DE102009039393A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological topical composition, useful e.g. for minimizing wrinkles, comprises dormancy-regulating agents containing Leucojum aestivum extract and active ingredient e.g. carotenes, xanthophylls or baicalin in carrier - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological topical composition (A) comprises, in a carrier, (a) at least one dormancy-regulating agents containing extract of Leucojum aestivum, and (b) 0.0001-10 wt.% of at least one active ingredient e.g. 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dalkylchromane or chromene compounds (I) or (II), Vitis viniferapolyphenols, carotenes, xanthophylls, baicalin, dihydroquercetin, ellagic acid and/or ellagate, superoxide dismutase, hyaluronic acid, apple seed extract, isoflavones, phytosterols and triterpenoids. Cosmetic or dermatological topical composition (A) comprises, in a carrier, (a) at least one dormancy-regulating agents containing extract of Leucojum aestivum, and (b) 0.0001-10 wt.% of at least one active ingredient comprising antioxidants comprising 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dalkylchromane or chromene compounds of formula (I) or (II), Vitis viniferapolyphenols, carotenes (preferably alpha -carotene, beta -carotene or lycopene), xanthophylls (preferably astaxanthin or lutein), antioxidant extracts from Tinospora crispa, baicalin, dihydroquercetin, ellagic acid and/or ellagate, superoxide dismutase, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, N-2-24C-acylamino acids, esters, and/or their metal salts, active agents (aa) that stimulate the enzymatic activity or the expression of the L-isoform of lysyl oxidase and comprises extracts of Dill ( Peucedanum graveolens), preferably dill seeds, others from currant, cardamom ( Elettaria cardamomum), black radish, small holly, cinnamon, oats ( Avena sativa), potato, silk and asafetida gum, hydrophilic extracts of Hibiscus abelmoschus, preferably protein fractions from the seeds of Hibiscus abelmoschus, hyaluronic acid, apple seed extract, isoflavones, phytosterols and triterpenoids. R1 : OH; R2 : OCH 3; and R3, R4 : CH 3. [Image] ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The The invention relates to topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for skin treatment that counteract skin aging and its signs.

medium and treatment methods to treat mature or intrinsic or extrinsically aged or photodamaged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, are a significant cosmetic challenge. The aging process is characterized by a progressive transition of skin cells from a proliferative status into a resting, senescent status. This transition corresponds to aging at the cellular level, on which much is the macroscopic aging effects can be traced. The number of cells in the tissue decreases and can be due to a lack of proliferating Cells are no longer refilled. Thereby can no repairs of the surrounding tissue performed Defects accumulate, causing the skin to become atrophic and slackened. This effect is reinforced among other things also by UV light, which also pollutes the skin and its aging and relaxation accelerates, among other things by free radicals.

Of the Present invention was based on the object preparations for Treatment and significant reduction in manifestations of To provide skin aging, the market so far Outperform products. It was another Object of the present invention, a new, stable and cosmetically effective skincare preparation for the prophylaxis and treatment of Skin aging symptoms, in particular wrinkles and wrinkles, to develop. In particular, the skin care preparation should have a have the highest possible antioxidant activity to free To be able to intercept radicals.

It It has now been found that the known compositions in Their properties can be improved if certain per se known anti-aging ingredients in these agents with a Dormancy-regulating agents containing extract of Leucojum aestivum (summer knot flower). Cosmetic products with combinations of at least one Dormanzregulierende agents containing extract of Leucojum aestivum and at least one Active substance, the collagen or glycosaminoglucan synthesis, epidermis differentiation and / or improving elastin integrity and / or a high level of elastin integrity has an antioxidant effect, lead to a more youthful Appearance and appearance of the treated skin.

From Leucojum aestivum, in particular from onions or tubers, it is possible to extract at least one dormancy-regulating active ingredient, in particular with a hydrophilic solvent. A particularly preferred dormancy-regulating active substance is abscisic acid with the historical name Dormin and the systematic name (2Z, 4E) -5 - ((S) -1-hydroxy-2,6,6-trimethyl-4-oxo-2-cyclohexenyl ) -3-methyl-2,4-pentadienoic acid and the following structural formula:

Cosmetic compositions containing Dormanz-regulating agents extract from Leucojum aestivum are known from US 6342254 , Cosmetic compositions containing abscisic acid are known WO 2002/055048 A1 . WO 2004/004680 A2 . JP 2002047169 A and JP 2008074725 A ,

• a) mindestens einen Extrakt aus Leucojum aestivum, der mindestens einen Dormanz-regulierenden Wirkstoff enthält,
• b) 0,0001 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines Wirkstoffes aus der Gruppe
• – der Antioxidantien, ausgewählt aus:
• – den 6,7-disubstituierten 2,2-Dialkylchromanen oder -chromenen der allgemeinen Formeln (I) oder (II),
  
  wobei R¹ eine OH-Gruppe, R² eine Methoxy-Gruppe und R³ und R⁴ Methylgruppen darstellen, und/oder
• – Vitis vinifera-Polyphenolen, und/oder
• – den Carotinen, bevorzugt α-Carotin, β-Carotin und Lycopin, und/oder
• – den Xanthophyllen, bevorzugt Astaxanthin und Lutein, und/oder
• – den antioxidativ wirkenden Extrakten aus Tinospora crispa und/oder
• – Baicalin, und/oder
• – Dihydroquercetin, und/oder
• – Ellagsäure und/oder Ellagaten und/oder
• – der Superoxiddismutasen;
• – der Oligomeren und Polymeren von Aminosäuren, N-C₂-C₂₄-Acylaminosäuren, den Estern und/oder den physiologisch verträglichen Metallsalzen dieser Substanzen und/oder
• – der Wirkstoffe, die die enzymatische Aktivität oder die Expression der L-Isoform der Lysyloxidase (LOXL) stimulieren und die ausgewählt sind aus Extrakten der Gruppe, bestehend aus Dill (Peucedanum Graveolens), insbesondere Dill-Samen, weiterhin aus Korinthe (Johannisbeere), Kardamom (Elettaria cardamomum), schwarzem Rettich, kleiner Stechpalme, Zimt, Hafer (Avena sativa), Kartoffel, Seide und Asea foetida gum, und/oder
• – der hydrophilen Extrakte aus Hibiscus Abelmoschus, insbesondere der Protein-Fraktionen aus den Samen von Hibiscus Abelmoschus,
• – Hyaluronsäure und/oder
• – Apfelkernextrakt und/oder
• – der Isoflavonoide und/oder
• – der Phytosterole und/oder
• – der Triterpenoide.

In a first embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological topical compositions comprising, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, based on their weight,

• a) at least one extract of Leucojum aestivum containing at least one dormancy-regulating active substance,
• b) 0.0001 to 10 wt .-% of at least one active ingredient from the group
• - the antioxidants selected from:
• The 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dialkylchromans or chromenes of the general formulas (I) or (II),
  
  wherein R ^{1 is} an OH group, R ^{2 is} a methoxy group and R ³ and R ^{4 are} methyl groups, and / or
• Vitis vinifera polyphenols, and / or
• The carotenes, preferably α-carotene, β-carotene and lycopene, and / or
• The xanthophylls, preferably astaxanthin and lutein, and / or
• - the antioxidant extracts of Tinospora crispa and / or
• - Baicalin, and / or
• Dihydroquercetin, and / or
• - ellagic acid and / or ellagates and / or
• - the superoxide dismutases;
• - The oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl amino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances and / or
• The active substances which stimulate the enzymatic activity or the expression of the L-isoform of lysyl oxidase (LOXL) and which are selected from extracts of the group consisting of dill (Peucedanum graveolens), in particular dill-seed, furthermore currant (currant), Cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum), black radish, small holly, cinnamon, oats (Avena sativa), potato, silk and Asea foetida gum, and / or
• - the hydrophilic extracts from Hibiscus Abelmoschus, in particular the protein fractions from the seeds of Hibiscus Abelmoschus,
• - hyaluronic acid and / or
• - apple seed extract and / or
• The isoflavonoids and / or
• - the phytosterols and / or
• - the triterpenoids.

One Extract for the purposes of the present application is a substance or mixture of substances, by extraction and partial or complete evaporation the extraction solution or partial or complete Removal of the extractant was recovered. One differentiates by nature dry extracts, d. H. to the dry evaporated extracts, fluid extracts, d. H. with solvents so extracts prepared that from a part drug at most 2 parts of fluid extract are obtained, viscous Extracts or thickness extracts, d. H. Extracts where part of the Solvent is evaporated.

The extracts used according to the invention are obtained from the respective plant parts or mixtures thereof by extraction, preferably with organic solvents, water or mixtures thereof. Preferred organic solvents are ketones (eg acetone), ethers, esters, alcohols or halogenated hydrocarbons. Particularly preferred extractants are water and / or alcohols. Among the alcohols, C ₁ to C ₆ alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, both as the sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Particularly preferred extractants are water, ethanol, 2-propanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and methylene chloride (CH ₂ Cl ₂ ), very particular preference is given to water, ethanol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-propanol and 1,2-propylene glycol and mixtures thereof, in particular mixtures of water and 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol. Methylene chloride is also a particularly preferred extractant. For toxicological reasons, however, this extractant should be completely removed before use in the cosmetic composition.

The Extraction is preferred at a temperature of 25 ° C up to 90 ° C performed.

Especially preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that the extract is at least one polar Solvent selected from ethanol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerol and water, and mixtures thereof, contains. Extremely preferred invention Cosmetic products are characterized in that the extract Contains water as a polar solvent. Further extraordinarily preferred invention Cosmetic products are characterized in that the extract Water and 1,3-butanediol as a polar solvent.

• (i) Solubilisation von Knollen bzw. Zwiebeln von Leucojum aestivum in Wasser,
• (ii) Trennung der löslichen und der unlöslichen Phase mittels Filtration,
• (iii) Sterilfiltration.

Advantageously, the extract of Leucojum aestivum according to the invention is an extract derived from the tubers or onions of Leucojum aestivum. It is preferably a water-soluble extract and in particular an aqueous-polyol extract. This extract is advantageously obtained according to the following protocol:

• (i) solubilization of tubers or onions of Leucojum aestivum in water,
• (ii) separation of the soluble and insoluble phases by filtration,
• (iii) sterile filtration.

In Another preferred extraction method is the solubilization step (i) in the presence of water and a polyol solvent, selected from 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and glycerin. In a particularly preferred Extraction method is the solubilization step (i) in the presence of water and 1,3-butylene glycol.

Depending on the choice of the extraction agent, it may be preferable to stabilize the extract by adding a solubilizer. Suitable solubilizers are, for. B. Ethoxylation products of optionally hydrogenated vegetable and animal oils. Preferred solubilizers are ethoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides of C _8-22 fatty acids having from 4 to 50 ethylene oxide units, e.g. Hydrogenated ethoxylated castor oil, olive oil ethoxylate, almond oil ethoxylate, mink oil ethoxylate, polyoxyethylene glycol caprylic / capric acid glycerides, polyoxyethylene glycerol monolaurate and polyoxyethylene glycol coconut fatty acid glycerides. Olive oil ethoxylate (INCI name: PEG-10 Olive Glycerides) is particularly preferred.

The Dry matter of the extract is dependent on the molecular weight and the solubility of the dispersed ingredients and is usually, in each case based on the weight of Extract, 1 to 80 wt .-%. Preferably, the dry matter is 15 to 50 wt .-% and particularly preferably 20 to 35 wt .-%. At a molecular weight The ingredients above 100,000 daltons can be a dry matter from 1 to 20 wt .-% preferred and a dry matter of 1 to 10 % By weight may be particularly preferred. Particularly preferred cosmetic Means are characterized in that the dry matter of the extract 5-80 wt .-%, based on the weight of the extract is.

According to the invention preferred Compositions contain - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.02 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 0.3% by weight dormancy-regulating Extract containing active ingredients from Leucojum aestivum, wherein the weight data on the content of extract dry matter in refer to the entire composition.

Further according to the invention preferred compositions - based on their weight - 0.00001 to 0.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.2 wt%, more preferably 0.01 to 0.1 wt%, still more preferably 0.05 to 0.08 wt .-%, at least one dormancy-regulating Active ingredient from Leucojum aestivum, preferably from abscisic acid is selected.

The agents according to the invention additionally contain extract containing dormancy-regulating agents Leucojum aestivum 0.0001 to 10 wt .-% of at least one active ingredient from the group of raw materials containing collagen and / or glycosaminoglucan synthesis, Epidermal differentiation and / or elastin integrity improve and / or have a high antioxidant activity.

bewährt, wobei R¹ eine OH-Gruppe, R² eine Methoxy-Gruppe und R³ und R⁴ Methylgruppen darstellen. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt verwendet werden die 6,7-disubstituierten 2,2-Dialkylchromane. Ein erfindungsgemäß außerordentlich bevorzugt verwendeter Wirkstoff ist 2,2-Dimethyl-6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-chroman mit der systematischen Bezeichnung 3,4-Dihydro-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-2H-1-benzopyran-6-ol und der INCI-Bezeichnung Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol. Die Substanz weist eine hohe antioxidative Wirkung auf und ist unter dem Handelsnamen Lipochroman-6 von der Firma Lipotec S. A. erhältlich.A preferred ingredient of this group is 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dialkylchromans or chromenes of general formulas (I) or (II),

Proven, wherein R ^{1 is} an OH group, R ^{2 is} a methoxy group and R ³ and R ^{4 are} methyl groups. The 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dialkylchromans are preferably used according to the invention. An extremely highly preferred active ingredient according to the invention is 2,2-dimethyl-6-hydroxy-7-methoxychromane with the systematic name 3,4-dihydro-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-2H-1-benzopyran-6 ol and the INCI name dimethylmethoxy chromanol. The substance has a high antioxidant activity and is below the Trade name Lipochroman-6 available from Lipotec SA.

Prefers are compositions of the invention, the - related on their weight - a total of 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% of 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-Dialkylchromane or -chromenes of the general formulas (I) or (II) as above defined, included.

Further preferred are compositions according to the invention, which - based on their weight - a total of 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dialkylchromans or chromenes of the general formulas (I) or (II) as defined above, and 0.01-5% by weight, preferably 0.02-1% by weight, more preferably 0.1-0.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.2-0.3 wt .-% dormancy-regulating agents, preferably Absorbic acid extract containing Leucojum aestivum contained, wherein the weight data on the content of extract dry matter in the entire composition.

When Another preferred ingredient with high antioxidant activity from this group Vitis vinifera polyphenols have been proven.

Under Polyphenols are aromatic according to the invention Understand compounds containing at least two phenolic hydroxy groups contained in the molecule. These include the three dihydroxybenzenes Catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, phloroglucin, Pyrogallol and hexahydroxybenzene. According to the invention preferred Vitis vinifera polyphenols are selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes, the oligomers of polyhydroxystilbenes, and the alkyl ethers and esters of these stilbene compounds. Under Polyhydroxystilbenes according to the invention Stilbene understood as having 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 hydroxy groups substituted on the two phenyl radicals, which esterified or can be etherified. Particularly preferred hydroxystilbene are selected from resveratrol (trans -style-3,4'-5-triol), Pinosylvin and Piceatannol. Among the oligomers of hydroxystilbenes According to the invention, dimers, trimers, tetramers, Pentamers and hexamers of mono- and Polyhydroxystilbenen understood. Most preferably, the dimers, trimers and tetramers are extraordinary preferred are the dimers of polyhydroxystilbenes. about the attack of a hydroxyl group on the ethylenic double bond another hydroxystilbene molecule under formation of a dihydrofuran ring can oligomerize hydroxystilbene. Preferred examples of the oligomers of hydroxystilbenes are the dimers of resveratrol, especially the (E) -resveratrol, the so-called viniferins, in particular the trans-epsilon-viniferin. Preferred trimers and tetramers of resveratrol are Vitisin E and Vitisin D. Other preferred Vitis vinifera polyphenols are Flavones, anthocyanidins, especially delphinidin, maldivin and Pelargonidin, catechins, epicatechins, usnic acid, and as Tannins gallic acid and the derivatives of gallic acid, Digallic acid and digalloylgallic acid. Especially preferred Polyphenols are the monomeric catechins, that is the Derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, that is the derivatives of leucoanthocyanidins, which are preferably in the 5,7,3 ', 4', 5'-position carry phenolic hydroxy groups, preferably epicatechin and epigallocatechin, and the resulting by self-condensation tannins. Such tanning agents are preferably not in isolated pure substance, but used as extracts of tannin-rich Vitis vinifera plant parts, especially the fruit skin, the seeds, the leaves, the stems, twigs, branches and the bark. Further preferred Vitis Vinifera polyphenols are flavonols, especially quercetin and Merycetin. Other preferred Vitis vinifera polyphenols are proanthocyanidins, in particular proanthocyanidin B1, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin B3 and proanthocyanidin B4. Other preferred Vitis vinifera polyphenols are di-, tri-, tetra- and pentahydroxycinnamic acids, in particular Chlorogenic acid and caffeic acid.

The Polyphenol mixtures extracted from Vitis vinifera have in the inventive combination with the dormancy-regulating agent extract from Leucojum aestivum proved to be particularly strong antioxidant.

According to the invention preferred Compositions contain - based on their weight - at least a Vitis vinifera polyphenol in a total of 0.001-2 Wt .-%, preferably 0.005-1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 Wt .-%, most preferably 0.05-0.2 wt .-%. Further preferred are compositions according to the invention, which - based on their weight - a total of 0,001-2 Wt .-%, preferably 0.005-1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 Wt%, most preferably 0.05-0.2 wt% Vitis vinifera polyphenols and 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.02 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, even more preferred 0.2 to 0.3% by weight of dormancy-regulating active substances, preferably abscisic acid, containing extract of Leucojum aestivum containing the weight data on the content of extract dry matter in refer to the entire composition.

When other preferred ingredients with high antioxidant activity Caroline have proven themselves. To the inventively preferred Carotenes include α-carotene, β-carotene and lycopene, particularly preferred is lycopene.

According to the invention preferred Compositions contain - based on their weight - at least a carotene in a total amount of 0.001-2 wt%, preferably 0.005-1% by weight, more preferably 0.01-0.5% by weight, exceptionally preferably 0.05-0.2% by weight.

Further Contain preferred compositions according to the invention at least one carotene, including preferably lycopene, in a total amount from 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.005-1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-%, extraordinarily preferably 0.05-0.2 wt .-%, and 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, still further preferably 0.2 to 0.3 wt .-% dormancy-regulating agents, preferably Abscisic acid containing extract of Leucojum aestivum, wherein the weight data on the content of extract dry matter in the entire composition.

When other preferred ingredients with high antioxidant activity Xanthophylls have proven themselves. Xanthophylls is the group name for hydroxy, epoxy and oxo derivatives of carotenoids. Xanthophylls preferred according to the invention are astaxanthin, Lutein, zeaxanthin, capsanthin, violaxanthin, crocetin, bixin, canthaxanthin, Citranaxanthin, Flavoxanthin, Rhodoxanthin, Rubixanthin and Cryptoxanthin. The naturally occurring xanthophylls are mostly all-trans compounds. Of course, particularly preferred according to the invention are occurring xanthophylls. Particularly preferred xanthophylls are Astaxanthin, Lutein, Zeaxanthin, Capsanthin, Violaxanthin, Crocetin and bixin, most preferably astaxanthin.

According to the invention preferred Compositions contain - based on their weight - at least a xanthophyll in a total amount of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.005-1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 Wt .-%, most preferably 0.05-0.2 wt .-%.

Further Contain preferred compositions according to the invention at least one xanthophyll, including preferably astaxanthin, in one Total amount of 0.001-2 wt.%, Preferably 0.005-1 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-%, extraordinarily preferably 0.05-0.2 wt .-%, and 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, still further preferably 0.2 to 0.3 wt .-% dormancy-regulating agents, preferably Abscisic acid containing extract of Leucojum aestivum, wherein the weight data on the content of extract dry matter in the entire composition.

When Another particularly suitable compound, the Composition according to the invention at least one substance from the group of antioxidant extracts from Tinospora crispa, in particular from the trunk, the leaves and / or contain the roots. Extracts from the strain of Tinospora crispa are particularly preferred. The invention suitable Extracts from the plant Tinospora crispa have a high antioxidant Potential, as measured by electron spin resonance spectroscopy (ESR) and with ascorbic acid as a reference.

Further according to the invention preferred compositions - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0002 to 1 wt%, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt%, even more preferably 0.005 to 0.3 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 0.1 wt .-% dry extract mass from the trunk, the leaves and / or the roots, especially prefers the strain, from Tinospora crispa.

Further according to the invention preferred compositions - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0002 to 1 wt%, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt%, even more preferably 0.005 to 0.3 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 0.1 wt .-% dry extract mass from the trunk, the leaves and / or the roots, especially preferably the strain of Tinospora crispa, and 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.02 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, even more preferably 0.2 to 0.3% by weight of dormancy-regulating active substances, preferably abscisic acid containing extract of leucojum aestivum, wherein the weight data on the content of extract dry matter in the entire composition.

Further compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one leucojum aestivum extract containing dormancy-regulating active ingredients and the antioxidant baicalin, also as 5,6-dihydroxy-4-oxygen-2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-7 beta-D-glucopyranosesäu re designated.

baicalin is preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0002 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-%, even further preferably 0.005 to 0.3 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 0.1 wt .-% contain.

Further according to the invention preferred compositions - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0002 to 1 wt%, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt%, even more preferably 0.005 to 0.3% by weight and especially 0.05 to 0.1% by weight of Baicalin and 0.01 to 5 wt%, preferably 0.02 to 1 wt%, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.2 to 0.3 wt .-% dormancy-regulating Active ingredients, preferably abscisic acid containing extract from Leucojum aestivum, whereby the weights are based on the content refer to dry extract substance throughout the composition.

Further compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one leucojum aestivum extract containing dormancy-regulating active ingredients and the antioxidant dihydroquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone, C ₁₅ H ₁₂ O ₇ , molecular weight 304, 3 g / mol), also known under the name taxifolin. Particularly preferred is the isomer (2R, 3R) -dihydroquercetin.

Further according to the invention preferred compositions - based on her weight - Dihydroquercetin in a total from 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.005-1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-%, extraordinarily preferably 0.05-0.2 wt .-%.

Further according to the invention preferred compositions - based on her weight - Dihydroquercetin in a total from 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.005-1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-%, extraordinarily preferably 0.05-0.2 wt .-%, and 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, still further preferably 0.2 to 0.3% by weight of dormancy-regulating, preferably abscisic acid, Extract containing active ingredients from Leucojum aestivum, wherein the weight data on the content of extract dry matter in refer to the entire composition.

ist frei und in Form von Glycosiden und/oder Methylethern im Pflanzenreich weit verbreitet, besonders in Galläpfeln, Blattgallen, auch in den Blättern von Eucalyptus-Arten, in Eichen und Euphorbien.As a further particularly suitable compound having an antioxidant effect, the compositions according to the invention may contain at least one substance from the group of ellagic acid and / or ellagates. Ellagic acid (2,3,7,8-tetrahydroxy [1] benzopyrano [5,4,3-cde] [1] benzopyran-5,10-dione

is free and widespread in the plant kingdom in the form of glycosides and / or methyl ethers, especially in galangals, leaflets, also in the leaves of eucalyptus species, in oaks and euphorbias.

preferred Compositions according to the invention are characterized characterized in that - in terms of their weight - overall 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 0.3% by weight and in particular 0.05 to 0.1% by weight of ellagic acid (2,3,7,8-tetrahydroxy [1] benzopyrano [5,4,3-cde] [1] benzopyran-5,10-dione) and / or ellagates.

Further according to the invention preferred compositions - based on their weight - a total of 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 0.3 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 0.1% by weight of ellagic acid (2,3,7,8-tetrahydroxy [1] benzopyrano [5,4,3-cde] [1] benzopyran-5,10-dione) and / or ellagates and further 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, still further preferably 0.2 to 0.3 wt .-% Dormanzregulierende agents, preferably Abscisic acid containing extract of Leucojum aestivum, wherein the weight data on the content of extract dry matter in the entire composition.

As a further particularly suitable compound with antioxidant effect, the fiction, contain agents containing at least one substance from the group of superoxide dismutases.

preferred Compositions according to the invention are characterized characterized in that at least one superoxide dismutase in one Total amount of 0.0001-1 wt.%, Preferably 0.0001-0.1 % By weight, more preferably 0.001-0.01-0.05% by weight and most preferably 0.003-0.008% by weight, is included.

Further according to the invention preferred compositions - based on their weight - at least one superoxide dismutase in a total amount of 0.0001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.001-0.01-0.05 wt .-% and most preferably 0.002-0.005 wt .-%, and further 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 1 wt .-%, further preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.2 to 0.3 % By weight of dormancy-regulating active substances, preferably abscisic acid, containing extract of Leucojum aestivum, wherein the weights on the content of extract dry matter in the whole composition Respectively.

Other preferred ingredients from the group of drugs that improve collagen or Glycosaminoglucansynthese, epidermis differentiation and / or elastin integrity, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable Metal salts of these substances proven.

The inventively preferred oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances are formed from the following monomers: alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline , Glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine , N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate.

The C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radicals. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radicals and are also preferred substituents.

With the aforementioned C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radicals, the amino acids which carry an OH group may also be esterified to this OH group. A preferred example of this according to the invention is hydroxyproline, which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residues, more preferably dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, which is e.g. B. Sepilift DPHP available from the company Seppic.

The Physiologically acceptable salts of the invention preferred Active substances containing acid groups and forming salts are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, Magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Prefers are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

According to the invention, amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2-30, preferably 2-15, amino acids. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Numerous of these amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit immune system cells, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then, via the release of growth factors, repair processes in the tissue, eg. B. Collagen synthesis, induce, or are able to bind to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus active TGF-β (tissue growth factor), the synthesis of collagen in dermal Fibroblasts induced to release. Such amino acid oligomers can be used as anti-aging agents.

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val- Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-β-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-arghexyldecyl ester (e.g., calmosensins from Sederma, carnosine (β-Ala-His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. According to the invention preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, the z the term "omega-CH activator" from the company GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL from Sederma is available, but (in acylated form) also a component of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma represents. The tripeptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as a copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) and is available as such from ProCyte Corporation. Furthermore, analogues of Gly-His-Lys can be used, wherein a maximum of two amino acids are substituted by suitable other amino acids. For the substitution of Gly, Ala, Leu and Ile are suitable according to the invention. The inventively preferred amino acids that can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom that is predominantly charged at pH 6, eg. Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine. Most preferably, Lys is replaced by Arg, Orn or citrulline. A further preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, which, for. B. available under the name Collasyn 314-GR from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.; Further preferred tripeptides according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys- Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. As sold by the company Pentapharm under the name ^® SYN -COLL, Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (Tripeptide-2), Tripeptide-4 (z. ATPeptides, via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn N -elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ .

Preferred according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides selected from rigin and rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg on. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, e.g. B. under the name Eyeliss is available from Sederma, but also a component of the product Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma. To the Rigin analogues include those where the four amino acids are rearranged and / or where Rigin is at most two amino acids are substituted, for. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids has the sequence a Pro or Arg and more preferably the tetrapeptide both Pro and Arg, with their order and position varying can. The substituting amino acids can selected from each amino acid defined below become. Particularly preferred Rigin-based tetrapetides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa, Xbb and Xcc are the same or different May be amino acids and where Xaa is selected is from Gly and the amino acids that substitute Gly Xbb is selected from Gln and the amino acids, which can substitute gin, Xcc is selected Pro or Arg and the amino acids that substitute Pro and Arg can.

The preferred amino acids that can replace Gly, include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile).

The preferred amino acids that can replace gin, include a side chain with an amino group that is neutral pH (pH 6-7) predominantly uncharged, z. Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.

The preferred amino acids that can replace Arg, include a side chain with a nitrogen atom which is at pH 6 is present predominantly charged, z. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and isodesmosin. As Rigin analogs according to the invention are Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred.

ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides that contain at least one amino acid aliphatic side chain contain, for. For example, β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (Ile). Also included are ALAMCAT tetrapeptides at least one amino acid having a side chain with one Amino group, which at neutral pH (pH 6-7) predominantly uncharged, z. Gln, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least an amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom, which is predominantly charged at pH 6, z. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid ALAMCAT tetrapeptides can be any amino acid contain; however, the fourth amino acid is also preferred selected from the three aforementioned groups.

Optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides which are preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, which can be obtained under the Matrixyl is available from Sederma, further N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly- Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for desquamation inhibition). According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides are Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, be particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, which is obtainable under the name Biopeptide EL from Sederma, furthermore acetyl-hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), hexapeptide-4 (e.g. Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 614W from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g. Collasyn 614VG from TPI), hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience) and hexapeptides-10 (eg, Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec), Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., modulene from Vincience), acetyl Glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., SNAP-7 from Centerchem), hexapeptide-2 (e.g., melanostatine-DM from Vincience), Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, e.g. Peptides 02 from Vincience), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, Hexapeptide-4 (eg Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (e.g. Collasyn 6W from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 614W from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Collasyn 614VG from TPI), Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine homophenylalanine Trp (e.g. Hexapeptides-7), hexapeptides-8 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptides-8 (e.g., Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptides-9 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience), hexapeptides -10 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec) and hexapeptide-11 (e.g., Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1). Another preferred amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (glistine exsymol). Particularly preferred according to the invention is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as obtainable, for example, in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one amino acid oligomer which can be acylated with a C ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl radical and / or in the form of a salt is present in total amounts of 0.0001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001%. 0.1% by weight, more preferably 0.001-0.01-0.05% by weight, and most preferably 0.002-0.005% by weight.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention comprise at least one amino acid oligomer which may be acylated with a C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical and / or be in the form of a salt, in total amounts of 0.0001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.01-0.05 wt .-% and most preferably 0.002-0.005 wt .-%, and 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 1 wt. -%, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, still more preferably 0.2 to 0.3 wt .-% dormancy-regulating agents containing extract of Leucojum aestivum, wherein the weights are based on the content of extract Get dry substance in the entire composition. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg in a total amount of 0.0001-1 wt .-%, preferably 0, 0003-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0005-0.01 wt .-% and most preferably 0.001-0.005 wt .-%, and at least one dormancy-regulating agents, preferably abscisic acid, containing extract from Leucojum aestivum are included.

The polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from vegetable and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, Kerstin, silk, conchiolin and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolysates, eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Diahin ^® (Diamalt) Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Innlex) and Crotein ^® (Croda). Particularly preferred are soy protein hydrolysates, more preferably soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 daltons, e.g. B. under the trade name Ridulisse C ^{® available} from the company Silab, and soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 Dalton, preferably 800 Dalton, z. B. under the trade name Phytokine ^® from Coletica available with coconut fatty acids N-acylated and / or esterified soy protein hydrolysates in the form of their alkali metal salts. Coconut fatty acids include predominantly alkanecarboxylic acids having a number of carbon atoms of 8-18, especially caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids. Preferred alkali metal salts are selected from lithium, sodium and potassium salts, with the potassium salts being particularly preferred.

One further, particularly preferred according to the invention Soy protein hydrolyzate is one that is N-acylated with coconut fatty acids and / or esterified soy protein hydrolyzate in the form of the potassium salt, under the trade name Coccopolipeptide di Soya of the Company Sinerga is available.

Also preferred according to the invention are keratin hydrolysates, in particular wool keratin hydrolysates. A particularly preferred wool keratin hydrolyzate is available from Croda under the name Keratec Pep. Keratec Pep has a smaller molecular weight fraction having an average molecular weight of 150 daltons and a larger molecular weight fraction having an average molecular weight of 1265 daltons. Also preferred according to the invention are conchiolin hydrolyzates, in particular those which are obtainable under the names Pearl Protein Extract and Pearl Protein Extract BG from the company Maruzen. Conchiolin is a complex protein produced from the outer epithelium of molluscs, in particular pearl shells and various types of snails, and forms the very stable shell of these molluscs by incorporation of calcium carbonate crystals.

protein can of course also monomeric amino acids and oligopeptides; their composition is usually not defined.

Also preference is given to the use of acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products.

One further peptide active ingredient preferred according to the invention, its effect in the presence of dormancy-regulating active substances, preferably abscisic acid, from Leucojum aestivum extract is improved, the peptide derivative is L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (available, for example, under the trade name Glistin exsymol).

In summary, preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances are selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides, which may be N-acylated and / or esterified.

All particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide is selected is from Tyr-Arg and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester, Gly-His-Lys and its N-acylated Derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys, Gly-His-Arg, and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, Lys-Val-Lys and its N-acylated derivatives, especially palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, Val-Tyr-Val, Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (Rigin), Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, especially N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Acetyl-hexapeptide-3, hexapeptide-4, hexapeptide-5, myristoyl hexapeptide-5, myristoyl Hexapeptide-6, hexapeptide-8, hexapeptide-9, hexapeptide-10, L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole, as well as combinations of these substances, in particular combinations of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg.

Preferred compositions according to the invention comprise at least one amino acid polymer which may be acylated with a C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical and / or be in the form of a salt, in total amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 0.1% by weight %, more preferably 0.001-0.01-0.05% by weight, and most preferably 0.002-0.005% by weight.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention contain at least one amino acid polymer which may be acylated with a C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical and / or be in the form of a salt in total amounts of 0.0001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.01-0.05 wt .-% and most preferably 0.002-0.005 wt .-%, and 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 1 wt. -%, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, still more preferably 0.2 to 0.3 wt .-% dormancy-regulating agents, preferably abscis, containing extract of Leucojum aestivum, wherein the weight data on refer to the content of extract dry matter in the entire composition.

• – tierischen und pflanzlichen Proteinhydrolysaten,
• – tierischen und pflanzlichen Proteinen und
• – DNA-Reparaturenzymen.

Also preferred are compositions in which the polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl amino acids and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances are selected from

• - animal and vegetable protein hydrolysates,
• - animal and vegetable proteins and
• - DNA repair enzymes.

Here are very particularly preferred according to the invention Compositions characterized in that they additionally at least one DNA repair enzyme, preferably photolyase and / or T4 endonuclease V and / or 8-oxoguanine glycosylase and / or their Containing mixtures.

The DNA repair enzymes can be encapsulated in liposomes as well as freely, that is, not encapsulated. The liposome encapsulation can preferably be carried out with phospholipids, more preferably with lecithin. Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of at least one liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzyme. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosomes ^TM (INCI name: Aqua, lecithin, plankton extract) liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. B. under the name Ultrasomes ^TM (INCI name: Aqua, lecithin, Micrococcus Lysate) from AGI Dermatics, USA, available. Since equilibration of both the commercial product and the compositions of the present invention between the encapsulated aqueous phase containing the enzyme and the non-encapsulated external aqueous phase results in equilibrium, some of the DNA repair enzymes are unencapsulated. In the compositions according to the invention, the commercial products Photosomes ^™ or Ultrasomes ^{™ are} preferred in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight and most preferably 1.0-4.0% by weight .-%, based on the total agent included.

preferred Compositions according to the invention contain at least a DNA repair enzyme in total amounts of 0.0001-1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.01-0.05 % By weight, and most preferably 0.002-0.005 Wt .-%.

preferred Compositions according to the invention contain at least a DNA repair enzyme in total amounts of 0.0001-1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.01-0.05 % By weight, and most preferably 0.002-0.005 Wt .-%.

Further preferred compositions of the invention are at least one DNA repair enzyme in total from 0.0001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.001-0.01-0.05 wt .-% and most preferably 0.002-0.005% by weight, and 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 1 wt .-%, further preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.2 to 0.3 % By weight of dormancy-regulating active substances, preferably abscisic acid, containing extract of Leucojum aestivum, wherein the weights refer to the content of extract dry matter in the entire composition.

When further preferred ingredients from the group of active ingredients, the collagen or glycosaminoglucan synthesis, epidermic differentiation and / or improve elastin integrity, agents have proven effective, the enzymatic activity or the expression of the Stimulate L-isoform of lysyl oxidase (LOXL).

With the term "LOXL" or "hLOXL" meant the L-isoform of the human protein lysyl oxidase LOXL. With the term "LOX" or "hLOX" the initial isoform ("Pisoform initial" of the human Proteins Lysyl oxidase LOX meant. By "stimulating the Expression of the isoform of lysyl oxidase LOXL "is the stimulation the expression of the gene coding for LOXL or of its promoter is meant, and in particular, the stimulation of the Synthesis of messenger RNA encoding LOXL and also stimulating the synthesis of LOXL, resulting from this messenger RNA results, meaning. By "stimulating expression of elastin the isoform of lysyl oxidase LOXL "is the Stimulate the expression of the gene responsible for the protein elastin or is meant by its promoter, and in particular the stimulation of the synthesis of messenger RNA used for the protein elastin encodes, and also the stimulation of Synthesis of the protein elastin or its precursor, tropoelastin, from this messenger RNA results, meant.

drugs are then considered to be effective if they have an activation or a 1.5-fold increase in expression and / or activity of LOXL in a model that has at least one cell type which comprises an expression and / or activity of LOXL has contact with these agents, in terms of expression level and / or activity level of LOXL in a control model (without contact with the active ingredients).

Advantageously, the expression of LOXL is either the expression of a nucleotide sequence which codes for LOXL, or the expression of an amino acid sequence which represents a partial sequence of the protein LOXL, wherein the amino acid sequence preferably consists of SEQ ID NO DE 10 2004 028 302 B4 is selected.

Advantageously, the active substance which stimulates the enzymatic activity or the expression of the L-isoform of the lysyl oxidase (LOXL), selected from the group of extracts from the group consisting of dill (Peucedanum Graveolens), in particular from dill seeds, further from currant (Currant), Cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum), Black Radish, Small Holly, Cinnamon, Oats (Avena sativa), Kar potato, silk and / or asea foetida gum.

According to the invention preferred Compositions contain - based on their weight - a total of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.02 to 0.1 wt .-% at least an active substance that has the enzymatic activity or stimulates the expression of the 1-isoform of lysyl oxidase (LOXL).

Further according to the invention preferred compositions - based on their weight - a total of 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 0.1 wt .-% of at least one active substance, the enzymatic Activity or expression of the 1-isoform of lysyl oxidase (LOXL) and that is selected from the group extracts from the group consisting of dill (Peucedanum graveolens), in particular of dill-seeds, still of currant (currant), Cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum), black radish, small holly, Cinnamon, oats (Avena sativa), potato, silk and / or asea foetida gum. Further preferred compositions according to the invention contain a total of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 2 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.02 to 0.1% by weight of at least one active substance which contains the enzymatic Activity or expression of L-isoform of lysyl oxidase (LOXL), and 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, even more preferred 0.2 to 0.3% by weight of dormancy-regulating active substances, preferably abscisic acid, containing extract of Leucojum aestivum, wherein the weights on the content of extract dry matter in the whole composition Respectively.

Further preferred compositions of the invention contain a total of 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 1 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 0.1% by weight of at least one active substance which contains the enzymatic Activity or expression of L-isoform of lysyl oxidase (LOXL) and that is selected from the group extracts from the group consisting of dill (Peucedanum graveolens), in particular of dill-seeds, still of currant (currant), Cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum), black radish, small holly, Cinnamon, oats (Avena sativa), potato, silk and / or asea foetida gum, and 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.2 to 0.3 wt .-% dormancy-regulating Active ingredients, preferably abscisic acid containing extract from Leucojum aestivum, whereby the weights are based on the content refer to dry extract substance throughout the composition.

When further preferred ingredients from the group of active ingredients, the collagen or glycosaminoglucan synthesis, epidermic differentiation and / or improve elastin integrity, have hydrophilic extracts from Hibiscus Abelmoschus (= ambrette), especially protein fractions from the seeds of Hibiscus Abelmoschus, proven.

Under the term "hydrophilic extract" is used according to the invention Extract from ambrette seeds understood with a hydrophilic Solvent was extracted, which is selected from water, ethanol, at least one polyvalent alcohol with 2 to 9 carbon atoms and / or at least one water-soluble Polyethylene glycol with 3-20 ethylene oxide units, the which is liquid under normal conditions. Preferred multivalent Alcohols with 2 to 9 carbon atoms, under normal conditions are liquid, are selected from ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2-pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,2-hexanediol and 1,6-hexanediol, Hexane triols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 2-ethyl-2-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, Dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol and triglycerol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Preferred water-soluble Polyethylene glycols with 3-20 ethylene oxide units, the under normal conditions are liquid, are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20, and mixtures thereof, wherein PEG-3 until PEG-8 are particularly preferred.

Especially preferred hydrophilic solvents are selected water, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,4-Butylene glycol, ethanol, and mixtures thereof. extraordinarily preferred hydrophilic solvents are selected from water and mixtures of water and 1,3-butylene glycol.

According to the invention preferred hydrophilic extracts of ambrette seeds are made from pressed and / or ground and / or de-oiled ambrette seeds.

The hydrophilic extracts of ambrette seeds according to the invention contained, in each case based on the dry matter, 1-100 Wt .-%, preferably 2-80 wt .-%, particularly preferably 5-60 % By weight, and most preferably 10-50% by weight Peptides with 2-10 amino acid units and / or Proteins. The hydrophilic extracts according to the invention Ambrette seeds protect the fibroblast growth factor (FGF-2 or basic FGF or FGF-β) before degradation, for example by proteolysis. Numerous growth factors are for responsible for the physiological processes in the skin, in particular the FGF-2, which has a broad spectrum of activity. For example, FGF-2 controls the proliferation of fibroblasts, which in turn causes the synthesis of extracellular macromolecules Matrix (ECM), such as proteoglycans, glycosaminoglycans, such as chondroitin sulfates, Keratan sulfate and hyaluronic acid, furthermore collagens, elastin, Fibrillin and laminin, which is made possible for the integrity of the skin are essential. Heparan sulfate-containing Proteoglycans of ECM bind FGF-2 and thus regulate its availability or protect the growth factor from degradation by proteolysis.

FGF-2 is present in several isoforms. In vertebrates are five Isoforms with molecular weights of 18; 22; 22.5; 24 and 34 kDa known. Only the 18 kDa form occurs outside the Cells on, the others are inside the cell, more precisely in the nucleus, locked in. Although FGF-2 is abundant in the organism, that it can be purified and characterized is its messenger RNA not detectable. This fact and the peculiarity that it is intimate is distributed to the basal membrane of tissue bound leaves suspect that it produces at an initial rate and then at Development by the cells is released to the ECM to be stored. This storage allows a release if necessary of FGF-2 in the adult state to participate in tissue repair and maintain differentiated functions. With age the supply of FGF-2 decreases, which is maximum activity not guaranteed. To the loss of skin cells to FGF-2 to prevent by proteolysis, contain the inventive Therefore, compositions of at least one hydrophilic extract Ambrette seeds.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds in a total amount of 0.0001-0.5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.001-0.1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.005-0.05% by weight and most preferred 0.01-0.04 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.

Further preferred compositions of the invention contain at least one hydrophilic extract of Ambrette seeds in a total amount of 0.0001-0.5% by weight, preferably 0.001-0.1% by weight, more preferably 0.005-0.05% by weight and extraordinarily preferably 0.01-0.04 wt .-%, and 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, still further preferably 0.2 to 0.3 wt .-% dormancy-regulating agents, preferably Abscisic acid containing extract of Leucojum aestivum, wherein the weight data on the content of extract dry matter in the entire composition.

When further preferred ingredients from the group of active ingredients, the collagen or glycosaminoglucan synthesis, epidermic differentiation and / or to improve elastin integrity, hyaluronic acid (hyaluronan) has improved proven. Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan, in the connective tissue, in the vitreous body, in the umbilical cord and occurs in the synovial fluid of the joints.

hyaluronic acid is a high molecular weight compound with molecular weights between 50,000 and several million daltons. Basic building block of hyaluronic acid is one of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine in β- (1,3) -glycosidic Bond built Aminodisaccharid, with the next Unit β- (1,4) -glycosidically linked.

The unbranched chain of hyaluronic acid consists of 2000-10000 such units. Hyaluronic acid chains are helically arranged in solution. Hyaluronic acid is used in cosmetic compositions preferably in salt form, in particular as sodium hyaluronate, and in the form of the silanol derivatives. OF INVENTION According to the invention, preferred compositions contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight and in particular from 0.02 to 0, 05 wt .-% hyaluronic acid and 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, even more preferably 0.2 to 0 , 3 wt .-% dormancy-regulating agents, preferably abscis, containing extract of Leucojum aestivum, wherein the weights are based on the content of extract dry matter in the entire composition.

When further preferred ingredients from the group of active ingredients, the collagen or glycosaminoglucan synthesis, epidermic differentiation and / or to improve elastin integrity, too Extracts from apple kernels proven.

One Particularly preferred apple seed extract according to the invention is the commercial product Ederline of the manufacturer Seporga. Ederline contains isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. In vitro tests with cultured Skin cells show effects on the synthesis according to the manufacturer collagen type I and type III collagen, as well as fibronectin. Of Further, in subject studies, a positive effect of Ederline measured on the skin relief. In addition, make the manufacturer's information antioxidant and antiinflammatory effects. The product Ederline is once in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), on the other in fat-soluble Form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract) available.

According to the invention suitable Amounts of edderline are 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 3-5 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition. Based on the content of active Active ingredients, apple seed extracts according to the invention in Amounts of 0.001-2 wt .-%, preferably 0.01-1.6 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.03-1 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, used.

When further preferred ingredients from the group of active ingredients, the collagen or glycosaminoglucan synthesis, epidermic differentiation and / or to improve elastin integrity, too Isoflavonoids proven. Isoflavonoids are among the flavonoids counting, sometimes referred to as Isoflavone Group of mostly yellowish plant dyes, which are derived from isoflavone. The basic body isoflavone (3-phenylchromone, 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one) comes in clover types in front. Some more well known isoflavones are daidzein (4 ', 7-dihydroxy-isoflavone), Genistein (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-isoflavone); Prunetin (4 ', 5-dihydroxy-7-methoxy-isoflavone); Biochanin A (5,7-dihydroxy-4'-methoxyisoflavone); Orobol (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxy isoflavone); Santal (3 ', 4', 5-trihydroxy-7-methoxy-isoflavone). According to the invention preferred Compositions contain - based on their weight - at least an isoflavonoid in a total amount of 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% and in particular 0.02 to 0.05 wt .-%, and 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, even more preferred 0.2 to 0.3% by weight of dormancy-regulating active substances, preferably abscisic acid, containing extract of Leucojum aestivum, wherein the weights on the content of extract dry matter in the whole composition Respectively.

As further preferred ingredients from the group of drugs that improve the collagen or Glycosaminoglucansynthese, epidermis differentiation and / or elastin integrity, also phytosterols have been proven. Phytosterols (phytosterols) are sterols from plants and yeasts (mycosterols). They differ from sterols of animal origin by a double bond at C-22 and C ₁ or C ₂ substituents at C-24. Vegetable sterols preferred according to the invention are stigmasterol, β-sitosterol and campesterol.

According to the invention preferred Compositions contain - based on their weight - at least a phytosterol in a total amount of 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% and in particular 0.02 to 0.05 wt .-%, and 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, even more preferred 0.2 to 0.3% by weight of dormancy-regulating active substances, preferably abscisic acid, containing extract of Leucojum aestivum, wherein the weights refer to the content of extract dry matter in the entire composition.

As further preferred ingredients from the group of drugs that improve the collagen or Glycosaminoglucansynthese, epidermis differentiation and / or elastin integrity, triterpenoids have also been proven. Triterpenoids are natural products composed of 6 isoprene units with 30 carbon Ato men belonging to the group of terpenes. At present, about 5000 triterpenes are known. The simplest triterpene is acyclic squalene, which is also the parent of all other triterpenes. Monocyclic, bicyclic and tricyclic triterpenes are very rare. They arise as a result of a disturbed squalene cyclization, such. B. the tricyclic Ambrein. The majority of triterpenes is tetracyclic or pentacyclic.

According to the invention preferred Compositions contain - based on their weight - at least a triterpene in a total amount of 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% and in particular 0.02 to 0.05 wt .-%, and 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, even more preferred 0.2 to 0.3% by weight of dormancy-regulating active substances, preferably abscisic acid, containing extract of Leucojum aestivum, wherein the weights refer to the content of extract dry matter in the entire composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least a vitamin, provitamin, or a vitamin precursor Compound of the vitamin groups A, B, C and E and the esters and / or Salts of the aforementioned substances.

The group of substances called vitamin A include retinol (vitamin A,) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Particularly preferred vitamin A components according to the invention are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol, and also esters thereof, such as retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention, at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin group A or at least one ester thereof in total amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0 , 05-0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

• – Vitamin B₁, Trivialname Thiamin, chemische Bezeichnung 3-[(4'-Amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl)methyl]-5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-4-methylthiazoliumchlorid. Bevorzugt wird Thiaminhydrochlorid in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₂, Trivialname Riboflavin, chemische Bezeichnung 7,8-Dimethyl-10-(1-D-ribityl)benzo[g]pteridin-2,4(3H,10H)-dion. Bevorzugt werden Riboflavin oder seine Derivate in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Bevorzugt wird Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung werden an Stelle von sowie zusätzlich zu Pantothensäure oder Panthenol auch Derivate des 2-Furanon mit der allgemeinen Strukturformel (VIT-I) eingesetzt.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ , trivial name thiamin, chemical name 3 - [(4'-amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl) methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₂ , trivial name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3H, 10H) -dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Preferred derivatives of panthenol according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (VIT-I) are used instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol.

(VIT-I)

(VIT-I)

• – Vitamin B₆, wobei man hierunter keine einheitliche Substanz, sondern die unter den Trivialnamen Pyridoxin, Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal bekannten Derivate des 5-Hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols versteht. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Vitamin B₆-Komponente in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Vitamin B₇ (Biotin), auch als Vitamin H oder ”Hautvitamin” bezeichnet. Bei Biotin handelt es sich um (3aS,4S, 6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Biotin und den Biotinestern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Folsäure (Vitamin B_g, Vitamin B_c). Internationaler Freiname für N-[4-(2-Amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino)-benzoyl]-L-glutaminsäure (N-Pteroyl-L-glutaminsäure, PteGlu). Folgt wird synonym zu Pteroylglutamat gebraucht, Folate ist der Sammelbegriff für alle Folsäure-wirksamen Verbindungen und bezeichnet eine Substanzklasse, die einen mit 4-Aminobenzoesäure und L-Glutaminsäure verbundenen Pteridin-Ring enthält. Folsäure ist ein Wachstumsfaktor für verschiedene Mikroorganismen und eine Verbindung mit Vitamincharakter, die in der Natur meist als Polyglutamat und in reduzierter Form (7,8-Dihydrofolsäure, H₂Folat, DHF; Tetrahydrofolsäure, H₄Folat, THF; 5'-Methyl-Tetrahydrofolsäure, CH₃-H₄Folat, MeTHF) vorkommt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Folsäure, Folaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01 bis 0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.
• – Orotsäure (Vitamin B₁₃, 1,2,3,6-Tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidin-carbonsäure, Uracil-6-carbonsäure, Molkensäure). Orotsäure, ihr Cholinester oder Orotsäure-Metallsalze (Orotate von Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) sind erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Orotsäure, Orotaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001–1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01–0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.

Particularly preferred are the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ^{6 are} independently a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono , Di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 dimethyl-2-hy droxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), all stereoisomers being expressly included. The extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative according to the invention is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), where in formula (I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 represent} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and of the 2-furanone derivatives in a total amount of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight. , Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

• - Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin B ₆ component in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from biotin and the biotin esters in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Folic acid (vitamin B _g , vitamin B _c ). International generic name for N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid (N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu). Following is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate, folate is the collective term for all folic acid-active compounds and refers to a class of substances containing a 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic acid associated pteridine ring. Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a compound of vitamin character, which is usually found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H ₂ folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H ₄ folate, THF, 5'-methyl). Tetrahydrofolic acid, CH ₃ -H ₄ folate, MeTHF). Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.
• - Orotic acid (vitamin B ₁₃ , 1,2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid). Orotic acid, its choline ester or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one substance which is selected from the vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of the group B ₁ , B ₂ , B ₃ , B ₆ , B ₇ , B ₉ , B ₁₃ and their esters and pantolactone.

preferred Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of group C and their Esters are vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, Chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl glucoside. The combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one of said compounds of the vitamin C type in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 2 wt .-%, in each case on the entire composition, included. To the vitamin E group include tocopherol, especially α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, Tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Particularly preferred according to the invention Compositions are characterized in that they are at least a substance selected from tocopherol and its derivatives, in a total amount of 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 0.3 wt .-% and in particular From 0.05 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on the total composition, contain.

Vitamin A palmitate (retinyl palmitate), pantolactone, nicotinamide, pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate and the tocopherol esters, especially tocopheryl acetate, are particularly suitable according to the invention vorzugt.

In summary, compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.25 to 3.5% by weight preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors contain, which are preferably assigned to the groups A, B, C and E, Panthenol ((±) -2,4-dihydroxy-N- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide, provitamin B5) and / or pantothenic acid (vitamin B ₃ , vitamin B ₅ ) and / or panthenol being preferred Niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B ₃ ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine (vitamin B ₁ ) and / or riboflavin (vitamin B ₂ , vitamin G) and / or biotin (vitamin B ₇ , Vitamin H) and / or folic acid (vitamin B ₉ , vitamin B _c or vitamin M) and / or vitamin B ₆ and / or vitamin B ₁₂ .

preferred optional ingredients of the invention Cosmetic products may have their function To be defined. Of course, some ingredients can also be multifunctional.

preferred Ingredients of the agents according to the invention, preferably Cosmetic products can be:

a) absorbents

These preferably have the task of water and / or oil-soluble to absorb dissolved or finely divided substances.

b) antimicrobials

These can be added to the products to generally reduce the activities of microorganisms, especially the microorganisms responsible for the formation of acne. These germs include, among others, various species from the group of staphylococci, the group of Corynebacteria, anaerococci and micrococci, in particular Corynebacterium acnes, Corynebacterium granulosum, Propionibacterium acnes, Propionibacterium avidum and Propionibacterium granulosum. Preferred antimicrobial or antimicrobial agents according to the invention are in particular organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a number of plant extracts and zinc compounds. These include triclosan, chlorhexidine and chlorhexidine gluconate, 3,4 ', - trichlorocarbanilide, bromochlorophene, dichlorophen, chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, hexachlorophene, dichloro-m-xylenol, dequalinium chloride, domiphenbromide, ammonium phenolsulfonate, benzalkonium halides, benzalkonium cetyl phosphate, benzalkonium saccharinates, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, laurylpyridinium chloride , Laurylisoquinolinium bromide, methylbenzedonium chloride. Furthermore, phenol, phenoxyethanol, disodium dihydroxyethylsulfosuccinylundecylenate, sodium bicarbonate, zinc lactate, sodium phenolsulfonate and zinc phenolsulfonate, ketoglutaric acid, terpene alcohols such as. As farnesol, chlorophyllin copper complexes, α-monoalkyl glycerol ether with a branched or linear saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl, particularly preferably α- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ether, commercially available as Sensiva ^® SC 50 (ex Schälke & Mayr), carboxylic acid esters of mono-, di- and triglycerol (eg glycerol monolaurate, diglycerol monocaprinate), lantibiotics and plant extracts (eg green tea and components of lime blossom oil). Further preferred active substances against acne and impure skin are selected from so-called prebiotically active components, which according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those components which inhibit only or at least predominantly the odor-causing germs of the skin microflora, but not the desired ones, that is, the non-odor-forming germs. that belong to a healthy skin microflora. Explicitly here are the active substances, which are in the publications DE 10333245 and DE 10 2004 011 968 are disclosed as being prebiotic effective; these include conifer extracts, in particular from the group of Pinaceae, and plant extracts from the group of Sapindaceae, Araliaceae, Lamiaceae and Saxifragaceae, in particular extracts from Picea spp., Paullinia sp., Panax sp., Lamium album or Ribes nigrum and mixtures of these substances.

c) binders

she ensure z. B. the cohesion powdered and powdered cosmetic products.

d) bleach

These can z. B. serve to lighten the hue of the skin.

e) chelating agent

These be z. As cosmetic agents added to them complexes form with metal ions, for example, the storage stability to improve the compositions of the invention. When complex-forming substance is particularly preferred ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their sodium salts, as for example under the trade name Trilon B, available from BASF, continues to be nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their sodium salts, β-alaninediacetic acid and their salts and phosphonic acids and their salts. The At least one complex-forming substance is preferably in one Total amount of 0.01-0.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.08-0.2 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the inventive Composition, included.

f) emollients

These The task is to soften and smooth the skin.

Preferred compositions according to the invention, which are present as an emulsion, suspension, spray or stick, comprise as emollient at least one oil which is liquid at 20 ° C. and which does not constitute a fragrance component and does not represent an essential oil. Oils preferred according to the invention are selected from branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, as they are obtainable by the Guerbet reaction. Preferred alcohol oils are Hexyldecanol (Eutanol ^® G 16, Guerbitol ^® T 16) Octyldodecanol (Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 20), 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and the commercial products Guerbitol ^® 18, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^{®, ®} Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24. Further preferred oil components are mixtures of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, z. , The commercial product Cetiol ^® PGL (hexyldecanol and hexyldecyl laurate. Further according to the invention, preferred emollient oils are selected from the triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C _8-30 fatty acids. Particularly suitable is the use of natural oils, e.g. For example, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil, and the liquid portions of coconut oil, etc. Synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable Capric / caprylic triglycerides, for example., the commercial products Myritol ^® 318, Myritol ^® 331 (Cognis) or Miglyol ^® 812 (Hüls) using unbranched fatty acid residues as well as glyceryl and the commercial products Estol ^® GTEH 3609 (Uniqema) or Myritol ^® GTEH (Cognis) with branched fatty acid residues te oils are selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ -alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, Diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di- (2-hexyldecyl) succinate. Further oils which are particularly preferred _{according to the} invention are selected from the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric C _8-22 -alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. B. PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol APM ^®). Further oil components preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated. These include, hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanol ^® G 16 S), hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® C 24) and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol ^® 868). Also conditionally suitable are isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl, Isononylstearat, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl, cetearyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl, butyloctanoic-2-butyl octanoate, Diisotridecylacetat, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and dipalmitate. Further oil components preferred according to the invention are selected from the adducts of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units with monohydric or polyhydric C _3-22 alkanols, such as butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. As PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid ^® AP), PPG-9-butyl ether (Breox ^® 625), PPG-10 butanediol (Macol ^® 57) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol ^® E). Further preferred oil components according to the invention are selected from the C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C ₂ -C ₇ hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid. Such esters based on linear C _14/15 alkanols, eg. B. C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl lactate, and of branched in the 2-position C _12/13 alkanols are under the trademark Cosmacol ^® by Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, to obtain, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol ^® ESI, Cosmacol ^® EMI and Cosmacol ^® ETI. Further inventively preferred oil components are selected from the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. As glycerol carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC) or the esters of DE 197 56 454 A1 , Further invention Preferred oil components are selected from the esters of dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C ₂ -C ₆ -alkanols. It may be extraordinarily preferred according to the invention to use mixtures of the abovementioned oils. Further oil components preferred according to the invention are selected from silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils. Silicone oils preferred according to the invention are selected from dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, such as, for example, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane. Further inventively preferred silicone oils are selected from volatile silicone oils which may be cyclic, such as. For example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof, as described for. B. in the commercial products DC 244, 245, 344 and 345 of Dow Corning, or linear, z. As hexamethyldisiloxane (L ₂ ), octamethyltrisiloxane (L ₃ ), decamethyltetrasiloxane (14), any two and three mixtures of 12, 13 and / or 14, as described, for. B. in the commercial products DC 2-1184, Dow Corning ^® 200 (0, 65 cSt), and Dow Corning ^® 200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning are included. Further inventively preferred silicone oils are selected from non-volatile higher molecular weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes, commercially available z. Example under the name Dow Corning ^® 190, Dow Corning ^® 200 fluid having viscosities in the range of 5-100 cSt, preferably 5-50 cSt, or even 5-10 cSt, and Baysilon ^® 350 M. According to the invention preferred natural and synthetic hydrocarbons are selected from paraffinic oils, isohexadecane, isoeicosane, (optionally hydrogenated) polyisobutenes and polydecenes, which are obtainable for example under the designation Emery ^® 3004, 3006, 3010 or under the name ^® from Albemarle Ethylflo or Nexbase ^® 2004G from Nestle, and 1.3 di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S). Particularly preferred skin treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that the oil (s) liquid at 20 ° C. in a total amount of 0.1-80% by weight, preferably 2-20% by weight, particularly preferably 3-15 Wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition, is / are included. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, a proportion of the oil components of at least 80% by weight has a refractive index n _D of 1.39-1.51. It is particularly preferred if 5-40-50 wt .-%, most preferably 10-12-25-30 wt .-% of the oil components has a refractive index n _D of 1.43-1.51, preferably 1.44-1 , 49, more preferably 1.45-1.47-1.485, at 20 ° C (measured at λ = 589 nm). In addition to the oils, that is, the substances which are liquid under normal conditions, solid lipid or wax components can be used as an emollient even under normal conditions. Particularly preferred lipid or wax components are selected from coconut fatty acid glycerol mono-, di- and triesters, Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) and esters of saturated, monohydric C ₈ -C ₁₈ alcohols with saturated C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ monocarboxylic acids and mixtures thereof Substances contained. These lower melting lipid or wax components allow for consistency optimization of the product and a minimization of the visible residue on the skin. Especially preferred are products sold under the INCI name Cocoglycerides, in particular the commercial products Novata ^® (ex Cognis), particularly preferably Novata AB ^®, a mixture of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ mono-, di- and triglycerides, which in the range of 30- 32 ° C, as well as the products of the Softisan series (Sasol Germany GmbH) with the INCI name Hydrogenated Cocoglycerides, in particular Softisan 100, 133, 134, 138, 142. Further preferred esters of saturated, monohydric C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ - alcohols with saturated C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ monocarboxylic acids are stearyl laurate, cetearyl (z. B. Crodamol ^® CSS), cetyl palmitate (z. B. Cutina ^® CP) and myristyl myristate (z. B. Cetiol ^® MM). Emollients preferred according to the invention are furthermore natural vegetable waxes, eg. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, sugarcane wax, ouricoury wax, cork wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as orange waxes, lemon waxes, grapefruit wax, and animal waxes, e.g. Beeswax, shellac wax and spermaceti. For the purposes of the invention, it may be particularly preferred to use hydrogenated or hardened waxes. As a wax component and chemically modified waxes, especially the hard waxes, such as. As montan ester waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and Sasol waxes used. Among the synthetic waxes, which are also preferred according to the invention include z. B. polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes, C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ dialkyl esters of dimer acids, C _30-50 alkyl beeswax and alkyl and alkylaryl esters of dimer fatty acids. A particularly preferred wax component is selected from at least one ester of a saturated, monohydric C ₁₆ -C ₆₀ -alcohol and a saturated C ₈ -C ₃₆ -monocarboxylic acid. According to the invention, lactides, the cyclic double esters of α-hydroxycarboxylic acids of the corresponding chain length, also belong thereto. Esters of fatty acids and long-chain alcohols have proved to be particularly advantageous for the composition according to the invention, because they give the skin treatment compositions of the invention excellent sensory properties and (for pens) high stability. The esters are composed of saturated branched or unbranched monocarboxylic acids and saturated branched or unbranched monohydric alcohols. Esters of aromatic carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids (eg 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated branched or unbranched alcohols can also be used according to the invention. It is particularly preferred to choose the wax components from the group of esters of saturated branched or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 12 to 24 carbon atoms and the saturated branched or unbranched branched alcohols of a chain length of 16 to 50 carbon atoms, which have a melting point> 50 ° C. In particular, C _{16-36 alkyl} stearates and C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates, C _20-40 alkyl erucates and cetearyl behenate may be advantageous as the wax component. The wax or the wax components have a melting point> 50 ° C, preferably> 60 ° C, on. A particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contains as wax component a C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearate. This ester is known under the name Kester ^® K82H or Kesterwachs ^® K80H and is sold by Koster Keunen Inc.. It is the synthetic imitation of the monoester fraction of beeswax and is characterized by its hardness, oil gelability and broad compatibility with lipid components. This wax can be used as a stabilizer and consistency regulator for W / O and O / W emulsions. Kester wax has the advantage that it has an excellent oil gelability even at low concentrations and so does not make the pencil mass too heavy and allows a velvety abrasion. A further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contains as wax component cetearyl behenate, ie mixtures of cetyl behenate and stearyl behenate. This ester is known under the name Kester ^® K62 and is sold by Koster Keunen Inc.. Further preferred lipid or wax components with a melting point> 50 ° C are the triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C _12-30 fatty acids, such as hardened triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate (tribehenin) or glyceryl tri-12- hydroxystearate, further synthetic Vollester of fatty acids and glycols or polyols containing 2-6 carbon atoms as long as they have a melting point above 50 ° C, for example, preferably C ₁₈ -C ₃₆ Acid Triglyceride (Syncrowax HGL-C ^®). According to the invention hydrogenated castor oil, obtainable, for example, as wax component is available. B. as a commercial product Cutina ^® HR, particularly preferred. Further preferred lipid or wax components with a melting point> 50 ° C are the saturated linear C ₁₄ -C ₃₆ carboxylic acids, in particular myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and behenic acid and mixtures of these compounds, eg. B. Syncrowax ^® AW 1C (C ₁₈ -C ₃₆ fatty acids) or Cutina ^® FS 45 (palmitic and stearic acid).

g) emulsifiers / dispersants

in this connection they are surface-active substances, preferably are capable of immiscible liquids such as oil and water stably distributed into each other or the dispersing a powdery solid in a liquid Improve medium.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as a water-in-oil emulsion, preferably contain at least one water-in-oil emulsifier. The at least one water-in-oil emulsifier is preferably in an amount of 0.5-5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1.0-1.5-2.5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of Emulsion, included. A particularly preferred group of water-in-oil emulsifiers according to the invention are the poly (C ₂ -C ₃ ) alkylene glycol-modified silicones whose previous INCI name was Dimethicone Copolyol, with the current INCI names PEG-x Dimethicone (with x = 2-20, preferably 3-17, more preferably 11-12), bis-PEG-y dimethicones (with y = 3-25, preferably 4-20), PEG / PPG a / b dimethicones (where a and b independently of one another represent numbers of 2-30, preferably 3-30 and particularly preferred 12-20, in particular 14-18,), bis-PEG / PPG-c / d dimethicones (where c and d independently of one another represent numbers of 10) 25, preferably 14-20 and more preferably 14-16) and bis-PEG / PPG-e / f PEG / PPG g / h dimethicones (where e, f, g and h independently of one another represent numbers of 10-20, preferably 14-18 and more preferably 16, stand).

Particularly preferred are PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicones, which is commercially available in a 1: 9 mixture with Cyclomethi cone as DC 3225 C and DC 5225 C, PEG / PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, under the name Abil B 8852 is available as well as Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 dimethicone, which is commercially available in a blend with Cyclomethicone as Abil EM 97 (Goldschmidt), Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, available under the Abil B 8832 is available, PEG / PPG-5/3 trisiloxanes (Silsoft 305), and PEG / PPG-20/23 dimethicones (Silsoft 430 and Silsoft 440). Further preferred W / O emulsifiers according to the invention are poly (C ₂ -C ₃ ) alkylene glycol-modified silicones which are hydrophobically modified with C ₄ -C ₁₈ -alkyl groups, particularly preferably cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicones (previously: Cetyl dimethicone copolyol, available as Abil EM 90 or in a mixture of polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone and hexyl laurate under the trade name Abil WE 09), furthermore alkyl methicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicone ethoxy glucosides. The compositions according to the invention which are formulated as an emulsion, in particular as an oil-in-water emulsion or a polyol-in-water emulsion, preferably comprise at least one nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value of more than 7 These are emulsifiers generally known to the person skilled in the art, as are described, for example, in US Pat Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd ed., 1979, Vol. 8, pp. 913-916 , are listed. For ethoxylated products, the HLB value is calculated according to the formula HLB = (100-L): 5, where L is the proportion by weight of the lipophilic groups, that is the fatty alkyl or fatty acyl groups, in the ethylene oxide adducts, expressed in weight percent, is. In selecting nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers which are suitable according to the invention, it is particularly preferable to use a mixture of nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers in order to optimally adjust the stability of the stick compositions according to the invention. The individual emulsifier components thereby deliver a proportion to the total HLB value or average HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier mixture in accordance with their proportion of the total amount of the oil-in-water emulsifiers. According to the invention, the mean HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier mixture is 10-19, preferably 12-18 and particularly preferably 14-17. In order to achieve such average HLB values, preference is given to combining oil-in-water emulsifiers from the HLB value ranges 10-14, 14-16 and optionally 16-19. Of course, the oil-in-water emulsifier mixtures may also contain nonionic emulsifiers with HLB values in the range of> 7-10 and 19-20; Such emulsifier mixtures may also be preferred according to the invention. However, in another preferred embodiment, the skin treatment agents of the invention may also contain only a single oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB in the range of 10-19. Preferred skin-treating agents according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers are selected from ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkanols with an average of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -carboxylic acids with an average of 10 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, silicone copolyols having ethylene oxide units or with ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs, ethoxylated sterols, partial esters of polyglycerols having 2 to 10 glycerol units and esterified with 1 to 4, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid residues, provided that they have an HLB value of more than 7, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. The ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ alkanols have the formula R ¹ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n H, where R ¹ is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the middle Number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers of 10-100, preferably 10-30 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, Petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. Adducts of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty alcohols having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are suitable. The ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -carboxylic acids have the formula R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n OH, where R ¹ is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide Units per molecule, for numbers of 10-100, preferably 10-30 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, cetylic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid and their technical mixtures. Also adducts of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty acids having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acid, are suitable. Particularly preferred are PEG-50 monostearate, PEG-100 monostearate, PEG-50 monooleate, PEG-100 monooleate, PEG-50 monolaurate and PEG-100 monolaurate. Particular preference is given to using the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -carboxylic acids with in each case 10-30 units of ethylene oxide per molecule and mixtures of these substances, in particular ceteth-12, ceteth-20, ceteth-30, steareth- 12, Steareth-20, Steareth-30, Laureth-12 and Beheneth-20. Furthermore, preference is given to using C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides. C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides are known, commercially available surfactants and emulsifiers. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8-22 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside radical, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar radical is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8, preferably 1-2, are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products. Products which are obtainable under the trademark Plantacare ^®, a glucosidically bonded C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl group containing at an oligoglucoside whose average degree of oligomerization at 1-2, particularly at 1.1-1.4, is located. Particularly preferred C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are selected from octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, palmityl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside and behenyl glucoside and mixtures thereof. The glucamine-derived acylglucamides are also suitable as non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifiers. Ethoxylated sterols, in particular ethoxylated soy sterols, are suitable oil-in-water emulsifiers according to the invention. The degree of ethoxylation must be greater than 5, preferably at least 10, in order to have an HLB value greater than 7. Suitable commercial products are, for. PEG-10 Soy Sterol, PEG-16 Soy Sterol and PEG-25 Soy Sterol. Furthermore, preferably partial esters of polyglycerols with 2 to 10 glycerol units and with 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid esters esterified used, provided that they have an HLB value of more than 7. Particularly preferred are diglycerol monocaprylate, diglycerol monocaprate, diglycerol monolaurate, triglycerol monocaprylate, triglycerol monocaprate, triglycerol monolaurate, tetraglycerol monocaprylate, tetraglycerol monocaprate, Tetraglycerinmonolaurat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprylat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprat, Pentaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprylat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprat, Hexaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonomyristat, Hexaglycerinmonostearat, Decaglycerinmonocaprylat, Decaglycerinmonocaprat, decaglyceryl monolaurate, decaglyceryl monomyristate, Decaglycerinmonoisostearat, decaglycerol monostearate, Decaglycerinmonooleat, Decaglycerinmonohydroxystearat, Decaglycerindicaprylat, Decaglycerindicaprat, Decaglycerindilaurat, Decaglycerindimyristat, Decaglycerindiisostearat, Decaglycerindistearat, Decaglycerindioleat, Decaglycerol dihydroxystearate, decaglycerin tricaprylate, decaglycerin tricaprate, decaglycerol trilaurate, decaglycerin trimyristate, decaglycerol triisostearate, decaglycerol tristearate, decaglycerol trioleate and decaglycerol trihydroxystearate. Particularly preferred skin treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier in a total amount of 0.5-10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-4 wt .-% and exceptionally preferably 1.5-3 wt .-%, based on the total composition. Preferred compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as an emulsion or stick, preferably further comprise at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, selected from the mono- and diesters of Ethylene glycol and the mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of pentaerythritol with linear saturated fatty acids having 12-30, in particular 14-22 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, and mixtures thereof, as consistency regulator and / or water binder. According to the invention, the mono- and diesters are preferred. C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid radicals preferred according to the invention are selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachic acid and behenic acid radicals; particularly preferred is the stearic acid residue. Nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers particularly preferred according to the invention having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 are selected from pentaerythrityl monostearate, pentaerythrityl distearate, pentaerythrityl tristearate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate and mixtures thereof. According to the invention, particularly preferred water-in-oil emulsifiers having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than / equal to 7.0, for example as commercial products Cutina ^® PES (INCI: Pentaerythrityl distearate), Cutina ^® AGS (INCI: Glycol Distearate) or Cutina ^® EGMS (INCI: glycol stearate) available. These commercial products are already mixtures of mono- and diesters (in the pentaerythrityl esters are also tri- and tetraester contained). According to the invention it may be preferable to use only a single water-in-oil emulsifier. In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise mixtures, in particular technical mixtures, of at least two water-in-oil emulsifiers. A commercial product such as Cutina ^® PES is meant, for example, a technical mixture. In addition to the said water-in-oil emulsifiers based on the ethylene glycol or pentaerythritol ester, in a preferred embodiment, at least one further nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7 0, the proportion of which in the total weight of nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 preferably but not greater than 80%. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain the at least one additional water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 only in a proportion by weight of not more than 10% or are free of additional water -in-oil emulsifiers. Some of these additional suitable emulsifiers are, for example, in Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd Ed., 1979, Vol. 8, page 913 , listed. For ethoxylated adducts, the HLB value, as already mentioned, can also be calculated. Suitable water-in-oil emulsifiers are preferably: linear saturated alkanols having 12-30 carbon atoms, in particular 16-22 carbon atoms, in particular cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl and lanolin or mixtures of these alcohols, as in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids are obtainable, esters and in particular partial esters of a polyol having 3-6 C-atoms and linear saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 12-30, in particular 14-22 C-atoms, which may be hydroxylated. Such esters or partial esters are, for. The mono- and diesters of glycerol or the monoesters of propylene glycol with linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, especially those with palmitic and stearic acid, the sorbitan mono-, di- or triesters linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or mixtures of these fatty acids and the methyl glucose mono- and diesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated; Sterols, ie steroids which carry a hydroxyl group at the C3 atom of the steroid skeleton and both from animal tissue (zoosterols, eg cholesterol, lanosterol) as well as from plants (phytosterols, eg ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) and from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols) which may be low ethoxylated (1-5 EO); Alkanols and carboxylic acids each having 8-24 C atoms, in particular having 16-22 C atoms, in the alkyl group and 1-4 ethylene oxide units per molecule having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 exhibit; Glycerol monoethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8-30, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms; Partial ester of polyglycerols with n = 2 to 10 glycerol units and with 1 to 5 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid residues esterified, provided they have a HLB value of less than or equal to 7, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. According to the invention, it may be preferable to use only a single additional water-in-oil emulsifier. In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise mixtures, in particular technical mixtures, of at least two additional water-in-oil emulsifiers. For example, a commercial product such as Cutina GMS ^® is understood to be a technical mixture, which is a mixture of glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl distearate. Particularly advantageous usable zusätzli che water-in-oil emulsifiers are stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate, particularly in the form of the commercial products Cutina ^® GMS and Cutina ^® MD (ex Cognis), glyceryl Glycerylmonocaprinat, glyceryl monocaprylate, glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monopalmitate, Glycerylmonohydroxystearat, glyceryl monooleate, Glycerylmonolanolat, Glyceryldimyristat, Glyceryldipalmitat, glyceryl dioleate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monomyristate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, Sorbitansesquistearat, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sucrose distearate, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), steareth -5, oleth-2, diglycerol monostearate, diglycerol monoisostearate, diglycerol monooleate, diglycerol dihydroxystearate, diglycerol distearate, diglycerol dioleate, triglycerol distearate, tetraglyce rinmonostearate, tetraglycerol distearate, tetraglycerol tristearate, decaglycerol pentastearate, decaglycerin pentahydroxystearate, decaglycerol pentaisostearate, decaglycerol pentaoleate, soy sterol, PEG-1 soy sterol, PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-2 monolaurate and PEG-2 monostearate. Particularly preferred skin-treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that at least one water-in-oil emulsifier is present in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-8.0% by weight, and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight. 4 wt .-%, based on the total composition, are included. Furthermore, amounts of 2-3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, according to the invention may also be extremely preferred.

h) emulsion stabilizers

These can the process of emulsification (see emulsifiers) continue to support and in this way the stability and durability of the product.

i) depilatories and active ingredients with Hair growth inhibiting effect.

These serve the preferably selective removal of body hair or the prevention of regrowth of removed, for example shaved or epilated, hair. Preferred substances which inhibit hair growth are, in particular, selected from eflornithine, active ingredient combinations of soy protein hydrolyzate, urea, menthol, salicylic acid and extracts of hypericum perforatum, hamamelis virginiana, arnica montana and the bark of salix alba, as used for example and preferably in the raw material Pilinhib ^® Veg LS 9109 from Laboratoires Sérobiologiques with the INCI declaration "Propylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hypericum Perforatum Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Urea, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Menthol, Salicylic Acid", continues to contain drug combinations from extracts of Epilobium angustifolium, the seeds of Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin, zucchini) and the fruits of Serenoa serrulata, as for example and preferred in the raw materials ARP 100 from Greentech SA / Rahn with the INCI Declaration "Water, Alcohol, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Cuc urbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract "and ARP 100 Huileux (ex Greentech, INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), are still included Active ingredient combinations of xylitol and extracts of Citrus Medica Limonum (lemon) Fruit, Carica papaya (papaya) and olive leaves, as for example and preferably in the raw material Xyleine of Impag / Seporga with the INCI declaration "Xylitol and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract and Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract and Olea europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract "also contain drug combinations from Humulus Lupulus, Viscum Album, Salvia Officinalis, Carica Papaya and Thuya Occidentalis, as exemplified and preferred in the Plantafluid Complex AH raw material Plantapharm with the INCI Declaration "Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Humulus Lupulus, Viscum Album, Salvia Officinalis, Carica Papaya, Thuy a Occidentalis "are included, as well as extracts of Larrea divaricata, as for example and preferably contained in the raw material Capislow of Sederma, which contains lecithin vesicles with a hydroglycolic extract of Larrea divaricata. Further preferred hair growth inhibiting active substances are selected from substances which inhibit the protein tyrosine kinase, in particular from lavendustin A, erbstatin, tyrphostin, piceatannol, 4-hydroxybenxylidenmalononitrile, 3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzylidenemalononitrile, α- Cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -cinnamonitrile, α-cyano- (3,4,5-trihydroxy) cinnamonitrile, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) cinnamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy ) thiocinnamide, 2-amino-4- (4'-hydroxyphenyl) -1,1,3-tricyanobuta-1,3-diene, 2-amino-4- (3,4,5'-trihydroxyphenyl) -1,1 , 3-tricyanobuta-1,3-diene, 2-amino-4- (1H-alpha-indol-5-yl) -1,1,3-tricyanobuta-1,3-diene, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxy -5- (benzothiazolylthiomethyl) benzylidenecyanoacetamide, 4-amino-N- (2,5-dihydroxybenzyl) methyl benzoate, α-Cya no- (3,4-dihydroxy) -cinnamonitrile, 4- (3-chloroanilino) -6,7-dimethoxyquinazoline, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N-benzylcinnamide, (-) - RN- (a 3-methylbenzyl) -3,4-dihydroxybenzylidenecyanoacetamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N- (3-phenylpropyl) -cinnamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N-phenylcinnamide, α- Cyano - (+) - (S) -N- (alpha-phenethyl) - (3,4-dihydroxy) cinnamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N- (phenylbutyl) cinnamide, herbimycin A, thiazolidinedione , Phenazocine, 2,3-dihydro-2-thioxo-1H-indole-3-alkanoic acids, 2,2'-dithiobis (1H-indole-3-alkanoic acids), sulfonylbenzoylnitrostyrene, methylcaffeate, HNMPA (AM) ₃ (hydroxy) 2-naphthalenylmethylphosphonic acid tris-acetoxymethyl ester) and N-acetyl-Asp-Tyr- (2-malonyl) -Val-Pro-Met-Leu-NH ₂ . Further preferred hair growth inhibiting agents are selected from those in WO 2006/130330 A2 disclosed substances, namely agonists of the farnesoid X receptor, preferably selected from bile acids, in particular lithocholic acid, cholic acid, deoxycholic acid, chenodeoxycholic acid, ursodeoxycholic acid and 6-alpha-ethylchenodeoxycholic acid, furthermore from farnesoids, in particular farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2 , 6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol), farnesal, farnesyl acetate, 3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatriene-1-carboxylic acid, methyl farnesyl ether, methyl farnesoate, ethyl farnesyl ether, ethyl farnesoate, furthermore from 7-methyl- Methyl 9- (3,3-dimethyloxivanyl) -3-methyl-2,6-nonadienoate (juvenile hormone III), 7-methyl-9- (3,3-dimethyloxivanyl) -3-methyl-2,6-nonadienoic acid, 3 alpha, 7-alpha-dihydroxy-6-alpha-ethyl-5p-cholan-24-acid, 7-alpha-dihydroxy-6-alpha-propyl-5p-cholan-24-acid, 7-alpha-dihydroxy-6- alpha-allyl-5p-cholan-24-acid, N- (2,2,2-trifluoroethyl) -N- [4- [2,2,2-trifluoro-1-hydroxy-1- (trifluoromethyl) -ethyl] phenyl] -benzenesulfonanilide, 3- [2- [2-chloro-4- [3- (2,6-dichlorophenyl) -5- (1-methylethyl) -4-isoxazolyl] methoxy] -phenylethenyl] benzoic acid, [3,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl) -4-hydroxyphenyl] ethenylidene] bisphosphonic acid tetraethyl ester, [2- [3,5 bis (1,1-dimethylethyl) -4-hydroxyphenyl] ethylidene] bisphosphonic acid tetrakis (1-methylethyl) ester, [2- [3,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl) -4-hydroxyphenyl] ethylidene] bisphosphonic acid tetraethyl ester and [ 3,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl-4-hydroxyphenyl] ethenylidene ester] bisphosphonsäuretetrakis (1-methylethyl).

preferred Compositions according to the invention contain at least a hair growth inhibiting substance in a total amount of 0.0001-5 wt%, preferably 0.001-2 wt%, especially preferably 0.01-1 wt%, and most preferably 0.1-0.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of active substance hair growth inhibiting agent (s) and total weight the composition of the invention.

j) moisturizer

These can contribute to the maintenance or restoration of skin moisture and counteract the drying of the skin. In addition to the emollients mentioned above, water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanols with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or water-soluble polyethylene glycols with 3-20 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof are suitable for this purpose. Preferably, these components are selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2- Pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and Mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being preferred. Also sugars and certain sugar derivatives such as fucose, rhamnose, fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose and xylose are suitable according to the invention. Preferred skin-treating agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol with 3-20 ethylene oxide units is selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2- Methyl 1,3-propanediol, glycerin, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2-pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,6-butanediol Hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Particularly preferred skin treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol with 3-20 ethylene oxide units in total in amounts of 3-30% by weight. %, preferably 8-25 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10-18 wt .-%, each based on the total composition is included.

k) film former

These are capable of producing a protective, stabilizing film on surfaces, preferably skin, hair or nails. With regard to the agents according to the invention, this film preferably has a moisture-storing effect. Preferred moisture-retaining film formers are selected from poly saccharides, containing at least one deoxy-block, particularly preferably from the commercial products Fucogel ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-1) from Solabia, Rhamnosoft ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2) from Solabia, Fucogenol ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-3) (from Solabia and Glycofilm ^® INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4) from Solabia, further mixtures of the above, at least containing a deoxy-block polysaccharides, for example the mixture of Biosaccharide Gum-2 and Biosaccharide Gum-3, available as Commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia, glycosaminoglycans, more preferably hyaluronic acid, dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin 6-sulfate.

I) dyes

These are added to cosmetic products to product staining to create.

m) preservatives

These are added to cosmetic products to protect them from the damaged Influence of microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, yeasts) to preserve and thus to avoid their spoiling. Numerous preservatives inevitably have deodorizing properties as well they also have an antimicrobial effect against odor-causing bacteria, so that some substances belong to both groups. For Cosmetics are preferably suitable as preservatives, for example Benzoic acid and its derivatives (eg propyl, phenyl and butyl benzoate, ammonium, sodium, potassium and magnesium benzoate), Propionic acid and its derivatives (eg ammonium, sodium, Potassium, and magnesium propionate), salicylic acid and their Derivatives (eg sodium, potassium and magnesium salicylate), 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and their esters and alkali metal salts (eg methyl, ethyl, propyl, Isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, isodecyl, phenyl, phenoxyethyl and benzylparaben, hexamidineparaben and -diparaben, sodium and Potassium paraben, sodium and potassium methyl paraben, potassium butyl paraben, Sodium and potassium propylparaben), alcohols and their salts (e.g. Ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, Phenol, potassium phenolate, phenoxyethanol, phenoxyisopropanol, o-phenylphenol), Guaiacol and its derivatives, chlorhexidine and its derivatives (e.g. Chlorhexidine diacetate, digluconate, and dihydrochloride), hydantoin and its derivatives (eg DEDM and DMDM hydantoin, DEDM-hydantoindilaurate), Urea and urea derivatives (eg diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea), ferulic acid and their derivatives (eg ethyl ferulate), sorbic acid and their derivatives (eg isopropyl sorbate, TEA sorbate, sodium, potassium, and magnesium sorbate), isothiazole and oxazole derivatives (e.g., methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, dimethyloxazolidine), quaternary Ammonium compounds (eg Polyquaternium-42, Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quaternium-15), carbamates (eg, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate), formaldehyde and sodium formate, glutaraldehyde, glyoxal, hexamidine, dehydroacetic acid, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, isopropylcresol, methyldibromo-glutaronitrile, Polyaminopropyl biguanide, sodium hydroxymethyl glycinate, sodium phenolsulfonate, Triclocarban, triclosan, zinc pyrithione and various peptide antibiotics (eg Nisin). Preservatives preferred according to the invention are phenoxyethanol, the esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and isobutylparaben as well as iodopropynyl butyl carbamate. The amount of preservatives in the preferred compositions of the invention 0.001-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01-5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1-3 wt .-%, based on the total weight the composition.

n) corrosion inhibitor

These can z. B. serve the corrosion of the packaging z. B. to prevent a cosmetic agent or even the Corrosion of parts that otherwise come into contact with the agent.

o) Skin cooling agents

Compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention furthermore preferably contain at least one skin-cooling active substance. Skin-cooling active ingredients suitable according to the invention are, for example, menthol, isopulegol and menthol derivatives, eg. Menthyl lactate, menthyl glycolate, menthyl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, menthyl methyl ether, menthoxypropanediol, menthone glycerol acetal (9-methyl-6- (1-methylethyl) -1,4-dioxaspiro (4.5) decane-2-methanol), monomethyl succinate and 2-hydroxymethyl-3,5 , 5-trimethylcyclohexanol. Preferred skin-cooling active ingredients are menthol, isopulegol, menthyl lactate, menthoxypropanediol and menthylpyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, and mixtures of these substances, in particular mixtures of menthol and menthyl lactate, menthol, menthol glycolate and menthyl lactate, menthol and menthoxypropanediol or menthol and isopulegol. It is particularly preferred according to the invention for at least one skin-cooling active ingredient to be present in a total amount of 0.01-1% by weight, more preferably 0.02-0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.05-0.2 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.

p) pH regulator / buffer substances

These can z. B. in cosmetics serve to a desired Adjust or stabilize the pH.

q) surfactants / wash-active substances

This are surface-active compounds, the cleaning purposes or the better washability of the invention To serve means.

r) propellants

This are gaseous substances with which the inventive cosmetic products under pressure in pressure-resistant containers can be put to the contents then at pressure relief produce. Particularly preferred according to the invention Compositions formulated as a propellant-driven aerosol are containing at least one propellant. Preferred blowing agents (Propellant gases) are propane, propene, n-butane, isobutane, isobutene, n-pentane, pentene, iso-pentane, iso-pentene, methane, ethane, dimethyl ether, Nitrogen, air, oxygen, nitrous oxide, 1,1,1,3-tetrafluoroethane, Heptafluoro-n-propane, perfluoroethane, monochlorodifluoromethane, 1,1-difluoroethane, both individually and in combination. Also hydrophilic Propellants, such. As carbon dioxide, can be advantageous in Be used in the sense of the present invention, when the proportion of hydrophilic gases is chosen low and lipophilic propellant gas (eg propane / butane) in excess. Especially Propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures of these are preferred Propellants. It has been shown that the use of n-butane as unique propellant gas according to the invention particularly preferred can be. The amount of the blowing agent is preferred 20-80% by weight, more preferably 30-70% by weight and most preferably 40-50% by weight, respectively based on the total weight of the preparation consisting of the composition according to the invention and the propellant

s) opacifiers

These one can preferably transparent or translucent products add to it more impenetrable for visible light or near-light radiation. This can help protect the photocatalytic Active ingredient during storage in transparent or translucent May be advantageous to containers; the layer thickness, which is later applied to the skin is like that low, that the addition of a clouding agent the effectiveness of the photocatalytic agent is not affected.

t) UV absorbers / light filter substances

she are able to filter certain UV rays and can in this way, for. As the skin from premature, light-related aging as well as protect against sunburn. UV absorbers can in small quantities but also be used as product protection.

u) denaturant

These are added to cosmetic products containing ethanol make them inedible.

v) viscosity regulator

These are capable of the viscosity of a product increase or decrease.

The aforementioned Ingredients may, according to further preferred Embodiments as a single addition or in any Combinations in the agents according to the invention be included.

Of the Content of water in preferred inventive Means is u. a. after that, whether the agent is in liquid or solid form, therefore, is preferably 0 to less than 100 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 95 wt .-%, wherein Values of at most 5% by weight, in particular for solid or nonaqueous liquid Means to find special preference. Not included this in individual raw materials, such as in particular the antiperspirant Aluminum and / or zirconium compounds, existing water of crystallization.

in the Case of liquid agents contains the inventive Means according to a preferred embodiment, water in in an amount of more than 20% by weight, advantageously more than 30 wt .-%, in a further advantageous manner more than 40 wt .-%, still more preferably more than 50% by weight, in particular 60 to 99% by weight, more preferably 70 to 98% by weight and extremely preferably 80 to 95 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

The The upper limit of water may also be 80% by weight, 70% by weight, 60% by weight, 50 wt%, 40 wt%, 30 wt%, 20 wt%, or 10 wt% wt% relative to the entire remedy.

The Lower limit of water can z. B. also at 80 wt .-%, 70 wt .-%, 60% by weight, 50% by weight, 40% by weight, 30% by weight, 20% by weight or 10% by weight relative to the entire remedy.

The mentioned upper and lower limits can of course be meaningfully combined, for. B. to water contents of 60-80 Wt .-% or 10-30 wt .-% etc.

In a further preferred embodiment, the skin treatment composition according to the invention additionally contains at least one UV-absorbing substance. When used in small amounts (up to about 1 wt .-%), the UV-absorbing substance is used to advantageously improve the light resistance of other formulation ingredients (product protection). When used in higher amounts (greater than 1% by weight), the UV-absorbing substance serves to protect the treated skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Under UV-absorbing substance are organic and inorganic substances (sunscreen) to understand, which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again. Compounds having these desired properties include, for example, the non-radiative deactivating compounds and derivatives of benzophenone having substituents in the 2- and / or 4-position. Also suitable are substituted benzotriazoles, phenyl-substituted acrylates (cinnamic acid derivatives) in the 3-position, optionally with cyano groups in the 2-position, salicylates and natural substances such as umbelliferone and the endogenous urocanic acid. The biphenyl and especially stilbene derivatives, commercially available as Tinosorb ^® FD or Tinosorb ^® FR available ex Ciba. As UV-B absorber are to call 3-Benzylidencampher or 3-Benzylidennorcampher and its derivatives, eg. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester; Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid iso-amyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene); Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate; Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate; Triazine derivatives, such as. For example, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and Octyl Triazone or Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb HEB ^®); Propane-1,3-diones, such as. B. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione; Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives. Also suitable are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-boro-nylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

As a typical UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane are suitable, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble photoprotective pigments, namely finely dispersed, preferably nano-metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are in particular zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. As salts silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used. The oxides and salts are already used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably from 5 to 50 nm and in particular from 15 to 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). As hydrophobic coating agents come especially silicones and especially Trialkoxyoctylsilane or Simethicone in question. Also preferably, micronized zinc oxide can be used. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the relevant prior art.

The at least one UV-absorbing substance is in preferred inventive Skin treatment agents in a total amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-10 wt .-%, extraordinarily preferably from 2% to 7% by weight. Dyes.

(UREA-I) in der R₁, R₂, R₃ und R₄ unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, n-Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, sek.-Butyl-, tert. Butyl- oder C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, stehen, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R₁-R₄ eine C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, darstellt.Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (UREA-I) is present to improve the skin moisture,

(UREA-I) in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ -R _{4 is} a C C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (UREA-I) is selected from compounds in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a Methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ and R ₂ and simultaneously at least one of R ₃ and R _{4 is} a C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Further preferred compositions of the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (UREA-I) is selected from bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea according to formula (UREA-I), in particular N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, in a total amount of 0.01-50% by weight, preferably 0.1-20 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-10 wt .-% and extraordinarily preferably 2-5% by weight, based on the total composition, contain. N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, at room temperature a crystalline solid, is for example as a commercial product Hydrovance from National Starch as about 45-55% aqueous Solution containing urea and ammonium lactate available.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least a DNA oligonucleotide or at least one RNA oligonucleotide.

According to the invention under an oligonucleotide polymers from 2-20, preferred 2-10 mononucleotides, as well as polynucleotides and nucleic acids by phosphoric acid diester bridges are linked. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in β-N-glycosidic linkage to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, Uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, especially CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (Uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine 5'-triphosphate).

An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they are at least a DNA oligonucleotide and / or an RNA oligonucleotide in total amounts of 0.000001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, based on the entire composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one natural betaine compound. Natural betaine compounds of the invention are naturally occurring compounds having the atomic group R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^- according to IUPAC Rule C-816.1. So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge formally reside on O, S, B or C, but which are not of the IUPAC Comply with rule C-816.1. According to the invention preferred betaine are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^-) carnitine and (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^-), each with Me = methyl and X = C-C single bond (in Case of betaine) or X = -CHOH-CH ₂ - (in the case of carnitine).

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount from 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the Compositions according to the invention in addition to at least an α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or its ester, lactone or salt form. According to the invention preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids are glycolic acid, Lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-Hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, Erythraric, threaric, glucaric, Galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, Pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are Lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. The esters of the acids mentioned are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, Butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid and / or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or a derivative, in particular an ester, a lactone or a salt thereof, in one Total amount of 0.01-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-5 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5-1-2 wt .-%, respectively based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the compositions of the invention silymarin. Silymarin according to the invention is an earlier regarded as a unitary substance concentrate from the Fruits of milk thistle (Silybum marianum). The main components of Silymarin are Silybin (Silymarin I), Silychristin (Silymarin II) and silydianin, which belong to the group of flavanolignans.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions contain silymarin in amounts of 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 0.01 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least a naturally occurring xanthine derivative selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline. According to the invention preferred are the naturally occurring xanthine derivatives in amounts from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, respectively based on the total composition. In another preferred embodiment contain the inventive Compositions Ectoin. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention preferred Ectoin is in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferred 0.001 to 0.5 wt%, and more preferably 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, in each case based on the total composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the compositions of the invention creatine. creatine is the common name for N-methyl-guanidino-acetic acid or N-amidinosarcosine.

According to the invention preferred is creatine in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably 0.01 to 0.1 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an olive leaf extract (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). One Olive leaf extract particularly preferred according to the invention is under the trade name Oleanoline DPG by Vincience available. Another invention especially preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one olive leaf extract in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.5 to 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the extract as Commercial product tel quel throughout the invention Composition, included.

Olive leaf extracts can have a high content of oleanolic acid and / or Have oleanol. In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention Oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or oleuropein. Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they Oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or oleuropein in a total amount from 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight, and especially preferably 0.05 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total inventive Composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment include the compositions of the invention Ursolic acid. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they have ursolic acid in one Total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition according to the invention, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an active ingredient selected from mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters. Polyhydroxystilbenes according to the invention are stilbenes understood as having 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 hydroxy groups substituted on the two phenyl radicals, which esterified could be. Mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and fibroblasts. Particularly according to the invention Preferred hydroxystilbenes and their esters are selected from resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol), the resveratrol mono-, -di- and -triphosphorsäureestern and their salts. One Resveratrolphosphorsäureester particularly preferred according to the invention is Trisodium resveratrol triphosphates, e.g. B. available from Ajinomoto.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the is selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters, in a total amount of 0.000001-5% by weight, preferably 0.00001-1 wt%, more preferably 0.0001-0.1 Wt .-% and most preferably 0.005- 0.05 Wt .-%, contained, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition.

• – sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (Algisium, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol mannuronate (Algisium C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol mannuronate Nylon-12 (Algisium C powder^®, Exsymol)
• – ascorbylmethylsilanol (Ascorbosilane concentrate C^®, Exsymol)
• – ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (Ascorbosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane Nylon-12 (DSBC powder^®, Exsymol)
• – sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol (DSH^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (DSHC^®, Exsymol)
• – methysilanol glycyrrhizinate (Glysinol^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolhydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolisilane^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolhydroxyproline aspartate (Hydroxyprolisilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium^®, Exsymol)
• – lactoylmethylsilanol elastinate (Lasilium C^®, Exsymol)
• – dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol (Liposiliol C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol acetylmethionate (Methiosilane^®, Exsymol)
• – acetylmethionylmethylsifanol elastinate (Methiosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol tri PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol elastinate (Proteosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – pyrollidone carboxylate caustic methylsilanol (Silhydrate^®, Exsymol)
• – pyrollidone carboxylate copper methylsilanol (Silhydrate C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolcarboxymethyl theophylline (Theophyllisilane^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilancarboxymethyl theophylline alginate (Theophyllisilane C^® Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol acetyltyrosine (Tyrosilane^®, Exsymol)
• – copper acetyl tyrosinate methylsilanol (Tyrosilane C^®, Exsymol).

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one derivative of methylated silanol, preferably at least one ester of methylated silanol. Preferred derivatives of methylated silanol are selected from:

• - sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (algisium, exsymol)
• - Mannuronate methylsilanol (Algisium C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol Mannuronate Nylon-12 (Algisium C powder ^®, Exsymol)
• - ascorbylmethylsilanol (Ascorbosilane concentrate C ^®, Exsymol)
• - ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (Ascorbosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane Nylon-12 (DSBC ^® powder, Exsymol)
• - sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol (DSH ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (DSHC ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methysilanol glycyrrhizinate (Glysinol ^® , exsymol)
• - methylsilanolhydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolisilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanolhydroxyproline aspartate (Hydroxyprolisilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium ^® , exsymol)
• - lactoylmethylsilanol elastinate (Lasilium C ^®, Exsymol)
• - dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol (Liposiliol C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol acetylmethionate (Methiosilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - acetylmethionylmethylsifanol elastinate (Methiosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanol PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanol tri PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol elastinate (Proteosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - pyrollidone carboxylate caustic methylsilanol (Silhydrate ^® , exsymol)
• - pyrollidone carboxylate copper methylsilanol (Silhydrate C ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanolcarboxymethyl theophylline (Theophyllisilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilancarboxymethyl theophylline alginate (Theophyllisilane ^® C Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol acetyltyrosine (Tyrosilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - copper acetyl tyrosinate methylsilanol (Tyrosilane C ^®, Exsymol).

Especially Sodium hyaluronates are preferably dimethylsilanol, dimethylsilanol Hyaluronates, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline and methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartates. In a further preferred Embodiment contain the inventive Compositions at least one derivative of methylated silanol in total amounts of 0.001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.005-1 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-%, respectively based on the active substance throughout the invention Composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the Compositions according to the invention phytic acid. Particularly preferred cosmetic according to the invention or dermatological compositions are characterized that they produce phytic acid in a total of 0.001-1 Wt .-%, preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.05-0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of corn kernels (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract). An inventively particularly preferred extract from corn kernels is under the trade name Deliner available from the company Coletica. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular Matrix and the fibroblasts.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the is selected from extracts of corn kernels (Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract), in a total of 0.01-5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1-3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-2 Wt .-%, each based on the content of extract tel quel in the entire composition. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the is selected from extracts of corn kernels (Zea Corn (kernel kernel extract), in a total amount of 0.00001-1 wt%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 Wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) kernel Extract). A particularly preferred according to the invention Oat grain extract is under the trade name Drago Beta Glucan (02/060800) available from Symrise. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the is selected from extracts of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) kernel extract), in a total of 0.01-5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1-3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-2 Wt .-%, each based on the content of extract tel quel in the entire composition. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the is selected from extracts of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract), in a total amount of 0.00001-1 wt%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 Wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one product which is obtained by fermentation of sugared black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter ylinum, is called Kombucha and bears the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment. Such products increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred product is available under the trade name Kombuchka from the company Sederma (INC 1 name: Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethyl cellulose).

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the is selected from products produced by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Xylinum are obtained and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, in a total amount from 0.01-5 wt.%, preferably 0.1-3 wt.%, especially preferably 1-2 wt .-%, in each case based on the Content of product tel quel in the entire composition. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the is selected from products produced by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter xylinum are obtained and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, in a total amount from 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, respectively based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of lotus nuclei (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract Extracts increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. An invention particularly preferred lotus germ extract is under the trade name Lotus Germ Extract with the INCI name Water, Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract available from Maruzen.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains at least one extract of lotus seeds (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract) in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and more preferably 2-3 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. Particularly preferred cosmetic according to the invention or dermatological compositions are characterized that they contain at least one extract of lotus seeds in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the whole composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of black elderflower (Sambucus nigra Flower extract). Increase and / or improve such extracts the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. An invention particularly preferred extract of black elderflower is under the trade name Sambucus AO of the company Alpaflor / Centerchem or available from Permcos.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one extract of blacks Elderflower in amounts of 0.1-10 wt .-%, preferably 1-5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 2-3 wt .-%, in each case based on the total composition. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one extract of blacks Elder flowers in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 Wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the whole Composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an agent that inhibits beta-endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes stimulated. Particularly preferred according to the invention Stimulators of beta-endorphin synthesis are selected out

Mixtures of at least one extract from the leaves of Mentha piperita and at least one extract of cocoa beans, wherein aqueous, glycolic or aqueous-glycolic preparations of these extract mixtures, available under the trade names Caomint, Caophenol, Caobromine, Caospice and Caoorange from the company Solabia, are particularly preferred. Another particularly preferred The stimulator of beta-endorphin synthesis is the dipeptide derivative N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester with the INCI name acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, the z. B. is available as an aqueous preparation under the trade name Calmosensine of Sederma.

Further preferred stimulators of beta-endorphin synthesis are extracts of Helichrysum italicum, e.g. B. available under the trade name Areaumat Perpetua from Codif, extracts from Crithmum Maritimum, z. B. available under the trade names Areaumat Samphira and Aroleat Samphira by Codif, extracts of Lavendula stoechas, z. B. available under the trade name Areaumat Lavanda by the company Codif, extracts of Mentha piperita, as z. Available under the trade names Authenticals of Peppermint (Solabia) and Calmiskin (Silab), glutamylamidoethyl indoles, e.g. B. available under the trade name Glistin exsymol, obtained by microbial fermentation branched polysaccharide with rhamnose, galactose and glucuronic acid units with the INCI name Biosaccharides Gum-2, z. B. available under the trade name Rhamnosoft from the company Solabia, extracts from the seeds of Tephrosia Purpurea with the INCI name Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, z. B. available under the trade name Tephroline from Vincience, mixtures of the oil of Mentha arvensis leaves, lime skin oil, cypress oil, lavender oil and Cistus Ladaniferus oil with the INCI name Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil and Cupressus Sempervirens Oil and Lavandula Hybrida Oil and Cistus Ladaniferus Oil, eg. B. available under the trade name V-Tonic (Gattefossé), and hexasaccharides according to FR 2842201 as well as any mixtures of these active ingredients.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active substance for Stimulation of beta-endorphin synthesis in total amounts of 0.01-10 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1-5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 1-3 wt .-%, each based on the commercial product, the contains the active ingredient throughout the invention Composition, included. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active substance for Stimulation of beta-endorphin synthesis in total levels of .00001-1 Wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the entire composition according to the invention, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient. Sebum-regulating active substances preferred according to the invention are selected from 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid and the esters of azelaic acid, in particular potassium azeloyl diglycinate, 1,10-decanediol and at least one extract of Spiraea ulmaria, glycyrrhizin, which is also referred to as glycyrrhizic acid or glycyrrhetinic acid glycoside and the beta-glucuronido-alpha-glucuronide of glycyrrhetinic acid, and their salts, tannic acid and its salts, gallotannins, naringin, mixtures of glycyrrhizin (salts), tannic acid (salts) and / or gallotannins and naringin, as for example as a commercial product BiSCos Glynarin PF (INCI: Aqua (Water), Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Tannic Acid, Naringine) from the company Biesterfeld are available, further from water and oil-soluble extracts of witch hazel, burdock root and stinging nettle, Zimtbaumextract (z. B. Sepicontrol A5 ^® by the company SEPPIC), chrysanthemum extract (e.g. . B. Laricyl ^® from Laboratoires Sérobiologiques) Hefeproteinhydrolysaten as such. B. in the commercial products of the Asebiol ^® series of Laboratoires Serobiologiques, in particular Asebiol ^® LS 2539 BT 2 (INCI: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, pyridoxines, niacinamides, glycerol, panthenol, allantoin, biotin) and Asebiol ^® LS 2539 BT (Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Panthenol, Propylene Glycol, Allantoin, Disodium Azelate, Biotin) and PEG-8 isolauryl thioether, as described, for example, in US Pat. B. in the commercial product "Antifettfaktor ^® COS-218/2-A" of Cosmetochem is included (INCI: Aqua, cetyl-PCA, PEG-8 Isolauryl thioether, PCA, cetyl alcohol), and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Preferred blends are available, for example, as the commercial product Acnacidol PG (propylene glycol, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, 1,10-decanediol) from Vincience. A preferred extract of Spiraea ulmaria is z. B. contained in the product Seboregul 2 Silab. Kaliumazeloyldiglycinat is z. B. contained in the product Azeloglicina Sinerga. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient in total amounts of 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight and more preferably 0.1 to 1-2 Wt .-%, each based on the active ingredient in the total composition according to the invention.

Optionally, the skin treatment compositions according to the invention preferably further comprise at least one particulate, sebum-sorbing active ingredient, in particular talc, starch and other particles. OF INVENTION According to preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that the particulate, sebumsorbierende active ingredient is selected from inorganic and organic cosmetic adsorbents having average particle diameters of 0.1-100 .mu.m, preferably 0.5-50 .mu.m, more preferably 5-30 .mu.m and extremely preferably 10-25 μm. Particularly preferred inorganic adsorbents are selected from silicas, particularly Aerosil ^® grades, silica gels, silica, clays and layered silicates, in particular bentonite or kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicates, in particular talc, and boron nitride, and mixtures of said substances. Particularly preferred organic adsorbents are selected from starches and starch derivatives, which may be modified chemically and / or physically, in particular modified starch derivatives of type DRY FLO ^® by National Starch, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin, particularly sodium C _8-16 -Isoalkylsuccinyllactoglobulinsulfonat, z. B. available as a commercial product Biopol ^® OE Brooks Industries, polymer powders of polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyamides, polyesters, polystyrenes, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polymethyl methacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, Teflon or silicones , Wherein said polymer powders may be crosslinked in a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, and mixtures of said substances.

Polymer powder based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are z. B. as a commercial product Polytrap ^® 6603 (Dow Corning) available. Other polymer powders, e.g. Example based on polyamides, obtainable under the name Orgasol ^® 1002 (polyamide-6) and Orgasol ^® 2002 (polyamide-12) from Elf Atochem. Further according to the invention particularly preferred polymer powders are crosslinked polymethacrylates (Micro Pearl ^® M from SEPPIC or Plastic Powder A of NIKKOL), cross-linked polymethyl (Micro Pearl ^® M 305 and Micro Pearl ^® M 310 from SEPPIC), styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (e.g., B. Plastic Powder FP (of NIKKOL), polyethylene and polypropylene powder z. B. ACCUREL EP 400 ^® (ex AKZO) or silicone polymers z. B. silicone powder X2-1605 from Dow Corning).

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the particulate, sebumsorbierende drug on cavities. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the particulate, sebumsorbierende agent has hemispherical particles, more preferably at least 50 wt .-% of the particles are hemispherical. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the particulate, sebumsorbierende agent has hemispherical particles with cavities, more preferably at least 50 wt .-% of the particles are hemispherical with cavities. Particularly preferred particulate, sebumsorbierende agents are crosslinked polymethyl methacrylates with average particle diameters of 5-50 microns, in particular the commercial products Micropearl ^® M 305 and Micropearl ^® M 310 SEPPIC. Extremely preferred particulate, sebumsorbierende agents are crosslinked polymethyl methacrylates with average particle diameters of 5-50 microns, which include hemispherical particles with cavities, more preferably at least 50 wt .-% of the particles are hemispherical with cavities, such as the commercial product Micropearl ^® M 310 of SEPPIC.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one particulate sebum-sorbing agent in a total amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 1 to 5% by weight and particularly preferably 1.5 to 3 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least a deoxy sugar or at least one deoxy sugar building block containing polysaccharide.

Preferred deoxysugars according to the invention are selected from rhamnose and fucose. An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product fucogel ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum -1. Another inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Rhamnosoft ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2. An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Fucogenol ^® by using the INCI name Solabia Biosaccharide Gum-third An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Glycofilm ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-fourth According to the invention furthermore given to mixtures of the above, containing at least one deoxy-block polysaccharides, for example the mixture of Biosaccharide Gum-2 and Biosaccharide Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia are.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one deoxysugar and / or at least one deoxysugar-containing polysaccharide in total amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1 wt. -%, in each case based on the total composition of the invention included.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an organic skin lightening agent. According to the invention preferred Skin lightening agents are selected individually or in mixtures from hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, extracts from licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra), extracts from different parts of the mulberry tree (Morus spp., Especially from Morus alba and here especially extracts from tree bark, trunk, leaves and fruits), Extracts of Scutellaria spp. (Skullcap), especially from Scutellaria baicalensis (Baikal helmetwort) and here in particular extracts root, extracts from Waltheria indica ("Sleepy Morning") and here in particular extracts from the leaves, extracts from bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (L.), Ericaceae) and here in particular extracts from the leaves, extracts from cranberry (leaves and flowers), extracts from blueberry (fruits), extracts of leaf buds from Pear trees, aniseed oil, extracts of blackberry leaves, furthermore extracts from Pyrola rotundifolia (Rundblättriges Wintergreen), cucumber and / or lime, ascorbic acid, Coumaric acid ((Z) -2-hydroxycinnamic acid) and cis-9-octadecenedioic acid (other nomenclature: cis-8-hexadecenedicarboxylic acid), the latter commercially available for. B. under the name Arlatone DIOIC DCA from Uniqema, and the esters and / or salts of these acids. Particularly preferred cosmetic according to the invention or dermatological compositions are characterized that they contain at least one organic skin lightening agent in total amounts of 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1-2 wt .-%, respectively based on the active substance throughout the invention Composition, included.

advantageously, are the skin treatment compositions of the invention in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, Multiple emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water-in-oil or water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, Microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, a hydrogel, a lipogel, a single- or multi-phase solution, a foam, a powder or a mixture with at least a polymer suitable as a medical adhesive. The means may also be in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm. Here, the carrier a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils be.

In a particular embodiment of the invention Means are the means as microemulsion. Under microemulsions be in the context of the invention in addition to the thermodynamically stable Microemulsions and the so-called "PIT" emulsions Understood. These emulsions are systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier at room temperature present as an oil-in-water emulsion. When heating These systems are formed in a certain temperature range (as Phase inversion temperature or "PIT"). Microemulsions, which in further heating in Convert water-in-oil emulsions. When followed Cooling again O / W emulsions are formed, but even at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided Emulsions with a mean particle diameter below 400 nm and especially from about 100-300 nm. According to the invention such micro or "PIT" emulsions preferred be, which have a mean particle diameter of about 200 nm.

One Another object of the present invention is the use of compositions according to the invention for non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment and / or minimization of skin wrinkles and - fine, the signs of intrinsic and extrinsic Skin aging, tired and / or flabby skin, UV-damaged Skin and / or irritated skin.

In terms of further preferred embodiments of the invention Uses applies mutatis mutandis to the invention Means said.

One Another object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic Method for non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment and / or Minimization of skin wrinkles and wrinkles, the signs intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, more tired and / or sagging skin, UV damaged skin and / or irritated skin, characterized in that an inventive Skin treatment agent is applied to the skin.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, mu tatis mutandis what was said about the agents according to the invention.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• - US 6342254 [0006]
• WO 2002/055048 A1 [0006]
• WO 2004/004680 A2 [0006]
• - JP 2002047169 A [0006]
• JP 2008074725 A [0006]
• - DE 102004028302 B4 [0081]
• - DE 10333245 A [0116]
• - DE 102004011968 A [0116]
• DE 19756454 A1 [0121]
• WO 2006/130330 A2 [0126]
• FR 2842201 [0186]

Cited non-patent literature

• Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd ed., 1979, Vol. 8, pages 913-916 [0124]
• Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd Ed., 1979, Vol. 8, page 913 [0124]

Claims (15)

Cosmetic or dermatological topical composition containing, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier - based on its weight - a) at least one dormancy-regulating active substance-containing extract of Leucojum aestivum, b) 0.0001 to 10 wt .-% of at least one active ingredient from the Group - of the antioxidants selected from: the 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dialkylchromans or chromenes of the general formulas (I) or (II),

wherein R ^{1 is} an OH group, R ^{2 is} a methoxy group and R ³ and R ^{4 are} methyl groups, and / or - Vitis vinifera polyphenols, and / or - the carotenes, preferably α-carotene, β-carotene and lycopene, and / or the xanthophylls, preferably astaxanthin and lutein, and / or the antioxidant extracts of Tinospora crispa and / or baicalin, and / or dihydroquercetin, and / or ellagic acid and / or ellagates and / or superoxide dismutases ; The oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances and / or the active substances which express the enzymatic activity or the expression of the L-isoform of lysyl oxidase (LOXL) which are selected from extracts of the group consisting of dill (Peucedanum graveolens), especially dill seeds, furthermore currant (currant), cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum), black radish, small holly, cinnamon, oat (Avena sativa), Potato, silk and Asea foetida gum, and / or - the hydrophilic extracts from Hibiscus Abelmoschus, in particular the protein fractions from the seeds of Hibiscus Abelmoschus, - hyaluronic acid and / or - apple seed extract and / or - the isoflavonoids and / or - the phytosterols and / or - triterpenoids. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, still further preferably containing 0.2 to 0.3 wt .-% dormancy-regulating agents Extract of Leucojum aestivum contains, where the weights on the content of extract dry matter in the whole composition Respectively. Composition according to one of the claims 1 or 2, characterized in that - based on their weight - a total of 0.00001 to 0.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.2 wt%, more preferably 0.01 to 0.1 wt%, still more preferably 0.05 to 0.08 wt .-%, of at least one dormancy-regulating active ingredient from Leucojum aestivum, preferably from abscisic acid is selected contains. Composition according to one of the claims 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that - based on their weight - in total 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and especially 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dialkylchromans or chromenes of the general formulas (I) or (II). Composition according to one of the claims 1 to 4, characterized in that - based on her Weight - at least one Vitis vinifera polyphenol in one Total amount of 0.001-2 wt.%, Preferably 0.005-1 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-%, extraordinarily preferably 0.05-0.2 wt .-%, contains. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they are based on their weight - at least one carotene in a total amount of 0.001-2 wt .-%, preferably 0.005-1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-%, most preferably 0.05-0.2 Wt .-%, contains. Composition according to one of the claims 1 to 6, characterized in that - based on her Weight - at least one xanthophyll in a total amount from 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.005-1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-%, extraordinarily preferably 0.05-0.2 wt .-%, contains. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0002 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-%, even further preferably 0.005 to 0.3 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 0.1 wt .-% at least one antioxidant extract from the strain, the leaves and / or roots of Tinospora crispa contains. Composition according to one of the claims 1 to 8, characterized in that they - based on her Weight - Baicalin in amounts of 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0002 to 1 wt%, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt%, still more preferably 0.005 to 0.3% by weight and especially 0.05 to 0.1 wt .-%, contains. Composition according to one of the claims 1 to 9, characterized in that they are based on their weight - at least a superoxide dismutase in a total amount of 0.0001-1 Wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.001-0.01-0.05 wt% and extraordinarily preferably 0.002-0.005 wt .-%, contains. Composition according to one of the claims 1 to 10, characterized in that - based on their weight - 0.001-2% by weight in total, preferably 0.005-1 wt%, more preferably 0.01-0.5 wt% and in particular 0.05-0.1% by weight of at least one active substance, the enzymatic activity or the expression of the L-isoform of lysyl oxidase (LOXL) is stimulated and selected is from the group of extracts from the group consisting of dill (Peucedanum Graveolens), especially from dill seeds from currant (currant), cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum), black Radish, Small Holly, Cinnamon, Oats (Avena sativa), Potato, Silk and / or Asea foetida gum. Composition according to one of the claims 1 to 11, characterized in that they are at least one hydrophilic Extract of ambrette seeds in a total amount of 0.0001-0.5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.001-0.1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.005-0.05% by weight and most preferred 0.01-0.04 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the entire composition. Composition according to one of the claims 1 to 12, characterized in that - based on their weight - at least one isoflavonoid in a total from 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 0.5% by weight preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by weight and in particular 0.02 to 0.05% by weight, contain. Use of a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 13 for non-therapeutic, cosmetic Treatment and / or minimization of skin wrinkles and wrinkles, the signs of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, tired and / or flabby skin, UV-damaged Skin and / or irritated skin. Non-therapeutic method for non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment and / or minimization of skin wrinkles and - fine, the signs of intrinsic and extrinsic Skin aging, tired and / or flabby skin, UV-damaged Skin and / or irritated skin, characterized in that a skin treatment agent according to one of claims 1 to 13 the skin is applied.