DE102011089470A1 - Biomimetic compositions for skin cleansing and care - Google Patents

Abstract

The present application relates to skin, in particular sensitive skin, to be applied for cleansing and care of the skin. In order for the compositions to be particularly mild and very well tolerated, biomimetic emulsions are used in the compositions of the invention. The present invention describes jojoba milk as a new raw material for cleansing and conditioning compositions. The biomimetic "milk" according to the invention contains, in addition to a plant extract, proteins, at least one emulsifier, triglycerides, water and optionally opacifiers.

Description

The present application relates to the skin, in particular sensitive skin, to be applied means for cleaning - and care of the skin. In order for the compositions to be particularly mild and very well tolerated, biomimetic emulsions are used in the compositions of the invention. The present invention describes jojoba milk as a new raw material for cleansing and conditioning compositions. The biomimetic "milk" according to the invention contains, in addition to a plant extract, proteins, at least one emulsifier, triglycerides, water and optionally opacifiers.

Biomimetic means to use nature as a model to provide new compositions with better properties than nature and the state of the art.

Washing, cleansing and caring for one's own body is a fundamental human need, and modern industry is constantly trying to meet these needs of man in a variety of ways. In addition to the basic functions - skin cleansing and subsequent conditioning of the skin with fats and moisturisers - modern skincare products should also meet specific consumer requirements. Thus, the state of the art knows anti-wrinkle agents with active ingredients intended to slow down certain processes of skin aging, sunscreens with UV-absorbing filter substances, and skin lighteners which contain active ingredients which break down the skin's own melanin. The consumer also wants to experience an emotional effect that can be felt for him, a feeling of "feeling good", of "calm" and / or balanced feeling, depending on the situation but also an invigorating feeling, a stimulating feeling in the application of the perceive different cosmetic compositions. This is insufficiently fulfilled by today's cosmetic compositions for the consumer.

The compositions should be based predominantly on ingredients which are obtained from natural raw materials, and which have been modified with as few chemical process steps and thus come as close as possible to the natural ingredients.

In the past, attempts have been made over and over again with natural emulsions, for example donkey milk, oils and waxes, for example the rape-seed oil of waterfowl, to solve this problem. However, these attempts have proved unsuccessful. Both the availability and the stabilities, for example against microbial attack, as well as the deposition of significantly high levels of oils and waxes on the skin of great disadvantage. None of these natural emulsions, oils and waxes has therefore been successful.

The object of the present invention is to significantly improve the conditioning properties, the gloss and the skin hydration and suppleness of the skin in the application of compositions for skin treatment and also to give them additionally sensory, especially tactile effects. The compositions should be based predominantly on ingredients which are obtained from natural raw materials, and which have been modified with as few chemical process steps and thus come as close as possible to the natural ingredients.

Surprisingly, it has now been shown that biomimetic emulsions are outstandingly suitable for cleansing and care of the skin. By biomimetic emulsions are meant emulsions which mimic the naturally occurring emulsions in their properties and composition. This mimic of the properties with respect to the positive effects on the skin, for example, long-lasting skin hydration, less wrinkling, higher gloss, firm internal structure, pleasant feel and good feel of the skin is achieved in an outstanding manner by the biomimetic emulsions according to the invention.

• a. mindestens ein Triglycerid in einer Gesamtmenge von 2,5 bis 25,0 Gew. %,
• b. mindestens einen Pflanzenextrakt in einer Gesamtmenge von 1,0 bis 60,0 Gew. %,
• c. mindestens ein Proteinhydrolysat in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01 bis 7,5 Gew. % und
• d. mindestens ein nichtionisches Tensid und/oder mindestens einen nichtionischen Emulgator und/oder mindestens ein Phospholipid in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 7,5 Gew. %.

A first subject of the present invention are therefore cosmetic compositions for cleansing and care of the skin, contained in a suitable cosmetic carrier in each case based on the total amount of the composition,

• a. at least one triglyceride in a total amount of 2.5 to 25.0% by weight,
• b. at least one plant extract in a total amount of 1.0 to 60.0% by weight,
• c. at least one protein hydrolyzate in a total amount of 0.01 to 7.5% by weight and
• d. at least one nonionic surfactant and / or at least one nonionic emulsifier and / or at least one phospholipid in a total amount of 0.1 to 7.5 wt.%.

While predominantly small amounts of fatty substances, preferably fatty alcohol, are stabilized in the prior art with the aid of PEG-containing emulsifiers, in the present invention, surprisingly, high amounts of oils or fats are stably emulsified as triglycerides. Thus, the biomimetic emulsions of the invention are milder, based on near-natural, largely natural raw materials and significantly increased in effect over the conventional emulsions.

As far as below the active ingredient complex (A) is spoken, this statement refers to the ingredients contained in the inventive compositions a) to d).

According to the invention, O / W, W / O and W / O / W emulsions in the form of creams or gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as, for example, shower baths or other preparations, which are particularly suitable for use, are suitable as cosmetic carriers the skin are suitable. The cosmetic carriers may in particular be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.

An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers include aqueous solutions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₆ -alcohol, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-Pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol or 1,6-hexanediol to understand. The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, for example methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents. Particularly preferred is water.

The ingredient a) according to claim 1 is a triglyceride which has at least one mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid having a carbon chain length of at least 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, the triglyceride underlying this oil or fat is constructed to have at least two monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acids having a carbon chain length of at least 18 carbon atoms. However, it is particularly preferred if the triglycerides on which these oils or fats are based have three monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acids having a chain length of at least 18 carbon atoms. An example of these oils and fats with a chain length of at least 18 carbon atoms is tea seed oil. Examples of at least two mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acids having a carbon chain of at least 18 C atoms are amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, cottonseed oil, babassu oil, cashew nut oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia nut oil, almond oil, marula oil, olive oil, palm oil, rice oil , Sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil. Apricot kernel oil, argan oil, babassu oil, macadamia nut oil, almond oil, marula oil, olive oil, sunflower oil or grape seed oil are preferred among these. Examples of mono-, di- and polyunsaturated fatty acids having a carbon chain of at least 18 C atoms are borage seed oil, camelina oil, goose fat, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, salmon oil or other fish oils from high-fat fish, linseed oil, lychee oil, corn oil , Evening primrose oil, rambutan oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, soybean oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, and rosehip oil. Of course, synthetic triglycerides such as the raw material Cegesoft ^® PS6 (Cognis) can be used. Of course, all other fats and oils, provided they meet the requirements of the content of unsaturated fatty acids having a carbon chain length of at least 18 carbon atoms, are suitable oils and fats.

The triglycerides as ingredient a) according to claim 1 are contained in an amount of 2.5 to 25.0 wt.%, Preferably 5.0 to 20.0 wt.% And particularly preferably from 8.0 to 15 wt.% Contained. The ingredient b) according to claim 1 is a plant extract. According to the invention are especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, jojoba, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot , Lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root and Ayurvedic plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala), sweet grasses such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, maize, the various varieties of millet (millet, crab, millet as examples), sugarcane, pasture grass, meadow foxtail, oat grass, ostrich grass, meadow fescue, whistling grass, bamboo, cotton grass, lamprey grass, Andropogonodeae (Imperata Cylindrica also called grass of flame or cogon grass), buffalo grass, mud grass, canine grasses, love grasses, cymbopogon (lemongrass), oryzeae (rice), Zizania (wild rice), marram grass, perennial oats, honey grasses, shiver grasses, bluegrass, couch grass and Echinacea, in particular Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (Norton), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (Mc Gregor), Echinacea laevigata , Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt), all types of wine and Perikarp preferred by Litchie chinensis.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. Based on the active ingredient content of the respective plant extract, plant extracts are used in amounts such that in the compositions according to the invention active ingredient contents of the respective extract are present in an amount of 0.001 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5.0% by weight and more preferably from 0.01 to 3.0% by weight.

Based on the particular plant extract per se, as it is, plant extracts are used in a total amount of 1.0 to 60.0% by weight.

The total amount of ingredients a) and b) based on the contents of active ingredient in the ingredient in a) or b) is at least 5.0% by weight, preferably at least 8.0% by weight, particularly preferably at least 15.0 % By weight and most preferably at least 20.0% by weight.

The ingredient c) according to claim 1 is a protein hydrolyzate. Suitable protein hydrolysates are protein hydrolysates based on both animal and plant, marine or bacterial origin of the underlying proteins. The protein hydrolysates can be obtained both by an acidic, basic, acidic-enzymatic, basic-enzymatic as well as exclusively by enzymatic hydrolysis. Particular preference is given to protein hydrolyzates which have been obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis. The protein hydrolysates according to the invention no longer exhibit any enzymatic activity. The protein hydrolyzates of the present invention have a molecular weight between 500 Da and 5,000,000 Da, preferably at least 1,000 Da to 2,000,000 Da, more preferably at least 10,000 Da to 1,000,000 Da, more preferably at least 15,000 Da to 500,000 Da, and most preferably at least 15,000 Da up to 100,000 Da on. Examples of protein hydrolysates according to the invention are protein hydrolysates based on collagen, gelatin, albumin, egg protein, lupine protein, wheat protein, potato protein, rape protein, soy protein and milk proteins. Preferred protein hydrolysates are protein hydrolysates based on egg protein, collagen, gelatin, soy protein, albumin and milk. Particularly preferred are protein hydrolysates based on milk. A milk protein is also the casein. Most preferably, the milk protein hydrolysates are derived from milk proteins in which the casein has been previously separated by precipitation so that these milk proteins are free of casein except for minor impurities in the production of the hydrolysates. Common milk proteins often contain lactose. A useful with particular preference milk protein hydrolyzate is present in the raw material Tego ^® Emulprot ^® or LACTOLAN ^® PW.

The protein hydrolysates are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight and most preferably from Contain 0.1 to 1.5 wt.%. The sum of the ingredients from a) and b) is at least 10 times greater, preferably at least 20 times, more preferably 50 times greater than the amount of protein hydrolyzate.

The ingredient d) according to claim 1 is a nonionic surfactant and / or a nonionic emulsifier and / or a phospholipid.

As the phospholipid, both natural and synthetic phospholipids are useful.

Preferred are phospholipids on a natural basis. As phospholipids in particular compounds of the formula (phosphol-I) can be used.

In the formula (phosphol-1), y is an integer of 0 to 2, x is an integer of 1 to 3, provided that the sum of x and y is 3.

In the phospholipids of the formula (phosphol-1), furthermore, M is hydrogen, one equivalent of an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium cation or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups. Particularly preferred are compounds in which M is a sodium cation.

Furthermore, B in the formula (Phosphol-I) of the phospholipids to be used according to the invention is one equivalent of a physiologically tolerated anion. As the anion, e.g. Chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfate, perchlorate, tetrafluoroborate, tetraphenylborate and tetrachlorozincate.

Preferably, the chloride ion.

in der z für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 4, insbesondere für 3, steht und R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander für einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest stehen, der gegebenenfalls mit einer oder mehreren Hydroxygruppe(n) oder einer Acylgruppe substituiert ist. R in the formula (phosphol-1) is a radical of the formula (II)

in which z is an integer from 1 to 4, in particular 3, and R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical which is optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy group (s) or an acyl group is substituted.

A represents, according to the invention, one of the moieties -O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ - or -O-CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -, where the moiety is -O-CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ - is particularly preferred.

• (a) einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten, gesättigten C₈- bis C₁₈-Acylrest oder
• (b) einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten, einfach oder mehrfach ungesättigten C₈- bis C₁₈-Acylrest.

The radical R ³ stands for

• (a) a branched or unbranched, saturated C ₈ to C ₁₈ acyl radical or
• (B) a branched or unbranched, mono- or polyunsaturated C ₈ - to C ₁₈ acyl radical.

Particularly preferred saturated radicals R ³ are the radical of stearic acid and also the radicals of the mixture of the fatty acids which are obtained from coconut oil.

A particularly preferred unsaturated radical R ³ is the radical of linoleic acid.

Examples of the C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl groups mentioned as substituents in the compounds according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl and butyl. Ethyl and methyl groups are preferred alkyl groups. Very particular preference is given to methyl groups. Very particularly preferred phospholipids of the formula (phosphol-1) are the substances known under the INCI names linoleneamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates and stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates. These are sold, for example, by the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid ^EFA® , Phospholipid ^PTC® and Phospholipid ^SV® .

Furthermore, the glycerol phospholipids, which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines, for example from egg yolk or plant seeds, in particular soybeans, are used as phospholipids according to the invention. Phospholipids are in particular phosphoglycerides.

In general, all phosphoglycerides are suitable. With preference, the compounds described in more detail below are used. Glycero-phospholipids which are particularly suitable according to the invention are obtained from soybeans. Of these, the phosphatidylcholines, phosphatidylethanolamines, phosphatidylserines and phosphatidylinositols and mixtures of these substances are particularly preferred.

in der die Reste R¹ und R² jeweils unabhängig voneinander eine Acylgruppe aus Fettsäuren mit einer Kohlenstoffanzahl von 8–30 C-Atomen, bevorzugt 10–24 und besonders bevorzugt 12–22 C-Atomen, darstellen. Die Fettsäurereste können sowohl gesättigt als auch einfach oder mehrfach ungesättigt sein. Bevorzugt sind die gesättigten Acylreste von C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuren. Besonders bevorzugt sind die Acylreste der Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure, Arachinsäure und Behensäure. The particularly preferred phosphatidylcholines have the formula (phosphol-II),

in which the radicals R ¹ and R ² each independently represent an acyl group of fatty acids having a carbon number of 8-30 carbon atoms, preferably 10-24 and particularly preferably 12-22 C atoms. The fatty acid residues can be both saturated and monounsaturated or polyunsaturated. Preference is given to the saturated acyl radicals of C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids. Especially preferred are the acyl radicals of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachic acid and behenic acid.

in denen die Reste R¹ und R² dieselbe Bedeutung haben wie für Formel (Phosphol-III) dargestellt. Besonders bevorzugt sind Phosphatidylethanolamine, bei denen R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander gesättigte Acylreste von Fettsäuren mit 16 oder 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere einen Palmitoyl- oder Stearoyl-Rest, darstellen. The preferred phosphatidylethanolamines according to the invention are those of the formula (phosphol-IIa) or (phosphol-IIb),

in which the radicals R ¹ and R ^{2 have the} same meaning as shown for formula (phosphol-III). Particular preference is given to phosphatidylethanolamines in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another represent saturated acyl radicals of fatty acids having 16 or 18 carbon atoms, in particular a palmitoyl or stearoyl radical.

in denen R¹ und R² dieselbe Bedeutung haben wie für Formel (Phosphol-II) dargestellt. Besonders bevorzugt sind Phosphatidylserine, bei denen R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander gesättigte Acylreste von Fettsäuren mit 16 oder 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere einen Palmitoyl- oder Stearoyl-Rest, darstellen. The phosphatidylserines preferred according to the invention are those of the structural formula (IIIa) or (IIIb)

in which R ¹ and R ^{2 have the} same meaning as shown for formula (phosphol-II). Particular preference is given to phosphatidylserines in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another represent saturated acyl radicals of fatty acids having 16 or 18 carbon atoms, in particular a palmitoyl or stearoyl radical.

bei der die Reste R¹ und R² dieselbe Bedeutung haben wie für Formel (Phosphol-II) dargelegt. Für R¹ sind Acylreste aus Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure und Arachinsäure bevorzugt; besonders bevorzugt ist ein Stearinsäureacylrest. R² stellt in besonders bevorzugter Weise einen linearen gesättigten C₂₀-Fettsäureacylrest (Arachoylrest) dar. The phosphatidylinositols preferred according to the invention have the structural formula (IVa) or (IVb)

in which the radicals R ¹ and R ^{2 have the} same meaning as set forth for formula (phosphol-II). For R ¹ , acyl radicals of palmitic acid, stearic acid and arachidic acid are preferred; particularly preferred is a stearic acid acyl radical. R ² is most preferably a linear saturated C ₂₀ fatty acid acyl radical (arachoyl radical).

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions of the present invention are stabilized with a mixture of cured glycerophospholipids substantially corresponding to the composition of hydrogenated natural soybean lecithin. The glycerophospholipids used according to the invention have an iodine value of not more than 10, preferably of not more than 5.

According to the invention it is also possible to use a mixture of several phospholipids. An inventively preferred phospholipid is 100 (Cognis) commercially available under the name Emulmetik ^®.

The phospholipids according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of from 0% by weight to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight up to 5% by weight, very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.01% by weight. up to 3% by weight and most preferably in amounts of from 0.1 up to 1.5% by weight.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, die Fettalkoholpolyglykolether bzw. die Fettalkoholpolypropylenglykolether bzw. gemischte Fettalkoholpolyether,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, die Fettsäurepolyglykolether bzw. die Fettsäurepolypropylenglykolether bzw. gemischte Fettsäurepolyether,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, die Alkylphenolpolyglykolether bzw. die Alkylpolypropylenglykolether, bzw. gemischte Alyklphenolpolyether,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol^®-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (E4-I) R¹CO-(OCH₂CHR²)_wOR³ (E4-I) in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether, wie sie beispielsweise in der DE-OS 19738866 beschrieben sind,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäß Formel (E4-II), R⁴O-[G]_p (E4-II) in der R⁴ für einen Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht. Sie können nach den einschlägigen Verfahren der präparativen organischen Chemie erhalten werden. Die Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside können sich von Aldosen bzw. Ketosen mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, vorzugsweise von Glucose, ableiten. Die bevorzugten Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside sind somit Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglucoside. Die Indexzahl p in der allgemeinen Formel (E4-II) gibt den Oligomerisierungsgrad (DP), d. h. die Verteilung von Mono- und Oligoglykosiden an und steht für eine Zahl zwischen 1 und 10. Während p im einzelnen Molekül stets ganzzahlig sein muß und hier vor allem die Werte p = 1 bis 6 annehmen kann, ist der Wert p für ein bestimmtes Alkyloligoglykosid eine analytisch ermittelte rechnerische Größe, die meistens eine gebrochene Zahl darstellt. Vorzugsweise werden Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside mit einem mittleren Oligomerisierungsgrad p von 1,1 bis 3,0 eingesetzt. Aus anwendungstechnischer Sicht sind solche Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside bevorzugt, deren Oligomerisierungsgrad kleiner als 1,7 ist und insbesondere zwischen 1,2 und 1,4 liegt. Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R⁴ kann sich von primären Alkoholen mit 4 bis 11, vorzugsweise 8 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Butanol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol und Undecylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, wie sie beispielsweise bei der Hydrierung von technischen Fettsäuremethylestern oder im Verlauf der Hydrierung von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese erhalten werden. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloligoglucoside der Kettenlänge C₈-C₁₀ (DP = 1 bis 3), die als Vorlauf bei der destillativen Auftrennung von technischem C₈-C₁₈-Kokosfettalkohol anfallen und mit einem Anteil von weniger als 6 Gew.-% C₁₂-Alkohol verunreinigt sein können sowie Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis technischer C_9/11-Oxoalkohole (DP = 1 bis 3). Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R¹⁵ kann sich ferner auch von primären Alkoholen mit 12 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 14 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol, Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Gemische, die wie oben beschrieben erhalten werden können. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis von gehärtetem C_12/14-Kokosalkohol mit einem DP von 1 bis 3.
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide, ein nichtionisches Tensid der Formel (E4-III), R⁵CO-NR⁶-[Z] (E4-III) in der R⁵CO für einen aliphatischen Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R⁶ für Wasserstoff, einen Alkyl- oder Hydroxyalkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und [Z] für einen linearen oder verzweigten Polyhydroxyalkylrest mit 3 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen und 3 bis 10 Hydroxylgruppen steht. Bei den Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamiden handelt es sich um bekannte Stoffe, die üblicherweise durch reduktive Aminierung eines reduzierenden Zuckers mit Ammoniak, einem Alkylamin oder einem Alkanolamin und nachfolgende Acylierung mit einer Fettsäure, einem Fettsäurealkylester oder einem Fettsäurechlorid erhalten werden können. Vorzugsweise leiten sich die Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide von reduzierenden Zuckern mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere von der Glucose ab. Die bevorzugten Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide stellen daher Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide dar, wie sie durch die Formel (E4-IV) wiedergegeben werden: R⁷CO-(NR⁸)-CH₂-[CH(OH)]₄-CH₂OH (E4-IV) Vorzugsweise werden als Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide Glucamide der Formel (E4-IV) eingesetzt, in der R⁸ für Wasserstoff oder eine Alkylgruppe steht und R⁷CO für den Acylrest der Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure oder Erucasäure bzw. derer technischer Mischungen steht. Besonders bevorzugt sind Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide der Formel (E4-IV), die durch reduktive Aminierung von Glucose mit Methylamin und anschließende Acylierung mit Laurinsäure oder C12/14-Kokosfettsäure beziehungsweise einem entsprechenden Derivat erhalten werden. Weiterhin können sich die Polyhydroxyalkylamide auch von Maltose und Palatinose ableiten.

Such compounds are, for example

• Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or the fatty alcohol polypropyleneglycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers,
• Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty acid polyglycol ethers or the fatty acid polyethers or mixed fatty acid polyethers,
• Addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, the alkylphenol polyglycol ethers or the alkylpolypropylene glycol ethers, or mixed alkylpolyolpolyethers,
• - with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as are sold under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, Dehydol ^® LT types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® grades (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (E4-I) in the R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
• - amine oxides,
• - Hydroxymischether, as described for example in the DE-OS 19738866 are described
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II), R ⁴ O- [G] _p (E4-II) in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be integer and here before For all given values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides of the chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) which are obtained as a feedstock in the distillative separation of technical C ₈ -C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol and in a proportion of less than 6% by weight C ₁₂ - Alcohol may be contaminated as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C _12/14 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3.
• Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (E4-III), R ⁵ CO-NR ⁶ - [Z] (E4-III) R ^{5 is} CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV): R ⁷ CO- (NR ⁸ ) -CH ₂ - [CH (OH)] ₄ -CH ₂ OH (E4-IV) The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R ^{8 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ^{7 is} CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

The sugar surfactants may be contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1-7.5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-5.0 wt .-% are preferred, and very particularly preferred amounts of 0.5-3.0 wt.%. Further typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, mixed ethers and polysorbates.

As preferred nonionic surfactants, the alkylene oxide adducts to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid and the sugar surfactants have proven. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.

These connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred to start from the production of these substances from native plant or animal raw materials, so as to obtain substance mixtures with different, depending on the particular raw material alkyl chain lengths.

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

Typical examples of nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, polyglycerol esters, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers, alk (en) yloligoglycosides or glucuronic acid derivatives - optionally partially oxidized -, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, polyol fatty acid esters , Sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution.

Preferred nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers are selected from ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkanols with an average of 5-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -carboxylic acids with an average of 5-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, silicone Copolyols with ethylene oxide units or with ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs, ethoxylated sterols, partial esters of polyglycerols having 2 to 10 glycerol units and having 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated , linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid residues esterified, if they have an HLB value of more than 7, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, wherein the weight-average HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier preferably 11 -17, more preferably 12-15, and most preferably 13-14. The ethoxylated C ₈ - C ₂₄ -alkanols have the formula R ¹ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n H, where R ¹ is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers of 5-100, preferably 10-30 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol , Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. Adducts of 5-100 mol, preferably 10-30 mol, of ethylene oxide with technical fatty alcohols having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are suitable.

Particularly preferred nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers are selected from the group consisting of ceteth-12, ceteth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-12, steareth-20, steareth-30, laureth-12 and beheneth-20, and mixtures thereof.

The ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -carboxylic acids have the formula R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n OH, where R ¹ is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide Units per molecule, for numbers of 5-100, preferably 10-30 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, cetylic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid and their technical mixtures. Also, adducts of 5-100 mol, preferably 10-30 mol, of ethylene oxide with technical fatty acids having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acid, are suitable. Particularly preferred are PEG-50 monostearate, PEG-100 monostearate, PEG-50 monooleate, PEG-100 monooleate, PEG-50 monolaurate and PEG-100 monolaurate.

Particular preference is given to using the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -carboxylic acids with in each case 10-30 units of ethylene oxide per molecule and mixtures of these substances.

Furthermore, preference is given to using C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides. C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides are known, commercially available surfactants and emulsifiers. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8-22 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside radical, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar radical is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8, preferably 1-2, are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products. Products which are obtainable under the trademark Plantacare ^®, a glucosidically bonded C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl group containing at an oligoglucoside residue whose average degree of oligomerization is 1-2. Particularly preferred C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are selected from octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, palmityl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside and behenyl glucoside and mixtures thereof. The glucamine-derived acylglucamides are also suitable as non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifiers.

Ethoxylated sterols, in particular ethoxylated soy sterols, are suitable oil-in-water emulsifiers according to the invention. The degree of ethoxylation must be greater than 5, preferably at least 10, in order to have an HLB value greater than 7. Suitable commercial products are, for. PEG-10 Soy Sterol, PEG-16 Soy Sterol and PEG-25 Soy Sterol.

Furthermore, preferably partial esters of polyglycerols with 2 to 10 glycerol units and with 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid esters esterified used, provided that they have an HLB value of more than 7. Particularly preferred are Diglycerinmonocaprylat, Diglycerinmonocaprat, diglycerol, Triglycerinmonocaprylat, Triglycerinmonocaprat, triglycerol, Tetraglycerinmonocaprylat, Tetraglycerinmonocaprat, Tetraglycerinmonolaurat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprylat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprat, Pentaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprylat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprat, Hexaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonomyristat, Hexaglycerinmonostearat, Decaglycerinmonocaprylat, Decaglycerinmonocaprat, decaglyceryl monolaurate, decaglyceryl monomyristate, Decaglycerinmonoisostearat, decaglycerol monostearate, Decaglycerinmonooleat , Decaglycerinmonohydroxystearat, Decaglycerindicaprylat, Decaglycerindicaprat, Decaglycerindilaurat, Decaglycerindimyristat, Decaglycerindiisostearat, Decaglycerindistearat, Decaglycerindioleat, Decaglycerindihydroxystearat, Decaglycerintricaprylat, Decaglycerintricaprat, Decaglycerintrilaurat, Decaglycerintrimyristat, Decaglycerintriisostearat, Decaglycerintristearat, Decaglycer intrioleate and decaglycerol trihydroxystearate.

The nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers may, inter alia, also be introduced by commercially available gel-forming polymer preparations, albeit only in small amounts, based on the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention.

It is preferred according to the invention for at least one nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier or one nonionic surfactant to be present in a total amount of 0.01-7.5% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5-4.0 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.5-3.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition is included.

The biomimetic emulsion according to the invention, as described above, can already be used as such for the cleansing and care of the skin on the skin. Preferably, however, other cosmetic raw materials are added to these biomimetic emulsions. These other raw materials are well known to those skilled in the art. They are selected according to the orientation of the composition, cleansing or care products.

In addition, all ingredients known to the person skilled in the art and customary for cleaning compositions can be added to the compositions according to the invention.

A first optional ingredient of the compositions of the invention is a surfactant. Surface-active substances are both surfactants and emulsifiers. Surfactants which may be present are anionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants or emulsifiers or any desired mixture of these surfactants / emulsifiers. The content of surfactants depends on the type of formulation but usually does not exceed 20% by weight.

Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, alpha-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates , Mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acyl amino acids such as acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution.

Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl 3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (Tampho) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

• – quartäre Imidazolinverbindung. Die im folgenden dargestellte Formel Quimi-I zeigt die Struktur dieser Verbindungen.
  
  Die Reste R stehen unabhängig voneinander jeweils für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen. Die bevorzugten Verbindungen der Formel I enthalten für R jeweils den gleichen Kohlenwasserstoffrest. Die Kettenlänge der Reste R beträgt bevorzugt 12 bis 21 Kohlenstoffatome. Besonders erfindungsgemäße Beispiele sind beispielsweise unter den INCII-Bezeichnungen Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 und Quaternium-91 erhältlich.
• – kationische Tenside gemäß der Formel (Tkat-2), RCO-X-N⁺R¹R²R³ A^– (Tkat-2) R steht hierin für einen substituierten oder unsubstituierten, verzweigten oder geradkettigen Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit 11 bis 35 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Kette, X steht für -O- oder -NR⁵-, R¹ steht für eine Alkylengruppe mit 2 bis 6 C-Atomen, welche nicht substituiert oder substituiert sein kann, wobei im Falle einer Substitution die Substitution mit einer -OH- oder -NH-Gruppe bevorzugt ist, R², R³ jeweils unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine Alkyl oder Hydroxyalkylgruppe mit 1 bis zu 6 C-Atomen in der Kette, wobei die Kette geradlinig oder verzweigt sein kann. R5 steht für Wasserstoff oder einen C1 bis C6 geradkettigen oder verzweigten, Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest, welcher auch durch eine Hydroxygruppe substituiert sein kann. Innerhalb dieser Strukturklasse werden bevorzugt die Verbindungen einer der folgenden Strukturen verwendet:

CH₃(CH₂)₂₀CONH(CH₂)₃-N⁺(CH₃)₂-CH₂CH₃ A^– (Tkat-3) CH₃(CH₂)₂₀CONH(CH₂)₃-N⁺(CH₃)₂-CH₂(CHOH)CH₂OH A^– (Tkat-4) CH₃(CH₂)₂₀COOCH₂CHOHCH₂-N⁺(CH₃)₃ A^– (Tkat-5) CH₃(CH₂)₂₀CONH(CH₂)₃-N⁺(CH₃)₂-CH₂CH₂OH A^– (Tkat-6) Beispiele für derartige Handelsprodukte sind Schercoquat BAS, Lexquat AMG-BEO, Akypoquat 131 oder Incroquat Behenyl HE.

• – Esterquats gemäß der Formel (Tkat1-2) verwendet werden.
  
  Hierin sind die Reste R1, R2 und R3 jeweils unabhängig voneinander und können gleich oder verschieden sein. Die Reste R1, R2 und R3 bedeuten: – ein verzweigter oder unverzweigter Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder – ein gesättigter oder ungesättigter, verzweigter oder unverzweigter oder ein cyclischer gesättigter oder ungesättigter Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder – ein Aryl oder Alkarylrest, beispielsweise Phenyl oder Benzyl, – den Rest (-A-R4), mit der Maßgabe, daß höchstens 2 der Reste R1, R2 oder R3 für diesen Rest stehen können: Der Rest-(A-R4) ist mindestens 1 bis 3 mal enthalten. Hierin steht A für: 1) -(CH2)n- mit n = 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise n = 1 bis 10 und besonders bevorzugt n = 1 – 5, oder 2) -(CH2-CHR5-O)n- mit n = 1 bis 200, vorzugsweise 1 bis 100, besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 50, und besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 20 mit R5 in der Bedeutung von Wasserstoff, Methyl oder Ethyl, und R4 steht für: 1) R6-O-CO-, worin R6 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ist, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxethyliert sein kann, oder 2) R7-CO-, worin R7 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ist, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxethyliert sein kann, und – Q steht für ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion. Solche Produkte werden beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Rewoquat^®, Stepantex^®, Dehyquart^® und Armocare^® vertrieben. Die Produkte Armocare^® VGH-70, ein N,N-Bis(2-Palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium-chlorid, sowie Dehyquart^® F-75, Dehyquart^® C-4046, Dehyquart^® L80, Dehyquart^® F-30, Dehyquart^® AU-35, Rewoquat^® WE18, Rewoquat^® WE38 DPG und Stepantex^® VS 90 sind Beispiele für solche Esterquats. Weitere erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Verbindungen der Formel (Tkat1-2) zählen zur Formel (Tkat1-2.1), den kationischen Betainestern.
  
  R8 entspricht in seiner Bedeutung R7.
• – Monoalkyltrimethylammoniumsalze mit einer Kettenlänge des Alkylrestes von 16 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen entsprechend der Formel (Tkat1-1),
  
  in denen R1, R2 und R3 für jeweils eine Methylgruppe stehen und R4 für einen gesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkylrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 16 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen. Beispiele für Verbindungen der Formel (Tkat1-1) sind Cetyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromid, Cetyltrimethylammoniummethosulfat, Stearyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Behenyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Behenyltrimethylammoniumbromid und Behenyltrimethylammoniummethosulfat.
• – Amine und/oder kationisiertes Amine, insbesondere ein Amidoamin und/oder ein kationisiertes Amidoamin mit den folgenden Strukturformeln: R¹-NH-(CH₂)_n-NR²R³ (Tkat7) und/oder R¹-NH-(CH₂)_n-NR²R³R⁴ (Tkat8) worin R1 ein Acyl- oder Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, welche verzweigt oder unverzweigt, gesättigt oder ungesättigt sein können, und wobei der Acylrest und/oder der Alkylrest mindestens eine OH-Gruppe enthalten können, und R2, R3 und R4 jeweils unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder ein Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 C-Atomen, welcher gleich oder verschieden, gesättigt oder ungesättigt sein kann, und X^– ein Anion und n eine ganze Zahl zwischen 1 und 10 bedeuten. Bevorzugt wird eine Zusammensetzung, in welcher das Amin und/oder das quaternisierte Amin gemäß allgemeiner Formeln (Tkat7) und/oder (Tkat8) ein Amidoamin und/oder ein quaternisiertes Amidoamin ist, worin R1 ein verzweigter oder unverzweigter, gesättigter oder ungesättigter Acylrest mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, welcher mindestens eine OH-Gruppe enthalten kann, bedeutet. Bevorzugt ist hierbei ein Fettsäurerest aus Ölen und Wachsen, insbesondere aus natürlichen Ölen und Wachsen, ist. Als Beispiele hierfür kommen Lanolin, Bienen- oder Candellilawachse in Betracht. Bevorzugt sind auch solche Amidoamine und/oder quaternisierte Amidoamine, in denen R2, R3 und/oder R4 in Formeln (Tkat7) und/oder (Tkat8) ein Rest gemäß der allgemeinen Formel CH₂CH₂OR5 bedeuten, worin R5 die Bedeutung von Alkylresten mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, Hydroxyethyl oder Wasserstoff haben kann. Die bevorzugte Größe von n in den allgemeinen Formeln (Tkat7) und/oder (Tkat8) ist eine ganze Zahl zwischen 2 und 5. Weiterhin bevorzugt sind Amidoamine und/oder quaternisierte Amidoamine der allgemeinen Formeln (Tkat7) und/oder (Tkat8), in denen das Anion X^– ein Halogenidion oder eine Verbindung der allgemeinen Formel RSO₃ ^– ist, worin R die Bedeutung von gesättigtem oder ungesättigtem Alkylresten mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen hat. Der Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen von R2, R3 und R4 und/oder der Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen von RSO₃ ^– in der allgemeinen Formel (Tkat7) und/oder (Tkat8) können mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten. Die Alkylamidoamine können sowohl als solche vorliegen und durch Protonierung in entsprechend saurer Lösung in eine quaternäre Verbindung in der Zusammensetzung überführt werden. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sind die kationischen Alkylamidoamine. Als erfindungsgemäß zu verwendende Amidoamine, welche gegebenenfalls quaternisiert sein können, kommen beispielsweise in Betracht als Amidoamine: Witcamine^® 100 (Witco, INCI-Bezeichnung: Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine), Incromine^® BB (Croda, INCI-Bezeichnung: Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine), Mackine^® 401 (McIntyre, INCI-Bezeichnung: Isostearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine) und andere Mackine-Typen, Adogen^® S18V (Witco, INCI-Bezeichnung: Stearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine), und als permanent kationische Aminoamine: Rewoquat^® RTM 50 (Witco Surfactants GmbH, INCI-Bezeichnung: Ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate), Empigen^® CSC (Albright&Wilson, INCI-Bezeichnung: Cocamidopropyltrimonium Chlorid), Swanol^® Lanoquat DES-50 (Nikko, INCI-Bezeichnung: Quatemium-33), Rewoquat^® UTM 50 (Witco Surfactants GmbH, Undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate).

As cationic surfactants it is possible according to the invention to use all cationic surfactants known and customary to the person skilled in the art. However, it is preferable to dispense with cationic surfactants if possible. If this is not possible, the following cationic surfactants are preferably used. Which includes:

• - Quaternary imidazoline compound. The following formula Quimi-I shows the structure of these compounds.
  
  The radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of the formula I each contain the same hydrocarbon radical for R. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms. Particularly examples according to the invention are obtainable, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91.
• Cationic surfactants according to the formula (Tkat-2), RCO-XN ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ A ^- (Tkat-2) R here stands for a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight-chain alkyl or alkenyl radical having 11 to 35 carbon atoms in the chain, X is -O- or -NR ⁵ -, R ¹ is an alkylene group having 2 to 6 C atoms , which may not be substituted or substituted, wherein substitution with an -OH or -NH group is preferred in the case of a substitution, R ² , R ^{3 are} each independently of one another an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Atoms in the chain, wherein the chain can be straight or branched. R5 is hydrogen or a C1 to C6 straight-chain or branched, alkyl or alkenyl radical which may also be substituted by a hydroxy group. Within this structural class, the compounds of one of the following structures are preferably used:

CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ CONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₃ A ^- (Tkat-3) CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ CONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ (CHOH) CH ₂ OH A ^- (Tkat-4) CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ COOCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ A ^- (Tkat-5) CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ CONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH A ^- (Tkat-6) Examples of such commercial products are Schercoquat BAS, Lexquat AMG-BEO, Akypoquat 131 or Incroquat Behenyl HE.

• - Esterquats be used according to the formula (Tkat1-2).
  
  Here, the radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different. The radicals R1, R2 and R3 are: a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or - an aryl or alkaryl radical, for example phenyl or benzyl, - The radical (-A-R4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 can be this radical: The radical (A-R4) is at least 1 to 3 times. Here A is: 1) - (CH 2) n - where n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 1 - 5, or 2) - (CH 2 -CHR 5 -O) n - with n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl, and R4 stands for: 1) R6-O-CO-, wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which may be further ethoxylated with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units, or 2) R7-CO-, wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated, and - Q is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion. Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ^®, Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80, Dehyquart ^® F-30, Dehyquart ^® AU 35, Rewoquat ^® WE18, Rewoquat WE38 ^® DPG and Stepantex ^® VS 90 are examples of such esterquats. Further compounds of the formula (Tkat1-2) which are particularly preferred according to the invention belong to the formula (Tkat1-2.1), the cationic betaine esters.
  
  R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.
• Monoalkyltrimethylammonium salts having a chain length of the alkyl radical of 16 to 24 carbon atoms corresponding to the formula (Tkat1-1),
  
  in which R 1, R 2 and R 3 are each a methyl group and R 4 is a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical having a chain length of 16 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1-1) are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide and behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.
• Amines and / or cationized amines, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas: R ¹ -NH- (CH ₂ ) _n -NR ² R ³ (Tkat 7) and or R ¹ -NH- (CH ₂ ) _n -NR ² R ³ R ⁴ (Tkat8) wherein R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and R 2, R 3 and R 4 in each case independently of one another hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 C atoms, which may be identical or different, saturated or unsaturated, and X ^{- is} an anion and n is an integer between 1 and 10. Preference is given to a composition in which the amine and / or the quaternized amine according to general formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) is an amidoamine and / or a quaternized amidoamine, in which R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means. Preference is given in this case to a fatty acid radical of oils and waxes, in particular of natural oils and waxes. Examples of these are lanolin, bees or candellila waxes. Also preferred are those amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 in formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) represent a radical according to the general formula CH ₂ CH ₂ OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyethyl or hydrogen. The preferred size of n in the general formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5. Further preferred are amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines of the general formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8), in wherein the anion X ^{- is} a halide ion or a compound of the general formula RSO ₃ ^- , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of R 2, R 3 and R 4 and / or the alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of RSO ₃ ^- in the general formula (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) may contain at least one hydroxyl group. The alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred. As for inventive use amidoamines, which can optionally be quaternized, are, for example into consideration as amidoamines: Witcamine ^® 100 (Witco, INCI-name: Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine), Incromine ^® BB (Croda, INCI name: behenamidopropyl dimethylamine), Mackine ^® 401 (McIntyre, INCI name: Isostearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine) and other Mackine types, Adogen ^® S18V (Witco, INCI name: Stearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine), and as permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ^® RTM 50 (Witco surfactants GmbH, INCI name: Ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate), Empigen ^® CSC (Albright & Wilson, INCI name: Cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride) Swanol ^® Lanoquat OF-50 (Nikko, INCI name: quaternium-33), Rewoquat ^® UTM 50 (Witco surfactants GmbH, Undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate).

The anion of all of the previously described cationic compounds is selected from the physiologically acceptable anions. Examples of these are the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, sulfate of the general formula RSO ₃ ^- , in which R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, Citrate, lactate or acetate, called.

Preference is given to using cationic imidazolines, esterquats, cationic surfactants according to the formula (Tkat-2) and amines and / or cationized amines, in particular amidoamines and / or cationized amidoamines.

The aforementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any combination with each other, wherein amounts between 0.01 to 20 wt.%, Preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.% And most preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 7.5% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

Typical examples of particularly suitable milds, i. particularly skin-compatible surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines and / or amphoacetates.

The term wax is usually understood to mean all natural or artificially produced substances and mixtures having the following properties: they are of solid to brittle hard consistency, coarse to fine-crystalline, translucent to hazy and melt above 30 ° C. without decomposition. They are already slightly above the melting point low viscosity and non-stringy and show a strong temperature-dependent consistency and solubility.

According to the invention, preference is given to a wax component or a mixture of wax components which melts / melts at 30 ° C. or above and is selected from the group of esters of pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol and tripentaerythritol. The esters of pentaerythritol are preferred.

The abovementioned esters of pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol and / or tripentaerythritol are contained in the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the content of this pentaerythritol-based wax component is 0.2-5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-4% by weight and in particular 1-2% by weight, in each case based on the total composition , In the stated quantitative ranges, the total sensory profile of the compositions according to the invention is optimal.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the commercial product Cutina PES (Cognis), INCI name pentaerythrityl distearate

Further preferred optional oils are selected from the branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, as they are obtainable by the Guerbet reaction. Preferred alcohol oils are Hexyldecanol (Eutanol ^® G 16, Guerbitol ^® T 16) Octyldodecanol (Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 20), 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and the commercial products Guerbitol ^® 18, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^{®, ®} Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24 wherein hexyl decanol being particularly preferred.

It has surprisingly been found that formulations which are particularly storage-stable and temperature-stable can be formulated according to the invention if the oil component contains at least one polar oil and at least one nonpolar oil, the polar oils being present in excess over the nonpolar oils. The weight ratio of the totality of the polar oils to the total of the nonpolar oils is preferably 5: 1 to 20: 1, preferably 6: 1-10: 1 and particularly preferably 7: 1-8: 1. These polar oils and oil mixtures are inventively particularly preferably combined with polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI: Dimethicone) as a non-polar oil component.

Further hydrocarbons which can be used according to the invention as relatively nonpolar oils have a chain length of preferably 8 to 40 carbon atoms. They may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated. Among them, branched, saturated C8-C40 alkanes are preferred. Both pure substances and substance mixtures can be used. These are usually substance mixtures of different isomeric compounds. Compositions comprising alkanes having 10 to 30, preferably 12 to 20, and more preferably 16 to 20 carbon atoms are particularly suitable, and among these is a mixture of alkanes containing at least 10 wt.% Branched alkanes, based on the total amount the alkanes, more preferably. Preference is given to branched, saturated alkanes. Particularly suitable are mixtures of alkanes which contain more than 1% by weight of 5,8-diethyldodecane and / or more than 1% by weight of didecene.

Furthermore, it has surprisingly been found that the compositions according to the invention also allow the problem-free incorporation of organic and / or inorganic UV filters, with simultaneous storage and temperature stability, and thereby have a very good sensory skin feel. Anti-wrinkle compositions are used by many consumers to treat the effects of skin aging from harmful UV rays. Here it makes particularly sense to comply with the consumer's desire for the greatest possible protection from light and, for example, to combine an anti-wrinkle effect with a sun protection factor.

Compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance.

The UV filter substances are substances which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention. The organic UV filters preferred according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomeric and oligomeric 4,4-Diarylbutadiencarboxylic acid esters and -carbonsäureamiden, Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzalmalonsäureestern, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the above components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives in pigmentary, ie undissolved Form - for example, in particle sizes of 10 nm to 300 nm - are present. According to the invention particularly preferred oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4 - (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylic acid-4 isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- 4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone, available under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF), 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester, to polymers ge bound UV filters, z. B. 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer having the INCI name Dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS No. 207574-74-1, Parsol ^® SLX), Triazine derivatives, such as. For example, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, available under the name Tinosorb S from CIBA), dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, available under the name Uvasorb HEB from Sigma 3V ^®), 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl- 1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine (ethylhexyl triazone, Uvinul ^® T 150), 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl ] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6), 2,4-bis [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) -imino] - 6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS no. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ^® from 3V Sigma), the benzotriazole derivatives of 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- ( 2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) [Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H-benzotriazole-2 -yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical), 2- (2'-hydroxy-3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No .: 025973 -551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-octylphenyl) benzotr iazole (CAS no. 003147-75-9), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 2440-22-4), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6 - [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - ((trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxanes, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or Aniso triazine also available as Tinosorb S from CIBA ^®), 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- ( 4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6 - (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl ) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [ 4- (ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrrole) 2-yl) -1,3,5-tri azine, 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis { [4- (2-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - [[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and mixtures of mentioned components.

Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, Alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium- and Glucammoniumsalze, in particular the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 at Merck or Neo Heliopan Hydro available from Symrise and the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898- 37-7), which is available for example under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP Symrise, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers such. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bionylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts with the INCI name Terephthalydene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS. 90457-82-2, available as Mexoryl SX from Chimex).

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, solutions of the UV-A-filter 1 can be, for example, (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) in various UV- Make B filters. Therefore, in a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2: 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

• – 15 Gew.-% und weiter bevorzugt 3,0–10 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten. Erfindungsgemäß ist mindestens eine anorganische UV-Filtersubstanz bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1–15 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5–10 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt 1,0
• – 5 Gew.-% und weiter bevorzugt 2,0–4,0 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten.

According to the invention, at least one organic UV filter substance is preferably in a total amount of 0.1-30% by weight, more preferably 0.5-20% by weight, most preferably 1.0

• - 15 wt .-% and more preferably 3.0-10 wt .-%, each based on the total composition. According to the invention, at least one inorganic UV filter substance is preferably in a total amount of 0.1-15 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5-10 wt .-%, most preferably 1.0
• - 5 wt .-% and more preferably 2.0-4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

in der R₁, R₂, R₃ und R₄ unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, n-Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, sek.-Butyl-, tert. Butyl- oder C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, stehen, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R₁-R₄ eine C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, darstellt. Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is present to improve the skin moisture,

in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ -R _{4 is} a C C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is selected from compounds in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl , Ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ and R ₂ and simultaneously at least one of R ₃ and R _{4 is} a C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is selected from bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one alkyl or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the formula (A), in particular N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, in a total amount of 0.01-50% by weight. %, preferably 0.1-20 wt .-%, more preferably 1-10 wt .-% and most preferably 2-5 wt .-%, based on the total composition, included. N, N'-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, a crystalline solid at room temperature, is available, for example, as a Hydrovance commercial product from National Starch and Chemical Company as an approximately 45-55% aqueous solution containing urea and ammonium lactate.

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one further cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances, as well as mixtures of these agents.

The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, Hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, Sodium decanoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium cetoyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate.

The C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents. With the aforementioned C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radicals, the amino acids which carry an OH group may also be esterified to this OH group. A preferred example of this according to the invention is hydroxyproline, which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residues, more preferably dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, which is e.g. B. Sepilift DPHP available from the company Seppic.

The physiologically acceptable salts of the inventively preferred active ingredients containing acid groups and can form salts are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

According to the invention, amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2-30, preferably 2-15, amino acids. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Many of these amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit immune system cells, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then induce tissue repair processes via the release of growth factors, eg collagen synthesis, or are able to sequence them To bind Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus to release active TGF-ß (tissue growth factor), which induces the synthesis of collagen in dermal fibroblasts. Such amino acid oligomers can be used as anti-aging agents.

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val- Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-.beta.-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester (eg Calmosensine from Sederma), carnosine (.beta. His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" from GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component of the product Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma. The tripeptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as a copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) and is available as such from ProCyte Corporation. Furthermore, analogues of Gly-His-Lys can be used, wherein a maximum of two amino acids are substituted by suitable other amino acids. For the substitution of Gly, Ala, Leu and Ile are suitable according to the invention. The inventively preferred amino acids that can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom that is predominantly charged at pH 6, eg. Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine. Most preferably, Lys is replaced by Arg, Orn or citrulline. A further preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, which, for. B. available under the name Collasyn 314-GR from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.; Further preferred tripeptides according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys- Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. As sold by the company Pentapharm under the name ^® SYN -COLL, Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (Tripeptide-2), Tripeptide-4 (z. ATPeptides, via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn N -elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ .

Preference according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are selected from Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, z. B. is available under the name Eyeliss of Sederma, but also forms part of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma. The Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are rearranged and / or in which a maximum of two amino acids are substituted to Rigin, z. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a Pro or Arg, and more preferably, the Tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary. The substituting amino acids can be selected from any amino acid defined below. Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapetides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa , Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids that can substitute Gly, Xbb is selected from Gln and the amino acids that can substitute for Gln, Xcc is selected from Pro or Arg and the Amino acids that can substitute Pro and Arg.

The preferred amino acids that can replace Gly include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile).

The preferred amino acids which can replace Gln include a side chain having an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.

The preferred amino acids which can replace Arg include a side chain having a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin.

As Rigin analogs according to the invention Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred. ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Gln, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups. Optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides which are preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, which can be obtained under the Matrixyl is available from Sederma, further N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly- Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for desquamation inhibition). Preferred, if appropriate, N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides according to the invention are Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), Hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), Hexapeptide-5 (e.g. Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Collasyn 614VG from TPI), hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI ), Myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience) and hexapeptide-10 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec), Ala -Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., modulene from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., SNAP-7 from Centerchem), hexapeptide-2 (eg, melanostatine-DM from Vinci ence), Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, e.g. Peptide 02 from Vincience), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI), Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine homophenylalanine-Trp (hexapeptide-7) Hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience), hexapeptide-10 (e.g. B. Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec) and hexapeptide-11 (eg, Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1). Another preferred amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (glistine exsymol).

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as obtainable, for example, in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma.

The polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from vegetable and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, conchiolin and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolysates, eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ^® (Diamalt) Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda). Particularly preferred are soy protein hydrolysates, more preferably soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 daltons, e.g. B. under the trade name Ridulisse C ^{® available} from the company Silab, and soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 Dalton, preferably 800 Dalton, z. As available under the trade name Phytokine ^® from Coletica. with coconut fatty acids N-acylated and / or esterified Soyaproteinhydrolysaten in the form of their alkali metal salts. Coconut fatty acids include predominantly alkanecarboxylic acids having a number of carbon atoms of 8-18, especially caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids. Preferred alkali metal salts are selected from lithium, sodium and potassium salts, with the potassium salts being particularly preferred.

Another particularly preferred soy protein hydrolyzate according to the invention is an N-acylated and / or esterified soy protein hydrolyzate with coconut fatty acids in the form of the potassium salt, which is available from Sinerga under the trade name Coccopolipeptide di Soya.

Also preferred according to the invention are keratin hydrolysates, in particular wool keratin hydrolysates. A particularly preferred wool keratin hydrolyzate is available under the name Keratec Pep from Croda. Keratec Pep has a smaller molecular weight fraction having an average molecular weight of 150 daltons and a larger molecular weight fraction having an average molecular weight of 1265 daltons. Also preferred according to the invention are conchiolin hydrolyzates, in particular those which are obtainable under the names Pearl Protein Extract and Pearl Protein Extract BG from the company Maruzen. Conchiolin is a complex protein produced from the outer epithelium of molluscs, in particular pearl shells and various types of snails, and forms the very stable shell of these molluscs by incorporation of calcium carbonate crystals. Naturally, protein hydrolysates may also contain monomeric amino acids and oligopeptides; their composition is usually undefined.

Also preferred is the use of acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^{® ®} or Crotein (Croda).

Another active ingredient which is preferred according to the invention and whose action is improved in the presence of the photocatalytically active metal oxide used in accordance with the invention is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (obtainable, for example, under the trade name glistin from exsymol).

Also preferred according to the invention are cationized protein hydrolysates. Particularly preferred are cationic protein hydrolysates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives used in the present invention, some of them are listed under the INCI names in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl ether HCl. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

In a further preferred embodiment, the polymers of the amino acids are selected from DNA repair enzymes.

DNA repair enzymes preferred according to the invention are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter abbreviated to "T4N5" below. These two enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes. DNA repair is defined as the cleavage or removal of UV-induced pyrimidine dimers from the DNA. Photolyase is the abbreviation for deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3. A particularly efficient photolyase is derived from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine microorganism. The photolyase from A. nidulans is now obtained in technically relevant quantities from E. coli. Photolyase relies on light for activation.

The enzyme T4 endonuclease V is produced by the V gene of bacteriophage T4 and belongs to the phosphodiesterases, which hydrolytically cleave the nucleic acids at the (5`-3`) bond. T4N5 is also active without the influence of light.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosome ^TM , liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. Available under the name Ultrasome ^™ from AGI Dermatics, USA.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one of the commercial products Photosomes ^™ or Ultrasomes ^™ in total amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight and particularly preferably 1.0 -4.0 wt .-%, based on the total composition of the invention.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one monomer, oligomer or polymer of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances in total amounts of 0.0000001-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001-5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01-1-2-3 wt .-%, each based on the active substance content in the total composition according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one DNA oligonucleotide or at least one RNA oligonucleotide. According to the invention, an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in β-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine). 5'-triphosphate).

An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one DNA oligonucleotide and / or one RNA oligonucleotide in total amounts of 0.000001-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.0001-0.5 wt.%, And particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one natural betaine compound. Natural betaine compounds of the invention are naturally occurring compounds having the atomic group R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^- according to IUPAC Rule C-816.1. So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge formally reside on O, S, B or C, but which are not of the IUPAC Comply with rule C-816.1.

According to the invention preferred betaine are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^-) carnitine and (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^-), each with Me = methyl and X = C-C single bond (in Case of betaine) or X = -CHOH-CH ₂ - (in the case of carnitine).

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Particularly preferred vitamin A components according to the invention are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol, and also esters thereof, such as retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention, at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin group A or at least one ester thereof in total amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0 , 05-0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

• – Vitamin B₁, Trivialname Thiamin, chemische Bezeichnung 3-[(4´-Amino-2´-methyl-5´-pyrimidinyl)-methyl]-5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-4-methylthiazoliumchlorid. Bevorzugt wird Thiaminhydrochlorid in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₂, Trivialname Riboflavin, chemische Bezeichnung 7,8-Dimethyl-10-(1-D-ribityl)-benzo[g]pteridin-2,4(3H,10H)-dion. Bevorzugt werden Riboflavin oder seine Derivate in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Bevorzugt wird Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung werden an Stelle von sowie zusätzlich zu Pantothensäure oder Panthenol auch Derivate des 2-Furanon mit der allgemeinen Strukturformel (VIT-I) eingesetzt.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ , common name thiamine, chemical name 3 - [(4'-amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl) methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₂ , trivial name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3H, 10H) -dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Preferred derivatives of panthenol according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (VIT-I) are used instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol.

Particularly preferred are the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ^{6 are} independently a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono , Di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative according to the invention is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), where in formula (I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 represent} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.

• – Vitamin B₆, wobei man hierunter keine einheitliche Substanz, sondern die unter den Trivialnamen Pyridoxin, Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal bekannten Derivate des 5-Hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols versteht. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Vitamin B₆-Komponente in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Vitamin B₇ (Biotin), auch als Vitamin H oder "Hautvitamin" bezeichnet. Bei Biotin handelt es sich um (3aS, 4S, 6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Biotin und den Biotinestern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Folsäure (Vitamin B₉, Vitamin B_c). Internationaler Freiname für N-[4-(2-Amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino)-benzoyl]-L-glutaminsäure (N-Pteroyl-L-glutaminsäure, PteGlu). Folat wird synonym zu Pteroylglutamat gebraucht, Folate ist der Sammelbegriff für alle Folsäure-wirksamen Verbindungen und bezeichnet eine Substanzklasse, die einen mit 4-Aminobenzoesäure und L-Glutaminsäure verbundenen Pteridin-Ring enthält. Folsäure ist ein Wachstumsfaktor für verschiedene Mikroorganismen und eine Verbindung mit Vitamincharakter, die in der Natur meist als Polyglutamat und in reduzierter Form (7,8-Dihydrofolsäure, H₂Folat, DHF; Tetrahydrofolsäure, H₄Folat, THF; 5′-Methyl-Tetrahydrofolsäure, CH₃-H₄Folat, MeTHF) vorkommt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Folsäure, Folaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01 bis 0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.
• – Orotsäure (Vitamin B₁₃, 1,2,3,6-Tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidin-carbonsäure, Uracil-6-carbonsäure, Molkensäure). Orotsäure, ihr Cholinester oder Orotsäure-Metallsalze (Orotate von Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) sind erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Orotsäure, Orotaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001–1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01–0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and of the 2-furanone derivatives in a total amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight. , Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

• - Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin B ₆ component in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from biotin and the biotin esters in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Folic acid (Vitamin B ₉ , Vitamin B _c ). International generic name for N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid (N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu). Folate is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate, folate is the generic term for all folic acid-active compounds and refers to a class of compounds containing a 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic connected pteridine ring. Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a compound of vitamin character, which is usually found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H ₂ folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H ₄ folate, THF, 5'-methyl). Tetrahydrofolic acid, CH ₃ -H ₄ folate, MeTHF). Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.
• - Orotic acid (vitamin B ₁₃ , 1,2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid). Orotic acid, its choline ester or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one substance which is selected from the vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of the group B ₁ , B ₂ , B ₃ , B ₆ , B ₇ , B ₉ , B ₁₃ and their esters and pantolactone.

Preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of group C and their esters are vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl. The combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the said compounds of the vitamin C type in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

The vitamin E group includes tocopherol, especially α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one substance selected from tocopherol and its derivatives in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0, 5 to 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B ₇ (see above).

The fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group, which are based on the basic structure of 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, include phylloquinone (vitamin K ₁ ), farnoquinone or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K ₃ ) , Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin K in a total amount of from 0001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0.01% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 0.5 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

Vitamin A palmitate (retinyl palmitate), pantolactone, nicotinamide, pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate and the tocopherol esters, especially tocopheryl acetate, are particularly preferred in the present invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention, at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form. Preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2- Hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. The esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that in addition to the combination of active substances according to the invention at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid and / or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or a derivative, in particular an ester, a lactone or a salt thereof, in a total amount of 0, 01-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5-1-2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract. The flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the flavanones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), the aurones and the isoflavones. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4 '-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside, hesperetin-7-O-rhamnoglucoside), neohesperidin, rutin (3,3', 4 ', 5,7-pentahydroxy-flavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3, 5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin ( 3,3 ', 4', 5-Tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), diosmin (3 ', 4', 7-trihydroxy-5-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside), eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside).

Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside.

Also preferred are the constructed from two flavonoid biflavonoids, z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin, hesperidin methyl chalcone and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one flavonoid in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the flavonoid active substance in the entire cosmetic composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract. The isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted at this point as isoflavonoids.

For the purposes of the present invention, isoflavones are to be understood as meaning substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, hydrogenation of which may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation under Formation of a carbonyl group in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.

In the isoflavone glycosides preferred according to the invention, the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar. Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.

It is furthermore preferred according to the invention if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a plant extract. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art, for example by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soya, red clover or chickpeas. Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts obtained from soybean are particularly preferably used in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline from Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one polyphenol or one polyphenol-rich plant extract.

According to the invention, polyphenols are aromatic compounds which contain at least two phenolic hydroxyl groups in the molecule. These include the three dihydroxybenzenes catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, phloroglucin, pyrogallol and hexahydroxybenzene. In nature, free and etherified polyphenols occur, for example, in floral dyes (anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acylpolyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives.

Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechins, usnic acid, and as tannins the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and digalloylgallic acid. Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechins, ie the derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, ie the derivatives of leucoanthocyanidins which preferably carry phenolic hydroxyl groups in the 5,7,3 ', 4', 5 'position, preferably epicatechin and epigallocatechin, as well as the tannins resulting from self-condensation. Such tannins are preferably not used in isolated pure substance, but as extracts of tanning-rich plant parts, eg. Extracts of catechu, quebracho, oak bark and pine bark, as well as other tree bark, leaves of green tea (camellia sinensis) and mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins. A particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Sepivinol R, an extract of red wine, available from Seppic. Another particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Crodarom Chardonnay L, an extract from the cores of the Chardonnay grape, available from Croda.

According to the invention, the polyphenols are preferred in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight and very preferably 0.01 to 3% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the commercial product, of at least one polyphenol contains, used in the entire composition of the invention.

mit n = 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (UBI-I):

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Particularly preferred is the ubiquinone of formula (II) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one ubiquinone, ubiquinol or a derivative thereof in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.005 to 0, 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain silymarin. According to the invention, silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was previously regarded as a uniform substance. The main constituents of silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydianin, which belong to the group of flavanolignans.

Compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain silymarin in amounts of 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 0.01% by weight and more preferably 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one naturally occurring xanthine derivative selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline. According to the invention, the naturally occurring xanthine derivatives are preferred in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably from 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on entire composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain ectoine. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention, ectoine is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain creatine. Creatine is the common name for N-methyl-guanidino-acetic acid or N-amidinosarcosine. According to the invention, creatine is preferred in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on the total composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one olive leaf extract (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). An inventively particularly preferred olive leaf extract is available under the trade name Oleanoline DPG from the company Vincience. Another invention particularly preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one olive leaf extract in a total amount of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 1 to 2% by weight. %, in each case based on the extract as a commercial product tel quel in the entire composition according to the invention.

Olive leaf extracts may have a high content of oleanolic acid and / or oleanol. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or oleuropein. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or oleuropein in a total amount of 0.00001 to 2 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total inventive composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain ursolic acid. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise ursolic acid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight, in each case to the entire composition of the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one active substance which is selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters. According to the invention, polyhydroxystilbenes are understood to mean stilbenes which are substituted by 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 hydroxyl groups on the two phenyl radicals, it being possible for these to be esterified. Mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. Particularly preferred hydroxystilbenes and their esters according to the invention are selected from resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol), the resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric acid esters and their salts. An inventively particularly preferred Resveratrolphosphorsäureester is trisodium resveratrol triphosphates, z. Available from Ajinomoto.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active agent selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters, in a total amount of 0.000001-5% by weight, preferably 0.00001-1 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005-0.05 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

• – sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (Algisium, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol mannuronate (Algisium C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol mannuronate Nylon-12 (Algisium C powder^®, Exsymol)
• – ascorbylmethylsilanol (Ascorbosilane concentrate C^®, Exsymol)
• – ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (Ascorbosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane Nylon-12 (DSBC powder^®, Exsymol)
• – sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol (DSH^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (DSHC^®, Exsymol)
• – methysilanol glycyrrhizinate (Glysinol^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolhydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolisilane^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolhydroxyproline aspartate (Hydroxyprolisilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium^®, Exsymol)
• – lactoylmethylsilanol elastinate (Lasilium C^®, Exsymol)
• – dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol (Liposiliol C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol acetylmethionate (Methiosilane^®, Exsymol)
• – acetylmethionylmethylsifanol elastinate (Methiosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol tri PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol elastinate (Proteosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – pyrollidone carboxylate caustic methylsilanol (Silhydrate^®, Exsymol)
• – pyrollidone carboxylate copper methylsilanol (Silhydrate C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolcarboxymethyl theophylline (Theophyllisilane^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilancarboxymethyl theophylline alginate (Theophyllisilane C^® Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol acetyltyrosine (Tyrosilane^®, Exsymol)
• – copper acetyl tyrosinate methylsilanol (Tyrosilane C^®, Exsymol).

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one derivative of methylated silanol, preferably at least one ester of methylated silanol. Preferred derivatives of methylated silanol are selected from:

• - sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (algisium, exsymol)
• - Mannuronate methylsilanol (Algisium C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol Mannuronate Nylon-12 (Algisium C powder ^®, Exsymol)
• - ascorbylmethylsilanol (Ascorbosilane concentrate C ^®, Exsymol)
• - ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (Ascorbosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane Nylon-12 (DSBC ^® powder, Exsymol)
• - sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol (DSH ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (DSHC ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methysilanol glycyrrhizinate (Glysinol ^® , exsymol)
• - methylsilanolhydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolisilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanolhydroxyproline aspartate (Hydroxyprolisilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium ^® , exsymol)
• - lactoylmethylsilanol elastinate (Lasilium C ^®, Exsymol)
• - dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol (Liposiliol C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol acetylmethionate (Methiosilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - acetylmethionylmethylsifanol elastinate (Methiosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanol PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanol tri PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol elastinate (Proteosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - pyrollidone carboxylate caustic methylsilanol (Silhydrate ^® , exsymol)
• - pyrollidone carboxylate copper methylsilanol (Silhydrate C ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanolcarboxymethyl theophylline (Theophyllisilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilancarboxymethyl theophylline alginate (Theophyllisilane ^® C Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol acetyltyrosine (Tyrosilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - copper acetyl tyrosinate methylsilanol (Tyrosilane C ^®, Exsymol).

Particularly preferred are sodium hyaluronates dimethylsilanol, dimethylsilanol hyaluronates, methylsilanol mannuronates, methylsilanol hydroxyproline and methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartates. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one derivative of methylated silanol in total amounts of 0.001-5% by weight, preferably 0.005-1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-%, each based on the active substance in the total composition of the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain phytic acid. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain phytic acid in a total amount of 0.001-1% by weight, preferably 0.01-0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.05-0.1% by weight. -%, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one extract of maize kernels (Zea may (kernel extract)). An extract of corn kernels which is particularly preferred according to the invention is obtainable under the trade name Deliner from Coletica. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of maize kernels (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.01-5% by weight, preferably 0 , 1-3 wt .-%, more preferably 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the content of extract tel quel in the entire composition. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from corn kernel extracts (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0 , 0001-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one extract of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract). A particularly preferred extract of oat grains according to the invention is available under the trade name Drago Beta Glucan (02/060800) from Symrise. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of oat grains (Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.01-5% by weight, preferably 0 , 1-3 wt .-%, more preferably 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the content of extract tel quel in the entire composition. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0 , 0001-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one product which is obtained by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter ylinum, referred to as kombucha and bears the INCI name Saccharomyces / xylinum / Black Tea Ferment. Such products increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred product is available under the trade name Kombuchka from the company Sederma (INCI name: Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethyl cellulose).

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from products obtained by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Xylinum and the INCI name Saccharomyces / xylinum / Black Tea Ferment carry, in a total amount of 0.01-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-3 wt .-%, more preferably 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the content of product tel quel in the entire composition. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from products obtained by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter Xylinum and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, in a total amount of 0.00001-1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. Particularly preferred apple seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Ederline from Seporga. The product Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. Ederline is once in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), on the other in fat-soluble form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol , Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract).

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the raw material Ederline in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and particularly preferably 3-5% by weight, in each case on the entire composition, included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one apple seed extract in quantities of 0.00001-2% by weight, preferably 0.001-1.6% by weight and more preferably 0.03-1% by weight. %, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of lotus nuclei (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract). Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred lotus germ extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Lotus Germ Extract with the INCI name Water, Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract from Maruzen.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of lotus nuclei (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract) in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and more preferably 2-5% by weight. 3 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of lotus nuclei in amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0, 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of red wine. Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred red wine extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Sepivinol R from Seppic.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of red wine in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and particularly preferably 2-3% by weight. in each case based on the total composition. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of red wine in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0, 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one extract of grape seeds (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract). Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. The grape seed extracts are particularly preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape. Particularly preferred grape seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Herbalia Grape from Cognis or under the trade name Crodarom Chardonnay from Croda.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of grape seeds in quantities of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and particularly preferably 2-3% by weight. in each case based on the total composition. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of grape seeds in Quantities of 0.00001-1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition ,

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of black elder flowers (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract). Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. An invention particularly preferred extract of black elderflower is available under the trade name Sambucus AO from the company Alpaflor / Centerchem or Permcos.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of black elderflower in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-5% by weight and particularly preferably 2-3% by weight. , in each case based on the total composition. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of black elder flower in amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and more preferably 0.001-0 , 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one active ingredient which stimulates beta-endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes. Particularly preferred according to the invention stimulators of beta-endorphin synthesis are selected from mixtures of at least one extract of the leaves of Mentha piperita and at least one extract of cocoa beans, wherein aqueous, glycolic or aqueous-glycolic preparations of these extract mixtures under the trade names Caomint, Caophenol , Caobromine, Caospice and Caoorange available from the company Solabia, are particularly preferred. Another particularly preferred stimulator of beta-endorphin synthesis is the dipeptide derivative N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester with the INCI name acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, z. B. as an aqueous preparation under the trade name Calmosensine from the company Sederma is available.

Further preferred stimulators of beta-endorphin synthesis are extracts of Helichrysum italicum, e.g. B. available under the trade name Areaumat Perpetua from Codif, extracts from Crithmum Maritimum, z. B. available under the trade names Areaumat Samphira and Aroleat Samphira by Codif, extracts of Lavendula stoechas, z. B. available under the trade name Areaumat Lavanda by the company Codif, extracts of Mentha piperita, as z. Available under the trade names Authenticals of Peppermint (Solabia) and Calmiskin (Silab), glutamylamidoethyl indoles, e.g. B. available under the trade name Glistin exsymol, obtained by microbial fermentation branched polysaccharide with rhamnose, galactose and glucuronic acid units with the INCI name Biosaccharides Gum-2, z. B. available under the trade name Rhamnosoft from the company Solabia, extracts from the seeds of Tephrosia Purpurea with the INCI name Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, z. B. available under the trade name Tephroline from Vincience, mixtures of the oil of Mentha arvensis leaves, lime skin oil, cypress oil, lavender oil and Cistus Ladaniferus oil with the INCI name Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil and Cupressus Sempervirens Oil and Lavandula Hybrida Oil and Cistus Ladaniferus Oil, eg. B. available under the trade name V-Tonic (Gattefossé), and hexasaccharides according to FR 2842201 as well as any mixtures of these active ingredients.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active substance for stimulating beta-endorphin synthesis in total amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight, and particularly preferably 1-3 wt .-%, each based on the commercial product containing the active ingredient, in the entire composition of the invention included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient for stimulating beta-endorphin synthesis in total amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight, based in each case on the content of active substance in the total composition according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one further skin-lightening active ingredient to assist the skin-lightening action of the photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention, in particular titanium dioxide. Skin-lightening active substances preferred according to the invention are selected individually or in mixtures of hydroquinone, Kojic acid, arbutin, extracts from licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra), extracts from various parts of the mulberry tree (Morus spp., In particular from Morus alba and in particular extracts from the bark, stem, leaves and fruits), extracts from Scutellaria spp. (Skullcap), in particular from Scutellaria baicalensis (Baikal helmetwort) and here in particular extracts from the root, extracts from Waltheria indica ("Sleepy Morning") and in particular extracts from the leaves, extracts of bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (L. ), Ericaceae) and in particular extracts from the leaves, extracts of cranberry (leaves and flowers), extracts of blueberry (fruits), extracts of leaf buds of pear trees, aniseed oil, extracts of blackberry leaves, furthermore extracts of Pyrola rotundifolia (round-leaved wintergreen), Cucumber and / or lime, furthermore ascorbic acid, coumaric acid ((Z) -2-hydroxycinnamic acid) and cis-9-octadecenedioic acid (other nomenclature: cis-8-hexadecene dicarboxylic acid), the latter being commercially available, for example. B. under the name Arlatone DIOIC DCA from Uniqema, and the esters and / or salts of these acids. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one further skin-lightening active ingredient in total amounts of 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1. 2 wt .-%, each based on the active ingredient in the total composition according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient. Sebum-regulating active substances preferred according to the invention are selected from 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid and the esters of azelaic acid, in particular potassium azeloyl diglycinate, 1,10-decanediol and at least one extract of Spiraea ulmaria, glycyrrhizin, which is also referred to as glycyrrhizic acid or glycyrrhetinic acid glycoside and the beta-glucuronido-alpha-glucuronide of glycyrrhetinic acid, and their salts, tannic acid and its salts, gallotannins, naringin, mixtures of glycyrrhizin (salts), tannic acid (salts) and / or gallotannins and naringin, as for example as a commercial product BiSCos Glynarin PF (INCI: Aqua (Water), Alacohol, Ohenoxyethanol, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Tannic Acid, Naringine) from the company Biesterfeld are available, further from water and oil-soluble extracts of witch hazel, burdock root and stinging nettle, Zimtbaumextract (z. (B. Sepicontrol A5 ^® by the company SEPPIC), chrysanthemum extract eg Laricyl ^®, ex Laboratoires Serobiologiques), Hefeproteinhydrolysaten as ^® series, ex Laboratoires Serobiologiques are available, for example in the commercial products the Asebiol, particularly Asebiol ^® LS 2539 BT 2 (INCI:. Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, glycerine, panthenol, allantoin, biotin) and Asebiol ^® LS 2539 BT (Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, glycerin, panthenol, propylene glycol, allantoin, Disodium azelates, biotin), and PEG-8 Isolauryl thioether as such. B. in the commercial product "Antifettfaktor ^® COS-218/2-A" of Cosmetochem is included (INCI: Aqua, cetyl-PCA, PEG-8 Isolauryl thioether, PCA, cetyl alcohol), and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Preferred blends are available, for example, as the commercial product Acnacidol PG (propylene glycol, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, 1,10-decanediol) from Vincience. A preferred extract of Spiraea ulmaria is z. B. contained in the product Seboregul 2 Silab. Kaliumazeloyldiglycinat is z. B. contained in the product Azeloglicina Sinerga. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient in total amounts of 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight and more preferably 0.1 to 1-2 Wt .-%, each based on the active ingredient in the total composition according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention furthermore contain at least one particulate, sebum-sorbing active ingredient, in particular talc, starch and other particles.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the particulate, sebum-sorbing active ingredient is selected from inorganic and organic cosmetic adsorbents having average particle diameters of 0.1-100 .mu.m, preferably 0.5-50 .mu.m, particularly preferably 5-30 .mu.m and extremely preferably 10-25 μm. Particularly preferred inorganic adsorbents are selected from silicas, particularly Aerosil ^® grades, silica gels, silica, clays and layered silicates, in particular bentonite or kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicates, in particular talc, and boron nitride, and mixtures of said substances. Particularly preferred organic adsorbents are selected from starches and starch derivatives, which may be chemically and / or physically modified, in particular modified starch derivatives of type DRY FLO ^® of National Starch and Chemical Company, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin, particularly sodium C _8-16 -Isoalkylsuccinyllactoglobulinsulfonat, z. Available as a commercial product ^Biopol® OE from Brooks Industries, polymer powders from polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyamides, polyesters, polystyrenes, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polymethyl methacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, Teflon or silicones, wherein said polymer powder can be crosslinked in a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, and mixtures of said substances.

Polymer powder based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are z. B. as a commercial product Polytrap ^® 6603 (Dow Corning) available. Other polymer powders, e.g. Example based on polyamides, obtainable under the name Orgasol ^® 1002 (polyamide-6) and Orgasol ^® 2002 (polyamide-12) from Elf Atochem. Further according to the invention particularly preferred polymer powders are crosslinked polymethacrylates (Micro Pearl ^® M from SEPPIC or Plastic Powder A of NIKKOL), cross-linked polymethyl (Micro Pearl ^® 305 and Micro Pearl ^® M 310 from SEPPIC), styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (e.g., B. Plastic Powder FP (of NIKKOL), polyethylene and polypropylene powder z. B. ACCUREL EP ^® 400 from AKZO), or silicone polymers (eg. B. silicone powder X2-1605 from Dow Corning).

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the particulate, sebumsorbierende drug on cavities. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the particulate, sebumsorbierende agent has hemispherical particles, more preferably at least 50 wt .-% of the particles are hemispherical. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the particulate, sebumsorbierende agent has hemispherical particles with cavities, more preferably at least 50 wt .-% of the particles are hemispherical with cavities.

Particularly preferred particulate, sebumsorbierende agents are crosslinked polymethyl methacrylates with average particle diameters of 5-50 microns, in particular the commercial products Micropearl ^® 305 and Micropearl ^® M 310 from SEPPIC. Extremely preferred particulate, sebumsorbierende agents are crosslinked polymethyl methacrylates with average particle diameters of 5-50 microns, which include hemispherical particles with cavities, more preferably at least 50 wt .-% of the particles are hemispherical with cavities, such as the commercial product Micropearl ^® M 310 of SEPPIC.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one particulate sebum-sorbing agent in a total amount of from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 1.5 to 3% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention also contain at least one astringent active ingredient which leads to a temporary narrowing of the skin pores, for example tannins or tanning agents or polyphenols in general, furthermore aluminum salts, such as are also used as antiperspirant active ingredients. These agents regulate the amount of sebum on the skin surface by delaying sebum leakage.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention also contain at least one sebum-regulating active substance which inhibits the enzyme 5-alpha-reductase which is involved in the activity of the sebaceous glands. Preferred inhibitors of 5-alpha-reductase are selected from finasteride ^®, 4-androstene-3-one-17β-carboxylic acid, (4R) -5,10-seco-19-norpregna-4,5-diene-3,10, 20-trian, (5-alpha, 20-R) -4-diazo-21-hydroxy-20-methylpregnan-3-one, 4-azasteroid, especially 17β-N, N-diethylcarbamoyl-4-methyl-4-aza 5-alpha-androstan-3-one, 17-alpha-acetoxy-6-methylene pregn-4-ene-3,20-dione, 3-carboxyandrosta-3,5-diene steroid derivatives and 3-carboxy A ring-aryl steroids, 3-androstene-3-carboxylic acids, 3-carboxy-17β-substituted steroids, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -5-α-androst-1-en-4-aza-3-one, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -androst-3,5-diene-3-carboxylic acid, 17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -androst-3,5-diene-3-carboxylic acid, 17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide ) -estra-1,3,5 (10) -triene-3-carboxylic acid, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -estra-1,3,5 (10) -triene-3-carboxylic acid, 17β- (N, N -diisopropylcarboxamide) -estra-1,3,5 (10) -triene-3-sulfonic acid, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -estra-1,3,5 (10) -triene-3-sulfonic acid, 17β- (N , N-diisopropylcarboxami d) -estra-1,3,5 (10) -triene-3-phosphonic acid, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -estra-1,3,5 (10) -triene-3-phosphonic acid, 17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -estra-1,3,5 (10) -triene-3-phosphinic acid, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -estra-1,3,5 (10) -triene-3-phosphinic acid, 17β- ( Nt-butylcarboxamide) -androst-3,5-diene-3-phosphinic acid, 17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -androst-3,5-diene-3-phosphinic acid, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -androst-3 , 5-diene-3-phosphonic acid, (Z) -17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -androst-4-en-3-ylidene-acetic acid, 17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -5α-androst-2 -en-3-acetic acid, (Z) -17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -5α-androst-3-ylideneacetic acid, 17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -5α-androst-3-ene-3-acetic acid and 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -5α-androst-2-ene-3-acetic acid and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned acids.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one inhibitor of 5-alpha-reductase in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one deoxy sugar or a polysaccharide containing at least one deoxy sugar building block.

Preferred deoxysugars according to the invention are selected from rhamnose and fucose. An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product fucogel ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum -1. Another inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Rhamnosoft ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2. An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Fucogenol ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-third An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Glycofilm ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-fourth According to the invention furthermore given to mixtures of the above, containing at least one deoxy-block polysaccharides, for example the mixture of Biosaccharide Gum-2 and Biosaccharide Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia are.

Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one polysaccharide containing deoxy sugar and / or at least one deoxy sugar building block in total amounts of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight and more preferably 0, 1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the invention.

A further subject matter of the present application is the use of the compositions according to the invention for cleansing the skin, mucous membranes and hair, in particular for cleansing facial skin and / or intimate hygiene, and / or for non-therapeutic wrinkle treatment and / or for non-therapeutic treatment of impure ones Skin.

Another object of the present application is a non-therapeutic method for cleaning the skin, mucous membranes and hair, in particular for cleaning the facial skin and / or intimate hygiene, characterized in that a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 to the optionally moistened Skin applied and after a cleaning procedure of 2 to 200 seconds, if necessary, longer, rinsed and / or wiped, the application to the skin by means of a cloth, pads or similar article can be done.

Further optional auxiliaries and additives

Depending on the application, the cosmetic formulations contain a number of other auxiliaries and additives such as ionic emulsifiers / surfactants, other wax or lipid components, other thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, lecithins, biogenic agents, UV protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, film formers , Swelling agents, insect repellents, hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes, etc., which are listed below by way of example. The quantities of the respective additives depend on the intended use.

Fats and fat-like substances of waxy consistency can be used as further wax or lipid components unless they are compulsory constituents of the compositions according to the invention. The components designated according to the invention as fats and fat-like substances of waxy consistency have a melting point (under standard conditions = 1013 mbar) of at least 30 ° C. These include u.a. Triglyceride fats, mono- and diglycerides of saturated, linear C12-C40 fatty acids, natural and synthetic waxes, fatty and wax alcohols, C10-C40 fatty acids, esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids that are not liquid at 25 ° C, and fatty acid amides and any mixtures of these substances.

Fats are triacylglycerols, ie the triple esters of fatty acids with glycerol. Preferably, they contain saturated, unbranched and unsubstituted fatty acid residues. These may also be mixed esters, ie triple esters of glycerol with different fatty acids.

It is possible to use according to the invention and to be particularly suitable as a bodying agent for so-called hardened fats and oils obtained by partial hydrogenation. Herbal hardened fats and oils are preferred, e.g. As hardened castor oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, corn oil, olive oil, sesame oil, cocoa butter and coconut oil.

Suitable are u.a. the triple esters of glycerol with C12-C60 fatty acids and in particular C12-C36 fatty acids. These include hardened castor oil, a triple ester of glycerol and a hydroxystearic acid, which is commercially available, for example, under the name Cutina HR. Also suitable are glycerol tristearate, glycerol tribehenate (eg Syncrowax HRC), glycerol tripalmitate or the triglyceride mixtures known under the name Syncrowax HGLC.

Mono- and diglycerides or mixtures of these partial glycerides can be used in particular as additional wax components. The glyceride mixtures which can be used according to the invention include the products Novata AB and Novata B (mixture of C12-C18 mono-, di- and triglycerides) marketed by Cognis and also Cutina MD or Cutina GMS (glyceryl stearate).

Mixed esters and mixtures of mono-, di- and triglycerides are preferably suitable according to the invention since they show a lower tendency to crystallize and thus further improve the performance of the composition according to the invention.

Compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention therefore contain 2-10% by weight, preferably 4-8% by weight, particularly preferably 5-6% by weight of at least one lipid component selected from glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate and mixtures thereof.

The fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention include the linear C 12 -C 50 -fatty alcohols, in particular the C 12 -C 24 -fatty alcohols, which are obtained from natural fats, oils and waxes, for example myristyl alcohol, 1-pentadecanol, cetyl alcohol, 1-heptadecanol, stearyl alcohol, 1 Nonadecanol, arachidyl alcohol, 1-heenicosanol, behenyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol or myricyl alcohol. Preferred in accordance with the invention are saturated, unbranched fatty alcohols. Fettalkoholschnitte, as used in the reduction of naturally occurring fats and oils such. As beef tallow, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, castor oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, cocoa butter and coconut oil. But it can also synthetic alcohols, eg. As the linear, even-numbered fatty alcohols of the Ziegler synthesis (Alfole) or the partially branched alcohols from the oxo synthesis (Dobanols) can be used. C14-C22-fatty alcohols which are preferred according to the invention are, for example, Cognis under the name Lanette 16 (C16-alcohol), Lanette 14 (C14-alcohol), Lanette O (C16 / C18-alcohol) and Lanette 22 (C18 / C22-alcohol). Alcohol) are marketed.

Fatty alcohols give the compositions a drier feel on the skin than triglycerides and are therefore preferred over the latter.

Therefore, particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain 1.5-6 wt .-%, preferably 2-5 wt .-%, more preferably 3-4 wt .-% of at least one lipid component selected from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl and Mixtures thereof.

As additional wax components it is also possible to use C14-C40 fatty acids or mixtures thereof. These include, for example, myristic, pentadecane, palmitic, margarine, stearic, nonadecane, arachin, beehive, lignocerin, cerotin, melissin, eruca and elaeostearic and substituted fatty acids, such as. As 1 2-hydroxystearic acid, and the amides or monoethanolamides of fatty acids, this list has exemplary and not limiting character.

Also usable according to the invention are natural vegetable waxes, such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as orange waxes, lemon waxes, grapefruit wax, bayberry wax (= Bayberrywax) and animal waxes, such as , B. beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, wool wax and raffia fat. For the purposes of the invention it may be advantageous to use hydrogenated or hardened waxes. The natural waxes usable according to the invention also include the mineral waxes, such as. As ceresin and ozokerite or the petrochemical waxes such. As petrolatum, paraffin waxes and microwaxes. As a wax component and chemically modified waxes, especially the hard waxes, such as. B. Montanesterwachse and Sasol waxes used. To the synthetic ones Waxes which can be used according to the invention include, for example, waxy polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes. Vegetable waxes are preferred according to the invention.

The additional wax component can also be selected from the group of wax esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols, from the group consisting of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, Tricarboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids (for example 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols from the group of polyols esterified with carboxylic acids (other than pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol or tripentaerythritol), in particular 1,2- Propylene glycol, ethylene glycol and glycerol, and also from the group of lactides of long-chain hydroxycarboxylic acids. Examples of such esters are the C16-C40 alkyl stearates, C20-C40 alkyl stearates (eg Kester wax K82H), C20-C40 dialkyl esters of dimer acids, C18-C38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates or C20-C40 alkyl erucates. Also usable are C30-C50 alkyl beeswax, tristearyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl octanoate, trilauryl citrate, ethylene glycol dipalmitate, ethylene glycol distearate, ethylene glycol di (12-hydroxystearate), cetyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, palmityl stearate, stearyl behenate, cetearyl behenate and behenyl behenate. Cetyl palmitate is particularly preferred from this group of so-called wax esters, in particular in amounts of 0.2-1% by weight, preferably 0.4-0.8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-0.6% by weight. %, in each case based on the weight of the compositions according to the invention. Other suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicic acids), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl cellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone and bentonites, such as. B. Bentone Gel VS-5PC (Rheox).

Further optional active ingredients are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, beta-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids (AHA acids), ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Part A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.

As perfume oils are called mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peel, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and twigs, resins and balsams. Furthermore, animal raw materials, such as civet and Castoreum and synthetic fragrance compounds of the ester type, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons come into question. Dyes which may be used are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes. Examples are Cochenillerot A (CI 16255), Patent Blue V (C.1.42051), Indigotin (C.1.73015), Chlorophyllin (C.1.75810), Quinoline Yellow (C.1.47005), Titanium Dioxide (C.1.77891), Indanthrene Blue RS ( C.1 69800) and Krapplack (C.1.58000). These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total mixture. Advantageously, the skin treatment compositions according to the invention are in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water-in-oil or water-in Oil-in-water emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, hydrogel, lipogel, a mono- or multiphase solution, a foam, a powder, or a mixture with at least one polymer suitable as a medical adhesive. The agents may also be presented in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm. Here, the carrier may be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils.

In a particular embodiment of the agents according to the invention, the agents are present as microemulsions. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood as meaning not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called "PIT" emulsions. These emulsions are systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier, which are present at room temperature as an oil-in-water emulsion. When these systems are heated, microemulsions are formed in a certain temperature range (referred to as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT") and, on further heating, convert to water-in-oil emulsions. Upon subsequent cooling, O / W emulsions are again formed, but they are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions having an average particle diameter of less than 400 nm and in particular of about 100-300 nm. According to the invention, those micro- or "PIT" emulsions may be preferred which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm.

The inventive form of administering the composition according to the invention may take the form of sticks, aerosols, creams, gels, spray applications with and without the formation of a foam facilitating the application, as a cloth impregnated with the composition according to the invention or as plaster. The dosage form depends on the desired application, deodorant, skincare skin cleanser and more.

The following examples are intended to describe the subject matter of the invention in more detail, but without restricting it to the examples.

Examples:

All quantities are in wt.%. The examples were prepared by the usual methods known to those skilled in the art. This means that emulsions were prepared, for example, at customary temperatures of 25 ° C to 90 ° C. The homogenization was carried out with conventional equipment, for example an Ultraturrax. Example 1: Jojoba milk: jojoba 10.0 milk protein hydrolyzate 1.0 PEG-60 Hydrogented Castor Oil 2.5 Almond Oil 5.0 opacifier 1.0 Preservation, perfume, etc. 0.5 water ad 100

The almond oil and the emulsifier are heated together and then the water-soluble components are added with stirring.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• DE 19738866 A [0044]
• FR 2842201 [0177]

Cited non-patent literature

• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0106]

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition for cleansing and care of the skin, comprising in a suitable cosmetic carrier, in each case based on the total amount of the composition a. at least one triglyceride in a total amount of 2.5 to 25.0% by weight, b. at least one plant extract in a total amount of 1.0 to 60.0% by weight, c. at least one protein hydrolyzate in a total amount of 0.01 to 7.5% by weight and d. at least one nonionic surfactant and / or at least one nonionic emulsifier and / or at least one phospholipid in a total amount of 0.1 to 7.5 wt.%. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the triglycerides according to a) have at least one monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acid having a carbon chain length of at least 18 carbon atoms. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the triglycerides according to a) have at least two monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acids having a carbon chain length of at least 18 carbon atoms. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the triglycerides are selected from amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, cottonseed oil, babassu oil, cashew nut oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia nut oil, almond oil, marula oil, olive oil, palm oil, rice oil , Sesame oil, sunflower oil or grapeseed oil. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the triglycerides are selected from apricot kernel oil, argan oil, babassu oil, macadamia nut oil, almond oil, marula oil, olive oil, sunflower oil or grapeseed oil. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the protein hydrolyzate is selected from collagen, gelatin, albumin, egg protein, lupine protein, wheat protein, potato protein, rape protein, soy protein and milk protein. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the protein hydrolyzate is selected from egg protein, collagen, gelatin, soy protein, albumin and milk. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the protein hydrolyzate is milk protein hydrolyzate. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the plant extract is selected from the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, jojoba, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe Vera, Spruce Needle, Horse Chestnut, Sandalwood, Juniper, Coconut, Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Valerian, Meadowfoam, Quender, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, Slicer, Coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root and ayurvedic plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi) , Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala), grasses like wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, corn, the vers millet varieties (European millet, crabgrass, millet as examples), cane, ryegrass, meadow foxtail, oat oat, ostrich grass, meadow fescue, whistleweed, bamboo, cotton grass, lamprey grass, andropogonodeae (also called impermeable clown or cogon grass), buffalo grass, silt grasses, Perennial grasses, love grasses, cymbopogon (lemongrass), oryzeae (rice), zizania (wild rice), marram grass, perennial grasses, honey grasses, quaking grasses, bluegrasses, couch grass and echinacea, in particular Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (Norton), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens , E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (McGregor), Echinacea laevigata, Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt), all types of wine and pericarp of Litchie chinensis. Cosmetic compositions according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that at least one polysaccharide is also present.