WO2021212267A1 - Composition for caring for the skin - Google Patents
Composition for caring for the skin Download PDFInfo
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- WO2021212267A1 WO2021212267A1 PCT/CN2020/085611 CN2020085611W WO2021212267A1 WO 2021212267 A1 WO2021212267 A1 WO 2021212267A1 CN 2020085611 W CN2020085611 W CN 2020085611W WO 2021212267 A1 WO2021212267 A1 WO 2021212267A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
Definitions
- keratin materials such as the skin suffer from aging due to various factors; and accordingly, the effect of anti-aging can be achieved through various routes.
- the formation of free radicals is a widely accepted pivotal mechanism leading to skin aging.
- the topical application of antioxidants is broadly used in skin care products to prevent skin aging.
- dry condition of skin may accelerate the aging.
- the moisturization of skin may prevent skin aging.
- the improvement of keratinocyte proliferation can prevent skin aging.
- Hyaluronic acid is generally used at very low levels of the order of 0.01 to 0.5%by weight because of its high price and the rather sticky and slippery feel that it gives to compositions comprising them.
- compositions comprising in an aqueous phase a combination of (i) a LMW hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, and (ii) ganoderma lucidum spores polysaccharide (also called as ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide) , preferably in specific amounts, can unexpectedly improve the anti-aging effect by promoting keratinocyte proliferation, which is unknown from prior art.
- a composition comprising in an aqueous phase a combination of (i) a LMW hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, and (ii) ganoderma lucidum spores polysaccharide (also called as ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide) , preferably in specific amounts, can unexpectedly improve the anti-aging effect by promoting keratinocyte proliferation, which is unknown from prior art.
- component (ii) i.e., the ganoderma lucidum spores polysaccharide, is used in an amount of 0.3%-5%, preferably 0.5%-2%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a combination of component (i) aLMW hyaluronic acid and/or a salt thereof, optionally having a molecular weight ranging from 20000 DA to 50000 DA, and component (ii) , Ganoderma Spore Polysaccharide for anti-early ageing by promoting the basal cell proliferation.
- topical application it meant that the composition is applied or spread onto the surface of the keratin materials, such as at least one zone of the skin.
- a numeric range is defined with a lower and an upper limits when needed, such as one or more lower limits and one or more upper limits are given to form a range optionally along with one or more preferred ranges.
- a given range can be defined by selecting a lower limit and an upper limit that define the boundaries of the given range. All ranges defined in this manner are inclusive and combinable, that is, any lower limit can be combined with any upper limit to form a range, as long as the lower and upper limits are provided to modify the same subject. For example, when ranges of 60-110 and 80-120 are listed for a specific subject, it is to be understood that ranges 60-120 and 80-110 are also contemplated and encompassed. Further, if the lower limits listed are 1 and 2 and the upper limits are listed as 3, 4 and 5, the following ranges are all predictable and within the scope of the present disclosure: 1-3, 1-4, 1-5, 2-3, 2-4 and 2-5.
- the hyaluronic acid salts may be chosen from alkali salts such as sodium and potassium salts or other salts, e.g., zinc salts, silver salts, and mixtures thereof.
- the composition according to the invention comprises sodium hyaluronate.
- a low molecular weight (LMW) hyaluronic acid is preferably used according to the present invention.
- the LMW hyaluronic acid useful for the composition according to the invention has a weight average molecular weight of less than or equal to 60000 Daltons, preferably less than or equal to 50000 Daltons, for example from 10,000 Daltons to 60,000 Daltons, preferably 15,000 Daltons to 50,000 Daltons, more particularly 20,000 Daltons to 50,000 Daltons.
- composition according to the invention may further comprise a high molecular weight (HMW) hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof.
- HMW high molecular weight
- the additional polysaccharide of the present invention is chosen from:
- composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion, in particular an O/W emulsion.
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Abstract
A composition comprising the components of: (i) a LMW hyaluronic acid and/or a salt thereof having a molecular weight ranging from 10 KDa to 100 KDa, in an amount of 0.5-2 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition; and (ii) Ganoderma Spore Polysaccharide, in an amount of 0.3-5%wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Description
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition caring for keratin materials, and in particular the skin. Further, the present invention relates to use of same in particular as a skincare product, as well as to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials such as the skin.
It has always been an ultimate goal of the cosmetic filed to deliver products with skin benefits such as hydration, moisturizing, anti-aging, whitening, cleansing, and so on.
It is known that keratin materials such as the skin suffer from aging due to various factors; and accordingly, the effect of anti-aging can be achieved through various routes. For example, the formation of free radicals is a widely accepted pivotal mechanism leading to skin aging. Accordingly, the topical application of antioxidants is broadly used in skin care products to prevent skin aging. Also, dry condition of skin may accelerate the aging. Accordingly, the moisturization of skin may prevent skin aging. Further, it is known that the improvement of keratinocyte proliferation can prevent skin aging.
Now, it is common to incorporate in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions moisturizing agents which are in particular hygroscopic substances that cause rehydration of the skin by capturing atmospheric water and by retention of water in the skin. It is also possible to use glycosaminoglycans (GAG) or mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid or salts thereof to improve the hydration of skin. The currently most frequently used hyaluronic acids are those of macromolecules with a high molecular weight (HMW) between 500 KDa and 2000 KDa, whilst low molecular weight (LMW) hyaluronic acid or derivatives thereof can also be used which, due to its low molecular weight, may exhibit improved efficacy or improved biological action.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is generally used at very low levels of the order of 0.01 to 0.5%by weight because of its high price and the rather sticky and slippery feel that it gives to compositions comprising them.
Due to the achievement of effect of moisturization, it is deemed that the use of HA can benefit anti-aging. However, there is still a need for a composition having improved anti-aging effect.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The inventors have discovered that a composition comprising in an aqueous phase a combination of (i) a LMW hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, and (ii) ganoderma lucidum spores polysaccharide (also called as ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide) , preferably in specific amounts, can unexpectedly improve the anti-aging effect by promoting keratinocyte proliferation, which is unknown from prior art.
According to an embodiment of the invention, component (i) , i.e., the LMW hyaluronic acid, is used in an amount of 0.5%-2%, preferably 0.7%-1.5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to an embodiment of the invention, component (ii) , i.e., the ganoderma lucidum spores polysaccharide, is used in an amount of 0.3%-5%, preferably 0.5%-2%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to an embodiment of the invention, for component (i) , the useful LMW hyaluronic acid has a molecular weight between 10 KDa and 100 KDa, preferably between 20 KDa and 50 KDa.
The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for the care or makeup of keratin materials, in particular skin, e.g., face, comprising the topical application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the present invention.
The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a combination of component (i) aLMW hyaluronic acid and/or a salt thereof, optionally having a molecular weight ranging from 20000 DA to 50000 DA, and component (ii) , Ganoderma Spore Polysaccharide for anti-early ageing by promoting the basal cell proliferation.
DDESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS
Fig. 1 shows percentage of ki67-expressing cells in the epidermal basal layer for Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4.
Fig. 2 shows representative images of immunofluorescence staining on human reconstructed skin for Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4. Ki67 (red/light) and DAPI (blue/dark) .
EMBODIMENTS OF INVENTION
Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one" , unless otherwise mentioned. Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Preferably, the “keratin material” according to the present invention is the skin. By “skin” , we intend all the body skin. Still preferably, the keratin material is the face, or the neck, especially the face.
By “topical application” , it meant that the composition is applied or spread onto the surface of the keratin materials, such as at least one zone of the skin.
In the application, unless specifically mentioned otherwise, contents, parts and percentages are expressed on a weight basis.
In the application, a numeric range is defined with a lower and an upper limits when needed, such as one or more lower limits and one or more upper limits are given to form a range optionally along with one or more preferred ranges. A given range can be defined by selecting a lower limit and an upper limit that define the boundaries of the given range. All ranges defined in this manner are inclusive and combinable, that is, any lower limit can be combined with any upper limit to form a range, as long as the lower and upper limits are provided to modify the same subject. For example, when ranges of 60-110 and 80-120 are listed for a specific subject, it is to be understood that ranges 60-120 and 80-110 are also contemplated and encompassed. Further, if the lower limits listed are 1 and 2 and the upper limits are listed as 3, 4 and 5, the following ranges are all predictable and within the scope of the present disclosure: 1-3, 1-4, 1-5, 2-3, 2-4 and 2-5.
In the application, a reference to “HA” or “hyaluronic acid” generally also apply to a salt thereof, unless otherwise specified or the reference thereof obviously meant the “acid” form.
LMW Hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, component (i)
The composition according to the invention comprises 0.5%-2%by weight, preferably 0.7%-1.5%by weight, of low molecular weight (LMW) hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof relative to the total weight of the composition.
Hyaluronic acid is a non-sulfated linear glycosaminoglycan composed of repeating units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.
The hyaluronic acid salts may be chosen from alkali salts such as sodium and potassium salts or other salts, e.g., zinc salts, silver salts, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises sodium hyaluronate.
A low molecular weight (LMW) hyaluronic acid is preferably used according to the present invention. In particular, the LMW hyaluronic acid useful for the composition according to the invention has a weight average molecular weight of less than or equal to 60000 Daltons, preferably less than or equal to 50000 Daltons, for example from 10,000 Daltons to 60,000 Daltons, preferably 15,000 Daltons to 50,000 Daltons, more particularly 20,000 Daltons to 50,000 Daltons.
Advantageously, the LMW hyaluronic acid and/or a salt thereof is present in an amount greater than or equal to 0.8%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the LMW hyaluronic acid and/or a salt thereof is present in an amount greater than or equal to 1.0%and less than or equal to 5.0%by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, particularly in an amount greater than or equal to 1.0%and less than or equal to 2.0%by weight, more particularly in an amount greater than or equal to 1.0%and less than or equal to 1.5%by weight.
It is known that LMW HA often shows a trans-epidermis property, i.e., penetrating through the whole epidermis. However, the synergistic effect of LMW HA and/or a salt thereof with a ganoderma lucidum spores polysaccharide is substantially unknown in the art.
HMW Hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof
The composition according to the invention may further comprise a high molecular weight (HMW) hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof.
A high molecular weight (HMW) hyaluronic acid has a weight average molecular weight of from 100,000 Daltons to 1,500,000 Daltons, or from 150,000 Daltons to 1,200,000 Daltons.
Advantageously, the HMW hyaluronic acid and/or a salt thereof is present in an amount less than or equal to 0.5%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the HMW hyaluronic acid and/or a salt thereof is present in an amount less than or equal to 0.3%, particularly in an amount less than or equal to . 02%by weight
As mentioned above, it is known that LMW HA often shows a trans-epidermis property, i.e., penetrating through the whole epidermis. As compared, HMW HA may benefit moisturizing skin by forming a water-protection film on top of the skin. Accordingly, it is advantageous to use a mixture of HMW and LMW hyaluronic acids or salts thereof.
Ganoderma lucidum spores polysaccharide, component (ii)
Naturally extracted polysaccharides have been widely used in medicine, food, and cosmetic industries, e.g., starches in foods, Ganoderma polysaccharides and Lentinus edodes polysaccharides in health care products, Tremella polysaccharide in cosmetics, and the like.
Ganoderma is divided into six kinds of Ganoderma, namely Ganoderma Lucidum, black Ganoderma Lucidum, green Ganoderma Lucidum, white Ganoderma Lucidum, yellow Ganoderma Lucidum and Ganoderma sinense.
Amongst others, the inventors have discovered unexpectedly that when Ganoderma lucidum spores polysaccharide is used, as component (ii) , in combination with component (i) , the LMW HA, in particular when components (i) and (ii) are used in specific amounts, the combination can unexpectedly benefit the effect of anti-aging, especially for topical application of a composition comprising the combination to keratin material, e.g., skin.
According to an embodiment, Ganoderma lucidum spores polysaccharide is obtained in the form of “Ganoderma extract” . The Ganoderma extract used in the present invention is a water extract of a mushroom of the genus Ganoderma, including especially extracts obtained with water, hot water or a water-containing solution. At least one Ganoderma extract may be for example a Ganoderma lucidum extract, a Ganoderma atrum extract or a Ganoderma sinense extract. According to one exemplary embodiment, the Ganoderma extract is the extract known under the INCI name Ganoderma Lucidum (Mushroom) Stem Extract, whose CTFA monograph Id is 9731. It may be especially a Ganoderma Lucidum stem extract, such as the one commercialized by Maruzen under the trade name Ganoderma Extract BG
Surfactant
The composition according to the present invention can be provided in a form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion. Accordingly, at least one solubilizer/surfactant is preferably comprised in the aqueous phase. For the purpose of well suspension of the oil phase, the solubilizer is preferably a nonionic surfactant or a mixture thereof.
Examples of the useful nonionic surfactants may comprise esters of polyols and of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e. derivatives containing oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated units, such as the glyceryl esters of C
8-C
24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the polyethylene glycol esters of C
8-C
24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sorbitol esters of C
8-C
24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) esters of C
8-C
24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; the sugar ethers of C
8-C
24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
Glyceryl esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) , glyceryl oleate, or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) , and mixtures thereof.
Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, for instance the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name
165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name
by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) .
Fatty acid esters of glucose or of alkylglucose that may be mentioned in particular include glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates, for instance methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates, for instance methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more especially the diester of methylglucoside and of oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate) ; the mixed ester of methylglucoside and of the oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxysterate) ; the ester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate) ; the ester of methylglucoside and of lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate) ; the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate) ; the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and of stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name
SS by the company Amerchol, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of glucose or of alkylglucose that may be mentioned include the oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methyl glucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) , such as the product sold under the name
E-20 distearate by the company Amerchol; the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name
SSE-20 by the company Amerchol, and the product sold under the name
PSE-20 by the company Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned include sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.
Examples of fatty alcohol ethers that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol or of cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) . Examples that may be mentioned include ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those of CTFA name Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.
Sugar ethers that may especially be mentioned are alkylpolyglucosides, for example decylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name
10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name
2000 by the company Henkel, and the product sold under the name
NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name
CG 110 by the company SEPPIC or under the name
GD 70 by the company BASF; laurylglucoside, for instance the products sold under the names
1200 N and
1200 by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP by the company Henkel; cetostearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name
68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name
CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name
KE3302 by the company Henkel; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name
202 by the company SEPPIC; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, sold under the name
82 by the company SEPPIC; and mixtures thereof.
The at least one nonionic surfactant may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 0.1%to 15%, such as from 0.15%to 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Solvent
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one solvent. In particular, for example, the composition according to the present invention can be provided in a form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase.
The aqueous phase may comprise water and hydrophilic adjuvants (co-solvents, actives and additives) . The water preferably represents at least 50%by weight of the total weight of the composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises water in a content ranging from 55%to 95%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 70%to 90%by weight. and preferably ranging from 50%to 90%by weight.
The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water, for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, i.e. a water compriseing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a spring water.
Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises at least one organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25℃) such as for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols notably having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the mono, di or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, the mono, di or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers; and mixtures thereof.
In a particular embodiment of the invention, the water-miscible polyol at room temperature is present in a content ranging from 1%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 3%to 10%by weight.
Preservative
For use of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least on preservative. The preservative useful according to the present invention can be any one conventionally used for cosmetics, in particular for masks.
For example, preservatives can be used according to the present invention comprise methylchloroisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, derivatives of hydantoin, such as DMDMH, parahydroxybenzoate ester, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid and a salt thereof, such as sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydroxyacetophenone, amino-acid based preservative, sorbitan octanate, glycerol caprylate and the like.
Preferably, the content of the preservative is 0.01-5%, preferably 0.1%-3%, preferably 0.3%-1%, based on the weight of the composition.
Additional Polysaccharide
The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one other polysaccharide in addition to the Ganoderma lucidum spores polysaccharide, which is preferably of biotechnological origin.
In particular, the additional polysaccharide may, where appropriate, be chemically modified to promote its hydrophilic valency, as is the case for cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkylcelluloses (e.g.: hydroxyethylcellulose) .
As examples of polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of:
a) algal extracts such as alginates, carrageenans and agar-agar, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans that may be mentioned include Satiagum
and
from the company Degussa; an alginate that may be mentioned is the sodium alginate sold under the name
by the company ISP;
b) gums, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar) , gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, gum tragacanth, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, agar gum, scleroglucan gums and mixtures thereof; examples that may be mentioned include the xanthan gum sold under the name
CG-T by the company CP Kelco, gellan gum sold under the name
CG LA by the company CP Kelco, guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP
by the company Rhodia; mannan gum and konjac
(1%glucomannan) sold by the company GfN;
c) starches, which are preferably modified, such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from legumes such as white lentil, from tubers such as potato or cassava, tapioca starches; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; Amidon de
from the company Roquette; potato feculent modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure
by the company National Starch; native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca
by the company National Starch;
e) celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkylcelluloses; mention may be made especially of methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. Examples that may be mentioned include the hydroxyethylcellulose sold under the name Natrosol
TM 250 HHR PC by the company Ashland, or under the name Cellosize
TM QP 4400 H by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemical) , cetylhydroxyethylcelluloses sold under the names Polysurf
and Natrosol Plus
from Aqualon;
f) pectins,
g) chitosan and derivatives thereof,
h) polyholosides comprising at least two saccharides, preferably of natural origin, and especially chosen from:
- aldoses such as
- pentoses: ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiose, for example,
- hexoses: glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose, for example,
- ketoses such as fructose,
- deoxyoses, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, cymarose or oleandrose,
- saccharide derivatives such as uronic acids, for instance mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, galacturonic acid or glycuronic acid, or itols, for instance mannitol or sorbitol.
Mention may be made in particular of the polyholosides comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, and for example a linear sequence of α-L-fucose, α-D-galactose and galacturonic acid, for instance the biosaccharide gum-1 sold under the trade name
1000 PP or
1.5P by the company Solabia,
i) anionic polysaccharides, in particular of biotechnological origin, such as anionic polysaccharide bearing as repeating unit a tetrasaccharide composed of L-fucose, D-glucose and glucuronic acid, such as the product bearing the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4 sold under the reference Glycofilm 1.5P by the company Solabia,
j) and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the additional polysaccharide of the present invention is chosen from:
- gums such as xanthan gum, or gellan gum;
- cellulose and its derivatives, such as hydroxyethylcellulose;
- polyholosides comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, for example biosaccharide gum-1.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention comprises from 0.001%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.01%to 2%by weight, more preferably from 0.1%to 1%by weight of the polysaccharides, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additive
In a known manner, the dosage forms dedicated to topical application may also comprise adjuvants which are customary in the cosmetic and/or dermatological field, such as additional hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, additional emulsifiers, additional hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, other preservatives, antioxidants, other solvents, fragrances, fillers, filters, pH adjusters, odor absorbers and dyes. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20%of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the aqueous phase or into the oil phase in case of emulsion.
These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the desired property for the composition of the invention.
The composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion, in particular an O/W emulsion.
EXAMPLES
The following examples of compositions according to the invention are given by way of illustration and without limitation. The compounds are indicated in chemical name or INCI name.
The ingredient amounts/concentrations in the compositions/formulas described below are expressed in %by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition/formula, unless otherwise indicated.
Materials:
LMW Sodium hyaluronate: LOW MOLECULAR WEIGHT SODIUM HYALURONATE (HA-TLM) from BLOOMAGE FREDA BIOPHARM, having a molecular weight of 20000 Da-50000 Da.
Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4
Table 1: Example 1 According to the Invention and Comparative Examples 1-4;
Evaluation
Method:
Asian reconstructed full thickness skin models were treated systematically with Ganoderma Polysaccharide alone at 0.1%or 0.5%or in combination with 1%HA topical application from day15-20, as showed in Table 1 above. At day 20, skin models were fixed with 2%paraformaldehyde, cryosectioned at 7μm, blocked with 0.2%bovine serum albumin, stained with ki67 antibody then counter stained with DAPI. Stained sections were viewed and imaged using fluorescence microscope (Ti-S, NIKON, Tokyo, Japan) . Total of 3 independent experiments were carried out, the number of ki67 stained cells were counted and normalized to control group to have corresponding expression ratio, the error bar represents the standard deviation for each treatment.
Results:
Ki67 is a specific marker for cell proliferation. The higher percentage of ki67 positive cells indicates the higher percentage of proliferating cells.
Full thickness skin model treated with 0.1%of Ganoderma Polysaccharide showed an increase trend in proliferating basal cells although not significant. Combination of Ganoderma Polysaccharide and HA at two concentrations stimulated the growth of basal keratinocytes. 0.1%ganoderma polysaccharide and HA slightly improved the growth while 0.5%ganoderma polysaccharide and HA significantly promoted the basal cell proliferation (Figures 1 and 2) .
In summary, 0.1%Ganoderma Polysaccharide exerted a positive effect on basal cell proliferation although statistically not significant. Combination of Ganoderma Polysaccharide and Sodium Hyaluronate promoted significant growth of keratinocytes as compare to the medium negative control group. In addition, two raw materials given at high concentration appear to be more superior than Ganoderma Polysaccharide alone, indicating its beneficial anti-early ageing effect.
Example 2
Table 2: Example 2 According to the Invention
A panel of 5 experts applied the composition prepared from Example 2 on their skin, and evaluated the feeling after application. It was determined by the experts that the composition brought excellent skin sensory and moisturization, and showed good stability.
Claims (14)
- A composition comprising the components of:(i) a LMW hyaluronic acid and/or a salt thereof having a molecular weight ranging from 10 KDa to 100 KDa, in an amount of 0.5-2 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition; and(ii) Ganoderma Spore Polysaccharide, in an amount of 0.3-5%wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- The composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the component (i) is present in an amount of 0.7%-1.5%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the component (ii) is present in an amount of 0.5%-2%, based on the total weight of the composition.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the LMW hyaluronic acid has a molecular weight ranging from 20 KDa to 50 KDa
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in further comprising a HMW hyaluronic acid and/or a salt thereof, which has a weight average molecular weight of from 100,000 Daltons to 1,500,000 Daltons, or from 150,000 Daltons to 1,200,000 Daltons, preferably in an amount less than or equal to 0.5%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in further comprising a surfactant, preferably a nonionic surfactant, in an amount from 0.1%to 15%, such as from 0.15%to 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of esters of polyols and of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e. derivatives containing oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated units, such as the glyceryl esters of C 8-C 24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the polyethylene glycol esters of C 8-C 24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sorbitol esters of C 8-C 24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) esters of C 8-C 24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; the sugar ethers of C 8-C 24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one solvent, preferably water and at least one organic solvent miscible with water.
- The composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the organic solvent is selected from the group consisting of monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; polyols notably having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; glycol ethers, having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in further comprising an additional polysaccharide other than the Ganoderma lucidum spores polysaccharide, preferably in an amount of 0.001%to 5%by weight, more preferably from 0.1%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the additional polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of a) algal extracts; b) gums, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof, gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, gum tragacanth, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, agar gum, scleroglucan gums; c) starches; d) dextrins; e) celluloses; f) pectins; g) chitosan; h) polyholosides comprising at least two saccharides; i) anionic polysaccharides; or a mixture thereof.
- A cosmetic product comprising the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.
- Use of a product comprising a combination of component (I) a LMW hyaluronic acid and/or a salt thereof, optionally having a molecular weight ranging from 20000 DA to 50000 DA, and component (II) , Ganoderma Spore Polysaccharide for anti-early ageing by promoting the basal cell proliferation.
- The use according to claim 10, characterized in that the product is as defined in claim 12.
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PCT/CN2020/085611 WO2021212267A1 (en) | 2020-04-20 | 2020-04-20 | Composition for caring for the skin |
CN202080100008.9A CN115884744A (en) | 2020-04-20 | 2020-04-20 | Composition for caring skin |
FR2005329A FR3110413B1 (en) | 2020-04-20 | 2020-05-20 | SKIN CARE COMPOSITION |
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- 2020-04-20 CN CN202080100008.9A patent/CN115884744A/en active Pending
- 2020-04-20 WO PCT/CN2020/085611 patent/WO2021212267A1/en active Application Filing
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CN115884744A (en) | 2023-03-31 |
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