EP2241306A2 - Compound with antioxidant peptides - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition, comprises: at least one peptide containing 3-16 amino acids, and exhibiting at least one positive net charge (at pH 7.2) and at least two amino acids with aromatic side chains, in which at least one amino acid is tyrosine, 2'-methyltyrosine, 6'-methyltyrosine, 2',6'-dimethyltyrosine (Dmt), N,2',6'-trimethyltyrosine or 2'-hydroxy-6'-methyltryrosine; and water (0.001-95 wt.%). ACTIVITY : Dermatological. No biological data given. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one peptide selected from peptides having a length of three to sixteen amino acids and having at least one net positive charge (at pH 7.2) and having at least two aromatic side-chain amino acids at least one amino acid is selected from Tyr, 2'-methyl tyrosine, 6'-methyl tyrosine, 2 ', 6'-dimethyl tyrosine (Dmt), N, 2', 6'-trimethyl tyrosine (Tmt) or 2'-hydroxy-6'-methyl tyrosine (Hmt ); and from 0.001 to 95% by weight of water and the use of at least one such peptide to combat skin aging, to protect the skin from damage by ultraviolet and / or infrared radiation, to improve the elasticity of the skin and / or to reduce and / or prevent wrinkling,

Means and treatments for treating mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged or photodamaged skin are a significant cosmetic challenge. These compositions have a need for ingredients which give the preparations further benefits, be it from an application point of view, from a manufacturing point of view or from the point of view of the consumer who, for example due to certain ingredients, develops an improved subjective feeling towards the cosmetic product. The focus of the performance of an ingredient may also vary depending on the cosmetic agent. Thus, one and the same substance in a shampoo or conditioner can provide nourishing properties for the treated hair, while in a hair dye it also reduces the color of the scalp or compensates for the sometimes aggressive effect of the colorant.

The aging skin is cosmetically treated primarily with vitamin A derivatives or hydroxy acids, which lead to a stimulation of the proliferation of basal cells in the epidermis to a thickening of the epidermis and thus smoothing of the skin.

Retinoids intervene in the metabolism of skin cells and, in addition to stimulating the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes, increase the production of collagen by fibroblasts. In addition, retinol is expected to reduce the formation of collagen-digesting enzymes ( New Scientist 2031, 42-46, 1996 ). However, retinoic acid has teratogenic properties and may only be used in prescription pharmaceuticals. The use of retinol in cosmetic and pharmaceutical topical preparations is problematic for several reasons. Thus, retinol has a relatively high phototoxicity and therefore can only be used in low concentrations in compositions for human use. In addition, retinol is readily oxidatively degraded under the action of heat and / or light and is difficult to stabilize in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations.

Hydroxyacids are often poorly tolerated in the concentrations needed to treat skin aging, particularly for the treatment of sensitive skin and for the treatment of the skin in the eye area.

Newer approaches consist of selectively substituting the proteins that are absent or reduced in the dry or the aging skin, or indirectly intervene in the metabolic processes that are disturbed in dry skin or with increasing age to normalize them. As an example, the stimulation of collagen synthesis with the purpose of wrinkle reduction is mentioned here. Further, for example, laminin, substances for extending the life of skin cells and certain extracts for stimulating epidermal differentiation are used. However, some of these are pharmacologically active substances with a high potential for side effects.

In order to combat and prevent particularly severe skin aging, the cells of the skin must be protected from the effects of UV radiation. Furthermore, the cells must be able to repair or reduce even those damages caused by UV radiation and thus lead to a stronger extrinsic skin aging, and thus to reduce the aging of the skin.

In the international patent applications W02005072295 and W02004070054 Peptides are described which are to be used for the treatment of neurodegenerative diseases such as amyotrophic lateral sclerosis, Friedrich's ataxia, Huntington's, Parkinson's or Alzheimer's disease. Topical application to the skin or use of the described peptides to combat skin aging, to protect the skin from damage by ultraviolet and / or infrared radiation, to improve the elasticity of the skin and / or to reduce and / or prevent wrinkling not described.

An object of the present invention is to provide well-tolerated drugs and compositions containing these well tolerated drugs to combat skin aging.

Another object of the present invention is to provide well-tolerated drugs and compositions containing these well-tolerated drugs for use in protecting the skin from damage by ultraviolet and / or infrared radiation.

Another object of the present invention is to provide well-tolerated drugs and compositions containing these well-tolerated drugs to improve the elasticity of the skin.

Another object of the present invention is to provide well tolerated drugs and compositions containing these well-tolerated drugs to prevent and / or reduce wrinkling.

1. a) eine Länge von drei bis sechzehn Aminosäuren besitzen,
2. b) mindestens eine positive Nettoladung (bei pH 7,2) aufweisen und
3. c) mindestens zwei Aminosäuren mit aromatischen Seitenketten aufweisen, von denen mindestens eine Aminosäure ausgewählt ist aus Tyr, 2'-Methyltyrosin, 6'-Methyltyrosin, 2',6'-Dimethyltyrosin (Dmt), N,2',6'-Trimethyltyrosin (Tmt) oder 2'-Hydroxy-6'-Methyltyrosin (Hmt)

und 0,001 bis 95 Gew.-% Wasser die gestellten Aufgaben in hervorragender Weise löst.Surprisingly, it has been found that compositions containing at least one peptide selected from peptides, which

1. a) have a length of three to sixteen amino acids,
2. b) have at least one net positive charge (at pH 7.2) and
3. c) have at least two amino acids with aromatic side chains, of which at least one amino acid is selected from Tyr, 2'-methyl tyrosine, 6'-methyl tyrosine, 2 ', 6'-dimethyl tyrosine (Dmt), N, 2', 6'-trimethyl tyrosine (Tmt) or 2'-hydroxy-6'-methyltyrosine (Hmt)

and 0.001 to 95 wt .-% water solves the tasks in an excellent manner.

1. a) eine Länge von drei bis sechzehn Aminosäuren besitzen,
2. b) mindestens eine positive Nettoladung (bei pH 7,2) aufweisen und
3. c) mindestens zwei Aminosäuren mit aromatischen Seitenketten aufweisen, von denen mindestens eine Aminosäure ausgewählt ist aus Tyr, 2'-Methyltyrosin, 6'-Methyltyrosin, 2',6'-Dimethyltyrosin (Dmt), N,2',6'-Trimethyltyrosin (Tmt) oder 2'-Hydroxy-6'-Methyltyrosin (Hmt)

und 0,001 bis 95 Gew.-% Wasser.The present invention is a composition containing at least one peptide selected from peptides which

1. a) have a length of three to sixteen amino acids,
2. b) have at least one net positive charge (at pH 7.2) and
3. c) have at least two amino acids with aromatic side chains, of which at least one amino acid is selected from Tyr, 2'-methyl tyrosine, 6'-methyl tyrosine, 2 ', 6'-dimethyl tyrosine (Dmt), N, 2', 6'-trimethyl tyrosine (Tmt) or 2'-hydroxy-6'-methyltyrosine (Hmt)

and 0.001 to 95% by weight of water.

The peptides to be used according to the invention have a length of from three to sixteen amino acids. Longer amino acids are unable to cross the mitochondrial membrane and develop their antioxidant activity in the mitochondria.

Such antioxidant substances are surprisingly able to pass through the cell walls of the mitochondria into the mitochondria themselves and there to positively influence the aging process, in particular to slow it down. Surprisingly, it has now been found that the use can be done not only systemically, but also topically.

Improved availability of antioxidant substances in the fibroblast mitochondria results in a prolonged lifetime of fibroblasts producing the extracellular matrix. The reduction of the extracellular matrix in the dermis leads to wrinkling, loss of elasticity of the skin and general aging of the skin. By improving the supply of mitochondria (as power plants of fibroblasts) with antioxidant substances, the full functionality of each cell can be guaranteed longer and the negative concomitant symptoms of aging can be delayed. Thus, the compositions of the invention are particularly well suited as anti-aging agents for the skin.

According to a preferred embodiment, the peptide to be used according to the invention has a length of from four to twelve, preferably from four to eight, amino acids.

Furthermore, at pH 7.2 (as a physiological pH), the peptides must have at least one net positive charge.

In the context of the invention, the positive net charge in an aqueous solution is meant here. The aqueous solution in which a net positive charge is to be determined, if necessary, may have a physiologically acceptable ionic strength of at most. Excessively high salt concentrations or nonaqueous or mixed aqueous phase systems with more hydrophobic solvents, for example alcohols, can alter the protonability or the pK values.

The net positive charge at pH 7.2 can be generated either by virtue of the fact that the peptide to be used according to the invention has only one amino acid which, at a pH of 7.2, has a side chain of the amino acid with a positive charge. As a rule, a functional group is located on such a side chain. This functional group must have a pK value which results in the functional group being protonated at pH 7.2. Suitable amino acids are, for example, the so-called basic essential amino acids Arg, Lys and His.

Another way to produce at least one net positive charge is to have both acidic amino acids in the peptide, i. with functional group deprotonated at pH 7.2 in the side chains as well as basic amino acids, i. are present at pH 7.2 protonated functional group in the side chain, wherein at least one basic amino acid more than acidic amino acids is present.

In order to pass through the cell membrane into the cell and then into the mitochondria, the peptides must have both lipophilic and cationic properties.

• Lys-D-Arg-Tyr-NH₂, Phe-D-Arg-His, D-Tyr-Trp-Lys-NH₂, Trp-D-Lys-Tyr-Arg-NH₂, Tyr-His-D-Gly-Met, Phe-Arg-D-His-Asp, Tyr-D-Arg-Phe-Lys-Glu-NH₂, Met-Tyr-D-Lys-Phe-Arg, D-His-Glu-Lys-Tyr-D-Phe-Arg, Lys-D-Gln-Tyr-Arg-D-Phe-Trp-NH₂,
• Phe-D-Arg-Lys-Trp-Tyr-D-Arg-His, Gly-D-Phe-Lys-Tyr-His-D-Arg-Tyr- NH₂, Val-D-Lys-His-Tyr-D-Phe-Ser-Tyr-Arg- NH₂, Trp-Lys-Phe-D-Asp-Arg-Tyr-D-His-Lys, Lys-Trp-D-Tyr-Arg-Asn-Phe-Tyr-D-His-NH₂ Thr-Gly-Tyr-Arg-D-His-Phe-Trp-D-His-Lys, Asp-D-Trp-Lys-Tyr-D-His-Phe-Arg-D-Gly-Lys-NH₂, D-His-Lys-Tyr-D-Phe-Glu-D-Asp-D-His-D-Lys-Arg-Trp-NH₂,
• Ala-D-Phe-D-Arg-Tyr-Lys-D-Trp-His-D-Tyr-Gly-Phe, Tyr-D-His-Phe-D-Arg-Asp-Lys-D-Arg-His-Trp-D-His-Phe, Phe-Phe-D-Tyr-Arg-Glu-Asp-D-Lys-Arg-D-Arg-His-Phe-NH₂, Phe-Try-Lys-D-Arg-Trp-His-D-Lys-D-Lys-Glu-Arg-D-Tyr-Thr, Tyr-Asp-D-Lys-Tyr-Phe-D-Lys-D-Arg-Phe-Pro-D-Tyr-His-Lys, Glu-Arg-D-Lys-Tyr-D-Val-Phe-D-His-Trp-Arg-D-Gly-Tyr-Arg-D-Met-NH₂, Arg-D-Leu-D-Tyr-Phe-Lys-Glu-D-Lys-Arg-D-Trp-Lys-D-Phe-Tyr-D-Arg-Gly, D-Glu-Asp-Lys-D-Arg-D-His-Phe-Phe-D-Val-Tyr-Arg-Tyr-D-Tyr-Arg-His-Phe-NH₂, Asp-Arg-D-Phe-Cys-Phe-D-Arg-D-Lys-Tyr-Arg-D-Tyr-Trp-D-His-Tyr-D-Phe-Lys-Phe, His-Tyr-D-Arg-Trp-Lys-Phe-D-Asp-Ala-Arg-Cys-D-Tyr-His-Phe-D-Lys-Tyr-His-Ser-NH₂, Gly-Ala-Lys-Phe-D-Lys-Glu-Arg-Tyr-His-D-Arg-D-Arg-Asp-Tyr-Trp-D-His-Trp-His-D-Lys-Asp und Thr-Tyr-Arg-D-Lys-Trp-Tyr-Glu-Asp-D-Lys-D-Arg-His-Phe-D-Tyr-Gly-Val-Ile-D-His-Arg-Tyr-NH₂.

Peptides preferred according to the invention are, for example:

• _{Lys-D-Arg-Tyr-NH2,} Phe-D-Arg-His, _{D-Tyr-Trp-Lys-NH2, Trp-D-Lys-Tyr-Arg-NH2,} Tyr-His-D-Gly -Met, Phe-Arg-D-His-Asp, Tyr-D-Arg-Phe-Lys-Glu-NH _2, Met-Tyr-D-Lys-Phe-Arg, D-His-Glu-Lys-Tyr- D-Phe-Arg, Lys-D-Gln-Tyr-Arg-D-Phe-Trp-NH ₂ ,
• Phe-D-Arg-Lys-Trp-Tyr-D-Arg-His, _{Gly-D-Phe-Lys-Tyr-His-D-Arg-Tyr-NH2,} Val-D-Lys-His-Tyr-D -Phe-Ser-Tyr-Arg-NH ₂ , Trp-Lys-Phe-D-Asp-Arg-Tyr-D-His-Lys, Lys-Trp-D-Tyr-Arg-Asn-Phe-Tyr-D His-NH ₂ Thr-Gly-Tyr-Arg-D-His-Phe-Trp-D-His-Lys, Asp-D-Trp-Lys-Tyr-D-His-Phe-Arg-D-Gly-Lys- NH ₂ , D-His-Lys-Tyr-D-Phe-Glu-D-Asp-D-His-D-Lys-Arg-Trp-NH ₂ ,
• Ala-D-Phe-D-Arg-Tyr-Lys-D-Trp-His-D-Tyr-Gly-Phe, Tyr-D-His-Phe-D-Arg-Asp-Lys-D-Arg-His- Trp-D-His-Phe, _{Phe-Phe-D-Tyr-Arg-Glu-Asp-D-Lys-Arg-D-Arg-His-Phe-NH2,} Phe-Try-Lys-D-Arg-Trp -His-D-Lys-D-Lys-Glu-Arg-D-Tyr-Thr, Tyr-Asp-D-Lys-Tyr-Phe-D-Lys-D-Arg-Phe-Pro-D-Tyr-His Lys, Glu-Arg-D-Lys-Tyr-D-Val-Phe-D-His-Trp-Arg-D-Gly-Tyr-Arg-D-Met-NH _2, Arg-D-Leu-D- Tyr-Phe-Lys-Glu-D-Lys-Arg-D-Trp-Lys-D-Phe-Tyr-D-Arg-Gly, D-Glu-Asp-Lys-D-Arg-D-His-Phe- _{Phe-D-Val-Tyr-Arg-Tyr-D-Tyr-Arg-His-Phe-NH2,} Asp-Arg-D-Phe-Cys-Phe-D-Arg-D-Lys-Tyr-Arg-D -Tyr-Trp-D-His-Tyr-D-Phe-Lys-Phe, His-Tyr-D-Arg-Trp-Lys-Phe-D-Asp-Ala-Arg-Cys-D-Tyr-His-Phe -D-Lys-Tyr-His-Ser-NH ₂ , Gly-Ala-Lys-Phe-D-Lys-Glu-Arg-Tyr-His-D-Arg-D-Arg-Asp-Tyr-Trp-D His-Trp-His-D-Lys-Asp and Thr-Tyr-Arg-D-Lys-Trp-Tyr-Glu-Asp-D-Lys-D-Arg-His-Phe-D-Tyr-Gly-Val Ile-D-His-Arg-Tyr-NH ₂ .

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the peptide has an alternating sequence of amino acids with side chains positively charged at pH 7.2 and aromatic side chain amino acids. Such peptides are most rapidly and to the largest possible extent from the cytoplasm via the mitochondrial membrane into the mitochondria.

Surprisingly, this is possible if the peptide to be used according to the invention has at least two amino acids with aromatic side chains, of which at least one amino acid is selected from Tyr, 2'-methyl tyrosine, 6'-methyl tyrosine, 2 ', 6'-dimethyl tyrosine (Dmt), N, 2', 6'-trimethyl tyrosine (Tmt) or 2'-hydroxy-6'-methyl tyrosine (Hmt ).

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the peptide contains at least one D-amino acid. This has the advantage that the peptide is less recognized and not digested by the skin or cell's own defense processes, in particular the aminopeptidases, before it can reach the mitochondrial membrane in the fibroblast cells. Particularly suitable is the use of D-amino acids at the 1st and / or 2nd place, as seen from the N-terminus.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the C-terminal carboxyl group of the amino acid is amidated at the C-terminus. This amidation also reduces the hydrolysis of the peptide from the C-terminus.

According to a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the ratio of the number of amino acids with aromatic side chains to the number of positive net charges of the peptide 0.3 to 3, preferably 0.6 to 2. The said ratios have been found to be optimal, a passage through the Cell membranes, in particular to ensure the mitochondrial membrane.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the peptide comprises the amino acid sequence Xxx-Lys, wherein the amino acid Xxx is selected from Phe, 2 ', 6'-dimethylphenylalanine (Dmp), Trp, Tyr, 2'-methyltyrosine, 6'-methyltyrosine, 2 ', 6'-dimethyltyrosine (Dmt), N, 2', 6'-trimethyltyrosine (Tmt) or 2'-hydroxy-6'-methyltyrosine (Hmt). The amino acid sequence Xxx-Lys can occur both at the N-terminus, in the middle of the peptide and at the C-terminus.

According to a further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the peptide is selected from peptides which comprise the following amino acid sequences: (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ , Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ , Tyr- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ , Phe- (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-NH ₂ and 2 ', 6'-Dmp- (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-NH ₂ ,

In this context, encompassing means that the peptides show the sequence and possibly also carry further amino acids at the N- and / or C-terminus. In particular, those peptides which have exactly this amino acid sequence (i.e., carry no further amino acids at the N and / or C terminus) are preferred.

Very particular preference is given to peptides which comprise the amino acid sequence (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ , in particular those peptides which have precisely this sequence.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions of the invention contain the at least one peptide in a concentration of 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt. -%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 - 0.05 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition. If several, in particular inventive peptides are included, the stated amount refers to the total amount of peptide.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprising an antioxidative peptide and at least one surfactant, at least one additional active ingredient selected from aporphin alkaloids, purine and / or purine derivatives, natural Betainverbindungen, alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea compounds, monomers, oligomers and Polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, and mixtures of these agents. Surprisingly, it has been found that the effect of the composition according to the invention can be unexpectedly increased by an aporphine alkaloid. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the addition of at least one aporphine alkaloid results in optimized regulation of electrolyte supply at the cellular level, thereby reducing the effect of the composition of the present invention in combating skin aging, protecting the skin from damage by ultraviolet radiation, to improve the skin's elasticity and / or to reduce and / or prevent wrinkling is synergistically improved.

in der die Reste R¹, R², R³, R⁴ und R⁵, die gleich oder verschieden sein können, ausgewählt sind aus einem Wasserstoffatom, einem Halogenatom, einem C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einem C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einem (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest, einem Hydroxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylaminorest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkoxyrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-(C₁-bis C₄)-aminoalkylrest oder einem (Di-C₁- bis C₄-Alkylamino)-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Arylgruppe, insbesondere einer Phenylgruppe, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Heteroarylgruppe, einer Aryl-C₁-C₆-alkylgruppe, einer Acylgruppe, einer Sulfonylgruppe oder einem Zucker, und den kosmetisch verträglichen Salzen von (APO-ALK-I) mit einer Säure, in Form aller 15 optischen Isomere, in isomerenreiner Form oder als Mischung optischer Isomere.Preferred aporphin alkaloids to be used according to the invention are selected from compounds of the general structure (APO-ALK-I),

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ , which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkoxy- (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -aminoalkyl radical, a hydroxy - (C ₁ - to C ₄₎ alkylamino group, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -Hydroxyalkoxyrest, a C ₁ - to C ₄ hydroxyalkyl (C ₁ to C ₄₎ aminoalkyl radical or a (di-C ₁ - to _C4 alkylamino) - (C ₁ - to C ₄₎ alkyl, an optionally substituted aryl group, especially a phenyl group, an optionally substituted heteroaryl group, an aryl-C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, an acyl group, a sulfonyl group or a Sugar, and the cosmetically acceptable salts of (APO-ALK-I) with an acid, in the form of all 15 optical isomers, in isomerically pure form or as a mixture of optical isomers.

Examples of the C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radicals mentioned as substituents in the compounds combined according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl and butyl. Ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals. C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkoxy radicals preferably to be used according to the invention are, for example, a methoxy or an ethoxy group. Furthermore, as preferred examples of a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl group, a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl or a 4-hydroxybutyl group. A 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred. A particularly preferred C ₂ to C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl group is the 1,2-dihydroxyethyl group. Examples of halogen atoms are according to the invention F, Cl or Br atoms, Cl atoms are very particularly preferred.

Any mono- or oligo-, in particular disaccharides, can be used as the sugar radical. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred aporphine alkaloids are selected from compounds of the general structure (APO-ALK-I) in which R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = CH ₃ . This compound is also referred to as 1,2,9,10-tetramethoxyaporphin.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain at least one aporphine alkaloid in narrower ranges. Preferred compositions according to the invention, in particular cosmetic compositions, are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, a total amount of 0.0001-1% by weight, preferably 0.001-0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.002-0 , 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.005 to 0.01 wt .-% of at least one aporphine alkaloid.

Compositions particularly preferred according to the invention contain (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and 1,2,9,10-tetramethoxyaporphin. Further particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ and 1,2,9,10-tetramethoxyaporphin.

Another object of the present invention is a composition containing an antioxidant peptide according to claim 1 and at least one surfactant, in combination with at least one active ingredient, which is selected from purine (7 H -imidazo [4,5- d ] pyrimidine) and the derivatives of purine. Surprisingly, it has been found that the effect of the composition according to the invention can be unexpectedly increased by purine and / or purine derivative (s). Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the addition of purine and / or at least one purine derivative results in optimized regulation of nutrient supply, especially lipid supply, at the cellular level, thereby enhancing the effect of the composition of the invention in combating skin aging , is synergistically improved to protect the skin from damage by ultraviolet radiation, to improve the elasticity of the skin and / or to reduce and / or prevent wrinkling.

in der die Reste R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H, - OH, -NH₂, -SH und die Reste R⁴, R⁵ und R⁶ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H, einem C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einem C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einem (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest, einem Hydroxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylaminorest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkoxyrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-(C₁- bis C₄)-aminoalkylrest oder einem (Di-C₁- bis C₄-Alkylamino)-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Arylgruppe, insbesondere einer Phenylgruppe, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Heteroarylgruppe und einer Aryl-C₁-C₆-alkylgruppe.Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention comprise purine and / or purine derivative (s) - based on their weight - in a total amount of 0.001-2.5 wt.%, Preferably 0.01-1 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0 , 1 - 0.8 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 - 0.5 wt .-%. Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred in the present invention. Compositions preferred according to the invention comprise purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (PUR-I),

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, - OH, -NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, a C C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkoxy- (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical , a C ₁ - to C ₄ -aminoalkyl radical, a hydroxy (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkylamino radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkoxy radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl- (C ₁ - to C ₄₎ aminoalkyl radical or a (di-C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkylamino) - (C ₁ - to C ₄₎ alkyl, an optionally substituted aryl group, especially a phenyl group, an optionally substituted heteroaryl group, and an aryl-C ₁ C ₆ alkyl group.

• Purin (R¹ = R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• Adenin (R¹ = NH₂, R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• Guanin (R¹ = OH, R² = NH₂, R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• Harnsäure (R¹ = R² = R³ = OH, R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• Hypoxanthin (R¹ = OH, R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• 6-Purinthiol (R¹ = SH, R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• 6-Thioguanin (R¹ = SH, R² = NH₂, R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• Xanthin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• Coffein (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = H, R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = CH₃)
• Theobromin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = R⁴ = H, R⁵ = R⁶ = CH₃)
• Theophyllin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = H, R⁴ = CH₃, R⁵ = CH₃, R⁶ = H).

Combinations which are particularly preferred for use in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (PUR-I) in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ³ are selected independently of one another from -H, - OH, -NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ -CH ₃ , where the following compounds are extremely preferred:

• Purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• 6-Purethiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• 6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )
• Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )
• Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H).

wobei in der Formel (PUR-II) die Reste R⁶, R⁷ und R⁸, die gleich oder verschieden sein können, ausgewählt sind aus einem Wasserstoffatom, einem C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Mono-hydroxyalkylrest, einem C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einem (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest, einem Hydroxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylaminorest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkoxyrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-(C₁-bis C₄)-aminoalkylrest oder einem (Di-C₁- bis C₄-Alkylamino)-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Arylgruppe, insbesondere einer Phenylgruppe, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Heteroarylgruppe und einer Aryl-C₁-C₆-alkylgruppe, wobei Coffein (R⁶ = R⁷ = R⁸ = CH₃), Theobromin (R⁶ = H, R⁷ = R⁸ = CH₃) und Theophyllin (R⁶ = R⁷ = CH₃, R⁸ = H) außerordentlich bevorzugt sind.Compounds of the general formula (PUR-I) in which R ¹ and / or R ² correspond to an OH group exist in tautomeric compounds, especially those of the general formula (PUR-II), starting from (PUR-I) with R ¹ = R ² = OH:

in the formula (PUR-II), the radicals R ⁶ , R ⁷ and R ⁸ , which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ Mono hydroxyalkyl, a C ₂ to C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkoxy (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl, a C ₁ to C ₄ aminoalkyl, a hydroxy - (C ₁ - to C ₄₎ alkylamino group, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -Hydroxyalkoxyrest, a C ₁ - to C ₄ hydroxyalkyl (C ₁ to C ₄₎ aminoalkyl radical or a (di-C ₁ - to C ₄ alkylamino) - (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) alkyl, an optionally substituted aryl group, in particular a phenyl group, an optionally substituted heteroaryl group and an aryl-C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, wherein caffeine (R ⁶ = R ⁷ = R ⁽⁸ = CH _3), theobromine R ⁶ = H, R ⁷ = R ⁸ = CH ₃₎ and theophylline (R ⁶ = R ⁷ = CH _3, R ⁸ = H) are greatly preferred.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and caffeine. Further particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and theobromine. Further particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and theophylline. Further inventively particularly preferred compositions contain Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ and

Caffeine. Further inventively particularly preferred compositions are characterized by a content of Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ and theobromine. Further inventively particularly preferred compositions are characterized by a content of Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ and theophylline.

Another object of the present invention is a composition containing an antioxidant peptide according to claim 1 and at least one surfactant, in combination with at least one natural Betainverbindung.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the effect of the composition according to the invention can be unexpectedly enhanced by a natural betaine compound. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the addition of at least one natural betaine compound results in optimized regulation of nutrient supply at the cellular level and / or within the extracellular matrix (ECM), thereby reducing the effect of the composition of the present invention skin aging, to protect the skin from damage by ultraviolet radiation, to improve the skin's elasticity and / or to reduce and / or prevent wrinkling is synergistically improved.

Natural betaine compounds preferably to be used according to the invention are naturally occurring compounds with the atomic grouping R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^- according to IUPAC Rule C-816.1. So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge formally reside on O, S, B or C, but which are not of the IUPAC Comply with rule C-816.1. According to the invention preferred betaine are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^-) carnitine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^-), each with Me = methyl, and ergothioneine = 2-mercapto-N ^α N ^α N ^α -trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine of the formula (BETA-II)

The origin of the natural betaine compound used according to the invention may well be synthetic. Furthermore, salts and / or esters of natural betaine compounds according to the invention can preferably be used. Such a particularly preferred derivative is carnitine tartrate. Preferred compositions according to the invention additionally comprise at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight and most preferably 0, 3 - 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention include betaine and a peptide selected from (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ . Other combinations which are particularly preferred according to the invention are carnitine and (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ or Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ , likewise carnitine tartrate and an antioxidative peptide selected from (D -Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ . Further particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise ergothioneine and an antioxidant peptide selected from (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ or Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ .

in der R₁, R₂, R₃ und R₄ unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, n-Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, sek.-Butyl-, tert. Butyl- oder C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, stehen, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R₁ - R₄ eine C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, darstellt.Another object of the present invention is a composition containing an antioxidant peptide according to claim 1 and at least one surfactant, in combination with at least one substance selected from urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas. Surprisingly, it has been found that the effect of the composition according to the invention can be unexpectedly increased by substances selected from urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the addition of at least one substance selected from urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas results in optimized regulation of nutrient supply within the extracellular matrix (ECM), thereby enhancing the effect of the present invention Composition to combat skin aging, to protect the skin from damage by ultraviolet radiation, to improve the elasticity of the skin and / or to reduce and / or prevent wrinkling is synergistically improved. Alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea compounds preferably to be used according to the invention have the general formula (UREA-I)

in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ - R _{4 is} a C C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups.

According to the invention, particularly preferred alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea compounds of the general formula (UREA-I) are selected from compounds in which in each case at least one of the radicals R ₁ and R ₂ or R ₃ and R _{4 is} a C ₂ -C ₆ -hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups. Particularly preferred C ₂ -C ₆ -hydroxyalkyl groups which are substituted by 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl groups are selected from 2-hydroxyethyl, 3-hydroxypropyl, 2-hydroxypropyl, 2- Hydroxyisopropyl and 4-hydroxybutyl groups, with the 2-hydroxyethyl group being highly preferred. Also highly preferred is bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea. Urea itself is also particularly preferred. It is further preferred to use mixtures of urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea compounds. The commercially available alkyl or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea preparations usually contain unsubstituted urea as a by-product or by-product. Therefore, according to the invention, combinations of urea and at least one substance selected from alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas are also preferred. Extremely preferred are mixtures of urea and bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea. Preferred compositions to be used according to the invention comprise at least one substance selected from urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas, in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 3 wt .-% and exceptionally preferably 0.5 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

The commercially available alkyl or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea preparations usually contain unsubstituted urea as a by-product or by-product. Therefore, according to the invention, combinations of urea and at least one substance selected from alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas are also preferred.

Particularly preferred combinations according to the invention are bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea and an antioxidant peptide selected from (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe -Lys-NH ₂ . Further particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise urea and a peptide selected from (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ . Further inventively particularly preferred compositions contain urea and Bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea and a peptide selected from (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ .

Another object of the present invention is a composition containing an antioxidant substance and at least one surfactant, in combination with at least one substance which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl-amino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, as well as mixtures of these agents.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the effect of the composition according to the invention unexpectedly by substances selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, and mixtures thereof Active ingredients, can be increased. Without wishing to be bound by this theory, it is believed that the addition of at least one substance selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts thereof Substances, as well as mixtures of these agents, to an optimized regulation of nutrient supply at the cellular level and / or to an optimized regulation of nutrient supply within the extracellular matrix (ECM) and / or to stimulate the growth processes of the extracellular matrix (ECM) the effect of the composition of the invention in combating skin aging, protecting the skin from damage by ultraviolet radiation, improving the elasticity of the skin and / or reducing and / or preventing wrinkling is synergistically improved.

The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, desmosine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine , Hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate , Sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate.

The C ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl radical with which said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is preferably selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl -, undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents. With the abovementioned C ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl radicals, the amino acids which carry an OH group can also be esterified at this OH group. A preferred example of this according to the invention is hydroxyproline, which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residues, more preferably dipalmitoylhydroxyproline.

The physiologically acceptable salts of the preferred amino acids or amino acid derivatives according to the invention are preferably selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Particularly preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

According to the invention, amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2 to 30, preferably 2 to 15, amino acids. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Many of these amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit immune system cells, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then induce tissue repair processes via the release of growth factors, eg collagen synthesis, or are able to sequence them To bind Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus to release active TGF-β ( tissue growth factor ), which induces the synthesis of collagen in dermal fibroblasts.

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (INCl: acetyl citrullo amido arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val-Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp -Phe, N-palmitoyl-β-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester, carnosine (β-Ala-His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. Preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides according to the invention are Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys. Furthermore, analogues of Gly-His-Lys can be used, wherein a maximum of two amino acids are substituted by suitable other amino acids. For the substitution of Gly according to the invention Ala, Leu and

Ile suitable. The inventively preferred amino acids that can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom that is predominantly charged at pH 6, eg. Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine. Most preferably, Lys is replaced by Arg, Orn or citrulline. Another preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCl designation: tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg; further preferred tripeptides to be used according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys-Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (tripeptides -2), tripeptides-4, His-Ala-Orn, Gly-Asp-Ser, N-elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ .

Preference according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are selected from Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg which is particularly preferred according to the invention. The Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are rearranged and / or in which a maximum of two amino acids are substituted to Rigin, z. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a Pro or Arg, and more preferably the Tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, with their Order and position may vary. The substituting amino acids can be selected from any amino acid defined below. Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapetides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa , Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids that can substitute Gly, Xbb is selected from Gln and the amino acids that can substitute Gln, Xcc is selected from Pro or Arg and the Amino acids that can substitute Pro and Arg. The preferred amino acids that can replace Gly include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile). The preferred amino acids that can replace Gln include a side chain having an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), eg, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline, and canavanine. The preferred amino acids that can replace Arg include a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, such as Pro, Lys, His, desmosine, and isodesmosine. As Rigin analogs according to the invention Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred.

ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Gln, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups.

Optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides which are preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, more preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, furthermore N- Palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl- Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for the inhibition of desquamation). Preferred, if appropriate, N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides according to the invention are Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg, furthermore Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3, Hexapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-5, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-5, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-6, Hexapeptide-8, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-8, Hexapeptide-9 and Hexapeptide-10, Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (Hexapeptide-1), Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Glutamyl Hexapeptide-1, Hexapeptide-2, Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (Hexapeptide- 3), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, Hexapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-5, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-5, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-6, Ala-Arg-His-Methylnorleucine Homophenylalanine Trp (Hexapeptide-7), Hexapeptide-8, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-8, Hexapeptide-9, Hexapeptide-10 and Hexapeptide-11. An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z. B. Pentadecapeptide-1.

Another preferred amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole. An amino acid oligomer active ingredient particularly preferred according to the invention is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg.

Another active ingredient which is preferred according to the invention and exhibits an unexpected increase in activity in the composition according to the invention is selected from polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids.

Polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids combined according to the invention are preferably selected from plant and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, conchiolin and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolysates, eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Particularly preferred are soy protein hydrolysates, more preferably soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400 to 1700 daltons, e.g. B. under the trade name Ridulisse C ^{® available} from the company Silab, and soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 600 - 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, z. As available under the trade name Phytokine ^® from Coletica. Also preferred is the use of acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Also preferred according to the invention are cationized protein hydrolysates.

In a further preferred embodiment, the polymers of the amino acids combined according to the invention are selected from DNA repair enzymes.

Preferred DNA repair enzymes to be used according to the invention are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter being abbreviated to "T4N5" below. These two enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes. DNA repair is defined as the cleavage or removal of UV-induced pyrimidine dimers from the DNA. Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosome ™, liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. B. under the name Ultrasome ™ from AGI Dermatics, USA, available. Additionally particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise at least one of the commercial products Photosomes ™ or Ultrasomes ™ in total amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight and more preferably 1.0-4.0 Wt .-%, based on the total composition of the invention. Further particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise the enzyme photolyase in a total amount of 0.0001-0.1% by weight, preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight, more preferably 0.002-0.02% by weight and most preferably 0.005 - 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the invention.

Further particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise the enzyme T4 endonuclease V in a total amount of 0.0001-0.1% by weight, preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight, particularly preferably 0.002-0.02% by weight and very preferably 0.005-0.01% by weight, in each case based on the total composition according to the invention.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the present invention include photolyase and a peptide selected from (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ . Further particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise T4 endonuclease V and a peptide selected from (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ . Further particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise photolyase and T4 endonuclease V and a peptide selected from (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ .

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain at least one active ingredient which is selected from monomers, oligomers and

Polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, in a total amount of 0.00001 - 2 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 - 1 wt .-% , Particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.01 to 0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition included.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise an antioxidant peptide selected from (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ , and and at least one peptide selected from N Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and / or N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg and / or N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser.

It may be particularly preferred according to the invention that the amino acids and peptides used as active ingredient are N-acylated and / or esterified to improve the penetration into the skin with at least one, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid. Particularly preferred for N-acylation and / or esterification are C ₈ -C ₁₈ -fatty acids, very particular preference is given to myristic acid (C ₁₄ ) and palmitic acid (C ₁₆ ). It is furthermore particularly preferred that all the amino acids and peptides used are N-acylated and / or esterified in this way. Also preferred is the substitution of the amino acids and peptides with a benzyloxycarbonyl group at the terminal amino group.

Another active ingredient which is preferred according to the invention and exhibits an unexpected increase in activity in the presence of the composition according to the invention is selected from polysaccharides. It has surprisingly been found that the action of the composition according to the invention can be unexpectedly increased by polysaccharides, in particular by polysaccharides containing at least one deoxy sugar building block, in particular fucose and / or rhamnose, and / or by glycosaminoglycans and / or by glucans , Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the addition of at least one polysaccharide would result in optimized regulation of the water balance within the extracellular matrix (ECM) and / or optimized regulation of nutrient supply within the ECM and / or stimulation the process of construction of the ECM leads, whereby the effect of the composition according to the invention in the fight against skin aging, to protect the skin from damage by ultraviolet radiation, to improve the elasticity of the skin and / or is synergistically improved to reduce and / or prevent wrinkling. Preferred polysaccharides to be used according to the invention are those which comprise at least one deoxy sugar building block, in particular fucose and / or rhamnose, more preferably selected from substances with the INCl designations biosaccharides gum-1, biosaccharides gum-2, biosaccharides gum-3 and biosaccharides Gum-4, furthermore mixtures of the abovementioned polysaccharides containing at least one deoxy sugar building block, for example the mixture of biosaccharides Gum-2 and biosaccharides Gum-3. Further preferred polysaccharides to be used according to the invention are selected from the glycosaminoglycans, more preferably hyaluronic acid and its salts, dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin 6-sulfate. Further preferred polysaccharides to be used according to the invention are selected from the glucans. Glucans or polyglucosans are a class of homopolysaccharides whose monomer component is exclusively glucose. Examples of glucans are cellulose, amylose, glycogen, lichenin, alginate laminarin, tree fungus pachyman and β-1,3-linked yeast glucan; Nigeran, mycodextran isolated from fungi (α-1,3-glucan, α-1,4-glucan), pustulan (β-1,6-glucan), dextran, curdlan (β-1,3-D-glucan) , Pullulan and Schizophyllan. Further preferred polysaccharides to be used according to the invention, which exhibit an unexpected increase in activity in the presence of the inventive composition, are selected from chemically modified cellulose derivatives, preferably hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, furthermore in particular from starches and starch degradation products such as amylose and amylopectin, chemically and / or thermally modified starches, e.g. Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, dihydroxypropyldistarch phosphate, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, sodium starch octenylsuccinate or calcium starch octenylsuccinate, furthermore chitosan and its salts and other derivatives, further from fucose and rhamnose-free polysaccharides forming gums or gums such as guar gum, xanthan gum, alginates, in particular Sodium alginate, gum arabic, karaya gum, carrageenans, locust bean gum, linseed gums, shellac and agar agar.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain at least one polysaccharide in a total amount of 0.001-10 wt%, preferably 0.01-5 wt%, more preferably 0.1-3 wt%, and most preferably 0.5-1 Wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance polysaccharide in the entire composition.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention include hyaluronic acid (salt) and an antioxidant peptide selected from (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ . Further according to the invention particularly preferred compositions contain a polysaccharide selected from beta-glucan and / or Natriumstärkeoctenylsuccinat, and a peptide selected from (D-Arg) -DMT-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt (D-Arg) -Phe Lys-NH ₂ .

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention, the compositions of the invention with mixtures of two or more of the active substances, which are selected from aporphin alkaloids, purine and / or purine derivatives, natural Betainverbindungen, alkyl or Hydroxyalkylsubstituierten urea compounds, monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, and polysaccharides use.

Further inventively preferred compositions contain at least one further active ingredient selected from retinoids, especially retinol and C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol, oleanolic acid, oleanol, creatine, flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts, isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts, dihydroquercetin, dill extract (Peucedanum Graveolens Extract), DNA or RNA oligonucleotides, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups B and E and the esters of the abovementioned substances, α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone and / or or salt form, silymarin, ectoine, skin-calming and sebum-regulating active ingredients and mixtures of the abovementioned substances.

According to the invention, the isoflavones include the isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides. According to the invention, isoflavones are substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, it being possible for hydrogenation to be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation to form a carbonyl group in 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others, vitamin B ₁ , vitamin B ₂ , vitamin B ₃ , in particular nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide), vitamin B ₅ , in particular pantothenic acid and panthenol, as well as esters, ethers and cationic derivatives the panthenol, also dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the common name pantolactone; Vitamin B ₆ , which is not understood to be a uniform substance but the derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ol known under the trivial names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal, vitamin B ₇ (biotin), folic acid (vitamin B ₉ , Vitamin B _c ) and orotic acid (vitamin B ₁₃ ). The vitamin E group includes tocopherol, especially α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred for use according to the invention comprise at least one of the following active substance combinations:
Folic acid and a peptide selected from (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ ; Folic acid and N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and a peptide selected from (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ ; Carnitine and folic acid and a peptide selected from (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ .

Preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2- Hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. A particularly preferred α-ketocarboxylic acid is pyruvic acid. The esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Further derivatives of the abovementioned acids are their physiologically tolerated salts, preferably the zinc, copper and manganese salts, the salts of the alkali and alkaline earth metals and the ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, particularly preferably the sodium, potassium and potassium salts. , Magnesium and calcium salts. The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids or β-hydroxycarboxylic acids or their derivatives are preferably in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 wt .-% and most preferably 1 - 2 wt. -%, in each case based on the total composition included.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention comprise coenzyme Q 10 and at least one antioxidant peptide selected from (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ . This has the particular advantage that the antioxidant substance directed to the mitochondria in the composition is not already oxidized by atmospheric oxygen and thus becomes unusable.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention comprise ectoine and at least one antioxidant peptide selected from (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ .

Skin-soothing active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from allantoin, α-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, extracts from Centella asiatica, glycyrrethic acid, the dipeptide Tyr-Arg, its esters and its N-acyl derivatives, in particular N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester , as well as any mixtures of these substances. The skin-soothing active ingredients are preferably present in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Sebum-regulating active ingredients which are preferred according to the invention are selected from azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-decanediol, potassium azeloyl diglycinate, extracts from Spiraea ulmaria, furthermore from water- and oil-soluble extracts of witch hazel, burdock root and nettle, cinnamon extract and chrysanthemum extract. The sebum-regulating active ingredients are preferably present in a total amount of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

According to the invention it is preferred that the composition is a topically applied composition. Thus, the composition can be suitably applied to other organs where it exerts its most suitable effect on the skin without any troublesome side effects. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprising an antioxidative peptide according to claim 1 and 0.001 to 95% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the composition, is formulated in a form suitable for administration by topical route.

In a preferred embodiment suitable for topical administration, the compositions of the present invention contain at least one conditioning agent. According to the invention, conditioning substances are to be understood as substances which are absorbed by keratinic materials, in particular on the skin, and improve the physical and sensory properties of both the skin and of the product as such. Conditioners smooth the top layer of the skin and make it soft and supple. Through the choice of conditioning agents (greasy - less greasy, fast or slow spreading, quickly or slowly absorbed into the skin and so on), the skin feel of the entire product can be adjusted. Conditioning active ingredients preferably to be used according to the invention are selected from fatty substances, in particular vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid fractions of coconut oil, lanolin and its derivatives, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin- oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, for. As di-n-octyl ether and n-hexyl n-octyl ether, fatty acids, particularly linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C _8-30 fatty acids, fatty alcohols, particularly saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 4 to 30 carbon atoms which may be ethoxylated with 1 to 75, preferably 5 to 20 ethylene oxide units and / or propoxylated with 3 to 30, preferably 9 to 14 propylene oxide units, ester oils, ie esters of C _{6 30-} fatty acids with C _2-30 fatty alcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters, dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate or propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. B. glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC), mono, - di- and tri fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, with 1 - 10, preferably 7-9 ethylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, z. B. PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, waxes, especially insect waxes, plant waxes, fruit waxes, ozokerite, microwaxes, ceresin, paraffin waxes, triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C _16-30 fatty acids, eg. Hardened triglyceride fats, phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxan and silicone polymers, which may be crosslinked, if desired, z. B. polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes having the earlier INCl designation dimethicone copolyol, as well as polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups, preferably substances with the INCl designations Dimethiconol, Amodimethicone or Trimethylsilylamodimethicone. The amount of fatty substances used is preferably 0.1-99% by weight, more preferably 2-50% by weight and most preferably 5-20% by weight, in each case based on the total skin treatment agent.

• Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z.B. als Lecithine bzw. Phosphatidylcholine aus z.B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z.B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit
• Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH)

anionische Tenside sind, jeweils in Form der Natrium-, Kalium- und Ammonium- sowie der Mono-, Di- und Trialkanolammoniumsalze mit 2 bis 4 C-Atomen in der Alkanolgruppe:

• lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C - Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn - Salze.
• lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate gemäß DE-A-37 25 030 ,
• sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether gemäß DE-A-37 23 354 ,
• Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen gemäß DE-A-39 26 344 ,
• Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (VI),
  
  in der R²⁹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R³⁰ für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR²⁹ oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³¹R³²R³³R³⁴, mit R³¹ bis R³⁴ unabhängig voneinander stehend für einen C₁ bis C₄ - Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel R³⁵CO(AlkO)_nSO₃M, in der R³⁵CO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Kation steht, wie sie in der DE-OS 197 36 906.5 beschrieben sind,
• Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (VIII),
  
  wie sie beispielsweise in EP 561825 B1 , EP 561999 B1 , DE 4204700 A1 oder von A.K.Biswas et al. in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 37, 171 (1960 ) und F.U.Ahmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990 ) beschrieben worden sind, in der R³⁶CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate der Formel (VIII) eingesetzt, in der R³⁶CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht;
  N-Alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium-glycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosalkyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, N-Acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosacylaminopropyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, und 2-Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline mit jeweils 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe sowie das Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat;
  N-Alkylglycine, N-Alkylpropionsäuren, N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren, N-Alkyliminodipropionsäuren, N-Hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-Alkyltaurine, N-Alkylsarcosine, 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren und Alkylaminoessigsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, N-Kokosalkylaminopropionat, Kokosacylaminoethylaminopropionat, C₁₂ - C₁₈ - Acylsarcosin;
• Anlagerungsprodukten von 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/ oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe;
• C_12/18-Fettsäuremono- und -diestern von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin;
• Glycerinmono- und -diestern und Sorbitanmono- und -diestern von gesättigten und ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und deren Ethylenoxidanlagerungsprodukten;
• Alkylmono- und -oligoglycosiden mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alkylrest und deren ethoxylierten Analoga;
• Anlagerungsprodukten von 15 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Ricinusöl und/oder gehärtetes Ricinusöl;
• Polyolestern;
• Anlagerungsprodukten von 2 bis 15 Mol Ethylenoxid an Ricinusöl und/oder gehärtetes Ricinusöl;
• Partialestern auf Basis linearer, verzweigter, ungesättigter bzw. gesättigter C_6/22-Fettsäuren, Ricinolsäure sowie 12-Hydroxystearinsäure und Glycerin, Polyglycerin, Pentaerythrit, Dipentaerythrit, Zuckeralkoholen, Alkylglucosiden sowie Polyglucosiden;
• Trialkylphosphaten sowie Mono-, Di- und/oder Tri-PEG-Alkylphosphaten;
• Wollwachsalkoholen;
• Polysiloxan-Polyalkyl-Polyether-Copolymeren bzw. entsprechenden Derivaten;
• Mischestern aus Pentaerythrit, Fettsäuren, Citronensäure und Fettalkohol und/oder Mischestern von Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, Methylglucose und Polyolen sowie
• Polyalkylenglycolen;
• Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• mit einem Methyl- oder C₂ - C₆ - Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol - Typen (Cognis),
• alkoxylierte Triglyceride,
• alkoxylierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel R³⁷CO-(OCH₂CHR³⁸)_wOR³⁹, in der R³⁷CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R³⁸ für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³⁹ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• Aminoxide,
• Hydroxymischether, wie sie beipielsweise in der DE-OS 19738866 beschrieben sind,
• Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide,
• Alkylpolygykoside entsprechend der allgemeinen Formel RO-(Z)_x wobei R für Alkyl, Z für Zucker sowie x für die Anzahl der Zuckereinheiten steht. Die erfindungsgemäß verwendbaren Alkylpolyglykoside können lediglich einen bestimmten Alkylrest R enthalten. Üblicherweise werden diese Verbindungen aber ausgehend von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen oder Mineralölen hergestellt. In diesem Fall liegen als Alkylreste R Mischungen entsprechend den Ausgangsverbindungen bzw. entsprechend der jeweiligen Aufarbeitung dieser Verbindungen vor. Besonders bevorzugt sind solche Alkylpolyglykoside, bei denen R
• im wesentlichen aus C₈- und C₁₀-Alkylgruppen,
• im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- und C₁₄-Alkylgruppen,
• im wesentlichen aus C₈- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• im wesentlichen aus C₁₆ bis C₁₈-Alkylgruppen besteht.

In a further preferred embodiment, the effect of the composition according to the invention can be increased by the addition of one or more emulsifiers or surfactants. The terms surfactant or emulsifier are understood to mean surface-active substances which carry an anionic or cationic charge in the molecule. Also, both anionic and cationic charge may be present in the molecule. These zwitterionic or amphoteric surface-active substances can also be used according to the invention. Furthermore, the surface-active substances may also be non-ionic. The compositions according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, more preferably 0.5-15% by weight, even more preferably 1-7% by weight, based in each case on the total composition. Preferred emulsifiers and surfactants are

• Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component being preferred,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,
• Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• Phospholipids. These include, in particular, the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolks or plant seeds (for example soybeans).
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol
• Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH)

anionic surfactants, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group:

• linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
• linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,
• linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of surface active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030 .
• Sulfated Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- and / or Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether according to DE-A-37 23 354 .
• Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344 .
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (VI)
  
  in the R ^{29 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{30 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ²⁹ or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³¹ R ³² R ³³ R ³⁴ , with R ³¹ to R ³⁴ independently of one another represents a C ₁ to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical,
• sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula R ³⁵ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M in which R ^{35 is} CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation as described in US Pat DE-OS 197 36 906.5 are described
• Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (VIII),
  
  as for example in EP 561825 B1 . EP 561999 B1 . DE 4204700 A1 or by AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil. Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960 ) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990 ) Have been described, in which R ³⁶ CO is a linear or branched acyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z together stand for 0 or for numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preference is given to using monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (VIII) in which R ³⁶ CO represents a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
  N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the Kokosacylaminopropyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat;
  N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine;
• Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
• C _12/18 fatty acid _mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;
• Glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products;
• Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;
• Addition products of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• polyol esters;
• Addition products of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• Partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C _6/22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols, alkyl glucosides and polyglucosides;
• Trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates;
• Wool wax alcohols;
• Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;
• Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and / or mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols and
• polyalkylene glycols;
• Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .
• with a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis),
• alkoxylated triglycerides,
• alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula R ³⁷ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ³⁸ ) _w OR ³⁹ , in which R ³⁷ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{38 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ³⁹ is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is numbers from 1 to 20,
• Amine oxides,
• Hydroxymischether, as example in the DE-OS 19738866 are described
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides,
• Alkyl polyglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO- (Z) _x where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can only contain one particular alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds. Particularly preferred are those alkyl polyglycosides in which R
• essentially C ₈ and C ₁₀ alkyl groups,
• consisting essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ -alkyl groups,
• consisting essentially of C ₈ - to C ₁₆ -alkyl groups or
• consisting essentially of C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ -alkyl groups or
• consisting essentially of C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ alkyl groups.

As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.8. The alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 and below is included. Such preferred emulsifiers are in particular compounds of the general formula R ¹ -O-R ² , in which R ^{1 is} a primary linear alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group having 20-30 C atoms, preferably a behenyl radical, and R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a group having the formula - (C _n H _2n O) _x -H where x = 1 or 2 and n = 2 - 4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group having 4-6 C atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups, preferably hydrogen. A particularly preferred compound R ¹ -O-R ² is behenyl alcohol. Further preferred emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 and below are the adducts of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenic acid or erucic acid. Preferably, the monoesters of C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with polyols such as. As pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methyl glucose. Examples of such products are z. B. sorbitan monobehenate or pentaerythritol monoerucate. The presence of emulsifiers of the general formula R ¹ -O-R ² can lead to lamellar structures in the emulsion, which can have particularly favorable effects on the restoration of the lamellar structure of the skin. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they are present in the form of a lamellar structures having oil-in-water emulsion.

Also preferred according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCl designations quaternium-27 and quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride is an example of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.
The cationic surfactants are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The compositions according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the methods described in US Pat Rompp Lexicon Chemistry (ed. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764 , listed definitions. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

Among the emulsifier types mentioned, the emulsifiers which do not contain any ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide in the molecule can be very particularly preferred.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, at least one surfactant is selected from the group of nonionic surfactants. In addition to the at least one nonionic surfactant, it is also possible for other surfactants to be present in the composition according to the invention which are selected from other, in particular the abovementioned classes of surfactant. Preferred compositions containing at least one nonionic surfactant are advantageously particularly gentle and skin-friendly cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations which have low skin irritation, but at the same time the penetration of the antioxidant substance into the skin, in particular into the deeper skin layers to the fibroblasts of the skin Dermis, and at the same time to ensure in particular mitochondria of fibroblasts. Their use results in a synergistic increase in the effectiveness of the antioxidant substances according to the invention for combating skin aging, for protecting the skin from damage by ultraviolet radiation, for improving the elasticity of the skin and / or for reducing and / or preventing wrinkling.

The cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are preferably in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water-in-oil or water in-oil-in-water emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, hydrogel, lipogel, mono- or multiphase solution, foam, powder or mixture with at least one polymer suitable as a medical adhesive. The agents may also be presented in nearly anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm. Here, the carrier may be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils. In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion. Such water-in-oil emulsions can be formulated to have a higher viscosity so that they are carefully sized into the skin. This supports the effect of the compositions of the invention. However, low-viscous water-in-oil emulsions can also be formulated just as well, in particular based on the polymeric water-in-oil emulsifier PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, obtainable by way of example. B. under the trade name Arlacel P 135 from Uniqema. In particular, with the help of this emulsifier sprayable water-in-oil emulsions can be formulated.

According to a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention further contains at least one auxiliary and / or additive selected from Thickeners and inorganic or organic UV filter substances. Further preferred additives are antioxidants, preservatives, solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, adsorbents and fillers such as talc and Veegum ^®, perfume oils, pigments and dyes for coloring the composition, substances for adjusting the pH Value, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, pentane, isopentane, isobutane, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the at least one antioxidant peptide according to claim 1 is encapsulated in liposomes. This has the advantage that the penetration through the epidemic into the dermis and into the fibroblasts therein can be done particularly well.

1. a) eine Länge von drei bis sechzehn Aminosäuren besitzen,
2. b) mindestens eine positive Nettoladung (bei pH 7,2) aufweisen und
3. c) mindestens zwei Aminosäuren mit aromatischen Seitenketten aufweisen, von denen mindestens eine Aminosäure ausgewählt ist aus Trp, Tyr, 2'-Methyltyrosin, 6'-Methyltyrosin, 2',6'-Dimethyltyrosin (Dmt), N,2',6'-Trimethyltyrosin (Tmt) oder 2'-Hydroxy-6'-Methyltyrosin (Hmt).

Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of at least one peptide to combat skin aging, to protect the skin from damage by ultraviolet and / or infrared radiation, to improve the elasticity of the skin and / or to reduce and / or Prevention of wrinkling, characterized in that the peptide is selected from peptides which

1. a) have a length of three to sixteen amino acids,
2. b) have at least one net positive charge (at pH 7.2) and
3. c) have at least two amino acids with aromatic side chains, of which at least one amino acid is selected from Trp, Tyr, 2'-methyl tyrosine, 6'-methyl tyrosine, 2 ', 6'-dimethyl tyrosine (Dmt), N, 2', 6 ' Trimethyltyrosine (Tmt) or 2'-hydroxy-6'-methyltyrosine (Hmt).

• a) eine Länge von drei bis sechzehn Aminosäuren besitzen,
• b) mindestens eine positive Nettoladung (bei pH 7,2) aufweisen und
• c) mindestens zwei Aminosäuren mit aromatischen Seitenketten aufweisen, von denen mindestens eine Aminosäure ausgewählt ist aus Tyr, 2'-Methyltyrosin, 6'-Methyltyrosin, 2',6'-Dimethyltyrosin (Dmt), N,2',6'-Trimethyltyrosin (Tmt) oder 2'-Hydroxy-6'-Methyltyrosin (Hmt).

Another object of the present invention is the use of at least one peptide for preparing a composition for combating skin aging, for protecting the skin from damage by ultraviolet and / or infrared radiation, for improving the elasticity of the skin and / or for reducing and / or preventing wrinkling, characterized in that the peptide is selected from peptides which

• a) have a length of three to sixteen amino acids,
• b) have at least one net positive charge (at pH 7.2) and
• c) have at least two amino acids with aromatic side chains, of which at least one amino acid is selected from Tyr, 2'-methyl tyrosine, 6'-methyl tyrosine, 2 ', 6'-dimethyl tyrosine (Dmt), N, 2', 6'-trimethyl tyrosine (Tmt) or 2'-hydroxy-6'-methyltyrosine (Hmt).

With regard to preferred embodiments, the statements made on the compositions according to the invention apply mutatis mutandis to the uses according to the invention.

In particular, the above-described compositions according to the invention are used to combat skin aging, to protect the skin from damage by ultraviolet and / or infrared radiation, to improve the elasticity of the skin and / or to reduce and / or prevent the formation of wrinkles or to produce a composition Combating the Skin aging, used to protect the skin from damage by ultraviolet and / or infrared radiation, to improve the elasticity of the skin and / or to reduce and / or prevent wrinkling.

The following formulation examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it thereto.

All amounts are in wt .-%, based on the total composition.

1. Oil-in-water emulsions

1st example series: 1 2 3 safflower oil 3.00 3.00 3.00 Myritol 318 5.00 5.00 5.00 Novata AB 2.00 2.00 2.00 Lanette 22 1.00 1.00 1.00 Cutina MD 2.00 2.00 2.00 Stenol 1618 1.00 1.00 1.00 Baysilon M350 1.00 1.00 1.00 Controx KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dry Flo Plus 1.00 2.00 3.00 propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 Glycerine 5.00 3.00 3.00 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 phenoxyethanol 0.9 0.5 0.9 Herbasol distillate sage 1.0 - 1.0 Herbasol distillate witch hazel 1.0 - 1.0 D-panthenol 0.7 0.525 0.6 Hydroglycolic Extract of Ginseng - 0.45 - DSH-C N 5.0 3.0 - (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ 0.01 0.10 0.1 Perfume 0.10 0.10 0.10 Aqua ad. 100 ad. 100 ad. 100 2nd example series: 1 2 3 4 Lipoid S75-3 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 tocopheryl acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Cutina MD 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Lanette 22 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Baysilone M 350 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dow Corning 9040 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 glycerin 4.50 3.00 3.00 3.00 hexanediol 6.00 3.00 - 3.00 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Tego Carbomer 140 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 DS HCN 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Simulgel NS 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 Ti02 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Herbasol distillate sage - 1.0 - - Herbasol distillate witch hazel - 1.0 - - D-panthenol - 0.525 0.3 0.3 Hydroglycolic Extract of Ginseng - - 0.45 0.45 (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ 0.001 0.1 0.01 0.01 water ad100 ad100 ad100 ad100 3rd example series: 1 2 3 Sisterna SP30-C 2.0 2.0 2.0 Sisterna SP70-C 0.8 0.8 0.8 Propylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.2 methylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.2 ethanol 5.0 3.0 - Dry Flo Plus 1.0 1.0 1.0 Perfume 0.3 0.3 0.3 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.0 1.0 1.0 Fucogel 1000 2.0 1.0 0.5 Herbasol distillate sage 1.0 0.5 1.0 Herbasol distillate witch hazel 1.0 0.5 - D-panthenol 0.7 - - Herbasol distillate white tea - 0.5 0.5 Hydroglycolic Extract of Ginseng - 0.45 0.45 Spirulina Extract 3002 1.00 1.00 1.00 DSH-C N 5.0 3.0 - Keltrol SF 0.2 - 0.2 Aristoflex AVC - 0.5 - 1,6-hexanediol 5.0 - - glycerin 10.0 5.0 10.0 Dow Corning 200 Fluid 7.0 - - Dow Corning 245 - 5.0 5.0 Cetiol 868 2.0 - 2.0 Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ 0.001 0.01 0.1 Perfume 0.3 0.3 0.3 water ad100 ad100 ad100 4th example series: 1 2 3 Dow Corning 245 Fluid 25 25 25 Abil EM 90 2 2 2 Belsil DM 100 2.5 2.5 2.5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 2 2.5 2 glycerin 5 5 5 NaCl 2 2.1 2 Symdiol 68 0.5 0.5 0.5 phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.4 D-panthenol 0.45 0.45 0.45 D, I-alpha-bisabolol 0.1 0.1 0.1 Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ 0.001 0.01 0.1 Perfume 0.3 0.3 0.3 water ad100 ad100 ad100 5th example series: 1 2 3 Montanov 202 5.0 5.0 5.0 Cutina MD 2.0 2.0 2.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.0 1.0 1.0 Cetiol B 9.0 9.0 9.0 Controx KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 Dow Corning 245 - 7.0 3.0 Dow Corning 9040 1.0 1.0 - Perfume 0.3 0.3 0.3 Fucogel 1000 - 2.0 - Herbasol distillate sage - - 1.0 Herbasol distillate witch hazel - - 1.0 D-panthenol - 0.7 0.7 Herbasol distillate white tea - 0.5 - Hydroglycolic Extract of Ginseng - 0.45 - DSH-C N 5.0 5.0 - Keltrol SF - 0.2 0.2 Aristoflex AVC - - 0.5 1,6-hexanediol 6.0 6.0 - glycerin 3.0 5.0 10.0 Dow Corning 200 Fluid 7.0 7.0 - Dow Corning 245 - 5.0 3.0 Dow Corning 9040 1.0 - 1.0 propylene glycol 2.0 2.0 - water ad100 ad100 ad100 Tego carbomer 0.3 0.3 0.3 Dry Flo Plus 1.0 1.0 1.0 Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ 0.001 0.01 0.1 6th example series: 1 2 3 Glucamate SSE-20 2.0 2.0 2.0 Sympatens-BS / 080 2.0 2.0 2.0 Dry Flo Plus - 1.0 1.0 Perfume 0.3 0.3 0.3 Silicone oil 350 0.3 0.3 - Cutina MD 2.0 2.0 2.0 paraffin oil 2.0 1.0 - Cetearyl Alcohol 1.0 1.5 1.25 Caprylic / capric acid triglyceride - 3.5 3.0 Herbasol distillate sage 1.0 - 1.0 Herbasol distillate witch hazel 1.0 - 1.0 D-panthenol 0.7 - 1.0 D, I-bisabolol 0.1 0.1 - phenoxyethanol 0.98 0.5 0.9 Symdiol 68 - 0.5 - DSH-C N - 5.0 - Keltrol SF - - 0.2 Aristoflex AVC - 0.5 0.5 1,6-hexanediol - 5.0 5.0 glycerin 2.0 5.0 10.0 Culminal MHPC 100 0.1 0.1 0.1 propylene glycol 2.0 5.0 3.0 Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ 0.001 0.01 0.1 water ad100 ad100 ad100 7. Skin creams
Compositions 1-4 are preferred embodiments of protective day creams. 1 2 3 4 safflower oil 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Myritol 318 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Novata AB 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Behenyl alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Cutina MD 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 isopropyl 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Shea butter 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Baysilone oil M 350 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Controx KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dow Corning 1501 Fluid 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Dry Flo Plus 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 TiO ₂ 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 hexanediol 6.00 3.00 - - propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 glycerol 5.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Tego carbomer 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.001 Caomint 1.00 0.50 2.00 - Calmosensine 1.00 2.00 - 2.00 Symdiol 68 0.30 0.50 - - DSH CN 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Hydro Vance 4.30 2.50 8.60 10.00 Kombuchka 3.00 - - 3.00 Glistin - 2.00 - - Natrulon RC 50 DG - - 1.00 - Phytokine 2.00 1.50 2.00 2.00 Ridulisse C 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Liftiline 2.00 3.00 2.00 3.00 Matrixyl 3000 - 2.00 - - Perfume 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 8. Skin creams:
Compositions 1-3 are further preferred embodiments of protective day creams for particularly demanding skin containing anti-aging agents. 1 2 3 Cetearyl Isononanoate 4.00 4.00 4.00 Mineral oil 6.00 6.00 6.00 Cutina CBS 2.00 2.00 2.00 Palmitic Acid / Stearic Acid 1.50 1.50 1.50 Eumulgin B3 1.00 1.00 1.00 Baysilone oil M 350 1.00 1.00 1.00 Tocopheryl acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 Propylparaben 0.30 0.30 0.30 Pemulen TR 1 0.27 0.27 0.27 glycerin 5.00 3.00 3.00 Lactic Acid 80% 0.26 0.26 0.26 propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 methylparaben 0.30 0.30 0.30 phenoxyethanol 0.90 0.90 0.90 Phytokine 2.00 1.50 2.00 Ridulisse C 0.50 0.50 0.50 Liftiline 2.00 3.00 2.00 Sepigel 305 0.50 0.50 0.50 (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ 0.1 0,025 0.001 taurine 1.00 0.50 2.00 Calmosensine 1.00 2.00 - Keltrol SF 0.20 0.20 0.20 N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea 4.30 2.50 8.60 Perfume 0.30 0.30 0.30 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 1.00 - 1.00 Keratec Pep - 2.00 - creatine - - 1.00 retinol 0.10 - - deliner - 2.00 - water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 9. Day creams:
Compositions 1-5 are preferred embodiments of protective day creams for particularly demanding skin containing anti-aging agents. 1 2 3 4 5 Lipoid S 75-3 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Isopropylstearate 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Dibutyl adipate 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Tocopheryl acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Cutina MD 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Behenyl alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Baysilone oil M 350 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dow Corning 9040 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 glycerol 3.00 4.50 3.00 3.00 3.00 hexanediol 6.00 3.00 - - 4.00 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Tego carbomer 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 Algae Extract 1.00 - - - - Photo Somes 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dimethylmethoxy chromanol 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Phytokine 2.00 1.50 2.00 2.00 1.50 Ridulisse C 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Liftiline 2.00 3.00 2.00 2.00 3.00 DMT (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH2 0.01 0.10 0,050 0.01 0.0020 Calmosensine 1.00 2.00 - 1.00 1.00 Kombuchka 3.00 3.00 - - 2.00 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate - - 1.00 1.00 1.00 Natrulon RC50DG - - - - 1.00 deliner - - 2.00 1.00 - Matrixyl 3000 1.00 1.00 - - 1.00 Simulgel NS 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 Sodium benzoate - 0.20 0.50 - - phenoxyethanol 0.50 - - - - Symdiol 68 0.30 0.50 0.30 - - TiO ₂ 0.50 0.50 - - - Hydro Vance 2.50 4.30 8.60 8.60 8.60 Silymarin phytosome 0.30 - - - 0.50 Ectoin 0.50 - 0.50 0.50 0.50 Vitamin B6 - - 0.01 0.01 0.01 Perfume 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 10. Care creams
Compositions 1-6 are preferred embodiments of protective care creams of gel-like consistency. 1 2 3 4 5 6 2-ethylhexyl palmitate 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Dow Corning 1403 Fluid 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Synperonic PE L 64 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Dow Corning 9040 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 dipropylene 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Tego Carbomer 140 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 Perfume 0.35 0.30 0.35 0.35 0.30 0.30 Phenoxyethanol, pure 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 Natrulon RC-50DG - 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 Menthyl lactate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Ethanol 96% DEP denatured 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Caffeine anhydrous 0.50 - 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Ridulisse C - - - 0.50 - - Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ 0.0050 0.0050 0.0050 0.01 0.01 0.01 Simulgel NS 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 Matrixyl - - - - 2.00 - Matrixyl 3000 - - - - - 2.00 Sodium hydroxide beads 0.081 0.081 0.081 0.081 0.081 0.081 Water, demineralized ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 11. Compositions 1-5 are preferred embodiments of protective day creams with higher sunscreen (SPF ca. 10-15) for particularly demanding skin containing anti-aging agents. 1 2 3 4 5 Montanov 68 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Myritol 318 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Cetiol SB 45 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Novata AB 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Stenol 1618 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Baysilon M350 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 tocopheryl acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Controx KS 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Parsol SLX - 4.00 4.00 - - Parsol HS - 2.00 2.00 2.00 - Neo Heliopan AP - - - 1.00 - Parsol 340 - - - 5.00 - Uvinul MBC 95 2.00 - - - - Parsol 1789 1.00 1.80 1.80 - - Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Tego Carbomer 140 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 1,6-hexanediol 6.00 6.00 3.00 6.00 - talc 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 glycerin 4.50 4.50 3.00 4.50 3.00 Dry Flo Plus 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Natipide 2 PG 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 phenoxyethanol 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ 0.01 0.0050 0.01 0.01 0.01 carnitine - 0.10 0.50 - - Matrixyl 3000 1.00 - - 4.00 2.00 Ridulisse C - - 3.00 - 0.50 Perfume 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 12. Water-in-oil emulsion
Compositions 1-3 are preferred embodiments of protective creams based on a rich water-in-oil emulsion that can be massaged into the skin thereby producing an added bonus effect. 1 2 3 Lameform TGI 3.00 3.00 3.00 Elfacos ST 37 0.50 0.50 0.50 Microcrystalline wax 3.00 3.00 3.00 Softisan 649 1.00 1.00 1.00 paraffin oil 8.00 8.00 8.00 vaseline 2.00 2.00 2.00 Vitamin E acetate 2.00 2.00 2.00 methylparaben 0.30 0.30 0.30 Propylparaben 0.30 0.30 0.30 isopropyl 8.00 8.00 8.00 1,3-butylene glycol 5.00 6.00 7.00 Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ 0.0050 0.01 0.01 carnitine - 0.10 0.50 Lactic acid 80% 0.60 0.60 0.60 panthenol 0.5 1.0 0.5 Tephrosia pupurea seed extract 0.1 - - Hydro Vance 2.00 4.00 - Perfume 0.2 0.2 0.2 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 13. Compositions 1-3 are preferred embodiments of protective face lotions which are preferably applied to the skin with a pad, wad or wipe. 1 2 3 dipropylene 10.00 10.00 10.00 Chlorhexidindigluconat 1.00 1.00 1.00 Synperonic PE7 L 64 3.00 3.00 3.00 D-panthenol 0.50 0.50 0.50 Hydagen CMF 3.00 3.00 3.00 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Trideceth 9 / Propylene Glycol 0.50 0.50 0.50 Caomint 0.50 0.50 0.50 (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ 0.01 0.0025 0.0050 Ridulisse C 1.00 - - Fucogel 1000 - - 1.00 betaine - 1.00 - Perfume 0.20 0.20 0.20 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 14. Compositions 1-3 are preferred embodiments of protective creams based on a rich yet non-greasy water-in-silicone emulsion which can be massaged into the skin. 1 2 3 Belsil DM 100 2.50 2.50 2.50 Dow Corning 245 Fluid 25,00 25,00 25,00 Abil EM 90 2.00 2.00 2.00 sodium chloride 2.00 2.00 2.00 Symdiol 68 0.30 0.30 0.30 phenoxyethanol 0.40 0.40 0.40 (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ 0.01 0.01 0.01 Ridulisse C - 2.00 1.00 Rhamnosoft 2.00 - - Hydro Vance - 3.00 - folic acid - - 0.10 Perfume 0.30 0.30 0.30 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 15th example series:
Compositions 1-4 are preferred embodiments of protective day creams for particularly demanding skin with an increased content of various anti-aging agents. 1 2 3 4 safflower oil 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Myritol 318 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Novata AB 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Behenyl alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Cutina MD 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 isopropyl 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Shea butter 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Baysilone oil M 350 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Controx KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dow Corning 1501 Fluid 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Dry Flo Plus 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 TiO ₂ 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 hexanediol 6.00 3.00 - - propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 glycerol 5.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Tego carbomer 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 seaweed extract 1.00 - - - Symdiol 68 0.30 0.50 - - DSH CN 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Hydro Vance 4.30 2.50 8.60 10.00 Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ 0.01 0.02 0,015 0.02 Natrulon RC 50 DG - - 1.00 - Phytokine 2.00 - - - Matrixyl 3000 - 2.00 - - Ridulisse C - - 2.00 2.50 Argireline 1.00 - - - Sepilift DPHP - 0.10 - - Ederline H 2.00 - - - Perfume 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 16th day cream:
The following composition is another preferred embodiment of a protective composition of the invention. Lipoid S 75-3 1.000000 isopropyl 2.000000 Cetiol B 4.000000 Vitamin E acetate 0.500000 Cutina MD 1.000000 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.500000 NOVATA FROM PH 0.500000 behenyl 3.500000 Silicone oil 350 cs 1.500000 Propylparaben 0.200000 Dow Corning 9040 2.000000 Glycerin 86% 8.000000 1,6-hexanediol 6.000000 methylparaben 0.200000 talc 3.000000 Tego Carbomer 140 0.400000 Hydroglycolic Extract of Caviar 1.000000 DMT (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH2 0.00500000 Ederline L 1.000000 DSH-C N 3.000000 Photo Somes 0.200000 Lipochroman-6 0.010000 1,2-propanediol 4.000000 Matrixyl 3000 3.000000 Phenoxyethanol, pure 0.400000 Perfume 0.200000 RONASPHERELDP 1.000000 FD & C Yellow No. 6 0.000700 Simulgel NS 1.500000 sodium hydroxide 0.040000 Water, demineralized ad 100,00000 17th night cream:
The following composition is another preferred embodiment of a protective composition of the invention. Montanov 68 3.000000 Caprylic / capric acid triglyceride 2.000000 Cetiol SN 8.000000 Refined safflower oil 3.500000 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.500000 Cutina MD 1.700000 behenyl 3.000000 Cetiol SB 45 4.000000 NOVATA FROM PH 0.500000 Silicone oil 350 cs 2.500000 Controx KS 0.050000 Propylparaben 0.200000 Glycerin 86% 9.000000 1,6-hexanediol 6.000000 methylparaben 0.200000 Tego Carbomer 140 0.300000 Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ 0.020000 Phenoxyethanol, pure 0.400000 Ultrasomes 0.100000 Matrixyl 3000 3.000000 Perfume 0.100000 FD & C Yellow No. 6 0.000700 aluminum starch octenylsuccinate 1.800000 Simulgel EPG 0.400000 sodium hydroxide 0.031000 Water, demineralized ad 100,000000 18. Skin creams based on a lipoprotein cream
The compositions 1-6 are preferred embodiments of protective creams with particular skin tolerance and a content of various anti-aging active ingredients, based on a particularly mild emulsion base with a natural protein-emulsifier (HIBISCIN HP ^® LS 9198). 1 2 3 4 5 6 Myritol ^® PC 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 Lanette ^® 22 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Cutina ^® GMS-V 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Stenol ^® 16/18 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 safflower oil 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Controx ^® KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Baysilon ^® M350 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 isopropyl 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 Propylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 1,3-butylene glycol 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 1,6-hexanediol 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 methylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 HIBISCIN ^® HP LS 9198 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 citric acid 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Simulgel ^® NS 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Pearl Protein Extract - - 2.00 - - 1.00 (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ 0.02 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 Ridulisse C 1.00 0.50 1.00 - - - carnitine 0.20 - - 0.50 0.30 0.30 Matrixyl 3000 3.00 - - - 2.00 - Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 19. Cleaning preparations: 1 2 3 dipropylene 10.00 10.00 10.00 Chlorhexidindigluconat 1.00 1.00 1.00 Synperonic PE7L 64 3.00 3.00 3.00 D-panthenol 0.50 0.50 0.50 Hydagen CMF 3.00 3.00 3.00 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Trideceth 9 / Propylene Glycol 0.50 0.50 0.50 (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ 0.005 0.01 0.1 Scents 0.20 0.20 0.20 Aqua ad. 100 ad. 100 ad. 100 20. Cleansing gels with protective effect:
Compositions 1-3 are preferred embodiments of cleansing gels having a protective effect to complete skin care. 1 2 3 Carbomer 1.40 1.40 1.40 1,3-butylene glycol 4.00 4.00 4.00 Sodium benzoate 0.40 0.40 0.40 Plantar ^® 1200 7.50 7.50 7.50 Dehyton ^® K 3.40 3.40 3.40 Texapon.RTM ^® SB 3 5.00 5.00 5.00 Cetiol ^® HE 0.50 0.50 0.50 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 5.00 5.00 5.00 Controx KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid 1.60 1.60 - Pantolactone 1.00 1.00 - Tetrasodium EDTA 0.25 0.25 0.25 Sodium lactate 1.80 panthenol 0.50 0.50 0.50 Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ 0.01 0.01 0.01 Ridulisse C 1.00 - - carnitine 0.20 - 0.20 Perfume 0.40 0.40 0.40 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 21. Examples of compositions for soaking wipes ingredients 1 2 3 4 Phase 1 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.1 0.1 0.1 - Trideceth-9 0.1 0.1 0.1 - Perfume 0.3 0.1 0.1 0.1 Phase 2 hexyl laurate 2.0 - - - dicaprylyl - - 2.0 - dipropylene - 2.0 - - Phase 3 allantoin 0.5 - - - Citric acid (monohydrate) 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Trisodium citrate (dihydrate) 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 decyl glucoside - - - 2.0 Pemulen TR 1 - - - 0.2 Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ 0.03 0.02 0,003 0.01 Ridulisse C 1.00 0.50 1.00 - carnitine 0.20 - - 0.50 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

Various viscose nonwovens were equipped with these impregnating compositions. Perforated, unperforated, dimpled, single-ply, two-ply and three-ply nonwovens were finished. The wipes were both wet wipes and dry wipes (that is, after finishing, the wipes were dried to a residual water content of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, in order to use just before use Amount of water to be re-wetted or applied to damp skin). Matrix plaster with protective effect 1 2 3 4 5 DURO-TAK ^® 387-2516 76 76 76 76 76 Aloe vera gel 1 - 1 - - Propylenglycolmonooleat 5 5 - - - Tween ^® -80 - - 5 3 5 sodium citrate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Controx ^® KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.01 0.03 Ridulisse C 1.00 0.50 1.00 - - carnitine 0.20 - - 0.50 0.30 Matrixyl 3000 3.00 - - - 2.00 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Components of the drug reservoir 1 2 (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ 0.02 0.03 Ultrasomes 1.0 1.0 Ridulisse C - 0.50 carnitine 0.50 - Ederline H 1.0 1.0 Carbopol ^® 980 0.5 - Pemulen ^® TR 1 - 0.5 NaOH 0.1 0.1 Titanium dioxide 0.2 0.2 ethanol 1.0 1.0 polyvinyl alcohol 2.0 1.0 Carboxymethylcellu loose 1.0 0.5 glycerin 10 20 sorbitol 7.0 5.0 1,3-butanediol 3.0 3.0 Tween ^® -80 0.05 0.05 paraffin oil 5.0 2.0 sodium citrate 0.1 0.1 Controx KS 0.05 0.05 water ad 100 ad 100

The components of the drug reservoir formulations No. 1 and 2 were mixed together to form a gel-like mass. With this mass paving carriers were coated so that so-called reservoir plasters were obtained. These patches are applied to both dry skin and moisturized skin, where they remain for a few seconds to a few hours.

The following formulations are preferred examples of protective body creams according to the invention: Paraffin Liquidum 20.00 20.00 Arlacel 165 4.00 4.00 Eutanol G 1.00 1.00 Cetiol SN 1.50 1.50 Cremophor A 6 2.00 2.00 behenyl 1.60 1.60 Silicone oil 350 cs 3.00 3.00 Brij 721 VP 0.40 0.40 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 Controx KS 0.25 0.25 1,2-propanediol 3.00 3.00 Glycerin 86% vegetable 5.00 5.00 Polyethylene glycol MG 400 1.70 1.70 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 Phenoxyethanol, pure 0.50 0.50 Carbopol ETD 2020 0.50 0.50 sodium hydroxide 0.03 0.03 Citric acid monohydrate 0.10 0.10 Trisodium citrate dihydrate 0.10 0.10 (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ 0.03 0.03 Sensiva SC 50 (octoxyglycerol) 0.50 0.50 carnitine 0.20 0.20 ergothioneine - 0.10 Perfume 0.30 0.30 Simulgel NS 1.00 1.00 water ad 100.00 ad 100.00 List of raw materials used trade name INCI name Supplier / Manufacturer Abil EM 90 CETYL PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE Degussa Argireline Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 Lipotec Arlacel 165 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate Uniqema Aristoflex AVC Ammonium acryloly-dimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, t-butyl-alcohol Clariant Baysilone oil M 350 Dimethicone GE Bayer Silicones Belsil DM 100 Dimethicone brave Brij 721 STEARETH-21 Uniqema Calmosensine BUTYLENE GLYCOL, WATER, LAURETH-3, HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester Sederma Caomint PROPYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA (WATER), MENTHA PIPERITA (PEPPERMINT) LEAF EXTRACT, THEOBROMA CACAO (COCOA) EXTRACT Solatia Carbopol 980 Carbomer Noveon Carbopol ETD 2020 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Noveon Cetiol ^® 868 Ethylhexyl stearate (vegetable base) Cog nis Cetiol ^® B Dibutyl adipate Cog nis Cetiol ^® HE PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate Cognis Cetiol ^® SB 45 Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter) Cognis Cetiol ^® SN Cetearyl Isononanoate Cognis Controx KS Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate Cog nis Cremophor A 6 CETEARETH-6, STEARYL ALCOHOL BASF Culminal MHPC 100 hydroxypropyl methylcellulose Hercules Cutina CBS Glyceryl Stearate / Cetearyl Alcohol / Cetyl Alpitate / Cocoglycerides in the weight ratio 7: 1: 1: 1 Cog nis Cutina GMS-V Glyceryl stearate (mixture of glyceryl mono- and distearate) Cog nis Cutina MD Glyceryl stearate (mixture of glyceryl mono- and distearate) Cog nis Dehyton K. AQUA (WATER), COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE (29-32% by weight) Cog nis deliner Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan gum Coletica Dow Corning 1403 Fluid Cyclomethicones (86-88% by weight), dimethiconol (12-14% by weight) Dow Corning Dow Corning 1501 Fluid Cyclomethicones (85-86% by weight), dimethiconol (14-15% by weight) Dow Corning Dow Corning 200 Fluid Dimethicone Dow Corning Dow Corning 9040 Cyclomethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer (87-88% / 12-13%) Dow Corning Dow ^Corning® 245 Fluid Cyclomethicone Dow Corning Dry Flo Plus Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate National Starch DSH CN Water, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate Exsymol DURO-TAK ^® 387-2516 Polyacrylates, ethylcellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone National Starch and Chemical Ederline H PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract Sporga Ederline L Hexyl Decanol, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract Seporga Elfacos ST 37 PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer Akzo Nobel Eumulgin B 3 Ceteareth-30 Cog nis Eutanol G octyldodecanol Cog nis Fucogel 1000 Biosaccharides Gum-1 Solatia Glistin Water, L-Glutamylaminoethyl indole Exsymol Glucamate Sse-20 PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate Noveon Herbasol distillate sage Propylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), Saliva Officinalis (SAGE) Leaf Extract Cosmetochem Herbasol distillate witch hazel Aqua (Water), Alcohol denat., Hamamelis Virginia, Benzoic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Diethyl phthalate, Cosmetochem Herbasol distillate white tea Propylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Cosmetochem HIBISCIN ^® HP-LS-9198 Water, Hibiscus esculentus seed extract, phenoxyethanol Laboratoires serobiologiques Hydagen CMF Chitosan glycolate Cog nis Hydro Vance Water, bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, urea, ammonium lactate National Starch Keltrol SF Xanthan gum Kelco Keratec Pep Water, Hydrolyzed Keratin Croda Kombuchka Saccharomyces / xylinum / Black Tea ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethylcellulose Sederma Lameform TGI Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate Cog nis Lamesoft ^® PO 65 Coco Glucosides, Glyceryl Oleate, Water Cog nis LANETTE ^® 22 Behenyl alcohol Cog nis Liftiline Aqua, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (7 - 10 wt .-% active ingredient) Silab Lipochroman 6 DIMETHYL METHOXY CHROMANOL Lipotec Lipoid S 75-3 Aqua, lecithin Lipoid GmbH Matrixyl Aqua, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 Sederma Matrixyl 3000 Glycerine, Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-1 Sederma Montanov 68 Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside Seppic Montanov 202 Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside Seppic Myritol 318 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides Cog nis MYRITOL ^® PC PROPYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE Cog nis Natipide 2 PG Aqua, Propylene glycol, lecithin Phospholipid GmbH Natrulon RC 50 DG WATER, CARNITINE, POLYGLYCERINE-10 Lonza Neo Heliopan AP Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonates Symrise Novata AB Cocoglycerides Cog nis Parsol 1789 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE DSM Parsol 340 Octocrylene DSM Parsol HS PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID DSM Parsol SLX Polysilicone-15 DSM Pearl Protein Extract Aqua, Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein Maruzen Pemulen TR 1 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Noveon Photo Somes Aqua, lecithin, plancton extract AGI Dermatics Phytokine Aqua, butylene glycol, HYDROLYZED SOY PROTEIN, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben (0.4-0.8% by weight of active substance) Coletica Plantar ^® 1200 Lauryl Glucoside, about 50% active ingredient Cog nis Rhamnosoft Biosaccharides Gum-2 Solabia Ridulisse C Water, HYDROLYZED SOY PROTEIN (3-5% by weight of active substance) Silab Ronasphere ^® LDP SILICA, Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Merck KGaA Sensiva ^® SC 50 2-ethyl hexyl glycerin Schülke & Mayr Sepigel ^® 305 Aqua (water) polyacrylamide, C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin, laureth-7 (active substance thickener polymer about 45-49% by weight) SEPPIC Sepilift DPHP Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline Seppic Sepivinol R Wine Extract (Polyphenol-rich extract of red wine) Seppic Silymarin phytosome Silybum Marianum Extract and Phospholipids Indena SpA Simulgel EPG Aqua (Water) / Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer / Polyisobutene / Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside Seppic Simulgel NS Aqua (water) / hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer / squalane / polysorbate 60 Seppic Sisterna SP 30 C Sucrosedistearate Sisterna BV Sistera SP 70 C Sucrose stearate / palmitate Sisterna BV Softisan 649 Bis-diglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2 Sasol Spirulina 3002 Water, Algae extract (Spirulina platensis) Interorgana Stenol 16/18 cetearyl Cog nis Symdiol 68 1,2-octanediol, 1,2-hexanediol Symrise Sympatens-BS / 080 Stearic acid ethoxylated (8 EO) Dr. W. Kolb Synperonic PE L 64 Poloxamer 184 Uniqema Tego Carbomer 140 Carbomer Degussa Texapon.RTM ^® SB 3 Aqua, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, (about 40% active ingredient), Citric Acid Cog nis Tween ^® -80 Polysorbate-80 Ultrasomes Aqua, Lecithin, Micrococcus Luteus Extract AGI Dermatics Uvinul MBC 95 4-METHYLBENZYLIDENE CAMPHOR BASF

Claims (14)

Composition containing
at least one peptide selected from peptides which a) have a length of three to sixteen amino acids and b) have at least one net positive charge (at pH 7.2) and c) have at least two amino acids with aromatic side chains, of which at least one amino acid is selected from Tyr, 2'-methyl tyrosine, 6'-methyl tyrosine, 2 ', 6'-dimethyl tyrosine (Dmt), N, 2', 6'-trimethyl tyrosine (Tmt) or 2'-hydroxy-6'-methyltyrosine (Hmt) and 0.001 to 95% by weight of water. A composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the peptide has a length of four to twelve, preferably from four to eight amino acids. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the peptide contains at least one D-amino acid. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the C-terminal carboxyl group of the amino acid is amidated at the C-terminus. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the ratio of the number of aromatic side-chain amino acids to the number of positive net charges of the peptide is from 0.3 to 3, preferably from 0.6 to 2. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the peptide comprises the amino acid sequence Xxx-Lys, the amino acid Xxx being selected from Phe, 2 ', 6'-dimethylphenylalanine (Dmp), Trp, Tyr, 2'-methyltyrosine , 6'-methyl tyrosine, 2 ', 6'-dimethyl tyrosine (Dmt), N, 2', 6'-trimethyl tyrosine (Tmt) or 2'-hydroxy-6'-methyl tyrosine (Hmt). Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the peptide has an alternating sequence of amino acids with side chains positively charged at pH 7.2 and aromatic side chain amino acids. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the peptide is chosen from peptides having the amino acid sequences (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ , Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ , Tyr- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ , Phe- (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-NH ₂ and 2 ', 6'-Dmp- (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys- NH ₂ , in particular (D-Arg) -Dmt-Lys-Phe-NH ₂ and Dmt- (D-Arg) -Phe-Lys-NH ₂ . Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the at least one peptide is present in a concentration of from 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, is included. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the at least one peptide is encapsulated in liposomes. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains at least one further active substance selected from aporphine alkaloids, purine and / or purine derivatives, natural betaine compounds, alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea compounds, monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids , NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, and mixtures of these active ingredients. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one further active ingredient selected from retinoids, in particular retinol and C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol, oleanolic acid, oleanol, creatine, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of at least one peptide to combat skin aging, to protect the skin from damage by ultraviolet and / or infrared radiation, to improve the elasticity of the skin and / or to reduce and / or prevent wrinkling, characterized in that the peptide is selected from peptides which a) have a length of three to sixteen amino acids and b) have at least one net positive charge (at pH 7.2) and c) have at least two amino acids with aromatic side chains, of which at least one amino acid is selected from Trp, Tyr, 2'-methyl tyrosine, 6'-methyl tyrosine, 2 ', 6'-dimethyl tyrosine (Dmt), N, 2', 6 ' Trimethyltyrosine (Tmt) or 2'-hydroxy-6'-methyltyrosine (Hmt). Use of at least one peptide for the preparation of a composition for combating skin aging, for protecting the skin from damage by ultraviolet and / or infrared radiation, for improving the elasticity of the skin and / or for reducing and / or preventing wrinkling, characterized in that Peptide is selected from peptides, which a) have a length of three to sixteen amino acids and b) have at least one net positive charge (at pH 7.2) and c) have at least two amino acids with aromatic side chains, of which at least one amino acid is selected from Tyr, 2'-methyl tyrosine, 6'-methyl tyrosine, 2 ', 6'-dimethyl tyrosine (Dmt), N, 2', 6'-trimethyl tyrosine (Tmt) or 2'-hydroxy-6'-methyltyrosine (Hmt).