DE102009026718A1 - Cosmetic non-therapeutic use of at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound, in a topical composition for reducing the pore size of the skin, preferably facial skin - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic non-therapeutic use of at least one fluorocarbon (I) in a topical composition for reducing the pore size of the skin, preferably facial skin, is claimed, where (I): is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound, in which at least 90%, preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms; exhibits no other heteroatoms in the molecule except carbon, fluorine and optional hydrogen; is present as a liquid under normal conditions; and exhibits a molecular weight of 250-700 g/mole.

Description

object In the present application, the use is more selective Fluorocarbons, which under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol in a topical composition for reducing the Pore size of the skin.

The Facial skin should ideally be an even, have a fine-pored appearance without blemishes. Around Achieving this is a regular meticulous exercise Cleaning and care of the skin necessary. In addition, this is subject Appearance of the skin but also numerous internal and external influences, such as metabolic disorders, hormone fluctuations, dietary habits, Sunlight etc. Many people therefore have a rather irregular, characterized by impurities and often at least partially large-pored skin appearance on.

in the The prior art is known aluminum compounds, the astringent act, use. These pull the skin on the surface together and thus create the impression of a small pore in a short time Skin. At the same time, these agents deprive the skin of moisture, Urgent to maintaining a tight and wrinkle poor Skin is needed. Furthermore, compositions are becoming frequent used with a significant proportion of ethanol. The usage of ethanolic compositions but leads in particular in the nachpubertären skin often to one too strong degreasing, unpleasant, exciting skin feeling and to irritation.

It Therefore, there is still the need, big Pores to fight and active ingredients or drug combinations to provide that, free from the disadvantages mentioned are.

In Over the past few years, many cosmetic users, especially in women in the period after puberty until the beginning Menopause, the phenomenon noticeable that the problems with large-pored skin on puberty In addition, at the same time, however, the appearance of skin aging always stronger.

Toiletries, the appearance of skin aging, especially wrinkles, fine lines and (first) wrinkles, but especially the increasing ones Contain loss of skin moisture, treat and soften often a higher proportion of nourishing fats and oils that increase the moisture content of the skin and to improve the elasticity of the skin. These oils and fats, however, worsen the appearance of the skin, which are affected by pimples and blackheads, which are mostly in the so-called T zone (forehead, nose, chin) are settled. Forehead However, it is also particularly of the formation of wrinkles and Wrinkles affected, leaving their treatment with a moisture donating product would actually be mandatory.

State of the art

The use of fluorocarbons as oxygen scavengers in topical cosmetic and medical preparations is known. US 4366169 describes the use of fluorocarbons to treat skin injuries and wounds, especially burns. US 4569784 describes the preparation of a fluorocarbon-containing gel with gas transport properties for application on the skin. EP 296661 A describes a fluorocarbon-containing single-phase system which can act as an isotropic or anisotropic formulation in the cosmetic field and also as a dermatological agent as an oxygen transporter. WO 91/00110 A discloses fluorocarbon emulsions with phospholipids in which the phospholipid has saturated carbon bonds. Out WO 92/06676 A and WO 2005/016309 A1 are oil-filled vesicles or liposomes known whose structure corresponds to the usual vesicle structure. EP 647131 A describes a dermatology for oxygen transport into the skin.

The Use of fluorocarbons to reduce pore size however, the skin is not described in these documents.

task

The object of the present invention was to provide an agent suitable for topical, cosmetic application, which achieves a reduction in the pore size of the skin, without depriving the skin of moisture or irritating it or otherwise burdening it. The disadvantages of the use of known active ingredients, such as aluminum compounds and ethanol, should be avoided. in the In particular, skin intolerances and irritations as well as damage to the skin-positive bacteria in the skin flora should be avoided.

Subject of the application

It has now been found that the application of at least one selected Fluorocarbon to a significant reduction in pore size leads and at the same time extremely well tolerated is.

object The present application is in a first embodiment the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of at least one Fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound represents at least 90% in numbers, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, exceptionally preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol has, in a topical composition for reducing the Pore size of the skin, especially the facial skin.

Under the term "fluorocarbons" as used herein Perfluorinated hydrocarbon compounds understood in which numerically at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, extraordinarily preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, the except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol exhibit. Such fluorocarbons are proven chemically and biologically inert and therefore non-toxic. All information about the states of aggregation of the starting materials used (fixed, liquid ...) in this application refer to normal conditions. "Normal conditions" are For the purposes of the present application, a temperature of 20 ° C. and a pressure of 1013.25 mbar. Melting point data relate also at a pressure of 1013.25 mbar.

Examples of fluorocarbons preferred according to the invention are aliphatic straight-chain and branched fluoroalkanes, mono-, bi-, tri- or tetracyclic and optionally fluoroalkyl-substituted fluorocycloalkanes, bis (perfluoroalkyl) -1,2-ethenes which fulfill the abovementioned conditions, or mixtures thereof. Particular preference is given to perfluorodecaline (both cis-perfluorodecalin and trans-perfluorodecalin, as well as mixtures of these isomers, in particular the racemate, bis-perfluoro (n-butyl) -1,2-ethene (both (E) -bis-perfluoro (n-) butyl) -1,2-ethene and (Z) bis-perfluoro (n-butyl) -1,2-ethene, as well as mixtures of these isomers, in particular the racemate) and bis-perfluoro (n-hexyl) -1, 2-ethene (C ₁₄ H ₂ F ₂₆ , molecular weight 664.124 g / mol, both (E) -bis-perfluoro (n-hexyl) -1,2-ethene and (Z) -bis-perfluoro (n-hexyl) 1,2-ethene and also mixtures of these isomers, in particular the racemate), C ₆ -C ₉ perfluoroalkanes, among these particularly preferably perfluorohexanes, perfluoroheptanes, perfluorooctanes and perfluoromonanes, very preferably perfluoro-n-hexane, perfluoro-n-heptane, Perfluoro-n-octane and perfluoro-n-nonane Cis-perfluorodecalin and trans-perfluorodecaline (C ₁₀ F ₁₈ , molecular weight 462 g / mol) are particularly preferred according to the invention, and in particular mixtures of cis-perfluorodecalin and trans Perfluorodecalin, especially the racemate.

Another inventively preferred fluorocarbon is Perfluoroperhydrofluoranthren (C ₁₆ F ₂₆ , molecular weight 686.13 g / mol). Perfluoroperhydrofluoroanthren has the following structure:

Another preferred fluorocarbon according to the invention is perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene (C ₁₄ F ₂₄ , molecular weight 624.11 g / mol). Perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene has the following structure:

Further fluorocarbons preferred according to the invention are selected from perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexanes (C ₈ F ₁₆ , molecular weight 400.06 g / mol, in each case cis and trans isomer and mixtures thereof), perfluoromethyldecalin (1,1,2,2 , 3,3,4,4,4a, 5,5,6,6,7,7,8,8a-heptadecafluoro-8- (trifluoromethyl) naphthalenes, C ₁₁ F ₂₀ , molecular weight 512 g / mol, in each case cis and trans isomer and mixtures thereof), perfluoroisopropyl decalin (1,1,2,2,3,3,4,4,4a, 5,5,6,6,7,7,8,8a-heptadecafluoro-8- ( heptafluoropropan-2-yl) naphthalenes, C ₁₃ F ₂₄ , molecular weight 612 g / mol, in each case cis- and trans-isomer and mixtures thereof) and perfluoro-n-butyldecalin (1,1,2,2,3,3,4 , 4,4a, 5,5,6,6,7,7,8,8a-heptadecafluoro-8- (nonafluoro-n-butyl) naphthalenes, C ₁₄ F ₂₆ , molecular weight 662 g / mol, in each case cis- and trans Isomer and mixtures thereof).

A According to the invention preferred cosmetic, non-therapeutic Use to reduce the pore size of the Skin is characterized in that the total amount of at least a fluorocarbon which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound represents, in the number of at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, extraordinary preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol in the topical composition 0.01-2% by weight, more preferably 0.02-1 wt.%, extremely preferably 0.05-0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the topical composition.

A further according to the invention preferred cosmetic, non-therapeutic use for reducing pore size the skin is characterized in that the at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound the number of at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, extraordinarily preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid is present and has a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol, Enriched with gaseous oxygen, preferably with saturated gaseous oxygen is.

The Oxygen-dissolving properties of the invention used Fluorocarbons are also advantageous for the article of the present application, the use for reducing the Pore size of the skin, harness it. Without this Wanting to be bound theory, it is believed that the supply improved dissolved in fluorocarbon oxygen Skin breathing allowed even with less open pores.

A further according to the invention preferred cosmetic, non-therapeutic use for reducing pore size the skin is characterized in that the at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound the number of at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, extraordinarily preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid is present and has a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol, is enclosed in liposomes or vesicles.

These preferred embodiment is particularly advantageous if the at least one fluorocarbon with gaseous oxygen enriched, preferably saturated with gaseous oxygen, is.

In a further, particularly preferred embodiment according to the invention are the liposomes or vesicle-forming substances selected from phospholipids, sphingolipids, glycosphingolipids, ethoxylated mono-, di- or triesters of glycerol with at least one C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ carboxylic acid, and mixtures of these substances.

In a further embodiment which is particularly preferred according to the invention, the liposomes or vesicles comprise at least one ethoxylated mono-, di- or triester of glycerol with at least one C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ -carboxylic acid having 20 to 120, preferably 40 to 100, particularly preferably 60 to 90 , extraordinary preferably 75 to 80 ethylene oxide units per molecule. Such Vesikelbildner have as encapsulating material for fluorocarbons particularly good manufacturing and performance properties. Another inventively preferred cosmetic, non-therapeutic use for reducing the pore size of the skin is characterized in that the enclosed by the liposomes or vesicles oil phase at least 50 wt .-%, preferably at least 70 wt .-%, of at least one fluorocarbon, the perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound in which at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, most preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, which apart from C, F and optionally H has no further heteroatoms in the molecule under normal conditions is present as a liquid and has a molecular weight of 250-700 g / mol, wherein the amount is based on the total weight of the enclosed by the liposomes or vesicles oil phase.

The pore size reducing effect of the fluorocarbons used in the present invention can be further enhanced by at least one sebum regulating agent. Sebum regulating active substances which are preferred according to the invention are selected from azelaic acid, azelaic acid derivatives, in particular the azelaic acid derivative Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, which is available, for example, as a commercial product Azeloglicina from Sinerga, sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-decanediol, mixtures of sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid and 1,10-decanediol, such as are available in the acinar acid series commercial products of Vincience, glycyrrhizin, also referred to as glycyrrhizic acid or glycyrrhetinic glycoside, which is 2-beta-glucuronido-alpha-glucuronide of glycyrrhetinic acid, and salts thereof , Tannic acid and its salts, gallotannins, naringin, mixtures of glycyrrhizin (salts), tannic acid (salts) and / or gallotannins and naringin, as are available, for example, as a commercial product BiSCos Glynarin PF from Biesterfeld. Also gallotannin-containing water or oil-soluble extracts of plants such as Spiraea ulmaria, as z. As in the product of the company Silab Seboregul are included, hamamelis, burdock root, nettle, cinnamon tree (from the latter z. B. in the product Sepicontrol A5 ^® by the company SEPPIC included), chrysanthemums (z. B. Laricyl ^®, ex Laboratoires Serobiologiques) are Sebum-regulating agents which are preferred according to the invention and which can improve the pore-size-reducing action of the fluorocarbons used according to the invention to a synergistic extent.

A Particularly preferably used according to the invention the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and sebacic acid. Another Particularly preferably used according to the invention the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and 10-hydroxydecanoic acid. A further particularly preferably used according to the invention, the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and 1,10-decanediol. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Combination of active ingredients includes perfluorodecalin, sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid and 1,10-decanediol. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and azelaic acid. Another invention particularly preferred used pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and glycyrrhizin. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and glycyrrhetinic acid. Another invention particularly preferred used pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and gallotannins. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and naringin. A further particularly preferably used according to the invention, the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin, gallotannins and naringin.

Also Hefeproteinhydrolysate are inventively preferred sebum regulating agents that can improve the pore size reducing effect of the fluorocarbons used in the invention in a synergistic measure. Preferred yeast protein hydrolysates according to the invention are e.g. B. contained ^® series, ex Laboratoires Serobiologiques in the commercial products the Asebiol, particularly Asebiol ^® LS 2539 BT 2 (INCI: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, glycerol, panthenol, allantoin, biotin) and Asebiol ^® LS 2539 BT ( Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Panthenol, Propylene Glycol, Allantoin, Disodium Azelate, Biotin). A pore size-reducing active ingredient combination used particularly preferably according to the invention comprises perfluorodecalin and yeast protein hydrolysates.

The compound PEG-8 isolauryl thioether is a sebum-regulating active substance which is preferred according to the invention and which can synergistically improve the pore-size-reducing action of the fluorocarbons used according to the invention. A present invention preferred dosage form of PEG-8 Isolauryl thioether is z. For example, in the commercial product "Antifettfaktor ^® COS-218/2-A" from Cosmetochem included (INCI: Aqua, Cetyl-PCA, PEG-8 Isolauryl thioether, PCA, Cetyl Alcohol). An invention particularly Preferably, the pore size reducing drug combination comprises perfluorodecalin and PEG-8 isolauryl thioether.

A According to the invention preferred cosmetic, non-therapeutic Use to reduce the pore size of the Skin is characterized in that at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound the number of at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, extraordinarily preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol and at least one sebum regulatory agent from azelaic acid, azelaic acid derivatives, sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-decanediol, mixtures of sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid and 1,10-decanediol, glycyrrhizin, Glycyrrhetinic acid, tannic acid, gallotannins, naringin, Yeast protein hydrolysates and PEG-8 isolauryl thioethers is.

A According to the invention preferred cosmetic, non-therapeutic Use to reduce the pore size of the Skin is characterized in that the total amount of at least a sebum-regulating active ingredient 0.001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01-2 wt%, and more preferably 0.1-1 wt%, respectively based on the total composition.

A further according to the invention preferred cosmetic, non-therapeutic use for reducing pore size The skin is characterized in that the total amount of at least a fluorocarbon which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound represents at least 90% in numbers, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, exceptionally preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol in the topical composition 0.01-2% by weight, more preferably 0.02-1 wt.%, extremely preferably 0.05-0.5 wt .-%, and the total amount of the at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient 0.001-5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.01-2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1-1 wt .-%, in each case based on the Total weight of the topical composition.

The Pore size reducing effect of the invention used Fluorocarbons can be further enhanced by at least one Filler, in particular by at least one sebum absorbing Filler.

Preferred fillers according to the invention are selected from inorganic and organic cosmetic adsorbents having number-average particle diameters of 0.1-100 .mu.m, preferably 0.5-50 .mu.m, particularly preferably 5-30 .mu.m and extraordinarily preferably 10-25 .mu.m. Particularly preferred inorganic adsorbents are selected from silicas, particularly Aerosil ^® grades, silica gels, silica, clays and layered silicates, in particular bentonite or kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicates, in particular talc, titanium dioxide and boron nitride, and mixtures of said substances. Particularly preferred organic adsorbents are selected from starches and starch derivatives which may be chemically and / or physically modified, in particular hydrophobically modified octenyl succinate starch derivatives, for example, aluminum starch octenyl succinate or sodium starch octenyl succinate, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin derivatives, especially sodium C _8-16 isoalkyl succinyl lactoglobulin sulfonate, e.g. B. available as a commercial product Biopol ^® OE Brooks Industries, polymer powders of polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyamides, polyesters, polystyrenes, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polymethyl methacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, Teflon or silicones , Wherein said polymer powders may be crosslinked in a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, and mixtures of said substances.

According to preferred polymer powders based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are z. B. as a commercial product Polytrap ^® 6603 (Dow Corning) available. Other inventively preferred polymer powder, eg. Example based on polyamides, obtainable under the name Orgasol ^® 1002 (polyamide-6) and Orgasol ^® 2002 (polyamide-12) from Elf Atochem. Further according to the invention particularly preferred polymer powders are crosslinked polymethacrylates (Micro Pearl ^® M from SEPPIC or Plastic Powder A of NIKKOL), cross-linked polymethyl (Micro Pearl ^® M 305 and Micro Pearl ^® M 310 from SEPPIC), styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (e.g., B. Plastic Powder FP (of NIKKOL), polyethylene and polypropylene powder z. B. ACCUREL EP 400 ^® (ex AKZO) or silicone polymers z. B. silicone powder X2-1605 from Dow Corning).

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the particulate, sebumsorbie on the surface of the filler. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the particulate, sebumsorbierende filler has hemispherical particles, more preferably at least 50 wt .-% of the particles are hemispherical. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the particulate, sebumsorbierende filler has hemispherical particles with cavities on the surface; more preferably at least 50% by weight of the particles are hemispherical with cavities at the surface. Particularly preferred particulate, sebumsorbierende fillers are crosslinked polymethyl methacrylates with average particle diameters of 5-50 microns, in particular the commercial products Micropearl ^® M 305 and Micropearl ^® M 310 from SEPPIC. Extremely preferred fillers are cross-linked polymethylmethacrylates with number average particle diameters of 5-50 .mu.m comprising hemispherical particles with cavities at the surface, more preferably at least 50 wt .-% of the particles are hemispherical with cavities on the surface, in particular the commercial product Micropearl ^® M 310 from SEPPIC.

A According to the invention preferred cosmetic, non-therapeutic Use to reduce the pore size of the Skin is characterized in that the total amount of at least a filler 0.5-7 wt .-%, preferably 1-4 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 1.5-2.7 wt .-%, in each case based on the total topical composition.

An inventively preferred cosmetic, non-therapeutic use for reducing the pore size of the skin is characterized in that at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound, in the numerically at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, exceptionally preferred 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, which apart from C, F and optionally H has no further heteroatoms in the molecule, is present under normal conditions as a liquid and has a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol, and at least one filler selected from Silicas, silica gels, silica, clays, layer silicates, in particular bentonites or kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicates, in particular talc, titanium dioxide, boron nitride, starches and starch derivatives, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin derivatives, in particular sodium C _8-15 isoalkylsuccinyl lactoglobulin sulfonate, polymer powders of polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyamides, polyesters, polystyrenes, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polymethylmethacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, Teflon or silicones, and also mixtures of the substances mentioned.

A Particularly preferably used according to the invention the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and silica. Another Particularly preferably used according to the invention the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and silica gel. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Active ingredient combination includes perfluorodecalin and at least one Volume. Another invention particularly preferred used pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and at least one layered silicate. A further particularly preferably used according to the invention, the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and talc. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Active ingredient combination includes perfluorodecalin and titanium dioxide. A further particularly preferably used according to the invention, the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and starch. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Drug combination includes perfluorodecaline and aluminum starch octenylsuccinate. Another invention particularly preferred used pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and sodium starch octenylsuccinate. Another invention particularly preferred used pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and cellulose powder. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and polymethylmethacrylate.

The pore-size reducing effect of the fluorocarbons used according to the invention can be further increased by at least one skin-soothing active ingredient. Skin-soothing active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from allantoin, α-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, pentacyclic triterpenic acids, in particular, asiatic acid, 6-hydroxyazoic acid (madecassia acid), betulinic acid and planic acid, as well as the sugar esters of these pentacyclic triterpenic acids, which extracts in particular from Centella asiatica (aquatic forage) can be (see US 7402669 B2 ), Mixtures of cereal waxes, shea butter and Argania Spinosa oil with the INCI name "Spent grain wax and Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil", as z. B. under the trade name Stimu-Tex AS available from the company Pentapharm, algin hydrolyzates, as described, for. B. under the trade name phycosaccharides, especially phycosaccharides Al, available from the company Codif, the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, especially sodium beta-sitosterol sulfate, e.g. B. under the trade name Phytocohesine (INCI: Sodium Beta Sitosterylsulfate) from the company Vincience is available, aminodicarboxylic acids having a C chain length of 3-6 carbon atoms and their physiologically acceptable salts, preferably selected from aminomalonic, aminosuccinic (= aspartic acid), aminoglutaric and aminoadipic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts such as potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate, as well as any mixtures of these substances.

A According to the invention preferred cosmetic, non-therapeutic Use to reduce the pore size of the Skin is characterized in that the total amount of at least a skin-soothing active ingredient 0.001-5% by weight, especially preferably 0.01-2 wt%, and more preferably 0.08-0.7 Wt .-%, is, in each case based on the total topical Composition.

A Particularly preferably used according to the invention the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and allantoin. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and α-bisabolol. Another invention particularly preferred used pore size reducing drug combination Perfluorodecalin and α-lipoic acid. Another Particularly preferably used according to the invention Pore size reducing drug combination includes Perfluorodecalin and at least one pentacyclic triterpenic acid. Another invention particularly preferred used pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and at least one sugar ester of a pentacyclic triterpenic acid. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Active ingredient combination includes perfluorodecalin and asiatic acid or asiatic acid sugar ester. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Drug combination includes perfluorodecaline and 6-hydroxyazoic acid (Madecassia acid) or 6-hydroxyacetic acid sugar esters (Madecassiasäure-Zuckerester). Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and betulinic acid. Another invention particularly preferred used pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and plananoic acid. Another Particularly preferably used according to the invention the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and at least one algin hydrolyzate. A further particularly preferably used according to the invention, the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and at least one physiologically acceptable Salt of a sterol sulfate. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and sodium beta-sitosteryl sulfate. Another invention particularly preferred used pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and at least one amino dicarboxylic acid with a C chain length of 3-6 carbon atoms or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof. Another Particularly preferably used according to the invention the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and aspartic acid.

(UREA) in der R₁, R₂, R₃ und R₄ unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, n-Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, sek.-Butyl-, tert. Butyl- oder C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1–5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, stehen, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R₁-R₄ eine C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1–5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, darstellt, insbesondere (2-Hydroxyethyl)harnstoff und N,N'-Bis(2-hydroxyethyl)harnstoff, weiterhin ausgewählt aus Betain (Me₃N⁺-CH₂-COO^–), Glycosaminoglycanen, besonders bevorzugt Hyaluronsäure, Dextran, Dextransulfat, Chondroitin-4-sulfat und Chondroitin-6-sulfat, sowie beliebigen Mischungen dieser Substanzen. N,N'-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)harnstoff, bei Raumtemperatur ein kristalliner Feststoff, ist beispielsweise als Handelsprodukt Hydrovance der National Starch and Chemical Company als ca. 45–55%ige wässrige Lösung mit einem Gehalt an Harnstoff und Ammoniumlactat erhältlich.The pore size reducing effect of the fluorocarbons used in the invention can be further enhanced by at least one moisturizing agent. According to the invention preferred moisturizing agents are selected from deoxy sugars, particularly preferably rhamnose and fucose, polysaccharides containing a deoxy-block at least, more preferably from polysaccharides having the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-1, for example, available as a commercial product Fucogel ^® from Solabia, polysaccharides the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2, for example, available as a commercial product Rhamnosoft ^® from Solabia, polysaccharides with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-3, for example, available as a commercial product Fucogenol ^® from Solabia, and polysaccharides having the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4, available, for example, as a commercial product Glycofilm ^® from Solabia, furthermore mixtures of the abovementioned polysaccharides containing at least one deoxy sugar building block, for example the mixture of biosaccharides Gum-2 and biosaccharides Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol p lus ^® from Solabia, further selected from urea, further selected from alkyl or hydroxyalkyl-substituted ureas of the general formula (UREA)

(UREA) in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1-5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ -R _{4 is} C; C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1-5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, especially (2-hydroxyethyl) urea and N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea , further selected from betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^- ), glycosaminoglycans, more preferably hyaluronic acid, dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin 6-sulfate, and any mixtures of these substances. N, N'-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, a crystalline solid at room temperature, is available, for example, as a Hydrovance commercial product from National Starch and Chemical Company as an approximately 45-55% aqueous solution containing urea and ammonium lactate.

A According to the invention preferred cosmetic, non-therapeutic Use to reduce the pore size of the Skin is characterized in that the total amount of at least a moisturizing agent 0.001-10% by weight, more preferably 0.01-5% by weight and exceptionally preferred 0.1-1 or 2 wt .-%, each based on the total topical Composition, is.

A pore size-reducing active ingredient combination used particularly preferably according to the invention comprises perfluorodecalin and N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea. Another pore size-reducing active ingredient combination used particularly preferably according to the invention comprises perfluorodecalin and biosaccharide Gum-1. Another pore size-reducing active ingredient combination used particularly preferably according to the invention comprises perfluorodecalin and betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^- ). Another pore size-reducing active ingredient combination used particularly preferably according to the invention comprises perfluorodecalin and hyaluronic acid.

The Pore size reducing effect of the invention used Fluorocarbons can be further enhanced by at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or its ester, lactone or salt form.

According to the invention preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids are glycolic acid, lactic acid, Tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, Mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, Erythraric, threaric, glucaric, Galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, Pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are Lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. The esters of the acids mentioned are preferably selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, Isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, Decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters.

A According to the invention preferred cosmetic, non-therapeutic Use to reduce the pore size of the Skin is characterized in that the total amount of at least an α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid and / or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or its ester, Lactone or salt, in a total amount of 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.1-5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5-1-2 Wt .-%, each based on the total topical composition, is.

A Particularly preferably used according to the invention the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and lactic acid. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and citric acid. A further particularly preferably used according to the invention, the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and glycolic acid. Another Particularly preferably used according to the invention the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and gluconic acid. Another Particularly preferably used according to the invention the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and salicylic acid.

The Pore size reducing effect of the invention used Fluorocarbons can be further increased by at least one Polyphenol.

According to the invention, polyphenols are aromatic compounds which contain at least two phenolic hydroxyl groups in the molecule. These include the three dihydroxybenzenes catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, phloroglucin, pyrogallol and hexahydroxybenzene. In nature tre free and etherified polyphenols, for example, in flower dyes (anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acyl polyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives. Preferred polyphenols are catechins, usnic acid and, as tannins, the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and digalloylgallic acid. Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechins, ie the derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, ie the derivatives of leucoanthocyanidins which preferably carry phenolic hydroxyl groups in the 5,7,3 ', 4', 5 'position, preferably epicatechin and epigallocatechin, as well as the tannins resulting from self-condensation. Such tannins are preferably not used in isolated pure substance, but as extracts of tanning-rich plant parts, eg. Extracts of catechu, quebracho, oak bark and pine bark, as well as other tree bark, leaves of green tea (camellia sinensis) and mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins. Further particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredients are aqueous-glycolic or glycolic or ethanolic or aqueous-ethanolic extracts of red wine or of the ground kernels and / or shells of grapes.

One particularly preferred polyphenol rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Sepivinol R, an extract of red wine, available from the company Seppic. Another particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Crodarom Chardonnay L, an extract from the kernels of the Chardonnay grape, available from the company Croda.

A According to the invention preferred cosmetic, non-therapeutic Use to reduce the pore size of the Skin is characterized in that the total amount of at least a polyphenol 0.001-5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.005-1 Wt .-% and most preferably 0.01-0.5 Wt .-%, each based on the total topical composition, is.

A Particularly preferably used according to the invention the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and epicatechin. Another fiction, especially according to preferably used, the pore size reducing Drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and epigallocatechin. A further particularly preferably used according to the invention, the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and catechins. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and tannins.

The Pore size reducing effect of the invention used Fluorocarbons can be further increased by at least one Flavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid.

The According to the invention, preferred flavonoids include the glycosides of flavones, flavanones, 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols) and the aurone. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected of naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, Neohesperidin, hesperidin, hesperetin, rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, Quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), Monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-Tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), Eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside). Extraordinarily preferred according to the invention Flavonoids are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside.

Also preferred are the biflavonoids composed of two flavonoid units, the z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

A According to the invention preferred cosmetic, non-therapeutic Use to reduce the pore size of the Skin is characterized in that the total amount of at least a flavonoid 0.0001-0.5 wt%, preferably 0.0005-0.1 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01 to 0.05 wt .-%, each based to the flavonoid-active substance in the whole topical composition, is.

A Particularly preferably used according to the invention the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and α-glucosylrutin. Another Particularly preferably used according to the invention the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and naringin. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and apigenin-7-glucoside.

The isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted at this point as isoflavonoids. U.N For the purposes of the present invention, isoflavones are substances which represent hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, hydrogenation of which may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation under Formation of a carbonyl group in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.

In the inventively preferred isoflavone glycosides are the isoflavones over at least one hydroxy group linked glycosidically with at least one sugar. When Sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, especially D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.

According to the invention it is preferred if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides as Constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a herbal extract, in the preparations are included. Such vegetable substance mixtures can in the skilled person, for example, by squeezing or extract from plants such as soy, red clover or chickpeas be won. Particular preference is given in the inventive Preparations isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of Soy extracts are used as they are, for example the product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) available commercially are. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline of Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, Phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural Waxes.

A According to the invention preferred cosmetic, non-therapeutic Use to reduce the pore size of the Skin is characterized in that the total amount of at least an isoflavonoid 0.00001-0.5 wt%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.1 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%, respectively based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire topical Composition, is.

A Particularly preferably used according to the invention the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and daidzein. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and genistein. A further particularly preferably used according to the invention, the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and daidzin. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and genistin.

The pore size reducing effect of the fluorocarbons used in the invention can be further enhanced by at least one antimicrobial agent. Particularly preferred antimicrobial or antimicrobial agents according to the invention are organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a number of plant extracts and zinc compounds. These include triclosan, chlorhexidine and chlorhexidine gluconate, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, bromochlorophene, dichlorophen, chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, hexachlorophene, dichloro-m-xylenol, dequalinium chloride, domiphenbromide, ammonium phenolsulfonate, benzalkonium halides, benzalkonium cetyl phosphate, benzalkonium saccharinates, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, Laurylpyridinium chloride, laurylisoquinolinium bromide, methylbenzedonium chloride. Furthermore, phenol, phenoxyethanol, disodium dihydroxyethylsulfosuccinylundecylenate, sodium bicarbonate, zinc lactate, sodium phenolsulfonate and zinc phenolsulfonate, ketoglutaric acid, terpene alcohols such as. As farnesol, chlorophyllin copper complexes, alpha-monoalkyl glycerol ether with a branched or linear saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl, particularly preferably alpha- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol, commercially available as Sensiva ^® SC 50 (ex Schülke & Mayr), carboxylic acid esters of mono-, di- and triglycerol (eg glycerol monolaurate, diglycerol monocaprinate) as well as lantibiotics. Further preferred antimicrobial or germ-inhibiting active substances are selected from so-called prebiotically active components, which according to the invention are understood to mean those components which inhibit only or at least predominantly the acne, pimples or blackhead causing germs of the skin microflora, but not the desired, that is, not the Acne, pimple or blackhead causing germs belonging to a healthy skin microflora. Explicitly here are the active substances, which are in the publications DE 10333245 and DE 10 2004 011 968 are disclosed as prebiotic effective, with a based; these include conifer extracts, in particular from the group of Pinaceae, in particular Pinus sylvestris and in particular from the bark of Pinus sylvestris, and plant extracts from the group of Sapindaceae, Araliaceae, Lamiaceae and Saxifragaceae, in particular extracts from Picea spp., Paullinia sp., Panax sp., Lamium album or Ribes nigrum, in particular from the leaves of Ribes nigrum, and mixtures of these substances.

A According to the invention preferred cosmetic, non-therapeutic Use to reduce the pore size of the Skin is characterized in that the total amount of at least an antimicrobial agent 0.0001-3 wt .-%, preferably 0.001-2% by weight, especially 0.01-1% by weight, especially preferably 0.05-0.8% by weight, most preferably 0.1-0.5 wt .-%, contained.

A Particularly preferably used according to the invention the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and alpha- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ether. Another invention particularly preferred used pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and at least one prebiotic effective extract from the bark of Pinus sylvestris. Another Particularly preferably used according to the invention the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and at least one prebiotic effective extract from the leaves of Ribes nigrum. Another Particularly preferably used according to the invention the pore size reducing drug combination includes perfluorodecalin and at least one prebiotic effective extract of ginseng. Another invention especially preferably used, the pore size reducing Drug combination includes perfluorodecalin, at least one prebiotic extract from the bark of Pinus sylvestris, at least a prebiotic extract from the leaves of Ribes nigrum and at least one prebiotic active Ginseng extract.

The Compositions according to the invention can Other ingredients of cosmetics include those described below become.

According to one preferred embodiment, the fluorocarbon is combined with at least one skin aging retarding agent, especially a vitamin or a peptide.

The retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) belongs together with the 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ) to the group of substances called vitamin A. The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are free of these substances, ie they contain neither retinol, nor 3,4-didehydroretinol, nor beta-carotene, nor vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as Palmitate and the acetate.

• – Vitamin B₁ (Thiamin)
• – Vitamin B₂ (Riboflavin)
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäß verwendetenen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure, Panthenol und Pantolacton). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie die in der WO 92/13829 offenbarten kationischen Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05–10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,1–5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.
• – Vitamin B₆, wobei man hierunter keine einheitliche Substanz, sondern die unter den Trivialnamen Pyridoxin, Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal bekannten Derivate des 5-Hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols versteht. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Vitamin B₆-Komponente in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Vitamin B₇ (Biotin), auch als Vitamin H oder ”Hautvitamin” bezeichnet. Bei Biotin handelt es sich um (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Biotin und den Biotinestern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Folsäure (Vitamin B₉, Vitamin B_c). Internationaler Freiname für N-[4-(2-Amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino)-benzoyl]-L-glutaminsäure (N-Pteroyl-L-glutaminsäure, PteGlu). Folat wird synonym zu Pteroylglutamat gebraucht, Folate ist der Sammelbegriff für alle Folsäure-wirksamen Verbindungen und bezeichnet eine Substanzklasse, die einen mit 4-Aminobenzoesäure und L-Glutaminsäure verbundenen Pteridin-Ring enthält. Folsäure ist ein Wachstumsfaktor für verschiedene Mikroorganismen und eine Verbindung mit Vitamincharakter, die in der Natur meist als Polyglutamat und in reduzierter Form (7,8-Dihydrofolsäure, H₂Folat, DHF; Tetrahydrofolsäure, H₄Folat, THF; 5'-Methyl-Tetrahydrofolsäure, CH₃-H₄Folat, MeTHF) vorkommt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Folsäure, Folaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01 bis 0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.
• – Orotsäure (Vitamin B₁₃, 1,2,3,6-Tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidin-carbonsäure, Uracil-6-carbonsäure, Molkensäure). Orotsäure, ihr Cholinester oder Orotsäure-Metallsalze (Orotate von Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) sind erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Orotsäure, Orotaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001–1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01–0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.

Another group of preferred ingredients of the cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors, wherein - as described above - retinol is preferably not included. These are described below:
The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
• - Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example the Panthenoltriacetat, the Panthenolmonoethylether and its monoacetate as well as in the WO 92/13829 disclosed cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
• - Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin B ₆ component in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid. According to the invention be particularly Preferred compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from biotin and the biotin esters, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.
• - Folic acid (Vitamin B ₉ , Vitamin B _c ). International generic name for N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid (N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu). Folate is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate, folate is the generic term for all folic acid-active compounds and refers to a class of compounds containing a 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic connected pteridine ring. Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a compound of vitamin character, which is usually found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H ₂ folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H ₄ folate, THF, 5'-methyl). Tetrahydrofolic acid, CH ₃ -H ₄ folate, MeTHF). Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.
• - Orotic acid (vitamin B ₁₃ , 1,2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid). Orotic acid, its choline ester or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.

vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate are in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is commonly used essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, Linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, understood.

In summary are cosmetic or dermatological according to the invention Preferred are compositions containing vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors which are assigned to the groups B, C, E and F, where preferred compositions in amounts of said compounds from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.25 to 4 wt .-% and in particular from 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least a substance selected from the group consisting of Biotin, biotin esters, folic acid and folic acid esters, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention therefore additionally contain at least one further cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerated salts of these substances , as well as mixtures of these agents.

The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, desmosine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, Hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, series, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, Sodium decanoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium cetoyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, series, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate. The C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents.

With the aforementioned C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radicals, the amino acids which carry an OH group may also be esterified to this OH group. A preferred example of this according to the invention is hydroxyproline, which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residues, more preferably dipal mitoylhydroxyproline, z. B. Sepilift DPHP available from the company Seppic.

The Physiologically acceptable salts of the invention preferred Amino acids or amino acid derivatives are preferred selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, Calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Especially preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

According to the invention, amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2-30, preferably 2-15, amino acids. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Many of these Aminosäureoligo mers stimulate the collagen synthesis or are able to recruit immune cells, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then on the release of growth factors repair processes in the tissue, eg. B. Collagen synthesis, induce, or are able to bind to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus active TGF-β (tissue growth factor), the synthesis of collagen in dermal Fibroblasts induced to release. Such amino acid oligomers are preferably used as anti-aging agents.

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val- Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-β-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester (e.g., Calmosensine from Sederma), carnosine (β-Ala-His). His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" from GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component of the product Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma. The tripeptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as a copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) and is available as such from ProCyte Corporation. Furthermore, analogues of Gly-His-Lys can be used, wherein a maximum of two amino acids are substituted by suitable other amino acids. For the substitution of Gly, Ala, Leu and Ile are suitable according to the invention. The inventively preferred amino acids that can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom that is predominantly charged at pH 6, eg. Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine. Most preferably, Lys is replaced by Arg, Orn or citrulline. A further preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, which, for. B. available under the name Collasyn 314-GR from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.; Further preferred tripeptides according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Val-Dab-OH, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-OH, Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Val. Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys-Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys, Palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. As sold by the company Pentapharm under the name ^® SYN -COLL, Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (Tripeptide-2), Tripeptide-4 (z. His-Ala-Orn, Gly-Asp-Ser, N-Elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys, N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ , palmitoyl-Lys-Val -Lys-OH, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Orn-OH, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-OMe, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-O-octyl, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-OCetyl, palmitoyl-Lys-Val -Dab-NH ₂ , palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-NHButyl, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-N (butyl) ₂ , palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-NHOctyl, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-N ( Octyl) ₂ , palmitoyl-Lys-Val-dab-NH-cetyl, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-N (cetyl) ₂ palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dap-OH, His-Gly-Gly (also referred to as lamin), Gly -Gly-His and Gly-His-Gly.

Preferred according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are selected from Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT Tetrapepti the. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, z. B. is available under the name Eyeliss of Sederma, but also forms part of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma. The Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are rearranged and / or in which a maximum of two amino acids are substituted to Rigin, z. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a Pro or Arg, and more preferably, the Tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary. The substituting amino acids can be selected from any amino acid defined below. Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapetides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa , Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids, and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids that can substitute Gly, Xbb is selected from Gln and the amino acids that can substitute Gln, Xcc is selected from Pro or Arg and the amino acids which can substitute Pro and Arg.

The preferred amino acids that can replace Gly, include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile).

The preferred amino acids that can replace Gln, include a side chain with an amino group that is neutral pH (pH 6-7) predominantly uncharged, z. Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.

The preferred amino acids that can replace Arg, include a side chain with a nitrogen atom which is at pH 6 is present predominantly charged, z. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and isodesmosin.

When Rigin analogs according to the invention are Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred. ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides, the at least one amino acid with an aliphatic Contain side chain, z. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (Ile). Also included are ALAMCAT tetrapeptides at least one amino acid having a side chain with one Amino group, which at neutral pH (pH 6-7) predominantly uncharged, z. Gln, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least an amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom, which is predominantly charged at pH 6, z. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid ALAMCAT tetrapeptides can be any amino acid contain; however, the fourth amino acid is also preferred selected from the three aforementioned groups.

Further preferred tetrapeptides are selected from tetrapeptides with the building blocks leucine, proline, threonine and valine. Especially preferred is a synthetic tetrapeptide with the INCI name Tetrapeptide-1 with the building blocks leucine, proline, threonine and valine, as such from Oristar and under the trade name I.E.L. Leucocytar elastase inhibitor available from Vincience is.

Further preferred tetrapeptides are selected from tetrapeptides with the building blocks aspartic acid, lysine, tyrosine and valine. Particularly preferred here is the tetrapeptide with the INCI name Tetrapeptides-2.

Further preferred tetrapeptides are selected from tetrapeptides with the building blocks glycine, glutamic acid and proline. Especially preferred here is the tetrapeptide with the INCI name Tetrapeptide-4.

Further preferred tetrapeptides are selected from tetrapeptides with the building blocks alanine, histidine and serine. Especially preferred Here is the tetrapeptide with the INCI name Tetrapeptide-5.

Further preferred tetrapeptides are selected from tetrapeptides with the building blocks alanine, proline and valine. Especially preferred here is the tetrapeptide with the INCI name Tetrapeptide-6.

Further preferred tetrapeptides are selected from tetrapeptides with the building blocks arginine, glutamine, glycine and proline. Especially preferred here is the tetrapeptide with the INCI name Tetrapeptide-7.

Further preferred tetrapeptides are selected from tetrapeptides with the building blocks arginine, glutamine, glycine and lysine. Especially preferred here is the tetrapeptide with the INCI name Tetrapeptide-8.

Further preferred tetrapeptides are selected from tetrapeptides with the building blocks aspartic acid, glutamine, histidine and Valine. Particularly preferred here is the tetrapeptide with the INCI name Tetrapeptide-9.

Further preferred tetrapeptides are selected from tetrapeptides with the building blocks lysine, threonine and phenylalanine. Especially preferred Here is the tetrapeptide with the INCI name Tetrapeptide-10.

Further preferred tetrapeptides are selected from tetrapeptides with the building blocks leucine, proline and tyrosine. Especially preferred Here is the tetrapeptide with the INCI name Tetrapeptide-11.

Further preferred tetrapeptides are selected from tetrapeptides with the building blocks alanine and lysine. Particular preference is given here the tetrapeptide with the INCI name Tetrapeptide-12.

Further preferred tetrapeptides are selected from tetrapeptides with the building blocks alanine, leucine and lysine. Especially preferred here is the tetrapeptide with the INCI name Tetrapeptide-13.

Further preferred tetrapeptides are selected from tetrapeptides with the building blocks glutamic acid, lysine and proline. Especially preferred here is the tetrapeptide with the INCI name Tetrapeptide-14.

Further preferred tetrapeptides are selected from Lys-Val-Dab-Thr-OH, Palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-Thr-OH, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys-Ala-OH, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys-Arg-OH, Palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys-Gln-OH, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys-Ser-OH, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-Glu-OH, Palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-Asp-OH, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-Thr-OH, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-Lys-OH, Palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-Met-OH, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-Asn-OH, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-His-OH, Palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-Nle-OH and Palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-Phe-OH, wherein the combination of palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-OH and palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Dab-Thr-OH is particularly preferred.

Further preferred tetrapeptides are based on the likewise preferred tripeptide Gly-His-Lys and contain another peptide building block, the is selected from Gly, His and Lys. Correspondingly preferred tetrapeptides are Gly-His-Lys-Gly, Gly-His-Lys-His, Gly-His-Lys-Lys, Gly-Gly-His-Lys, His-Gly-His-Lys, Lys-Gly-His-Lys, His-Gly-Gly-Lys, Lys-His-Gly-Gly, Lys-Gly-Gly-His, Gly-Gly-His-Lys, Gly-His-Gly-Lys and Lys-Gly-His-Gly. Preference is given to tetrapeptides of the building blocks Gly, His and Lys, in particular the tetrapeptide with the INCI name Tetrapeptide-3. Particularly preferred is a tetrapeptide from the building blocks Gly, His and Lys, which - substituted with a caproyl radical - under the INCI name Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3 (trade name ChroNOline) from Atrium Innovations, substituted with an acetyl residue - under the INCI name Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 (trade name Folixyl and Kollaren) from the Institut Européen de Biologie Cellulaire is available.

Preferred according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated Derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, which is available under the name Matrixyl from the company Sederma N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (The latter two provide serine proteinase inhibitors Inhibition of desquamation). Preferred according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, especially preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, sold under the name Biopeptide EL is available from Sederma Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg, furthermore acetyl-hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 6VY from TPI), Myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl Hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Collasyn 614VG from TPI), hexapeptide-8 (e.g. Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience) and hexapeptides-10 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec), Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., modulene from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g. B. SNAP-7 from Centerchem), hexapeptide-2 (eg, melanostatine-DM from Vincience), Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, e.g., peptides 02 from Vincience), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, hexapeptide-4 (e.g. Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Collasyn 614VG from TPI), Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine-homophenylalanine-Trp (hexapeptide-7), Hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience), hexapeptide-10 (eg, Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec) and hexapeptide-11 (e.g., Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care).

One Nonapeptide preferred according to the invention is Lys-Val-Ile-Pro-Tyr-Val-Arg-Tyr-Leu; this stimulates the growth of keratinocytes and fibroblasts and collagen synthesis by fibroblasts. Other peptides with these functions, which contain this nonapeptide building block, are Thr-Lys-Val-Ile-Pro-Tyr-Val-Arg-Tyr-Leu, Lys-Thr-Lys-Val-Ile-Pro-Tyr-Val-Arg-Tyr-Leu, Pro-Lys-Thr-Lys-Val-Ile-Pro-Tyr-Val-Arg-Tyr-Leu, Gln-Pro-Lys-Thr-Lys-Val-Ile-Pro-Tyr-Val-Arg-Tyr-Leu, Ala-Met-Lys-ProTrp-Ile-Gln-Pro-Lys-Thr-Lys-Val-Ile Pro-Tyr-Val-Arg-Tyr-Leu and Pro-Gln-Tyr-Leu-Lys-Thr-Val-Tyr-Gln-His-Gln-Lys-Ala-Met-Lys-ProTrp-Ile-Gln-Pro-Lys-Thr-Lys-Val-Ile-Pro Tyr-Val-Arg-Tyr-Leu.

One According to the invention preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1). Another preferred amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (glistine from exsymol).

Particularly according to the invention preferred is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as used in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 is available from Sederma.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts thereof Substances, in a total amount of 0.000001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001-2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0001-1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005-0.5 wt .-% , in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, in a total amount of 0.5 and 5000 ppm (w / w), preferably between 1 and 1000 ppm (w / w), each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

Also preferred is the use of taurine. Here are used in the invention preferred are topical compositions which additionally contain 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.75-1.5% by weight, and especially 1-1.25% by weight of 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine) contain.

It is also advantageous in the context of the present invention, topical To provide compositions containing at least one UV filter substance contain. UV protection reduces pore size Effect of the fluorocarbons used in the invention continue to support and improve.

The Subject to the invention preferred UV filter in terms of their structure and their physical properties no general restrictions. Rather, they are suitable all UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector, their absorption maximum in UVA (315-400 nm) -, in UVB (280-315 nm) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range lies. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred. Preference is given to those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum above 15,000, especially above from 20000, lies.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in addition to the at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound the number of at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, extraordinarily preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol comprising at least one UV filter substance from the following represented groups (i) = alkyl and / or alkoxy-substituted Dibenzoylmethane derivatives, (ii) = polysilicone-15 or (iii) = derivatives of benzimidazole sulfonic acid.

i) alkyl and / or alkoxy-substituted dibenzoylmethane

Alkyl and / or alkoxy-substituted dibenzoylmethane derivatives which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that one of the phenyl radicals has at least one alkyl group selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, n -Pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, 2-ethylhexyl, and the other phenyl radical having at least one alkoxy group selected from methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy, isopropoxy, n-butoxy, sec-butoxy, tert-butoxy, n-pentoxy, Isopentoxy, neopentoxyl, 2-ethylhexoxy, is substituted. Particularly preferred substituents are isopropyl, tert-butyl and methoxy. Preferred alkyl- and / or alkoxy-substituted dibenzoylmethane derivatives according to the invention are selected from 2-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-diisopropyldibenzoylmethane , 4,4'-dimethoxydibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,4 Dimethyl 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,6-dime thyl-4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane. Particularly preferred is 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane with the INCI name butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (also referred to as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione ), an oil-soluble organic UV-A filter substance, the z. B. as PARSOL ^® 1789 from DSM or as Eusolex ^® 9020 from Merck KGaA is available.

ii) Polysilicone-15

The UV-B screening agent with the INCI name Polysilicone-15 is also known as 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane copolymer with the Parsol ^® SLX), dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate referred Diethylbenzylidene malonates Dimethicone or Diethylmalonylbenzylidene Oxypropene dimethicone and is sold under the trade name Parsol ^® SLX (INCI name Dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS no. 207574-74-1)) from DSM. The chemical structure is for example in EP 709080 A2 described.

iii) derivative of benzimidazole sulfonic acid

preferred UV filter substance (s) of component (iii) of the invention Compositions are the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (UV-A) and their salts, especially the alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, Alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium- and Glucammoniumsalze, preferred the corresponding sodium, potassium, trialkylammonium or triethanolamine salts, in particular, the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name "Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonates "(CAS No .: 180898-37-7), for example available under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP from Symrise is. Further preferred UV filter substance (s) of component (iii) the compositions according to the invention are the 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (UV-B) and their salts, especially the alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, preferably the corresponding ones Sodium, potassium, trialkylammonium or triethanolamine salts, but especially the 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid even with the INCI name "phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid "(CAS No. 27503-81-7), for example, under the trade names Neo Heliopan Hydro from Symrise or Eusolex 232 from Merck KGaA available is. In a particularly preferred according to the invention Embodiment are the salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid selected from the salts of this acid with basic Amino acids, in particular with lysine, arginine and / or histidine, Arginine is particularly preferred.

In another particularly preferred according to the invention Embodiment are the salts of phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid selected from the salts of this acid with basic Amino acids, especially with ornithine, lysine, arginine and / or histidine, with arginine being particularly preferred.

Particularly according to the invention preferred sunscreen filter combinations (i), (ii) and (iii) include 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, Polysilicone-15 and 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid. Further inventively particularly preferred sunscreen filter combinations (i), (ii) and (iii) include 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, Polysilicone-15 and disodium phenylbenzimidazole tetrasulfonate.

Further According to the invention particularly preferred sunscreen filter combinations (i), (ii) and (iii) include 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, Polysilicone-15 and a 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid-arginine salt.

The The aforementioned UV filter substances of component (i) are preferred in a total amount of from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1 to 15 wt .-%, especially 2 to 10 wt .-% and extraordinarily preferably 3-5 wt .-%, in each case based on the Total weight of the compositions according to the invention.

Polysilicone-15, the above-mentioned component (ii) is preferably in a total amount from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 7% by weight, in particular 2 to 5 wt .-% and exceptionally preferred 3-4 wt .-%, in each case based on the total weight the compositions of the invention.

The abovementioned UV filter substances of component (iii) are preferably in a total amount of from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 5% by weight and exceptionally preferably 3-4% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the invention Compositions.

preferred Compositions according to the invention are characterized characterized in that the UV filters (i), (ii) and (iii) in one Weight ratio of each other of (i) :( ii) :( iii) such as (0.8-1.5) :( 0.8-1.5) :( 0.8-1.5), preferably as (0.9-1.2) :( 0.9-1.2) :( 0.9-1.2), particularly preferred as (1-1,1) :( 1-1,1) :( 1-1,1), are included.

Around can further increase the SPF the compositions used according to the invention preferably at least one further organic and / or inorganic UV filter substance included. Further preferred UV filter substances, in addition to those of components (i), (ii) and (iii) used in the invention Compositions are used are mentioned below.

triazine derivatives

aufweisen, sind im Stand der Technik bekannt, beispielsweise aus EP 775698 , EP 878469 und EP 1027881 .UV filter substances based on triazine derivatives, which have the following structural motif

are known in the art, for example EP 775698 . EP 878469 and EP 1027881 ,

With regard to the C ₃ axis of the triazine basic body of these compounds, both symmetrical substitution and unsymmetrical substitution are conceivable.

In this sense symmetrically substituted s-triazines have three identical substituents R ¹ , R ² and R ³ , while asymmetrically substituted s-triazine derivatives consequently have different substituents, whereby the C ₃ symmetry is destroyed. For the purposes of the present invention, "unsymmetrical" is always understood to be asymmetrical with respect to the C ₃ axis of the triazine base, unless something else is expressly mentioned.

With respect to the C ₃ axis of the triazine parent symmetrical triazine derivatives are preferably those of the general formula TRIAZIN-GRUND with R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = -NH-Phe-COOR, with Phe = phenyl radical in which the substituents NH and -COOR are in para position to each other. Particularly preferred such symmetrical triazine derivatives are 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (alkyl ester). A particularly preferred such ester is 4,4 ', 4''- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) [INCI: ethylhexyl triazone, previously octyl Triazone], which is sold as a single substance by BASF under the trade name UVINUL T 150 ^®, but also available in various commercial UV filter mixtures. Particularly preferred according to the invention is ethylhexyl triazone.

und/oder

Unsymmetrical triazine derivatives which are preferred according to the invention are, for example, those which are described in US Pat EP 775698 are disclosed:

and or

Alone EP 775698 mentioned so-called bis-Resorcinyltriazine, whether disclosed by generic or by specific formulas, are advantageous in the context of the present invention.

Most preferably, R ₄ and R _{5 are selected} from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups of 1 to 18 carbon atoms. Again, the alkyl groups may in turn be advantageously substituted with silyloxy groups.

A ₁ preferably represents a substituted homo- or heterocyclic aromatic five-membered or six-membered ring.

Very particularly preferred optional UV filter substances are selected from unsymmetrically substituted s-triazine compounds of the general formula (BIS-RESOR-TRIAZIN) -I, in which R _{6 represents} a hydrogen atom or a branched or unbranched alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. A particularly preferred compound of the general formula (BIS-RESOR-TRIAZIN) -I, in which R ₄ and R ₅ each represent a 2-ethylhexyl group and R _{6 represents} a methyl group, is 2,4-bis - {[4- (4) 2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine available), under the trade name Tinosorb S from CIBA ^®.

Another preferred optional according to the invention asymmetrically substituted s-triazine compound is a compound having the INCI name Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, having the general formula triazine with R ¹ = R ² -NH-Phe-COOR, with Phe = phenyl A radical in which the substituents -NH and -COOR are in the para position relative to one another, R is 2-ethylhexyl and R ^{3 is} -NH-Phe-CONH-tert-butyl, with Phe = phenyl radical in which the substituents NH and -CONH-tert-butyl in para position to each other. This UV filter, an effective UV-A filter, is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.

• – 2,4,6-Tris([1,1'-Biphenyl]-4-yl)-1,3,5-Triazine, INCI: Tris-Biphenyl Triazine, erhältlich unter dem Handelsnamen Tinosorb A2B von CIBA,
• – 2,4-bis-[5-1(di-methylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazin (CAS Nr. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb^® K2A von 3V Sigma, INCI: Ethylhexyl Bis-Isopentylbenzoxazolylphenyl Melamine),
• – 2,4-Bis-{[4-(3-sulfonato)-2-hydroxy-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin-Natriumsalz,
• – 2,4-Bis-{[4-(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin,
• – 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-[4-(2-methoxyethyl-carboxyl)-phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazin,
• – 2,4-Bis-{[4-(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-[4-(ethylcarboxyl)-phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazin,
• – 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl)-1,3,5-triazin,
• – 2,4-Bis-{[4-tris(trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin,
• – 2,4-Bis-([4-(2-methylpropenyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin und
• – 2,4-Bis-{[4-(1',1',1',3',5',5',5'-Heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin,
• – 2-[4,6-Bis(2,4-dimethylphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]-5-(ethylhexyloxy)phenol.

Further preferred UV filter substances based on s-triazine compounds which are preferred according to the invention are:

• 2,4,6-tris ([1,1'-biphenyl] -4-yl) -1,3,5-triazines, INCI: tris-biphenyl triazines, available under the trade name Tinosorb A2B from CIBA,
• - 2,4-bis- [5-1 (di-methyl-propyl) -benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS No. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb® ^® K2A by Sigma 3V, INCI:. ethylhexyl bis-Isopentylbenzoxazolylphenyl Melamine)
• 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine sodium salt,
• 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine .
• 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine .
• 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3 , 5-triazine,
• 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1-methylpyrrol-2-yl) -1,3,5-triazine,
• 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine,
• - 2,4-bis - [[4- (2-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and
• 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} - 6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine,
• 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (ethylhexyloxy) phenol.

The s-triazine derivatives are preferably in the oil phase of the invention incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological compositions.

benzotriazoles

, unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb^® M von CIBA erhältlich. Hierbei handelt es sich um einen so genannten Breitbandfilter, der sowohl UV-A- als auch UV-B-Strahlung absorbiert.Another preferred optional UV filter substance is 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) (INCI: Methylene Bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, MBBT) having the following structural formula

Available under the trade name Tinosorb ^® M from CIBA. This is a so-called broadband filter that absorbs both UVA and UVB radiation.

A another preferred optional broadband UV filter substance is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - ((trimethylsilyl ) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

Further preferred optional benzotriazole filters are 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical), 2- (2'-hydroxy-3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No .: 025973-551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-octylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS-No. 003147-75-9), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS-No. 2440-22-4) and 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - ((trimethylsilyl) oxy ] disiloxanyl) propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

• – Derivate des Camphers, insbesondere 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, die keine ionisierbaren funktionellen Gruppen im Molekül aufweisen können, bevorzugt 3-(4'-Methylbenzyliden)-D,L-campher [INCI: 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor], das von Merck unter der Warenbezeichnung Eusolex 6300 vertrieben wird;
• – Derivate des Camphers, die ionisierbare funktionelle Gruppen im Molekül aufweisen können, bevorzugt Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze; das 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol und dessen Salze (besonders die entsprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird, Sulfonsäurederivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure und 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornyliden)sulfonsäure und deren Salze mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (CAS.-Nr.: 92761-26-7, als Mexoryl SX von der Firma Chimex erhältlich).
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, bevorzugt 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoësäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – 2-Aminobenzosäure-Derivate
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, bevorzugt 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäurepropylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester; und 2-Cyano-3,3-phenylzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester (= Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat (Octocrylene)),
• – Ester der Salicylsäure, bevorzugt Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester (2-Ethylhexylsalicylat (= Octylsalicylat)), Salicylsäure(4-isopropylbenzyl)ester (4-Isopropylbenzylsalicylat), Salicylsäurehomomenthylester (Homomenthylsalicylat, Homosalate).
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, die keine ionisierbaren funktionellen Gruppen im Molekül aufweisen, bevorzugt 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon; 2-(4'- Diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoesäurehexylester (auch: Aminobenzophenon, unter der Bezeichnung Uvinul A Plus bei der Firma BASF erhältlich),
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, die ionisierbare funktionelle Gruppen im Molekül aufweisen, bevorzugt Sulfonsäurederivate von Benzophenonen, besonders bevorzugt 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze,
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, bevorzugt 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester,
• – sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter, die von Komponente (b) verschieden sind.
• – Derivate von Benzoxazol, bevorzugt 2,2'(Naphthalene-1,4-Diyl)bis(benzoxazole) (INCI: Dibenzoxazoyl Naphthalene) und 2,4-bis-[5-1(di-methylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazin (Uvasorb^® K2A von 3V Sigma, INCI: Ethylhexyl Bis-Isopentylbenzoxazolylphenyl Melamine). Die Benzoxazol-Derivate liegen bevorzugt in gelöster Form in den erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Zusammensetzungen vor. Es kann ggf. aber auch von Vorteil sein, wenn die Benzoxazol-Derivate in pigmentärer, d. h. ungelöster Form
• – beispielsweise in Partikelgrößen von 10 nm bis zu 300 nm – vorliegen.

Further preferred UV filter substances which are used in addition to those of components (i), (ii) and (iii) in the compositions according to the invention are mentioned below:

• - Derivatives of camphor, in particular 3-Benzylidencampher derivatives which may have no ionizable functional groups in the molecule, preferably 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor [INCI: 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor], the Merck of the trade name Eusolex 6300 is distributed;
• Derivatives of camphor, which may have ionizable functional groups in the molecule, preferably sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts; the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, esp especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also referred to as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid), sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts with the INCI name Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (CAS. 92761-26-7, available as Mexoryl SX from Chimex).
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid amyl ester;
• 2-aminobenzoic acid derivatives
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester; and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (= ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene)),
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate (= octylsalicylate)), 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate (4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate), homomenthyl salicylate (homomenthylsalicylate, homosalates).
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, which have no ionizable functional groups in the molecule, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy 4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Hexyl 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate (also: aminobenzophenone, available under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF),
• Derivatives of benzophenone having ionizable functional groups in the molecule, preferably sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, more preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts,
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzalmalonate,
• - As well as bound to polymers UV filter, which are different from component (b).
• Derivatives of benzoxazole, preferably 2,2 '(naphthalenes-1,4-diyl) bis (benzoxazoles) (INCI: dibenzoxazoyl naphthalenes) and 2,4-bis [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl - (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (Uvasorb K2A ^® from 3V Sigma, INCI: ethylhexyl bis-Isopentylbenzoxazolylphenyl melamines). The benzoxazole derivatives are preferably present in dissolved form in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives in a pigmentary, ie undissolved form
• - For example, in particle sizes of 10 nm to 300 nm - are present.

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, solutions of the UV-A-filter 1 can be, for example, (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) in various UV-B Make filters. Therefore, in a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

The List of said optional UV filter substances, in the sense of the present invention can be used Of course, not limiting. The total amount on the at least one optional organic UV filter substance in the cosmetic or dermatological according to the invention Compositions are preferably 0.5-20% by weight, more preferably 1-15% by weight, extremely preferably 2-10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight the composition of the invention.

The inventively preferred optional inorganic UV filter substances are preferably finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, alumina, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, ie represent so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). The hydrophobic coating agents are mainly silicones and especially trialkoxy octylsilane, preferably triethoxy-caprylylsilane, or simethicone in question. Further preferred coating agents are aluminum oxides. Further preferred coating agents are silica, e.g. For example, the commercial product Eusolex T AVO from Merck KGaA. Another preferred coating agent is stearic acid. Another preferred coating agent is polyhydroxystearic acid. Another preferred coating agent is aluminum stearate. A particularly preferred inorganic UV filter is titanium dioxide hydrophobically coated with triethoxy-caprylyl silanes, available under the name Titan M 265 from Kemira.

According to the invention preferred is at least one inorganic UV filter substance in a total amount from 0.1-15% by weight, more preferably 0.5-10 Wt .-%, most preferably 1.0-5 wt .-% and more preferably 2.0-4.0 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, included.

The Compositions used according to the invention can apply in all for the topical application the skin be formulated suitable dosage forms. preferred Dosage forms are a solution, an emulsion of Water-in-oil (W / O) type, an oil-in-water type emulsion (O / W), a multiple emulsion, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water type (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), one Hydrodispersion, a lipodispersion, a gel, a hydrodispersion gel, a lipodispersion gel, a solid stick, a gel plaster (gel patch), a patch, a cataplasm, drug-containing liposomes or a transdermal therapeutic system. Low viscous or medium viscosity Dosage forms can also be in a propellant-free Pump or spray dispenser or together with a propellant be assembled in an aerosol container. Farther is preferred, the used in the invention Fluorocarbon in a multi-chamber dispenser, preferably in a two-chamber dispenser, to wrap. It is in a first preferred embodiment the fluorocarbon used in the invention in one of the two chambers included. In a further preferred Embodiment is the invention used Fluorocarbon in encapsulated form before. The encapsulation can be, for example in the form of gelatin capsules, polyamide capsules, polyvinyl alcohol capsules or capsules of other suitable polymer materials. Preferably, the encapsulation takes place in the form of liposomes, especially preferably in the form of phospholipids, such as preferably lecithin, hardened lecithin or lecithin fractions, such as phosphatidylcholine, and / or liposomes formed from sphingolipids, such as ceramides. The liposomes may be predominantly unilamellar Vesicles, paucilamellar vesicles or multilamellar vesicles are present.

Used according to the invention Emulsions in the context of the present invention, for. In the form of a cream, a lotion or a cosmetic milk, are beneficial and contain z. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, and water and one or more emulsifiers, as is customary be used for such a type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous in the sense of the present Invention, the compositions of the invention as aqueous systems or surfactant compositions for cleaning and care of the skin. This preferably includes shower gels, Scalp tonics, sprays etc.

When Particularly advantageous is the use of surfactants (E) in the According to the invention used means proved. In a further preferred embodiment included the agents used according to the invention therefore surfactants. Surfactants are surfactants, which form adsorption layers on the upper and boundary surfaces or in volume phases to micellar colloids or lyotropic mesophases can aggregate, understood. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants, consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged one hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants which are both a negative as well as a compensating positive charge, cationic Surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, are positively charged have hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants that no Charges, but have strong dipole moments and in aqueous Solution are strongly hydrated.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2–15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (E1-I), R¹(OCH₂CH₂)_n-O-P(O)(OX)-OR² (E1-I)in der R¹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR² oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C₁ bis C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel (E1-II) R⁷CO(AlkO)_nSO₃M (E1-II)in der R⁷CO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Kation steht,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (E1-III)
  
  in der R⁸CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate der Formel (E1-III) eingesetzt, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht,
• – Amidethercarbonsäuren,
• – Kondensationsprodukte aus C₈-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen mit Proteinhydrolysaten und/oder Aminosäuren und deren Derivaten, welche dem Fachmann als Eiweissfettsäurekondensate bekannt sind, wie beispielsweise die Lamepon^®-Typen, Gluadin^®-Typen, Hostapon^® KCG oder die Amisoft^®-Typen.

Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in compositions according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• - Sulfated Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- and / or Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether
• - Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I), R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -OP (O) (OX) -OR ² (E1-I) in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ₁ to C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical,
• Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (E1-II) R ⁷ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (E1-II) in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation,
• Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III)
  
  in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
• - amide ether carboxylic acids,
• - condensation products of C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® grades, Gluadin ^® grades, Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® grades ,

preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 18 C-atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerisulfates, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.

Zwitterionic surfactants (E2) are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^(-) group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-Al Kyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which contain, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and for the formation of internal Salts are capable. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxylierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxylierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (E4-I) R¹CO-(OCH₂CHR²)_wOR³ (E4-I)in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäß Formel (E4-II), R⁴O-[G]_p (E4-II)in der R⁴ für einen Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht. Sie können nach den einschlägigen Verfahren der präparativen organischen Chemie erhalten werden. Die Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside können sich von Aldosen bzw. Ketosen mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, vorzugsweise von Glucose, ableiten. Die bevorzugten Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside sind somit Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglucoside. Die Indexzahl p in der allgemeinen Formel (E4-II) gibt den Oligomerisierungsgrad (DP), d. h. die Verteilung von Mono- und Oligoglykosiden an und steht für eine Zahl zwischen 1 und 10. Während p im einzelnen Molekül stets ganzzahlig sein muss und hier vor allem die Werte p = 1 bis 6 annehmen kann, ist der Wert p für ein bestimmtes Alkyloligoglykosid eine analytisch ermittelte rechnerische Größe, die meistens eine gebrochene Zahl darstellt. Vorzugsweise werden Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside mit einem mittleren Oligomerisierungsgrad p von 1,1 bis 3,0 eingesetzt. Aus anwendungstechnischer Sicht sind solche Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside bevorzugt, deren Oligomerisierungsgrad kleiner als 1,7 ist und insbesondere zwischen 1,2 und 1,4 liegt. Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R⁴ kann sich von primären Alkoholen mit 4 bis 11, vorzugsweise 8 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Butanol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol und Undecylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, wie sie beispielsweise bei der Hydrierung von technischen Fettsäuremethylestern oder im Verlauf der Hydrierung von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese erhalten werden. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloligoglucoside der Kettenlänge C₈-C₁₀ (DP = 1 bis 3), die als Vorlauf bei der destillativen Auftrennung von technischem C₈-C₁₈-Kokosfettalkohol anfallen und mit einem Anteil von weniger als 6 Gew.-% C₁₂-Alkohol verunreinigt sein können sowie Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis technischer C_9/11-Oxoalkohole (DP = 1 bis 3). Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R¹⁵ kann sich ferner auch von primären Alkoholen mit 12 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 14 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol, Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Gemische, die wie oben beschrieben erhalten werden können. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis von gehärtetem C_12/14-Kokosalkohol mit einem DP von 1 bis 3.
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide, ein nichtionisches Tensid der Formel (E4-III), R⁵CO-NR⁶-[Z] (E4-III)in der R⁵CO für einen aliphatischen Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R⁶ für Wasserstoff, einen Alkyl- oder Hydroxyalkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und [Z] für einen linearen oder verzweigten Polyhydroxyalkylrest mit 3 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen und 3 bis 10 Hydroxylgruppen steht. Bei den Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamiden handelt es sich um bekannte Stoffe, die üblicherweise durch reduktive Aminierung eines reduzierenden Zuckers mit Ammoniak, einem Alkylamin oder einem Alkanolamin und nachfolgende Acylierung mit einer Fettsäure, einem Fettsäurealkylester oder einem Fettsäurechlorid erhalten werden. Vorzugsweise leiten sich die Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide von reduzierenden Zuckern mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbe sondere von der Glucose ab. Die bevorzugten Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide stellen daher Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide dar, wie sie durch die Formel (E4-IV) wiedergegeben werden: R⁷CO-NR⁸-CH₂-(CHOH)₄-CH₂OH (E4-IV)Vorzugsweise werden als Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide Glucamide der Formel (E4-IV) eingesetzt, in der R⁸ für Wasserstoff oder eine Alkylgruppe steht und R⁷CO für den Acylrest der Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure oder Erucasäure bzw. für deren technische Mischungen steht. Besonders bevorzugt sind Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide der Formel (E4-IV), die durch reduktive Aminierung von Glucose mit Methylamin und anschließende Acylierung mit Laurinsäure oder C12/14-Kokosfettsäure bzw. einem entsprechenden Derivat erhalten werden. Weiterhin können sich die Polyhydroxyalkylamide auch von Maltose und Palatinose ableiten.

Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• - with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (E4-I) in the R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
• - amine oxides,
• - hydroxymix ether,
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II), R ⁴ O- [G] _p (E4-II) in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be integer and here before For all given values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. typical Examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides of the chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) which are obtained as a feedstock in the distillative separation of technical C ₈ -C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol and in a proportion of less than 6% by weight C ₁₂ - Alcohol may be contaminated as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C _12/14 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3.
• Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (E4-III), R ⁵ CO-NR ⁶ - [Z] (E4-III) R ^{5 is} CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which are usually obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV): R ⁷ CO-NR ⁸ -CH ₂ - (CHOH) ₄ -CH ₂ OH (E4-IV) The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R ^{8 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ^{7 is} CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or for their technical mixtures. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

When preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Compositions with excellent properties will also be obtained when they are fatty acid esters as nonionic surfactants of ethoxylated glycerol. These connections are through the following parameters are marked. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be both linear and branched be. Preferred are primary linear and in 2-position methyl-branched aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Especially preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. Using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials predominate Compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain. Furthermore, very particularly preferred nonionic Surfactants are the sugar surfactants. These can be used in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%, based to be included on the entire medium. Amounts of 0.5-15 % By weight are preferred and most preferred are amounts from 0.5 to 7.5% by weight.

at it may be the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant each are uniform substances. It is, however, in usually preferred in the preparation of these substances by native to go out with vegetable or animal raw materials, so that one Substance mixtures with different, from the respective raw material receives dependent alkyl chain lengths.

In the surfactants, the adducts of ethylene and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or Derivatives of these addition products can be used both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred. Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines can be used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®.

The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.

The cationic surfactants are used in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The Surfactants (E) are preferably used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight and most preferably from 0.5-25 wt .-%, based on the total used in the invention Medium, used.

anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants as well Their mixtures may be preferred according to the invention be.

In summary are topical compositions used according to the invention preferably, which - based on their weight - 0.5 to 70 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 60 wt .-% and in particular 5 to 25% by weight of anionic (s) and / or nonionic (s) and / or cationic (s) and / or amphoteric surfactant (s).

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z. B. als Lecithine bzw. Phosphatidylcholine aus z. B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z. B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH),
• – Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn-Salze.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents used according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

• Addition products of from 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids. These include, above all, the glucose phospholipids, which are z. B. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans) are understood.
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),
• - Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The The agents used according to the invention contain the Emulsifiers preferably in amounts of 0.1-25 wt .-%, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent. Prefers may be used in the invention Compositions containing at least one nonionic emulsifier contain an HLB value of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10-15 can according to the invention particularly be preferred.

When It has furthermore been shown to be advantageous if polymers (G) are available in contain the agents used in the invention are. In a preferred embodiment, the inventively used Therefore, polymers have been added, whereby both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers as effective have proven.

in der R¹ = -H oder -CH₃ ist, R², R³ und R⁴ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus C1-4-Alkyl-, -Alkenyl- oder -Hydroxyalkylgruppen, m = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, n eine natürliche Zahl und X^– ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, sowie Copolymere, bestehend im wesentlichen aus den in Formel (G1-I) aufgeführten Monomereinheiten sowie nichtionogenen Monomereinheiten, sind besonders bevorzugte kationische Polymere. Im Rahmen dieser Polymere sind diejenigen erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, für die mindestens eine der folgenden Bedingungen gilt:

• – R¹ steht für eine Methylgruppe
• – R², R³ und R⁴ stehen für Methylgruppen
• – m hat den Wert 2.

Cationic or amphoteric polymers are preferably usable according to the invention. Cationic or amphoteric polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable. Homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I),

in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

• - R ¹ is a methyl group
• - R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups
• - m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ^® CR (Ethnichem) in trade. The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers having monomer units of the formula (G1-I) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

• – quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat^® und Polymer JR^® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat^® H 100, Celquat^® L 200 und Polymer JR^®400 sind bevorzugte quaternierte Cellulose-Derivate,
• – kationische Alkylpolyglycoside gemäß der DE-PS 44 13 686 ,
• – kationiserter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^® 50,
• – kationische Guar-Derivate, wie insbesondere die unter den Handelsnamen Cosmedia^®Guar und Jaguar^® vertriebenen Produkte,
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere,
• – Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^®734 und Gafquat^®755 im Handel erhältlich,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,
• – sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 und Polyquaternium 27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
• Cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686 .
• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ^® Guar and Jaguar ^®,
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
• - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,
• - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
• - as well as the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are. Other cationic polymers which can be used in the agents according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. For example, chitosan and its derivatives are preferred as Hydagen CMF ^®, Hydagen HCMF ^®, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are available commercially, for example under the trade names.

According to the invention preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to the DE-PS 44 13 686 and polyquaternium-37 type polymers.

Farther are cationized protein hydrolysates to the cationic polymers to count, taking the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the Plant, for example, from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soybeans or almonds, marine life forms such as fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates, can come. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and plant-based derivatives. In addition to cationic Polymers or in their place, the inventive Agent also contain amphoteric polymers. These are additional at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers.

• A) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (Z-I), R¹-CH=CR²-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R³R⁴R⁵ A^(–) (Z-I)In der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A^(–) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist und
• B) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (Z-II), R⁶-CH=CR⁷-COOH (II)in denen R⁶ und R⁷ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

In the context of the present invention, preferably usable zwitterionic polymers are composed essentially together

• A) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (ZI), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^(-) (ZI) In the R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and
• B) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Z-II), R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (II) in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

suitable Starting monomers are z. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, Dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and Diethylaminoethylacrylamid, if Z is an NH group or Dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and diethylaminoethyl acrylate, when Z is an oxygen atom.

The monomers containing a tertiary amino group are then quaternized in a known manner, methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate being particularly suitable as alkylating reagents. Advantageously, those monomers of formula (ZI) are used which are derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Preference is furthermore given to those monomers which contain halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ions as counterions. Also preferred are those monomers of the formula (ZI) in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups. The acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a very particularly preferred monomer of the formula (ZI).

When monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (Z-II) are acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methyl crotonic acid. Preference is given to acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular Acrylic acid, used.

The cationic or amphoteric polymers are in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

at the anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers, have the carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. examples for anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist, are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, Maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups can be used in whole or in part as Sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt available. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or some of the sulfonic acid group to be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt , Particularly preferred are homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or their salts, such as are available commercially, for example under the names Simulgel ^® 800 or Viscolam AT 100 P.

Within In this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers from at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic Use monomer. Regarding the anionic monomers Reference is made to the substances listed above. preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, dimethylacrylamide methacrylamide, Acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, Vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

preferred Compositions according to the invention contain at least an anionic thickening polymer in the form of an inverse, auto-inversible Polymer latex containing an oil phase, a water phase, at least one oil-in-water emulsifier and at least a branched or crosslinked polyelectrolyte which is a copolymer represents at least one monomer with a strong acid function and at least one other monomer which is neutral or a weak acid function.

preferred Polyelectrolytes are made of two, three, four, five or six composed of various monomers, of which at least one monomer has a strong acidity and at least one another monomer is neutral or a weak acid function having.

Preference is given to the monomer combinations
strong acidity / neutral,
strong acidity / weak acidity,
strong acidity / weak acidity / neutral
strong acidity / weak acidity 1 / weak acidity 2 / neutral,
strong acidity function / weak acidity function / neutral 1 / neutral 2,
strong acid function / weak acidity 1 / weak acidity 2 / neutral 1 / neutral 2.

The above given order of the list of monomer units does not necessarily give the actual order the monomer building blocks in the polyelectrolyte molecule again.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention are the Polyelectrolyte monomers that have a weak acid function containing selected from the monomers having a carboxyl group -COOH partially or completely neutralized is.

Out the partial neutralization of the weak acid function result in the neutralized monomer unit and the non-neutralized, acid monomer component, for example acrylic acid and sodium acrylate. Both Monomers are considered to be the same for the purposes of the present application. Accordingly, both monomers are within the meaning of the present Application regarded as "weak acid monomer".

Especially preferred examples of such weakly acidic polyelectrolyte monomers are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid. Preferred inventive Compositions are therefore characterized in that the weak Acid function of the polyelectrolyte monomer a carboxyl group -COOH, which neutralizes partially or completely is, with further preferred inventive Compositions characterized in that the monomers of the polyelectrolyte functionalized with the weakly acidic -COOH group are selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid, partially or completely are neutralized.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyelectrolyte monomers having a strong acid group are selected from monomers which are functionalized with a sulfonic acid group -SO ₃ H or a phosphonic acid group. A particularly preferred strong acid polyelectrolyte monomer is 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid which is partially or completely neutralized. The partial neutralization of the strong acid function results in the neutralized monomer building block and the unneutralized, acidic monomer building block, for example, 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid and sodium 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonate. Both monomers are considered to be the same for the purposes of the present application. Accordingly, both monomers in the context of the present application are considered as "strong acid monomer".

Preferred compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the strong acid function of the polyelectrolyte monomer is selected from a sulfonic acid group -SO ₃ H and a phosphonic acid group which are partially or completely neutralized, wherein further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the polyelectrolyte monomer with star acid function is selected from 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid, which is partially or completely neutralized.

in the The meaning of the present invention is all polyelectrolyte monomers, functionalized with a weak or strong acid group are partially or completely neutralized as sodium, Potassium, ammonium, ethanolamine or amino acid salt. Preferred compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the polyelectrolyte monomers, functionalized with a weak or strong acid group are partially or completely neutralized as Sodium, potassium, ammonium, ethanolamine or amino acid salt.

In Another preferred embodiment of the present invention Invention, the neutral Polyelektrolytmonomer is selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl methacrylate, the ethoxylated derivatives of aforementioned esters having a molecular weight between 400 and 1000 g / mol, acrylamide, alkylacrylamides, such as Methylacrylamide, ethylacrylamide, n-propylacrylamide and isopropylacrylamide, Dialkylamides, such as dimethylacrylamide, diethylacrylamide, Di-n-propylacrylamide and diisopropylacrylamide, as well as polyvinylpyrrolidone. In preferred compositions of the invention is the neutral polyelectrolyte monomer selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl methacrylate, the ethoxylated derivatives of said esters having a molecular weight between 400 and 1000 g / mol, acrylamide, dimethylacrylamide, diethylacrylamide, Di-n-propylacrylamide, diisopropylacrylamide and polyvinylpyrrolidone. Particularly preferred neutral polyelectrolyte monomers are selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, acrylamide, dimethylacrylamide and polyvinylpyrrolidone.

Crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and hydroxyethyl acrylate in the form of an inverse, auto-inversible latex are commercially available, e.g. B. under the trade names Simulgel ^® NS, Simulgel ^® I-NS 100, Simulgel ^® FL and Sepiplus ^® S from Seppic.

Also particularly preferred are partially or fully neutralized, crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and acrylamide, in the form of an inverse, auto-inversible latex commercially available , z. B. under the trade name Simulgel ^® 600 from Seppic.

Also particularly preferred are partially or completely neutralized, crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and acrylic acid, in the form of an inverse, auto-inversible latex commercially available , z. B. under the trade names Simulgel ^® EG and Simulgel ^® EPG from Seppic.

Also particularly preferred are partially or completely neutralized, crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS), acrylic acid or sodium acrylate, and (as the third monomer unit) dimethylacrylamide, in the form of an inverse, auto-reversible latex commercially available, for. B. under the trade name Simulgel ^® SMS 88 from Seppic.

All the abovementioned, preferably used inverse polymer latexes have in common that they contain at least one oil, preferably selected from white mineral oils, squalane, isohexadecane and (optionally hydrogenated) polyisobutene, and at least one oil-in-water emulsifier selected from the ethylene oxide adducts of Sorbitan oleate, castor oil, if desired cured, sorbitan laurate and lauryl alcohol, and further selected from the polyethylene oxide-free oil-in-water emulsifier class of C6-C22 fatty alcohol glucose ethers, in particular Caprinic Glucoside, Caprylic Glucoside, Capric Glucoside, Lauric Glucoside, Myristic glucosides, cetyl glucosides, stearyl glucosides, arachidyl glucosides, behenyl glucosides, more preferably caprylic glucosides and capric glucosides. Accordingly, preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oil phase of the inverse polymer latex contains at least one oil selected from white mineral oils, squalane, isohexadecane and (optionally hydrogenated) polyisobutene. Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oil-in-water emulsifier contained in the inverse polymer latex is selected from the ethylene oxide adducts of sorbitan oleate, castor oil, if desired hardened, sorbitan laurate and lauryl alcohol, and caprylic glucosides and capric glucosides , The inventively preferred thickening polymer latexes preferably have a polymer content of 30-90 wt .-%, preferably 35-75 wt .-% and particularly preferably 40-60 wt .-%, each based on the total latex on. The polymer content of the latex, however, has only an importance for the preparation of the compositions used in the invention, for. B. in terms of miscibility or metering. For the composition according to the invention itself, the polymer content per se, based on the composition according to the invention, is significant. Based on the total cosmetic composition according to the invention, the thickening polymer is used in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, preferably 0.3-3% by weight and particularly preferably 0.5-2.5% by weight, based on the total cosmetic composition according to the invention, wherein polymer contents of 0.4, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1 , 4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3 and 2.4 wt.% Are particularly preferred and polymer contents of 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0 and 1.1 wt.% can be exceptionally preferred.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1.9-decadienes crosslinked maleic acid-methyl copolymer available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers to increase the effect of the fluorocarbons used according to the invention. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^- or -SO ₃ ^- groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

• (a) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (G3-I), R¹-CH=CR²-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R³R⁴R⁵ A^(–) (G3-I)in der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A^(–) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist, und
• (b) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (G3-II), R⁶-CH=CR⁷-COOH (G3-II)in denen R⁶ und R⁷ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^® is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters. Preferably used amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

• (a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (G3-I), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^(-) (G ³ -I) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and
• (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II), R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (G3-II) in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(-) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate Ion is; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.

The can be used according to the invention in a further preferred embodiment, nonionic Contain polymers (G4).

• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylester-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden. Luviskol^® VA 64 und Luviskol^® VA 73, jeweils Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere, sind ebenfalls bevorzugte nichtionische Polymere.
• – Celluloseether, wie Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose und Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Culminal^® und Benecel^® (AQUALON) und Natrosol^®-Typen (Hercules) vertrieben werden.
• – Stärke und deren Derivate, insbesondere Stärkealkylether;
• – Polyvinylpyrrolidone, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

• - Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
• - cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules) are distributed.
• Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch alkyl ethers;
• - polyvinylpyrrolidones, as for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

It According to the invention it is also possible that the compositions used according to the invention have several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or each an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic Polymer included. The polymers (G) are used in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05-10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1-5, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight are particularly preferred.

Another group of care agents that may be included in the compositions used in the invention are the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives (P). Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins. According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. Furthermore, according to the invention, polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used according to the invention. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons. According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used. Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold. Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures obtained otherwise may optionally be used instead. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold, for example, under the names Lamepon® ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or crotein ^® (Croda).

Of course The teaching of the invention includes all isomers Forms such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers.

According to the invention it also prefers a mixture of several protein hydrolysates (P) use.

The Protein hydrolysates (P) are used in the invention Preferably in concentrations of 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and most especially preferably in amounts of from 0.05% to 1% by weight.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if in the compositions of the invention at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ alkanol having 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3-20 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof is contained. Such polyols can promote a particularly even result of pore size reduction.

Water solubility according to the invention is understood to mean a solubility of at least 5% by weight at 20 ° C., that is to say that amounts of at least 5 g of the polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2-6 hydroxyl groups or of the polyethylene glycol having 3-20 Ethylene oxide units in 95 g of water at 20 ° C are soluble.

Preferably, these components are selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2- Pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,2-hexanediol and 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 2-ethyl-2-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2- Octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, PEG-3 to PEG-8 being preferred. Sugar and certain sugar derivatives such as fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose and xylose are also suitable according to the invention.

Preferred preparations according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol with 3-20 ethylene oxide units is selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2- Methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2-pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,2- Hexanediol and 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances ,

Particularly preferred preparations according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol with 3-20 ethylene oxide units in total in amounts of 3-25% by weight. %, preferably 5-18% by weight, more preferably 10-15% by weight, most preferably 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 or 17% by weight , in each case based on the total composition.

One Another object of the present application is a non-therapeutic, cosmetic method for reducing pore size the skin, wherein at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated Hydrocarbon compound is in the numerical at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, most preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms other than C, F and optionally H has no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under Normal conditions exist as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol, or a composition, containing at least one fluorocarbon containing a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound represents at least 90% in numbers, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, exceptionally preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol which is applied to the skin.

In terms of further preferred embodiments of the invention Method mutatis mutandis applies to the invention Uses said.

Reduction of pore size

When Reducing the pore size will be a reduction of pore diameter after treatment in comparison with the condition understood before the treatment.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention is the pore size by at least 3%, preferably at least 5%, in particular by at least 7% and most preferably at least 10% of the starting pore size reduced.

When Reducing the pore size of the skin, in particular the facial skin, the décolletage and the upper back, in the context of the present invention, the reduction of the pore size, especially the average pore size, by at least 3%, preferably at least 5%, in particular by at least 7% and most preferably at least 10% of the starting pore size. In this case, the average starting pore size is preferred based on.

The Pore size is preferred with a confocal Laser scanning microscope determined. The measurement of pore size takes place preferably in the face, for example on the nose, the chin, the cheeks and / or the forehead. Especially preferred is the measurement of pore size on the forehead of the Volunteers.

The average exit pore size becomes over the arithmetic mean of each determined size the pores of one or preferably more than one subject prior to treatment with a composition containing the invention according to used fluorocarbon determined.

Proof of efficacy:

Two formulations (with and without 0.02% by weight of perfluorodecalin) were tested on 10 volunteers in the Be rich forehead twice a day for 6 weeks. The pore size was measured before and after by confocal laser scanning microscopy and the average pore size was obtained by arithmetic averaging over all readings. Result: Formulation 1 (with 0.02% by weight of perfluorodecalin) Formulation 2 (without 0.02% by weight perfluorodecalin) previously after 4 weeks of treatment after 6 weeks of treatment previously after 6 weeks of treatment Pore size (μm) 390 363 324 359 353

• * 20 Gew.-% Perfluorodecalin, 20 Gew.-% Glycerin, 20 Gew.-% Propandiol-1,2, 1,5 Gew.-% Glycosphingolipide, 2 Gew.-% PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides, 8,5 Gew.-% Jojobaöl, 28 Gew.-% Wasser

Liste der verwendeten Rohstoffe Cutina MD INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (äquimolare Mischung aus Glycerylmonostearat und Glyceryldistearat) Cognis Dow Corning 9040 Cyclomethicone (90 Gew.-%) and Dimethicone Crosspolymer (10 Gew.-%) Dow Corning DSH-C N Water, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate Exsymol Lipochroman-6 DIMETHYLMETHOXY CHROMANOL Lipotec NOVATA AB PH Cocoglycerides Cognis Simulgel^® NS Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyltaurate Copolymer, Squalane, Polysorbate 60 Seppic The 0.02 wt% perfluorodecalin formulation shows a highly significant pore size reduction of 16.9% of the starting pore size. Other parameters, such as. B. epidermis thickness were not affected. test formulation Hydrogenated lecithin 1 isopropyl 4 dibutyl 2 Vitamin E acetate 0.5 Cutina MD 1 Cetearyl Alcohol 0.5 NOVATA FROM PH 2 behenyl 2 Silicone oil (kinematic viscosity at 20 ° C: 350 cSt) 0.5 Propylparaben 0.2 Dow Corning 9040 1 talc 1 Titanium dioxide (E 171) 0.5 Glycerin 86% vegetable 4.5 1,6-hexanediol 6 methylparaben 0.2 Carbomer 0.4 DSH-C N 5 Lipochroman-6 0.01 1,2-propanediol 5 Perfume 0.3 FD & C Red No. 40 0.0001 Phenoxyethanol, pure 0.4 Simulgel NS 1.5 Sodium hydroxide beads 0.046 Liposome-encapsulated perfluorodecalin preparation * 0.1 Water, demineralized ad 100

• * 20% by weight of perfluorodecalin, 20% by weight of glycerol, 20% by weight of 1,2-propanediol, 1.5% by weight of glycosphingolipi de, 2% by weight PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides, 8.5% by weight jojoba oil, 28% by weight water

List of raw materials used Cutina MD INCI: Glyceryl stearate (equimolar mixture of glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl distearate) Cognis Dow Corning 9040 Cyclomethicone (90% by weight) and Dimethicone Crosspolymer (10% by weight) Dow Corning DSH-C N Water, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate Exsymol Lipochroman-6 DIMETHYL METHOXY CHROMANOL Lipotec NOVATA FROM PH Cocoglycerides Cognis Simulgel ^® NS Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyltaurate copolymer, squalane, polysorbate 60 Seppic

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• US 4366169 [0007]
• - US 4569784 [0007]
• - EP 296661 A [0007]
• - WO 91/00110 A [0007]
• - WO 92/06676 A [0007]
• WO 2005/016309 A1 [0007]
• - EP 647131 A [0007]
• - US 7402669 B2 [0038]
• - DE 10333245 A [0063]
• DE 102004011968 A [0063]
• WO 92/13829 [0069]
• - EP 709080 A2 [0111]
• - EP 775698 [0121, 0125, 0126]
• - EP 878469 [0121]
• - EP 1027881 [0121]
• - DE 4413686 [0167, 0169]

Claims (17)

Cosmetic, non-therapeutic use at least one fluorocarbon which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound represents at least 90% in numbers, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, exceptionally preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol has, in a topical composition for reducing the Pore size of the skin, especially the facial skin. Use according to claim 1, characterized characterized in that the at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated Hydrocarbon compound is in the numerical at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, most preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms other than C, F and optionally H has no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under Normal conditions exist as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol, in the topical Composition in a total amount of 0.01-2% by weight, preferably 0.02-1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-0.5 Wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the topical composition, is included. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound the number of at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, extraordinarily preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol which is selected from aliphatic straight-chain and branched fluoroalkanes, mono-, bi-, tri- or tetracyclic and optionally fluoroalkyl-substituted fluorocycloalkanes, bis (perfluoroalkyl) -1,2-ethenes and their mixtures. Use according to claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that the at least one fluorocarbon, the at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound represents at least 90% in numbers, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, exceptionally preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol has, enriched with gaseous oxygen, preferably saturated with gaseous oxygen is. Use according to claim 1, 2, 3 or 4, characterized in that the at least one fluorocarbon is enclosed in liposomes or vesicles. Use according to claim 5, characterized in that the liposomes or vesicle-forming substances are selected from phospholipids, sphingolipids, glycosphingolipids, ethoxylated mono-, di- or triesters of glycerol with at least one C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ carboxylic acid, and mixtures of these substances. Use according to claim 6, characterized in that the ethoxylated mono-, di- or triesters of glycerol with at least one C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ -carboxylic acid are selected from those compounds which are 20 to 120, preferably 40 to 100, particularly preferably 60 to 90, most preferably 75 to 80 ethylene oxide units per molecule. Use according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that the of the liposomes or vesicles enclosed oil phase at least 50 wt .-%, preferably at least 70 wt .-%, of at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated Hydrocarbon compound is in the numerical at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, most preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms other than C, F and optionally H has no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under Normal conditions exist as a liquid and a molecular weight from 250-700 g / mol, wherein the quantity given to the total weight of the liposomes or Vesicles enclosed oil phase refers. Use according to claim 1, 2, 3, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8, characterized in that at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound, in the number of at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, extremely preferred 100% of the hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms which, apart from C, F and optionally H, have no further heteroatoms in the molecule, are present under normal conditions as a liquid and have a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol, and at least one sebum-regulating active substance, selected from azelaic acid, azelaic acid derivatives, sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-decanediol, mixtures of sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid and 1,10-decanediol, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid, tannic acid, gallotannins, naringin, yeast protein hydrolysates and PEG-8 isolauryl thioethers, are included. Use according to claim 1, 2, 3, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or 9, characterized in that at least one Fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound represents at least 90% in numbers, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, exceptionally preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol and at least one filler is included. Use according to claim 1, 2, 3, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, characterized in that at least a fluorocarbon which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound represents at least 90% in numbers, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, exceptionally preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol and at least one skin-soothing active ingredient are. Use according to claim 1, 2, 3, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 or 11, characterized in that at least a fluorocarbon which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound represents at least 90% in numbers, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, exceptionally preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol and containing at least one moisturizing agent are. Use according to claim 1, 2, 3, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 or 12, characterized that at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound represents at least 90% in numbers, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, exceptionally preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol and at least one active ingredient selected from α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids, or the ester, lactone or salt forms of these acids, are included. Use according to claim 1, 2, 3, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 or 13, characterized in that at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound represents at least 90% in numbers, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, exceptionally preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol and at least one polyphenol are included. Use according to claim 1, 2, 3, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 or 14, characterized that at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound represents at least 90% in numbers, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, exceptionally preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol and at least one active ingredient selected from Flavonoids and isoflavonoids, are included. Use according to claim 1, 2, 3, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 or 15, characterized that at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound represents at least 90% in numbers, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, exceptionally preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol and containing at least one antimicrobial agent are. Non-therapeutic, cosmetic procedure for Reducing the pore size of the skin, characterized that at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound represents at least 90% in numbers, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, exceptionally preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol or a composition containing at least one fluorocarbon, which is a perfluorinated hydrocarbon compound the number of at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 98%, extraordinarily preferably 100% of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms, except C, F and optionally H no further heteroatoms in the molecule, under normal conditions as a liquid and a molecular weight in the range of 250-700 g / mol which is applied to the skin.