包含有效量的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺类的化妆品组合物刺激胶原蛋白产生来进行。
提供上述讨论仅是为了提供本领域所面临的问题性质的更好理解，而不应以任何方式被视为允许作为现有技术，也不应将本文引述的任何参考文献视为允许这种参考文献构成针对本申请的“现有技术”。
发明内容
根据上述目的和其他目的，已经令人意外地发现，N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺类是胶原蛋白产生的有效刺激剂且由此是针对皮肤内在衰老和光老化的各种体征的有益活性剂。
在本发明的一个方面中，提供了用于改善人体皮肤美观的方法，包含对有此需要的皮肤区域局部施用有效量的在化妆品可接受的赋形剂中的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺或其化妆品可接受的盐。
在本发明的另一个方面中，提供了用于改善皮肤美观的化妆品组合物，包含在化妆品可接受的赋形剂对中的有效量的具有式I结构的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺：
其中W1、W2独立地是CO、CO2、CONH、SO2或PO3；
R1、R2和R3独立地是C1-20烃类，其各自独立地选自烷基、环烷基、卤代烷基、烷氧基烷基、杂烷基、芳基、芳基烷基、烷基芳基、杂芳基烷基和烷基杂芳基，并且各自任选被C和/或1-6个选自卤素、O、N、S的杂原子取代，且S任选被氧化；
X、Y各自独立地表示H或任选取代的烷基、卤代烷基、烷氧基、氨基、氨基烷基、卤代烷氧基、烯基，且其中相邻X、Y可以一起形成5、6或7元环；
R1、R2和R3还可以任选被例如氨基、氨基烷基、烷氧基、卤代烷氧基、卤代烷基、烷基、烯基、炔基、环烷基、芳基等取代。
且其中-O-W2-R1基团与苯环在2-、3-或4-位上连接。
还提供了处理一种或多种皮肤衰老体征的方法，包括对有此需要的皮肤局部施用有效促进胶原蛋白用量的式I的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺。
在本发明的另一个方面中，提供了处理、改善和/或预防人体皮肤细线或皱纹或下垂的方法，包括对有此需要的皮肤局部施用一种组合物，包括将其直接施用于皱纹或细线，该组合物包含有效促进胶原蛋白用量的式I的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺。
通过参照如下详细描述和附图将会更好地理解本发明的这些和其他方面。
详细描述
除非另有提供，否则本文所用的全部术语欲以具有其通常的含义。
本发明提供了用于局部施用的组合物，其包含有效量的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺类或相关化合物，以处理、逆转、改善和/或预防皮肤衰老体征。这种皮肤衰老体征包括、但不限于如下：
(a)处理、减少和/或预防细线或皱纹；
(b)皮肤孔径减小；
(c)皮肤厚度、丰满度和/或紧固度改善；
(d)皮肤柔韧度和/或柔软性改善；
(e)皮肤色泽、光泽度和/或澄明度改善；
(f)前胶原蛋白和/或胶原蛋白产生改善；
(g)弹性蛋白维持和重塑改善；
(h)皮肤纹理改善和/或促进重织构化；
(i)皮肤屏障修复和/或功能改善；
(j)皮肤轮廓外观改善；
(k)皮肤光泽和/或光亮度恢复；
(l)补充皮肤中的必需营养物和/或成分；
(m)衰老和/或绝经导致的皮肤外观下降；
(n)皮肤保湿性改善；
(o)皮肤弹性和/或回弹力增加；
(p)处理、减少和/或预防皮肤下垂；和/或
(q)色素斑减少。
实际上，将本发明的组合物施用于有处理需要的皮肤。即具有任意上述特质、或者能从任意上述皮肤特质的改善获益的皮肤。
在一些实施方案中，本发明的组合物和方法涉及预防、处理和/或改善皮肤上的细线和/或皱纹。在这种情况中，将所述组合物施用于需要处理的皮肤，其含义是具有皱纹和/或细线的皮肤。优选将所述组合物直接施用于细线和/或皱纹。适合于处理皮肤任意表面上的细线和/或皱纹的组合物和方法包括、但不限于面部、颈部和/或手部皮肤。
用于处理与胶原蛋白和/或弹性蛋白纤维缺失相关的皮肤状况的化妆品组合物包含在化妆品可接受的赋形剂中的有效促进胶原蛋白的用量的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺类。这些胶原蛋白促进剂可以具有式(I)的结构：
在式(I)中，W1和W2独立地是CO、CO2、CONH、SO2或PO3；R1、R2和R3独立地是烷基、环烷基、卤代烷基、烷氧基烷基、芳基烷基或杂烷基，其各自可以任选被C和/或1-6个选自卤素、O、N、S的杂原子取代，其中S任选被氧化；X、Y各自独立地表示H或是任选取代的烷基、卤代烷基、烷氧基、氨基、氨基烷基、卤代烷氧基、烯基，其中相邻X、Y可以一起形成5、6或7元环。
在一个实施方案中，W1和W2是SO2；X和Y是H；R1、R2各自表示C1-C8烷基，优选C1-C4烷基，R3是脂族烷基、C1-C8取代或未取代的环烷基或芳族烃基，以C6芳族烃基为典型，其可以是取代或未取代的芳基(例如苯基)。在其他实施方案中，R1、R2、R3独立地表示低级烷基(例如甲基、乙基、丙基、丁基等)，典型地为甲基或乙基。在其他实施方案中，R1、R2在每次出现时独立地表示脂族C1-C8烃基；包括脂族C1-C6烃基、脂族C1-C8烃基或脂族C1-C6烃基，以取代或未取代的支链、直链或环状烷基、烯基(例如乙烯基、烯丙基等)和炔基基团为典型；C6-C20芳族烃基，包括C6-C12芳族烃基、C6-C10芳族烃基或C6芳族烃基，以取代或未取代的芳基(例如苯基)、烷基-芳基(例如苄基)、芳基-烷基等为典型；或C1-C20杂芳基，其在环上包括一个或多个选自O、N和S的杂原子；包括C1-C12杂芳族基团、C1-C8杂芳族基团和C1-C6杂芳族基团，以杂芳基、烷基-杂芳基、杂芳基-烷基等为典型。
R1、R2和R3还可以各自任选被例如氨基、氨基烷基、烷氧基、卤代烷氧基、卤代烷基、卤素、氨基、氨基烷基、烷氧基、卤代烷氧基、卤代烷基、烷基、烯基、炔基、环烷基、芳基等取代。
在一些实施方案中，W1是CONH，W2是SO2，X和Y是H，R1是C1-C8烷基，R2是C1-C8烷基或芳烷基，R3是烷基、环烷基、芳基烷基或杂烷基。
在其他实施方案中，W1表示羰基-(C=O)-，W2是SO2，X和Y是H，R1是C1-C8烷基，R2是C1-C8烷基或芳基烷基，R3是烷基、环烷基、芳基烷基或杂烷基。
此外，任意的氮原子可以任选被氧化成N-氧化物或可以被例如被低级烷基卤化物季铵化，例如甲基、乙基、丙基和丁基的氯化物、溴化物和碘化物；二烷基硫酸盐，如二甲基、二乙基、二丁基和二戊基的硫酸盐；长链卤化物，例如癸基、月桂基、肉豆蔻基和硬脂酰基的氯化物、溴化物和碘化物；芳烷基卤例如苄基和苯乙基溴化物等。
在式(I)的一个实施方案中，W1和W2是SO2，如式(Ia)所示。
其中X和Y是H，R1是烷基，R2是异丁基，R3是苯基。
在另一个实施方案中，W1是SO2，W2是基团-CONH-，X和Y是H，R1是烷基，R2是烷基，R3是取代的苯基，如式(Ib)中所示：
其中-OSO2R1基团位于苯环上的3-或4-位上。优选R是甲基，R2是异丁基，R3是2-乙基苯基。
在另一个实施方案中，W1是羰基(-CO-)，W2是SO2，X和Y是H，R1是烷基，R2是烷基，R3是烷基或取代的苯基，如式(Ic)中所示：
其中R1优选是甲基，R2是烷基或烷氧基，R3是取代的苯基。
在一个具体的实施方案中，化妆品组合物包含在化妆品可接受的赋形剂中、优选在油包水型乳剂或水包油型乳剂中的约0.0001%－约90%重量的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺，其具有如下结构：
或其化妆品可接受的盐。
在另一个具体的实施方案中，化妆品组合物包含在化妆品可接受的赋形剂中、优选在油包水型乳剂或水包油型乳剂中的约0.0001%－约90%重量的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺，其具有如下结构：
或其化妆品可接受的盐。
本发明包括化妆品或药学可接受的(例如无毒性和/或无刺激性)盐的应用。本发明中化合物的盐包括与碱金属（例如钠和钾）形成的盐；与碱土金属（例如钙和镁）形成的盐；与胺类形成的盐，例如一乙醇胺；与无机酸（例如盐酸和硫酸）形成的盐；和与有机酸（例如柠檬酸和乙酸）形成的盐。特别举出的是由盐酸盐组成。
可以将本发明的化妆品组合物配制成用于局部施用的各种形式且包含约0.00001%－约90%重量的一种或多种式(I)的化合物，且优选包含约0.001%－约25%重量，且更优选约0.001%－约1%重量。所述的组合物包含有效量的式(I)的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺化合物，其含义是当局部施用于其上时足以促进指定皮肤区域中胶原蛋白的用量。
可以将组合物配制成各种产品形式，例如洗剂、霜剂、浆液、喷雾剂、气雾剂、粉饼、软膏剂、精油、凝胶、糊剂、贴剂、色笔、小毛巾、面膜、棒状物、泡沫、酏剂、浓缩物等，它们特别适用于局部施用。优选将组合物配制成洗剂、霜剂、软膏剂或凝胶。
组合物可以包括化妆品可接受的赋形剂。这种赋形剂可以采用本领域任意已知适合于施用于皮肤的形式，且可以包括、但不限于水；植物油；矿物油；酯类，例如棕榈酸辛酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯和棕榈酸异丙酯；醚类，例如二辛基醚和二甲基异山梨醇酯；醇类，例如乙醇和异丙醇；脂肪醇类，例如鲸蜡醇、鲸蜡硬脂醇、十八烷醇和联苯醇；异链烷烃，例如异辛烷、异十二烷和异十六烷；硅油类，例如环甲硅油、二甲硅油、二甲硅油交联聚合物、聚硅氧烷及其衍生物，优选有机修饰的衍生物；烃油，例如矿物油、凡士林油、异二十烷和聚异丁烯；多元醇类，例如丙二醇、甘油、丁二醇、戊二醇和己二醇；蜡，例如蜂蜡和植物蜡；或上述物质的任意组合或混合物。
赋形剂可以包含水相、油相、醇、硅氧烷相或其混合物。化妆品可接受的赋形剂还可以包含乳剂。适合的乳剂的非限制性实例包括油包水型乳剂、水包油型乳剂、水包硅氧烷型乳剂、硅氧烷包水型乳剂、水包蜡型乳剂、水-油-水三重乳剂等，它们具有霜剂、凝胶或微乳的外观。乳剂可以包括乳化剂，例如非离子型或阴离子型或两性表面活性剂。
乳剂的油相优选具有一种或多种有机化合物，包括软化剂；保湿剂(例如丙二醇和甘油)；其他水可分散或水溶性成分，包括增稠剂，例如硅酸镁铝或羟基烷基纤维素；胶凝剂，例如高MW聚丙烯酸，即CARBOPOL 934；及其混合物。乳剂可以具有一种或多种能够乳化组合物中存在的各种成分的乳化剂。
适用于油相的化合物包括、但不限于：植物油；酯类，例如棕榈酸辛酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯和棕榈酸异丙酯；醚类，例如二辛基醚；脂肪醇类，例如鲸蜡醇、十八烷醇和山萮醇；异链烷烃，例如异辛烷、异十二烷和异十六烷；硅油类，例如二甲硅油，环硅氧烷和聚硅氧烷；烃油，例如矿物油、凡士林油、异二十烷和聚异丁烯；天然或合成蜡等。适合的疏水性烃油可以是饱和或不饱和的、具有脂族特性并且是直链或支链的或包含脂环族或芳族环。包含油的相可以由单一的油或不同油的混合物组成。
烃油包括具有6-20个碳原子的那些，更优选10-16个碳原子。有代表性的烃类包括癸烷、十二烷、十四烷、十三烷和C8-20异链烷烃。链烷烃类购自Exxon ISOPARS商标下和Permethyl Corporation。此外，C8-20链烷烃类例如Permethyl Corporation生产的具有商品名Permethyl 99ATM的C12异链烷烃(异十二烷)也关注为适合的。各种商购C16异链烷烃例如异十六烷(具有商品名Permethyl RTM)也是适合的。优选的挥发性烃类的实例包括聚癸烷，例如异十二烷和异癸烷，包括，例如Permethyl-99A(Presperse Inc.)和C7-C8至C12-C15异链烷烃，例如购自Exxon Chemicals的Isopar Series。有代表性的烃溶剂是异十二烷。
油相可以包含一种或多种蜡，包括，例如米糠蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、小冠椰子蜡、小烛树蜡、褐煤蜡、甘蔗蜡、地蜡、聚乙烯蜡、费托蜡、蜂蜡、微晶蜡、硅氧烷蜡、氟化蜡及其任意的组合。
非限制性乳化剂包括乳化蜡、乳化多元醇类、聚醚多元醇类、聚醚类、多元醇的一-或二酯、乙二醇单硬脂酸酯类、甘油单硬脂酸酯类、甘油二硬脂酸酯类、包含硅氧烷的乳化剂、大豆甾醇类、脂肪醇类例如鲸蜡醇、脂肪酸例如硬脂酸、脂肪酸盐及其混合物。优选的乳化剂包括大豆甾醇、鲸蜡醇、硬脂酸、乳化蜡及其混合物。可以用于本发明组合物中的其他具体乳化剂包括、但不限于一种或多种如下成分：脱水山梨糖醇酯类；聚甘油基-3-二异硬脂酸酯；脱水山梨糖醇单硬脂酸酯,脱水山梨糖醇三硬脂酸酯、脱水山梨糖醇倍半油酸酯、脱水山梨糖醇单油酸酯；甘油酯类，例如单硬脂酸甘油酯和甘油单油酸酯；聚氧乙烯苯酚类，例如聚氧乙烯辛基苯酚和聚氧乙烯壬基酚；聚氧乙烯醚类，例如聚氧乙烯鲸蜡基醚和聚氧乙烯硬脂酰醚；聚氧化乙二醇酯类；聚氧乙烯脱水山梨糖醇酯类；二甲硅油共聚醇类；聚甘油基酯类，例如聚甘油基-3-二异硬脂酸酯；月桂酸甘油酯；硬脂醇聚醚(steareth)-2、硬脂醇聚醚-10和硬脂醇聚醚-20等。其他乳化剂提供在INCI Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook第11版2006中，将其公开内容引入本文参考。
这些乳化剂典型地以约0.001%－约10%重量的量存在于组合物中，特别是约0.01%－约5%重量，更优选低于1%重量。
油相可以包含一种或多种挥发性和/或不挥发性硅油。挥发性硅氧烷包括环状和线性挥发性二甲基硅氧烷的硅氧烷类。在一个实施方案中，挥发性硅氧烷可以包括环二甲硅油(cyclodimethicones)，包括四聚体(D4)、五聚体(D5)和六聚体(D6)环甲硅油或其混合物。特别举出的是由挥发性环甲硅油-六甲基环三硅氧烷、八甲基-环四硅氧烷和十甲基-环戊硅氧烷构成。适合的二甲硅油购自Dow Corning，商品名为Dow Corning
Fluid，并且具有0.65－600,000厘沲或以上的粘度。适合的非极性挥发性液体硅油公开在美国专利US 4,781,917中，将其公开内容完整地引入本文参考。另外的挥发性硅氧烷材料描述在Todd等人“Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics”,Cosmeticsand Toiletries,91:27-32(1976)中，将其公开内容完整地引入本文参考。线性挥发性硅氧烷在25°C一般具有小于约5厘沲的粘度，而环硅氧烷在25°C具有小于约10厘沲的浓度。不同粘度的挥发性硅氧烷实例包括Dow Corning 200、Dow Corning 244、Dow Corning 245、Dow Corning 344和Dow Corning 345(Dow Corning Corp.)；SF-1204和SF-1202 Silicone Fluids(G.E.Silicones)、GE 7207和7158(General Electric Co.)；和SWS-03314(SWS Silicones Corp.)。线性挥发性硅氧烷包括低分子量聚二甲基硅氧烷化合物，例如六甲基二硅氧烷、八甲基三硅氧烷、十甲基四硅氧烷和十二甲基戊硅氧烷等。
不挥发性硅油类典型地包含聚烷基硅氧烷、聚芳基硅氧烷、聚烷基芳基硅氧烷或其混合物。聚二甲基硅氧烷是优选的不挥发性硅油类。不挥发性硅油类典型地在25℃具有约10－约60,000厘沲的粘度，优选约10－约10,000厘沲，更优选约10－约500厘沲；并且在大气压下具有大于250℃的沸点。非限制性实例包括二甲基聚硅氧烷(二甲硅油)、苯基三甲基聚硅氧烷和二苯基二甲硅油。挥发性和不挥发性硅油类可以任选被不同的官能团取代，例如烷基、芳基、胺基、乙烯基、羟基、卤代烷基、烷基芳基和丙烯酸酯基等。
可以用非离子型表面活性剂(乳化剂)乳化硅氧烷包水型乳剂，例如聚二有机硅氧烷-聚氧化烯嵌段共聚物，包括美国专利US4,122,029中公开的那些，将该文献的公开内容引入本文参考。这些乳化剂典型地包含聚二有机硅氧烷主链，典型地聚二甲基硅氧烷，其具有包含-(EO)m-和/或-(PO)n-基团的侧链，其中EO是乙烯氧基，PO是1,2-丙烯氧基侧链，所述的侧链典型地被氢或低级烷基(例如C1-6，典型地C1-3)封端或终止。其他适合的硅氧烷包水型乳化剂公开在美国专利US6,685,952中，将该文献的公开内容引入本文参考。商购硅氧烷包水型乳化剂包括购自如下的那些：Dow Corning，商品名为3225C和5225C FORMULATION AID；购自General Electric的SILICONESF-1528；购自Goldschmidt Chemical Corporation(Hopewell,VA)的ABIL EM90和EM 97；和由OSI Specialties(Danbury,CT)销售的SILWET系列乳化剂。
硅氧烷包水型乳剂的实例包括、但不限于二甲硅油PEG 10/15交联聚合物、二甲硅油共聚醇、鲸蜡基二甲硅油共聚醇、PEG-15月桂基二甲硅油交联聚合物、月桂基聚甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、环甲硅油和二甲硅油共聚醇、二甲硅油共聚醇(和)辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯类、聚甘油基-4异硬脂酸酯(和)鲸蜡基二甲硅油共聚醇(和)月桂酸己酯和二甲硅油共聚醇(和)环戊硅氧烷。优选的硅氧烷包水型乳化剂的实例包括、但不限于PEG/PPG-18/18二甲硅油(商品名5225C,Dow Corning),PEG/PPG-19/19二甲硅油(商品名BY25-337,Dow Corning)、鲸蜡基PEG/PPG-10/1二甲硅油(商品名Abil EM-90,Goldschmidt ChemicalCorporation)、PEG-12二甲硅油(商品名SF 1288,GeneralElectric)、月桂基PEG/PPG-18/18聚甲基硅氧烷(商品名5200FORMULATION AID,Dow Corning)、PEG-12二甲硅油交联聚合物(商品名9010和9011硅氧烷弹性体掺合物,Dow Corning)、PEG-10二甲硅油交联聚合物(商品名KSG-20,Shin-Etsu)和二甲硅油PEG-10/15交联聚合物(商品名KSG-210,Shin-Etsu)。
组合物中硅氧烷包水型乳化剂典型地占总重的约0.001%－约10%重量，特别是约0.01%－约5%重量，更优选低于1%重量。
乳剂的水相可以包括一种或多种另外的溶剂，包括低级醇类，例如乙醇、异丙醇等。挥发性溶剂还可以是化妆品可接受的酯，例如乙酸丁酯或乙酸乙酯；酮类，例如丙酮或乙基甲基酮等。
包含油的相典型地占乳剂总重的约10%－约99%、优选约20%－约85%、更优选约30%－约70%重量，水相典型地占乳剂总重的约1%－约90%、优选约5%－约70%、更优选约20%－约60%。水相典型地包含约25%－约100%、更典型地约50%－约95%重量的水。
组合物可以包括脂质体。脂质体可以包含其他添加剂或物质和/或可以被修饰以更特定地达到或保持在施用后的部位上。
另外，组合物可以合并包囊和/或微囊化技术。正如本领域众所周知的，可以选择包囊材料，在接触湿度、pH改变、温度改变、溶解度改变或机械剪切或破裂时释放该组合物。适合的包囊材料和包囊材料的制备方法例如喷雾干燥、挤出、凝聚、流化床涂敷、脂质体包载等公开在如下文献中，例如Shi的美国专利申请公开号US2005/0000531；Uhlmann等人的"Flavor encapsulation technologies:an overviewincluding recent developments"Perfumer and Flavorist,27,52-61,2002；和Robert E.Sparks和Irwin Jacobs在Controlled-Release Delivery Systems for Pesticides中的"Selection of Coating and Microencapsulation Processes",Herbert B.Scher ed.,Marcel Dekker,New York,N.Y.,1999,pp.3-29，将这些文献的内容引入本文参考。
引入包囊和/或微囊化技术的组合物可以形成纳米颗粒。本文所用的术语"纳米颗粒"是指具有约1纳米－约999纳米直径的纳米大小的颗粒；本文所用的术语"纳米颗粒"是指纳米大小的颗粒、纳米簇、簇、颗粒、小颗粒和纳米结构的材料。
组合物可以任选包含其他本领域技术人员显而易见的化妆品活性成分和赋形剂，包括、但不限于填充剂、乳化剂、抗氧化剂、表面活性剂、成膜剂、螯合剂、胶凝剂、增稠剂、软化剂、保湿剂、增湿剂、维生素、矿物、粘度调节剂和/或流变调节剂、防晒剂、角质层分离剂、脱色剂、维生素a酸类、激素化合物、α-羟基酸、α-酮酸、抗分支杆菌药、抗真菌药、抗微生物药、抗病毒药、镇痛药、脂类化合物、抗过敏反应药、H1或H2抗组胺药、抗炎药、抗刺激剂、抗肿瘤药、免疫系统增强剂、免疫系统抑制剂、抗痤疮药、麻醉剂、抗菌药、驱虫药、皮肤清凉化合物、皮肤防护剂、皮肤渗透促进剂、去角质剂、润滑剂、香料、着色剂、脱色剂、色素减少剂、防腐剂、稳定剂、药物活性剂、光稳定剂、防晒剂及其混合物。除上述物质外，本发明的化妆品组合物还可以包含任意其他用于处理皮肤障碍的化合物。
着色剂可以包括，例如有机和无机色素和珠光剂。适合的无机色素包括、但不限于氧化钛、氧化锆和氧化铈和氧化锌、氧化铁、氧化铬和铁蓝。适合的有机色素包括钡、锶、钙和铝色淀和碳黑。适合的珠光剂包括涂敷氧化钛、氧化铁或天然色素的云母。
可以加入不同的填充剂和另外的成分。填充剂通常占组合物总重量的约0重量%－约20重量%，优选约0.1重量%－约10重量%。适合的填充剂包括、但不限于二氧化硅、处理的二氧化硅、滑石粉、硬脂酸锌、云母、高岭土、尼龙粉例如OrgasolTM、聚乙烯粉末、TeflonTM、淀粉、氮化硼、共聚物微球例如ExpancelTM(Nobel Industries)、PolytrapTM(Dow Corning)和硅氧烷树脂微珠(来自Toshiba的TospearlTM)等。
在本发明的一个实施方案中，组合物可以包括另外的皮肤活性成分，例如、但不限于植物药、角质溶解药、去角质剂、角化细胞增殖促进剂、胶原酶抑制剂、弹性酶抑制剂、脱色剂、抗炎药、类固醇、抗痤疮药、抗氧化剂、水杨酸或水杨酸酯类、硫二丙酸或及其酯类和高级糖化终产物(AGE)抑制剂。
在一个具体的实施方案中，组合物可以包含至少一种另外的植物药，例如植物提取物、精油或植物自身。适合的植物药包括、但不限于来自如下植物的提取物：印度冷杉、儿茶、芦荟、苞魔芋、宽叶榆绿木、紫萁（Asmunda japonica）、印度苦楝树、紫矿树、紫矿、雪松、黄春菊、余甘子、孟加拉榕树、甘草、葎草（Humiluss candens）、冬青、总状土木香（Innula racemosa）、川穹（Ligusticumchiangxiong）、女贞子（Ligusticum lucidum）、粗糠柴、蜜茱萸（Melicope hayesil）、牛油果、海巴戟（Morinda citrifolia）、辣木（Moringa oleifera）、补血草、夹竹桃、蒌叶（Piper betel）、雾水葛（Pouzolzia petandra）、补骨脂、灵枝草、无患子（Sapindusrarek）、大花田菁、乌蕨、毗黎勒（Terminalia bellerica）、蕃茄糖脂（tomato glycolipid）及其混合物。
组合物具有包含可以抗衰老有益性的另外的活性成分，因为关注可以使用这种组合得到的协同改善。典型的抗衰老成分包括、但不限于植物药(例如紫矿树提取物)；植醇、硫二丙酸(TDPA)及其酯类；维生素a酸类(例如全反式维甲酸、9-顺式维生素A酸、植烷酸等)；羟基酸(包括α-羟基酸和β-羟基酸)、水杨酸和水杨酸酯；去角质剂(例如乙醇酸、3,6,9-三氧杂十一烷二酸等)、雌激素合成酶刺激化合物(例如咖啡因和衍生物)；能够抑制5α还原酶活性的化合物(例如亚麻酸、亚油酸、非那雄胺及其混合物)；屏障功能强化剂(例如神经酰胺类、甘油酯类、胆固醇及其酯类、α-羟基和ω-羟基脂肪酸及其酯类等)；胶原酶抑制剂；和弹性酶抑制剂等。
典型的维生素a酸类包括、但不限于维a酸(例如全反式或13-顺式)及其衍生物、视黄醇(维生素A)及其酯类，例如棕榈酸维生素A、醋酸维生素A和丙酸维生素A及其盐。
在另一个实施方案中，本发明的局部组合物还可以包括一种或多种如下物质：皮肤渗透促进剂、软化剂、皮肤丰满剂、光扩散剂、防晒剂、去角质剂和抗氧化剂。
软化剂提供了促进皮肤平滑性和减少细线和粗皱纹外观的功能有益性。实例包括肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、凡士林油、羊毛脂酸异丙酯、硅氧烷类(例如聚甲基硅氧烷、二甲硅油)、油、矿物油、脂肪酸酯类或其任意的混合物。软化剂可以优选占组合物总重的约0.1wt%－约50wt%。
皮肤丰满剂用作皮肤胶原蛋白促进剂。适合和优选的皮肤丰满剂的实例是棕榈酰寡肽。其他皮肤丰满剂是胶原蛋白和/或其他糖胺聚糖类(GAG)促进剂。如果存在，则皮肤丰满剂可以占组合物总重的约0.1wt%－约20wt%。
光扩散剂是改变皮肤表面视觉量度(optometrics)、从而导致例如细线和皱纹的视觉模糊和软化的颗粒。可以用于本发明的光扩散剂的实例包括、但不限于氮化硼、云母、尼龙、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯(PMMA)、聚氨基甲酸酯粉末、绢云母、二氧化硅、硅氧烷粉末、滑石粉、特氟隆、二氧化钛、氧化锌或其任意的混合物。如果存在，则光扩散剂可以占组合物总重的约0.01wt%－约20wt%。
还可以包括用于防止皮肤受到紫外线损伤的防晒剂。优选的防晒剂是广泛UVB和UVA防护的那些，例如氰双苯丙烯酸辛酯、阿伏苯宗(Parsol 1789)、甲氧肉桂酸辛酯、水杨酸辛酯、羟苯甲酮、homosylate、二苯酮、樟脑衍生物、氧化锌和二氧化钛。如果存在，则防晒剂可以占组合物的约0.01wt%－约70wt%。
适合的去角质剂包括，例如α-羟基酸、β-羟基酸、含氧酸、含氧二酸及其衍生物，例如其酯类、酸酐类和盐。适合的羟基酸包括，例如乙醇酸、乳酸、苹果酸、酒石酸、柠檬酸、2-羟基烷酸、扁桃酸、水杨酸及其衍生物。优选的去角质剂是乙醇酸。如果存在，则去角质剂可以占组合物的约0.1wt%－约80wt%。
抗氧化剂起从皮肤中清除自由基的作用等，以防止皮肤受到环境侵害。可以用于本发明组合物的抗氧化剂的实例包括具有酚羟基官能团的化合物，例如抗坏血酸及其衍生物/酯类；β胡萝卜素；儿茶素；姜黄素；阿魏酸衍生物(例如阿魏酸乙酯、阿魏酸钠)；没食子酸衍生物(例如没食子酸丙酯)；番茄红素；还原酸；迷迭香酸；鞣酸；四氢姜黄素；生育酚及其衍生物；尿酸；或其任意的混合物。其他适合的抗氧化剂是具有一个或多个硫氢基官能团(-SH)的那些，为还原或非还原形式，例如谷胱甘肽、硫辛酸、巯基乙酸和其他巯基化合物。抗氧化剂可以是无机酸，例如亚硫酸氢盐、偏亚硫酸氢盐、亚硫酸盐或其他无机酸和含硫的酸。本发明的组合物可以包含优选占组合物总重约0.001wt%－约10wt%且更优选约0.01wt%－约5wt%的抗氧化剂。
其他常用添加剂包括：维生素，例如生育酚和抗坏血酸；维生素衍生物，例如抗坏血酸单棕榈酸酯；增稠剂，例如羟基烷基纤维素；胶凝剂；结构化试剂，例如膨润土、蒙脱石、硅酸镁铝和硅酸镁锂；金属螯合剂，例如EDTA；色素，例如氧化锌和二氧化钛；着色剂；软化剂；和保湿剂。
优选组合物基本上不含具有强氧化潜能的成分，包括，例如有机或无机过氧化物。所谓“基本上不含”这些成分的含义是不足以对N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺的胶原蛋白促进活性具有可测定的影响存在的量。在一些实施方案中，基于相对于N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺的摩尔量，其低于1%。
在一个实施方案中，包含N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺的本发明组合物可以具有约1－约8的pH。在一些实施方案中，组合物的pH为酸性，即小于7.0，优选约2－约7，更优选约3.5－约5.5。
本发明提供了用于处理衰老皮肤的方法，通过将包含N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺（优选在化妆品可接受的赋形剂中）的组合物局部施用于受侵害区域足以减少、改善、逆转或预防衰老皮肤体征的时间期限来进行。该方法特别用于处理皮肤光老化和内在老化的体征。
一般而言，状况和/或美观的改善选自：减少实足年龄老化、光老化、激素性老化和/或光化性老化的皮肤病体征；预防和/或减少细线和/或皱纹外观；减小面线和皱纹、面颊、前额上的面部皱纹、眼之间的垂直皱纹、眼上方的水平皱纹、口腔周围的皱纹、木偶线且特别是深度皱纹或皱褶的显著性；预防、减小和/或缩小细线和/或皱纹外观和/或深度；改善眼眶下细线和/或眼周围细线外观；减轻鱼尾纹外观；恢复和/或复活皮肤、特别是衰老皮肤；减轻皮肤脆性；预防和/或逆转葡糖氨基聚糖类和/或胶原蛋白缺失；改善雌激素失衡的效应；预防皮肤萎缩；预防、减少和/或处理色素沉着过度；将皮肤脱色减少到最低限度；改善皮肤色泽、光泽度,澄明度和/或紧固度；预防、减轻和/或改善皮肤下垂；改善皮肤硬度、丰满度、柔韧度和/或柔软性；改善前胶原蛋白和/或胶原蛋白产生；改善皮肤纹理和/或促进重新织构化；改善皮肤屏障修复和/或功能；改善皮肤轮廓外观；恢复皮肤光泽和/或光亮度；将疲劳和/或应激的皮肤病体征减轻到最低限度；抵抗环境应激；补充由衰老和/或绝经减少的皮肤中的成分；改善皮肤细胞中的沟通；增加细胞增殖和/或倍增；增加由衰老和/或绝经减少的皮肤细胞代谢；延缓细胞衰老；改善皮肤保湿性；增强皮肤厚度；增加皮肤弹性和/或回弹力；增强表皮剥脱；改善微循环；减少和/或预防蜂窝组织形成；及其任意的组合。
不希望受到任何特定理论约束，认为本发明的组合物通过刺激胶原蛋白和/或通过经刺激桥粒核心糖蛋白改善角蛋白细胞之间的细胞-细胞粘附促进和改善皮肤美观。
将组合物典型地施用于皮肤，每日一次、两次或三次，条件是必需达到期望的抗衰老效果。处理方案可以包含每日施用，持续至少1周、至少2周、至少4周、至少8周或至少12周。还关注长期处理方案。
将N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺活性成分局部施用于“有此需要的个体”，其含义是持续得益于减少可见皮肤损害或衰老体征的个体。在一个具体的实施方案中，在药学、生理学、化妆品和皮肤病学可接受的赋形剂、稀释剂或载体中提供N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺成分，其中将组合物局部施用于皮肤受侵害的区域并且保持在受侵害区域上的量有效地改善皮肤状况和美观。
在一个实施方案中，用于处理细线和皱纹的方法包含将本发明的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺组合物局部施用于有此需要的个体皮肤，例如局部直接施用于细线和/或皱纹，其用量和时间足以减轻细线和/或皱纹严重性、或预防或抑制新细线和/或皱纹形成。例如，可以通过视觉检查定性地，或例如通过显微镜或计算机辅助的皱纹形态测量(例如皱纹的数量、深度、长度、面积、体积和/或宽度，每单位面积皮肤)定量地评价组合物对细线和皱纹形成或外观的作用。该实施方案包括处理手、臂、腿、颈、胸和面部（包括前额）皮肤上的皱纹。
关注本发明的组合物用于通过将该组合物局部施用于有此需要的个体皮肤处理薄皮肤。“薄皮肤”欲以包括因实足年龄老化、绝经或光损伤导致的变薄的皮肤。在一些实施方案中，处理用于男性的薄皮肤，而在其他实施方案中，处理绝经前的或绝经后的女性的薄皮肤，因为认为在男性和女性中且特别是在不同生命阶段的女性中皮肤变薄有差异。
本发明的方法可以以预防方式用于上述衰老，包括未显示皮肤衰老体征患者，最常见的是在年龄25岁以下的个体中。衰老体征，一旦这种体征被表现出来，在年龄超过25岁的患者中常见。
具体实施方式
下列实施例的含义在于以非限制性方式显示本发明的一些方面。
实施例
实施例1
胶原蛋白试验
在37°C、在10%CO2加湿气体中将人表皮成纤维细胞(CascadeBiologics,Portland,OR)以10,000细胞/孔在96-孔培养板中的补充培养基(DMEM，10%胎牛血清、1%青霉素/链霉素和1%L-谷氨酰胺)中铺平板过夜。第2天，用新鲜培养基(DMEM，1%青霉素/链霉素和1%L-谷氨酰胺)替代所述培养基，将溶于DMSO的化合物以0.0005%的浓度加入到各孔中，一式三份。将DMSO溶液用作对照组。在48-小时温育后，从温育箱中取出培养板，采集来自各孔的培养基用于前胶原蛋白试验。
使用前胶原蛋白I型C-肽(PIP)EIA试剂盒(Takara Bio,I nc.,Japan)测定胶原蛋白产生。简言之，用样品稀释剂按照1:10稀释条件培养基。将20μl稀释的条件培养基和100μl抗体-POD缀合物溶液加入到Takara ELISA培养板的各孔中。将ELISA培养板在37°C温育3小时，然后用400μl的1X PBS将各孔洗涤4次。在洗涤结束时，将100μl底物溶液(使用试剂盒提供)加入到各孔中，在室温温育15分钟。通过将100μl的1N硫酸加入到各孔中终止反应。用分光光度计在450nm波长测定吸收度。根据标准曲线计算条件培养基中前胶原蛋白肽的量。胶原蛋白产生的刺激显示为胶原蛋白超过对照组的增加。
胶原蛋白试验中测试的化合物结果示例在表1中：
表1.在刺激胶原蛋白合成方面具有活性的类似物
"+++":胶原蛋白增加超过对照组51-80%；"++++":胶原蛋白增加超过对照组>81%
将本文引述的全部参考文献包括专利申请和公开文献完整性地引入本文参考，且为了所有目的，其引用程度如同为所有目的而将每篇公开文献或专利或专利申请各自特别和单独所示的完整地引入参考。正如本领域技术人员显而易见的，可以在不脱离本发明精神和范围的情况下对本发明进行许多变型和改变。本文所述的具体实施方案仅作为实施例提供，本发明仅受待批权利要求以及这些权利要求所赋予权力的等效方案的全部范围的限制。
Claims (19)
1.改善人体皮肤美观的方法，包括对有此需要的皮肤区域局部施用有效量的在化妆品可接受的赋形剂中的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺或其化妆品可接受的盐。
2.根据权利要求1的方法，其中所述的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺具有式I的结构：
其中：
W1和W2独立地是CO、CO2、CONH、SO2或PO3；
R1、R2和R3独立地是C1-20烃类，其各自独立地选自烷基、环烷基、卤代烷基、烷氧基烷基、杂烷基、杂芳基、芳基、芳基烷基、烷基芳基、杂芳基、杂芳基烷基和烷基杂芳基，其各自任选被C和/或1-6个包括卤素、O、N和S在内的杂原子取代；
X、Y各自独立地表示H或任选取代的烷基、卤代烷基、烷氧基、氨基、氨基烷基、卤代烷氧基、烯基，且其中相邻X、Y可以一起形成5、6或7元环；
且其中-O-W2-R1基团与苯环在3-或4-位上连接。
3.根据权利要求2的方法，其中R1是C1-4烷基。
4.根据权利要求3的方法，其中R1是-CH3或-CH2CH3。
5.根据权利要求2的方法，其中R2选自异丁基、仲丁基、甲氧基乙基和CH2-2-呋喃基。
6.权利要求5的方法，其中R2是基团异丁基。
7.根据权利要求2的方法，其中W1和W2独立地选自CO、CONH和SO2。
8.根据权利要求7的方法，其中W1是基团-SO2或基团-CONH，且W2是基团-SO2。
9.根据权利要求2的方法，其中R3是烷基、环烷基或芳基。
10.根据权利要求9的方法，其中R3是苯基。
11.根据权利要求1的方法，其中所述皮肤的所述美观改善选自：
(a)处理、减少和/或预防细线或皱纹；
(b)皮肤孔径减小；
(c)皮肤厚度、丰满度和/或紧固度改善；
(d)皮肤柔韧度和/或柔软性改善；
(e)皮肤色泽、光泽度和/或澄明度改善；
(f)前胶原和/或胶原产生改善；
(g)弹性蛋白维持和重塑改善；
(h)皮肤纹理改善和/或促进重织构化；
(i)皮肤屏障修复和/或功能改善；
(j)皮肤轮廓外观改善；
(k)恢复皮肤光泽和/或光亮度；
(l)补充皮肤中的必需营养物和/或成分；
(m)绝经导致的皮肤外观下降的改善；
(n)皮肤保湿性改善；
(o)皮肤弹性和/或回弹力增加；
(p)处理、减少和/或预防皮肤下垂；或
(q)色素斑减少。
12.权利要求11的方法，其中所述皮肤的所述美观改善是处理、减少和/或预防：细线和/或皱纹、皮肤下垂、弹性缺失和脱皮外观。
13.根据权利要求2的方法，其中所述的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺具有下式结构：
或其化妆品可接受的盐，
其中：
X和Y是H；
R1是C1-8烷基、苯基或苄基，各自任选被C和/或1-6个包括卤素、O、N和S在内的杂原子取代；
R2是烷基、芳基、烷基芳基或杂芳基，其各自任选被C和/或1-6个包括卤素、O、N和S在内的杂原子取代；且
R3是烷基或芳基，其各自任选被C和/或1-6个包括卤素、O、N和S在内的杂原子取代；
14.根据权利要求2的方法，其中所述的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺具有如下结构：
或其化妆品可接受的盐，
其中
X和Y是H；
R1是C1-8烷基、苯基或苄基，各自任选被C和/或1-6个包括卤素、O、N和S在内的杂原子取代；
R2是烷基、芳基、烷基芳基或杂芳基，其各自任选被C和/或1-6个包括卤素、O、N和S在内的杂原子取代；且
R3是烷基或芳基，其各自任选被C和/或1-6个包括卤素、O、N和S在内的杂原子取代；
且其中所述的-O-SO2-R1基团与苯环在3-或4-位上连接。
15.根据权利要求2的方法，其中所述的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺具有如下结构：
其中:
X和Y是H；
R1是C1-8烷基、苯基或苄基，其各自任选被C和/或1-6个包括卤素、O、N和S在内的杂原子取代；
R2是烷基、芳基、烷基芳基或杂芳基、各自任选被C和/或1-6个包括卤素、O、N和S在内的杂原子取代；且
R3是烷基或芳基，其各自任选被C和/或1-6个包括卤素、O、N和S在内的杂原子取代。
16.处理皱纹和/或细线的方法，包含对有此需要的个体皮肤上的所述的皱纹和/或细线局部施用有效量的在化妆品可接受的赋形剂中的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺或其化妆品可接受的盐达到足以减少所述皱纹或细线严重性的时间。
17.根据权利要求16的方法，其中将所述的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺或其化妆品可接受的盐施用于所述的皮肤每日至少一次，持续至少4周的期限。
18.化妆品组合物，包含约0.0001%－约25%重量的在化妆品可接受的赋形剂中的N-取代的磺酰氧基苄胺。
19.根据权利要求18的化妆品组合物，其中所述的化妆品可接受的赋形剂包含油包水型乳剂或水包油型乳剂。
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| EP (2) | EP2588460B1 (zh) |
| JP (1) | JP6075733B2 (zh) |
| CN (1) | CN102869649B (zh) |
| AR (1) | AR081788A1 (zh) |
| BR (1) | BR112012028648B1 (zh) |
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| ES (2) | ES2737303T3 (zh) |
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| PL (2) | PL3254669T3 (zh) |
| TR (1) | TR201910526T4 (zh) |
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| CN106727054A (zh) * | 2010-06-30 | 2017-05-31 | 雅芳产品公司 | 用于刺激magp‑1以改善皮肤外观的组合物和方法 |
| US8455518B2 (en) * | 2010-12-28 | 2013-06-04 | Avon Products, Inc. | Method of treating skin with microRNA modulators |
| US10195136B2 (en) | 2011-08-24 | 2019-02-05 | Avon Products, Inc. | Collagen and elastin stimulating compositions and uses thereof |
| WO2014092686A1 (en) * | 2012-12-11 | 2014-06-19 | Avon Products, Inc. | Stephanotis jasminoides extracts and methods of use |
| US9186316B2 (en) | 2012-12-11 | 2015-11-17 | Avon Products, Inc. | Stephanotis jasminoides extracts and methods of use |
| TW201422246A (zh) | 2012-12-11 | 2014-06-16 | Avon Prod Inc | 藉由調節ｗｉｐｉ－１改善皮膚老化外觀之方法 |
| US9345659B2 (en) | 2012-12-11 | 2016-05-24 | Avon Products, Inc. | Use of melicope extracts to improve conditions caused by excess lipids |
| US20150359731A1 (en) * | 2013-03-14 | 2015-12-17 | Avon Products, Inc | Phyllanthus acidus extracts and methods of use |
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| US20090068126A1 (en) * | 2004-10-21 | 2009-03-12 | Luiz Antonio Soares Romeiro | Composition for surface photoprotection |
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| EP3254669B1 (en) | 2019-04-17 |
| JP6075733B2 (ja) | 2017-02-08 |
| MX347848B (es) | 2017-05-16 |
| CA2794129A1 (en) | 2012-01-12 |
| HK1174628A1 (zh) | 2013-06-14 |
| ES2737303T3 (es) | 2020-01-13 |
| US20120004302A1 (en) | 2012-01-05 |
| EP2588460B1 (en) | 2017-08-09 |
| MX2012014495A (es) | 2013-02-21 |
| AR081788A1 (es) | 2012-10-17 |
| TWI552764B (zh) | 2016-10-11 |
| JP2013533255A (ja) | 2013-08-22 |
| EP2588460A4 (en) | 2015-05-06 |
| PL3254669T3 (pl) | 2019-11-29 |
| CA2794129C (en) | 2018-05-01 |
| CN102869649B (zh) | 2016-08-03 |
| EP2588460A1 (en) | 2013-05-08 |
| ES2643632T3 (es) | 2017-11-23 |
| EP3254669A1 (en) | 2017-12-13 |
| WO2012005872A1 (en) | 2012-01-12 |
| PL2588460T3 (pl) | 2017-12-29 |
| TW201206487A (en) | 2012-02-16 |
| TR201910526T4 (tr) | 2019-08-21 |
| BR112012028648A2 (pt) | 2015-09-15 |
| US8815265B2 (en) | 2014-08-26 |
| US9409860B2 (en) | 2016-08-09 |
| US20140329898A1 (en) | 2014-11-06 |
| BR112012028648B1 (pt) | 2018-02-06 |
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