EP2451434A2

EP2451434A2 - Active-ingredient combination for treating mature skin ii

Info

Publication number: EP2451434A2
Application number: EP08875470A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Iris Marina Stadler; Annika Bähren; Alexandra Struwe; Marianne Waldmann-Laue
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2008-10-31
Filing date: 2008-12-17
Publication date: 2012-05-16
Also published as: RU2011121874A; DE102008054117A1; WO2010049011A3; WO2010049011A2

Abstract

The invention relates to topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the treatment of mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment. Said compositions contain a combination of at least one soy protein hydrolysate with an average molecular weight ranging between 600 and 1,000 dalton, preferably 800 dalton, at least one hydrophilic extract of abelmusk seed, at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, silanol ethers, silanol esters and hyaluronic acid salts, and at least one dipeptide, tripeptide, tetrapeptide, pentapeptide or hexapeptide, that can be N-acylated and/or esterified and/or be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and that can stimulate the release of growth factors such as TGF-β and subsequently stimulate collagen and/or fibronectin synthesis in the skin.

Description

Combination of active ingredients for the treatment of mature skin Il

The invention relates to topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for treating mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged or photodamaged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment comprising, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, an active ingredient combination of at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1,000 daltons. preferably 800 daltons, at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds, at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide, the Be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and in the skin, the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently stimulated the collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis included.

A significant consequence of skin aging is the loss of collagen. This is based, on the one hand, on a reduced collagen synthesis in certain skin cells, the fibroblasts, and on the other on an increased collagen degradation, in particular by certain enzymes, such as the so-called matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). In particular, UV-induced expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 results in degradation of collagen-1, which accounts for approximately 85% of the total protein content in the extracellular matrix. In addition to the elements of the cytoskeleton and the gap junction proteins, other proteins provide the skin tissue with mechanical stability. These proteins mediate cell-extracellular matrix (ECM) binding. Part of the ECM is z. As the collagen or hyaluronic acid. The binding of cells to ECM proteins is mediated by receptors located on the cell surface. Thus, e.g. the surface receptor CD44, whose expression is increased, for example, by apple seed extracts, to hyaluronic acid.

Recent studies have confirmed the hypothesis that collagen degradation disturbs the integrin-mediated interplay between collagen matrix and fibroblasts. It has been shown that on a previously damaged, contracted and low tension collagen matrix the further collagen synthesis is limited. The loss of mechanical tension appears to be causally involved in the decreased synthesis of new collagen (J.Varani et al., Reduced Fibroblast Interaction with Intact Collagen as a Mechanism for Depressed Collagen Synthesis in Photodamaged Skin, J Invest Dermatol , 1471-1479, 2004).

There is a great deal of interest in effective cosmetic products that are able to sustainably balance the age-related loss of collagen, thus altering the appearance of the aging ones Improve skin. Cosmetic anti-aging products therefore often contain active ingredients that are able to stimulate collagen synthesis.

Topical compositions containing peptides that stimulate collagen synthesis are known in the art. Such compositions show some anti-wrinkle performance but as a result are not yet satisfactory. Topical skin care products with proven anti-wrinkle performance, the z. As contain tretinoin or α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, are often due to the necessary higher concentrations of these drugs only moderately or even poorly tolerated by the skin. Other agents with proven anti-wrinkle performance are unstable, e.g. towards chemical degradation, eg. Tretinoin or flavonoids. Phytoflavones, which also have an anti-wrinkle performance, can be hormonal and are therefore less preferred for cosmetics.

In contrast, the prior art lacks effective preparations which are able to repair existing aging-related deficits, in particular in the area of the extracellular matrix.

It was an object of the present invention to provide topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for treating mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, with an activity optimized over the prior art. Another object was to provide topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the treatment of photodamaged or mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, with an optimized skin compatibility.

It has now been found, surprisingly and to those of ordinary skill in the art, that topical skin treatment compositions containing at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having a mean molecular weight in the range of 600-1,000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, at least one hydrophilic Extract of ambrette seeds, at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which N-acylates and / or esterifies and / or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and which stimulates in the skin the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently the collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis, the disadvantages of the prior art are eliminated and compositions for treatment mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged skin, esp especially for anti-wrinkle treatment, whose effects on wrinkle smoothing and skin appearance improvement over the prior art compositions are synergistically enhanced and improved. At the same time, it has been found that with compositions comprising, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1,000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds an active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which is N-acylated and / or esterified and / or physiologically acceptable Salt may be present and in the skin, the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently stimulates the collagen and / or fibronectin, contain, an effective anti-wrinkle treatment with improved skin tolerance can be done.

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the topical treatment of the skin, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and d) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which is N-acylated and / or be esterified and / or can be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and in the skin, the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently stimulated the collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis included.

A particularly preferred soy protein hydrolyzate according to the invention having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, is obtainable from Coletica under the trade name phytokines. It stimulates collagen synthesis.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1% by weight 0.001 - 0.1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.005 - 0.05 wt .-% and most preferably 0.006 - 0.01 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds.

The term "hydrophilic extract" is understood according to the invention to mean an extract of ambrette seed which has been extracted with a hydrophilic solvent selected from water, ethanol, at least one polyhydric alcohol having 2 to 9 carbon atoms and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol 3-20 ethylene oxide units which are liquid under normal conditions Preferred polyhydric alcohols having 2 to 9 carbon atoms which are liquid under normal conditions are selected from ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3 Propanediol, glycerol, 1, 2-butylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol and 1, 4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols, such as 1, 2-pentanediol and 1, 5-pentanediol, hexanediols, such as 1, 2-hexanediol and 1, 6- Hexanediol, hexanetriols like 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 2-ethyl-2-hydroxymethyl-1, 3-propanediol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol and triglycerol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances , Preferred water-soluble polyethylene glycols having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units which are liquid under normal conditions are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred hydrophilic solvents are selected from water, 1, 3-butylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, 1, 2-butylene glycol, 1, 4-butylene glycol, ethanol and mixtures thereof. Exceptionally preferred hydrophilic solvents are selected from water as well as mixtures of water and 1,3-butylene glycol.

Preferred hydrophilic extracts of ambrette seeds according to the invention are obtained from pressed and / or ground and / or de-oiled ambrette seeds.

The hydrophobic extracts of ambrette seeds according to the invention contain, based in each case on the dry substance, 1 to 100% by weight, preferably 2 to 80% by weight, more preferably 5 to 60% by weight and most preferably 10 to 50% by weight. -% peptides with 2-10 amino acid units and / or proteins. The hydrophobic extracts of ambrette seed according to the invention protect the fibroblast growth factor (FGF-2 or basic FGF or FGF-ß) from degradation, for example by proteolysis. Numerous growth factors are responsible for the physiological processes in the skin, especially FGF-2, which has a broad spectrum of activity. FGF-2, for example, controls the proliferation of fibroblasts, which in turn facilitates the synthesis of extracellular matrix (ECM) macromolecules such as proteoglycans, glycosaminoglycans such as chondroitin sulfates, keratan sulfate and hyaluronic acid, as well as collagens, elastin, fibrillin and laminin Integrity of the skin are essential. Heparan sulfate-containing proteoglycans of ECM bind FGF-2 and thus regulate its availability or protect the growth factor from degradation by proteolysis. FGF-2 is present in several isoforms. In vertebrates, there are five isoforms with molecular weights of 18; 22; 22.5; 24 and 34 kDa known. Only the 18 kDa form occurs outside the cells, the others are enclosed inside the cell, more precisely in the nucleus. Although FGF-2 is present in the organism in such abundance that it can be purified and characterized, its messenger RNA can not be detected. This fact, and the peculiarity that it is intimately distributed to the basement membrane of the tissues, suggests that it is produced at an initial rate and then released by the cells during development to be stored in the ECM. This storage, if needed, allows FGF-2 release in the adult state to participate in tissue repair and maintain differentiated functions. With age, the supply of FGF-2 decreases, the maximum activity is not guaranteed. Therefore, in order to prevent the loss of skin cells to FGF-2 by proteolysis, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds in a total amount of 0.0001-0.5% by weight, preferably 0.001-0.1% by weight, more preferably 0.005-0.05% by weight and most preferably 0.01-0.04% by weight, based in each case on the content of active substance in the entire composition.

As a further essential ingredient, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid, an important component of the extracellular matrix (ECM), is a glycosaminoglycan with M _R between 50,000 and several million. The basic building block of hyaluronic acid is an aminodisaccharide composed of D-glucuronic acid and Λ / acetyl-D-glucosamine in ß- (1 -> 3) -glycosidic linkage, which is linked to the next unit ß- (1 -> 4) -glycosidically ,

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, in a total amount of 0.002 to 1.5% by weight, preferably 0.003 to 1% by weight. -%, more preferably 0.004 to 0.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.05 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferred Silanolether Silanolester and the hyaluronic acid are selected (available under the designation DSH Exsymol ^® of z. B.), dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (z. B. available under the name ^® DSHC of Exsymol), Sodium Hyaluronate dimethylsilanediol and dimethylsilanediol from Hyaluronate Sodium Hyaluronate dimethylsilanol ,

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, in supported form, in particular applied to finely divided, powdery substrates such as silica gel, in particular Aerosil types, further talc , Microsponges, modified starches and starch derivatives, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin derivatives, nylon polymer particles, polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, which may be crosslinked, polyesters, polyamides , Polystyrenes, teflon and silicones. A particularly preferred raw material of this type are the nanospheres 100 DSH C of exsymol = dimethylsilanol hyaluronates on polystyrene particles. Another particularly preferred raw material of this type are the Hyaluronic Filling Spheres of Coletica = hyaluronic acid on SILICA DIMETHYL SILYLATE particles. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the at least one active ingredient, selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, is present in supported form in a suspension, ethylhexyl palmitate having proved suitable as the suspending agent. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention therefore comprise a suspension of at least one active agent selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, in supported form in 2-ethylhexylhexadecanoate.

Hyaluronic acid suspensions preferably contained in the compositions of the invention contain approximately spherical hyaluronic acid particles, e.g. can be produced by freeze-drying.

A significant consequence of skin aging is the loss of collagen. This is based, on the one hand, on reduced collagen synthesis and, on the other hand, on increased collagen degradation. There is a great deal of interest in effective cosmetic products that are able to sustainably balance the age-related loss of collagen, thereby improving the appearance of aging skin.

Synthesis of collagen and fibronectin in dermal fibroblasts can be induced by growth factors such as tissue growth factor TGF-β Specific chemoattractant peptides are capable of recruiting immune system cells such as mast cells and macrophages, which then release the cells Examples of such peptides which are preferred according to the invention are the pentapeptide Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser (INCI name: pentapeptide-3), the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys (INCI name Tripeptides-1) derived from the α1-pro-collagen and the α2-chain of collagen I, as well as the tripeptide Gly-His-Arg and the tetrapeptide Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg and their N-acylated and / or esterified derivatives and / or physiologically acceptable salts.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one peptide d) is present in a total amount of 0.000001-2% by weight, preferably 0.00001-0.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.0001. 0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.0025 - 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition is included.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and d) the pentapeptide Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys- Ser (INCI name: Pentapeptide-3), which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) at least one Active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and d) the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys (INCI name: tripeptide-1) which is N-acylated and / or esterified and / or as physiologically acceptable salt may be present.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) at least one Active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and d) the tetrapeptide Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt ,

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) at least one Active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and d) the tetrapeptide Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg and the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys (INCI name: tripeptide-1), both independently be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) at least one Silanol ethers of hyaluronic acid, and d) the pentapeptide Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser (INCI name: Pentapeptide-3), which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt.

Further cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydro- c) at least one silanol ether of hyaluronic acid; and d) the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys (INCI name: tripeptide-1) which is N-acylated and / or esterified and / or physiologically acceptable Salt may be present.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) at least one Silanol ethers of hyaluronic acid, and d) the tetrapeptide Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) at least one Silanol ethers of hyaluronic acid, and d) the tetrapeptide Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg and the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys (INCI name: tripeptides-1), both independently N-acylated and / or esterified and / or as physiologically acceptable salt may be present.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) hyaluronic acid and at least one salt of hyaluronic acid, and d) the pentapeptide Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser (INCI name: Pentapeptide-3), which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt ,

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) hyaluronic acid and at least one salt of hyaluronic acid, and d) the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys (INCI name: tripeptide-1), which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) hyaluronic acid and at least one salt of hyaluronic acid, and d) the tetrapeptide Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) hyaluronic acid and at least one salt of hyaluronic acid, and d) the tetrapeptide Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg and the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys (INCI name: tripeptides-1), both independently N-acylated and / or esterified and / or or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) at least one Silanol esters of hyaluronic acid; and d) the pentapeptide Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser (INCI name: pentapeptide-3), which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) at least one Silanol esters of hyaluronic acid, and d) the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys (INCI name: tripeptide-1), which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) at least one Silanol esters of hyaluronic acid; and d) the tetrapeptide Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) at least one Silanol ester of hyaluronic acid, and d) the tetrapeptide Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg and the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys (INCI name: tripeptide-1), both be independently N-acylated and / or esterified and / or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) hyaluronic acid supported form, and d) the pentapeptide Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser (INCI name: Pentapeptide-3), which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) hyaluronic acid supported form, and d) the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys (INCI name: tripeptide-1), which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) hyaluronic acid supported form, and d) the tetrapeptide Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) hyaluronic acid and d) the tetrapeptide Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg and the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys (INCI name: tripeptides-1), both of which are independently N-acylated and / or esterified and / or physiologically acceptable salt may be present.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and d) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which is N-acylated and / or esterified and / or as physiologically compatible Salt may be present and which stimulates in the skin the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently the collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis, in weight ratios of (1-100): (1-100): (1-100): 1 , preferably (10-80): (10-50) :( 10-80): 1.

Particularly surprisingly, it has been observed that the positive effects of the four-component combination a) to d) are significantly faster than with a treatment with only one, two or three of the active ingredients. Already after a single treatment significant improvements in the skin structure and the appearance of the skin were observed.

The protective effect of the hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds is particularly noticeable in long-term use.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to the four-part combination of the active ingredients a) to d), they contain at least one further active ingredient which stimulates collagen synthesis and is selected from

Hydroxyproline which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residues, in particular dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, the tripeptides Gly-His-Lys, Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab, Lys-Phe- Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys,

Lys-Val-Orn, Lys-Val-Dap, Dap-Val-Lys and Gly-His-Arg, the tetrapeptides Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (Rigin), Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro, Val-Val-Arg -Pro, Rigin analogs and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides, the pentapeptide Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, the hexapeptides Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptides -3), hexapeptide-4, hexapeptide-5, hexapeptide-6, hexapeptide-8, hexapeptide-9 and hexapeptide-10, which are N-acylated with at least one, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid and / or esterified

Derivatives of said tri-, tetra-, penta- and hexapeptides, in particular N-palmitoyl-glycerol

His-Lys, N-palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, N-PaI-mitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys- Ser, N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, acetyl-hexapeptide-3, myristoyl

Hexapeptide-5, myristoyl hexapeptide-8 and mixtures of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-

Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,

Retinoids, especially retinol and C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol,

Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment,

Olive leaf extracts (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract),

oleanolic acid,

Oleanol,

Extracts from oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) kernel extract),

Green tea extracts (Camellia sinensis),

Creatine, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances. With a content of at least one other of the above collagen synthesis stimulating agents, the external appearance of the skin is further improved. In particular, the moisture content of the skin can thus be increased.

It may be particularly preferred according to the invention that the amino acids and peptides employed as active ingredient are N-acylated and / or esterified with at least one, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid to improve the penetration into the skin. For the N-acylation and / or esterification C are particularly preferred ₈ -C ₈ fatty acids, most preferably myristic acid are (C ₄₎ and palmitic (C _6). It is furthermore particularly preferred that all the amino acids and peptides used are N-acylated and / or esterified in this way. Also preferred is the substitution of the amino acids and peptides with a benzyloxycarbonyl group at the terminal amino group.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to the four-part combination of the active ingredients a) to d), they also contain at least one further active substance which also stimulates collagen synthesis in a total amount of 0.000001 to 5% by weight. preferably 0.00001 - 2 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005 - 0.5 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they contain in addition to the four combination of the active ingredients a) to d) at least one active ingredient, which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts and is selected from N-acylated and / or esterified soy protein hydrolysates with coconut fatty acids in the form of their alkali metal salts, preferably in the form of the potassium salts,

Ascorbic acid, the esters of ascorbic acid with inorganic and / or organic acids, the ethers of ascorbic acid with mono-, oligo- and polysaccharides and the physiologically acceptable salts of these components, apple kernel extra kten (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), lotus germinating Extracts (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract), extracts of corn kernels (Zea mays (Com) Kernel Extract), reds in extra kte n,

Grape seed extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract), which are preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape,

Extracts of black elderflower (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract), mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita), Hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol and / or resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric acid esters and their salts,

Keratin hydrolysates, in particular wool keratin hydrolysates,

Conchiolinhydrolysaten, the dipeptide L-Citrullyl-L-arginine and its with at least one, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ -

Fatty acid N-acylated and / or esterified derivatives, preferably acetyl citrullo amido arginine,

carnitine,

hypotaurine

L-Glutamylaminoethyl-indole,

Isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts,

Dihydroquercetin (= taxifolin), as well as mixtures thereof.

With a content of at least one other of the above active ingredients, which increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts, the external appearance of the skin is further improved. In particular, the nutrient supply of the skin cells can thus be increased, so that further active ingredients are better absorbed into the skin and show improved efficacy.

An in / out measurement of the mechanical stress of the ECM is difficult to realize. In the present invention, the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts a) was determined by means of a three-dimensional contractible collagen gel formed from native collagen type I and human foreskin fibroblasts or b) according to the increase in expression set forth in the publication WO 2003/053394 A2 of the surface receptor CD44.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extra apple kernel in amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.01-1.6% by weight and more preferably 0.03-1 Wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition included.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol) and / or resveratrol mono- , -di- and - triphosphoric acid esters and their salts. An inventively particularly preferred Resveratrolphosphorsäureester is trisodium resveratrol triphosphates. Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts.

According to the invention, the isoflavones include the isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides. According to the invention, isoflavones are substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, it being possible for hydrogenation to be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation to form a carbonyl group in 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.

In the isoflavone glycosides preferred according to the invention, the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar. Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a plant extract. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art, for example by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soy, in particular from soybean, red clover or chickpeas. Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts obtained from soybean are particularly preferably used in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Lipobelle Soyaglycone (Mibelle AG Cosmetics), Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple kernel extra kt, in particular the commercial product Ederline of Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in total amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0005-0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.001-0.1% by weight .-%, each based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.

Another active ingredient preferred according to the invention, which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts, is dihydroquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), which is also referred to as taxifolin. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active substance which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts, in a total amount of 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0, 00001 - 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005 - 0.5 or 1 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention for the topical treatment of the skin, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrettes C) at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and d) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which is N-acylated and / or be esterified and / or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and in the skin, the release of growth factors such as TGF-β and subsequently stimulated collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis, are characterized in that they further contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from

Monomers and oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, which are different from the obligatory active compounds a), b) and d),

- DNA repair enzymes,

- DNA or RNA oligonucleotides,

- vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C and E and the esters of the abovementioned substances,

α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone and / or salt form,

- Flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plants extra kten,

- ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives,

- Silymarin,

- Ectoin,

inorganic and organic UV filter substances,

- self-tanning,

- soothing,

- moisturizing and

- Sebumregulierenden agents and

- Mixtures of these substances. It has been observed that such active ingredients have an increased activity on the skin optimized by the protein hydrolyzate combination a) to d) according to the invention.

The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, isodesmosine , Isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, VaNn, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and Natri - umstearoylglutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, taurine, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate.

The C ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl radical, with which all of the abovementioned amino acids and oligopeptides (including the obligatory active substances) can be derivatized at the amino group, is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl , Octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl, undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl residue. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents. A particularly preferred acyl radical according to the invention which effects a particularly high availability of the acylated active substance is the palmitoyl radical. The physiologically acceptable salts of the inventively preferred active ingredients containing acid groups and can form salts are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

Preferred oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Preferred, if appropriate, N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides according to the invention are Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), VaI-T rp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-β-Ala-His. N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester (eg calmosensins from Sederma), carnosine (β-Ala-His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. Particularly preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides according to the invention are Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (tripeptide-2), tripeptide-4 (e.g. ATPeptides, available via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ . N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met preferred according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for desquamation inhibition). Preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides according to the invention are Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (eg modulenes from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (cf. eg SNAP-7 from Centerchem), hexapeptide-2 (eg melanostatine-DM from Vincience), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine-homophenylalanine-Trp (hexapeptide-7) and hexapeptide-11 (e.g., Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively particularly preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1).

DNA repair enzymes preferred according to the invention are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter being abbreviated to "T4N5" below. These two enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes. DNA repair is defined as the cleavage or removal of UV-induced pyrimidine dimers from the DNA. Photolyase is the abbreviation for deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3. A particularly efficient photolyase is derived from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine microorganism. The photolyase from A. nidulans is now obtained in technically relevant quantities from E. coli. Photolyase relies on light for activation.

The enzyme T4 endonuclease V is produced by the cfenV gene of bacteriophage T4 and belongs to the phosphodiesterases which hydrolytically cleave the nucleic acids at the (5 ^' -3 ^' ) bond. T4N5 is also active without the influence of light.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name PhotoSomes ™ (INCI name: Water, lecithin, plankton extract) with a protein concentration of 0.25 - 2 mg / ml, liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. B. Ultrasomes ™ (INCI name: Water, lecithin, Micrococcus luteus extract) with a protein concentration of 2-5 mg / ml (measured by the Bradford assay) of AGI Dermatics, USA, available.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention for the topical treatment of the skin, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrettes C) at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and d) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which is N-acylated and / or be esterified and / or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and in the skin, the release of growth factors such as TGF-.beta. And subsequently stimulating collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis are characterized by further comprising at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from Photosomes ™ and / or Ultrasomes ™ in total amounts of 0.1-10 wt. -%, preferably 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably 1, 0 - 4.0 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention for the topical treatment of the skin, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrettes Seed, c) at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and d) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which is N-acylated and / or esterified and / or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and in the skin, the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently stimulates the collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis contain, are characterized in that they further comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from Monomers and oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances in total amounts of 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 5 wt .-% and especially preferably 0.005 to 3 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers and oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances in supported form, in particular applied to finely divided, powdery substrates such as silica gel, in particular Aerosil types, furthermore talc, microsponges, modified starches and starch derivatives, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin derivatives, nylon polymer particles, polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, which may be crosslinked, polyesters, polyamides, polystyrenes, Teflon and silicones. A particularly preferred raw material of this type are the Vegetal Filling Spheres of Coletica.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from DNA oligonucleotides and RNA oligonucleotides.

According to the invention, an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in ß-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine). 5'-triphosphate).

An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide. In the most preferred compositions of the present invention, the DNA oligonucleotides or RNA oligonucleotides are in amounts of 0.00001-5% by weight, preferably 0.0001-1.0% by weight, and more preferably 0.0005-0.5 Wt .-%, based on the total composition. Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they further contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from at least one vitamin, provitamin or a vitamin precursor designated as a vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C and E, the esters and the salts of the aforementioned substances.

For vitamin A according to the present invention, retinol (vitamin A ₁ ), the C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol (= retinyl ester, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate), 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ), retinal and its Isomers, a-frans-retinoic acid, 9-c / s-retinoic acid and 13-c / s-retinoic acid (tretinoin), which are esters of retinoic acid as well as other related substances (synthetic retinoids) counted for their diverse biological activity in particular on growth and differentiation, as well as substances that have a specific biological effect by binding to the retinoid receptors RAR (retinoid acid receptor) and RXR (retinoid X receptor) and cause their activation. Synthetic retinoids are classified into three groups: non-aromatic (eg, isotretinoin), monoaromatic (eg, acitretin), and polyaromatic (so-called arotinoids, eg, tazarotene, which have a specific effect on single retinoid receptors). Particularly preferred compounds according to the invention from the vitamin group A are retinol and the C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid esters of retinol, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

- Vitamin B _1, thiamine trivial name, chemical designation 3 - [(4 ^{^'-amino-2'} -methyl-5 ^{'-pyrimidinyl)} - methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.

- Vitamin B ₂ , common name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) benzo [g] - pteridine-2,4 (3 / - /, 10 / - /) - dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.

- Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.

- Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol, it is also possible to use derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (VIT-I).

(VIT-I)

Preference is given to the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ⁶ independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched one C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono , Di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ - hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative according to the invention is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), where in formula (I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 represent} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.

The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and the 2-furanone derivatives are present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder not a uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ol. Vitamin B ₆ is contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] -imidazole-4-valeric acid. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight. - Folic acid (Vitamin B ₉ , Vitamin B _c ). International generic name for N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid (N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu). Folate is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate, folate is the generic term for all folic acid-active compounds and refers to a class of compounds containing a pteridine ring linked to 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic acid. Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a compound of vitamin character, which is usually found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H ₂ folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H ₄ folate, THF, 5'-methyl). Tetrahydrofolic acid, CH ₃ -H ₄ folate, MeTHF). Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01 to 0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.

- Orotic acid (vitamin B ₁₃ , 1, 2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid). Orotic acid, its choline ester or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.

Active ingredients which are preferred according to the invention and belong to the vitamin C group are selected from ascorbic acid, the esters of ascorbic acid with inorganic and / or organic acids, the ethers of ascorbic acid with mono-, oligo- and polysaccharides, as well as the physiologically tolerated salts of these components. In the case of the physiologically tolerated salts, the zinc, copper and manganese salts and the salts of the alkali and alkaline earth metals, in particular the sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium salts, are particularly preferred. Particularly preferred active ingredients belonging to the vitamin C group are selected from ascorbic acid and the ascorbic acid derivatives sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sodium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl acetate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, chitosan ascorbate and ascorbyl glucoside ,

The vitamin E group includes tocopherol, especially α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Tocopherol and its derivatives are preferably present in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone and / or salt form. Suitable α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutyric acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracenoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erytharic acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxybenzoic acid. 2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. A particularly preferred α-ketocarboxylic acid is pyruvic acid. The esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Further derivatives of the abovementioned acids are their physiologically tolerated salts, preferably the zinc, copper and manganese salts, the salts of the alkali and alkaline earth metals and the ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, particularly preferably the sodium, potassium and potassium salts. , Magnesium and calcium salts.

The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids or β-hydroxycarboxylic acids or their derivatives are preferably present in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 0.5-5% by weight and most preferably 1-2% by weight. -%, in each case based on the total composition included. The .alpha.-hydroxycarboxylic acids, .alpha.-ketocarboxylic acids or .beta.-hydroxycarboxylic acids or their derivatives show a surprisingly better compatibility in conjunction with the active ingredient combination a) to d) according to the invention. Usually, the acid components can cause some irritative effect, especially in higher concentrations. This can be reduced by the active ingredient combination a) to d) according to the invention.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from at least one flavonoid and / or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract.

The flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols) and the aurones. The flavanones and isoflavones according to the invention are expressly excluded from the flavonoids. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone 3-rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α -L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3 (6-O- (6-deoxy-.alpha.-L-mannopyranosyl) .beta.-D-glucopyranoside), eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5, 7)

Trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside).

Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside.

Also preferred are the constructed from two flavonoid biflavonoids, z. In gingko

Species occur. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin and

Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are used in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5

Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the Flavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition used.

The flavonoids, in conjunction with the active ingredient combination a) to d) according to the invention, have a surprisingly better antioxidant effect, which increases the antiaging performance of the flavonoids.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they further contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (UBI-I):

(UBI-I)

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Particularly preferred is the ubiquinone of the formula (UBI-I) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10. According to the invention, the ubiquinones, ubiquinols or derivatives thereof in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition, used.

The ubiquinones and ubiquinols show, in interaction with the active ingredient combination a) to d) according to the invention, a surprisingly better antioxidant effect which increases the antiaging performance of the flavonoids. Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they further contain silymarin. According to the invention, silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was previously regarded as a uniform substance. The main constituents of silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydianin, which belong to the group of flavanolignans. According to the invention silymarin is used in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Silymarin, in conjunction with the active ingredient combination a) to d) according to the invention, has a surprisingly better antioxidant effect, which increases the antiaging performance of silymarin.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they also contain ectoine. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention, ectoine is preferably present in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, based in each case on the total composition. Ectoin causes in conjunction with the active ingredient combination of the invention a) to d) a surprisingly better nutrient supply to the cells of the skin.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they further contain at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance.

The UV filter substances are substances which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again. A distinction is made between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.

The organic UV filters preferred according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomers and oligomeric 4,4-Diarylbutadiencarbon- acid esters and carboxamides, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzalmalonsäureestern, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the said components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives are present in a pigmentary, ie undissolved form, for example in particle sizes of from 10 nm to 300 nm. Oil-soluble UV filters which are particularly preferred according to the invention are 1- (4-tert. Butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4 ^' - Methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester, 2-ethylhexyl A-methoxycinnamate, Propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomethyl salicylate (SSS-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester (also:

Aminobenzophenone, available under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF), 4-methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester, bound to polymers UV filters, eg. B. 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane copolymer with the INCI name Dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS no. 207574-74-1, Parsol ^® SLX) , Triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethyl- hexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, available under the name Tinosorb S from CIBA), Dioctylbutyl- amidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, available under the name Uvasorb HEB from Sigma 3V ^®), 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2 '-ethyl-1' -hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine (ethylhexyl triazone, Uvinul ^® T 150), 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine -2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6), 2,4-bis [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3,5-triazine (CAS no. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ^® from 3V Sigma), the benzotriazole derivatives of 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) [Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H benzotriazole-2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical), 2- (2'-hydroxy-3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole ( CAS No .: 025973-551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-oc tylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS no. 003147-75-9), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 2440-22-4), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6 - [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - ((trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxanes, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or Aniso triazine also available as Tinosorb S from CIBA ^®), 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- ( 4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyl-oxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2 -methoxyethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6 - [4- (ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1-methyl) pyrrol-2 -yl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3 , 5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-methyl-propenyl-oxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4 Bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethyl-siloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and mixtures of the above components. Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, Alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, in particular the sulphonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Symrise , and the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37 -7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP Symrise, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts with the INCI name Terephthalydene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS. 90457-82-2, available as Mexoryl SX from Chimex). Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, solutions of the UV-A-filter 1 can be, for example, (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) in various UV-B Make filters. Therefore, in a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0. The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. According to the invention, the organic UV filter substances are preferably in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, more preferably 0.5-20% by weight, most preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight and more preferably 3.0 - 10 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. According to the invention, the inorganic UV filter substances are preferably in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, more preferably 0.5-10% by weight, most preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight and more preferably 2.0 - 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they further contain at least one self-tanning active ingredient. Self-tanning active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose and 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.

According to the invention, the self-tanning active ingredients are present in a total amount of 0.01-15% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight and most preferably 2.0-4. 0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they further contain at least one skin-soothing active ingredient. Skin-soothing active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from allantoin, α-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, extracts from Centella asiatica, for example obtainable under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, glycyrrethic acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z. B. sold under the trade name Calmsphere by Soliance, mixtures of cereal waxes, extracts of shea butter and Argania Spinosa oil with the INCI name "Spent grain wax and Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania Spinosa Kernel OiI", as z B. under the trade name Stimu-Tex AS available from the company Pentapharm, extracts of vanilla Tahitensis, as they are available, for example, under the trade name Vanirea (INCI: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) from the company Solabia, Alginhydrolysaten, such they are obtainable, for example, from Codif under the trade name Phycosaccharides, in particular phycosaccharides AI, extracts from Bacopa Monniera, as obtainable, for example, under the trade name Bacocalmine from Sederma, extracts from the Rooibos plant, as obtainable, for example, under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE from the company Cosmetochem, yeast extracts, more preferably the commercial pr Drieline (INCI name "sorbitol, Yeast Extract"), available from Lanatech, the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, as described, for. B. under the trade name phytocohesins (INCI: Sodium Beta Sitosterylsulfate) are available from the company Vincience, aminodicarboxylic acids having a C chain length of 3 to 6 carbon atoms and their physiologically acceptable salts, preferably selected from amino malonic acid, aminosuccinic acid (= aspartic acid) , Aminoglutarsäure and aminoadipic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts such as potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate, and any mixtures of these substances.

The skin-soothing active ingredients are preferably present in a total amount of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition. Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they further contain at least one moisturizing agent. According to the invention preferred moisturizing agents are selected from deoxy sugars, particularly preferably rhamnose and fucose, polysaccharides which comprise at least one deoxy-block, particularly preferably from the commercial products Fucogel ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-1) from Solabia, Rhamnosoft ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2) from Solabia, Fucogenol ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-3) from Solabia and Glycofilm ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4) from Solabia, further mixtures of the above, at least containing a deoxy-block polysaccharides, e.g. the mixture of biosaccharides Gum-2 and biosaccharides Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia, furthermore urea, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea and betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^"). The moisturizing agents are preferably in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, and most preferably 0.1 to 1 or 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they further comprise at least one sebumregulierenden active ingredient. Sebum-regulating active substances which are preferred according to the invention are selected from azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-decanediol which are used as the triple combination according to the invention in the commercial product acnacidol PG from Vincience, furthermore from the commercial product Azeloglicina (potassium azeloyl diglycinate) from Sinerga, Extracts of Spiraea Ulmaria, as they are eg. As in the product Seboregul the company Silab are included, further water and oil soluble extracts of Hamamelis, burdock and nettles, Zimtbaumextract (z. B. Sepicontrol ^® A5 by the company SEPPIC), chrysanthemum extract (z. B. Laricyl ^® from Laboratoires Serobiologiques) and the active compound mixtures Asebiol ^® BT 2 (Laboratoires Serobiologiques, INCI: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, glycerol, panthenol, allantoin, biotin) and antiobesity factor ^® COS-218/2-A (Cosmetochem, INCI: Aqua , Cetyl-PCA, PEG-8 isolauryl thioether, PCA, cetyl alcohol). The sebum-regulating active ingredients are preferably present in a total amount of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention for the topical treatment of the skin, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrettes C) at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and d) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide, the N- acylated and / or esterified and / or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and that in the skin stimulates the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently the collagen and / or fibronectin, according to one of claims 1-11 are included characterized in that they further contain at least one conditioning agent. According to the invention, conditioning substances are to be understood as substances which are absorbed by keratinic materials, in particular on the skin, and improve the physical and sensory properties of both the skin and of the product as such. Conditioners smooth the top layer of the skin and make it soft and supple. Through the choice of conditioning agents (greasy - less greasy, fast or slow spreading, quickly or slowly absorbed into the skin and so on), the skin feel of the entire product can be adjusted.

Conditioning agents according to the invention are selected from fatty substances, in particular vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil, lanolin and its derivatives, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons , Di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, z. As di-n-octyl ether and n-hexyl n-octyl ether, fatty acids, especially linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C ₈ - ₃ o fatty acids, fatty alcohols, particularly saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 4-30 carbon atoms which may be ethoxylated with 1-75, preferably 5-20 ethylene oxide units and / or propoxylated with 3-30, preferably 9-14 propylene oxide units, ester oils, ie esters of C ₆ - ₃ o-fatty acids with C ₂ - ₃ o-fatty alcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters, dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate and diol esters such as Ethylenglycoldioleat or Propylenglycoldi (2-ethylhexanoate), symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. B. glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC), mono, - di- and tri fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, with 1 - 10, preferably 7-9 ethylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, z. B. PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, waxes, especially insect waxes, plant waxes, fruit waxes, ozokerite, microwaxes, ceresin, paraffin waxes, triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated Ci ₆ - ₃ o-fatty acids, eg. Hardened triglyceride fats, phospholipids, for example soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and silicone polymers which may, if desired, be cross-linked, e.g. B. polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkyl arylsiloxanes, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes with the earlier INCI name dimethicone copolyol, and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups, preferably substances with the INCI names Dimethiconol, Amodimethicone or Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.

The amount of fatty substances used is preferably from 0.1 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 50% by weight and most preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, based in each case on the total skin treatment agent. The cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are preferably in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water-in-oil or water in oil-in-water emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, a hydrogel, a lipogel, a mono- or multiphase solution, a foam, a powder or a mixture with at least one polymer suitable as a medical adhesive. The agents may also be presented in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm. Here, the carrier may be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the agents according to the invention, the agents are present as microemulsions. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood as meaning not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called "PIT" emulsions These emulsions are systems with the three components water, oil and emulsifier which are oil-in at room temperature When these systems are heated, microemulsions are formed in a certain temperature range (referred to as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT") which, on further heating, convert to water-in-oil emulsions. W emulsions are also present, but which are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions having a mean particle diameter of less than 400 nm and in particular of about 100 to 300 nm have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm In the preferred embodiment as emulsion e if the compositions according to the invention contain at least one surface-active substance as emulsifier or dispersant. Suitable emulsifiers are for example adducts of from 4 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, on C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and C ₈ -C ₅ alkyl phenols, C ₂ - C ₂₂ - Fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide to C ₃ -C ₆ polyols, in particular to glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products of methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of 1, 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 2.0, and glucose are preferred as the sugar component, mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, eg , For example, the commercially available product Montanov ^® 68, addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, sterols, in particular cholesterol, lanosterol, beta Sitoste- rol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol, as well as mycosterols, phospholipids, especially glucose phospholipids, fatty acid ester of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol, preferably Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH) and Polyglyceryl -3-diisostearate (Lameform ^® TGI commercial product), polymeric emulsifiers such as PEG-150- distearate or PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, as well as linear and branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The compositions according to the invention contain at least one emulsifier, preferably in a total amount of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total composition.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 and below is included. Such preferred emulsifiers are in particular compounds of the general formula R ¹ -O-R ² , in which R ^{1 is} a primary linear alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group having 20-30 C atoms, preferably a behenyl radical, and R ² Is hydrogen, a group having the formula - (C _n H _2n O) _x -H where x = 1 or 2 and n = 2 - 4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group having 4-6 C atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups, preferably hydrogen , A particularly preferred compound R ¹ -O-R ² is behenyl alcohol. Further preferred emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 and below are the adducts of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenic acid or erucic acid. Preferably, the monoesters of Ci ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with polyols such as. As pentaerythritol, trimethylol propane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methyl glucose. Examples of such products are z. B. sorbitan monobehenate or pentaerythritol monoerucate. The presence of emulsifiers of the general formula R ¹ -O-R ² can lead to lamellar structures in the emulsion, which can have particularly favorable effects on the restoration of the lamellar structure of the skin. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they are present in the form of a lamellar structures oil-in-water emulsion.

Other suitable additives are thickeners, for. Example, natural and synthetic clays and phyllosilicates such as bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite or Laponite ^® , or anionic polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, where the acidic groups in whole or in part as sodium , Potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt, and wherein at least one nonionic monomer may be contained. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. These copolymers can also be present in crosslinked form. Suitable commercial products are NS Sepigel ^® 305 Simulgel® ^® 600 ^® and Simulgel® Simulgel® ^® EC SEPPIC. Further particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ^®. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C ₃ . _6- carboxylic acid or its anhydride and to 2 - 20%, if desired, substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated Cio ₃₀ carboxylic acids, wherein the copolymer can be crosslinked with the aforementioned crosslinking agents. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^® and the Car- Bopol ^® grades 954, 980, 1342, 1382 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich). Suitable nonionic polymers include polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, for. B. the commercial products Mowiol ^® and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidones z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF) are sold.

Further preferred additives are antioxidants, preservatives, solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerin, and diethylene glycol, adsorbents and fillers such as talc and Veegum ^®, perfume oils, pigments and dyes for coloring the composition, substances for adjusting the pH Value, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ß-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids, propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, pentane, isopentane, isobutane, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic, cosmetic

Use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition for the topical treatment of the skin comprising, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, a combination of a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600 -

1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds, c) at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and d) at least one di-, tri-, Tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide, which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and in the skin, the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently the collagen and / or Fibronectinsynthese stimulates, according to one of claims 1 - 11, for the treatment of photodamaged and / or light-aged and / or intrinsically and / or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment. for increasing the skin firmness and / or for improving the mechanical stability of the skin and / or for increasing the skin elasticity and / or the skin firmness and / or for improving the skin

Skin softness and supple skin, for smoothing the skin and / or for reducing wrinkles, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or for improving the visual appearance of the skin, for protection and / or prophylaxis against extrinsic skin aging and / or for delaying the extrinsic Skin aging, to delay intrinsic skin aging, to treat age spots, to maintain normal protein metabolism of the skin, to reduce oxidative damage in the skin, and / or to improve the skin compatibility of anti-aging skin care agents, especially anti-wrinkle agents.

The skin firmness and the mechanical stability of the skin can for a z. For example, on the torsion angle, which can be measured with the Dermal Torque Meter, on the other hand via the parameter U _F (total expandability of the skin under negative pressure), which can be measured with the cutometer.

A further subject matter of the present invention is the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition for the topical treatment of the skin which comprises, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, the combination of a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the region of 600 - 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds, c) at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and d) at least one di-, tri-, Tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide, which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and in the skin, the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently the collagen and / or Fibronectinsynthese stimulates, according to one of claims 1 - 11, for the treatment of photodamaged and / or light-aged and / or intrinsically and / or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment. to increase the skin firmness and / or to improve the mechanical stability of the skin and / or to increase the skin elasticity and / or skin firmness and / or to improve the skin softness and smoothness, to smooth the skin and / or to reduce wrinkles, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or to improve the appearance of the skin, protect and / or prevent extrinsic skin aging and / or delay extrinsic skin aging, retard intrinsic skin aging, treat age spots, maintain normal protein metabolism the skin, to reduce oxidative damage in the skin and / or to improve the skin compatibility of skin treatment agents with anti-aging effect, in particular anti-wrinkle agents.

For preferred embodiments of the uses according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

Another object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic method for the non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of photodamaged and / or light-aged and / or intrinsically and / or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, to increase the skin firmness and / or to improve the mechanical Stability of the skin and / or to increase the elasticity of the skin and / or the firmness of the skin and / or to improve the softness and suppleness of the skin, for smoothing the skin and / or for reducing wrinkles, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or for improving the appearance of the skin, for protection and / or prophylaxis against extrinsic skin aging and / or for delaying extrinsic skin aging, for delay the intrinsic skin aging, for the treatment of age spots, for the maintenance of the normal protein metabolism of the skin, for the reduction of oxidative damage in the skin and / or for the improvement of the skin compatibility of skin treatment preparations with anti-aging action, in particular anti-wrinkle agents,

which is characterized in that a cosmetic or dermatological topical composition according to any one of claims 1 - 11 according to the invention is applied to the skin.

Also for preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the compositions of the invention.

The following formulation examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it thereto.

All amounts are in wt .-%, based on the total composition.

1. Skin cream (oil-in-water emulsion)

2. Skin cream (oil-in-water emulsion, lipoprotein cream)

3. Skin cream (lamellar oil-in-water emulsion)

4. Skin cream (lamellar oil-in-water emulsion)

5. Skin cream (lamellar oil-in-water emulsion)

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition for the topical treatment of the skin, comprising in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1,000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette Seed, c) at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and d) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which N-acylates and / or esterifies be present and / or as a physiologically acceptable salt and in the skin, the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently stimulates collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis.

2. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1,000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, in a total amount of 0.0001-1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 - 0.1% by weight, more preferably 0.005-0.05% by weight, and most preferably 0.006

- 0.01 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.

3. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds in a total amount of 0.0001 - 0.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 - 0.1 wt .-% , Particularly preferably 0.005 - 0.05 wt .-% and most preferably 0.01 - 0.04 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

4. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, in a total amount of 0.002 - 1, 5% by weight , preferably 0.003 - 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.004 - 0.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005

- 0.1 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 - 0.05 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition is included.

5. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1, 2, 3 or 4, characterized in that the at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, is present in supported form.

6. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5, characterized in that the peptide d) is selected from the tripeptides Gly-His-Lys and Gly-His-Arg, the tetrapeptide Gly-Gln-Pro -Arg and the pentapeptide Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and their N-acylated and / or esterified derivatives and / or physiologically acceptable salts thereof.

7. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, characterized in that the at least one peptide d) in a total amount of 0.000001 - 2% by weight, preferably 0.00001 - 0 , 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0001 - 0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.0025 - 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition is included.

8. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 7, characterized in that it comprises a) at least soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1,000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least a hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds, c) at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and d) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide, the N -acylated and / or esterified and / or may be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and in the skin, the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently stimulates collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis, in weight ratios of (1-100): (1-100): (1-100): 1.

9. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of the preceding claims, containing at least one further cosmetic active ingredient, selected from: a) monomers and oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, which are different from the components a), b) and d) according to claim 1, b) DNA repair enzymes, c) DNA or RNA oligonucleotides, d) vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C and E and the salts and / or the esters of the abovementioned substances, e) α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone and / or salt form, f) flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts, g) ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, h) silymarin, i) ectoine, j) inorganic and organic UV filter substances, k) self-tanning active substances, I) skin-calming active ingredients, m) moisturizing active ingredients, n) sebum-regulating active ingredients, o) as well as mixtures of these active ingredients a) - n).

Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 and lower of the general formula R ¹ -O-R ² , in which R ^{1 is} a primary linear alkyl, Alkenyl or acyl group having 20-30 C atoms, preferably a behenyl radical, and R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a group having the formula - (C _n H _2n O) _x -H where x = 1 or 2 and n = 2 - 4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group having 4-6 C-atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups, preferably hydrogen, is, preferably behenyl alcohol, is included.

1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a lamellar structures having oil-in-water emulsion.

12. Non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of a combination of a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds, c) at least one active ingredient from hyaluronic acid, the silanol ethers, the silanol esters and the salts of hyaluronic acid, and d) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which is N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt can and does in the skin the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently the collagen and / or Fibronectinsynthese stimulates, according to one of claims 1 - 11 for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological

Composition for the non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of photodamaged and / or light-aged and / or intrinsically and / or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, for increasing skin firmness and / or for improving the mechanical stability of the skin and / or for increasing skin elasticity and / or skin tightness and / or to improve skin softness and smoothness, to smooth the skin and / or to reduce wrinkles, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or to improve the visual appearance of the skin, for protection and / or prophylaxis before extrinsic skin aging and / or delaying extrinsic skin aging, for retarding intrinsic skin aging, for non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of age spots, for maintaining normal protein metabolism of the skin, for reducing oxidative damage in the skin and / or for improving the skin compatibility of anti-aging skin care agents, especially anti-wrinkle agents.

13. Non-therapeutic use of a combination of a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1,000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds, c) at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid d) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt, and d) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide; in the skin, the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently stimulates collagen and / or Fibronectinsynthese, according to any one of claims 1 to 11 for the non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of photodamaged and / or light-aged and / or intrinsically and / or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, for increasing skin firmness and / or to improve the mechanical stability of the skin and / or to increase the elasticity of the skin and / or the firmness of the skin and / or to improve the softness and smoothness of the skin, to smooth the skin and / or to reduce wrinkles, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or to improve the appearance of the skin, for the protection and / or prophylaxis of extrinsic skin aging and / or to delay extrinsic skin aging, to delay intrinsic skin aging, to non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of age spots, to maintain of normal protein skin, to reduce oxidative damage in the skin and / or to improve the skin compatibility of skin treatment agents with anti-aging effect, especially anti-wrinkle agents.

14. Non-therapeutic, cosmetic method for non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of photodamaged and / or light-aged and / or intrinsically and / or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, to increase the skin firmness and / or to improve the mechanical stability of the skin and / or to increase the skin elasticity and / or skin firmness and / or to improve the skin softness and smoothness, to smooth the skin and / or to reduce wrinkles, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or to improve the appearance of the skin, protect and / or prevent extrinsic skin aging and / or delay extrinsic skin aging, retard intrinsic skin aging, non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of age spots, for the maintenance of the normal protein metabolism of the skin, for the reduction of oxidative damage in the skin and / or for the improvement of the skin compatibility of skin treatment compositions with anti-aging effect, in particular anti-wrinkle agents, characterized in that a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of Claims 1 to 11, comprising a combination of a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, b) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds, c) at least one active ingredient selected from hyaluronic acid d) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt, and d) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide; which in the skin stimulates the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis is applied to the skin.