DE102011084904A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological composition useful e.g. for topical treatment of skin, comprises e.g. fermentation product of Arundinaria gigantea and purine or its derivatives, natural betaine compounds and polysaccharides, in a carrier - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises at least one fermentation product of Arundinaria giganteaand (a) purine or purine derivatives, (b) natural betaine compounds, (c) urea or alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl substituted urea, (d) monomers, oligomers or polymers of amino acids, nitrogen-acyl amino acids with 2-24C, their esters and/or their salts, (e) polysaccharides, and/or (f) hyperaemizing active substances, in a carrier. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. No biological data given. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present invention relates to topically applied cosmetic compositions for tightening and smoothing the skin.

The body awareness of consumers has increased significantly in recent years, as shown by the increase in the consumption of cosmetic compositions. In addition to compositions for cleansing and nourishing application increasingly cosmetic compositions are in demand, which help to improve the body silhouette.

Means and treatment methods for tightening and smoothing the skin are an important cosmetic challenge. These compositions have a need for ingredients that give the preparations further benefits, be it from an application point of view, from a manufacturing point of view or from the point of view of the consumer, who develops an improved subjective feeling towards the cosmetic product, for example because of certain ingredients. The focus of the performance of an ingredient may also vary depending on the cosmetic agent. Thus, one and the same substance in a shampoo or conditioner can provide nourishing properties for the treated hair, while in a hair dye it also reduces the color of the scalp or compensates for the sometimes aggressive effect of the colorant.

In addition to the lasting effect, which ideally occurs immediately noticeable, the consumer expects an aesthetically optimized product. Cosmetics for firming and smoothing the skin often have the disadvantage that they appear tenacious and sticky to the consumer and cause an unpleasant feeling on the skin during application. This unpleasant skin sensation is accompanied by an individual perception of poor product performance on a rough skin surface. Skin-tightening compositions must therefore also smooth the skin surface in order to be perceived as a powerful product. The smoothing is usually realized by additional ingredients, with silicone oils play a prominent role. However, the use of other substances is less desirable for cost reasons, and some consumers are critical of the use of silicones.

An object of the present invention was to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, it was an object of the present invention to provide cosmetic compositions which have a pleasant product feel, in which removal and application have a pleasant feel on the skin and allow an immediate firming of the skin. The tightening and smoothing of the skin should, if possible, be achieved through an active ingredient complex and the use of silicone oils should be avoided.

It has now been found that instant tightening effects can be achieved with simultaneous smoothing of the skin when certain fermentation products of bamboo are combined with other ingredients.

• a) Purin und Purin-Derivaten,
• b) natürlichen Betainverbindungen,
• c) Harnstoff und alkyl- oder hydroxyalkylsubstituierten Harnstoffen,
• d) Monomeren, Oligomeren und Polymeren von Aminosäuren, N-C₂-C₂₄-Acylaminosäuren und/oder den Estern und/oder den physiologisch verträglichen Salzen dieser Substanzen,
• e) Polysacchariden,
• f) hyperämisierenden Wirkstoffen, sowie
• g) Mischungen der Substanzen a)–f).

The present invention relates in a first embodiment to a cosmetic or dermatological composition for the topical treatment of the skin, comprising, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, at least one fermentation product of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one further active ingredient selected from

• a) purine and purine derivatives,
• b) natural betaine compounds,
• c) urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas,
• d) monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances,
• e) polysaccharides,
• f) hyperemic agents, as well as
• g) mixtures of substances a) -f).

The compositions according to the invention contain as the first essential ingredient a fermentation product of Arundarinaria gigantea. Arundinaria gigantea is a species in the genus Arundinaria which contains 50 species and belongs to the family of the Poaceae (Grass Family). Fermentation or fermentation (lat. Fermentum "fermentation") in the context of the present application, the conversion of organic substances by bacterial, fungal, other biological cell cultures or by an enzyme.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain a product of the bacterial conversion of Arundinaria gigantea. Here, bacteria of the genus Lactobacillus are particularly preferred, so that preferred compositions are characterized in that the fermentation product of Arundarinaria gigantea was obtained by fermentation of parts of plants with Lactobacillus.

Lactobacillaceae form a family of Gram-positive bacteria of the order Lactobacillales. By fermentation, they produce lactic acid and thus belong to the lactic acid bacteria. To the lactic acid bacteria still some further families are put, in the systematics they are united in the order of the Lactobacillales. Previously, the species Bifidobacterium bifidum was added to the Lactobacilli (Lactobacillus bifidum), according to the current state, it is phylogenetically in close connection with the order. Regarding the metabolism, however, it will continue to be treated as a lactic acid bacterium.

The species of this family are important to the food industry. They are used for the production of dairy products, but can also occur as pests (eg in the brewery). As a rule, they do not harm humans, they are apathetic.

Three genera are currently grouped in this family: the lactobacilli (Lactobacillus), the pediococci (Pediococcus) and Paralactobacillus. The latter contains only one species: Paralactobacillus selangorensis. In addition, the genera Oenococcus, Carnobacterium, Weissella and Leuconostoc also belonged to the family Lactobacillaceae.

• – Lactobacillus delbrueckii
• – Lactobacillus acidophilus
• – Lactobacillus algidus
• – Lactobacillus brevis
• – Lactobacillus buchneri
• – Lactobacillus casei
• – Lactobacillus camelliae
• – Lactobacillus coleohominis
• – Lactobacillus crustorum
• – Lactobacillus diolivorans
• – Lactobacillus heterohiochii
• – Lactobacillus hilgardii
• – Lactobacillus kimchii
• – Lactobacillus lindneri
• – Lactobacillus oris
• – Lactobacillus pantheris
• – Lactobacillus parabuchner
• – Lactobacillus saerimneri

In the context of the present invention, fermentation products of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea are preferably used with one or more of the following bacteria:

• - Lactobacillus delbrueckii
• - Lactobacillus acidophilus
• - Lactobacillus algidus
• - Lactobacillus brevis
• - Lactobacillus buchneri
• - Lactobacillus casei
• - Lactobacillus camelliae
• - Lactobacillus coleohominis
• - Lactobacillus crustorum
• - Lactobacillus diolivorans
• - Lactobacillus heterohiochii
• - Lactobacillus hilgardii
• - Lactobacillus kimchii
• - Lactobacillus lindneri
• - Lactobacillus oris
• - Lactobacillus pantheris
• - Lactobacillus parabuchner
• - Lactobacillus saerimneri

Preferred compositions according to the invention comprise at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea, preferably at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus, in narrow quantitative ranges. Here, according to the invention preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they - based on their weight - a total amount of 0.01-20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-15 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2-10 wt. % and in particular 0.5-5 wt .-% of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea.

As a preferred further essential ingredient, the compositions according to the invention contain purine and / or at least one derivative of purine. Purine (7H-imidazo [4,5-d] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of purines. Purines, in turn, are a group of important compounds naturally involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes which are different from the parent by substitution with OH, NH ₂ , SH at the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH ₃ in 1-, 3-, 7-position derived. Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.

Preferred compositions according to the invention contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) in narrower ranges. Here, according to the invention preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they - based on their weight - a total amount of 0.001-2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01-1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1-0.8 Wt .-% and in particular 0.2-0.5 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s) included.

(PUR-I) in der die Reste R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H, -OH, -NH₂ und -SH und die Reste R⁴, R⁵ und R⁶ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H, einem C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einem C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einem (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest, einem Hydroxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylaminorest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkoxyrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-(C₁- bis C₄)-aminoalkylrest oder einem (Di-C₁- bis C₄-Alkylamino)-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Arylgruppe, insbesondere einer Phenylgruppe, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Heteroarylgruppe und einer Aryl-C₁-C₆-alkylgruppe.Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred in the present invention. Cosmetic compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (PUR-I),

(PUR-I) in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, -OH, -NH ₂ and -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl radical, a C ₁ to C ₄ monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ to C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkoxy (C ₁ to C ₄₎ alkyl group, a C ₁ - to C ₄ aminoalkyl, (a hydroxy C ₁ - to C ₄₎ alkylamino group, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -Hydroxyalkoxyrest, a C ₁ - to C ₄ hydroxyalkyl (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl or a (di-C ₁ - to C ₄ alkylamino) - (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, an optionally substituted aryl group, in particular a phenyl group, an optionally substituted heteroaryl group and an aryl-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group.

• – Purin (R¹=R²=R³=R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=H)
• – Adenin (R¹=NH₂, R²=R³=R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=H)
• – Guanin (R¹=OH, R²=NH₂, R³=R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=H)
• – Harnsäure (R¹=R²=R³=OH, R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=H)
• – Hypoxanthin (R¹=OH, R²=R³=R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=H)
• – 6-Purinthiol (R¹=SH, R²=R³=R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=H)
• – 6-Thioguanin (R¹=SH, R²=NH₂, R³=R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=H)
• – Xanthin (R¹=R²=OH, R³=R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=H)
• – Coffein (R¹=R²=OH, R³=H, R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=CH₃)
• – Theobromin (R¹=R²=OH, R³=R⁴=H, R⁵=R⁶=CH₃)
• – Theophyllin (R¹=R²=OH, R³=H, R⁴=CH₃, R⁵=CH₃, R⁶=H).

Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (PUR-I) in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, -OH , -NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ -CH ₃ , wherein the following compounds are extremely preferred:

• Purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• 6-purethiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• 6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )
• - Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )
• Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H).

(PUR-II) wobei in der Formel (PUR-II) die Reste R⁶, R⁷ und R⁸, die gleich oder verschieden sein können, bevorzugt ausgewählt sind aus einem Wasserstoffatom, einem C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einem C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einem (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest, einem Hydroxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylaminorest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkoxyrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-(C₁- bis C₄)-aminoalkylrest oder einem (Di-C₁- bis C₄-Alkylamino)-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Arylgruppe, insbesondere einer Phenylgruppe, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Heteroarylgruppe und einer Aryl-C₁-C₆-alkylgruppe, wobei Coffein (R⁶=R⁷=R⁸=CH₃), Theobromin (R⁶=H, R⁷=R⁸=CH₃) und Theophyllin (R⁶=R⁷=CH₃, R⁸=H) außerordentlich bevorzugt sind.Compounds of the general formula (PUR-I) in which R ¹ and / or R ² correspond to an OH group exist in tautomeric compounds, especially those of the general formula (PUR-II), starting from (PUR-I) with R ¹ = R ² = OH:

(PUR-II) wherein in the formula (PUR-II), the radicals R ⁶ , R ⁷ and R ⁸ , which may be the same or different, are preferably selected from a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkoxy- (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ - Aminoalkyl, a hydroxy (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkylamino, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkoxy, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) aminoalkyl or a (di -C ₁ - to C ₄ alkylamino) - (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, an optionally substituted aryl group, in particular a phenyl group, an optionally substituted heteroaryl group and an aryl-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, where caffeine ( R ⁶ = R ⁷ = R ⁸ = CH ₃ ), theobromine (R ⁶ = H, R ⁷ = R ⁸ = CH ₃ ) and theophylline (R ⁶ = R ⁷ = CH ₃ , R ⁸ = H) are extremely preferred.

(PUR-II) wobei in der Formel (PUR-II) die Reste R⁶, R⁷ und R⁸, die gleich oder verschieden sein können, ausgewählt sind aus einem Wasserstoffatom, einem C₁-C₄-Alkylrest, einem C₁-C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einem C₂-C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einem (C₁-C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁-C₄)-alkylrest, einem C₁-C₄-Aminoalkylrest, einem Hydroxy-(C₁-C₄)-alkylaminorest, einem C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkoxyrest, einem C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-(C₁-C₄)-aminoalkylrest oder einem (Di-C₁-C₄-Alkylamino)-(C₁-C₄)-alkylrest, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Arylgruppe, insbesondere einer Phenylgruppe, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Heteroarylgruppe und einer Aryl-C₁-C₆-alkylgruppe, sind erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt.Corresponding compositions according to the invention in which the purine derivative is selected from compounds of the general structure (PUR-II),

(PUR-II) wherein in the formula (PUR-II) the radicals R ⁶ , R ⁷ and R ⁸ , which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ -C ₄ monohydroxyalkyl, C ₂ -C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkoxy (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl, C ₁ -C ₄ aminoalkyl, hydroxy (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkylamino radical, a C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkoxy radical, a C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl radical or a (di-C ₁ -C ₄ -alkylamino) - ( C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, an optionally substituted aryl group, in particular a phenyl group, an optionally substituted heteroaryl group and an aryl-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group are preferred according to the invention.

Depending on the desired application of the cosmetic composition may vary the nature and amount of purine derivative. In hair cosmetic formulations and in personal care products for the anti-cellulite treatment of the skin, caffeine has proven particularly useful, for example, in shampoos preferably in amounts of 0.005 to 0.25% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight. % and in particular from 0.01 to 0.05 wt .-% (in each case based on the shampoo) and in anticellulite agents, especially creams, gels and lotions, preferably in amounts of 0.01-2 wt .-%, further preferably 0.1-1.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.2-0.8 wt .-%, in each case based on the agent, can be used.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to the at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea, they contain as further essential ingredient at least one natural betaine compound. Natural betaine compounds used according to the invention are naturally occurring compounds with the atomic grouping R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^- according to IUPAC Rule C-816.1. So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge formally on O, S, B or C. which do not comply with IUPAC Rule C-816.1. Betaine compounds preferred according to the invention are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^- ) and carnitine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^- ), each with Me = methyl.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.2 to 1 wt extremely preferably 0.3-0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

(UREA-I) in der R₁, R₂, R₃ und R₄ unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, n-Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, sek.-Butyl-, tert. Butyl- oder C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, stehen, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R₁-R₄ eine C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, darstellt.Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to the at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea, they contain as further essential ingredient at least one substance selected from urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas. Alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea compounds which are preferred according to the invention have the general formula (UREA-I)

(UREA-I) in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ -R _{4 is} a C C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups.

According to the invention, particularly preferred alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea compounds of the general formula (UREA-I) are selected from compounds in which in each case at least one of the radicals R ₁ and R ₂ or R ₃ and R _{4 is} a C ₂ -C ₆ -hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups. Particularly preferred C ₂ -C ₆ -hydroxyalkyl groups which are substituted by 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl groups are selected from 2-hydroxyethyl, 3-hydroxypropyl, 2-hydroxypropyl, 2- Hydroxyisopropyl and 4-hydroxybutyl groups, with the 2-hydroxyethyl group being highly preferred. Also highly preferred is bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea. Urea itself is also particularly preferred. It is further preferred to use mixtures of urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea compounds. Extremely preferred are mixtures of urea and bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that in addition to the at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea as further essential ingredient they contain at least one substance which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, as well as mixtures of these active ingredients.

The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, desmosine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine , Hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate , Sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate.

The C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical with which said amino acids are derivatized at the amino group is preferably selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl -, undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents.

With the aforementioned C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radicals, the amino acids which carry an OH group may also be esterified to this OH group. A preferred example of this according to the invention is hydroxyproline, which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residues, more preferably dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, which is e.g. B. Sepilift DPHP available from the company Seppic.

The physiologically acceptable salts of the preferred amino acids or amino acid derivatives according to the invention are preferably selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Particularly preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, zinc and manganese salts; most preferred are the sodium, potassium and magnesium salts.

According to the invention, amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2-30, preferably 2-15, amino acids. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Numerous of these amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit immune system cells, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then, via the release of growth factors, repair processes in the tissue, eg. B. Collagen synthesis, induce, or are able to bind to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus active TGF-β (tissue growth factor), the synthesis of collagen in dermal Fibroblasts induced to release. Such amino acid oligomers are used in the art as anti-aging agents. Their use in combination with a fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea as anti-cellulite agents is not yet known. According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val- Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-β-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester (e.g., Calmosensine from Sederma), carnosine (β-Ala-His). His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" from GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component of the product Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma. The tripeptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as a copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) and is available as such from ProCyte Corporation. Furthermore, analogues of Gly-His-Lys can be used, wherein a maximum of two amino acids are substituted by suitable other amino acids. For the substitution of Gly, Ala, Leu and Ile are suitable according to the invention. The inventively preferred amino acids that can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom that is predominantly charged at pH 6, eg. Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine. Most preferably, Lys is replaced by Arg, Orn or citrulline. A further preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, which, for. B. available under the name Collasyn 314-GR from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.; Further preferred tripeptides according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys- Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. As sold by the company Pentapharm under the name ^® SYN -COLL, Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (Tripeptide-2), Tripeptide-4 (z. ATPeptides, via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn, Gly-Asp-Ser, N-elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys, and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ .

Preference according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are selected from Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, z. B. is available under the name Eyeliss of Sederma, but also forms part of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma. The Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are rearranged and / or in which a maximum of two amino acids are substituted to Rigin, z. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a Pro or Arg, and more preferably, the Tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary. The substituting amino acids can be selected from any amino acid defined below. Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapetides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa , Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids that can substitute Gly, Xbb is selected from Gln and the amino acids that can substitute for Gln, Xcc is selected from Pro or Arg and the Amino acids that can substitute Pro and Arg.

The preferred amino acids that can replace Gly include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile).

The preferred amino acids which can replace Gln include a side chain having an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.

The preferred amino acids that can replace Arg include a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin.

As Rigin analogs according to the invention Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred. ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Gln, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups. Optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides which are preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, which can be obtained under the Matrixyl is available from Sederma, further N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly- Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for desquamation inhibition). Preferred, if appropriate, N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides according to the invention are Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly under the designation Biopeptide EL from Sederma, Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg, furthermore Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), Hexapeptide-4 (eg Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Collasyn 614VG from TPI). Hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience), and hexapeptide-10 (e.g. B. Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec), Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., modulene from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g. B. SNAP-7 from Centerchem), Hexapeptide- 2 (z. Melanostatine-DM from Vincience), Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, e.g., Peptide 02 from Vincience), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, hexapeptide-4 (eg Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI), Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine homophenylalanine Trp (hexapeptide-7), hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (e.g. Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience), hexapeptide-10 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec) and hexapeptide-11 (e.g., Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1). Another preferred amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (contained in the raw material glistin of exsymol).

An inventively particularly preferred amino acid oligomer active ingredient is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as it is available, for example, in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma.

Another preferred active ingredient according to the invention, whose presence causes an unexpected increase in the activity of the at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea, is selected from polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids.

Polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids combined according to the invention are preferably selected from plant and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, conchiolin and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolysates, eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ^® (Diamalt) Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda). Particularly preferred are soy protein hydrolysates, more preferably soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 daltons, e.g. More colorful the trade name Ridulisse C ^® by the company Silab available, and soy protein hydrolysates with an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 600-1000 Dalton, more preferably 800 Dalton, z. B. under the trade name Phytokine ^® from Coletica available with coconut fatty acids N-acylated and / or esterified soy protein hydrolysates in the form of their alkali metal salts. Coconut fatty acids include predominantly alkanecarboxylic acids having a number of carbon atoms of 8-18, especially caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids. Preferred alkali metal salts are selected from lithium, sodium and potassium salts, with the potassium salts being particularly preferred.

An inventively particularly preferred soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 daltons (Da), is available under the trade name Ridulisse C from Silab. The protein hydrolyzate content in Ridulisse C contains four molecular weight fractions: 0.8% by weight with a Mw> 12,500 Da, 22.2% by weight with 1355 Da <Mw <12,500 Da, 43.1% by weight 75 Da <Mw <1355 Da and 33.9 wt% <75 Da.

Another particularly preferred soy protein hydrolyzate according to the invention is an N-acylated and / or esterified soy protein hydrolyzate with coconut fatty acids in the form of the potassium salt, which is available from Sinerga under the trade name Coccopolipeptide di Soya.

Also preferred according to the invention are keratin hydrolysates, in particular wool keratin hydrolysates. A particularly preferred wool keratin hydrolyzate is available under the name Keratec Pep from Croda. Keratec Pep has a smaller molecular weight fraction with an average molecular weight of 150 daltons and a larger molecular weight fraction with an average molecular weight of 1265 daltons. Also preferred according to the invention are conchiolin hydrolyzates, in particular those which are obtainable under the names Pearl Protein Extract and Pearl Protein Extract BG from the company Maruzen. Conchiolin is a complex protein produced from the outer epithelium of molluscs, in particular pearl shells and various types of snails, and forms the very stable shell of these molluscs by incorporation of calcium carbonate crystals.

Naturally, protein hydrolysates may also contain monomeric amino acids and oligopeptides; their composition is usually undefined.

A particularly preferred wheat protein hydrolyzate according to the invention is available under the trade name Liftiline from Silab.

Also preferred is the use of acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^{® ®} or Crotein (Croda).

Also preferred according to the invention are cationized protein hydrolysates. Particularly preferred are cationic protein hydrolysates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives preferred according to the invention, some of the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl ether HCl. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

In a further preferred embodiment, the polymers of the amino acids combined according to the invention are selected from DNA repair enzymes.

DNA repair enzymes preferred according to the invention are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter being abbreviated to "T4N5" below. These two enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes. DNA repair is defined as the cleavage or removal of UV-induced pyrimidine dimers from the DNA.

Photolyase is the abbreviation for deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3. A particularly efficient photolyase is derived from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine microorganism. The photolyase from A. nidulans is now obtained in technically relevant quantities from E. coli. Photolyase relies on light for activation.

The enzyme T4 endonuclease V is produced by the denV gene of bacteriophage T4 and belongs to the phosphodiesterases which hydrolytically cleave the nucleic acids at the (5'-3 ') bond. T4N5 is also active without the influence of light.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosome ^TM , liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. Available under the name Ultrasome ^™ from AGI Dermatics, USA.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to the at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea, they contain at least one of the commercial products Photosomes ^™ or Ultrasomes ^™ in total amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 1.0-4.0 wt .-%, based on the total composition of the invention.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 Daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 Daltons, in a total amount of 0.0001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001-1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01-0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.02-0.05 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1% by weight 0.001-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005-0.05 wt .-% and most preferably 0.006-0.01 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate in a total amount of 0.001-5.0% by weight, preferably 0.01-1.0% by weight, more preferably 0.1-0 , 5 wt .-% and most preferably 0.2-0.4 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that in addition to the at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 daltons b ) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, and c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate in weight ratios of 1: (0.1-1) :( 1-50), preferably 1: (0 , 2-0,6) :( 10-20), included.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to the at least fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea, they contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or Esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, in a total amount of 0.00001-2 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.001-0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.01-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

Another active ingredient preferred according to the invention whose presence causes an unexpected increase in the activity of the at least fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea is selected from polysaccharides. Polysaccharides preferred according to the invention are those which contain at least one deoxy sugar building block, in particular fucose and / or rhamnose, particularly preferably selected from substances with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-1 (for example in the commercial product Fucogel ^® from Solabia) Rhamnosoft ^® (INC designation Biosaccharide Gum-2) from Solabia, Fucogenol ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-3) (from Solabia and Glycofilm ^® INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4) from Solabia, further mixtures the above-mentioned, at least containing a deoxy-block polysaccharides, for example the mixture of Biosaccharide Gum-2 and Biosaccharide Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia. Further preferred polysaccharides according to the invention are selected from the glycosaminoglycans, more preferably hyaluronic acid, dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin 6-sulfate.

Further inventively preferred polysaccharides are selected from the glucans. Glucans or polyglucosans are a class of homopolysaccharides whose monomer component is exclusively glucose. The glucose molecule can be linked in an α-glycosidic or β-glycosidic manner, branched out in different degrees or arranged linearly.

Examples of glucans are cellulose, amylose, glycogen, lichenin, alginate laminarin, tree fungus pachyman and β-1,3-linked yeast glucan; Nigeran, a mycodextran isolated from fungi (α-1,3-glucan, α-1,4-glucan) and pustulan (β-1,6-glucan).

Among other things, glucans are part of the cell wall; They are released into their milieu by numerous microorganisms under certain physiological conditions or are only synthesized there. Dextran, a primary α-1,6-linked D-glucan, is the most important in this polysaccharide group. Further technically interesting glucans which are outstandingly suitable according to the invention are curdlan (β-1,3-D-glucan), pullulan (α-1,4-bound and α-1,6-bound D-glucan) and schizophyllan (β-1, 3-base chain, β-1,6-side chain). Glucans have diverse immunomodulatory properties; cell surfaces of the human immune system contain corresponding glucan receptors.

Further polysaccharide active compounds which are preferred according to the invention and whose presence brings about an unexpected increase in the activity of the at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea are selected from beta- (1,3-1,4) -glucans. Especially preferred are beta- (1,3-1,4) -glucans, which have about 70% beta-1,4-glucoside linkages and about 30% beta-1,3-glucoside linkages. Such beta- (1,3-1,4) -glucans are preferably obtainable from extracts of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract). Extracts of oat grains which are particularly preferred according to the invention are obtainable under the trade names Drago Beta Glucan (02/060800) and SymGlucan from Symrise.

Further inventively preferred polysaccharide active ingredients, whose presence causes an unexpected increase in the effect of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea, are selected from chemically modified cellulose derivatives, preferably hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, further in particular Starches and starch degradation products such as amylose and amylopectin, chemically and / or thermally modified starches, eg. Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, dihydroxypropyldistarch phosphate or the commercial products Dry ^Flo® , furthermore chitosan and its salts and other derivatives, furthermore polysaccharides which form gums or gums, for example guar gum, xanthan gum, alginates, in particular sodium alginate, gum arabic, karaya Gum, carrageenan, locust bean gum, linseed gums, shellac and agar-agar.

• – Nicotinsäureestern, insbesondere Nicotinsäurebenzylester (Benzylnicotinat), Nicotinsäurebutoxyethylester (Nicoboxil), Nicotinsäuremethylester, Nicotinsäureethylester, Nicotinsäurehexylester, Nicotinsäureisopropylester, Nicotinsäuremyristylester, Tetrahydrofurfuryl-Nicotinat (Thurfyl-Nicotinat) und Tetrahydrofurfuryl-Nicotinat-Hydrochlorid,
• – Pyridin-3-carbaldehyd (β-Pyridincarbaldehyd, Nicotinaldehyd),
• – Salicylsäureestern, insbesondere Phenylsalicylat,
• – Vanillylethern, insbesondere Vanillylbutylether,
• – Carbonsäurevanillylamiden, insbesondere Nonivamid (Nonansäurevanillylamid),
• – Scharfstoffen, insbesondere Capsaicin, Cantharidin, Piperin, Gingerol, Zingeron, Myristicin, Safrol, Allicin, Sedamin, Sacculatal, Chalciporon, Isochalciporon, Velleral, Vellerol, und Isothiocyanaten (Senfölen), insbesondere Benzylsenföl,
• – Extrakten aus Scharfstoff-Pflanzen, insbesondere aus Capsicum, insbesondere aus Capsicum annuum und Capsicum frutescens, aber auch aus Capsicum chinense, Capsicum baccatum und Capsicum pubescens, weiterhin aus Mauerpfeffer und aus der Zaunrübe,
• – Terpentinöl,
• – sowie Mischungen hiervon.

Further inventively preferred active ingredients whose presence causes an unexpected increase in the effect of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea, are selected from hyperemic agents. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one hyperemicating active agent which is selected from

• Nicotinic acid esters, in particular nicotinic acid benzyl ester (benzyl nicotinate), nicotinic acid butoxyethyl ester (nicoboxil), nicotinic acid methyl ester, nicotinic acid ethyl ester, nicotinic acid hexyl ester, isopropyl nicotinate, myrotic nicotinate, tetrahydrofurfuryl nicotinate (thurfyl nicotinate) and tetrahydrofurfuryl nicotinate hydrochloride,
• Pyridine-3-carbaldehyde (β-pyridinecarbaldehyde, nicotinaldehyde),
• Salicylic acid esters, especially phenylsalicylate,
• - vanillyl ethers, in particular vanillyl butyl ether,
• - Carbonsäurevanillylamiden, in particular Nonivamid (Nonansäurevanillylamid),
• - Scharfstoffen, in particular capsaicin, cantharidin, piperine, gingerol, zingerone, myristicin, safrol, allicin, sedamin, sacculatal, chalciporone, isochalciporone, velleral, vellerol, and isothiocyanates (mustard oils), in particular benzyl mustard oil,
• - Extracts from pungent plants, in particular from Capsicum, in particular from Capsicum annuum and Capsicum frutescens, but also from Capsicum chinense, Capsicum baccatum and Capsicum pubescens, furthermore from stonecrop and from the turnip,
• - turpentine oil,
• - And mixtures thereof.

The inventively preferred hyperemic active ingredients are explained in more detail below. nonivamide

Nonivamid = International Free Name for N- (4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzyl) nonanamide (pelargonic acid or nonanoic acid vanillylamide, pseudocapsaicin), C ₁₇ H ₂₇ NO ₃ , M _r 293.40, mp 52-55 ° C. Nonivamid is a generic hyperemic drug in patches and ointments. vanillyl

("Vanillyl ..." according to the invention, the obsolete name (based on the obsolete IUPAC rule C-411.1) for the systematic "(4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzyl) ..." or according to Chemical Abstracts: [(4 -Hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) methyl] ... mentioned atomic grouping.)

Preferred Scharfstoffe or Scharfstoff plants are: capsaicin from pepper, piperine from pepper, gingerol and ginger zingerone, myristicin from nutmeg, allicin from garlic, sedamine from stonecrop (Sedum alkaloid), Sacculatal from liverworts, chalciporon from the Pfeffer Röhrling (Suillus piperatus), Velleral of Milchling (Lactarius) species, isothiocyanates (mustard oils) of mustard, horseradish, cress and other cruciferous vegetables (Brassicaceae). Capsaicin [(E) -N- (4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzyl) -8-methyl-6-nonenamide; FEMA 3404].

C ₁₈ H ₂₇ NO ₃ , M _r 305.42. Monoclinic crystals, mp 64-65 ° C, barely soluble in water, readily soluble in most organic solvents. Capsaicin causes the pungent taste of paprika fruits, chillies and other Capsicum species (even at a 1:10 dilution) containing 0.3-0.5% by weight. Piperine (1-piperylpiperidine).

C ₁₇ H ₁₉ NO ₃ , M _r 285.34, mp 128-129 ° C. Piperine is found to be 5-9% in pepper (Piper nigrum) as its most important pungent and in many other Piper species (Piperaceae). In addition to piperine, more than 50 analog amides, usually with piperidine, pyrrolidine melting point isobutylamine known as the base part of Piper species. Gingerol [6-gingerol, 5-hydroxy-1- (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) -3-decanone].

C ₁₇ H ₂₆ O ₄ , M _r 294.39, (S) form, yellow oil, soluble in organic solvents, pungent in ginger (Zingiber officinale). (R) -form, yellow oil. The racemate has similar taste properties as the (S) -enantiomer, but lacks the typical ginger odor. Zingerone [zingiberone, vanillylacetone, 4- (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) butan-2-one; FEMA 3124]

C ₁₁ H ₁₄ O ₃ , M _r 194.22, colorless, pungent-tasting crystals, mp 40 ° C, slightly soluble in water, soluble in ether and dilute alkalis. Zingerone is the pungent in the oleoresin of ginger, from which it can be isolated. Myristicin, safrol [5- (2-propenyl) -1,3-benzodioxole, 4-allyl-1,2-methylenedioxybenzene].

C ₁₀ H ₁₀ O ₂ , M _r 162.19, colorless to pale yellow liquid, smell of saffron, bp 232-234 ° C, prisms, melting point 11 ° C. Safrol is the main constituent of Sassafras oil (up to 90%) and occurs in larger quantities in camphor oil. In numerous other essential oils, including star anise, basil, fennel, anise, cinnamon, black pepper and nutmeg, Safrol is included in addition to smaller amounts of myristicin.

Myristicin [4-methoxy-6- (2-propenyl) -1,3-benzodioxole], C ₁₁ H ₁₂ O ₃ , M _r 192.21, oil, b.p. 149-149.5 ° C (2 kPa), 95 -97 ° C (27 Pa), soluble in ether and benzene, is found, inter alia, in parsley oil, in carrots, in aniseed oil and nutmeg, where it is accompanied by safrol and elemicin [1,2,3-trimethoxy-5- (2-propenyl) benzene]. Myristicin causes the typical nutmeg scent.

Allium

The biosynthesis of the sulfur-containing ingredients leads from sulfate via cysteine to glutathione. The SH groups of these two peptides are alkylated with methacrylic acid (from valine) or methylated in glutathione.

Stonecrop, Sedacin

At C-2 monosubstituted piperidine alkaloids from Sedum species (Crassulaceae). Sedamin is responsible for the pungent taste of the pennywort (Sedum acre). Sedamin

C ₁₄ H ₂₁ NO, M _r 219.33, m.p. 75-76 ° C. Related to sedamin include 5-hydroxysedamine, the 2'-epimer allosedamine, its N-demethyl derivative norallosedamine and the two associated hydroxy derivatives 3-hydroxyallosedamine and 3-hydroxyno-allosedamine. Sacculatal

Diterpenes such as Sacculatal, Sacculatanolid and Perrottetianal A (all: C ₂₀ H ₃₀ O ₂ , M _r 302.46), which have so far only found in liverworts Sacculatan backbone. Sacculatal, melting point 65-66 ° C, is responsible for the pungent taste of thalli of Pellia endivifolia and Trichocoleopsis sacculata. Chalciporon

C ₁₆ H ₂₁ NO, M _r 243.35, yellowish oil. Alkaloid from the Pepper Roe (Chalciporus piperatus, Basidiomycetes) responsible for the burning taste of the fungus. In addition to chalciporone and some related 2H azepines, the corresponding 3H azepines (eg, isochalciporone, pale yellow oil) were also isolated from the 2H isomers by sigmatropic [1,5] -H shift, achiral, and mild taste. Velleral

C ₁₅ H ₂₀ O ₂ , M _r 232.32, crystals, mp 86.5-87.5 ° C. Sesquiterpen from mushrooms of the genus Lactarius (milklings), Russula (Piebalds) and other Russulaceae.

mustard oils

Historically named name for organic isothiocyanates, R-N = C = S, especially for those that occur as pungent-tasting, flavor-giving constituents of the essential oils mainly in Brassicaceae (cruciferous vegetables). The mustard oils are glycosidically bound there as glucosinolates, from which they are released - with rearrangement - by thioglucosidases (example: myrosinase).

Common mustard oils are allyl mustard (allyl isothiocyanate), 3-methylthiopropyl mustard oil, butyl mustard oil, 3-butenyl mustard oil, erucine, erysoline, hirsutin, isopropyl mustard oil, β-phenylethyl mustard oil, sulforaphane and sulforaphane (raphanin).

Corresponding hyperemicating agents are commercially available, partly in a form prepared for cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Exceptionally preferred active compounds according to the invention are ethyl nicotinate, vanillyl butyl ether, eg. As the raw material Hotact VBE from Takasago, Capsaicin, available z. As raw material Herbasol Extract Capsicum (INCI: Propylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract, Sorbitol) and N-Vanillylnonamide (Pseudocapsaicin).

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one hyperemicating active ingredient in a total amount of active substance of 0.005-3.0% by weight, preferably 0.01-1.0, particularly preferably 0.05-0.5% by weight. % and most preferably 0.1-0.35 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 1,3,7-Trimethylxanthin, denn es wurde überraschend festgestellt, dass diese Kombination die Mikrozirkulation in den Zellen der Haut verbessert und dadurch die Festigkeit der Haut verbessert,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 1,3,7-Trimethylxanthin und Sojaproteinhydrolysat mit einer mittleren Molmasse (Mw) im Bereich von 1200–1800 Dalton, denn es wurde überraschend festgestellt, dass diese Kombination die Mikrozirkulation in den Zellen der Haut weiter steigern und dadurch die Festigkeit der Haut in überraschend hohem Maße verbessern kann,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 1,3,7-Trimethylxanthin und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, denn es wurde überraschend festgestellt, dass diese Kombination die Mikrozirkulation in den Zellen der Haut weiter steigern und dadurch die Festigkeit der Haut in unerwartet hohem Maße verbessern kann,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 1,3,7-Trimethylxanthin und N-Palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, denn es wurde überraschend festgestellt, dass diese Kombination die Mikrozirkulation in den Zellen der Haut verbessert und dadurch die Festigkeit der Haut verbessert,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und Carnitin, denn es wurde überraschend festgestellt, dass diese Kombination die Lipolyse in der Subcutis verbessert und dadurch die Festigkeit der Haut verbessert,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 1,3,7-Trimethylxanthin und Carnitin, denn es wurde überraschend festgestellt, dass diese Kombination die Mikrozirkulation in den Zellen der Haut und die Lipolyse in der Subcutis verbessert bzw. die Lipogenese in der Subcutis hemmt und dadurch die Festigkeit der Haut in überraschend hohem Maße verbessert,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und Carnitin und Sojaproteinhydrolysat mit einer mittleren Molmasse (Mw) im Bereich von 1200–1800 Dalton, denn es wurde überraschend festgestellt, dass mit dieser Dreierkombination die Lipolyse in der Subcutis noch weiter gesteigert und dadurch die Festigkeit der Haut verbessert werden kann,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und Carnitin und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und Carnitin und N-Palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 1,3,7-Trimethylxanthin und Carnitin und Sojaproteinhydrolysat mit einer mittleren Molmasse (Mw) im Bereich von 1200–1800 Dalton und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 1,3,7-Trimethylxanthin und Carnitin und Sojaproteinhydrolysat mit einer mittleren Molmasse (Mw) im Bereich von 1200–1800 Dalton und N-Palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 3,7-Dimethylxanthin und Sojaproteinhydrolysat mit einer mittleren Molmasse (Mw) im Bereich von 1200–1800 Dalton,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 3,7-Dimethylxanthin und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 3,7-Dimethylxanthin und N-Palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 3,7-Dimethylxanthin und Carnitin,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und Carnitin und Sojaproteinhydrolysat mit einer mittleren Molmasse (Mw) im Bereich von 1200–1800 Dalton,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und Carnitin und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und Carnitin und N-Palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 3,7-Dimethylxanthin und Carnitin und Sojaproteinhydrolysat mit einer mittleren Molmasse (Mw) im Bereich von 1200–1800 Dalton und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 3,7-Dimethylxanthin und Carnitin und Sojaproteinhydrolysat mit einer mittleren Molmasse (Mw) im Bereich von 1200–1800 Dalton und N-Palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 1,3-Dimethylxanthin und Sojaproteinhydrolysat mit einer mittleren Molmasse (Mw) im Bereich von 1200–1800 Dalton,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 1,3-Dimethylxanthin und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 1,3-Dimethylxanthin und N-Palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 1,3-Dimethylxanthin und Carnitin,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und Carnitin und Sojaproteinhydrolysat mit einer mittleren Molmasse (Mw) im Bereich von 1200–1800 Dalton,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und Carnitin und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und Carnitin und N-Palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 1,3-Dimethylxanthin und Carnitin und Sojaproteinhydrolysat mit einer mittleren Molmasse (Mw) im Bereich von 1200–1800 Dalton und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und 1,3-Dimethylxanthin und Carnitin und Sojaproteinhydrolysat mit einer mittleren Molmasse (Mw) im Bereich von 1200–1800 Dalton und N-Palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extrakt, denn es wurde überraschend festgestellt, dass diese Kombination die Mikrozirkulation in den Zellen der Haut und die Lipolyse in der Subcutis verbessert bzw. die Lipogenese in der Subcutis hemmt und dadurch die Festigkeit der Haut in überraschend hohem Maße verbessert,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und Ethylnicotinat, denn es wurde überraschend festgestellt, dass diese Kombination die Mikrozirkulation in den Zellen der Haut und die Lipolyse in der Subcutis verbessert bzw. die Lipogenese in der Subcutis hemmt und dadurch die Festigkeit der Haut in überraschend hohem Maße verbessert,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und Vanillylbutylether, denn es wurde überraschend festgestellt, dass diese Kombination die Mikrozirkulation in den Zellen der Haut und die Lipolyse in der Subcutis verbessert bzw. die Lipogenese in der Subcutis hemmt und dadurch die Festigkeit der Haut in überraschend hohem Maße verbessert,
• – mindestens ein Fermentationsprodukt von Pflanzenteilen von Arundarinaria gigantea mit Lactobacillus und N-Vanillylnonamid, denn es wurde überraschend festgestellt, dass diese Kombination die Mikrozirkulation in den Zellen der Haut und die Lipolyse in der Subcutis verbessert bzw. die Lipogenese in der Subcutis hemmt und dadurch die Festigkeit der Haut in überraschend hohem Maße verbessert.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the following active substance combinations:

• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 1,3,7-trimethylxanthine, because it has surprisingly been found that this combination improves the microcirculation in the cells of the skin and thereby improves the firmness of the skin,
• - At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 1,3,7-trimethylxanthine and soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, because it was surprisingly found that this combination microcirculation in the cells further increase the skin and thereby improve the firmness of the skin to a surprisingly high degree,
• - At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 1,3,7-trimethylxanthine and N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, because it was surprisingly found that these Combination that further enhances the microcirculation in the cells of the skin and thereby unexpectedly greatly improves the firmness of the skin,
• - At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 1,3,7-trimethylxanthine and N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, because it was surprisingly found that this combination microcirculation in the cells of the skin improves and thereby improves the firmness of the skin,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and carnitine, because it has surprisingly been found that this combination improves lipolysis in the subcutis and thereby improves the firmness of the skin,
• - At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 1,3,7-trimethylxanthine and carnitine, because it was surprisingly found that this combination improves the microcirculation in the cells of the skin and lipolysis in the subcutis or lipogenesis in the subcutis inhibits and thereby improves the firmness of the skin to a surprisingly high degree,
• - At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and carnitine and soy protein hydrolyzate with an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 Daltons, because it was surprisingly found that increased lipolysis in the subcutis with this triple combination and thereby the firmness of the skin can be improved,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and carnitine and N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and carnitine and N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 1,3,7-trimethylxanthine and carnitine and soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 daltons and N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N- palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 1,3,7-trimethylxanthine and carnitine and soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 daltons and N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys- Ser,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with lactobacillus and 3,7-dimethylxanthine and soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 daltons,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 3,7-dimethylxanthine and N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 3,7-dimethylxanthine and N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 3,7-dimethylxanthine and carnitine,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with lactobacillus and carnitine and soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 daltons,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and carnitine and N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and carnitine and N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 3,7-dimethylxanthine and carnitine and soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 daltons and N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl- Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 3,7-dimethylxanthine and carnitine and soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 daltons and N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with lactobacillus and 1,3-dimethylxanthine and soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 daltons,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 1,3-dimethylxanthine and N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 1,3-dimethylxanthine and N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 1,3-dimethylxanthine and carnitine,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with lactobacillus and carnitine and soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 daltons,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and carnitine and N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and carnitine and N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 1,3-dimethylxanthine and carnitine and soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 daltons and N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl- Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 1,3-dimethylxanthine and carnitine and soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 daltons and N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
• - At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and Capsicum Frutescens Fruit extract, because it was surprisingly found that this combination improves microcirculation in the cells of the skin and lipolysis in the subcutis or inhibits lipogenesis in the subcutis and thereby improves the firmness of the skin to a surprisingly high degree,
• At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and ethyl nicotinate, because it was surprisingly found that this combination improves the microcirculation in the cells of the skin and the lipolysis in the subcutis or inhibits the lipogenesis in the subcutis and thereby the strength of the Improved skin to a surprisingly high degree
• - At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and Vanillylbutylether, because it was surprisingly found that this combination improves the microcirculation in the cells of the skin and the lipolysis in the subcutis or inhibits the lipogenesis in the subcutis and thereby the strength of the Improved skin to a surprisingly high degree
• - At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and N-vanillylnonamide, because it was surprisingly found that this combination improves microcirculation in the cells of the skin and the lipolysis in the subcutis or inhibits lipogenesis in the subcutis and thereby the Strength of the skin improved to a surprisingly high degree.

It may be particularly preferred according to the invention that the amino acids and peptides used as active ingredient are N-acylated and / or esterified to improve the penetration into the skin with at least one, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid. Particularly preferred for N-acylation and / or esterification are C ₈ -C ₁₈ -fatty acids, very particular preference is given to myristic acid (C ₁₄ ) and palmitic acid (C ₁₆ ). It is furthermore particularly preferred that all the amino acids and peptides used are N-acylated and / or esterified in this way. Also preferred is the substitution of the amino acids and peptides with a benzyloxycarbonyl group at the terminal amino group.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers and oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances in supported form, in particular applied to finely divided, powdery substrates such as silica gel, in particular Aerosil types, further talc, microsponges, modified starches and starch derivatives, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin derivatives, nylon polymer particles, polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers which crosslinks polyesters, polyamides, polystyrenes, teflon and silicones. A particularly preferred raw material of this type are the Vegetal Filling Spheres of Coletica.

• – Retinoiden, insbesondere Retinol und C₂-C₂₂-Fettsäureestern des Retinols,
• – Kombucha,
• – Olivenblattextrakten (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract),
• – Oleanolsäure,
• – Oleanol,
• – Grüntee-Extrakten (Camellia Sinensis),
• – Kreatin,
• – sowie Mischungen der vorgenannten Substanzen.

Further inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that in addition to the combination of two of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one other active ingredient selected from purine and purine derivatives, natural betaine compounds, urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas , Monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, as well as mixtures of these active ingredients contain at least one further, the collagen-stimulating active ingredient, which is selected out

• Retinoids, in particular retinol and C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol,
• - Kombucha,
• Olive leaf extracts (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract),
• - oleanolic acid,
• - oleanol,
• - green tea extracts (Camellia sinensis),
• - Creatine,
• - And mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from retinoids. For the purposes of the present invention, the retinoids are retinol (vitamin A ₁ ), the C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid esters of retinol (= retinyl ester, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate), 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ), retinal and its Isomers, all-trans-retinoic acid, 9-cis-retinoic acid and 13-cis-retinoic acid (tretinoin), the esters of retinoic acid and other related substances (synthetic retinoids) are known, which are known for their diverse biological activity especially on growth and differentiation , as well as substances that have a specific biological effect by binding to the retinoid receptors RAR (retinoid acid receptor) and RXR (retinoid X receptor) and cause their activation. Synthetic retinoids are classified into three groups: non-aromatic (eg, isotretinoin), monoaromatic (eg, acitretin), and polyaromatic (so-called arotinoids, eg, tazarotene, which have a specific effect on single retinoid receptors). Particularly preferred retinoids according to the invention are retinol and the C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from Kombucha.

Kombucha is an originating from the East Asian region, containing about 0.5 vol .-% alcohol, pleasantly sour, slightly sweet, sparkling fermentation beverage based on mono- or disaccharide-containing tea (black tea, green tea, herbal tea or fruit tea), which is produced without the addition of preservatives, colorings and flavorings. The "Kombucha tea fungus" is in fact not a fungus, but a symbiosis of acetic acid bacteria (usually Acetobacter xylinum, but also Acetobacter gluconicum) with various yeasts (Saccharomyces sp., Torula sp., Pichia fermentans); Optionally, lactic acid bacteria may be present. For reasons of production safety and production stability, industrially manufactured kombucha is often heat treated.

"Tea" according to the invention aqueous infusions of leaves, buds and delicate stems of Thea sinensis (Camellia sinensis) and Thea assamica, but also understood by various other plants, such as mint, linden (linden), mallow, rooibos, chamomile, etc.

Preferred kombucha is derived from mono- or disaccharide-containing tea of fermented (black tea, oolong tea, yellow tea, pu-erh tea) or unfermented (green tea) leaves of thea sinensis (Camellia sinensis) or thea assamica. Further preferred Kombucha is obtained by fermentation of (usually with sucrose) sugared tea with the symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter xylinum. A Kombucha product particularly preferred according to the invention is a product obtained by fermentation of sucrose-sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter xylinum and, for example, under the INCI name "Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, Glycerol, Hydroxyethylcellulose". with the trade name "Kombuchka" as glycerol-containing thickened preparation from the company Sederma is available.

Other inventively preferred drugs that stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from olive leaf extracts (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). An inventively particularly preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Oleanoline DPG from the company Vincience available. Another invention particularly preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.

Olive leaf extracts may have a high content of oleanolic acid and / or oleanol. Further inventively preferred active ingredients that stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from oleanolic acid and oleanol.

Further inventively preferred active ingredients that stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from green tea extracts (Camellia sinensis). A particularly preferred green tea extract according to the invention is liposome-encapsulated green tea extract, for example available under the trade name Greenselect Phytosome from Indena.

Further inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that in addition to the combination of two of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one other active ingredient selected from purine and purine derivatives, natural betaine compounds, urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas , Monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, and mixtures of these active ingredients in a total amount of at least one active substance which stimulates collagen synthesis 0.000001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001-2 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001-1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005-0.5 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition.

The symptoms of cellulite are largely independent of skin aging. However, the skin aging associated with negative skin changes further enhance the appearance of cellulite. A significant consequence of skin aging is the loss of collagen. This is based on the one hand on a reduced collagen synthesis in certain skin cells, the fibroblasts, on the other hand on an increased collagen degradation, in particular by certain enzymes, such as the so-called matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). In particular, UV-induced expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 results in degradation of collagen-1, which constitutes about 85% of the total protein in the extracellular matrix. In addition to the elements of the cytoskeleton and the gap junction proteins, other proteins provide the skin tissue with mechanical stability. These proteins mediate cell-extracellular matrix (ECM) binding. Main components of ECM are collagen and hyaluronic acid. The binding of cells to ECM proteins is mediated by receptors located on the cell surface. So binds z. As the surface receptor CD44, whose expression is increased, for example by apple seed extracts, of hyaluronic acid.

Recent studies have confirmed the hypothesis that collagen degradation interferes with the integrin-mediated interplay between collagen matrix and fibroblasts. It has been shown that on a previously damaged, contracted and low tension collagen matrix the further collagen synthesis is limited. The loss of mechanical tension seems to be causally involved in the decreased synthesis of new collagen ( J. Varani et al., Reduced Fibroblast Interaction with Intact Collagen as a Mechanism for Depressed Collagen Synthesis in Photodamaged Skin, J. Invest. Dermatol. 122, 1471-1479, 2004 ).

• – Apfelkernextrakten (Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract),
• – Lotuskeim-Extrakten (Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract),
• – Extrakten aus Maiskörnern (Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract),
• – Rotweinextrakten,
• – Traubenkernextrakten (Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract), die bevorzugt aus der Chardonnay-Traube stammen,
• – Extrakten aus Schwarzen Holunderblüten (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract),
• – Mischungen aus mindestens einem Extrakt aus Kakaobohnen (Theobroma cacao) und mindestens einem Extrakt aus den Blättern der Pfefferminze (Mentha piperita),
• – Hydroxystilbenen und deren Estern, insbesondere Resveratrol und/oder Resveratrolmono-,
• – -di- und -triphosphorsäureestern und deren Salzen, weiterhin aus Piceatannol, Piceatannolethern und Pinosylvin sowie Pinosylvinethern,
• – Isoflavonoiden und Isoflavonoid-reichen Pflanzenextrakten,
• – Dihydroquercetin (= Taxifolin),
• – sowie Mischungen hiervon.

Further inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that in addition to the combination of two of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one other active ingredient selected from purine and purine derivatives, natural betaine compounds, urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas , Monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, and mixtures of these agents, at least one other, the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Containing fibroblasts enhancing and / or enhancing agent selected from

• - apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract),
• - lotus germ extracts (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract),
• Corn kernel extracts (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract),
• - red wine extracts,
• Grape seed extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract), which are preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape,
• Extracts of black elderflower (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract),
• Mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of peppermint leaves (Mentha piperita),
• Hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol and / or resveratrol mono-,
• - -di- and -triphosphoric acid esters and their salts, further of piceatannol, piceatannol ethers and pinosylvin, and also pinosyl-vinyl ethers,
• Isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts,
• - dihydroquercetin (= taxifolin),
• - And mixtures thereof.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). Particularly preferred apple seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Ederline from Seporga. The product Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. Ederline is once in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), on the other in fat-soluble form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol , Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract).

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the raw material Ederline in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and particularly preferably 3-5% by weight, in each case on the entire composition, included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one apple seed extract in amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.01-1.6% by weight and more preferably 0.03-1% by weight. %, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from lotus germ extracts. A particularly preferred lotus germ extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Lotus Germ Extract with the INCI name Water, Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract from Maruzen.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from extracts of corn kernels (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract). An extract of corn kernels which is particularly preferred according to the invention is obtainable under the trade name Deliner from Coletica.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from red wine extracts (wine extract). A particularly preferred red wine extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Sepivinol R from Seppic.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from grape seed extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract), which are particularly preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape. Particularly preferred grape seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Herbalia Grape from Cognis or under the trade name Crodarom Chardonnay from Croda.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from extracts of black elderflower (Sambucus nigra flower extract). An invention particularly preferred extract of black elderflower is available under the trade name Sambucus AO from the company Alpaflor / Centerchem or Permcos.

Further agents preferred according to the invention which increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita). According to the invention, particularly preferred mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) - wherein aqueous, glycolic or aqueous-glycolic preparations of these Extract mixtures are particularly preferred - are available under the trade names Caomint, Caophenol, Caobromine, Caospice and Caoorange from Solabia.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol) and / or resveratrol mono- , -di- and -triphosphorsäureestern and their salts, further from Piceatannol, Piceatannolethern and Pinosylvin and Pinosylvinethern. An inventively particularly preferred Resveratrolphosphorsäureester is trisodium resveratrol triphosphates, z. Available from Ajinomoto.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts.

According to the invention, the isoflavones include the isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides. According to the invention, isoflavones are substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, it being possible for hydrogenation to be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation to form a carbonyl group in 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.

In the isoflavone glycosides preferred according to the invention, the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar. Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a plant extract. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art, for example by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soy, in particular from soybean, red clover or chickpeas. Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts obtained from soybean are particularly preferably used in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Lipobelle Soyaglycone (Mibelle AG Cosmetics), Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline from Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in total amounts of from 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight .-%, each based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.

Another preferred agent of the present invention which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts is dihydroquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), also referred to as taxifolin.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active substance which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts, in a total amount of 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0, 00001-5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001-2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005-0.5 or 1 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

• – DNA- oder RNA-Oligonucleotiden,
• – Vitaminen, Provitaminen und Vitaminvorstufen der Gruppen B, E, H und K und den Estern der vorgenannten Substanzen,
• – α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren, α-Ketocarbonsäuren, β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren und deren Ester-, Lacton- und/oder Salzform,
• – Flavonoiden und Flavonoid-reichen Pflanzenextrakten,
• – Ubichinon und Ubichinol sowie deren Derivaten,
• – Silymarin,
• – Ectoin,
• – anorganischen und organischen UV-Filtersubstanzen,
• – selbstbräunenden,
• – hautberuhigenden und
• – sebumregulierenden Wirkstoffen sowie
• – Mischungen dieser Wirkstoffe.

Further preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the combination of two, at least one of Fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one other active ingredient selected from purine and purine derivatives, natural betaine compounds, urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas, monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the Esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, and mixtures of these active ingredients, containing at least one further active ingredient which is selected from

• - DNA or RNA oligonucleotides,
• - vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups B, E, H and K and the esters of the abovementioned substances,
• Α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone and / or salt form,
• Flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts,
• - ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives,
• - Silymarin,
• - Ectoin,
• Inorganic and organic UV filter substances,
• - self-tanning,
• - soothing and
• - Sebumregulierenden agents and
• - Mixtures of these substances.

Further inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that in addition to the combination of two of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one other active ingredient selected from purine and purine derivatives, natural betaine compounds, urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas , Monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, and mixtures of these agents contain at least one active ingredient which is selected from DNA oligonucleotides and RNA oligonucleotides.

According to the invention, an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in β-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine). 5'-triphosphate).

An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide. In the most preferred compositions of the present invention, the DNA oligonucleotides or RNA oligonucleotides are present in amounts of 0.00001-5 wt%, preferably 0.0001-1.0 wt%, and more preferably 0.0005-0.5 Wt .-%, based on the total composition.

Further inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that in addition to the combination of two of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one other active ingredient selected from purine and purine derivatives, natural betaine compounds, urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas , Monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, as well as mixtures of these active ingredients contain at least one active ingredient which is selected from at least one vitamin, Provitamin or designated as a vitamin precursor compound from the vitamin groups B, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances.

• – Vitamin B₁, Trivialname Thiamin, chemische Bezeichnung 3-[(4'-Amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl)-methyl]-5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-4-methylthiazoliumchlorid. Bevorzugt wird Thiaminhydrochlorid in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₂, Trivialname Riboflavin, chemische Bezeichnung 7,8-Dimethyl-10-(1-D-ribityl)-benzo[g]pteridin-2,4(3H,10H)-dion. Bevorzugt werden Riboflavin oder seine Derivate in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Bevorzugt wird Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung können an Stelle von sowie zusätzlich zu Pantothensäure oder Panthenol auch Derivate des 2-Furanon mit der allgemeinen Strukturformel (VIT-I) eingesetzt werden.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ , common name thiamine, chemical name 3 - [(4'-amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl) methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
• - Vitamin B ₂ , trivial name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3H, 10H) -dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol, it is also possible to use derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (VIT-I).

Preference is given to the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ⁶ independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched one C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono , Di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The invention extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), wherein in formula (VIT-I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a Hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 is} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 is} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.

• – Vitamin B₆, wobei man hierunter keine einheitliche Substanz, sondern die unter den Trivialnamen Pyridoxin, Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal bekannten Derivate des 5-Hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols versteht. Vitamin B₆ ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Vitamin B₇ (Biotin), auch als Vitamin H oder ”Hautvitamin” bezeichnet. Bei Biotin handelt es sich um (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure. Biotin ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-% enthalten.
• – Folsäure (Vitamin B₉, Vitamin B_c). Internationaler Freiname für N-[4-(2-Amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino)-benzoyl]-L-glutaminsäure (N-Pteroyl-L-glutaminsäure, PteGlu). Folat wird synonym zu Pteroylglutamat gebraucht, Folate ist der Sammelbegriff für alle Folsäurewirksamen Verbindungen und bezeichnet eine Substanzklasse, die einen mit 4-Aminobenzoesäure und L-Glutaminsäure verbundenen Pteridin-Ring enthält. Folsäure ist ein Wachstumsfaktor für verschiedene Mikroorganismen und eine Verbindung mit Vitamincharakter, die in der Natur meist als Polyglutamat und in reduzierter Form (7,8-Dihydrofolsäure, H₂Folat, DHF; Tetrahydrofolsäure, H₄Folat, THF; 5'-Methyl-Tetrahydrofolsäure, CH₃-H₄Folat, MeTHF) vorkommt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Folsäure, Folaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01 bis 0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.
• – Orotsäure (Vitamin B₁₃, 1,2,3,6-Tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidin-carbonsäure, Uracil-6-carbonsäure, Molkensäure). Orotsäure, ihr Cholinester oder Orotsäure-Metallsalze (Orotate von Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) sind erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Orotsäure, Orotaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001–1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01–0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.

Said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type as well as the 2-furanone derivatives are present in the agents in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

• - Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols. Vitamin B ₆ is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Folic acid (Vitamin B ₉ , Vitamin B _c ). International generic name for N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid (N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu). Folate is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate, folate is the collective term for all folic acid-active compounds and refers to a class of compounds containing a pteridine ring linked to 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic acid. Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a compound of vitamin character, which is usually found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H ₂ folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H ₄ folate, THF, 5'-methyl). Tetrahydrofolic acid, CH ₃ -H ₄ folate, MeTHF). Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.
• - Orotic acid (vitamin B ₁₃ , 1,2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid). Orotic acid, its choline ester or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.

The vitamin E group includes tocopherol, especially α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Tocopherol and its derivatives are preferably contained in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B ₇ (see above).

The fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group, which are based on the basic structure of 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, include phylloquinone (vitamin K ₁ ), farnoquinone or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K ₃ ) , Vitamin K is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the following active substance combinations:
at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and folic acid, because it has surprisingly been found that this combination improves the microcirculation in the cells of the skin and thereby improves the firmness of the skin, at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 1 , 3,7-trimethylxanthine and folic acid, because it has surprisingly been found that this combination can further increase the microcirculation in the cells of the skin and thereby improve the firmness of the skin to a surprisingly high degree,
at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and folic acid and N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, because it was surprisingly found that this combination of microcirculation in the cells of the Further enhancing the skin, and thereby increasing the firmness of the skin to an unexpectedly high degree,
at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and folic acid and N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, because it has surprisingly been found that this combination improves the microcirculation in the cells of the skin and thereby the firmness of the skin improved
at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and carnitine and folic acid, because it has been surprisingly found that this combination improves lipolysis in the subcutis and thereby improves the firmness of the skin.

Further inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that in addition to the combination of two of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one other active ingredient selected from purine and purine derivatives, natural betaine compounds, urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas , Monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, and mixtures of these active ingredients contain at least one active substance which is selected from at least one α- Hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone and / or salt form. Preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2- Hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. A particularly preferred α-ketocarboxylic acid is pyruvic acid. The esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Further derivatives of the abovementioned acids are their physiologically tolerated salts, preferably the zinc, copper and manganese salts, the salts of the alkali and alkaline earth metals and the ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, particularly preferably the sodium, potassium and potassium salts. , Magnesium and calcium salts.

The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids or β-hydroxycarboxylic acids or their derivatives are preferably in a total amount of 0.1-10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5-5 wt .-% and most preferably 1-2 wt. -%, in each case based on the total composition included.

Further inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that in addition to the combination of two of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one other active ingredient selected from purine and purine derivatives, natural betaine compounds, urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas , Monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, and mixtures of these active ingredients contain at least one active ingredient which is selected from at least one flavonoid and / or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract.

The flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols) and the aurones. The flavanones and isoflavones according to the invention are expressly excluded from the flavonoids. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3 -rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L -mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L -mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside). Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside.

Also preferred are the constructed from two flavonoid biflavonoids, z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

According to the invention, the flavonoids in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the Flavonoidaktivsubstanz in the whole cosmetic composition, used.

mit n = 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10.Further inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that in addition to the combination of two of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one other active ingredient selected from purine and purine derivatives, natural betaine compounds, urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas , Monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, and mixtures of these active ingredients contain at least one active ingredient which is selected from at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or its derivatives. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (UBI-I):

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Particularly preferred is the ubiquinone of the formula (UBI-I) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10.

According to the invention, the ubiquinones, ubiquinols or derivatives thereof in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition, used.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the following active substance combinations:
at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and Coenzyme Q10, because it has surprisingly been found that this combination improves the microcirculation in the cells of the skin and thereby improves the firmness of the skin,
At least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 1,3,7-trimethylxanthine and coenzyme Q 10, because it has been surprisingly found that this combination further increase the microcirculation in the cells of the skin and thereby the firmness of the skin in surprisingly high Can improve measurements,
at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and carnitine and coenzyme Q 10, because it has surprisingly been found that this combination can further increase the microcirculation in the cells of the skin and thereby improve the firmness of the skin to an unexpectedly high degree.

Further inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that in addition to the combination of two of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one other active ingredient selected from purine and purine derivatives, natural betaine compounds, urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas , Monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, and mixtures of these active ingredients further contain silymarin. According to the invention, silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was previously regarded as a uniform substance. The main constituents of silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydianin, which belong to the group of flavanolignans.

According to the invention silymarin is used in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Further inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that in addition to the combination of two of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one other active ingredient selected from purine and purine derivatives, natural betaine compounds, urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas , Monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, and mixtures of these active substances further contain ectoine. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention, ectoine is preferably present in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the following active substance combinations:
at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with lactobacillus and ectoin, because it has surprisingly been found that this combination improves the microcirculation in the cells of the skin and thereby improves the firmness of the skin,
at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus and 1,3,7-trimethylxanthine and ectoine, because it has surprisingly been found that this combination further increase the microcirculation in the cells of the skin and thereby improve the firmness of the skin to a surprisingly high degree can.

Further inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that in addition to the combination of two of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one other active ingredient selected from purine and purine derivatives, natural betaine compounds, urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas , Monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, and mixtures of these active substances further at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance contain.

In the UV filter substances are liquid or crystalline substances at room temperature, which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and the absorbed energy in the form of wavelength radiation, z. B. to give off heat again. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention. The organic UV filters preferred according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or unsymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomeric and oligomeric 4,4-Diarylbutadiencarboxylic acid esters and -carbonsäureamiden, Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzalmalonsäureestern, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the above components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the preferred cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives are present in a pigmentary, ie undissolved form, for example in particle sizes of from 10 nm to 300 nm. According to the invention particularly preferred oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4 - (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylic acid-4 isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- 4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone, available under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF), 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester, to polymers ge bound UV filters, z. B. 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer having the INCI name Dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS No. 207574-74-1, Parsol ^® SLX), Triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethyl- hexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, available under the name Tinosorb S from CIBA), dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, available under the name Uvasorb HEB from Sigma 3V ^®), 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'- ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine (ethylhexyl triazone, Uvinul ^® T150), 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2- yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6), 2,4-bis [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS no. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ^® from 3V Sigma), the benzotriazole derivatives of 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) [Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H-benzotriazole) 2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical), 2- (2'-hydroxy-3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No .: 025973-551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-octylphenyl) benzotr iazole (CAS no. 003147-75-9), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 2440-22-4), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6 - [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - ((trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxanes, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or Aniso triazine also available as Tinosorb S from CIBA ^®), 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- ( 4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6 - (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl ) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [ 4- (ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrrole) 2-yl) -1,3,5-tri azine, 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis { [4- (2-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - [[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and mixtures of mentioned components.

Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, Alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, in particular the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or Neo Heliopan Hydro from Symrise , and the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37 -7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP Symrise, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts with the INCI name Terephthalydene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS No .: 90457-82-2, available as Mexoryl SX from Chimex).

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, solutions of the UV-A-filter 1 can be, for example, (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) in various UV- Make B filters. Therefore, in a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. However, in another preferred embodiment, the coating material may also comprise inorganic materials; Silicoxide is particularly preferred as the coating material. Particularly preferred pigment materials are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

According to the invention, the organic UV filter substances are preferably in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, more preferably 0.5-20% by weight, even more preferably 1.0-15% by weight and more preferably 3.0 -10 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. According to the invention, the inorganic UV filter substances are preferably in amounts of 0.1-15 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5-10 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 1.0-5 wt .-% and more preferably 2.0 -4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Further inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that in addition to the combination of two of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one other active ingredient selected from purine and purine derivatives, natural betaine compounds, urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas , Monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, and mixtures of these active ingredients further contain at least one self-tanning active ingredient. Self-tanning active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose and 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.

According to the invention, the self-tanning active compounds are present in a total amount of 0.01-15% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 1.0-5% by weight and most preferably 2.0-4, 0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

Further inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that in addition to the combination of two of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one other active ingredient selected from purine and purine derivatives, natural betaine compounds, urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas , Monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, and mixtures of these active substances further contain at least one skin-soothing active ingredient. Skin-soothing active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from allantoin, α-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, extracts from Centella asiatica, for example obtainable under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, glycyrrethic acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z. Sold under the trade name Calmsphere by Soliance, mixtures of cereal waxes, extracts of shea butter and Argania spinosa oil with the INCI name "Spent grain wax and Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil ", as described, for example, in US Pat. B. under the trade name Stimu-Tex AS available from the company Pentapharm, extracts of Vanilla Tahitensis, as described for. B. under the trade name Vanirea (INCI: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) are available from Solabia, Alginhydrolysaten as z. B. under the trade name phycosaccharides, especially phycosaccharides Al, are available from Codif, extracts of Bacopa Monniera, as described for. B. under the trade name Bacocalmine available from the company Sederma, extracts from the Rooibos plant, as described, for. B. under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE available from the company Cosmetochem, yeast extracts, particularly preferably the commercial product Drieline (INCI name "sorbitol, Yeast Extract"), available from Lanatech, the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, as described, for , B. under the trade name phytocohesins (INCI: sodium beta-sitosteryl) are available from the company Vincience, aminodicarboxylic acids having a carbon chain length of 3-6 carbon atoms and their physiologically acceptable salts, preferably selected from aminomalonic, aminosuccinic (= aspartic acid), aminoglutaric and aminoadipic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts such as potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate, extracts from the seeds of Cucurbita pepo (zucchini), extracts of Mentha piperita, in particular from the leaves of Mentha piperita, N-acylated alkanolamines, in particular N-palmitoylethanolamine, hydrolyzates and / or Extracts from the algae Enteromorpha compressa (Darmtang, a green alga), in particular from the vegetation body (thallus) of the alga, commercially available z. B. under the trade name Enteline 2, further selected from the dipeptide Tyr-Arg, its esters and its N-acyl derivatives, in particular N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester (eg Calmosensine of Sederma, and any mixtures of these substances.

Extracts from the seeds of Cucurbita pepo (zucchini) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are described, for example, in the commercial products Curbilene (ex Indena SpA, INCI: Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract), Ocaline (ex Soliance, INCI: Sea Water (and) Water (and ) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract), ARP 100 (ex Greentech, INCI: Water, Alcohol, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), ARP 100 Huileux (ex Greentech, INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), Cucurbitine (ex Christian Dior Perfumes, INCI: Water (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract), Herbasol Extract Pumpkin (ex Cosmetochem, INCI: Water (and) Propylene glycol (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract) and Pumpkin Extract (ex Draco Natural Products, INCI: Water (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract)).

Mentha piperita extracts which are particularly preferred according to the invention, in particular from the leaves of Mentha piperita, are described, for example, in the commercial products Calmiskin OP (ex Silab, INCI: Water (and) Mentha piperita (Peppermint Leaf Extract) and Caomint (ex Solabia, INCI: Propylene Glycol, Water, Mentha piperita (Peppermint) leaf extract, Theobroma cacao (Cocoa) extract).

The skin-soothing active ingredients are preferably present in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Further inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that in addition to the combination of two of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one other active ingredient selected from purine and purine derivatives, natural betaine compounds, urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas , Monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, and mixtures of these active substances further at least one sebumregulierenden agent. Sebum-regulating active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-decanediol, which are used as the triple combination according to the invention in the commercial product acnacidol PG from Vincience, furthermore from the commercial product Azeloglicina (potassium azeloyl diglycinate) from Sinerga, Extracts of Spiraea Ulmaria, as they are eg. As in the product Seboregul the company Silab are included, further water and oil soluble extracts of Hamamelis, burdock and nettles, Zimtbaumextract (z. B. Sepicontrol ^® A5 from Seppic), chrysanthemum extract (z. B. Laricyl ^®, ex Laboratoires Serobiologiques) and the active compound mixtures Asebiol ^® BT2 (Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, INCI: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, glycerin, panthenol ,, allantoin, biotin) and antiobesity factor ^® COS-218/2-A (Cosmetochem, INCI: Aqua, cetyl PCA, PEG-8 isolauryl thioether, PCA, cetyl alcohol).

The sebum-regulating active ingredients are preferably present in a total amount of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1-20 for anti-cellulite treatment of the skin and / or to increase the skin firmness and / or to improve the mechanical stability of Skin and / or to increase the skin elasticity and / or the skin firmness and / or smoothing of the skin and / or to improve the visual appearance of the skin and / or to stimulate the microcirculation in the skin and / or to support lipolysis in the subcutis and / or for inhibiting lipogenesis in the subcutis.

The skin firmness and the mechanical stability of the skin can for a z. On the other hand via the parameter U _F (total expandability of the skin under negative pressure), which can be measured with the cutometer, determined over the torsion angle, which can be measured with the Dermal Torque Meter.

• a) Purin und Purin-Derivaten,
• b) natürlichen Betainverbindungen,
• c) Harnstoff und alkyl- oder hydroxyalkylsubstituierten Harnstoffen,
• d) Monomeren, Oligomeren und Polymeren von Aminosäuren, N-C₂-C₂₄-Acylaminosäuren und/oder den Estern und/oder den physiologisch verträglichen Salzen dieser Substanzen,
• e) Polysacchariden,
• f) hyperämisierenden Wirkstoffen,
• g) sowie Mischungen dieser Wirkstoffe, zur Herstellung einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zusammensetzung – zur Behandlung der Cellulite und/oder – zur Steigerung der Hautfestigkeit und/oder – zur Verbesserung der mechanischen Stabilität der Haut und/oder – zur Steigerung der Hautelastizität und/oder – zur Straffung der Haut und/oder – zur Glättung der Haut und/oder – zur Verbesserung des optischen Erscheinungsbildes der Haut – zur Anregung der Mikrozirkulation in der Haut und/oder – zur Unterstützung der Lipolyse in der Subcutis und/oder – zur Inhibierung der Lipogenese in der Subcutis.

Another object of the present invention is the use of an active ingredient combination of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one further active ingredient selected from

• a) purine and purine derivatives,
• b) natural betaine compounds,
• c) urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas,
• d) monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances,
• e) polysaccharides,
• f) hyperemic agents,
• g) and mixtures of these active ingredients, for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition - for the treatment of cellulite and / or - for increasing the skin firmness and / or - for improving the mechanical stability of the skin and / or - for increasing the skin elasticity and / or - to tighten the skin and / or - to smooth the skin and / or - to improve the appearance of the skin - to stimulate microcirculation in the skin and / or - to support lipolysis in the subcutis and / or - to inhibit lipogenesis in the subcutis.

Further inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that in addition to the combination of two of at least one fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one other active ingredient selected from purine and purine derivatives, natural betaine compounds, urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas , Monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, polysaccharides, and mixtures of these active substances further contain at least one conditioning agent. According to the invention, conditioning substances are to be understood as substances which are absorbed by keratinic materials, in particular on the skin, and improve the physical and sensory properties of both the skin and of the product as such. Conditioners smooth the top layer of the skin and make it soft and supple. Through the choice of conditioning agents (greasy - less greasy, fast or slow spreading, quickly or slowly absorbed into the skin and so on), the skin feel of the entire product can be adjusted.

Conditioning agents according to the invention are selected from fatty substances, in particular vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil, lanolin and its derivatives, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons , Di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, z. As di-n-octyl ether and n-hexyl n-octyl ether, fatty acids, particularly linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C _8-30 fatty acids, fatty alcohols, particularly saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 4-30 carbon atoms, with 1-75, preferably 5-20 ethylene oxide units ethoxylated and / or may be propoxylated with 3-30, preferably 9-14 propylene oxide units, ester oils, that is, esters of C _6-30 fatty acids with C _2-30 fatty alcohols , Hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters, dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate or propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. B. glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC), mono, - di- and tri fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, which, preferably 7-9 ethylene oxide units may be ethoxylated with 1-10, z. B. PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, waxes, especially insect waxes, plant waxes, fruit waxes, ozokerite, microwaxes, ceresin, paraffin waxes, triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C _16-30 fatty acids, eg. Hardened triglyceride fats, phospholipids, for example soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and silicone polymers which may, if desired, be cross-linked, e.g. As polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes with the earlier INCI name dimethicone copolyol, and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups, preferably substances with the INCI names Dimethiconol, Amodimethicone or Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.

The amount used of the fatty substances is preferably 0.1-99 wt .-%, more preferably 2-50 wt .-% and most preferably 5-20 wt .-%, each based on the total skin treatment agent.

The cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are preferably in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water-in-oil or water in-oil-in-water emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, hydrogel, lipogel, mono- or multiphase solution, foam, powder or mixture with at least one polymer suitable as a medical adhesive. The agents may also be presented in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm. Here, the carrier may be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils. In a particularly preferred embodiment according to the invention, the agents are present as microemulsions. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood as meaning not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called "PIT" emulsions. These emulsions are systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier, which are present at room temperature as an oil-in-water emulsion. When these systems are heated, microemulsions are formed in a certain temperature range (referred to as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT") and, on further heating, convert to water-in-oil emulsions. During the subsequent cooling, O / W emulsions are again formed, but they are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions having an average particle diameter of less than 400 nm and in particular of about 100-300 nm. According to the invention, those micro- or "PIT" emulsions may be preferred which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm.

In the preferred embodiment as an emulsion, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one surface-active substance as emulsifier or dispersant. Examples of suitable emulsifiers are addition products of from 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear C ₈ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols, on C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids and on C ₈ -C ₁₅ -alkylphenols, C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto C ₃ -C ₆ -polyols, in particular to glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products of methylglucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, C ₈ -C ₂₂ - Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose are preferred as the sugar component, mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, eg. For example, the commercially available product Montanov ^® 68, addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, sterols, in particular cholesterol, lanosterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol, as well as mycosterols, phospholipids, especially glucose phospholipids, fatty acid ester of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol, preferably Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH) and Polyglyceryl-3 -diisostearat (commercial product Lameform ^® TGI) as well as linear and branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The compositions according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total composition.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 and below is included. Such preferred emulsifiers are in particular compounds of the general formula R ¹ -OR ² , in which R ^{1 is} a primary linear alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group having 20-30 C atoms, preferably a behenyl radical, and R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a group with the formula - (C _n H _2n O) _x -H with x = 1 or 2 and n = 2-4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group with 4-6 C atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups, preferably hydrogen. A particularly preferred compound R ¹ -OR ² is behenyl alcohol. Further preferred emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 and below are the adducts of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenic acid or erucic acid. Preferably, the monoesters of C ₁₅ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with polyols such as. As pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methyl glucose. Examples of such products are z. B. sorbitan monobehenate or pentaerythritol monoerucate. The presence of emulsifiers of the general formula R ¹ -OR ² can lead to lamellar structures in the emulsion, which can have particularly favorable effects on the restoration of the lamellar structure of the skin. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they are present in the form of a lamellar structures having oil-in-water emulsion.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion. Such water-in-oil emulsions can be formulated to have a higher viscosity so that they are carefully sized into the skin. This supports the anti-cellulite effect of the compositions of the invention. However, low-viscous water-in-oil emulsions can also be formulated just as well, in particular based on the polymeric water-in-oil emulsifier PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, obtainable by way of example. B. under the trade name Arlacel P 135 from Uniqema. In particular, with the help of this emulsifier sprayable water-in-oil emulsions can be formulated.

Other suitable additives are thickeners, for. As natural and synthetic clays and phyllosilicates such as bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite or Laponite ^® , or anionic polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the acidic groups wholly or partly as sodium, potassium , Ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt may be present and wherein at least one nonionic monomer may be contained. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. These copolymers can also be present in crosslinked form. Suitable commercial products are NS Sepigel ^® 305 Simulgel® ^® 600 ^® and Simulgel® Simulgel® ^® EC SEPPIC. Further particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ^®. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C _3-5 carboxylic acid or its anhydride and 2-20% of optionally substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated C _10-30 carboxylic acids, the copolymer having the can be crosslinked aforementioned crosslinking agents. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^® and Carbopol ^® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).

Suitable nonionic polymers include polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, for. B. the commercial products Mowiol ^® and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidones z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF) are sold. Further preferred additives are antioxidants, preservatives, solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, adsorbents and fillers such as talc and Veegum ^®, perfume oils, pigments and dyes for coloring the composition, substances for adjusting the pH Value, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, pentane, isopentane, isobutane, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

Since the compositions according to the invention are intended in particular for (large-scale) application on the body skin, it is particularly advantageous and practical if they are present as a sprayable composition. Another object of the present invention is therefore a composition according to any one of claims 1-19, which is packaged in a spray dispenser or pump dispenser.

embodiments

The following formulation examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it thereto.

All amounts are in wt .-%, based on the total composition.

1. Oil-in-water emulsions

1. Skin creams

The compositions 1.1-1.4 are preferred embodiments of nourishing day creams having an anti-cellulite effect or an effect for improving the silhouette of the face, in particular in the chin area, with an effect which has been improved according to the invention. 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 safflower oil 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Myritol 318 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Novata AB 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Behenyl alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Cutina MD 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 isopropyl 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Shea butter 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Baysilone oil M 350 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Controx KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dow Corning 1501 Fluid 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Dry Flo Plus 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 TiO ₂ 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus 0.5 0.75 1.0 1.2 hexanediol 6.00 3.00 - - propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 glycerol 5.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Tego carbomer 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 seaweed extract 1.00 - - - Caomint 1.00 0.50 2.00 - Calmosensine 1.00 2.00 - 2.00 Symdiol 68 0.30 0.50 - - DSH CN 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Hydro Vance 4.30 2.50 8.60 10.00 Kombuchka 3.00 - - 3.00 Glistin - 2.00 - - Natrulon RC 50 DG - - 1.00 - Phytokine 2.00 1.50 2.00 2.00 Ridulisse C 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Liftiline 2.00 3.00 2.00 3.00 Matrixyl 3000 - 2.00 - - Olea europ. Fol extr. S. sicc. - - - 0.10 Perfume 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

2. Skin creams:

The compositions 2.1-2.3 are preferred embodiments of day creams for particularly demanding skin with an anti-cellulite effect or an effect for improving the silhouette of the face, in particular in the chin area, with a content of anti-aging active ingredients. 2.1 2.2 2.3 Cetearyl Isononanoate 4.00 4.00 4.00 Mineral oil 6.00 6.00 6.00 Cutina CBS 2.00 2.00 2.00 Palmitic Acid / Stearic Acid 1.50 1.50 1.50 Eumulgin B3 1.00 1.00 1.00 Baysilone oil M 350 1.00 1.00 1.00 Tocopheryl acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 Propylparaben 0.30 0.30 0.30 Pemulen TR 1 0.27 0.27 0.27 glycerin 5.00 3.00 3.00 Lactic Acid 80% 0.26 0.26 0.26 propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 methylparaben 0.30 0.30 0.30 phenoxyethanol 0.90 0.90 0.90 Phytokine 2.00 1.50 2.00 Ridulisse C 0.50 0.50 0.50 Liftiline 2.00 3.00 2.00 Sepigel 305 0.50 0.50 0.50 Silk protein 0.25 0.25 0.25 taurine 1.00 0.50 2.00 Calmosensine 1.00 2.00 - Keltrol SF 0.20 0.20 0.20 N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea 4.30 2.50 8.60 Perfume 0.30 0.30 0.30 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 1.00 - 1.00 Keratec Pep - 2.00 - creatine - - 1.00 retinol 0.10 - - deliner - 2.00 - Fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus 1 0.5 0.8 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

3rd day creams:

The compositions 3.1-3.5 are preferred embodiments of day creams for particularly demanding skin with an anti-cellulite effect or an effect for improving the silhouette of the face, in particular in the chin area, with a content of anti-aging active ingredients. 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 Lipoid S 75-3 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Isopropylstearate 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Dibutyl adipate 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Tocopheryl acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Cutina MD 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Behenyl alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Baysilone oil M 350 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dow Corning 9040 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 glycerol 3.00 4.50 3.00 3.00 3.00 hexanediol 6.00 3.00 - - 4.00 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Tego carbomer 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 Algae Extract 1.00 - - - - Photo Somes 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dimethylmethoxy chromanol 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Phytokine 2.00 1.50 2.00 2.00 1.50 Ridulisse C 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Liftiline 2.00 3.00 2.00 2.00 3.00 Caomint 1.00 - 2.00 2.00 2.00 Calmosensine 1.00 2.00 - 1.00 1.00 Kombuchka 3.00 3.00 - - 2.00 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate - - 1.00 1.00 1.00 Fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus 0.5 1 2.5 5 3 Natrulon RC50DG - - - - 1.00 deliner - - 2.00 1.00 - Matrixyl 3000 1.00 1.00 - - 1.00 Simulgel NS 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 Sodium benzoate - 0.20 0.50 - - phenoxyethanol 0.50 - - - - Symdiol 68 0.30 0.50 0.30 - - TiO ₂ 0.50 0.50 - - - Hydro Vance 2.50 4.30 8.60 8.60 8.60 Silymarin phytosome 0.30 - - - 0.50 Ectoin 0.50 - 0.50 0.50 0.50 Vitamin B6 - - 0.01 0.01 0.01 Perfume 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

The compositions 3.6-3.11 are preferred embodiments of nourishing creams having a gel-like consistency with an anticellulite effect or an effect for improving the silhouette of the face, in particular in the chin area, with an effect improved according to the invention. 3.6 3.7 3.8 3.9 3.10 3.11 2-ethylhexyl palmitate 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Dow Corning 1403 Fluid 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Synperonic PE L 64 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Dow Corning 9040 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 dipropylene 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Tego Carbomer 140 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 Perfume 0.35 0.30 0.35 0.35 0.30 0.30 Phenoxyethanol, pure 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 Fermentation product of 0.70 0.07 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 Plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus Natrulon RC-50DG - 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 Menthyl lactate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Ethanol 96% DEP denatured 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Caffeine anhydrous 0.50 - 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Ridulisse C - - - 0.50 - - Simulgel NS 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 Matrixyl - - - - 2.00 - Matrixyl 3000 - - - - - 2.00 Sodium hydroxide beads 0.081 0.081 0.081 0.081 0.081 0.081 Water, demineralized ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00

4th example series:

The compositions 4.1-4.5 are preferred embodiments of day creams with higher sunscreen (SPF about 10-15) for particularly demanding skin with an anti-cellulite effect or an effect to improve the silhouette of the face, especially in the chin area, with a content on antiageing agents. 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 Montanov 68 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Myritol 318 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Cetiol SB 45 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Novata AB 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Stenol 1618 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Baysilon M350 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 tocopheryl acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 Controx KS 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Parsol SLX - 4.00 4.00 - - Parsol HS - 2.00 2.00 2.00 - Neo Heliopan AP - - - 1.00 - Parsol 340 - - - 5.00 - Uvinul MBC 95 2.00 - - - - Parsol 1789 1.00 1.80 1.80 - - Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Tego Carbomer 140 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 1,6-hexanediol 6.00 6.00 3.00 6.00 - talc 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 glycerin 4.50 4.50 3.00 4.50 3.00 Dry Flo Plus 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Natipide 2 PG 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 phenoxyethanol 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 caffeine 0.50 1.00 - - 0.35 carnitine - 0.10 0.50 - - Matrixyl 3000 1.00 - - 4.00 2.00 Ridulisse C - - 3.00 - 0.50 Perfume 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

5. Water-in-oil emulsion

The compositions 5.1-5.3 are preferred embodiments of creams having an anti-cellulite effect or effect for improving the silhouette of the face, in particular in the chin area, based on a rich water-in-oil emulsion which is massaged into the skin and thereby creates an additional bonus effect. 5.1 5.2 5.3 Lameform TGI 3.00 3.00 3.00 Elfacos ST 37 0.50 0.50 0.50 Microcrystalline wax 3.00 3.00 3.00 Softisan 649 1.00 1.00 1.00 paraffin oil 8.00 8.00 8.00 vaseline 2.00 2.00 2.00 Vitamin E acetate 2.00 2.00 2.00 methylparaben 0.30 0.30 0.30 Propylparaben 0.30 0.30 0.30 isopropyl 8.00 8.00 8.00 1,3-butylene glycol 5.00 6.00 7.00 caffeine 0.50 0.50 - carnitine - 0.10 0.50 Lactic acid 80% 0.60 0.60 0.60 panthenol 0.5 1.0 0.5 Fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus 0.5 1.0 1.2 Hydro Vance 2.00 4.00 - Perfume 0.2 0.2 0.2 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

6. Tonic

Compositions 6.1-6.3 are preferred embodiments of face lotions having a firming effect to enhance the silhouette of the face and the complexion of the complexion, especially in tired skin. 6.1 6.2 6.3 dipropylene 10.00 10.00 10.00 Chlorhexidindigluconat 1.00 1.00 1.00 Synperonic PE7 L 64 3.00 3.00 3.00 D-panthenol 0.50 0.50 0.50 Hydagen CMF 3.00 3.00 3.00 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Trideceth 9 / Propylene Glycol 0.50 0.50 0.50 Fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria 0.8 0.8 0.8 gigantea with lactobacillus Caomint 0.50 0.50 0.50 caffeine 0.20 - - Ridulisse C 1.00 - - Fucogel 1000 - - 1.00 betaine - 1.00 - Perfume 0.20 0.20 0.20 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

7. Water-in-silicone emulsions

The compositions 7.1-7.3 are preferred embodiments of creams having an anti-cellulite effect or an effect for improving the silhouette of the face, in particular in the chin region, with improved skin compatibility according to the invention, based on a rich, yet non-greasy water-in Silicone emulsion that can be massaged into the skin. 7.1 7.2 7.3 Belsil DM 100 2.50 2.50 2.50 Dow Corning 245 Fluid 25,00 25,00 25,00 Abil EM 90 2.00 2.00 2.00 sodium chloride 2.00 2.00 2.00 Symdiol 68 0.30 0.30 0.30 phenoxyethanol 0.40 0.40 0.40 Fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus 0.90 0.90 0.90 caffeine - 0.20 - Ridulisse C - 2.00 1.00 Rhamnosoft 2.00 - - Hydro Vance - 3.00 - folic acid - - 0.10 Perfume 0.30 0.30 0.30 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

8. Example series:

The compositions 8.1-8.4 are preferred embodiments of day creams for particularly demanding skin with an anti-cellulite effect or an effect for improving the silhouette of the face, in particular in the chin area, with an increased content of various anti-aging active ingredients. 8.1 8.2 8.3 8.4 safflower oil 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Myritol 318 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Novata AB 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Behenyl alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Cutina MD 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 isopropyl 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Shea butter 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Baysilone oil M 350 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Controx KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dow Corning 1501 Fluid 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Dry Flo Plus 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 TiO ₂ 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 hexanediol 6.00 3.00 - - propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 glycerol 5.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Tego carbomer 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 seaweed extract 1.00 - - - Symdiol 68 0.30 0.50 - - DSH CN 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Hydro Vance 4.30 2.50 8.60 10.00 caffeine - 0.30 - 0.10 Natrulon RC 50 DG - - 1.00 - Phytokine 2.00 - - Matrixyl 3000 - 2.00 - - Ridulisse C - - 2.00 2.50 Argireline 1.00 - - - Sepilift DPHP - 0.10 - - Modulene - - 1.00 - Collaxyl - - - 2.00 Ederline H 2.00 - - - Perfume 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

9. Skin creams:

The compositions 9.1-9.3 are further preferred embodiments of creams for particularly demanding skin with an anti-cellulite effect or an effect for improving the silhouette of the face, in particular in the chin area, with an increased content of various anti-aging active ingredients. 9.1 9.2 9.3 Cetearyl Isononanoate 4.00 4.00 4.00 Mineral oil 6.00 6.00 6.00 Cutina CBS 2.00 2.00 2.00 Cutina FS 45 1.50 1.50 1.50 Eumulgin B3 1.00 1.00 1.00 Baysilone oil M 350 1.00 1.00 1.00 tocopheryl acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 Propylparaben 0.30 0.30 0.30 Pemulen TR 1 0.27 0.27 0.27 1,3-butylene glycol 5.00 3.00 3.00 Lactic Acid 80% 0.26 0.26 0.26 propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 methylparaben 0.30 0.30 0.30 phenoxyethanol 0.90 0.90 0.90 Fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus 0.7 0.7 0.7 pantolactone 0.50 - - Seanergilium BG - 1.00 - sodium chloride 0.05 0.05 0.05 Sepigel 305 0.50 0.50 0.50 Calmosensine 1.00 2.00 - Keltrol SF 0.20 0.20 0.20 Hydro Vance 4.30 2.50 8.60 sodium ascorbyl 1.00 - - Keratec Pep - 2.00 - creatine - - 0.10 retinol 0.10 - - caffeine 0.20 - - Perfume 0.30 0.30 0.30 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

10. Skin creams based on a lipoprotein cream

The compositions 10.1-10.6 are preferred embodiments of creams having an anti-cellulite effect or an effect for improving the silhouette of the face, in particular in the chin area, with particular skin tolerance and a content of various anti-aging active ingredients, based on a particularly mild emulsion base with a natural protein-emulsifier (HIBISCIN HP ^® LS 9198). 10.1 10.2 10.3 10.4 10.5 10.6 Myritol ^® PC 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 Lanette ^® 22 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Cutina ^® GMS-V 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Stenol ^® 16/18 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 safflower oil 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Controx ^® KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Baysilon ^® M350 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 isopropyl 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 Propylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 1,3-butylene glycol 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 1,6-hexanediol 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 methylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 HIBISCIN ^® HP LS 9198 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 citric acid 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Simulgel ^® NS 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus 2.0 1.7 1.5 1.3 1.2 1.0 Pearl Protein Extract - - 2.00 - - 1.00 caffeine 0.30 0.30 0.30 - - - Ridulisse C 1.00 0.50 1.00 - - - carnitine 0.20 - - 0.50 0.30 0.30 Matrixyl 3000 3.00 - - - 2.00 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

11. Cleansing gels with slimming effect or anticellulite effect:

The compositions 11.1-11.3 are preferred embodiments of cleansing gels having an anti-cellulite effect or an effect for improving the silhouette of the face, in particular in the chin region, with improved skin compatibility according to the invention. 11.1 11.2 11.3 Carbomer 1.40 1.40 1.40 1,3-butylene glycol 4.00 4.00 4.00 Sodium benzoate 0.40 0.40 0.40 Plantar ^® 1200 7.50 7.50 7.50 Dehyton ^® K 3.40 3.40 3.40 Texapon.RTM ^® SB 3 5.00 5.00 5.00 Cetiol ^® HE 0.50 0.50 0.50 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 5.00 5.00 5.00 Controx KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid 1.60 1.60 - Pantolactone 1.00 1.00 - Tetrasodium EDTA 0.25 0.25 0.25 Sodium lactate 1.80 - - panthenol 0.50 0.50 0.50 Fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus 1.0 1.0 1.0 caffeine 0.30 0.30 0.30 Ridulisse C 1.00 - - carnitine 0.20 - 0.20 Perfume 0.40 0.40 0.40 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

12. Two-phase anti-cellulite massage fluid for the body skin

The compositions 12.1 and 12.2 are preferred embodiments of massage fluids having an anti-cellulite effect or an effect for improving the silhouette of the face, in particular in the chin area, with improved skin tolerance according to the invention, based on a biphasic composition which is shaken off immediately before use An emulsion is transferred and is particularly easy to massage into the skin. The composition produces a pleasantly refreshing skin sensation. 12.1 12.2 Ôcaline 1.000000 1.000000 Lactic acid 80% DAB 0.100000 0.100000 Disodium phosphate anhydrous 0.100000 0.100000 D-panthenol 75% 0.100000 0.100000 Perfume 0.150000 0.150000 Brij 30 0.500000 0.500000 Trisiloxane fluid 1 cs 20.000000 20.000000 Fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus 1.100000 1.500000 caffeine 0.500000 - theobromine 0.300000 Ridulisse C 1.000000 - carnitine 0.200000 - Ethanol 96% 10.000000 10.000000 Water, demineralized ad 100,000000 ad 100,000000 13. Examples of compositions for soaking wipes ingredients 13.1 13.2 13.3 13.4 Phase 1 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.1 0.1 0.1 - Trideceth-9 0.1 0.1 0.1 - Perfume 0.3 0.1 0.1 0.1 Phase 2 hexyl laurate 2.0 - - - dicaprylyl - - 2.0 - dipropylene - 2.0 - - Phase 3 allantoin 0.5 - - - Citric acid (monohydrate) 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Trisodium citrate (dihydrate) 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 decyl glucoside - - - 2.0 Pemulen TR 1 - - - 0.2 Fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus 1.0 2.0 1.0 1.5 caffeine 0.30 0.30 0.30 - Ridulisse C 1.00 0.50 1.00 - carnitine 0.20 - - 0.50 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

Various viscose nonwovens were equipped with these impregnating compositions. Perforated, unperforated, dimpled, single-ply, two-ply and three-ply nonwovens were finished. The wipes were both wet wipes and dry wipes (that is, after finishing, the wipes were dried to a residual water content of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, in order to use just before use Amount of water to be re-wetted or applied to damp skin).

Knotted cloths (for example with hot-sprayed plastic knobs) and cloths with a coarse surface structure have proven to be particularly preferred since they support the desired massage effect particularly advantageously.

Such slimming wipes are particularly advantageous for use on the go. 14. Matrix plaster with anti-cellulite effect 14.1 14.2 14.3 14.4 14.5 DURO-TAK ^® 387-2516 76 76 76 76 76 Aloe vera gel 1 - 1 - - Propylenglycolmonooleat 5 5 - - - Tween ^® -80 - - 5 3 5 sodium citrate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Controx ^® KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus 0.7 0.8 0.9 0.7 0.5 caffeine 0.30 0.30 0.30 - - Ridulisse C 1.00 0.50 1.00 - - carnitine 0.20 - - 0.50 0.30 Matrixyl 3000 3.00 - - - 2.00 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 15. Reservoir patch with anti-cellulite effect Components of the drug reservoir 15.1 15.2 Fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus 2.0 2.0 caffeine 0.30 0.30 Ridulisse C - 0.50 carnitine 0.50 - Ederline H 1.0 1.0 Carbopol ^® 980 0.5 - Pemulen ^® TR 1 - 0.5 NaOH 0.1 0.1 Titanium dioxide 0.2 0.2 ethanol 1.0 1.0 polyvinyl alcohol 2.0 1.0 carboxymethylcellulose 1.0 0.5 glycerin 10 20 sorbitol 7.0 5.0 1,3-butanediol 3.0 3.0 Tween ^® -80 0.05 0.05 paraffin oil 5.0 2.0 sodium citrate 0.1 0.1 Controx KS 0.05 0.05 water ad 100 ad 100

The ingredients of the drug reservoir formulations 15.1 and 15.2 were mixed together to form a gel-like mass. With this mass paving carriers were coated so that so-called reservoir plasters were obtained. These patches are applied to both dry skin and moisturized skin, where they remain for a few seconds to a few hours.

16. Body creams

The following formulations 16.1 and 16.2 are examples of anticellulite body creams according to the invention. These are preferably massaged into the skin of the thighs and buttocks. 16.1 16.2 Paraffin Liquidum 20.00 20.00 Arlacel 165 4.00 4.00 Eutanol G 1.00 1.00 Cetiol SN 1.50 1.50 Cremophor A 6 2.00 2.00 behenyl 1.60 1.60 Silicone oil 350 cs 3.00 3.00 Brij 721 VP 0.40 0.40 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 Controx KS 0.25 0.25 1,2-propanediol 3.00 3.00 Glycerin 86% vegetable 5.00 5.00 Polyethylene glycol MG 400 1.70 1.70 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 Phenoxyethanol, pure 0.50 0.50 Carbopol ETD 2020 0.50 0.50 Sodium hydroxide beads 0.03 0.03 Citric acid monohydrate 0.10 0.10 Trisodium citrate dihydrate 0.10 0.10 Fermentation product of plant parts of Arundarinaria gigantea with Lactobacillus 2.00 1.50 caffeine 0.50 0.50 carnitine 0.20 0.20 Herbasol extract Capsicum - 0.50 Perfume 0.30 0.20 Simulgel NS 1.00 1.10 water ad 100.00 ad 100.00 List of raw materials used trade name INCI name Supplier / Manufacturer Abil EM 90 Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone Degussa Argireline Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 Lipotec Arlacel 165 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate Uniqema Baysilone oil M 350 Dimethicone (350 cSt) GE Bayer Silicones Belsil DM 100 Dimethicone (100 cSt) brave Brij 30 Laureth-4 Uniqema Brij 721 VP STEARETH-21 Uniqema Calmiskin Water (and) Mentha piperita (Peppermint) leaf extract Silab Calmosensine BUTYLENE GLYCOL, WATER, LAURETH-3, Sederma HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester Caomint Propylene Glycol, Aqua, Mentha piperita, Theobroma cacao Solabia Carbopol 980 Carbomer Noveon Carbopol ETD 2020 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Noveon Cetiol ^® B Dibutyl adipate Cognis Cetiol ^® HE PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate Cognis Cetiol ^® SB45 Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter) Cognis Cetiol ^® SN Cetearyl Isononanoate Cognis Controx KS Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate Cognis Cremophor A6 CETEARETH-6, STEARYL ALCOHOL BASF Cutina CBS Glyceryl Stearate / Cetearyl Alcohol / Cetyl Palmitate / Cocoglycerides in the weight ratio 7: 1: 1: 1 Cognis Cutina GMS Glyceryl stearate (mixture of glyceryl mono- and distearate) Cognis Cutina MD Glyceryl stearate (mixture of glyceryl mono- and distearate) Cognis deliner Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan gum Coletica Dow Corning 1501 Fluid Cyclomethicones (85-86% by weight), dimethiconol (14-15% by weight) Dow Corning Dow Corning 200 Dimethicone (0.65 cSt) Dow Corning Dow Corning 9040 Cyclomethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer (87-88% / 12-13%) Dow Corning Dow ^Corning® 200 Fluid Dimethicone (5 cSt) Dow Corning Dow ^Corning® 245 Fluid Cyclomethicone Dow Corning Dry Flo Plus Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate National Starch DSH CN Water, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate Exsymol DURO-TAK ^® 387-2516 Polyacrylates, ethylcellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone National Starch and Chemical EDENOR L2 SM Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid (about 1: 1) Cognis Ederline H PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract Seporga Elfacos ST 37 PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer Akzo Nobel Emulgade® ^® SE Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Cetea-reth-12, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate Cognis Enteline 2 Butylene Glycol, Glycerine, Hydrolyzed Enteromorpha compressa Biotech Marine Eumulgin B 3 Ceteareth-30 Cognis Eusolex ^® OCR Octocrylene Merck KGaA Eutanol G octyldodecanol Cognis Exsy Algine ACETYL CITRULL AMIDO ARGININE Exsymol Fucogel 1000 Biosaccharides Gum-1 Solabia Glistin Water, L-Glutamylaminoethyl indole Exsymol Herbasol extract Capsicum Propylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract, Sorbitol Cosmetochem HIBISCIN ^® HP-LS-9198 Water, Hibiscus esculentus seed extract, phenoxyethanol Laboratoires Sérobiologiques Hydagen CMF Chitosan glycolate Cognis Hydro Vance Water, bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, urea, ammonium lactate National Starch Keltrol SF Xanthan gum Kelco Keratec Pep Water, Hydrolyzed Keratin Croda Keratolite AQUA (WATER), MALIC ACID, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS (SWEET ALMOND) FRUIT EXTRACT, SODIUM BENZOATE, PHENOXYETHANOL, METHYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN, ETHYLPARABEN Coletica Kombuchka Saccharomyces / xylinum / Black Tea ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethylcellulose Sederma Lameform TGI Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate Cognis Lamesoft ^® PO 65 Coco Glucosides, Glyceryl Oleate, Water Cognis LANETTE ^® 22 Behenyl alcohol Cognis LANETTE ^® O Cetearyl Alcohol Cognis Liftiline Aqua, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (7-10% by weight of active substance) Silab Lipochroman 6 DIMETHYL METHOXY CHROMANOL Lipotec Lipoid S 75-3 Aqua, lecithin Lipoid GmbH Matrixyl Aqua, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 Sederma Matrixyl 3000 Glycerine, Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-1 Sederma Montanov 68 Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside Seppic Montanov L. C14-22 Alcohols / C12-20 Alkyl Glucosides Seppic Myritol 318 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides Cognis MYRITOL ^® PC PROPYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE Cognis Natipide II PG Aqua, Propylene glycol, lecithin Phospholipid GmbH Natrulon RC 50 DG WATER, CARNITINE, POLYGLYCERINE-10 Lonza Neo Heliopan AP Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonates Symrise Novata AB Cocoglycerides Cognis Ôcaline Sea Water (and) Water (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract Soliance Olea europ. Fol extr. S. sicc. Olea Europea (Olive) Leaf Extract Fruitarom Omega-CH-activator Tripeptide-1 GfN Parsol 1789 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE DSM Parsol 340 Octocrylene DSM Parsol HS PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID DSM Parsol SLX Polysilicone-15 DSM Pearl Protein Extract Aqua, Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein Maruzen Pemulen TR 1 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Noveon Photo Somes Aqua, lecithin, plancton extract AGI Dermatics Phytokine Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben (0.4-0.8 wt% Active Ingredient) Coletica Plantar ^® 1200 Lauryl Glucoside, about 50% active ingredient Cognis Rhamnosoft Biosaccharides Gum-2 Solabia Ridulisse C Water, HYDROLYZED SOY PROTEIN (3-5% by weight of active substance) Silab Seanergilium BG Butylenes Glicol, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Methylparaben Coletica Sepigel ^® 305 Aqua (water) polyacrylamide, C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin, laureth-7 (active substance thickener polymer about 45-49% by weight) SEPPIC Sepilift DPHP Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline Seppic Silymarin phytosome Silybum Marianum Extract and Phospholipids Indena SpA Simulgel NS Aqua (water) / hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer / squalane / polysorbate 60 Seppic Softisan 649 Bis-diglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2 Sasol Stenol 16/18 cetearyl Cognis Symdiol 68 1,2-octanediol, 1,2-hexanediol Symrise Synperonic PE L 64 Poloxamer 184 Uniqema Tego Carbomer 140 Carbomer Degussa Texapon.RTM ^® SB3 Aqua, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, (about 40% active ingredient), Citric Acid Cognis Tween ^® -80 Polysorbate-80 Uvinul MBC 95 4-METHYLBENZYLIDENE CAMPHOR BASF

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited non-patent literature

• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0046]
• J. Varani et al., Reduced Fibroblast Interaction with Intact Collagen as a Mechanism for Depressed Collagen Synthesis in Photodamaged Skin, J. Invest. Dermatol. 122, 1471-1479, 2004 [0099]

Claims (10)

Cosmetic or dermatological composition for the topical treatment of the skin, comprising in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier at least one fermentation product of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one further active ingredient selected from a) purine and purine derivatives, b) natural betaine compounds, c) urea and alkyl - or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas, d) monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, e) polysaccharides, f) hyperemic agents, and g) mixtures the substances a) -f). A composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the fermentation product of Arundarinaria gigantea was obtained by fermentation of parts of plants with Lactobacillus. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the purine derivative is chosen from compounds of general structure (PUR-II),

wherein in the formula (PUR-II), the radicals R ⁶ , R ⁷ and R ⁸ , which may be the same or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, a C ₁ -C ₄ monohydroxyalkyl radical , a C ₂ -C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkoxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a C ₁ -C ₄ -aminoalkyl radical, a hydroxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylamino, C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkoxy, C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl or (di-C ₁ -C ₄ -alkylamino) - (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -Alkyl, an optionally substituted aryl group, in particular a phenyl group, an optionally substituted heteroaryl group and an aryl-C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the purine derivative is chosen from compounds of general structure (PUR-II) in which R ⁶ = R ⁷ = R ⁸ = CH ₃ (caffeine) or R ⁶ = H and R ⁷ = R ⁸ = CH ₃ (theobromine) or R ⁸ = H and R ⁶ = R ⁷ = CH ₃ (theophylline). Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one natural betaine compound is chosen from betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^- ) and carnitine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^- ), each with Me = methyl. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea compound is bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one monomer of the amino acids and / or NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids is chosen from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, desmosine , Glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine , N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one active substance which enhances and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts - apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), - lotus germ extracts (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract), Corn kernel extracts (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract), - red wine extracts, Grape seed extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract), which are preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape, Extracts of black elderflower (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract), Mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of peppermint leaves (Mentha piperita), Hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol and / or resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric acid esters and salts thereof, furthermore from piceatannol, piceatannol ethers and Pinosylvin and Pinosylvinethern Isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts, - dihydroquercetin (= taxifolin), - And mixtures thereof. Non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1-8 for the anti-cellulite treatment of the skin and / or for increasing the skin firmness and / or for improving the mechanical stability of the skin and / or for increasing the skin elasticity and / or skin firmness and / or smoothing of the skin and / or improving the visual appearance of the skin and / or stimulating microcirculation in the skin and / or promoting lipolysis in the subcutis and / or inhibiting lipogenesis in the skin the subcutis. Use of an active ingredient combination of at least one fermentation product of Arundarinaria gigantea and at least one further active ingredient selected from a) purine alkaloids, b) monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, as well as mixtures of these active compounds, c) natural betaine compounds, d) urea and N-alkyl-substituted urea derivatives, e) polysaccharides, f) hyperemicating active compounds, and g) mixtures of the active compounds a) -f), for the preparation a cosmetic or dermatological composition - for the treatment of cellulite and / or - to increase skin firmness and / or - to improve the mechanical stability of the skin and / or - to increase the elasticity of the skin and / or - to tighten the skin and / or - Smoothing of the skin and / or - to improve the visual appearance of H aut - to stimulate microcirculation in the skin and / or - to support lipolysis in the subcutis and / or - to inhibit lipogenesis in the subcutis.