EP1812121A1

EP1812121A1 - Cosmetic and dermatological preparations for the treatment of mature skin

Info

Publication number: EP1812121A1
Application number: EP05811235A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Thomas Döring
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2004-11-17
Filing date: 2005-11-11
Publication date: 2007-08-01
Also published as: WO2006053688A1; RU2007122285A; DE102004055541A1

Abstract

The invention relates to topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the treatment of mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged skin, in particular, for anti-wrinkle treatment, containing a combination of at least two selected peptides in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological vehicle, which have an effect at differing points of the process of collagen and/or fibronectin synthesis.

Description

Cosmetic and dermatological compositions for the treatment of mature skin

The invention relates to topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for treating mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, which contain in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a combination of at least two selected peptides which are present at different locations in the process of collagen and / or or fibronectin synthesis.

A significant consequence of skin aging is the loss of collagen. This is based, on the one hand, on reduced collagen synthesis and, on the other hand, on increased collagen degradation. There is a great deal of interest in effective cosmetic products that are able to sustainably balance the age-related loss of collagen, thereby improving the appearance of aging skin.

The synthesis of collagen and fibronectin in dermal fibroblasts can as TGF-ß φ ^'SSUE growth factoή be induced by growth factors. Specific chemoattractant peptides are capable of recruiting cells of the immune system, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then induce repair processes in the tissue via the release of growth factors, for example collagen synthesis. Such peptides are described in the context of the present invention as type a peptides. Examples of such type a peptides are Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser (INCI name: Pentapeptide-3) or Gly-His-Lys (INCI name: Tripeptide-1), which differ from the α1-pro Derive collagen or from the α2-chain of collagen I. However, the growth factor TGF-ß is predominantly present in an inactive form bound to TSP-1 (thrombospondin I). Certain tripeptides are able to bind to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys in TSP-1 and thus release active TGF-ß. Such peptides are referred to in the context of the present invention as type b peptides. Examples of type b peptides suitable according to the invention are the sequences Lys-Val-Lys (INCI name: on the priority day tripeptides-3, currently (at the time of the Application: Tripeptide-5 with reference to the "technical name: Tripeptide-3"), Lys-Ile-Lys, and Lys-Phe-Lys.

Also known in the art are certain peptides, especially hexapeptides, which are also capable of stimulating collagen synthesis, but the mechanism by which this stimulation occurs is still unclear. Such peptides are referred to in the context of the present invention as type c peptides. The hexapeptide having the sequence Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly which is derived from human elastin represents, for example, a type c peptide in the sense of the present invention.

Topical compositions containing peptides that stimulate collagen synthesis are known in the art. Such compositions show some anti-wrinkle performance but as a result are not yet satisfactory.

Fibronectin is a family of extracellular matrix glycoproteins. Fibronectin forms a network in the dermis and is necessary for maintaining dermal architecture and integrity. The protein level of fibronectin in the skin decreases with age (Bouissouh H., Pieraggi M., Julian M. Pathol, Res. Pract. 178, 515-517, 1988). Fibronectin synthesis is induced by TGF-ß. Active ingredients which are able to increase the amount of TGF-β, however, do not achieve a sufficient effect on the fibronectin synthesis since TGF-β is present in an inactive form within the cells.

Topical skin care products with proven anti-wrinkle performance, e.g. Tretinoin or α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, are often only moderately or even haut¬ compatible. Other agents with proven anti-wrinkle performance are unstable, e.g. against chemical degradation, e.g. Tretinoin or flavonoids. Phytoflavones, which likewise have an anti-wrinkle performance, can have a hormonal effect and are therefore less preferred for cosmetics.

An object of the present invention was to provide topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the treatment of mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, with an optimized activity. A further object of the present invention was to prepare topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the treatment of mature or intrinsic or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, with an optimized compatibility.

Surprisingly and unforeseeable for the skilled worker, it has now been found that the combination of peptides of the types a and b, and in a particularly preferred manner by the combination of peptides of the types a, b and c, synergistic the stimulation of collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis Way is increased; thus an improved wrinkle smoothing and anti-wrinkle treatment is possible. At the same time, it has been found that by the combination of peptides of the types a and b, and particularly preferably by the combination of peptides of the types a, b and c in topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions, an effective anti-wrinkle treatment with improved skin compatibility can take place.

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the topical treatment of the skin, which are in a suitable cosmeti¬ or dermatological carrier a) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide, the N-acylated and / or be esterified and / or can be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and that in the skin, the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently the collagen and / or Fibronectinsynthese stimulates and b) at least one tripeptide which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and by binding to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys Thrombospondin I the growth factor TGF-ß and thus the Colla¬ gene and / or fibronectin synthesis activated.

Another object of the present invention are cosmetic or dermatologi¬ cal compositions for topical treatment of the skin, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide, the N-acylated and or esterified and / or can be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and which stimulates the release of growth factors such as TGF-β in the skin and subsequently collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis, b) at least one tripeptide, which may be acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and which activates the growth factor TGF-β and thus the collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis by binding to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys of thrombospondin I, and in addition to the components a) and b) c) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which is N-acylated and / or be esterified and / or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and that stimulates collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblasts by a mechanism other than the peptide a) or b) stimulated.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, at least one peptide of the type a, b or c is N-acylated and / or esterified with a, preferably linear, C ₈ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid to improve the penetration into the skin and is optionally physiologically tolerable Salt in front. In this case, the fatty acid is particularly preferably saturated, but in another preferred embodiment may also be mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated. Particularly preferred for N-acylation and / or esterification are C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -fatty acids, in particular lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and elaidic acid ((E) -9-octadecenoic acid); very particularly preferred is palmitic acid (C ₁₆ ). It is furthermore particularly preferred that all peptides of the type a, b and c used are N-acylated and / or esterified in this way. Also preferred is the substitution of at least one of the peptides of the type a, b or c with a benzyloxycarbonyl group at the terminal amino group.

An inventively preferred peptide of type a is the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" by the company GfN or in N-acylierter ter form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL of Sederma is available, moreover (in acylated Former) is also a component of the product Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma The tripeptide Gly-His-Lys, whose INCI name at the time of filing according to CTFA-online.org is tripeptide-1, can also be used as a copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) In addition, analogues of Gly-His-Lys can be used, with a maximum of two amino acids being substituted by suitable other amino acids.For the substitution of glycine, alanine, leucine and isoleucine are suitable according to the invention According to the invention, preferred amino acids which can replace histidine or lysine include a side chain having a nitrogen atom which is predominantly charged at pH 6, for example proline, lysine, arginine, histidine, De smosine and isodesmosine. Most preferably, lysine is replaced by arginine, ornithine or citrulline. A further preferred type a peptide according to the invention is accordingly Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: tripeptide-3 at the time of priority, tripeptide-4 at the time of application) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg , the Z. Commercially available from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. under the trade name Collasyn 314-GR. Further peptides of the type a) preferred according to the invention are selected from the group comprising the tetrapeptide rigine, rigine-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides.

Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the inventively particularly preferred N-palmitoyl Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, the z. B. is available under the name Eyeliss of Sederma, but also forms part of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma. The Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are umarran¬ giert and / or in which compared to Rigin a maximum of two amino acids are substituted, z. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids of the sequence contains a Pro or Arg. More preferably, the tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary. The substituting amino acids can be selected from any amino acid defined below. Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapetides comprise: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, wherein Xaa, Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids which can substitute Gly, Xbb is selected from GIn and the amino acids which can substitute GIn, Xcc is selected from Pro or Arg and the amino acids that can substitute Pro and Arg.

The preferred amino acids that can replace GIy include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. β-Ala, Ala, VaI ₁ Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (He). The preferred amino acids that can replace GIn include a side chain having an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), eg, Asn, Lys, Om, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline, and canavanine.

The preferred amino acids which can replace Arg include a side chain having a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Pro, Lys, His, desmosine and lsodesmosin.

According to the invention, Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred as Rigin analogues.

ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. β-Ala, Ala, VaI, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (He). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides contain at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group which is predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), for example GIn, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and Cana. vanin. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups. Further preferred peptides of the type a according to the invention are the pentapeptide Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated and / or esterified derivatives and / or their physiologically tolerated salts, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys Ser, available under the name Matrixyl from Sederma.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which is N-acylated and / or esterified and / or can be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and in the skin the release of growth factors such as TGF-β and subsequently stimulates collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis (type a), in a total amount of 0.000001-2.5% by weight, preferably 0.00001-0.5-1% by weight , Particularly preferably 0.0001 - 0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.0025 - 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the Gesamtzusammen¬ tion included.

Preferred peptides of the type b are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Om, Lys-Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid) and Dap-Val-Lys, the Tripeptidsequen- zen, which are the subject of WO 2004/099237 A1, and the N-acylated and / or esterified derivatives of these tripeptides and / or their physiologically acceptable Salt. A particularly preferred type b peptide is palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. As available from Pentapharm under the name SYN ^® -COLL According CTFA-online.org is the INCI name of SYN ^® -COLL at the time of this application, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, but is called "technical name" palmitoyl tripeptide-3 specified.

According to CTFA-online.org, currently, that is, at the time of this application, the INCI name tripeptides-3 for a tripeptide with the building blocks GIy, Ser and VaI, which is available under the trade name ATPeptide. The priority date of this application was the INCI name for the commercial product ATPeptide Tripeptide-4. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one tripeptide which can be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or as a physiologically acceptable salt and which binds to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys of thrombospondin I Growth factor TGF-ß and thus the collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis activated (type b), in a total amount of 0.000001 - 2 - 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001 - 0.5 - 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 0.1% by weight and, most preferably, 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, in each case based on the content of active substance in the overall composition.

Peptides of the type c which are preferred according to the invention are selected from the hexapeptide Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, the N-acylated and / or esterified derivatives and / or the physiologically tolerable salts thereof, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, which is available under the name Biopeptide EL from Sederma. Further peptides of the type c which are preferred according to the invention are the hexapep tides and / or their N-acylated derivatives Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, for example peptides 02 from Vincience), the hexapeptide derivative , which is available under the trade name Argireline from Lipotec and on the priority date of this application according to CTFA-online.org the INCI name "acetyl-hexapeptide-3" wore, while the filing date of this application, the INCI name "acetyl-hexapeptide-8 "and" acetyl-hexapeptide-3 "is given as" technical name ", hexapeptide-4 (containing lysine, threonine and serine building blocks, eg Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), myristoyl Hexapeptide-4 (eg Lipopeptide M 230 from TPI), hexapeptide-5 (containing glutamic acid, isoleucine, proline, tyrosine and valine building blocks, eg Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptides -5 (eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI), hexapeptide-6, containing alanine, arginine and methionine building blocks, a hexane apeptid, available under the tradename Collasyn 614VG from TPI and bearing the INCI name myristoyl hexapeptide-6 on the priority date of this application, while having the INCI name Myristoyl Hexapeptide-12 on the filing date of this application according to CTFA-online.org ( "Technical name" = myristoyl hexapeptide-6), hexapeptide-8 (e.g. TPI's Collasyn 6KS), a hexapeptide derivative with the building blocks lysine, serine and threonine, which is available under the tradename Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI and whose INCI name on the priority date was myristoyl hexapeptide-8, at the filing date Myristoyl hexapeptide-13, hexa-peptide-9 (eg, Collaxyl from Vincience), and hexapeptide-10 (eg, Seriseline from Lipotec). Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which is N-acylated and / or esterified and / or can be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and the collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblasts is stimulated by a different mechanism than the peptide a) or b) (type c), in a total amount of 0.000001-2.5% by weight, preferably 0.00001-0.5 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.001 - 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition included.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, in addition to the peptides of type a and b and optionally c, at least one further cosmetic active ingredient containing the cosmetic effect of the peptides used according to the invention type a and / or b and / or optionally c in unexpected Is increased and which is selected from monomers, oligomers without stimulating effect on collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances, DNA or RNA oligonucleotides, natural betaine compounds, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances, α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone - or salt form, flavonoids and flavonoid-rich Pflanzen¬ extracts, isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts, polyphenols and polyphenol-rich plant extracts, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, silymarin, ectoine, inorganic and organic UV filter substances, self-tanning, skin-lightening, skin-soothing, moisturizing and sebum-regulating active ingredients and mixtures of these active substances.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide, which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and that in the skin stimulates the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and the tripeptide, which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and by binding to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys of thrombospondin I the growth factor TGF At least one further cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from monomers, oligomers without stimulating effect on collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis and polymers of Amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances.

Monomers of the amino acids and / or of the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or esters thereof which are preferred according to the invention are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, desmosine, glutamine, Glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, zinc and Natniumpyroglutamat and sodium lauroylglutamate. The C ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl radical with which the abovementioned amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is preferably selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, Nonanoyl, decanoyl, undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radicals. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₈ -acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents.

With the abovementioned C ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl radicals, the amino acids which carry an OH group can also be esterified at this OH group. A preferred example of this according to the invention is hydroxyproline, which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C 1 -C 4 -fatty acid residues, more preferably dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, which is e.g. B. Sepilift DPHP available from the company Seppic.

The physiologically tolerated salts of the inventively preferred peptide or amino acid active substances containing acid groups and can form salts are preferably selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, Alu¬ minium, zinc and manganese salts , Particularly preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

Oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids which are preferred according to the invention consist of 2 to 19 amino acid units. The oligomers of the amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, their esters and their physiologically acceptable salts without particularly stimulating effect on collagen gene and / or fibronectin synthesis are selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, Penta, hexa or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt. Particularly preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides according to the invention are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val-Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn -Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-.beta.-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester (eg, calmosensins from Sederma), carnosine (.beta.-Ala-His), and N-palmitoyl-Pro Arg. Particularly preferred according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Lys-Pro-VaI, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (tripeptides-2), an under the trade name ATPeptide receives lices and tripeptide to be obtained via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ . N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, VaI-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, which are particularly preferred according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides. Leu, Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-Benzyl-oxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for the inhibition of desquamation). According to the invention, particularly preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides are Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (eg modulenes from Vincience), a hexapeptide Derivative which is available under the trade name SNAP-7 from Centerchem and whose INCI name on the priority date was "acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1" according to CTFA-online.org, while at the time of this application the INCI name was given on the priority date according to CTFA -online.org "acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-6" rings and "acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1" is indicated as so-called "technical name", furthermore hexapeptide-2 (eg melanostatine-DM from Vincience), Val-Val Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine-homophenylalanine-Trp (hexapeptide-7) and hexapepten-11 (eg Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively particularly preferred pentadecapeptide is z. For example, the raw material Vinci 01 from Vincience (Pentadeca- peptide-1). Another inventively particularly preferred optional amino acid oligomer without influence on collagen and / or Fibronectinsynthese is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (eg, available under the trade name "Glistin" of exsymol).

Preferred polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids according to the invention consist of 20 to 100 amino acid units. According to the invention, particularly preferred polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected from plant and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. Elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of esters and / or salts. Vegetable protein hydrolysates, eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ^® (Diamalt) Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda). Particularly preferred are soy protein hydrolysates, e.g. For example, the commercial products phytokines from Coletica or Ridulisse C from Silab. Naturally, protein hydrolysates may also contain monomeric amino acids and oligopeptides; Their composition is usually not defined.

Preference according to the invention is the use of acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® ^® or Crotein (Croda).

Also preferred according to the invention are cationized protein hydrolysates. Particular preference is given to cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of from 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably from 250 to 5,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized. As typical examples of inventively used cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are some of ^th under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Stear Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silica, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl SiCl Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the polymers of the amino acids are selected from DNA repair enzymes.

Particularly preferred DNA repair enzymes according to the invention are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter abbreviated to "T4N5" below. These two enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes. DNA repair is defined as the cleavage or removal of UV-induced pyrimidine dimers from the DNA.

Photolyase is the abbreviation for deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3. A particularly effi¬ tient photolyase comes from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine microorganism. The photolyase from A. nidulans is now obtained in technically relevant quantities from E. coli. Photolyase relies on light for activation. The enzyme T4 endonuclease V is produced by the αfenV gene of the bacteriophage T4 and belongs to the phosphodiesterases, which hydrolytically cleave the nucleic acids at the (5 ^* -3 ^x ) bond. T4N5 is also active without the influence of light.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the Pro¬ duktbezeichnung Photosome ™, liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. B. under the name Ultrasome ™ from AGI Dermatics, USA, available.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain Photosome ™ and / or Ultrasome ™ in total amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight and more preferably 1.0-0.4% by weight. %, based on the total Zusam¬ composition.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the monomers, oligomers without stimulating action on collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis or polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or C ₂ -C ₂₄ amino acid esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances in a total amount of 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 3 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the monomers, oligomers have no stimulating effect on the collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis and / or polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, their esters and / or the physiologically tolerated salts of these substances in supported form applied before, insbeson ular finely divided, powdered substrates such as silica gel, especially Aerosil ^® grades, talc, microsponges, modified starches and starch derivatives, kris¬ Talliner cellulose, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin, polymer particles of nylon, polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, (Meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, which may be crosslinked, polyesters, polyamides, polyisocyanates styrenes, Teflon and / or silicones. A particularly preferred raw material of this type are the Vegetal Filling Spheres, applied to silica gel the product series "Aerosil ^®" wheat protein available from Coletica.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of type a and b and optionally c, at least one DNA oligonucleotide or one RNA oligonucleotide.

According to the invention, an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges. The nucleotides be¬ from nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in ß-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine 5'-triphosphate).

An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one DNA oligonucleotide and / or RNA oligonucleotide in a total amount of 0.00001-1.5% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1-0, 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.0005 - 0.01 wt .-%, based on the total composition tion.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one natural betaine compound. Natural betaine compounds used according to the invention are naturally occurring compounds having the atomic grouping R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^" according to IUPAC rule C-816.1 So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor are they other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge are formally O, S, B or C, but which do not conform to IUPAC Rule C-816.1 Natural preferred betaine compounds according to the invention are betaine ( Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^" ) and camitine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^" ), each with Me = methyl. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt. -%, in each case based on the total composition included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate, into consideration. The compositions according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in a total amount of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total composition.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

- Vitamin B _1, thiamine trivial name, chemical designation 3 - [(4 ^{'-amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl)} methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.

- Vitamin B ₂ , trivial name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) -benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3H, 10H) -dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in total amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.

- Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

- Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, instead of as well as in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol also derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (I) can be used.

(I)

Preference is given to the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ⁶ independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or one or two ¬ unsaturated, linear or branched C ₂ -C ₄ - hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ - hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or di- ₂ unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ - hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) - furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), all stereoisomers being expressly included. The extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative according to the invention is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), where in formula (I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 represent} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.

The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and the 2-furanone derivatives are in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder not a uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols. Vitamin B ₆ is in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%, included.

- Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-c (] -imidazole-4-valeric acid. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%, included.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total composition. The use of the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl glucoside may be preferred according to the invention , The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred according to the invention.

The vitamin E group includes tocopherol, in particular α-tocopherol, and its derivatives Deri. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Tocopherol and its derivatives are preferably present in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.

Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B ₇ (see above). The fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group, which are based on the basic structure of 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, include phylloquinone (vitamin K ₁ ), farno- quinone or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K ₃ ). Vitamin K is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one vitamin, provitamin or a vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and their esters from the group comprising vitamin A palmitate (retinyl palmitate), panthenol , Pantolactone, nicotinic acid amide, pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, ascorbyl palmitate, acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate and the tocopherol esters, especially tocopheryl acetate.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboholic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form. Preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-octadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gularic acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, Glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. Preferred esters of the acids according to the invention are selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or at least one derivative thereof in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5 - 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 - 2 wt .-%, each based on the total Zusam¬ composition containing.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract. The flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the flavanones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), the aurones and the isoflavones. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosyl-cerecetin, hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4' -methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside, hesperetin-7-o-rhamnoglucoside), neohesperidin, rutin (3,3 \ 4,7,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3,5 dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxy- ethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-aL-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3.3 ^{L of} _I 4 ^L , 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy ) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-.alpha.-L-mannopyranosyl) .beta.-D-glucopyranoside), diosmin (3 ', 4', 7-trihydroxy-5-methoxyflavanone-7 -rhamnoglucoside), eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (^. δJ-trihydroxyflavone-glucoside). Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside.

Also preferred are the constructed from two flavonoid biflavonoids, z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one flavonoid in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the flavonoid active substance in the entire cosmetic composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract. The isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted here at the isoflavoneides. For the purposes of the present invention, isoflavones are to be understood as meaning substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, hydrogenation of which may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation under Formation of a carbonyl group in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin. In the isoflavone glycosides which are preferred according to the invention, the isoflavones are glycosidically linked to at least one sugar via at least one hydroxy group. Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin. It is furthermore preferred according to the invention if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a vegetable extract. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained, for example, by pressing or extracting from plants such as soy, in particular from the soybean seeds, red clover or chickpeas, in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art. Particular preference is given to using isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of soya-derived extracts in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline from Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.

Compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 1 wt.%, Preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt. , in each case based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one polyphenol or a polyphenol-rich plant extract.

According to the invention, polyphenols are aromatic compounds which contain at least two phenolic hydroxyl groups in the molecule. These include <he three dihydroxybenzenes catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, furthermore phloroglucin, pyrogallol and hexahydroxybenzene. In nature, free and etherified polyphenols occur, for example, in floral dyes (anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acyl polyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives , Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechols, usnic acid, and tannins are the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and digalloylgallic acid. Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechols, that is, the derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, that is, the derivatives of leucoanthocyanidins which preferably carry phenolic hydroxyl groups in the 5,7,3 ', 4', 5-position Epicatechin and epigallocatechin, as well as those from it Self-condensation tannins. Such tannins are preferably not used in isolated pure substance but as extracts of tannin-rich plant parts, eg. Extracts of catechu, quebracho, oak bark and pine bark, as well as other tree bark, leaves of green tea (camellia sinensis) and mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins.

A particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Sepivinol R, an extract of red wine, available from Seppic. Another particularly preferred polyphenol rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Crodarom Chardonnay, an extract from the cores of the Chardonnay grape, available from Croda.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one polyphenol in a total amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.01 to 3% by weight, in each case on the entire cosmetic composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one ubiquinone or one ubiquinol or a derivative thereof. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. Ubiquinones preferred according to the invention have the formula (II):

(H)

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Particularly preferred is the ubiquinone of formula (II) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one ubiquinone, ubiquinol or a derivative thereof in one Total amount of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition tion included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, silymarin. According to the invention, silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was previously regarded as a uniform substance. The main constituents of silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydinin, which belong to the group of Flavanolignans belong.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain silymarin in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, ectoine. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain ectoine in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance. The UV filter substances are liquids which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.

The organic UV filters used according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, Benzimidazolen, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1, 3,5-triazines, mono¬ meren and oligomeric 4,4-Diarylbutadiencarbonsäureestern and. -carboxamides, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzalmalonsäureestern, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the said components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives are present in a pigmentary, ie undissolved form, for example in particle sizes of 10 nm to 300 nm. According to the invention particularly preferred oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphe- nyl) propane-1, 3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4 ^* -methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester Ethyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene), salicylic acid-2 ethylhexyl ester, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, methyl salicylate (SSδ-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone, available under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF), 4-methoxy-benzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester, bonded to polymers UV filter, z. B. the 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer with the INCI name Dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS No. 207574 74-1, Parsol ^® SLX), triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, available) under the name Tinosorb S from CIBA, dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, available) under the name Uvasorb HEB from Sigma 3V ^®, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl- 1 '-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine (ethylhexyl Tri¬ Azone, Uvinul ^® T 150), 2-t4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazin-2- yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6), 2,4-bis- [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino ] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS no. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ^® from 3V Sigma), the benzotriazole derivatives of 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6 - (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) (Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H-benzotriazole -2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical), 2- (2 ^f-hydroxy-3 ', 5 ^I -di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS no. : 025973-551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5 '-octylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS no. 003147-75-9), 2- (2 ^{I-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl)} benzotriazole (CAS-No. 2440-22-4), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl] - ((trimethylsilyl) oxy ] disiloxanyl) propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy ] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or Aniso triazine, available as Tinosorb S from CIBA ^®), 2,4-bis - {[ 4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, 2,4-bis - [4 - (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis- [4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis- [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4 Bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1-methylpyrrol-2-yl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-sily 1-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ^l, 1 ^l, 1 ^l, 3 ^l, 5 ^l, 5 ^l, 5 ^l -Heptamethylsiloxy 2-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and mixtures of the said components.

Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1, 4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium , Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- and GlucammoniumsalΣe, in particular the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 at Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro is available from Symrise and the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3 ¹ -5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate ( CAS No.: 180898-37-7) which is obtainable, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP from Symrise, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bionylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts with the INCI name Terephthalydene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS.No. .: 90457-82-2, available as Mexoryl SX from Chimex).

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, for example, solutions of the UV-A filter 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) in comparable make various UV-B filters. Therefore, in a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2: 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio being between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

According to the invention, the organic UV filter substances in amounts of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1.0 to 15 wt .-% and extraordinarily preferably 3.0 - 10 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, contain.

According to the invention, the inorganic UV filter substances are present in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, more preferably 1-10-0% by weight and exceptionally preferably 2, 0 - 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, tion.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one self-tanning agent. Self-tanning active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose and 5,6-dihydroxyindoline. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one self-tanning active ingredient in a total amount of 0.01-15% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0-5% by weight. -%, and most preferably 2.0 - 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one skin-lightening active ingredient. According to the invention preferred skin lightening agents are selected from ascorbic acid, the esters of ascorbic acid with phosphoric acid and / or organic C ₂ -C ₂ o-carboxylic acids and their alkali and Erdalkalimetallsal¬ zen, thereof kojic acid, hydroquinone, arbutin, mulberry extract, and licorice extract and mixtures thereof. Both as a single substance and as a mixture, the ascorbic acid derivatives and kojic acid are preferred. Particularly preferred are sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl monopalmitate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl monostearate, ascorbyl distearate, ascorbyl monoethyl hexanoate, ascorbyl diethylhexanoate, ascorbyl monooctanoate, ascorbyl dioctanoate, ascorbyl monoisostearate and ascorbyl diisostearate. The inventively extraordinarily preferred ascorbic acid derivatives are sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one skin-lightening active ingredient in a total amount of from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition ,

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one skin-soothing active ingredient. Skin-calming active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from allantoin, α-bisabolol and α-lipoic acid, extracts from Centella asiatica, for example obtainable under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, glycyrrethic acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z. Sold under the trade name Calmsphere by Soliance, mixtures of cereal waxes, extracts of shea butter and Argania spinosa oil with the INCI name "Spent grain wax and Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania Spinosa Kernel OiI ", as available, for example, under the trade name Stimu-Tex AS from Pentapharm, extracts from Vanilla Tahitensis, as described, for example, under the trade name Vanirea (INCI: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract). Alginhydrolysaten, as are available, for example, under the trade name Phycosaccharide, in particular phycosaccharides AI, from the company Codif, extracts from Bacopa Monniera, as for example under the trade name Bacocalmine extracts from the Rooibos plant, such as those obtainable, for example, under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE from Cosmetochem, yeast extracts, particularly preferably the commercial product Drieline (INCI name "sorbitol, Yeast Extract"). ), available from Lanatech, the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, as described, for example, under the trade name phytocohesins (INCI: Sodium Be ta-sitosteryl sulfates) from the company Vincience, aminodicarboxylic acids having a carbon chain length of 3 to 6 carbon atoms and their physiologically acceptable salts, preferably selected from aminomalonic acid, aminosuccinic acid (= aspartic acid), aminoglutaric acid and aminoadipic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts such as Potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate, and any mixtures of these substances. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one skin-soothing active ingredient in a total amount of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight and most preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight. %, in each case based on the total composition, ent.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one moisturizing active ingredient. According to the invention preferred feuchtigkeitsspenden- de active ingredients are selected from deoxy sugars, particularly preferably rhamnose and fucose, polysaccharides, which contain at least one deoxysugar block be¬ Sonders preferably made of the commercial products Fucogel ^® (INCI name Biosaccha- ride Gum-1) from Solabia, Rhamnosoft ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2) from Solabia, Fucogenol ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-3) from Solabia and glyco- film ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4) from Solabia, further mixtures of the above, at least a deoxy sugar component-containing polysaccharides, such as the mixture of Biosaccharide Gum-2 and Biosaccharide Gum-3, er¬ hältlich as the commercial product plus Elastinol ^® from Solabia, further urea, (2-hydroxy ethyl) urea, betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^" ), glycosaminoglycans, more preferably hyaluronic acid, dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin 6-sulfate, and any mixtures of these substances.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one moisturizing active ingredient in a total amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight and exceptionally preferably from 0.1 to 1 or 2 wt .-%, each based on the total Zusam¬ composition containing.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one sebum-regulating active substance. Sebum-regulating active substances which are preferred according to the invention are selected from azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-oecanediol, which are used according to the invention as the particularly preferred triple combination in the commercial product acnacidol PG from Vincience, furthermore from the commercial product azeloglicina (potassium azeloyl diglycinate) Sinerga, Extracts of Spiraea Ulmaria, as they are eg. B. Silab contained in the product Seboregul the company to continue (as Sepicontrol A5 ^® z. By Seppic) water and oil soluble extracts of Hamamelis, burdock and nettles, Zimtbaumextract, Chrysanthe¬ menextrakt (z. B. Laricyl ^® by Laboratoires Serobiologiques) and the Wirkstoffmischun¬ gen Asebiol ^® BT 2 (Laboratoires Serobiologiques, INCI: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, glycerol, panthenol, allantoin, biotin) and antiobesity factor ^® COS 218/2-A (Cosmetochem, INCI: aqua, cetyl-PCA, PEG-8 isolauryl thioether, PCA, cetyl alcohol).

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient in a total amount of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight. -%, in each case based on the total composition included.

Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic kosme¬ tables use of a) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide, the N-acylated and / or esterified and / or physiologically acceptable Salt may be present and which stimulates in the skin the release of growth factors such as TGF-β and subsequently collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis, and b) at least a tripeptide which may be acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and which binds to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys of thrombospondin I the growth factor TGF-.beta. and thus the collagen and / or Activated fibronectin, in a cosmetic or dermatological carrier intended for topical application

- Treatment of mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, and / or

- Improvement of the skin compatibility of skin treatment products with anti-aging effect, in particular anti-wrinkle agents.

Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic kosme¬ tables use of a) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide, the N-acylated and / or esterified and / or physiologically acceptable Salt may be present and that in the skin the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently stimulates collagen and / or Fibronectinsynthese, and b) at least one tripeptide which may be acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and by binding to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys of Thrombospondins I the growth factor TGF-ß and thus activates the collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis, and in addition to the components a) and b) c) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which N-acylated and / or may be esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and that stimulates collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblasts by a mechanism other than peptide a) or b) in a cosmetic or dermatological carrier intended for topical application

Advantageously, the cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water-in-oil or water in-oil-in-water emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, a hydrogel, a lipogel, a mono- or multiphase solution, a foam, a powder or a mixture with at least one polymer suitable as a medical adhesive. The compositions may also be presented in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm, in which case the carrier may be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils In a particular embodiment of the compositions according to the invention, the agents are present as microemulsions In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood as meaning not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called "PIT" emulsions These emulsions are systems with the three components Water, oil and emulsifier which are present at room temperature as an oil-in-water emulsion. When these systems are heated, microemulsions are formed in a certain temperature range (referred to as phase inversion temperature or "PIT"), which on further heating in water-in-oil emulsions On cooling, O / W emulsions are again formed, but they are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions having a mean particle diameter of less than 400 nm and in particular of about 100 to 300 nm. According to the invention, those micro- or "PIT" emulsions may be preferred which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm. In the embodiment as emulsion, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one surface-active substance as emulsifier or dispersant. Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, adducts of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear C ₈ -C ₂₂ -FeWaIkOhOIe, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -FeWSaUrCn and C ₈ -C ₁₅ alkylphenols, Ci ₂ - C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto C ₃ -C ₆ -polyols, in particular onto glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products on methylglucoside-fatty acid esters, "FeWsäurealkanolamide and fatty acid glucamides, C ₈ - C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component being preferred, mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and FeW alcohols, z. For example, the commercially available product Montanov ^® 68, addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated Sterols, in particular cholesterol, lanosterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol, and also mycosterols, phospholipids, especially glucose phospholipids, fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives, preferably polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydro - xystearat (Dehymuls ^® PGPH commercial product) and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Lameform ^® TGI Handels¬ product) as well as linear and branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn - salts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent. In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 and below is included. Such suitable emulsifiers are, for example, compounds of the general formula R ¹ -O-R ² in which R ^{1 is} a primary linear alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group having 20-30 C atoms and R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a group having the formula - (C _n H _2n O) _x -H with x = 1 or 2 and n = 2-4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group having 4-6 C atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups. Further preferred emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 and below are the adducts of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenic acid or erucic acid. Preferably, the monoesters of C ₁₆ -C ₃ o fatty acids with polyols such. As pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methyl glucose. Examples of such products are z. B. sorbitan monobehenate or pentaerythritol mono- erucat.

As optional components, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one conditioning agent. According to the invention, conditioning substances are understood to mean substances which are absorbed by keratinic materials, in particular on the skin, and improve the physical and sensory properties. Conditioners smooth the top layer of the skin and make it soft and supple. Conditioning agents which are preferred according to the invention are selected from fatty substances, in particular vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil, lanolin and its derivatives, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, z. B. di-n-octyl ether and n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, fatty acids, especially linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C ₈ . ₃ o-fatty acids, fatty alcohols, particularly saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 4-30 carbon atoms, which are ethoxylated with 1-75, preferably 5-20 ethylene oxide units and / or with 3-30, preferably 9-14 propylene oxide units may be propoxylated, ester oils, ie esters of C ₆ - ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ . ₃ o-fatty alcohol alkyl hydroxycarboxylates, dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol diol or propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), symmetri¬ rule, unsymmetric or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. As glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl (Cetiol ^® CC), mono, - di- and Trifettsäure- esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, which are ethoxylated with 1-10, preferably 7-9 ethylene oxide units kön¬ nen, z. B. PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, waxes, especially insect waxes, Pflan¬ zenwachsen, fruit waxes, ozokerite, micro waxes, ceresin, paraffin waxes, tri glycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated Ci ₆ .3o-fatty acids, eg. B. hardened th triglyceride fats, phospholipids, for example, soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and kephalin, silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxan and silicone polymers, which may be crosslinked if desired, for. B. polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes having the earlier INCI name dimethicone copolyol, as well as polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups, preferably substances with the INCI names dimethiconol, Amodimethicone or trimethylsilylamodimethicone.

The amount used of the fatty substances is 0.1-50% by weight, preferably 0.1-20% by weight and more preferably 0.1-15% by weight, in each case based on the total skin treatment agent.

Other suitable additives are thickeners, for. B. natural and synthetic clays and phyllosilicates such as bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite or Laponite ^® , or anionic polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the acidic groups wholly or partly as sodium , Potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt, and wherein at least one nonionic monomer may be contained. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylates, methacrylates, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. These copolymers may also be present in crosslinked form. Suitable commercial products are Sepigel ^® 305 Simulgel® ^® 600, Simulgel® ^® NS and Simulgel® ^® EC SEPPIC. Further particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ^®. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C _3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydride and 2-20% of optionally substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated C _10-30 carboxylic acids, the copolymer having the The above-mentioned crosslinking agents can be crosslinked. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^® and Carbopol ^® - types 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).

Suitable nonionic polymers include polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, for. B. the commercial products Mowiol ^® and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidones, z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF) ver¬ be driven.

Other suitable additives are antioxidants, preservatives, solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, adsorbents and fillers such as talc and Veegum ^®, perfume oils, pigments and dyes for coloring the composition, substances position suitability for adjusting the pH, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, pentane, isopentane, isobutane, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it thereto.

Investigation of the influence of type a and type b peptides on the synthesis of fibronectin on skin models

Skin models were, as in Schlotmann et al. (Schlotmann, K. et al., InL J. Cosm. ScL, 23 (2001) 309-318). Over a period of a total of 6 days, the oil-in-water emulsions to be investigated (formulations 1 to 3) were topically applied. Subsequently, the cultures were harvested, fixed and made 5 micron thick sections. Fibronectin was visualized by immunohistochemical staining.

The skin model tissue cultures were treated with the following formulations:

Figures A-F show fluorescence images of the dermis prepared and printed under identical conditions. Figures A, C and E are from tissue culture 1, Figures B, D and F are from tissue culture 2. The epidermis shows no staining and is therefore not visible on the images. The brightly colored areas represent fibronectin.

FIGS. A and B show tissue which has been treated only with the carrier (= formulation 1). Figures C and D show tissue with the carrier containing 2.0 ppm of palmitoyl tripeptides-1 and 1.0 ppm palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 (= Formulation 2, containing only type a peptides in the form of the raw material Matrixyl 3000 Sederma) behan¬ delt. Figures E and F show tissue bound to the support containing 2.0 ppm palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and 1.0 ppm palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 and 20 ppm palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys and palmitoyl tripeptides-5 (= formulation 3, containing the raw materials Matrixyl 3000 and Syn-COLL) was treated.

When using type a-peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3), there was only a slight increase in the protein level of fibronectin (C, D versus A, B) compared to the peptide-free control. On the other hand, pictures E and F show that the combination of peptides of type a (palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3) and b (palmitoyl tripeptide-5) led to a significant increase in the fluorescence intensity for fibronectin.

All data are in wt .-%, based on the total composition.

1. Oil-in-water emulsions 1. Skin creams

2. Skin creams:

3rd day creams:

4. Day Creams with SPF:

5th day creams:

Skin creams based on a lipoprotein cream

2. Water-in-oil emulsion

3. Water-in-silicone emulsion

3. Cleaning preparations

1. Tonic preparations:

2-phase wellness massage fluid for body and scalp

Examples of compositions for soaking wipes

Various viscose nonwovens were equipped with these impregnating compositions. Perforated, unperforated, dimpled, single-ply, two-ply and three-ply nonwovens were finished. The wipes were used both as wet wipes and as dry wipes (that is, after finishing the wipes to a residual water content of less than 10 wt .-%, preferably less than 5 wt .-%, dried) were used.

Example 1 illustrates a soak composition for a lotion and make-up stripper cloth.

Example 2 illustrates a soak composition for a self-tanner cloth. Example 3 illustrates a soak composition for a sunscreen cloth. Example 4 illustrates a soak composition for a facial cleansing wipe.

Skin lightening anti age matrix patch

Skin soothing anti-aging reservoir plasters

List of raw materials used

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition for the topical treatment of the skin, comprising in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which is N-acylated and / or esterified and / or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and in the skin, the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently the collagen and / or Fibronectinsynthese stimulated and b) at least one tripeptide, which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and which by binding to the sequence Arg-Phe -Lys of thrombospondin I activates the growth factor TGF-ß and thus the collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis.

2. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1, characterized in that in addition to the components a) and b) c) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which is N-acylated and / or esterified and / or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and that stimulates collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblasts by a mechanism other than peptide a) or b).

3. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that at least one peptide of the type a, b or c is N-acylated and / or esterified with one, preferably linear, Cs-C ^ fatty acid and, where appropriate is present as a physiologically acceptable salt.

4. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of vorstehen¬ claims, characterized in that the peptide a) is selected from the tripeptides Gly-His-Lys and Gly-His-Arg, the tetrapeptide Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg and the Pentapeptide Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and their N-acylated and / or esterified Deri¬ derivatives and / or physiologically acceptable salts thereof.

5. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the tripeptide b) is selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab, Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Om, Lys- Val-Dap and Dap-Val-Lys and their N-acylated and / or esterified derivatives and / or the physiologically acceptable salts thereof.

6. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the peptide c) is selected from the hexapeptide Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, the N-acylated and / or esterified derivatives and / or the physiologically acceptable salts thereof.

7. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one peptide a) in a total amount of 0.000001 - 2 - 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001 - 0.5 - 1 wt %, more preferably 0.0001 - 0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.0025 - 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

8. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one tripeptide b) in a total amount of 0.000001 - 2 - 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001 - 0.5 - 1 wt %, more preferably 0.0001 - 0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005 - 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

9. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one peptide c) in a total amount of 0.000001 - 2 - 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001 - 0.5 - 1 wt %, more preferably 0.0001 - 0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.001 - 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition is included.

10. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing at least one further cosmetic active ingredient, selected from: a) monomers, oligomers without stimulating effect on collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ - C ₂₄ acyl amino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances, b) DNA or RNA oligonucleotides, c) natural betaine compounds, d) vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E ₁ H and K and Esters of the abovementioned substances, e) α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone or salt form, f) flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts, g) isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts, h) polyphenols and Polyphenol-rich plant extracts, i) ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, j) silymarin, k) ectoine,

I) inorganic and organic UV filter substances, m) self-tanning active ingredients, n) skin-lightening active ingredients, o) skin-calming active ingredients, p) moisturizing active ingredients, q) sebum-regulating active ingredients, r) and mixtures of these active ingredients a) - q).

11. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ - acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances are selected from

Alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, desmosine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine , Phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoyl glutamate, sodium decanoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myrthoyl glutamate, sodium cetoyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate,

- animal and vegetable protein hydrolysates, - and mixtures of these substances.

12. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -ACyI- amino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances are selected from:

- Animal and vegetable protein hydrolysates, animal and vegetable proteins and DNA repair enzymes

- and mixtures of these substances.

13. Non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of a) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and that in the skin the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently stimulates collagen and / or Fibronectinsynthese, and b) at least one tripeptide which may be acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and by binding to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys of Thrombospondins I the growth factor TGF-ß and thus activates the collagen and / or fibronectin, in a cosmetic or dermatological carrier intended for topical application

Treatment of mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, and / or for

- Improvement of the skin compatibility of anti-aging skin care products, especially anti-wrinkle agents.

14. Non-therapeutic, cosmetic use according to claim 13, characterized in that in addition to the peptides of the type a) and b) c) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide, the N- may be acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and that stimulates collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblasts by a mechanism other than peptide a) or b).