WO2024113150A1 - Composition for caring for keratin materials - Google Patents

Composition for caring for keratin materials Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024113150A1
WO2024113150A1 PCT/CN2022/134956 CN2022134956W WO2024113150A1 WO 2024113150 A1 WO2024113150 A1 WO 2024113150A1 CN 2022134956 W CN2022134956 W CN 2022134956W WO 2024113150 A1 WO2024113150 A1 WO 2024113150A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
composition according
active ingredient
salt type
gum
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2022/134956
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Ji SONG
Shan Wu
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to PCT/CN2022/134956 priority Critical patent/WO2024113150A1/en
Priority to FR2300586A priority patent/FR3142354A1/en
Publication of WO2024113150A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024113150A1/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

Definitions

  • the skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body from physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi) .
  • the epidermis is a keratinized stratified pavimentous epithelium. Its mean thickness ranges from 60 to 100 ⁇ m and may reach 600 to 700 ⁇ m on the sole of the feet and the palm of the hands. It consists mainly of keratinocytes, but also other cells, and rests on a basal membrane that separates it from the dermis.
  • the skin undergoes changes in all its compartments, i.e. dermal and epidermal.
  • the development of formulations dedicated to caring for the skin is permanent.
  • Some cosmetic products comprise active ingredients of salt type for caring for the skin.
  • active ingredients of salt type for caring for the skin.
  • dipotassium glycyrrhizate, magnesium sulfate, and low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate can be used as active ingredients of salt type.
  • compositions for caring for keratin materials comprising a relatively higher amount of active ingredients of salt type, the salt contained therein can suspend in the system stably and there is no noodling risk.
  • the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising in an aqueous phase:
  • composition according to the present invention can be used to care for the keratin materials due to the presence of the at least one cosmetic active ingredient of salt type.
  • composition according to the present invention will not have noodling issue upon application to keratin materials and the salt contained therein will suspend in the system stably.
  • the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.
  • keratin materials is intended to cover the hair, human skin, and mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
  • composition for caring for keratin materials according to the present invention comprises in an aqueous phase:
  • the composition of the present invention comprises xanthan gum.
  • Xanthan gum is a high molecular weight polysaccharide or hydrophilic colloid (also known as a gum) that is produced by fermentation of various species of the Xanthomonas, such as X. carotae, X. campestris, X. incanae, X. begoniae and X. malvacearum.
  • Xanthan gum may comprise in their structure three different monosaccharides, namely mannose, glucose and glucuronic acid, in salt form, such as in the form of the sodium salt.
  • Xanthan gum may have, for example, a viscosity ranging from 800 to 2000 cps for an aqueous composition containing 1%KCl and 1%xanthan gum (measured at 25°C. using a Brookfield viscometer, type LVT at 60 rpm) . It has a molecular weight ranging, for example, from 1 000 000 to 50 000 000.
  • Xanthane gums which are more particularly preferred are KELTROL marketed by KELCO, a 1%aqueous solution, 1%KCL of which has a Brookfield LVT viscosity at 60 rpm of 800 to 1700 cps, KELZAN S marketed by KELCO, a 1%aqueous solution of which has a Brookfield LVT viscosity at 60 rpm of 1000 cP, Rhodopol 23, 23 U, and 23 C marketed by Rhone-Poulenc, a 1%aqueous solution with 1%KCl of which has a Brookfield LVT viscosity at 60 rpm of 1200-1800 cps, Deuteron XG marketed by Schoner GmbH., a 1%aqueous solution of which has a Brookfield LVT viscosity at 30 rpm of 2400 cps, and Actigum CX9 marketed by CECA, a 1%aqueous solution of which has a Brookfield LVT viscos
  • xanthum gum is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one sphingan exopolysaccharide.
  • Sphingans are biogums which can be produced by bacteria of the genus Sphingomonas.
  • Sphingans are structurally closely related bacterial exopolysaccharides produced by members of the genus Sphingomonas. Sphingan expolysaccharides can be produced, i.e. are obtainable, by fermentation of a carbohydrate by bacteria of the genus Sphingomonas. The most commonly known sphingans include gellan, welan, rhamsan and diutan and these exhibit excellent rheological properties. Sphingans are structurally related by a backgone that comprises the sugars D-glucose, D-glucuronic acid and L-rhamnose (or L-mannose) but differ in the nature and location of their side-chains and in the presence or absence of acyl groups.
  • the at least one sphingan exopolysaccharide can be chosen from the group consisting of gellan, welan, diutan gum and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one sphingan exopolysaccharide can be selected from gellan, welan and diutan gum, or combination thereof.
  • Welan gum is a biogum which can be produced by fermentation of bacteria from the genus Alcaligenes or the genus Sphingomonas. More specifically, welan gum is an exopolysaccharide that can be produced, i.e. is obtainable, by fermentation of a carbohydrate by bacteria from the genus Alcaligenes or the genus Sphingomonas.
  • Welan gum is a polymer that has a repeating tetrasaccharide backbone chain containing L-mannose, L-rhamnose, D-glucose, and D-glucuronic acid. In one particular embodiment, the welan gum is obtained by fermentation of a carbohydrate by bacteria from genus Sphingomonas.
  • Gellan gum is a biogum which can be produced by fermentation of bacteria of the species Sphingomonas elodea.
  • Gellan gum is a water-soluble anionic polysaccharide produced by the bacterium Sphingomonas elodea. More specifically, gellan gum is an exopolysaccharide that can be produced, i.e. is obtainable, by fermentation of a carbohydrate by bacteria of the species Sphingomonas elodea. It is a polymer which has, as a repeating unit, a tetrasaccharide which consists of two residues of D-glucose and one of each residue of L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid.
  • Diutan gum also known as heteropolysaccharide S-657, is a biogum which is produced by fermentation of a bacteria strain from genus Shingomonas, for example, a bacteria strain from genus Shingomonas deposited in the American Type Culture Collection (ATCC) with deposit number ATCC 53159. More specifically, diutan gum is an exopolysaccharide that can be produced, i.e. is obtainable, by fermentation of a carbohydrate by bacteria from the genus Shingomonas, and, in particular, a bacteria strain from genus Shingomonas having a deposit number ATCC 53159.
  • ATCC American Type Culture Collection
  • Diutan generally exhibits a hexameric repeat unit consisting of four sugars in the backbone (glucose-glucuronic acid-glucose-rhamnose) and a side chain of two rhamnose residues attached to one of the glucose residues.
  • One non-limiting example of commercially available diutan gum is Kelcocare TM diutan gum from CP Kelco.
  • Diutan gum is also commonly referred as S-657 polysaccharide.
  • the composition comprises a sphingan exopolysaccharide selected from welan, diutan gum or a combination thereof.
  • the composition comprises diutan gum as sphingan exopolysaccharide.
  • the sphingan exopolysaccharide is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, preferably from 0.06 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of xanthan gum to the sphingan exopolysaccharide is between 1.3: 1 and 4: 1, preferably between 1.5: 1 and 3: 1.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient of salt type.
  • the cosmetic active ingredient of salt type is not particularly limited. It can be selected from active ingredients of salt type for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, such as anti-redness agents, anti-inflammation agents, and the like.
  • active ingredients of salt type for caring for keratin materials such as the skin
  • the cosmetic active ingredient of salt type is selected from sodium slats, potassium salts, magnesium salts, zinc salts, calcium salts, or their combinations, for caring for keratin materials such as the skin.
  • sodium salts for caring for keratin materials such as the skin
  • potassium salts for caring for keratin materials such as the skin
  • magnesium salts for caring for keratin materials such as the skin mention can be made of magnesium sulfate, magnesium ascorbyl phophate, and the like.
  • zinc salts for caring for keratin materials such as the skin
  • calcium salts for caring for keratin materials such as the skin mention can be made of calcium chloride, and the like.
  • the cosmetic active ingredient of salt type is selected from sodium hyaluronate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, sodium lactate, sodium ascorbate phosphate, sodium azulene sulfonate, sodium ascorbate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium ascorbyl phophate, zinc gluconate, calcium chloride, or their combinations.
  • the weight ratio of the sphingan exopolysaccharide to the cosmetic active ingredient of salt type is between 0.04: 1 and 0.2: 1, preferably between 0.05: 1 and 0.15: 1.
  • composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.
  • Said aqueous phase comprises water.
  • the aqueous phase comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25°C) selected from ethanol, glycols and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof, so as to provide a hydration effect.
  • an organic solvent miscible with water selected from ethanol, glycols and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and
  • water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 65 wt.%to 88 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise an oily phase.
  • the oily phase contains at least one oil, notably a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.
  • oil means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • non-volatile refers to an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .
  • volatile oil means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the oily phase may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-O group.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • the oily phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
  • the inventors have found that if there is an oil present in the composition according to the present invention, the oil will not leak out from the system.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise an additional cosmetic active ingredient.
  • moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates; botanical extracts (such as carica papaya fruit extract, hydrolyzed opuntia ficus-indica flower extract) ; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin E (tocopherol) , vitamin C (ascorbic acid) , and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; tightening agents; agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.
  • moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates; botanical extracts (such as carica papaya fruit extract, hydrolyzed opuntia ficus-indica flower extract) ; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin E (tocopherol) , vitamin C (ascorbic acid) , and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; tightening agents; agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance, pH regulators, surfactants, other thickeners, and mixtures thereof.
  • the present invention provides a composition for caring for the skin comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • weight ratio of xanthan to the sphingan exopolysaccharide is between 1.3: 1 and 4: 1;
  • the weight ratio of the sphingan exopolysaccharide to the cosmetic active ingredient of salt type is between 0.04: 1 and 0.2: 1.
  • composition of the present invention can be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or a homogeneous hydrous system.
  • composition of the present invention can be used for caring for keratin materials, especially the skin.
  • the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for the skin, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to keratin materials, especially the skin.
  • compositions of invention examples (IE) 1-5 and comparative examples (CE) 1-5 were prepared based on the amounts given in Table 2. The amounts are given in%by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking the composition of invention example 1 as an example:
  • the suspension property of a composition to be tested was evaluated as follows.
  • the centrifuged sample was compared with the original sample in terms of appearance. If the centrifuged sample is identical to the original sample (even phase) , it will be considered as passing the suspension test. If the centrifuged sample is different from the original sample (for example separated into two phases or sediment occurs) , it will be considered as failing for the suspension test.
  • the noodling risk of each composition prepared was evaluated by one sensory expert through special gesture as below:
  • composition of the present invention can pass the suspension test and has no noodling risk.

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Abstract

A composition for caring for keratin materials comprises an aqueous phase: (i) xanthan gum; (ii) at least one sphingan exopolysaccharide; and (iii) at least 0.5 mmol/L of at least one cosmetic active ingredient of salt type, relative to the total volume of the composition.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CARING FOR KERATIN MATERIALS TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials.
BACKGROUND ART
The skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body from physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi) . The epidermis is a keratinized stratified pavimentous epithelium. Its mean thickness ranges from 60 to 100μm and may reach 600 to 700μm on the sole of the feet and the palm of the hands. It consists mainly of keratinocytes, but also other cells, and rests on a basal membrane that separates it from the dermis.
During the menopause, the skin undergoes changes in all its compartments, i.e. dermal and epidermal. The development of formulations dedicated to caring for the skin is permanent.
Some cosmetic products comprise active ingredients of salt type for caring for the skin. For example, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, magnesium sulfate, and low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate, can be used as active ingredients of salt type.
However, for some cosmetic products comprising a relatively higher amount of active ingredients of salt type, it will be difficult for the salt to suspend in the system stably; meanwhile there will be noodling risk.
Thus, there is still a need to formulate a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising a relatively higher amount of active ingredients of salt type, the salt contained therein can suspend in the system stably and there is no noodling risk.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate compositions for caring for keratin materials comprising a relatively higher amount of active ingredients of salt type, the salt contained therein can suspend in the system stably and there is no noodling risk.
Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising in an aqueous phase:
(i) xanthan gum;
(ii) at least one sphingan exopolysaccharide; and
(iii) at least 0.5 mmol/L of at least one cosmetic active ingredient of salt type, relative to the total volume of the composition.
The composition according to the present invention can be used to care for the keratin materials due to the presence of the at least one cosmetic active ingredient of salt type.
The inventors have found that the composition according to the present invention will not have noodling issue upon application to keratin materials and the salt contained therein will suspend in the system stably.
In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.
Other advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between... and…" and "from... to... " .
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin materials” is intended to cover the hair, human skin, and mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.
The composition for caring for keratin materials according to the present invention comprises in an aqueous phase:
(i) xanthan gum;
(ii) at least one sphingan exopolysaccharide; and
(iii) at least 0.5 mmol/L of at least one cosmetic active ingredient of salt type, relative to the total volume of the composition.
Xanthan gum
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises xanthan gum.
Xanthan gum is a high molecular weight polysaccharide or hydrophilic colloid (also known as a gum) that is produced by fermentation of various species of the Xanthomonas, such as X. carotae, X. campestris, X. incanae, X. begoniae and X. malvacearum. Xanthan gum may comprise in their structure  three different monosaccharides, namely mannose, glucose and glucuronic acid, in salt form, such as in the form of the sodium salt.
Xanthan gum may have, for example, a viscosity ranging from 800 to 2000 cps for an aqueous composition containing 1%KCl and 1%xanthan gum (measured at 25℃. using a Brookfield viscometer, type LVT at 60 rpm) . It has a molecular weight ranging, for example, from 1 000 000 to 50 000 000.
Xanthane gums which are more particularly preferred are KELTROL marketed by KELCO, a 1%aqueous solution, 1%KCL of which has a Brookfield LVT viscosity at 60 rpm of 800 to 1700 cps, KELZAN S marketed by KELCO, a 1%aqueous solution of which has a Brookfield LVT viscosity at 60 rpm of 1000 cP, Rhodopol 23, 23 U, and 23 C marketed by Rhone-Poulenc, a 1%aqueous solution with 1%KCl of which has a Brookfield LVT viscosity at 60 rpm of 1200-1800 cps, Deuteron XG marketed by Schoner GmbH., a 1%aqueous solution of which has a Brookfield LVT viscosity at 30 rpm of 2400 cps, and Actigum CX9 marketed by CECA, a 1%aqueous solution of which has a Brookfield LVT viscosity at 30 rpm of 1200 cps, KELZAN K9 C57 marketed by KELCO, a 11%aqueous solution of which has a Brookfield LVT viscosity at 60 rpm of 630 to 1,000 cP.
Advantageously, xanthum gum is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Sphingan exopolysaccharides
According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one sphingan exopolysaccharide.
The terms “sphingan exopolysaccharide” and “sphingan” are used interchangeably herein. Sphingans are biogums which can be produced by bacteria of the genus Sphingomonas.
Sphingans are structurally closely related bacterial exopolysaccharides produced by members of the genus Sphingomonas. Sphingan expolysaccharides can be produced, i.e. are obtainable, by fermentation of a carbohydrate by bacteria of the genus Sphingomonas. The most commonly  known sphingans include gellan, welan, rhamsan and diutan and these exhibit excellent rheological properties. Sphingans are structurally related by a backgone that comprises the sugars D-glucose, D-glucuronic acid and L-rhamnose (or L-mannose) but differ in the nature and location of their side-chains and in the presence or absence of acyl groups. Details of the structures of sphingans can be found in the literature, for instance in a book by Glaeser S.P., Kampfer P. (2014) The Family Sphingomonadaceae, and in Rosenberg E., DeLong E.F., Lory S., Stackebrandt E., Thompson F. (eds) , The Prokaryotes, Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. The at least one sphingan exopolysaccharide can be chosen from the group consisting of gellan, welan, diutan gum and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the at least one sphingan exopolysaccharide can be selected from gellan, welan and diutan gum, or combination thereof.
Welan gum is a biogum which can be produced by fermentation of bacteria from the genus Alcaligenes or the genus Sphingomonas. More specifically, welan gum is an exopolysaccharide that can be produced, i.e. is obtainable, by fermentation of a carbohydrate by bacteria from the genus Alcaligenes or the genus Sphingomonas. Welan gum is a polymer that has a repeating tetrasaccharide backbone chain containing L-mannose, L-rhamnose, D-glucose, and D-glucuronic acid. In one particular embodiment, the welan gum is obtained by fermentation of a carbohydrate by bacteria from genus Sphingomonas.
Gellan gum is a biogum which can be produced by fermentation of bacteria of the species Sphingomonas elodea. Gellan gum is a water-soluble anionic polysaccharide produced by the bacterium Sphingomonas elodea. More specifically, gellan gum is an exopolysaccharide that can be produced, i.e. is obtainable, by fermentation of a carbohydrate by bacteria of the species Sphingomonas elodea. It is a polymer which has, as a repeating unit, a tetrasaccharide which consists of two residues of D-glucose and one of each residue of L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid.
Diutan gum, also known as heteropolysaccharide S-657, is a biogum which is produced by fermentation of a bacteria strain from genus Shingomonas, for example, a bacteria strain from genus Shingomonas  deposited in the American Type Culture Collection (ATCC) with deposit number ATCC 53159. More specifically, diutan gum is an exopolysaccharide that can be produced, i.e. is obtainable, by fermentation of a carbohydrate by bacteria from the genus Shingomonas, and, in particular, a bacteria strain from genus Shingomonas having a deposit number ATCC 53159. Diutan generally exhibits a hexameric repeat unit consisting of four sugars in the backbone (glucose-glucuronic acid-glucose-rhamnose) and a side chain of two rhamnose residues attached to one of the glucose residues. One non-limiting example of commercially available diutan gum is Kelcocare TM diutan gum from CP Kelco. Diutan gum is also commonly referred as S-657 polysaccharide.
More preferably, the composition comprises a sphingan exopolysaccharide selected from welan, diutan gum or a combination thereof.
Most preferably, the composition comprises diutan gum as sphingan exopolysaccharide.
Advantageously, the sphingan exopolysaccharide is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, preferably from 0.06 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the weight ratio of xanthan gum to the sphingan exopolysaccharide is between 1.3: 1 and 4: 1, preferably between 1.5: 1 and 3: 1.
Cosmetic active ingredient of salt type
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient of salt type.
The cosmetic active ingredient of salt type is not particularly limited. It can be selected from active ingredients of salt type for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, such as anti-redness agents, anti-inflammation agents, and the like.
As examples of active ingredients of salt type for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, mention can be made of sodium salts, potassium salts, magnesium salts, zinc salts, calcium salts, and so on.
Thus, according to some embodiments, the cosmetic active ingredient of salt type is selected from sodium slats, potassium salts, magnesium salts, zinc  salts, calcium salts, or their combinations, for caring for keratin materials such as the skin.
In particular, as examples of sodium salts for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, mention can be made of sodium hyaluronate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, sodium lactate, sodium ascorbate phosphate, sodium azulene sulfonate, sodium ascorbate, and the like.
As examples of potassium salts for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, mention can be made of dipotassium glycyrrhizate, and the like.
As examples of magnesium salts for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, mention can be made of magnesium sulfate, magnesium ascorbyl phophate, and the like.
As examples of zinc salts for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, mention can be made of zinc gluconate, and the like.
As examples of calcium salts for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, mention can be made of calcium chloride, and the like.
In some embodiments, the cosmetic active ingredient of salt type is selected from sodium hyaluronate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, sodium lactate, sodium ascorbate phosphate, sodium azulene sulfonate, sodium ascorbate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium ascorbyl phophate, zinc gluconate, calcium chloride, or their combinations.
It is easy for the skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the cosmetic active ingredient of salt type based on the desired use of the composition according to the present invention.
Advantageously, the weight ratio of the sphingan exopolysaccharide to the cosmetic active ingredient of salt type is between 0.04: 1 and 0.2: 1, preferably between 0.05: 1 and 0.15: 1.
Aqueous phase
The composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.
Said aqueous phase comprises water.
Optionally, the aqueous phase comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25℃) selected from ethanol, glycols and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and  preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof, so as to provide a hydration effect.
Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 65 wt.%to 88 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oily phase
The composition of the present invention may comprise an oily phase.
The oily phase contains at least one oil, notably a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.
The term “oil” means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
The term “non-volatile” refers to an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .
For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
The oily phase may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-O group.
The term "fluoro oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
If presents, advantageously, the oily phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %,  preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
The inventors have found that if there is an oil present in the composition according to the present invention, the oil will not leak out from the system.
Additional cosmetic active ingredients
The composition of the present invention may comprise an additional cosmetic active ingredient.
As examples of cosmetic active ingredient, mention can be made of moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates; botanical extracts (such as carica papaya fruit extract, hydrolyzed opuntia ficus-indica flower extract) ; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin E (tocopherol) , vitamin C (ascorbic acid) , and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; tightening agents; agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.
It is easy for the skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the additional cosmetic active ingredient based on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
Additional adjuvants or additives
The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance, pH regulators, surfactants, other thickeners, and mixtures thereof.
The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional adjuvants or additive so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for caring for the skin comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:
(i) from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %of xanthan gum;
(ii) from 0.06 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %of diutan gum; and
(iii) at least 0.5 mmol/L of at least one active ingredient of salt type,
wherein the weight ratio of xanthan to the sphingan exopolysaccharide is between 1.3: 1 and 4: 1;
the weight ratio of the sphingan exopolysaccharide to the cosmetic active ingredient of salt type is between 0.04: 1 and 0.2: 1.
Galenic form and method
The composition of the present invention can be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or a homogeneous hydrous system.
The composition of the present invention can be used for caring for keratin materials, especially the skin.
According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for the skin, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to keratin materials, especially the skin.
The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
EXAMPLES
Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.
Table 1
Figure PCTCN2022134956-appb-000001
Figure PCTCN2022134956-appb-000002
Invention Examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-5
Compositions of invention examples (IE) 1-5 and comparative examples (CE) 1-5 were prepared based on the amounts given in Table 2. The amounts are given in%by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.
Figure PCTCN2022134956-appb-000003
Preparation process:
The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking the composition of invention example 1 as an example:
1) . adding xanthan gum, diutan gum, and sodium hyaluronate into water of 50℃ in a main beaker with stirring;
2) . adding dipotassium glycyrrhizate, magnesium sulfate, and cocos nucifera (coconut) oil into the main beaker with stirring to obtain the composition.
Evaluation
Suspension property
The suspension property of a composition to be tested was evaluated as follows.
About 20g of the sample to be evaluated was put in a centrifugation tube and centrifuged at 900 r/min for 1 hour at room temperature (25℃) .
The centrifuged sample was compared with the original sample in terms of appearance. If the centrifuged sample is identical to the original sample (even phase) , it will be considered as passing the suspension test. If the centrifuged sample is different from the original sample (for example separated into two phases or sediment occurs) , it will be considered as failing for the suspension test.
Noodling risk
The noodling risk of each composition prepared was evaluated by one sensory expert through special gesture as below:
1) apply 0.2 ml sample to be evaluated on a half face;
2) bend the fingers; and
3) glide the knuckles over the subject’s skin using slight pressure.
If no or small amount of noodles (with a size small than 0.5 cm and number of which is fewer than 5 pieces) were observed, then it will be considered that the sample tested pass the noodle test, and if there are medium size or lots of noodles (for example, with size larger than 0.5 cm or  number of which is more than 5 pieces) , then it will be considered that the sample tested fails the noodle test.
The results on whether the composition tested pass or failed the suspension test or the noodle test are summarized in Table 3.
Table 3
Figure PCTCN2022134956-appb-000004
It can be concluded that the composition of the present invention can pass the suspension test and has no noodling risk.

Claims (14)

  1. A composition for caring for keratin materials comprising in an aqueous phase:
    (i) xanthan gum;
    (ii) at least one sphingan exopolysaccharide; and
    (iii) at least 0.5 mmol/L of at least one cosmetic active ingredient of salt type, relative to the total volume of the composition.
  2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein xanthan gum has a viscosity ranging from 800 to 2000 cps for an aqueous composition containing 1%KCl and 1%xanthan gum, as measured at 25℃ using a Brookfield viscometer at 60 rpm.
  3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein xanthan gum has a molecular weight ranging from 1 000 000 to 50 000 000.
  4. Composition of any of claims 1 to 3, wherein xanthum gum is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  5. Composition of any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the sphingan exopolysaccharide is selected from gellan, welan and diutan gum, or combination thereof.
  6. Composition of any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the sphingan exopolysaccharide is diutan gum.
  7. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 6, wherein the sphingan exopolysaccharide is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, preferably from 0.06 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  8. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 7, wherein the weight ratio of xanthan gum to the sphingan exopolysaccharide is between 1.3: 1 and 4: 1, preferably between 1.5: 1 and 3: 1.
  9. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 8, wherein the cosmetic active ingredient of salt type is selected from sodium slats, potassium salts, magnesium salts, zinc salts, or their combinations, for caring for keratin materials.
  10. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 9, wherein the cosmetic active ingredient of salt type is selected from sodium hyaluronate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, sodium lactate, sodium ascorbate phosphate, sodium azulene sulfonate, sodium ascorbate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium ascorbyl phophate, zinc gluconate, calcium chloride, or their combinations.
  11. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 10, wherein the weight ratio of the sphingan exopolysaccharide to the cosmetic active ingredient of salt type is between 0.04: 1 and 0.2: 1, preferably between 0.05: 1 and 0.15: 1.
  12. Composition according to claim 1, comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:
    (i) from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %of xanthan gum;
    (ii) from 0.06 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %of diutan gum; and
    (iii) at least 0.5 mmol/L of at least one cosmetic active ingredient of salt type,
    wherein the weight ratio of xanthan to the sphingan exopolysaccharide is between 1.3: 1 and 4: 1;
    the weight ratio of the sphingan exopolysaccharide to the cosmetic active ingredient of salt type is between 0.04: 1 and 0.2: 1.
  13. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or a homogeneous hydrous system.
  14. A non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to any of claims 1 to 13 to the keratin materials.
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