CN101144216A - Method for manufacturing VILOFT warming moisture-absorbing stretch knit face fabric - Google Patents
Method for manufacturing VILOFT warming moisture-absorbing stretch knit face fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN101144216A CN101144216A CNA2006100688214A CN200610068821A CN101144216A CN 101144216 A CN101144216 A CN 101144216A CN A2006100688214 A CNA2006100688214 A CN A2006100688214A CN 200610068821 A CN200610068821 A CN 200610068821A CN 101144216 A CN101144216 A CN 101144216A
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a manufacturing method for VILOFT warm keeping and moisture absorbing knitted fabric. The present invention comprises the following steps: the knitted fabric containing the VILOFT fiber is knitted, and then is processed by a treating liquid containing refined enzyme, and is dyed by adopting the dyeing solution containing a dye complying with the Oeko-Tex 100 standard. The production raw material and the dyeing and finishing process conforming to the environmental protection requirement are adopted for manufacturing, and the product complies with the ecological textile fabric Oeko-Tex 100 standard, the present invention gives full play to the characteristics of the VILOFT fiber fabric that the touching is soft, the draping performance is good, the warm keeping performance is fine, the skin touching feeling and the comfort are very good, and the fiber has higher dried mold quantity, thereby, the wrinkle resistant performance of the fabric is improved compared with other cellulose fiber fabric, and the flexibility and the stability of the shape and the size are excellent, and the manufactured ideal high-grade and environmental protective knitted fabric has beautiful appearance, good quality and fine service performance.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of employing Viloft (VILOFT) fiber and make the method for warming moisture-absorbing stretch knit face fabric.
Background technology
Known, regenerated celulose fibre aboundresources, renewable, environmental protection have good wearability, use existing historical for many years as textile raw material.High performance regenerated celulose fibre is the key areas of industry research and development always.In recent years, constantly there are new varieties to be developed, and successfully realize suitability for industrialized production and application.The Modal that new type of regenerated cellulose fibers and features is known except people, tencel fiber also comprise Viloft (VILOFT) fiber that causes that recently industry is greatly paid close attention to.
Viloft (VILOFT) fiber is the tencel cellulose fiber of being produced by Britain's Acordis (ACORDIS) company, raw material are from natural lignin, produce with solvent method, employed auxiliary material, auxiliary agent are all nontoxic, and most of auxiliary agent and semi-finished product fiber are all recyclable to be reused, the complete compliance with environmental protection requirements of its production process.Viloft (VILOFT) fiber has unique flat fiber cross section, has soft comfortable as the skin; A large amount of space air bags is arranged in the fabric, and the strong attack that can keep out the cold has certain warmth retention property; Good wicking, moisture regulatory function have good sucting wet air permeability.Have texture as the silk with the fabric of this fiber manufacturing, soft comfortable, good permeability, and have the fullness of wool fibre, warmth retention property is good.Distinctive physical property of Viloft fiber and chemical property have determined itself and the blending of cotton, silk, terylene, during particularly with the polyster fibre blending can with the complementation of terylene advantage, have splendid wearability.
The appearance of Viloft (VILOFT) fiber, for the exploitation of new textile provides more wide development space, the peculiar effect of its yarn and fabric has also determined the product vast market prospect.Yet, at present to Viloft (VILOFT) fiber properties and spinning, weave, the big research of dyeing and finishing technique, and the exploitation of fabric variety far can not be satisfied the demand of industry manufacturing and market comsupton.For this reason, must carry out more deep and exploration widely, Viloft (VILOFT) fabric of more excellent performances is provided.
On the other hand, along with the attention to environmental protection, ecological textile is subjected to domestic and international researcher and consumer's attention day by day.Ecological textile is meant that harmful substance and the content thereof on the textiles is controlled in certain scope, can not work the mischief in use to health, and be safe, reliable textiles to human body.About ecological textile multinomial international standard is arranged at present, what industry was generally admitted and adopted is Oeko-Tex 100 standards that International Textile ecological study and detection association formulate and announce.Viloft (VILOFT) fiber is a kind of cellulose fibre of environment-friendly type, is the desirable feedstock of making ecological textile.Ecological index and process technology thereof to Viloft (VILOFT) fiber are studied, and develop high-quality Viloft (VILOFT) fiber textile that meets ecological criteria, have the meaning of particular importance.
Summary of the invention
The purpose of this invention is to provide the method that a kind of manufacturing has the warming moisture-absorbing spring function and meets Viloft (VILOFT) fabric of ecological criteria requirement.
The manufacture method of Viloft provided by the invention (VILOFT) warming moisture-absorbing stretch knit face fabric, may further comprise the steps: weave the knit goods that contains Viloft (VILOFT) fiber, handle fabric with the treatment fluid that contains scouring enzyme, and adopt the dye liquor that contains the dyestuff that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards to carry out air-flow dyeing.
Woven fabric can be that Viloft (VILOFT) pure fibers is spun knit goods or Viloft (VILOFT)/fiber blended knitted fabric of Lycra or Viloft (VILOFT)/blended knitted fabric of polyster fibre.Viloft (VILOFT)/blended knitted fabric of polyster fibre preferably.
Preferably, Viloft (VILOFT)/blended knitted fabric of polyster fibre also comprises the step of hot rolling pre-setting after the step that the enzyme treatment fluid is handled.
Preferably, treatment fluid contains scouring enzyme and chelated dispersants.
Preferably, the staining procedure that contains the knit goods of Viloft (VILOFT) fiber comprises and adopts the dye liquor that contains the REACTIVE DYES that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards that the Viloft in the fabric (VILOFT) fiber is carried out air-flow dyeing.
Preferably, the dye liquor that employing contains the REACTIVE DYES that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards comprises the step that the Viloft in the fabric (VILOFT) fiber carries out air-flow dyeing: 40 ℃ of temperature, PH is the 45-60min that dyes under the condition of 6-8, add liquid fixation alkali then, regulating PH is 10.7 ± 0.2, slowly be warming up to 60-70 ℃, insulation 30-60min carries out fixation, carries out acidity again and soaps.
Preferably, the blended knitted coloration of textile materials step of Viloft (VILOFT)/polyster fibre adopts the dye liquor that contains the DISPERSE DYES that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards that the polyster fibre in the fabric is carried out air-flow dyeing.
Preferably, the dye liquor that employing contains the DISPERSE DYES that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards comprises the step that the polyster fibre in the fabric carries out air-flow dyeing: work that to dye temperature be 40-50 ℃, slowly be warming up to 125-130 ℃, insulation dyeing 20-40min, slowly cooling, reduction cleaning.
Preferably, also comprise the step of handling with the softener that contains hydrophilic silicone oil after the textile dyeing.
Preferably, the step that also comprises dehydration, oven dry, typing after fabric sofetening is handled.
The manufacture method of Viloft provided by the invention (VILOFT) warming moisture-absorbing stretch knit face fabric, its beneficial effect is mainly reflected in the following aspects:
(1) adopt Viloft (VILOFT) fiber and terylene thread to be woven into knit goods, give full play to that Viloft (VILOFT) fabric lining is soft, drapability good, warmth retention property is good, moisture absorption is ventilative, have the splendid close skin sense and the characteristic of comfort, simultaneously because fiber has higher dried modulus, the facing anti-crease performance is increased than other cellulose fibre lining, and elasticity and shape size excellent in stability produce outward appearance U.S., inherent quality is excellent, wearability is good desirable high-grade environmental protection knit fabric.
(2) handle with scouring enzyme and can remove the dirt of being infected with on the fabric in the braiding process effectively, and suppress the fibrillation of Viloft (VILOFT) fiber effectively, make the fabric face after the processing become bright and clean, the feel deliquescing, gloss softens.Because scouring enzyme is a kind of environment amenable biocatalyst, it is fast to have reaction speed, and treatment conditions are gentle, and handling safety is easy to control, can replace chemicals such as highly basic, to advantages such as fibre damage are little, it is biodegradable to handle the waste water that produces, and can reduce the consumption of the water and the energy.And the chelated dispersants in the treatment fluid can reduce or remove heavy metal ion, prevents that heavy metal ion from exceeding standard.
(3) improve the dye-uptake that dyes by pre-setting, and eliminate fabric effectively in weaving process and the influence of the suffered tension force of pre-treatment process, stablize the telescopic variation in the following process, the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of reinforced fiber, eliminate the wrinkle that produce in the preceding process, improve the wearability of fabric.
(4) adopt advanced ultralow bath raio air-flow decoration method, have extraordinary Color, COLOR FASTNESS height, level-dyeing property improve greatly, and to the fabric not damaged, dye the back fabric and do not produce fold and dye trace, improve fabric quality.Simultaneously, significantly reduce dyeing processing water consumption, reduce sewage and generate, reduce the use amount of dyestuff, chemicals, auxiliary agent, cut down the consumption of energy, shorten the dyeing process-cycle, have good ecological environment benefit.
(5) adopt the dyestuff that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards, ensure that end article meets the ecological textile requirement.Adopt the liquid fixation alkali of low consumption to substitute a large amount of soda ash or tertiary sodium phosphates that use in the traditional handicraft, improve colour fixation, avoid producing in the dyeing look flower effectively, improve dried, fastness to wet rubbing, shorten the process time, reduce wastewater discharge, alleviate pollution environment.
(6) adopt the softener that contains hydrophilic silicone oil, have low viscosity, the characteristics of hydrophily, soft effect, good endurance, the fabrics feel soft after the processing, smooth, close skin.
The specific embodiment
I. the selection of raw material:
Adopt Viloft (VILOFT) staple fibre yarn/polyster fibre silk blend yarn, the ratio of Li Sai and terylene is 50: 50.Wherein, Viloft (VILOFT) staple fibre yarn, number is 32s.The polyster fibre silk adopts commercially available fine denier polyester silk, and fiber number is 75D.
Ii. weave:
Adopt Italy's sharp just (ORIZIO) single face large circle machine braiding grey cloth difficult to understand.Weave and adopt behind the machine controlled down Italian volume can (Bianco) machine to carry out that Song Shigan cuts open, the individual layer clot, to solve cloth central fold problem.
Iii. enzyme is handled and pre-setting:
Technical process is: mangle processing → pre-setting → washing → oven dry.
Mangle prescription: scouring enzyme (trade mark SK newly adds ripple hundred victory chemical industry Co., Ltds) 5g/L, chelated dispersants (trade mark 540, German BASF chemical industry Co., Ltd) 1g/L.
The time that mangle is handled is 5 seconds, and temperature is 30 ℃, and the pH value is 6-7.
Pre-setting adopts German BTM setting machine, and temperature is 190 ℃, speed of a motor vehicle 16m/min,
Iv. dyeing:
Adopt Greece's thing to come the airflow dyeing machine of good fortune (SCLAVOS) company, low bath raio 1: 4.Dyeing course comprises respectively polyster fibre, Viloft (VILOFT) fiber is dyeed.
Iv-1. polyster fibre dyeing
Formula for dye liquor: contain DISPERSE DYES, levelling agent, its kind and consumption require according to dyeing and technological requirement is determined.
Technical process: reach 40 ℃ in the dye vat temperature, add levelling agent, operation 3min adds dyestuff, operation 3min, be warming up to 80 ℃ with 3 ℃/min, be warming up to 120 ℃, be warming up to 130 ℃ with 2 ℃/min again with 1 ℃/min, insulation dyeing 30min, be cooled to 80 ℃ with 2 ℃/min, overflow washing 3min carries out reduction cleaning again.
Reduction clearing step comprises: with 60 ℃ of warm water and add liquid caustic soda and clean, be warming up to 70 ℃ with 3 ℃/min, the powder that takes a policy is warming up to 90 ℃ with 3 ℃/min, insulation 15min, and again with 3 ℃/min cooling and overflow washing, temperature is reduced to 60 ℃ and is added the acetic acid neutralization.
Iv-2. Viloft (VILOFT) stock-dye
Formula for dye liquor: contain REACTIVE DYES, glauber salt, SH-T fixation alkali, its kind and consumption require according to dyeing and technological requirement is determined.
Technical process: reach 40 ℃ in the dye vat temperature, add dyestuff, operation 10min adds glauber salt at twice, adjusting PH is 6-8, and operation 10min adds SH-T fixation alkali, and regulating PH is 10.7 ± 0.2, be warming up to 60 ℃ with 1 ℃/min, insulation 60min carries out fixation, and cooling is carried out acidity and soaped.
The step of soaping comprises: clean with 60 ℃ of warm water, add acetic acid and regulate PH to＜7, add soap lye and be warming up to 90 ℃ in 11min, clean 15min, fully overflow washing.
V. soft treatment
Dyeing back adopts dip method to add the dimethicone (trade mark DB-201) of Dow corning company, and addition is 2% (o.w.f), is that 25 ℃, PH are to handle 20min under the condition of 5-6 in temperature.
Vi. dewater, dry, finalize the design
Dewater after the soft treatment, carry out the oven dry of the open width pine formula higher-order of oscillation again, send into German BTM setting machine then and finalize the design.This step is as well known to those skilled in the art, no longer describes in detail.
Vii. goods evaluation
Vii-1. sensory evaluation:
Viloft (VILOFT) fabric lining is soft, drapability good, warmth retention property is good, moisture absorption is ventilative, have the splendid close skin sense and the characteristic of comfort, the facing anti-crease performance increases than other cellulose fibre lining, elasticity and shape size excellent in stability.
Vii-2. performance indications detect:
Test result such as following table with AATCC standard and the U.S.'s test of printing and dyeing Shi Xiehui with the ASTM.D standard of materialogy meeting international organization according to the U.S. textile chemist.
Table 1.
| Test event | Testing standard | The result |
| Fabric width (cm) | ASTM.D 3774-1996 | 144 |
| Grammes per square metre (g/m 2) | ASTM.D 3776-2003 | 234 |
| Washing shrinkage (%) L | AATCC 135-2004((1)IVA(i)， | 1st：-6.3 |
| 66g carves board) | 3rd：-6.7 | |
| Washing shrinkage (%) W | AATCC 135-2004 ((1) IVA (i), 66g carves board) | 1st：-8.5 3rd：-8.8 |
| Twist (%) | AATCC 179-2004 ((1) IVA (i), 66g carves board) | 1st：-11.0 3rd：-10.8 |
| PH value | AATCC 81-2001 | 6.1 |
| Content of formaldehyde (ppm) | AATCC 112-2003 | <20ppm |
| Anti-fluffing and anti-pilling (level) | ASTM.D 3512-2002(30min) | 3.5 |
| Colour fastness to rubbing (doing) | AATCC 8-2004 | 4.5 |
| Colour fastness to rubbing (wetting) | AATCC 8-2004 | 4.5 |
| Fast light according to COLOR FASTNESS | AATCC 16E-2004(20h) | 4.0 |
Table 2.
| Test event | Testing standard | Variable color | Staining | |||||
| Acetic acid | Cotton | Nylon | Wash | Nitrile | Wool | |||
| Color fastness to washing | AATCC 61-2003(2A， 49℃) | 4.5 | 4.5 | 4.5 | 4.5 | 4.5 | 4.5 | 4.5 |
| Colour fastness to perspiration (acid) | AATCC 15-2002 | 4.5 | 4.5 | 4.5 | 4.5 | 4.5 | 4.5 | 4.5 |
Vii-3. environmental-protecting performance
Meet International Textile ecological study and the ecological textile Oeko-Tex 100 I series products standard quality requirements that detect association.
Claims (9)
1. the manufacture method of Viloft (VILOFT) warming moisture-absorbing stretch knit face fabric, may further comprise the steps: weave the knit goods that contains Viloft (VILOFT) fiber, handle fabric with the treatment fluid that contains scouring enzyme, and adopt the dye liquor that contains the dyestuff that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards to carry out air-flow dyeing.
2. the manufacture method of Viloft according to claim 1 (VILOFT) warming moisture-absorbing stretch knit face fabric, may further comprise the steps: weave Viloft (VILOFT)/blended knitted fabric of polyster fibre, handle fabric with the treatment fluid that contains scouring enzyme, the hot rolling pre-setting, and adopt the dye liquor that contains the dyestuff that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards to carry out air-flow dyeing.
3. the manufacture method of Viloft according to claim 1 and 2 (VILOFT) warming moisture-absorbing stretch knit face fabric, described treatment fluid comprises: scouring enzyme and chelated dispersants.
4. the manufacture method of Viloft according to claim 1 and 2 (VILOFT) warming moisture-absorbing stretch knit face fabric, described staining procedure comprises: adopt the dye liquor that contains the REACTIVE DYES that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards that the Viloft in the fabric (VILOFT) fiber is carried out air-flow dyeing.
5. the manufacture method of Viloft according to claim 4 (VILOFT) warming moisture-absorbing stretch knit face fabric, described staining procedure comprises: adopt the dye liquor that contains the REACTIVE DYES that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards, 40 ℃ of temperature, PH is the 45-60min that dyes under the condition of 6-8, add liquid fixation alkali then, regulating PH is 10.7 ± 0.2, slowly is warming up to 60-70 ℃, insulation 30-60min carries out fixation, carries out acidity again and soaps.
6. the manufacture method of Viloft according to claim 2 (VILOFT) warming moisture-absorbing stretch knit face fabric, described staining procedure comprises: adopt the dye liquor that contains the DISPERSE DYES that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards that the polyster fibre in the fabric is carried out air-flow dyeing.
7. the manufacture method of Viloft according to claim 6 (VILOFT) warming moisture-absorbing stretch knit face fabric, described staining procedure comprises: adopt the dye liquor that contains the DISPERSE DYES that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards, work that to dye temperature be 40-50 ℃, slowly be warming up to 125-130 ℃, insulation dyeing 20-40min, slowly cooling, reduction cleaning.
8. the manufacture method of Viloft according to claim 1 and 2 (VILOFT) warming moisture-absorbing stretch knit face fabric also comprises behind the described staining procedure: with the step of the softener processing that contains hydrophilic silicone oil.
9. the manufacture method of Viloft according to claim 8 (VILOFT) warming moisture-absorbing stretch knit face fabric also comprises behind the described fabric sofetening treatment step: the step of dehydration, oven dry, typing.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CNA2006100688214A CN101144216A (en) | 2006-09-15 | 2006-09-15 | Method for manufacturing VILOFT warming moisture-absorbing stretch knit face fabric |
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| CNA2006100688214A CN101144216A (en) | 2006-09-15 | 2006-09-15 | Method for manufacturing VILOFT warming moisture-absorbing stretch knit face fabric |
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| CN102517723A (en) * | 2011-12-08 | 2012-06-27 | 绍兴国周针织科技有限公司 | Full-color yarn and its production process |
| CN102517722A (en) * | 2011-12-08 | 2012-06-27 | 绍兴国周针织科技有限公司 | Spun-dyed yarn produced by vortex spinning and process thereof |
| CN103276600A (en) * | 2013-05-21 | 2013-09-04 | 如皋市协和印染有限公司 | Processing technology of moisture absorption and sweat discharge fiber |
| CN103276510A (en) * | 2013-05-22 | 2013-09-04 | 南通虹宇服饰有限公司 | Knitwear containing Viloft fibers |
| CN103382599A (en) * | 2013-08-06 | 2013-11-06 | 上海婉静纺织科技有限公司 | Blended fabric of milk protein fiber, Viloft fiber and polyester fiber |
| CN104005132A (en) * | 2013-02-22 | 2014-08-27 | 杭州宏宇纺织有限公司 | Saishulun fiber yarn manufacturing process |
| CN105088488A (en) * | 2015-09-25 | 2015-11-25 | 太仓市虹鹰印花有限公司 | Wear-resistant thermal fabric for sleeping bag |
| CN108330612A (en) * | 2018-01-10 | 2018-07-27 | 河南工程学院 | A kind of biodegradable needle thorn insulation flocculus and preparation method thereof |
| CN108570744A (en) * | 2018-04-25 | 2018-09-25 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of production technology of the blended warming-type wool-like fabric of Viloft/ hollow polyesters |
| CN109387449A (en) * | 2017-08-02 | 2019-02-26 | 广东溢达纺织有限公司 | The detection method and fabric pre-setting processing method of pre-setting fabric |
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| CN102517723B (en) * | 2011-12-08 | 2014-08-27 | 绍兴国周针织科技有限公司 | Full-color yarn and its production process |
| CN102517722A (en) * | 2011-12-08 | 2012-06-27 | 绍兴国周针织科技有限公司 | Spun-dyed yarn produced by vortex spinning and process thereof |
| CN102517723A (en) * | 2011-12-08 | 2012-06-27 | 绍兴国周针织科技有限公司 | Full-color yarn and its production process |
| CN102517722B (en) * | 2011-12-08 | 2014-08-27 | 绍兴国周针织科技有限公司 | Spun-dyed yarn produced by vortex spinning and process thereof |
| CN104005132A (en) * | 2013-02-22 | 2014-08-27 | 杭州宏宇纺织有限公司 | Saishulun fiber yarn manufacturing process |
| CN103276600A (en) * | 2013-05-21 | 2013-09-04 | 如皋市协和印染有限公司 | Processing technology of moisture absorption and sweat discharge fiber |
| CN103276600B (en) * | 2013-05-21 | 2015-05-13 | 如皋市协和印染有限公司 | Processing technology of moisture absorption and sweat discharge fiber |
| CN103276510A (en) * | 2013-05-22 | 2013-09-04 | 南通虹宇服饰有限公司 | Knitwear containing Viloft fibers |
| CN103382599A (en) * | 2013-08-06 | 2013-11-06 | 上海婉静纺织科技有限公司 | Blended fabric of milk protein fiber, Viloft fiber and polyester fiber |
| CN103382599B (en) * | 2013-08-06 | 2016-06-15 | 义乌市飓爽贸易有限公司 | Milk protein fibre, Viloft fiber and blend polyester fabric |
| CN105088488A (en) * | 2015-09-25 | 2015-11-25 | 太仓市虹鹰印花有限公司 | Wear-resistant thermal fabric for sleeping bag |
| CN109387449A (en) * | 2017-08-02 | 2019-02-26 | 广东溢达纺织有限公司 | The detection method and fabric pre-setting processing method of pre-setting fabric |
| CN108330612A (en) * | 2018-01-10 | 2018-07-27 | 河南工程学院 | A kind of biodegradable needle thorn insulation flocculus and preparation method thereof |
| CN108570744A (en) * | 2018-04-25 | 2018-09-25 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of production technology of the blended warming-type wool-like fabric of Viloft/ hollow polyesters |
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Open date: 20080319 |