DE10333245A1 - Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition e.g. useful for promoting the growth of desirable skin microorganisms comprises a plant extract with prebiotic activity on the skin - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising a plant extract with prebiotic activity on the skin, is new. Independent claims are also included for: (1) use of plant extracts with prebiotic activity on the skin in cosmetic skin treatment compositions for promoting the growth of desirable skin microorganisms; (2) use of plant extracts with prebiotic activity on the skin in cosmetic skin treatment compositions for inhibiting the growth of undesirable skin microorganisms; (3) use of plant extracts with prebiotic activity on the skin to prepare topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions for prebiotic skin treatment. ACTIVITY : Dermatological; Antibacterial; Fungicide; Antiseborrheic. Cultures of Staphylococcus warneri and Propionibacterium acnes were incubated with guarana extract (1%) for 30 hours. The difference between the optical density of the cultures and that of control cultures was 0.41 for Staphylococcus warneri and -0.04 for Propionibacterium acnes. MECHANISM OF ACTION : Prebiotic.

Description

object The present invention is plant extracts that are on the skin prebiotic are effective, these plant extracts containing topical cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions, and the use of these Plant extracts and compositions.

inflammatory conditions The skin becomes harmful Bacteria, for example Propionibacterium acnes, caused, permanently on the skin, but under certain conditions Conditions stronger proliferate and lead to, for example, "blemished skin" or acne So this is essentially about microorganisms (bacteria and fungi), which are classified as pathogenic.

The resident bacterial skin flora is also still from other bacterial species that not only does no harm but rather by their growth the harmful germs in check and thus exercise an important protective function. For this belong especially coagulase-negative staphylococci such as S. epidermidis. In general, for the benign, desired Skin germs also the term "saprophyt" used There are also desired Skin germs, according to the current classification, not the group associated with the "saprophyte" skin germs as well as germs classified as "pathogenic" that may exist desirable are so that a demarcation between "desired" and "undesirable" is not congruent with a Differentiation between "saprophyt" and "pathogen". It is here especially about taking into account that benign, skin-friendly germs are pathogenic if they multiply too much can be. The classification of bacteria as pathogenic is therefore appropriate depends on the composition of the microbial skin flora.

unselective antibacterial agents, such as those for acne prevention and fight against in commercial Cosmetics are used, kill not just the unwanted ones Skin germs but also desirable Skin germs and lead so to a disturbance of biological balance, causing various undesirable consequences may have.

It There is therefore a need to have resources available that are selective at the application site skin growth and / or survivability the desirable one Germs against the skin flora growth and / or survivability the unwanted Promote germs of the skin flora. Such substances are also referred to as "prebiotic".

Of the Proof of a prebiotic Effect of substances has hitherto been essentially limited to this Intestum. Thus, in various publications the use of Substances that are beneficial on growth more desirable Intestinal bacteria are described. Ahn et al. (1990) Microbial Ecology in Health and Disease 3, 223-229, describes in particular the use of a ginseng extract.

For the skin, it has so far only been reported that an oligosaccharide causes a prebiotic effect (leaflet about BioEcolia ^{® of} the Solabia Group, France), in that it can be used selectively by saprophyte bacteria. It has been shown here that the oligosaccharide used promotes the growth of Micrococcus kristinae both against the growth of Staphylococcus aureus and against the growth of Corynebacterium xerosis.

Furthermore In EP1050300 it was reported that a mixture of farnesol and Xylitol as a prebiotic Substance can be used as this mixture is selectively antibacterial across from S. aureus acts and thus the competing germ S. epidermidis can multiply better.

task The present invention was now to find other substances to do on the skin or in the skin flora prebiotic are effective.

Surprisingly Now plant extracts have been found that have a prebiotic effect on the skin cause and therefore be used advantageously for skin treatment can.

According to the invention, a prebiotic effect is to be understood as meaning that the growth and / or survivability of the desired, in particular skin-friendly, skin germs or microflora over the Growth and / or survivability of unwanted, especially skin-hostile, skin germs or microflora is promoted. This can be achieved both by the fact that the active substance promotes the growth of the desired skin germs, without directly influencing the growth of the unwanted skin germs, and by the fact that the active substance is inhibiting the growth of unwanted skin germs, without direct influence to take on the growth of the desired skin germs. In a particularly preferred and particularly surprising embodiment of the invention, however, the active ingredient promotes the growth of the desired skin germs and at the same time inhibits the growth of the unwanted skin germs.

According to the invention are the term "skin" is preferred by the skin itself, especially the human skin, but also the Mucous membrane as well as skin appendages, provided they live cells include, in particular hair follicles, hair root, hair bulb, the ventral epithelium of the nail bed (Lectulus) as well as sebaceous glands and Sweat glands to understand.

object The present invention thus relates to the use of prebiotic effective, especially on the skin prebiotic effective, plant extracts in cosmetic topical skin treatment products for promotion of growth more desirable Skin germs, wherein it is preferable to the desired skin germs benign and / or non-pathogenic and / or skin-friendly and / or saprophyte skin germs and / or coagulase-negative staphylococci, in particular S. epidermidis, S. hominis, S. warneri, S. saprophyticus, S. xylosus, S. capitis or S. simulans., Especially preferably S. epidermidis or S. warneri.

object The present invention is thus further the use of prebiotic effective, especially on the skin prebiotic effective, plant extracts in cosmetic topical skin treatment agents for inhibiting the Growth unwanted Skin germs, with the undesirable germs being preferred Skin-hostile germs and / or pathogens and / or coagulase-positive Staphylococci, in particular S. aureus, or selected from germs the group consisting of Propionibacterium acnes, Candida albicans, Malassezia furfur, Corynebacterium spp. Or peptostreptococcus spp., especially Propionibacterium acnes.

In one according to the invention especially preferred embodiment If the prebiotic plant extract is an extract, that conducive for the Growth of coagulase-negative staphylococci, in particular of S. epidermidis or S. warneri, is and at the same time inhibits this Growth of Propionibacterium acnes works.

Preferably is the invention, on the skin prebiotic effective plant extract suitable to the naturally occurring healthy restore microbial balance of the skin flora or to stabilize.

object Further, the use of the present invention is prebiotic effective, and in particular on the skin prebiotically active, plant extracts in cosmetic topical skin treatment agents for treatment of impure, dry or oily skin and for treatment of skin fungi or dandruff, in particular for the treatment of Acne. The treatment can, as in other applications, preventive respectively.

object The present invention is further a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition containing a prebiotic Plant extract, especially on the skin prebiotic plant extract, which is the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition preferably a topical skin treatment agent.

The prebiotic effective plant extract is hereby preferably in an amount from 0.01 to 20, more preferably from 0.05 to 10, especially from 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the composition, contained in the composition.

at the prebiotic according to the invention active plant extract is preferably a conifer extract, in particular from the group of Pinaceae, or an extract from the group of Sapindaceae, Araliaceae, Lamiaceae or Saxifragaceae or mixtures thereof.

The plant extract is particularly preferably an extract of Picea spp., In particular an extract of Picea excelsa (synonymom Picea abies, spruce) or of Picea glauca (Sugarloaf spruce, Norway Spruce), Paullinia sp. (Guiana), Panax sp. (Ginseng), Lamium album (White Nettle) or Ribes nigrum (Blackcurrant, blackcurrant) or mixtures thereof.

The Preparation of the prebiotic Effective plant extract may be in any manner known to those skilled in the art using any plant tissue and using take any extraction agent. So can the plant extract for example, by extraction of the entire plant, by extraction from flowers, Scroll, Seeds, roots and / or extraction from the meristem of the plant respectively.

When Extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts can For example, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof used become. As alcohols, for example, lower alcohols such as Ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol in question, and although both as sole extractant as well as in mixture with water. For example, plant extracts based on of water / propylene glycol in the ratio 1:10 to 10: 1 as proved particularly suitable. The extraction can be, for example be carried out in the form of steam distillation. Possibly Dry extraction can also be carried out.

In a preferred according to the invention embodiment it is the extract of Sapindaceae, and in particular from Guayana to a dry extract of seeds.

at the extract of coniferous trees, and in particular from Pinaceae, it is preferred according to the invention an extract from the needles. In the extract from Picea abies or Picea excelsa is preferably a water / propylene glycol extract, in the extract of P. glauca, a water / ethanol extract.

at the extract of Araliaceae, and especially ginseng it is preferably a root extract.

at the extract of Lamiaceae, especially White Nettle it is preferably a water / propylene glycol extract.

at the extract of Saxifragaceae, especially Blackcurrant it is preferably a water / propylene glycol extract.

The prebiotic plant extracts which are effective on the skin can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture. Depending on the choice of extractants, it may be preferable to stabilize the plant extract by adding a solubilizer. Suitable solubilizers are, for. B. Ethoxylation products of optionally hydrogenated vegetable and animal oils. Preferred solubilizers are ethoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides of C _8-22 fatty acids having from 4 to 50 ethylene oxide units, e.g. Hydrogenated ethoxylated castor oil, olive oil ethoxylate, almond oil ethoxylate, mink oil ethoxylate, polyoxyethylene glycol capryl - / - / capric acid glycerides, polyoxyethylene glycerol monolaurate and polyoxyethylene glycol coconut fatty acid glycerides.

at the cosmetic according to the invention or pharmaceutical composition can be any Dosage form, for example a soap, a lotion, a spray, cream, gel, emulsion, cleaning fluid or cleansing milk, a deodorant, an antiperspirant, an ointment, a hair conditioner or a shampoo and it can also be described in any of them or other forms of administration, for example even in a patch, especially in a gel reservoir or Matrix patch.

When Application site, the skin of each body area in question, in particular the facial skin, the scalp, the skin on the feet and hands, the skin in the Achelhöhlen as well as the vaginal mucosa.

The cosmetic according to the invention or pharmaceutical composition may also contain other ingredients contain. In a preferred embodiment, it contains at least one of the listed below Substances. You can also use any combination of the following enumerated Contain ingredients.

In a preferred embodiment contains the composition of the invention selected at least one substance from vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors of the vitamin B group or their derivatives and the derivatives of 2-furanone.

• • Vitamin B₁, Trivialname Thiamin, chemische Bezeichung 3-[(4'-Amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl)-methyl]-5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-4-methylthiazoliumchlorid. Bevorzugt wird Thiaminhydrochlorid in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, eingesetzt.
• • Vitamin B₂, Trivialname Riboflavin, chemische Bezeichung 7,8-Dimethyl-10-(1-D-ribityl)-benzo[g]pteridin-2,4(3H,10H)-dion. In freier Form kommt Riboflavin z. B. in Molke vor, andere Riboflavin-Derivate lassen sich aus Bakterien und Hefen isolieren. Ein erfindungsgemäß ebenfalls geeignetes Stereoisomeres des Riboflavin ist das aus Fischmehl oder Leber isolierbare Lyxoflavin, das statt des D-Ribityl einen D-Arabityl-Rest trägt. Bevorzugt werden Riboflavin oder seine Derivate in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, eingesetzt.
• • Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten ist.
• • Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Bevorzugt wird Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung können an Stelle von sowie zusätzlich zu Pantothensäure oder Panthenol auch Derivate des 2-Furanon mit der allgemeinen Strukturtormel (I) eingesetzt werden.
  
  Bevorzugt sind die 2-Furanon-Derivate, in denen die Substituenten R¹ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander ein Wasserstoffatom, einen Hydroxylrest, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl- oder Hydroxymethylrest, einen gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten C₂-C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxy-C₂-C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest oder einen gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triamino-C₂-C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest darstellen. Besonders bevorzugte Derivate sind die auch im Handel erhältlichen Substanzen Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanon mit dem Trivialnamen Pantolacton (Merck), 4-Hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolacton (Merck), 3,3-Dimethyl-2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolacton (Aldrich) und 2,5-Dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanon (Merck), wobei ausdrücklich alle Stereoisomeren eingeschlossen sind. Das erfindungsgemäß außerordentlich bevorzugte Pantolacton 2-Furanon-Derivat ist (Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanon), wobei in Formel (I) R¹ für eine Hydroxylgruppe, R² für ein Wasserstoffatom, R³ und R⁴ für eine Methylgruppe und R⁵ und R⁶ für ein Wasserstoffatom stehen. Das Stereoisomer (R)-Pantolacton entsteht beim Abbau von Pantothensäure. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs sowie die 2-Furanonderivate sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Gesamtmengen von 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.
• • Vitamin B₆, wobei man hierunter keine einheitliche Substanz, sondern die unter den Trivialnamen Pyridoxin, Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal bekannten Derivate des 5-Hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols versteht. Vitamin B₆ ist in den erfin dungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• • Vitamin B₇ (Biotin), auch als Vitamin H oder "Hautvitamin" bezeichnet. Bei Biotin handelt es sich um (3aS,4S, 6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]imidazol-4-valeriansäure. Biotin ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-% enthalten.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• • Vitamin B ₁ , common name thiamin, chemical name 3 - [(4'-amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl) -methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• • Vitamin B ₂ , common name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) -benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3H, 10H) -dione. In free form riboflavin z. As in whey, other riboflavin derivatives can be isolated from bacteria and yeasts. A stereoisomer of riboflavin which is likewise suitable according to the invention is the lyxoflavin which can be isolated from fishmeal or liver and carries a D-arabityl residue instead of the D-ribityl. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• • Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• • Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol, it is also possible to use derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (I).
  
  Preference is given to the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ⁶ independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched one C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono , Di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The pantolactone 2-furanone derivative extraordinarily preferred according to the invention is (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), where in formula (I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 represent} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and the 2-furanone derivatives are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Total amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
• • Vitamin B ₆ , which is not understood to be a uniform substance but the derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ol known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal. Vitamin B ₆ is preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• • Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also referred to as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

panthenol, Pantolactone, nicotinic acid amide and biotin are very particular to the invention prefers.

One Another object of the invention is a cosmetic or pharmaceutical A skin treatment composition containing a prebiotic plant extract and at least one other plant extract. This further Plant extract, for example, by extraction of the entire Plant, but also exclusively by extraction from flowers and / or scrolling and / or seeds and / or other parts of plants. According to the invention are available especially the extracts from the meristem, that is, the divisible formation tissue of plants, and extracts of special plants such as green tea, Hamamelis, Chamomile, Marigold, Pansy, Paeonie, Aloe Vera, Horse chestnut, sage, willow bark, cinnamon tree, chrysanthemums, Oak bark, stinging nettle, hops, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almonds, Sandalwood, juniper, coconut, Kiwi, guava, lime, mango, apricot, wheat, melon, orange, grapefruit, Avocado, Rosemary, Birch, Beech shoots, Mallow, Meadowfoam, Yarrow, Quendel, Thyme, Melissa, Hauhechel, Marshmallow (Althaea), Mallow (Malva sylvestris), violet, coltsfoot, five-toed herb, Ginger root and sweet potato preferred as another plant extract. Advantageously used can also algae extracts. The algae extracts used according to the invention come from green algae, Brown algae, red algae or blue-green algae (cyanobacteria). The extraction used algae can both natural Origin as well as obtained by biotechnological processes and if desired across from the natural one Shape changed be. The change Organisms can be genetically engineered, through breeding or through cultivation in with selected nutrients enriched media. Preferred algae extracts are derived from seaweed, blue-green algae, from the green alga Codium tomentosum as well as from the brown alga Fucus vesiculosus. A particularly preferred algae extract comes from blue-green algae of the species Spirulina, which is in a magnesium-enriched Medium were cultivated.

When Another plant extract particularly preferred are the extracts Spirulina, green Tea, Aloe Vera, Meristem, Hamamelis, Apricot, Marigold, Guava, Sweet potato, Lime, mango, kiwi, cucumber, mallow, marshmallow and violet. The agents according to the invention can as additional Plant extract also mixtures of several, especially two, various plant extracts included.

When Extraction agent for the preparation of said other plant extracts can as well as for the production of prebiotic plant extracts For example, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof used become. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, Propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both as sole Extracting agent as well as in admixture with water, preferred. plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in the ratio 1: 10 to 10: 1 have proved to be particularly suitable. The steam distillation falls under the invention the preferred extraction methods. The extraction may but if necessary also in the form of dry extraction.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture. Depending on the choice of extractants, it may be preferable to stabilize the plant extract by adding a solubilizer. Suitable solubilizers are, for. B. Ethoxylation products of optionally hydrogenated vegetable and animal oils. Preferred solubilizers are ethoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides of C _8-22 fatty acids having from 4 to 50 ethylene oxide units, e.g. Hydrogenated ethoxylated castor oil, olive oil ethoxylate, almond oil ethoxylate, mink oil ethoxylate, polyoxyethylene glycol capryl - / - / capric acid glycerides, polyoxyethylene glycerol monolaurate and polyoxyethylene glycol coconut fatty acid glycerides.

Farther it may be preferred in the inventive compositions of several, especially from two, different plant extracts additionally to the prebiotic use effective plant extract.

Regarding the invention usable Plant extracts continue to be referred to the extracts that in page 44 of the 3rd edition of the Guidance on the Declaration of Ingredients Cosmetic agent, published by the Industrieverband Körperpflege- and Detergents e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt, beginning table are listed.

The invention further provides a cosmetic or pharmaceutical skin treatment composition containing a prebiotic plant extract and at least one MMP-1-inhibiting substance selected from photolyase and / or T4 endonuclease V, propyl gallate, precocenes, 6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2 -dimethyl-1 (2H) -benzopyran, 3,4-dihydro-6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-1 (2H) -benzopyran (available as a product Lipochroman 6TM from Lipotec SA) and their mixtures. Precocene are plant-occurring chromene derivatives known as hormones (The Merck Index, 12th Edition, Merck & Co. 1996). The MMP-1-inhibiting effect of these substances is in the German Offenlegungsschrift DE 10016016 A1 described. They are used in amounts of 0.1 to 5, preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the skin treatment compositions according to the invention additionally contain at least one ester of retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) with a C _2-18 carboxylic acid. Preferred retinol esters are retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate, particularly preferred is retinyl palmitate. The retinol esters are used in amounts of 0.1 to 5, preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.

In a further preferred embodiment, in particular when used as an emulsion or surfactant solution, especially as a cleaning agent, the skin treatment compositions according to the invention contain at least one surface-active substance as emulsifier or dispersant. Emulsifiers cause at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. W / O emulsions stabilized without hydrophilic emulsifiers are disclosed in the publications DE 19816665 A1 and DE 19801593 A1 disclosed. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare C₈-C₂₂-Fettalkohole, an C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuren und an C₈-C₁₅-Alkylphenole,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an C₃-C₆-Polyole, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen, z. B. das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3–6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten C₈-C₂₂-Fettsäuren,
• – Sterole (Sterine). Als Sterole wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterole) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterole) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterole sind das Cholesterol und das Lanosterol. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterole sind Beta-Sitosterol, Stigmasterol, Campesterol und Ergosterol. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterole, die sogenannten Mykosterole, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide, vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z. B. als Lecithine bzw. Phosphatidylcholine aus z. B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z. B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden,
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate, bevorzugt Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH) und Polyglyceryl-3-düsostearat (Handelsprodukt Lameform^® TGI),
• – Lineare und verzweigte C₈-C₃₀-Fettsäuren und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca- Mg- und Zn – Salze.

Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

• Addition products of 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear C ₈ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols, on C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids and on C ₈ -C ₁₅ -alkylphenols,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto C ₃ -C ₆ -polyols, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• - Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, eg. As the commercially available product Montanov ^® 68,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids,
• - Sterols (sterols). Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol. From mushrooms and yeasts sterols, the so-called mycosterols, isolated.
• - Phospholipids, especially the glucose phospholipids, the z. B. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans),
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol, preferably Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls ^® PGPH commercial product) and polyglyceryl-3-düsostearat (commercial product Lameform ^® TGI),
• - Linear and branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca-Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, in particular 0,5 - 15 Wt .-%, based on the total agent.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 and below, according to the in Römpp Lexicon Chemistry (Eds .: J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions of the HLB value. Such emulsifiers are, for example, compounds of the general formula R ¹ -OR ² in which R ^{1 is} a primary linear alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group having 20-30 C atoms and R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a group having the formula - (C _n H _2n O) _x -H with x = 1 or 2 and n = 2-4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group with 4-6 C atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups. Particularly preferred emulsifier of the formula R ¹ -OR ² is a behene or erucyl derivative in which R ^{1 is} a linear, terminally substituted alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group with 22 C atoms represents.

Further preferred emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 and below are the adducts of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenic acid or erucic acid. Preferably, the monoesters of C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with polyols such as. As pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methyl glucose. Examples of such products are z. B. sorbitan monobehenate or pentaerythritol monoerucate.

In another, likewise particularly preferred embodiment, at least one ionic emulsifier selected from anionic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and cationic emulsifiers is contained. Preferred anionic emulsifiers are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates. Zwitterionic emulsifiers carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^- - or -SO ₃ group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.

Ampholytic emulsifiers contain, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and can form internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic emulsifiers are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.

The ionic emulsifiers are in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 3 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total agent included.

• – alkoxylierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel R¹CO-(OCH₂CHR²)_xOR³, in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und x für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylamin-N-oxide,
• – Alkylpolygykoside entsprechend der allgemeinen Formel RO-(Z)_x wobei R für eine C₈-C₁₆-Alkylgruppe, Z für Zucker sowie x für die Anzahl der Zuckereinheiten steht. Die erfindungsgemäß verwendbaren Alkylpolyglykoside können lediglich einen bestimmten Alkylrest R enthalten. Üblicherweise werden diese Verbindungen aber ausgehend von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen oder Mineralölen hergestellt. In diesem Fall liegen als Alkylreste R Mischungen entsprechend den Ausgangsverbindungen bzw. entsprechend der jeweiligen Aufarbeitung dieser Verbindungen vor. Besonders bevorzugt sind solche Alkylpolyglykoside, bei denen R im wesentlichen aus C₈- und C₁₀-Alkylgruppen, im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- und C₁₄-Alkylgruppen, im wesentlichen aus C₈- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen besteht. Als Zuckerbaustein Z können beliebige Mono- oder Oligosaccharide eingesetzt werden. Üblicherweise werden Zucker mit 5 bzw. 6 Kohlenstoffatomen sowie die entsprechenden Oligosaccharide eingesetzt, beispielsweise Glucose, Fructose, Galactose, Arabinose, Ribose, Xylose, Lyxose, Allose, Altrose, Mannose, Gulose, Idose, Talose und Sucrose. Bevorzugte Zuckerbausteine sind Glucose, Fructose, Galactose, Arabinose und Sucrose; Glucose ist besonders bevorzugt. Die erfindungsgemäß verwendbaren Alkylpolyglykoside enthalten im Schnitt 1,1 bis 5, bevorzugt 1,1 bis 2,0 besonders bevorzugt 1,1 bis 1,8 Zuckereinheiten. Auch die alkoxylierten Homologen der genannten Alkylpolyglykoside können erfindungsgemäß eingesetzt werden. Diese Homologen können durchschnittlich bis zu 10 Ethylenoxid- und/oder Propylenoxideinheiten pro Alkylglykosideinheit enthalten.

Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention may contain foaming nonionic, zwitterionic, anionic and cationic surfactants. Examples of nonionic surfactants are

• - alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _x OR ³ , in which R ¹ CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 represents} linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and x represents numbers from 1 to 20,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylamine N-oxides,
• - Alkylpolygykoside according to the general formula RO- (Z) _x wherein R is a C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl group, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can only contain one particular alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds. Particular preference is given to those alkyl polyglycosides in which R consists essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups, essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ -alkyl groups, essentially of C ₈ to C ₁₆ -alkyl groups or essentially of C ₁₂ - To C ₁₆ alkyl groups. As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used, for example glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1.1 to 5, preferably 1.1 to 2.0, more preferably 1.1 to 1.8 sugar units. The alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^(-) group. Be particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosalkyldimethylammoniumglycinat, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3 -hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

• – Acylglutamate der Formel (II),
  
  in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und 0, 1, 2 oder 3 Doppelbindungen und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- und/oder Erdalkalimetall, Ammonium, Alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium oder Glucammonium steht, beispielsweise Acylglutamate, die sich von Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten, wie beispielsweise C_12/14- bzw.C_12/18-Kokosfettsäure, Laurinsäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure und/oder Stearinsäure, insbesondere Natrium-N-cocoyl- und Natrium-N-stearoyl-L-glutamat,
• – Ester einer hydroxysubstituierten Di- oder Tricarbonsäure der allgemeinen Formel (III),
  
  in der X = H oder eine -CH₂COOR-Gruppe ist, Y = H oder -OH ist unter der Bedingung, dass Y = H ist, wenn X = -CH₂COOR ist, R, R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetallkation, eine Ammoniumgruppe, das Kation einer ammonium-organischen Base oder einen Rest Z bedeuten, der von einer polyhydroxylierten organischen Verbindung stammt, die aus der Gruppe der verefherten(C₆-C₁₈)-Alkylpolysaccharide mit 1 bis 6 monomeren Saccharideinheiten und/oder der veretherten aliphatischen (C₆-C₁₆)-Hydroxyalkylpolyole mit 2 bis 16 Hydroxylresten ausgewählt sind, unter der Maßgabe, daß wenigstens eine der Gruppen R, R¹ oder R² ein Rest Z ist,
• – Ester des Sulfobernsteinsäure-Salzes der allgemeinen Formel (IV),
  
  in der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetallkation, eine Ammoniumgruppe, das Kation einer ammoniumorganischen Base oder einen Rest Z bedeuten, der von einer polyhydroxylierten organischen Verbindung stammt, die aus der Gruppe der veretherten (C₆-C₁₈)-Alkylpolysaccharide mit 1 bis 6 monomeren Saccharideinheiten und/oder der veretherten aliphatischen(C₆-C₁₈)-Hydroxyalkylpolyole mit 2 bis 16 Hydroxylresten ausgewählt ist, unter der Maßgabe, daß wenigstens eine der Gruppen R¹ oder R² ein Rest Z ist,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Ethoxygruppen,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcosinate mit einem linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und 0, 1, 2 oder 3 Doppelbindungen,
• – Acyltaurate mit einem linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und 0, 1, 2 oder 3 Doppelbindungen,
• – Acylisethionate mit einem linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und 0, 1, 2 oder 3 Doppelbindungen,
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)₂-SO₃X, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, besonders bevorzugt mit 8 – 18 C-Atomen, z = 0 oder 1 bis 12, besonders bevorzugt 3, und X ein Natrium-, Kalium-, Magnesium-, Zink-, Ammoniumion oder ein Monoalkanol-, Dialkanol- oder Trialkanolammoniumion mit 2 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkanolgruppe ist, wobei ein besonders bevorzugtes Beispiel Zinkcocoylethersulfat mit einem Ethoxylierungsgrad von z = 3 ist,
• – Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate gemäß DE-A-37 25 030,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether gemäß DE-A-37 23 354,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen gemäß DE-A-39 26 344,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (V),
  
• – in der R¹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR¹ oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für einen C₁ bis C₄
• – Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel R⁷CO(AlkO)_nSO₃M, in der R⁷CO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Kation steht, wie sie in der DE-OS 197 36 906 .5 beschrieben sind,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (VI),
  
• – in der R⁸CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate der Formel (VI) eingesetzt, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable foaming anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,

• Acylglutamates of the formula (II),
  
  in which R ¹ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium, for example acylglutamates, which are derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as, for example, C _12/14 or C 12/18 _coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid, in particular sodium N-cocoyl and sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate,
• Esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the general formula (III),
  
  wherein X is H or a -CH ₂ COOR group, Y is H or -OH is under the condition that Y is H when X is -CH ₂ COOR, R, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of the (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) -encapsulated alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) -hydroxyalkylpolyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, with the proviso that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z,
• Esters of the sulfosuccinic acid salt of the general formula (IV),
  
  in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another denote a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of etherified (C ₆ -) C ₁₈ ) -alkyl polysaccharides having 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) -hydroxyalkylpolyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, with the proviso that at least one of R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z is,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 ethoxy groups,
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosinates having a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds,
• Acyl taurates having a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds,
• Acyl isethionates having a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds,
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• - Alkylsulfate and Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) ₂ -SO ₃ X, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably having 8 - 18 carbon atoms, z = 0 or 1 to 12, more preferably 3, and X is a sodium, potassium, magnesium, zinc, ammonium or a monoalkanol, dialkanol or Trialkanolammoniumion having 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, with a particularly preferred example of zinc cocoyl ether sulfate with a degree of ethoxylation of z = 3,
• Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030,
• Sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,
• Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (V),
  
• In which R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ¹ or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another for a C ₁ to C ₄
• - hydrocarbon radical, stands,
• Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula R ⁷ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M in which R ^{7 is} CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation as described in the DE-OS 197 36 906 .5 are described,
• Monoglyceride sulphates and monoglyceride ether sulphates of the formula (VI),
  
• - In which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total is 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (VI) in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms are preferably used.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the cosmetic according to the invention Compositions at least one organic or mineral or modified mineral sunscreen. In the sunscreen filters it is liquid or crystalline at room temperature Substances that are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, z. B. heat to give up again. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can used both individually and in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.

The organic UV filters used according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of di benzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomeric and oligomeric 4,4-diarylbutadienecarboxylic acid esters and carboxamides, ketotricyclo (5.2. 1.0) decane, Benzalmalonsäureestern and any mixtures of the above components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. According to the invention particularly oil-soluble UV filters preferred are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4 - (dimethylamino) benzoic acid, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-Methoxzimtsäureisopentylester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylzimtsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexylester, salicylic acid-4-isopropylbenzylester , Salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine (octyl triazone) and dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb ^❑ HEB) and any desired Mixtures of said co mponenten.

preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, Ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, for example, solutions of the UV-A filter 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) in various UV-B Make filters. Therefore, in a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

Furthermore, it has proved to be particularly advantageous that the skin treatment compositions according to the invention comprise at least one protein hydrolyzate or its derivative. Both vegetable and animal protein hydrolysates can be used according to the invention. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolysates, eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ^® (Diamalt) Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda).

At Place of protein hydrolysates can on the one hand, otherwise obtained amino acid mixtures, on the other hand individual amino acids as well as their physiologically compatible Salts are used. The preferred amino acids of the invention include glycine, Serine, threonine, cysteine, asparagine, glutamine, pyroglutamic acid, alanine, Valine, leucine, isoleucine, proline, tryptophan, phenylalanine, methionine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, Lysine, arginine and histidine as well as the zinc salts and the acid addition salts the said amino acids.

Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^{® ®} or Crotein (Croda).

Cationized protein hydrolysates can also be used according to the invention, it being possible for the underlying protein hydrolyzate to originate from the animal, from the plant, from marine life forms or from biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolysates. Preference is given to cationic protein hydrolysates whose protein content on which they are based has a molecular weight of from 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably from 250 to 5,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of inventively used cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives, some are of the INCI - ^th names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and listed on the market: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

In the agents according to the invention are the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives or the amino acids and their derivatives in amounts of 0.01 - 10 wt .-%, based on the total funds included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, In particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

Farther it has proved to be advantageous that the skin treatment compositions according to the invention at least a mono-, oligo- or polysaccharide or their derivatives.

According to the invention suitable Monosaccharides are z. Glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, Ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose and talose, the deoxy sugars fucose and rhamnose, and amino sugars such as As glucosamine or galactosamine. Preference is given to glucose, Fructose, galactose, arabinose and fucose; Glucose is special prefers.

According to the invention suitable Oligosaccharides are composed of two to ten monosaccharide units, z. As sucrose, lactose or trehalose. A particularly preferred Oligosaccharide is sucrose. Also particularly preferred the use of honey, the predominant Contains glucose and sucrose.

Polysaccharides which are suitable according to the invention are composed of more than ten monosaccharide units. Preferred polysaccharides are the starches made from α-D-glucose units and starch degradation products such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins. Particularly advantageous according to the invention are chemically and / or thermally modified starches, for. Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, dihydroxypropyldistarch phosphate or the commercial products Dry ^Flo® . Further preferred are dextrans and their derivatives, eg. B. dextran sulfate. Also preferred are nonionic cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose, as well as cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. , The commercial products Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^®, and preferably Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 (Polyquaternium-10) as well as Polyquaternium-24th Further preferred examples are polysaccharides from fucose units, e.g. B. the commercial product Fucogel ^® . Particularly preferred are the polysaccharides composed of amino sugar units, in particular chitins and their deacetylated derivatives, the chitosans, and mucopolysaccharides. The inventively preferred mucopolysaccharides include hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, e.g. As sodium hyaluronate or Dimethylsilanolhyaluronat, and chondroitin and its derivatives, for. B. chondroitin sulfate.

In In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the skin treatment compositions according to the invention contain at least one film-forming, emulsion-stabilizing, thickening or adhesive Polymer, selected from natural and synthetic polymers that are cationic, anionic, amphoteric charged or non-ionic.

According to the invention preferred are cationic, anionic and nonionic polymers.

Preferred among the cationic polymers are polysiloxanes having quaternary groups, e.g. , The commercial products Q2-7224 (Dow Corning), Dow Corning ^® 929 Emulsion (with amodimethicone), SM-2059 (General Electric), SLM-55067 (Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (Th. Goldschmidt).

preferred anionic polymers which have the effect of the invention used Active ingredient support can, contain carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups and as monomers for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.

The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid. Very particularly preferred anionic polymers contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole monomer or as a comonomer, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly in salt form. Within this embodiment, it is preferred to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid groups wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt available. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound has proven to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching of the invention. Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Further particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ^®. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C _3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydride and 2-20% of optionally substituted acrylic esters of saturated C-carboxylic acids, the copolymer crosslinking with the aforementioned crosslinking agents can be. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^® and Carbopol ^® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).

Suitable nonionic polymers include polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, for. B. the commercial products Mowiol ^® and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidones z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF) are sold.

• – pflanzliche Öle, wie Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls,
• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe, z. B. 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) oder Polydecen,
• – Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt 12 bis 36, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, z. B. Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE), Di-n-n-Hexyl-n-octylether und n-Octyl-n-decylether.
• – Fettsäuren, besonders lineare und/oder verzweigte, gesättigte und/oder ungesättigte C_8–30-Fettsäuren. Bevorzugt sind C_10–22-Fettsäuren. Beispiele sind die Isostearinsäuren und Isopalmitinsäuren wie die unter der Handelsbezeichnung Edenor^® vertriebenen Fettsäuren. Weitere typische Beispiele für solche Fettsäuren sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachidonsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Besonders bevorzugt sind üblicherweise die Fettsäureschnitte, die aus Cocosöl oder Palmöl erhältlich sind; insbesondere bevorzugt ist der Einsatz von Stearinsäure.
• – Fettalkohole, besonders gesättigte, ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigte, verzweigte oder unverzweigte Fettalkohole mit 6–30, bevorzugt 10–22 und ganz besonders bevorzugt 12–22 Kohlenstoffatomen. Einsetzbar im Sinne der Erfindung sind z. B. Decanol, Octanol, Octenol, Dodecenol, Decenol, Octadienol, Dodecadienol, Decadienol, Oleylalkohol, Erucaalkohol, Ricinolalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Arachidylalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Linoleylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol und Behenylalkohol, sowie deren Guerbetalkohole, z. B. 2-Ethylhexanol, wobei diese Aufzählung beispielhaften und nicht limitierenden Charakter haben soll.
• – Esteröle, das heißt, Ester von C_6–30-Fettsäuren mit C_2–30-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Als Alkohol- und Säurekomponenten der Esteröle können die vorstehend genannten Substanzen verwendet werden. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat, Isononansäure-C_16–18-alkylester, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat/-caprylat, n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat, Isopropylpalmitat, Oleyloleat, Laurinsäurehexylester, Di-n-butyladipat, Myristylmyristat, Cetearyl Isononanoate und Ölsäuredecylester.
• – Hydroxycarbonsäurealkylester, wobei die Vollester der Glycolsäure, Milchsäure, Äpfelsäure, Weinsäure oder Citronensäure bevorzugt sind, aber auch Ester der β-Hydroxypropionsäure, der Tartronsäure, der D-Gluconsäure, Zuckersäure, Schleimsäure oder Glucuronsäure geeignet sind und besonders bevorzugt die Ester von C₁₂-C₁₅-Fettalkoholen, z. B. die Handelsprodukte Cosmacol^® der EniChem, Augusta Industriale, sind,
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykoldioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykoldi(2- ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, z. B. Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Mono,- Di- und Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin, z. B. Monomuls^® 90-O18, Monomuls^® 90-L12 oder Cutina^® MD,
• – Wachse, insbesondere Insektenwachse wie Bienenwachs und Hummelwachs, Pflanzenwachse wie Candelillawachs und Carnaubawachs, Fruchtwachse, Ozokerit, Mikrowachs, Ceresin, Paraffin, Triglyceride gesättigter und gegebenenfalls hydroxylierter C_16–30-Fettsäuren, wie z. B. gehärtete Triglyceridfette (hydriertes Palmöl, hydriertes Kokosöl, hydriertes Rizinusöl), Glyceryltribehenat oder Glyceryltri-12-hydroxystearat, synthetische Vollester aus Fettsäuren und Glykolen (z. B. Syncrowachs^®) oder Polyolen mit 2–6 C-Atomen, Ester von gegebenenfalls hydroxylierten C_2–4-Carbonsäuren mit Lanolinalkoholen und C_12–18-Fettalkoholen, Cholesterol- oder Lanosterolester von C_10–30-Fettsäuren, ethoxylierte C_12–20-Fettsäureglykolester, Fettsäuremonoalkanolamide mit einem C_12–22-Acylrest und einem C_2–4-Alkanolrest, synthetische Fettsäure-Fettalkoholestern, z. B. Stearylstearat oder Cetylpalmitat sowie Esterwachse aus natürlichen Fettsäuren und synthetischen C_20–40-Fettalkoholen (INCI-Bezeichnung C20-40 Alkyl Stearate),
• – Siliconverbindungen, ausgewählt aus Decamethylcyclopentasiloxan, Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxan und Siliconpolymeren, die gewünschtenfalls quervernetzt sein können, z. B. Polydialkylsiloxane, Polyalkylarylsiloxane, ethoxylierte Polydialkylsiloxane, bevorzugt die Substanzen mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Dimethicone Copolyol, sowie Polydialkylsiloxane, die Amin- und/oder Hydroxy-Gruppen enthalten.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the effect of the agents according to the invention can be further optimized by fatty substances. Suitable fatty substances are, for example:

• Vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil,
• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, e.g. B. 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S) or polydecene,
• - Di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, for. As di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE), di-nn-hexyl-n-octyl ether and n-octyl-n-decyl ether.
• Fatty acids, especially linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C _8-30 fatty acids. C _10-22 fatty acids are preferred. Examples are the isostearic and isopalmitic such as those sold under the trade name Edenor ^® fatty acids. Other typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuts obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; especially preferred is the use of stearic acid.
• - Fatty alcohols, particularly saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 6-30, preferably 10-22 and most preferably 12-22 carbon atoms. usable in the context of the invention are z. B. decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and their Guerbet alcohols, z. B. 2-ethylhexanol, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
• Ester oils, that is, esters of C _6-30 fatty acids with C _2-30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. As the alcohol and acid components of the ester oils, the above-mentioned substances can be used. Particularly preferred according to the invention are isopropyl myristate, isononanoic acid C _16-18 alkyl esters, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate / caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, hexyl laurate, di-n-butyl butyladipate, myristyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate and oleic acid decyl ester.
• - Hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters, wherein the full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid are preferred, but also esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid are suitable and particularly preferably the esters of C _12th -C ₁₅ fatty alcohols, e.g. B. the commercial products Cosmacol ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale, are,
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), Propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• - Symmetrical, asymmetric or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. As glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• - mono, - di- and tri-fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, z. B. ^® Monomuls 90-O18, Monomuls 90-L12 ^® or Cutina ^® MD,
• Waxes, in particular insect waxes such as beeswax and bumblebee wax, plant waxes such as candelilla wax and carnauba wax, fruit waxes, ozokerite, microwax, ceresin, paraffin, triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C _16-30 fatty acids, such as. B. hydrogenated triglyceride fats (eg. B. Syncrowachs ^®) (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate, synthetic Vollester of fatty acids and glycols or polyols containing 2-6 carbon atoms, esters of optionally hydroxylated C _2-4 carboxylic acids with lanolin alcohols and C _12-18 fatty alcohols, cholesterol or Lanosterol esters of C _10-30 fatty acids, ethoxylated C _12-20 -Fettsäureglykolester, fatty acid monoalkanolamides having a C _12-22 acyl radical and a C _{2 -4} -alkanol radical, synthetic fatty acid fatty alcohol esters, eg. Stearyl stearate or cetyl palmitate and ester waxes of natural fatty acids and synthetic C _20-40 fatty alcohols (INCI name C20-40 alkyl stearates),
• Silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and silicone polymers, which may be crosslinked, if desired, e.g. As polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably the substances with the INCI name dimethicone copolyol, as well as polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups.

The Use amount of fatty substances is 0.1 - 50 % By weight, preferably 0.1-20 % By weight and particularly preferably 0.1-15% by weight, in each case based on the entire remedy.

In a further preferred embodiment contains the skin treatment agent at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid or α-ketocarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form. Suitable α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids are selected from lactic acid, Tartaric acid, Citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and Galacturonic. The esters of the acids mentioned are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, Hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids or their derivatives are in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

• – Vitamine, Provitamine und Vitaminvorstufen aus den Gruppen A, C, E und F, insbesondere 3,4-Didehydroretinol (Vitamin A₂), β-Carotin (Provitamin des Vitamin A₁), Ascorbinsäure (Vitamin C), sowie die Palmitinsäureester, Glucoside oder Phosphate der Ascorbinsäure, Tocopherole, insbesondere α-Tocopherol sowie seine Ester, z. B. das Acetat, das Nicotinat, das Phosphat und das Succinat; weiterhin Vitamin F, worunter essentielle Fettsäuren, besonders Linolsäure, Linolensäure und Arachidonsäure, verstanden werden;
• – Allantoin,
• – Bisabolol,
• – Antioxidantien, zum Beispiel Imidazole (z. B. Urocaninsäure) und deren Derivate, Peptide wie D,L-Carnosin, D-Carnosin, L-Carnosin und deren Derivate (z. B. Anserin), Chlorogensäure und deren Derivate, Liponsäure und deren Derivate (z. B. Dihydroliponsäure), Aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracil und andere Thiole (z. B. Thioredoxin, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N-Acetyl-, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Cholesteryl- und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthiodipropionat, Thiodipropionsäure und deren Derivate (Ester, Ether, Peptide, Lipide, Nukleotide, Nukleoside und Salze) sowie Sulfoximinverbindungen (z. B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Butioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z. B. pmol bis μmol/kg), ferner (Metall)-Chelatoren (z. B. α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitinsäure, Phytinsäure, Lactoferrin), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z. B. γ-Linolensäure, Linolsäure, Ölsäure), Folsäure und deren Derivate, Ubichinon und Ubichinol und deren Derivate, das Koniferylbenzoat des Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure und deren Derivate, α-Glycosylrutin, Ferulasäure, Furfurylidenglucitol, Carnosin, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, Harnsäure und deren Derivate, Katalase, Superoxid-Dismutase, Zink und dessen Derivate (z. B. ZnO, ZnSO₄), Selen und dessen Derivate (z. B. Selen-Methionin), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z. B. Stilbenoxid, trans-Stilbenoxid) und die als Antioxidans geeigneten Derivate (Salze, Ester, Ether, Zucker, Nukleotide, Nukleoside, Peptide und Lipide) dieser Wirkstoffe,
• – Ceramide und Pseudoceramide,
• – Triterpene, insbesondere Triterpensäuren wie Ursolsäure, Rosmarinsäure, Betulinsäure, Boswelliasäure und Bryonolsäure,
• – Monomere Catechine, besonders Catechin und Epicatechin, Leukoanthocyanidine, Catechinpolymere (Catechin-Gerbstoffe) sowie Gallotannine,
• – Verdickungsmittel, z. B. Gelatine, Pflanzengumme wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi oder Johannisbrotkernmehl, natürliche und synthetische Tone und Schichtsilikate, z. B. Bentonit, Hectorit, Montmorillonit oder Laponite^®, vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z. B. Polyvinylalkohol, und außerdem Ca-, Mg- oder Zn-Seifen von Fettsäuren,
• – Pflanzenglycoside,
• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – Dimethylisosorbid,
• – Alpha-, beta- sowie gamma-Cyclodextrine, insbesondere zur Stabilisierung von Retinol,
• – Lösungsmittel, Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Glycerin und Diethylenglykol, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Guanidine, Harnstoffe sowie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate
• – Parfümöle, Pigmente sowie Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Substanzen zur Einstellung des pH-Wertes, z. B. α- und β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere,
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft.

The compositions of the invention may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example:

• Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, C, E and F, in particular 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ), β-carotene (provitamin of vitamin A ₁ ), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and the palmitic acid esters, Glucosides or phosphates of ascorbic acid, tocopherols, in particular α-tocopherol so like its esters, e.g. The acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate; vitamin F, which is understood as meaning essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid;
• - allantoin,
• - bisabolol,
• Antioxidants, for example imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (for example anserine), chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl , Butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts ) and sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, bithine sulfones, penta, hexa, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low compatible dosages (eg pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, Lac toferrin), humic acid, bile acid, biliary extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. Gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, benzylic resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguiaretic acid , Trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, catalase, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ), selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the antioxidant suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these drugs,
• Ceramides and pseudoceramides,
• Triterpenes, in particular triterpenic acids such as ursolic acid, rosmarinic acid, betulinic acid, boswellic acid and bryonolic acid,
• - Monomeric catechins, especially catechin and epicatechin, leucoanthocyanidins, catechin polymers (catechin tannins) and gallotannins,
• - Thickener, z. As gelatin, plant matter such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum or locust bean gum, natural and synthetic clays and phyllosilicates, z. As bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite or Laponite ^® , fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. Polyvinyl alcohol, and also Ca, Mg or Zn soaps of fatty acids,
• - vegetable glycosides,
• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• - dimethyl isosorbide,
• Alpha, beta and gamma cyclodextrins, in particular for the stabilization of retinol,
• - Solvents, swelling and penetrating agents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol and diethylene glycol, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates
• Perfume oils, pigments and dyes for staining the agent,
• - substances for adjusting the pH, z. B. α- and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers,
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

In a preferred embodiment are the skin treatment compositions of the invention in the form of a liquid or solid oil-in-water emulsion, Water-in-oil emulsion, Multiple emulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion or Pickering emulsion, a hydrogel, a lipogel, a mono- or multiphase solution, one Foam, a powder or a mixture with at least one polymer suitable as a medical adhesive. The funds can also in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm become. Here, the carrier a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a Mixture of such oils be.

In a particular embodiment of the agents according to the invention, the agents are present as microemulsions. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood as meaning not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called "PIT" emulsions. These emulsions are systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier, which are present at room temperature as an oil-in-water emulsion. When these systems are heated, microemulsions form in a certain temperature range (referred to as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT"), which on further heating converts to water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. Upon subsequent cooling, O / W emulsions are again NEN, but also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions having an average particle diameter below 400 nm and in particular from about 100-300 nm. According to the invention, those micro- or "PIT" emulsions may be preferred which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm. Details regarding these "PIT emulsions" z. B. the publication Angew. Chem. 97, 655-669 (1985).

In the embodiment according to the invention as an antiperspirant antiperspirant active ingredients may be included. Suitable antiperspirant active compounds according to the invention are water-soluble astringent or protein-coagulating metallic salts, in particular inorganic and organic salts of aluminum, zirconium, zinc and titanium, as well as any mixtures of these salts. Water solubility according to the invention is understood as meaning a solubility of at least 4 g of active substance per 100 g of solution at 20 ° C. For example, alum (KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .12H ₂ O), aluminum sulfate, aluminum lactate, sodium aluminum chlorhydroxactate, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum sulfocarbolate, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate, zinc chloride, zinc sulfocarbolate, zinc sulfate, zirconium chlorohydrate, Aluminum-zirconium-chlorohydrate-glycine complexes and complexes of basic aluminum chlorides with propylene glycol or polyethylene glycol. The liquid active substance preparations preferably comprise an astringent aluminum salt, in particular aluminum chlorohydrate, and / or an aluminum-zirconium compound. Aluminum chlorohydrates, for example, in powder form sold as Micro Dry ^® Ultrafine or in activated form as Reach ^® 501 or Reach ^® 103 from Reheis and in the form of aqueous solutions as Locron ^® L of Clariant ^® or as Chlorhydrol from Reheis. Under the name ^Reach® 301 an aluminum sesquichlorohydrate from Reheis is offered. The use of aluminum-zirconium tri- or tetrachlorohydrex glycine complexes, which are, for example, from Reheis under the name Rezal 36G ^® commercially, according to the invention is particularly advantageous.

Of the antiperspirant Active ingredient is in the compositions of the invention in one Amount of 0.01-40 Wt .-%, preferably 2-30 Wt .-% and especially 5-25 Wt .-%, based on the amount of the active substance in the whole Composition, included.

In the embodiment of the invention as a deodorant Deodorant actives be included. According to the invention as deodorant agents suitable are fragrances, antimicrobial, antibacterial or germ-inhibiting Substances, enzyme-inhibiting substances, antioxidants and odor adsorbents.

Suitable antimicrobial, antibacterial or antimicrobial substances are in particular C ₁ -C ₄ -alkanols, C ₂ -C ₄ -alkanediols, organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a range of plant extracts and zinc compounds.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one water-soluble polyol selected from water-soluble diols, triols and higher-value alcohols and also polyethylene glycols. Among the diols are C ₂ -C ₁₂ diols, in particular 1,2-propylene glycol, butylene glycols such. For example, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentanediols, e.g. As 1,2-pentanediol, and hexanediols, z. For example, 1,6-hexanediol. Further preferred are glycerol and technical Oligoglyceringemische with an intrinsic degree of condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical Diglyceringemische having a Diglycerine content of 40 to 50 wt .-% or triglycerol, further 1,2,6-hexanetriol and polyethylene glycols (PEG) with a average molecular weight of 100 to 1000 daltons, for example PEG-400, PEG-600 or PEG-1000. Other suitable higher alcohols are the C ₄ , C ₅ and C ₆ monosaccharides and the corresponding sugar alcohols, eg. Mannitol or sorbitol.

The Compositions of the invention contain the water-soluble Polyol in amounts of 1-50 Wt .-%, preferably 1-15 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 1-5 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition.

The The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention, without restricting it to this.

embodiments

Example 1: Influence growth of Staphylococcus warneri and Propionibacterium acnes through plant extracts

Rezepturbeispiele

Verwendete Rohstoffe:

From liquid Vorkukulturen of S. warneri and P. acnes were cultures in LB medium with an Op seed density OD (620nm) of 0.05. Parallel to the controls (without addition of cells or extract), 2 cultures each were treated with 1% plant extract and the growth over 30 h was documented by measuring the OD. After 30 h, the difference in the OD of the cultures with added extract to the corresponding controls (without added extract, adjusted for the value without cells) was determined. The extracts of Picea spp. (Spruce: Epica: P. abies syn. P. excelsa and P. glauca), Paullinia cupana (Guiana), Panax ginseng (Ginseng), Lamium album (White Nettle, White nettle) and Ribes nigrum (Blackcurrant, Blackcurrant) growth-promoting effect on S. warneri with concomitant inhibition of P. acnes. The extracts were obtained from Rahn (Germany). Table 1: warn growth effects of various plant extracts on S. and P. acnes (OD differences to control after 30 h)

formulation Examples

Raw materials used:

Claims (26)

Use of prebiotic on the skin effective plant extracts in cosmetic topical skin treatment agents to promote of growth more desirable Skin bacteria. Use according to claim 1, characterized that it is the desired Skin germs around saprophyte skin germs acts. Use according to claim 1, characterized that it is the desired Skin germs are coagulase-negative staphylococci. Use according to claim 3, characterized that the coagulase-negative staphylococci are S. epidermidis or S. warneri acts. Use according to one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized that on the skin is prebiotic effective plant extract at the same time inhibiting the growth of unwanted Skin germs works. Use of skin prebiotic plant extracts in cosmetic topical Skin treatment agents for inhibiting the growth of unwanted skin germs. Use according to claim 6, characterized that it is the unwanted Germs are pathogenic germs. Use according to claim 6 or 7, characterized that it is the unwanted germs are coagulase-positive staphylococci. Use according to claim 6 or 7, characterized that it is the unwanted germs is Propionibacterium acnes. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for the treatment Impure, dry or oily skin. Use according to claim 10 for the treatment of acne. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for the treatment of skin fungi or dandruff. Use of prebiotic plant extracts on the skin for the preparation of topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions to the prebiotic Treatment of the skin. Use according to claim 13, characterized that the prebiotic Effect through the promotion of growth more desirable Germs is effected. Use according to claim 13 or 14, characterized that the prebiotic Effect is caused by the inhibition of the growth of unwanted germs. Use according to one of Claims 1 to 15, characterized that the plant extract is a conifer extract, in particular from the group of Pinaceae, or to an extract from the group Sapindaceae, Araliaceae, Lamiaceae or Saxifragaceae or um Mixtures of these are. Use according to claim 16, characterized that the plant extract is an extract of Picea spp., Paullinia sp., Panax sp., Lamium album or Ribes nigrum or mixtures of it acts. Use according to one of claims 1 to 17, characterized that the skin treatment is preventative he follows. Use according to one of claims 1 to 18, characterized that the plant extract is present in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, containing a prebiotic on the skin effective plant extract. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 20, characterized in that it is a topical Skin treatment agent trades. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 20 or 21, characterized in that it is at the plant extract to a conifer extract, in particular from Group of Pinaceae, or an extract of the group Sapindaceae, Araliaceae, Lamiaceae or Saxifragaceae or mixtures thereof is. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 22, characterized in that it is in the plant extract extract from Picea spp., Paullinia sp., Panax sp., Lamium album or Ribes nigrum or mixtures thereof. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to one of claims 20 to 23, characterized in that it contains at least one further substance selected from at least one of the following groups: - organic, mineral and modified mineral sunscreen filters, - vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors of the vitamin B group or their derivatives, and derivatives of 2-furanone, panthenol, pantolactone, nicotinamide and biotin, - other plant extracts, - MMP-1-inhibiting substances, - esters of retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) with a C _2-18 carboxylic acid. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to one of the claims 20 to 24, characterized in that they at least one more Contains substance, selected from at least one of the following groups: - surface active Substances as emulsifier or dispersant, - Amino acids and their zinc salts and their acid addition salts, - film-making and / or emulsion stabilizing and / or thickening and / or adhesive polymers - fatty substances, Surfactants, anti-perspirants and polyols, - organic, mineral and modified mineral sunscreen filters, - Protein hydrolysates and their derivatives, - Mono-, Oligo- and polysaccharides and their derivatives, - α-hydroxycarboxylic acids and α-ketocarboxylic acids as well their ester, lactone or Salt forms. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to one of the claims 20 to 25, characterized in that in a soap, a Lotion, an emulsion, a spray, a cream, a shampoo or a patch is included.