CN101089271A - Manufacturing method of richel fibre ecological fibric - Google Patents
Manufacturing method of richel fibre ecological fibric Download PDFInfo
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- CN101089271A CN101089271A CN 200610044853 CN200610044853A CN101089271A CN 101089271 A CN101089271 A CN 101089271A CN 200610044853 CN200610044853 CN 200610044853 CN 200610044853 A CN200610044853 A CN 200610044853A CN 101089271 A CN101089271 A CN 101089271A
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a production method of Lice fiber ecological fabric. Said production method includes the following several steps: weaving knitted fabric containing Lice fiber; using treatment liquor containing scouring enzyme to treat said fabric; and adopting dye liquor containing dye meeting Oeko-Tex 100 standard to make pneumatic spray dyeing.
Description
Technical field
Novel Pori nosik (Polynosic) fiber that the present invention relates to the beautiful match (Richcel) by name of a kind of employing commodity is made the method for ecological fabric.
Background technology
Known, regenerated celulose fibre aboundresources, renewable, environmental protection have good wearability, use existing historical for many years as textile raw material.High performance regenerated celulose fibre is the key areas of industry research and development always.In recent years, constantly there are new varieties to be developed, and successfully realize suitability for industrialized production and application.The Modal that new type of regenerated cellulose fibers and features is known except people, tencel fiber also comprise a kind of novel Pori nosik (polynosic) fiber that causes that recently industry is greatly paid close attention to.This novel Pori nosik (polynosic) fiber, industry is referred to as richcel fiber or Richcel fiber.The proprietary spining technology manufacturing that it adopts the refining wood pulp of natural coniferous tree and Japanese Japan to spin company forms.At present, on the market obtainable commodity by China " Dandong Japan special fibre Co., Ltd " produce, " go up marine synthetic fibre textile technology Development Co., Ltd " franchise, and sell with trade name " Li Sai (Richcel) ".
Why richcel fiber is subjected to industry is paid attention to, and is because it has very fiber with excellent structure and performance.Studies show that, richcel fiber has smooth garden shape cross section and full cored structure, and the higher degree of orientation and an amount of stable degree of crystallinity, this make its not only have cellulose fibre intrinsic comfortable wearability, also have the intensity height simultaneously, do wet by force than characteristics such as big, acid-fast alkali-proof, dyeability are good.About the more detailed description of richcel fiber, can consult relevant technical data.
Now, richcel fiber has been successfully applied in the product such as knitting, woven.The richcel fiber fabric is compliance with environmental protection requirements both, can satisfy people again and pursue nature, needs comfortable and attractive in appearance day by day, liked by the consumer, has good market development prospect and wide Application Areas.Wherein, the knit fabric that adopts richcel fiber to make is soft, smooth, moisture absorption, perspire, have splendid skin-friendly and comfort, and the elasticity of fabric and shape size excellent in stability.Moreover, richcel fiber also can combine with cotton, silk, hair and various synthetic fiber, produce have good permeability, the knit product of functions such as soft, smooth, warming, high elasticity, antibiotic, uvioresistant.
Yet, at present to richcel fiber characteristic and spinning, weave, the big research of dyeing and finishing technique, and the exploitation of fabric variety far can not be satisfied the demand of industry manufacturing and market comsupton.For this reason, must carry out more deep and exploration widely, the richcel fiber fabric of more excellent performances is provided.
On the other hand, along with the attention to environmental protection, ecological textile is subjected to domestic and international researcher and consumer's attention day by day.Ecological textile is meant that harmful substance and the content thereof on the textiles is controlled in certain scope, can not work the mischief in use to health, and be safe, reliable textiles to human body.About ecological textile multinomial international standard is arranged at present, what industry was generally admitted and adopted is Oeko-Tex 100 standards that International Textile ecological study and detection association formulate and announce.Richcel fiber is a kind of cellulose fibre of environment-friendly type, is the desirable feedstock of making ecological textile.Ecological index and process technology thereof to richcel fiber are studied, and develop the high-quality richcel fiber textiles that meets ecological criteria, have the meaning of particular importance.
Summary of the invention
The purpose of this invention is to provide and a kind ofly make high-quality and meet the method for the richcel fiber fabric that ecological criteria requires.
The manufacture method of richel fibre ecological fibric provided by the invention, it is characterized in that: comprise and weave the knit goods that contains richcel fiber, handle fabric with the treatment fluid that contains scouring enzyme, and adopt the dye liquor that contains the dyestuff that meets the Oeko-Tex100 standard to carry out jet fogging dyeing.
Preferably, fabric is the blended knitted fabric of beautiful match/polyster fibre.
Preferably, knit goods has two-sided eyelet stitch structure.
Preferably, treatment fluid contains scouring enzyme and chelated dispersants.
Preferably, fabric carries out the hot rolling pre-setting after the enzyme treatment fluid is handled.
Preferably, the dye liquor that employing contains the DISPERSE DYES that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards carries out jet fogging dyeing to the polyster fibre in the fabric, and adopts the dye liquor that contains the REACTIVE DYES that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards that the richcel fiber in the fabric is carried out jet fogging dyeing.
Preferably, the dye liquor that employing contains the DISPERSE DYES that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards to the technical process that the polyster fibre in the fabric dyes is: work that to dye temperature be 40-50 ℃, slowly be warming up to 125-130 ℃, insulation dyeing 20-40min, slowly cooling, reduction cleaning.
Preferably, the dye liquor that employing contains the REACTIVE DYES that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards to the technical process that the richcel fiber in the fabric carries out jet fogging dyeing is: 40 ℃ of temperature, PH is the 45-60min that dyes under the condition of 6-8, add liquid fixation alkali then, regulating PH is 10.7 ± 0.2, slowly be warming up to 60-70 ℃, insulation 30-60min carries out fixation, carries out acidity again and soaps.
Preferably, handle with the softener that contains hydrophilic silicone oil after the textile dyeing.
Preferably, fabric sofetening dewaters, dries, finalizes the design after handling.
The manufacture method of richel fibre ecological fibric provided by the invention, its beneficial effect is mainly reflected in the following aspects:
(1) adopts richcel fiber and terylene thread to be woven into knit goods, and have two-sided eyelet stitch structure, both kept the primary characteristic of richcel fiber, wear-resisting wrinkle resistance, elastic stretching and the recoverability of fabric are strengthened, strengthened the wearability of fabric.
(2) handle with scouring enzyme and can remove the dirt of being infected with on the fabric in the braiding process effectively, and suppress the fibrillation of richcel fiber effectively, make the fabric face after the processing become bright and clean, the feel deliquescing, gloss softens.Because scouring enzyme is a kind of environment amenable biocatalyst, it is fast to have reaction speed, and treatment conditions are gentle, and handling safety is easy to control, can replace chemicals such as highly basic, to advantages such as fibre damage are little, it is biodegradable to handle the waste water that produces, and can reduce the consumption of the water and the energy.And the chelated dispersants in the treatment fluid can reduce or remove heavy metal ion, prevents that heavy metal ion from exceeding standard.
(3) improve the dye-uptake that dyes by pre-setting, and eliminate fabric effectively in weaving process and the influence of the suffered tension force of pre-treatment process, stablize the telescopic variation in the following process, the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of reinforced fiber, eliminate the wrinkle that produce in the preceding process, improve the wearability of fabric.
(4) adopt advanced ultralow bath raio air-flow decoration method, have extraordinary Color, COLOR FASTNESS height, level-dyeing property improve greatly, and to the fabric not damaged, dye the back fabric and do not produce fold and dye trace, improve fabric quality.Simultaneously, significantly reduce dyeing processing water consumption, reduce sewage and generate, reduce the use amount of dyestuff, chemicals, auxiliary agent, cut down the consumption of energy, shorten the dyeing process-cycle, have good ecological environment benefit.Compare with traditional handicraft, dying material is saved 10-12%, and auxiliary agent saves 50%, and steam saves 30%, and ton cloth water consumption is saved 30-40%, and COD content reduces more than 20% in the waste water, and sewage load and sewage total release reduce more than 30%.
(5) adopt the dyestuff that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards, ensure that end article meets the ecological textile requirement.Adopt the liquid fixation alkali of low consumption to substitute a large amount of soda ash or tertiary sodium phosphates that use in the traditional handicraft, improve colour fixation, avoid producing in the dyeing look flower effectively, improve dried, fastness to wet rubbing, shorten the process time, reduce wastewater discharge, alleviate pollution environment.
(6) adopt the softener that contains hydrophilic silicone oil, have low viscosity, the characteristics of hydrophily, soft effect, good endurance, the fabrics feel soft after the processing, smooth, close skin.
Richel fibre ecological fibric provided by the invention, its raw material sources is in the refining special-purpose wood pulp that forms of natural coniferous tree, discarded object can be in natural environment biodegrade, adopt the manufacturing of environment-friendly type dyeing and finishing technology, product meets ecological textile Oeko-Tex 100 standards, and it is good to have favorable environment protection.And appearance of fabrics form, DIMENSIONAL STABILITY are good, and its washing shrinkage factor is similar to cotton fiber, and is littler one times than common viscose fiber, washable wearing well; Moisture transported permeable, to the human body skin nonirritant, skin-friendly is good, and is comfortable and easy to wear; Sense of touch is smooth, and drapability is better, not only softness but also be rich in elasticity; It is bright-coloured to dye, and is rich in gloss; Compare with existing cellulose fibre lining, this lining has fabulous performance.
The specific embodiment
I. the selection of raw material:
Adopt beautiful match staple fibre yarn/polyster fibre silk blend yarn, the ratio of Li Sai and terylene is 65: 35.
Wherein, the pure knitting yarn that spins of the trade name " Li Sai (Richcel) " of the upward marine synthetic fibre textile technology of beautiful match staple fibre yarn employing Development Co., Ltd, number is 32s.
The polyster fibre silk adopts commercially available fine denier polyester silk, and fiber number is 75D.
Ii. weave:
The grey cloth that adopts the happy two-sided large circle machine braiding of German moral to have two-sided eyelet stitch structure.Weave and adopt behind the machine controlled down Italian volume can (Bianco) machine to carry out that Song Shigan cuts open, the individual layer clot, to solve cloth central fold problem.
Iii. enzyme is handled and pre-setting:
Technical process is: mangle processing → pre-setting → washing → oven dry.
Mangle prescription: scouring enzyme (trade mark SK newly adds ripple hundred victory chemical industry Co., Ltds) 5g/L, chelated dispersants (trade mark 540, German BASF chemical industry Co., Ltd) 1g/L.
The time that mangle is handled is 5 seconds, and temperature is 30 ℃, and the pH value is 6-7.
Pre-setting adopts German BTM setting machine, and temperature is 190 ℃, speed of a motor vehicle 16m/min,
Iv. dyeing:
Adopt the airflow dyeing machine of German special grace (Then) company, low bath raio 1: 4.Dyeing course comprises respectively polyster fibre, richcel fiber is dyeed.
Iv-1. polyster fibre dyeing
Formula for dye liquor: contain DISPERSE DYES, levelling agent, its kind and consumption require according to dyeing and technological requirement is determined.
Technical process: reach 40 ℃ in the dye vat temperature, add levelling agent, operation 3min adds dyestuff, operation 3min, be warming up to 80 ℃ with 3 ℃/min, be warming up to 120 ℃, be warming up to 130 ℃ with 2 ℃/min again with 1 ℃/min, insulation dyeing 30min, be cooled to 80 ℃ with 2 ℃/min, overflow washing 3min carries out reduction cleaning again.
Reduction clearing step comprises: with 60 ℃ of warm water and add liquid caustic soda and clean, be warming up to 70 ℃ with 3 ℃/min, the powder that takes a policy is warming up to 90 ℃ with 3 ℃/min, insulation 15min, and again with 3 ℃/min cooling and overflow washing, temperature is reduced to 60 ℃ and is added the acetic acid neutralization.
Iv-2. richcel fiber dyeing
Formula for dye liquor: contain REACTIVE DYES, glauber salt, SH-T fixation alkali, its kind and consumption require according to dyeing and technological requirement is determined.
Technical process: reach 40 ℃ in the dye vat temperature, add dyestuff, operation 10min adds glauber salt at twice, adjusting PH is 6-8, and operation 10min adds SH-T fixation alkali, and regulating PH is 10.7 ± 0.2, be warming up to 60 ℃ with 1 ℃/min, insulation 60min carries out fixation, and cooling is carried out acidity and soaped.
The step of soaping comprises: clean with 60 ℃ of warm water, add acetic acid and regulate PH to＜7, add soap lye and be warming up to 90 ℃ in 11min, clean 15min, fully overflow washing.
V. soft treatment
Dyeing back adopts dip method to add the dimethicone (trade mark DB-201) of Dow corning company, and addition is 2% (o.w.f), is that 25 ℃, PH are to handle 20min under the condition of 5-6 in temperature.
Vi. dewater, dry, finalize the design
Dewater after the soft treatment, carry out the oven dry of the open width pine formula higher-order of oscillation again, send into German BTM setting machine then and finalize the design.This step is as well known to those skilled in the art, no longer describes in detail.
Vii. goods evaluation
Vii-1. sensory evaluation:
Has good skin-friendly, snugness of fit, the smooth property of sense of touch, flexibility and elasticity.It is bright-coloured to dye, and is rich in gloss.Compare with existing cellulose fibre lining, this lining has fabulous performance.
Vii-2. performance indications detect:
Table 1, table 2, be according to U.S. textile chemist and the printing and dyeing AATCC standard of Shi Xiehui and U.S.'s test and materialogy can international organization the test result of ASTM.D standard:
Table 1.
| Test event | Testing standard | Requirement | The result |
| Fabric width (cm) | ASTM.D 3774-1996 | 128 | |
| Grammes per square metre (g/m 2) | ASTM.D 3776-2003 | 185-195 | 190 |
| Washing shrinkage (%) L | AATCC 135-2004 ((1) IVB, carving board) | -5 | 1st：-4.4 3rd：-4.5 |
| Washing shrinkage (%) W | AATCC 135-2004 ((1) IVB, carving board) | -5 | 1st：-0.1 3rd：-0.5 |
| Twist (%) | AATCC 179-2004 ((1) IVB, carving board) | 1st：-1.4 3rd：-1.5 | |
| PH value | AATCC 81-2001 | 5-7 | 6.8 |
| BURSTING STRENGTH | ASTM.D 3786-2001 | 250KPa | 250KPa |
| Anti-fluffed the autumn (level) | ASTM.D 3512-2002 (30min) | 4.0 | |
| Rub resistance look firmness (doing) | AATCC 8-2004 | 4.0 | 4.5 |
| Rub resistance look firmness (wetting) | AATCC 8-2004 | 3.5 | 3.0 |
Table 2.
| Test event | Testing standard | Requirement | Variable color | Staining | |||||
| Acetic acid | Cotton | Nylon | Wash | Nitrile | Wool | ||||
| Washable look firmness | AATCC 61-2003 (2A，49℃) | 4.0 | 4.5 | 4.0 | 4.5 | 4.0 | 4.5 | 4.5 | 4.5 |
| Perspiration resistance look firmness (acid) | AATCC 15-2002 | 4.0 | 4.5 | 4.5 | 4.5 | 4.5 | 4.5 | 4.5 | 4.5 |
Vii-3. environmental-protecting performance
Meet International Textile ecological study and the ecological textile Oeko-Tex 100 I series products standard quality requirements that detect association.
Claims (10)
1, the manufacture method of richel fibre ecological fibric is characterized in that: comprise and weave the knit goods that contains richcel fiber, handle fabric with the treatment fluid that contains scouring enzyme, and adopt the dye liquor that contains the dyestuff that meets Oeko-Tex 100 standards to carry out jet fogging dyeing.
2, the manufacture method of richel fibre ecological fibric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: fabric is the blended knitted fabric of beautiful match/polyster fibre.
3, the manufacture method of richel fibre ecological fibric according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that: knit goods has two-sided eyelet stitch structure.
4, the manufacture method of richel fibre ecological fibric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: treatment fluid contains scouring enzyme and chelated dispersants.
5, the manufacture method of richel fibre ecological fibric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: fabric carries out the hot rolling pre-setting after the enzyme treatment fluid is handled.
6, the manufacture method of richel fibre ecological fibric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: adopt the dye liquor that contains the DISPERSE DYES that meets the Oeko-Tex100 standard that the polyster fibre in the fabric is carried out jet fogging dyeing, and adopt the dye liquor that contains the REACTIVE DYES that meets the Oeko-Tex100 standard that the richcel fiber in the fabric is carried out jet fogging dyeing.
7, according to the manufacture method of claim 1 or 6 described richel fibre ecological fibrics, it is characterized in that: adopt the dye liquor contain the DISPERSE DYES that meets the Oeko-Tex100 standard to be: work that to dye temperature be 40-50 ℃ the technical process that the polyster fibre in the fabric dyes, slowly be warming up to 125-130 ℃, insulation dyeing 20-40min, slowly cooling, reduction cleaning.
8, according to the manufacture method of claim 1 or 6 described richel fibre ecological fibrics, it is characterized in that: adopt the dye liquor that contains the REACTIVE DYES that meets the Oeko-Tex100 standard to be: 40 ℃ of temperature to the technical process that the richcel fiber in the fabric carries out jet fogging dyeing, PH is the 45-60min that dyes under the condition of 6-8, add liquid fixation alkali then, regulating PH is 10.7 ± 0.2, slowly be warming up to 60-70 ℃, insulation 30-60min carries out fixation, carries out acidity again and soaps.
9, the manufacture method of richel fibre ecological fibric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: handle with the softener that contains hydrophilic silicone oil after the textile dyeing.
10, the manufacture method of richel fibre ecological fibric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: fabric sofetening dewaters, dries, finalizes the design after handling.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN 200610044853 CN101089271A (en) | 2006-06-12 | 2006-06-12 | Manufacturing method of richel fibre ecological fibric |
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| CN 200610044853 CN101089271A (en) | 2006-06-12 | 2006-06-12 | Manufacturing method of richel fibre ecological fibric |
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Cited By (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102154813A (en) * | 2010-12-14 | 2011-08-17 | 江苏华佳丝绸有限公司 | Production process of knitted printed fabric |
| CN102501445A (en) * | 2011-10-31 | 2012-06-20 | 苏州创宇织造有限公司 | Composite thermal-insulation breathable shell fabric |
| CN103276511A (en) * | 2013-05-22 | 2013-09-04 | 南通虹宇服饰有限公司 | Knitwear containing Richcel fibers |
| CN103276600A (en) * | 2013-05-21 | 2013-09-04 | 如皋市协和印染有限公司 | Processing technology of moisture absorption and sweat discharge fiber |
| CN103498249A (en) * | 2013-09-09 | 2014-01-08 | 上海婉静纺织科技有限公司 | Spun silk, Richcel fiber and polyester blended fabric |
| CN105054849A (en) * | 2015-08-31 | 2015-11-18 | 陈剑 | Manufacturing technology of antibiosis richcel fiber towel |
| CN105962475A (en) * | 2016-06-06 | 2016-09-28 | 际华三五四三针织服饰有限公司 | Manufacturing method of anti-static heating and warm keeping sweater |
| CN107541960A (en) * | 2017-07-25 | 2018-01-05 | 南通唐盛纺织有限公司 | Moisture absorption anti-UV fabric one-pass bath method for dyeing technique |
-
2006
- 2006-06-12 CN CN 200610044853 patent/CN101089271A/en active Pending
Cited By (9)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102154813A (en) * | 2010-12-14 | 2011-08-17 | 江苏华佳丝绸有限公司 | Production process of knitted printed fabric |
| CN102501445A (en) * | 2011-10-31 | 2012-06-20 | 苏州创宇织造有限公司 | Composite thermal-insulation breathable shell fabric |
| CN103276600A (en) * | 2013-05-21 | 2013-09-04 | 如皋市协和印染有限公司 | Processing technology of moisture absorption and sweat discharge fiber |
| CN103276600B (en) * | 2013-05-21 | 2015-05-13 | 如皋市协和印染有限公司 | Processing technology of moisture absorption and sweat discharge fiber |
| CN103276511A (en) * | 2013-05-22 | 2013-09-04 | 南通虹宇服饰有限公司 | Knitwear containing Richcel fibers |
| CN103498249A (en) * | 2013-09-09 | 2014-01-08 | 上海婉静纺织科技有限公司 | Spun silk, Richcel fiber and polyester blended fabric |
| CN105054849A (en) * | 2015-08-31 | 2015-11-18 | 陈剑 | Manufacturing technology of antibiosis richcel fiber towel |
| CN105962475A (en) * | 2016-06-06 | 2016-09-28 | 际华三五四三针织服饰有限公司 | Manufacturing method of anti-static heating and warm keeping sweater |
| CN107541960A (en) * | 2017-07-25 | 2018-01-05 | 南通唐盛纺织有限公司 | Moisture absorption anti-UV fabric one-pass bath method for dyeing technique |
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