WO2022178847A1

WO2022178847A1 - Composition for conditioning keratin material

Info

Publication number: WO2022178847A1
Application number: PCT/CN2021/078211
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yu Huang; Lingling Sun
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2021-02-26
Filing date: 2021-02-26
Publication date: 2022-09-01
Also published as: CN116940325A; FR3120193A1

Abstract

Provided herein is a composition for conditioning skin, comprising the components of: A) at least one hydroxyl-containing acid, selected from the group consisting of α-hydroxyl acid, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, and salicylic acid, or a precursor thereof, which α-hydroxyl acid is preferably a lower acid having 2-12 carbon atoms, preferably 2-8 carbon atoms, or 2-6 carbon atoms; B) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of fatty acid ester of polyglycerol or fatty acid ether of polyglycerol; and C) at least one additional surfactant other than component B).

Description

Composition for Conditioning Keratin Material

Technical field

The present invention relates to a composition for conditioning skin, in particular the stratum corneum. The invention also relates to a process for conditioning skin, in particular the stratum corneum, using the composition of the present invention.

Background

Skin are present widely on surface of human bodies. Many people have for a long time sought to fresh the body surface, so as to feel comfortable in daily life and work. It has always been an ultimate target of the cosmetic filed to deliver products with skin benefits such as hydration, moisturizing, anti-aging, whitening, cleansing, slippery feeling and so on.

It is known that keratin materials such as the skin suffer from aging due to various factors; and accordingly, the effect of anti-aging can be achieved through various routes. For example, stratum corneum (SC) is the outermost layer of epidermis. Facilitating the turnover of SC can make the skin more smooth and bright, and the fine line or wrinkle on skin will be less noticeable.

Alpha Hydroxyl Acid (AHA) is a representative exfoliating ingredient. Acid can be functional on unlock the SC cell desmosomes which is a key part for cells connection. Specifically, acid helps to remove the connection structure between the keratin in the stratum corneum, and shows a gentle melting effect of the keratin. However, it is also known that AHAs, e.g., glycolic acid, may still be irritative for the skin.

There is thus still needed in the art to develop new compositions for conditioning skin, especially for the purpose of anti-aging by facilitating SC turnover.

Summary of the invention

By deep study, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that by using specifically combination of at least two surfactants, especially at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol or fatty acid ether of polyglycerol, the SC desquamation and turnover by AHA can be facilitated.

Thus, one subject of the present invention is thus a leave-on composition for conditioning skin, comprising:

at least one hydroxyl-containing acid, such asα-hydroxyl acid, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, and salicylic acid, or a precursor thereof;

at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of fatty acid ester of polyglycerol; and

at least another surfactant.

The composition according to the present invention is particularly useful for conditioning skin, in particular the stratum corneum. Accordingly, the composition of the present invention can be in various form, in particular solution, such as lotion, spray and the like to be applied to scalp directly to skin.

Embodiments of the invention

Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one" , unless otherwise mentioned. Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

Throughout the description, including the claims, an embodiment defined with “comprising” or the like should be understood to encompass a preferable embodiment defined with “consisting substantially of” and a preferable embodiment defined with “consisting of” .

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of components and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about" , with conventionally known meaning in the art, e.g., within 10%of the indicated number (such as "about 10%" means 9%-11 %and "about 2%" means 1.8%-2.2%) .

In the application, unless specifically mentioned otherwise, contents, parts and percentages are expressed on a weight basis.

The present invention is directed to an aqueous composition for conditioning skin, comprising the components of:

A) at least one hydroxyl-containing acid, such as α-hydroxyl acid, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, and salicylic acid, or a precursor thereof;

B) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of fatty acid ester of polyglycerol or fatty acid ether of polyglycerol; and

C) at least one additional surfactant other than component B) .

The present invention thus provides use of combination of at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol or fatty acid ether of polyglycerol of component B) and another surfactant of component C) for enhancing the performance of a hydroxyl-containing acid while avoiding or reducing the irritation suffered by skin, especially that caused by acids and/or by a conventional surfactant.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

Component A) , hydroxyl-containing acid

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydroxyl-containing acid as component A) .

According to the present invention, the hydroxyl-containing acid can be particularly anα-hydroxyl acid. The term “α-hydroxyl acid” is understood to mean, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying anα-position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group) . This acid is preferably present in the final composition in the form of the free acid and.

The α-hydroxyl acids (α-hydroxyl acid) include, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid and their mixtures. It is also possible to use mixtures of these various acids.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, the α-hydroxyl acid is preferably a lower acid having 2-12 carbon atoms, preferably 2-8 carbon atoms, or 2-6 carbon atoms.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, the α-hydroxyl acid is preferably a mono-carboxylic acid.

Examples of the hydroxyl-containing acid may comprise glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid; gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, tartaric acid and salicylic acid.

According to a special embodiment of the invention, a precursor of a hydroxyl-containing acid can also be used for component A) . According to the present invention, a “precursor” means one capable of being converted into a hydroxyl-containing acid useful for the invention, e.g., through hydrolysis. The example of such a precursor can be particularly made to glucosactone. For the purpose of the invention, especially considering the composition according to the present invention being aqueous, such a precursor can be deemed as belonging to the conception of “hydroxyl-containing acid” .

According to a preferable embodiment of the present invention, the α-hydroxyl acid is a lower mono-carboxylic acid having 2-6 carbon atoms, such as lactic acid, gluconic acid, or glycolic acid.

The component A) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 15%by weight, or from 0.01 to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Component B) , nonionic surfactant

The composition according to the present invention may preferably comprise at least one nonionic surfactant, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of fatty acid ester of polyglycerol or fatty acid ether of polyglycerol.

As component B) of the composition according to the invention, mono-or poly-glycerolated surfactants may be used, which preferably comprise on average from 1 to 30 glycerol groups, more particularly from 1 to 10 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 5.

The monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated surfactants are preferably chosen from the compounds of the following formulae:

R"O [CH ₂CH (CH ₂OH) O] _mH,

R"O [CH ₂CH (OH) CH ₂O] _mH or

R"O [CH (CH ₂OH) CH ₂O] _mH;

in which formulae:

●R" represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms; m is an integer between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 and 10 and more particularly from 1.5 to 6; R" may optionally comprise heteroatoms, for instance oxygen and nitrogen. In particular, R" may optionally comprise one or more hydroxyl and/or ether and/or amide groups. R" preferably denotes mono-or polyhydroxylated C ₁₀-C ₂₀ alkyl, and/or alkenyl radicals.

Use may be made, for example, of the polyglycerolated (3.5 mol) hydroxylauryl ether sold under the name

NF from Chimex.

The (poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohols that are suitable for performing the invention are chosen more particularly from alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

The (poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohols more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The (poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohol (s) preferably have the following formula (XII) :

with

- R ₃ representing a linear or branched C ₈-C ₄₀ alkyl or alkenyl group and preferably C ₈-C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and

- c is an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferably between 2 and 50 and more particularly between 8 and 30, such as 20.

According to an embodiment of the invention, the composition may comprise at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol for use as a nonionic surfactant.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is chosen from esters resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and of at least one fatty acid containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, or from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acids containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.

The fatty acids may be chosen from oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid and caprylic acid, or mixtures thereof.

The fatty acid esters of polyglycerol can be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. Use is preferably made of esters with a low degree of esterification, for instance fatty acid monoesters, diesters or triesters of polyglycerol, or a mixture. The fatty acid ester of polyglycerol can be in the form of a mixture of esters with a low degree of esterification, for instance a mixture of monoester and diester or a mixture of monoester, diester and triester.

Mention may in particular be made of polyglyceryl-2 distearate, in particular as sold by NIHON EMULSION under the name Emalex PGSA; polyglyceryl-10 decastearate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-1810S; polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft A-186E; polyglyceryl-2 laurate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-12D; polyglyceryl-5 laurate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft A-121E-C; polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-175S; polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-185S; polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, in particular as sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name Isolan GI 34; diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, in particular as sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name Isolan PDI; polyglyceryl-2 oleate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-17B; polyglyceryl-5 trimyristate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft A-143E; polyglyceryl-2 caprylate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-81B; polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name SUNSOFT Q-102H-C/.

The component B) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 20%, or from 0.5%to 10%, or from 1%to 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Component C) , additional surfactant

For the purpose of the invention, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one additional surfactant, as component C) , other than that used for component B) . According to an embodiment of the invention, the component C) can comprise component C-1) , which is at least one amphoteric surfactant; component C-2) , which is at least one anionic surfactant; and/or component C-3) , which is at least one additional nonionic surfactant other than that used for component B) .

Without being restricted by any known theory, it is believed that the concurrent use of components B) and C) in combination can facilitate the function of component A) on skin, e.g., the dissolution of intercellular lipid component. In particular, the concurrent use of components B) and C) together with component A) can make the lipid more disorganized and fluidity, can generate synergy to facilitate efficacy on SC desquamation and turnover, while can relatively decrease the irritation possibly caused by conventional surfactants.

Component C-1) , amphoteric surfactant

According to an embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant as component C-1) , which may also be called as zwitterionic surfactant.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the present invention may be quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and in which the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (III) and (IV) below:

in which formula (III) :

●R ₄ represents a C ₁₀-C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R ₄-C (O) -OH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

●R ₅ represents aβ-hydroxyethyl group; and

●R ₆ represents a carboxymethyl group;

and

wherein:

●A represents-CH ₂CH ₂OX';

●A' represents- (CH ₂) z-Y', with z=1 or 2;

●X' represents the group -CH ₂-C (O) -OH, -CH ₂-C (O) -OZ', -CH ₂CH ₂-C (O) -OH, -CH ₂-CH ₂-C (O) -OZ', or a hydrogen atom;

●Y' represents –C (O) -OH, –C (O) -OZ' or the group -CH ₂-CH (OH) -SO ₃H or -CH ₂-CH (OH) -SO ₃Z';

●Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and in particular from an aminoalcohol, such as mono-, di-and triethanolamine, mono-, di-or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane.

●R ₇ represents a C ₁₀-C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R ₇C (O) -OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially of C ₁₇ and its iso form, or an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

By way of example, mention may be made of the N-cocoylamidocarboxymethyl glycinate of an alkali metal such as sodium, or cocoamphodiacetate sold for example by the company Rhodia under the trade name

C2M concentrate.

Mention may be made in particular of a betaine surfactant, e.g., (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈-C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂-C ₈ alkyl) betaines and (C ₈–C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂-C ₈ alkyl) sulfobetaines.

Among all the amphoteric surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of cocoylamidopropylbetaine, cocoylbetaine and the N-cocoylamidocarboxymethyl glycinate of an alkali metal such as sodium.

According to one specific embodiment of the present invention, the amphoteric surfactant mentioned above is cocoylamidopropylbetaine or cocoylbetaine.

Component C-2) , anionic surfactant

According to an embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant, for use as component C-2) .

The term “anionic surfactant” is understood to mean an amphiphilic compound with a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic part wherein the hydrophilic part carries as ionic or ionisable group only anionic group with a cationic counterion which is generally metallic (alkali metal, such as Na or K) or ammonium, capable of dissociating to give anions in aqueous solution.

More particularly the anionic group of the anionic surfactant is belonging to the group chosen from: C (O) OH, –C (O) O ^-, -SO ₃H, -S (O) ₂O ^-, -OS (O) ₂OH, -OS (O) ₂O ^-, -P (O) OH ₂, -P (O) ₂O ^-, -P (O) O ₂ ^-, -P (OH) ₂, =P (O) OH, -P (OH) O ^-, =P (O) O ^-, =POH, =PO ^-, the cationic counter anion being usually selected from alkali metal such as sodium, or alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, or organic cationic counter anion such as ammonium salts, amine salts, or aminoalcohol salts. The surfactants may also occur in their acid forms.

Mention may be made, as anionic surfactants, of surfactants comprising carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, sulfoacetate, sulfosuccinate, phosphate, isethionate, sarcosinate, glutamate, lactylate or taurate anionic groups, salts of fatty acids, salts of galactosiduronic acids, salts of ether carboxylic acids surfactants and their mixtures.

More particularly, the anionic surfactant according to the invention is chosen from:

● (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkyl sulfates, (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkyl ether sulfates, (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates or monoglyceride sulfates; preferably for this type of anionic surfactants, (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkyl ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, or a mixture is used. Mentions may be made of sulfate of ether of lauryl alcohol and alkylene oxide, containing from 1 to 50 alkylene oxide groups.

● (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkyl sulfonates, (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkylamidesulfonates, (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates;

● (C ₆-C ₃₀) akyl phosphates;

● (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkyl ether sulfosuccinates or (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkylamido sulfosuccinates;

● (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkyl sulfoacetates;

● (C ₆-C ₂₄) acylsarcosinates;

● (C ₆-C ₂₄) acylglutamates;

● (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic ethers;

● (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates;

● (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkyl sulfosuccinamates;

● (C ₆-C ₂₄) acyl isethionates, for example sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isthionate; mentiones may be made of the sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate which is sold under the trade name

LQ-CLR-SB by the company Innospec Active Chemicals;

● N- [ (C ₆-C ₂₄) acyl] taurates;

● salts of fatty acids;

● (C ₈-C ₂₀) acyl lactylates;

● salts of (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkyl-D-galactosiduronic acids;

● salts of (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkyl polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acids, of (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkylaryl polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acids or of (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkylamido polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acids;

● and their mixtures.

The alkyl or acyl radicals of these various anionic surfactants preferably comprise from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

Furthermore, the oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated anionic surfactants preferably comprise from 1 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, more preferably from 1 to 4 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, the anionic surfactant is preferably chosen from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, or a mixture thereof.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, the anionic surfactant is sodium laureth sulfate containing in average 2.2 ethylene oxide groups.

According to an especially exemplary embodiment of the present invention, the composition may be free of any sulfate to be used as the anionic surfactant. For example, the anionic surfactant may be a taurate, e.g., sodium methyl stearoyl taurate.

Component C-3) , additional nonionic surfactant

According to an embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one additional nonionic surfactant other than that used for component B) , for use as component C-3) .

Examples of the useful additional nonionic surfactants may comprise esters of polyols and of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e. derivatives containing oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated units, e.g., oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the polyethylene glycol esters of C ₈-C ₂₄ fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sorbitol esters of C ₈-C ₂₄ fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) esters of C ₈-C ₂₄ fatty acids (fatty acid esters of glucose or of alkylglucose) , and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; the sugar ethers of C ₈-C ₂₄ fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty acid esters of glucose or of alkylglucose that may be mentioned in particular include glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates, for instance methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates, for instance methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more especially the diester of methylglucoside and of oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate) ; the mixed ester of methylglucoside and of the oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxysterate) ; the ester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate) ; the ester of methylglucoside and of lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate) ; the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate) ; the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and of stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name

SS by the company Amerchol, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of glucose or of alkylglucose that may be mentioned include the oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methyl glucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) , such as the product sold under the name

E-20 distearate by the company Amerchol; the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name

SSE-20 by the company Amerchol, and the product sold under the name

PSE-20 by the company Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned include sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.

Examples of fatty alcohol ethers that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol or of cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) . Examples that may be mentioned include ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those of CTFA name Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.

Sugar ethers that may especially be mentioned are alkylpolyglucosides, for example decylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name

10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name

2000 by the company Henkel, and the product sold under the name

NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name

CG 110 by the company SEPPIC or under the name

GD 70 by the company BASF; laurylglucoside, for instance the products sold under the names

1200 N and

1200 by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP by the company Henkel; cetostearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name

68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name

CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name

KE3302 by the company Henkel; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name

202 by the company SEPPIC; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, sold under the name

82 by the company SEPPIC; and mixtures thereof.

PEG modified ester can also be used, such as PEG-7 Olivate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-80 Glyceryl Cocoate.

Polysorbate series, such as Polysorbate 20, 21, 60, 61 and 80, or glyceride compounds, such as caprylic glyceride (also called as monocaprylin) , capric glyceride (also called as monocaprin) , and lauric glyceride (also called as monolaurin) , e.g., PEG-6 caprylic/capric glyceride, may be additionally mentioned as examples of useful additional nonionic surfactants.

For the purpose of the invention, the at least one additional nonionic surfactant can itself serve as a solubilizer, so as to facilitate the dissolution or dispersion of the components in the aqueous composition.

The component C) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a total amount ranging from 0.1%to 20%, such as from 0.5%to 10%, or from 1%to 5%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Medium/solvent

The composition according to the invention can advantageously comprise at least one medium/solvent, for use as component D) , including water and/or organic medium/solvent.

Water

The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise water in various amounts. For low viscosity applications of the composition, e.g., in form of leave-on lotion, a relatively high amount of water may be used. For example, water is used in a content of greater than or equal to 40%by weight relative to the total weight of composition. The water content in the low viscosity composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 40%to 99%by weight, more preferably from 50%to 90%by weight, or from 60%to 80%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Organic medium/solvent

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic medium/solvents, preferably water-soluble organic medium/solvents (solubility of greater than or equal to 5%in water at 25℃ and at atmospheric pressure) .

Examples of the organic medium/solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched, and preferably saturated, monoalcohols or diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, (iso) propanol, butanol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol) , neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1, 5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as phenylethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, in particular C3-C6 polyols, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, especially C ₁-C ₄ alkyl ethers, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.

The organic medium/solvents, when they are present in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 40%by weight, preferably from 1%to 30%by weight, or from 5%to 20%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

Preservative

For use of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise a preservative. The preservative useful according to the present invention can be any one conventionally used for cosmetics, in particular for ampoule products.

For example, preservatives can be used according to the present invention comprise methylchloroisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, derivatives of hydantoin, such as DMDMH, parahydroxybenzoate ester, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid and a derivative thereof, e.g., a salt thereof, such as sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydroxyacetophenone, amino-acid based preservative, sorbitan octanate, glycerol caprylate and the like, or salicylic acid.

The preservative can be present according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.01%to 3%, or from 0.01%to 1%, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.

Chelating agents

According to one particularly advantageous embodiment, the composition may comprise a chelating agent. Such chelating agents are defined and described in particular in the article "Chelating agents" Kirk Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Vol. 5 pp. 708-739, published in 2003.

As mentioned in that article, the examples of a chelating agent are made to polyphosphates, aminocarboxylic acids, 1, 3-diketones, hydroxycarboxylic acids, polyamines, amino alcohols, heterocyclic aromatic bases, aminophenols, Schiff's bases, tetrapyrroles, sulfur compounds, synthetic macrocyclic compounds, polymers and phosphonic acids.

For the purpose of the present invention, useful chelating agents can comprise elhylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) , aminotriacetic acid, diethylene triaminepentaacetic acid, and a salt thereof, e.g., N, N-bis (carboxymethyl) glutamic acid, disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium salt of N, N-bis (carboxymethyl) glutamic acid (glutamic acid diacetic acid, GLDA) ; hydroxyl carboxylic acids, e.g., citric acid, tartaric acid, glucuronic acid, succinic acid, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) , and a salt thereof; hydroxyl aminocarboxylic acids, e.g., hydroxyethylethylenediamine triacetic acid (HEDTA) , dihydroxyethylglycine (DEG) , and a salt thereof; polyphosphonic acid, and a salt thereof; other phosphor-containing organic acid, e.g., phytic acid, and a salt thereof, e.g., sodium phytate, potassium phytate polycarboxylic acid, e.g., polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, and a salt thereof.

These agents are particularly useful for reducing the electrostatic bonding associated with substantial presence of water in the intermediate makeup and/or care composition according to the invention. To do this, the addition of a sequestrant or of a complexing agent, for instance disodium/tetrasodium EDTA, makes it possible to complex the free ions, and more specifically the cations of the type Ca ²⁺ (mineral fillers) especially present in the nacres and fillers. Consequently, when EDTA complexes these ions, the ionic strength of the water decreases. Preferably, this agent is chosen from aminocarboxylic acids, and is preferably EDTA or a derivative thereof.

For example, a useful chelating agent is chosen from sodium citrate, disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium GLDA, trisodium EDDS, phytic acid, sodium phytate, potassium phytate, and mixtures thereof.

According to the present invention, the chelating agent can be present in the composition from 0.001%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.01%to 0.1%by weight, or preferably from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

Polysaccharide

The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one polysaccharide, which is preferably of biotechnological origin.

In particular, these polysaccharides may, where appropriate, be chemically modified to promote its hydrophilic valency, as is the case for cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkylcelluloses (e.g.: hydroxyethylcellulose) .

As examples of polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of:

a) algal extracts such as alginates, carrageenans and agar-agar, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans that may be mentioned include Satiagum

and

from the company Degussa; an alginate that may be mentioned is the sodium alginate sold under the name

by the company ISP;

b) gums, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar) , gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, gum tragacanth, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, agar gum, scleroglucan gums and mixtures thereof; examples that may be mentioned include the xanthan gum sold under the name

CG-T by the company CP Kelco, gellan gum sold under the name

CG LA by the company CP Kelco, guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP

by the company Rhodia; mannan gum and konjac

(1%glucomannan) sold by the company GfN;

c) starches, which are preferably modified, such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from legumes such as white lentil, from tubers such as potato or cassava, tapioca starches; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; Amidon de

from the company Roquette; potato feculent modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure

by the company National Starch; native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca

by the company National Starch;

d) dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from corn under the name

from the company National Starch;

e) celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkylcelluloses; mention may be made especially of methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. Examples that may be mentioned include the hydroxyethylcellulose sold under the name Natrosol ^TM 250 HHR PC by the company Ashland, or under the name Cellosize ^TM QP 4400 H by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemical) , cetylhydroxyethylcelluloses sold under the names Polysurf

and Natrosol Plus

from Aqualon;

f) pectins,

g) chitosan and derivatives thereof,

h) polyholosides comprising at least two saccharides, preferably of natural origin, and especially chosen from:

- aldoses such as

- pentoses: ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiose, for example,

- hexoses: glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose, for example,

- ketoses such as fructose,

- deoxyoses, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, cymarose or oleandrose,

- saccharide derivatives such as uronic acids, for instance mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, galacturonic acid or glycuronic acid, or itols, for instance mannitol or sorbitol.

Mention may be made in particular of the polyholosides comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, and for example a linear sequence of α-L-fucose, α-D-galactose and galacturonic acid, for instance the biosaccharide gum-1 sold under the trade name

1000 PP or

1.5P by the company Solabia,

i) anionic polysaccharides, in particular of biotechnological origin, such as anionic polysaccharide bearing as repeating unit a tetrasaccharide composed of L-fucose, D-glucose and glucuronic acid, such as the product bearing the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4 sold under the reference Glycofilm 1.5P by the company Solabia,

j) and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the polysaccharide of the present invention is chosen from:

- gums such as xanthan gum, or gellan gum;

- cellulose and its derivatives, for example hydroxyethylcellulose;

- polyholosides comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, for example biosaccharide gum-1.

According to an embodiment, the polysaccharide, such as According to an embodiment, can also serve as a gelling agent for the composition of the present invention.

According to an embodiment, the polysaccharide can be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.0001%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.001%to 2%by weight, more preferably from 0.005%to 1%by weight of the polysaccharides, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional active ingredient

The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more additional active ingredients, in particular cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical.

In the context of the present invention, an additional active ingredient is an active ingredient other than polydatin or resveratrol present in the composition and the other active agents specifically defined above.

Advantageously, such additional active ingredient, cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical, may be intended to exert a cosmetic, care or hygiene effect on keratin materials such as skin, including face, hair, eyelashes, scalp and/or leather hairy, and preferentially on the skin.

The choice of this additional active ingredient is of course conditioned by the effect sought jointly by the composition in question.

Thus, a composition according to the invention may further comprise an active ingredient having an anti-aging activity, or a hydration activity.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional active ingredient (s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the proposed addition.

These additional active ingredients are generally present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.0001%to 20%by weight and preferably from 0.01%to 10%by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Additives

According to various embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are provided for application to skin. In accordance with these embodiments, the compositions of the present invention can comprise various ingredients conventionally useful in compositions for conditioning skin, such as, humectants, fatty substances, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing loss and/or for promoting regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestrants, plasticizers, acidifying agents, opacifiers, pearlescent or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxyacids, fragrances and preserving agents.

A non-exhaustive listing of such ingredients can be found in U.S. patent application publication no. 2004/0170586, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference. Still further examples of such additional ingredients may be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9 ^th ed. 2002) .

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

These additives may be selected variously by the person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties, for example, consistency or texture. In particular, the additives, if used, and the amounts thereof are particularly determined according to the specific products/applications thereof, e.g., leave-on conditioner, rinse-off conditioner, skincare conditioner and the like.

These additives may be present in the composition in an amount from 0.01%to 50%relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

Method and use

The composition according to the present invention can be generally prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Nevertheless, it is to be understood that a person skilled in the art can choose the method of preparation, on the basis of his/her general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the constituents used, for example, their solubility in the vehicle, and the application envisaged for the compositions or the kit.

According to an embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can be used for caring for skin. This use may manifest itself as a process for caring for skin, comprising the step applying to said skin the composition of the invention.

The composition according to the present invention is preferably useful to formulate skincare products. Also, according to the detailed discussions above, it is to be understood that the composition according to the present invention may be free of silicone oil.

The present invention thus provides use of surfactant combination of at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol or fatty acid ether of polyglycerol according to component B) and another surfactant, e.g., one or more according to component C) , for enhancing the performance of a hydroxyl-containing acid while avoiding or reducing the irritation suffered by skin, especially that caused by acid components and/or by a conventional surfactant brought by any cosmetic and/or therapeutic composition. For example, the surfactant combination can be mixed with the cosmetic and/or therapeutic composition comprising an irritative acid before application; or the surfactant combination can be applied to skin prior to or after application of the cosmetic and/or therapeutic composition comprising an irritative acid.

The invention will be further illustrated by the following examples, which set forth particularly advantageous embodiments.

Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the present invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope as a result.

Examples

The ingredient amounts/concentrations in the compositions/formulas described below were expressed in %by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition/formula.

Material:

LACTIC ACID: LACTIC ACID 90, available from MUSASHINOCHEMICAL LABORATORY;

PEG-7GLYCERYL COCOATE: CETIOL HE, available from BASF;

POLYGLYCERYL-5 LAURATE: SUNSOFT A-121E-C, available from TAIYO KAGAKU; and

other materials without specification here were each commercially available.

EXAMPLE I, PREPARATION OF COMPOSITIONS

Compositions were prepared according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3 as in Table 1 below:

Table 1

The above listed compositions were prepared according to known manufacturing method of field. Briefly, the procedure of preparing the compositions comprised the steps of:

1) . dissolving lactic acid, salicylic acid, and glycerin in hot water at a temperature of70℃, mix until totally dissolved;

2) . adding xanthan gum and mixing until no lump observed, then cooling down to room temperature; and

3) . adding the other components one by one in arbitrary sequence.

EXAMPLE II

The effect of the compositions on the cell viability were determined, comprising the steps of: applying effective amount the compositions on reconstructed skin model, standing, and then making statistic of the viable cell amount. The more viability meant the more comfort level.

Also, the efficacy of the compositions was tested by a 60 person panel, with the protocol of:

- 60 Chinese females, 22-45 year old, all skin type, self-declare rough and dull skin, lack of radiance, medium to dark skin with fine lines/wrinkles under eye area;

- Time to test: Week 0, Week 2, Week 3;

- Method of scoring: scoring the skin smooth at every "time to test" using dermatologist grade known in the art.

The sebum migration results were provided as follows:

Table 2

Claims

A composition for conditioning skin, comprising the components of:

A) at least one hydroxyl-containing acid, selected from the group consisting of α-hydroxyl acid, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, and salicylic acid, or a precursor thereof, which α-hydroxyl acid is preferably a lower acid having 2-12 carbon atoms, or 2-8 carbon atoms, or 2-6 carbon atoms;

B) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of fatty acid ester of polyglycerol or fatty acid ether of polyglycerol; and

C) at least one additional surfactant other than component B) .
The composition according to claim 1, wherein the component A) is a mono-carboxylic acid.
The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the component A) comprises glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and salicylic acid, preferably lactic acid, gluconic acid, or glycolic acid.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component A) is present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 15%by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10%by weight, or from 0.1 to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component B) is selected from the group consisting of esters resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and of at least one fatty acid containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, or from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component B) is present in the composition in an amount from 0.1%to 20%, preferably from 0.5%to 10%, or from 1%to 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component C) comprises component C-1) , at least one amphoteric surfactant, which is selected from the group consisting of (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈-C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂-C ₈ alkyl) betaines and (C ₈–C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂-C ₈ alkyl) sulfobetaines.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component C) comprises component C-2) , at least one anionic surfactant, which is selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, of surfactants comprising carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, sulfoacetate, sulfosuccinate, phosphate, isethionate, sarcosinate, glutamate, lactylate or taurate anionic groups, salts of fatty acids, salts of galactosiduronic acids, salts of ether carboxylic acids surfactants and their mixtures.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component C) comprises component C-3) , at least one additional nonionic surfactant other than that used for component B) , which is selected from the group consisting of fatty acid esters of glucose or of alkylglucose, oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of glucose or of alkylglucose, sugar ethers, PEG modified ester, Polysorbate series, and glyceride compounds; such as cocoglucoside, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-80 Glyceryl Cocoate, Polysorbate 20 or 21, caprylic glyceride, capric glyceride, lauric glyceride, or PEG-6 caprylic/capric glyceride.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component C) is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 20%, preferably from 0.5%to 10%, or from 1%to 5%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition..
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one chelating agent selected from the group consisting of sodium citrate, disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium GLDA, trisodium EDDS, phytic acid, sodium phytate, potassium phytate, and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to claim 11, wherein the chelating agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.001%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.01%to 0.1%by weight, or preferably from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one polysaccharide, which is selected from the group consisting of gums such as xanthan gum, or gellan gum; cellulose and its derivatives, for example hydroxyethylcellulose; polyholosides comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, for example biosaccharide gum-1.
The composition according to claim 13, wherein the polysaccharide is present in an amount ranging from 0.0001%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.001%to 2%by weight, or from 0.005%to 1%by weight of the polysaccharides, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Use of a surfactant combination of component B) , at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol or fatty acid ether of polyglycerol, and component C) selected from the group consisting of:

C-1) at least one amphoteric surfactant;

C-2) at least one anionic surfactant; and

C-3) at least one additional nonionic surfactant other than that used for component B) ;

for avoiding or reducing the irritation suffered by skin, especially that caused by acid components brought by any cosmetic and/or therapeutic composition.