EP1812121A1 - Compositions cosmetiques et dermatologiques pour le traitement des peaux matures - Google Patents

Compositions cosmetiques et dermatologiques pour le traitement des peaux matures

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Publication number
EP1812121A1
EP1812121A1 EP05811235A EP05811235A EP1812121A1 EP 1812121 A1 EP1812121 A1 EP 1812121A1 EP 05811235 A EP05811235 A EP 05811235A EP 05811235 A EP05811235 A EP 05811235A EP 1812121 A1 EP1812121 A1 EP 1812121A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
lys
cosmetic
acid
physiologically acceptable
acylated
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP05811235A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Thomas Döring
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP1812121A1 publication Critical patent/EP1812121A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4953—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom containing pyrimidine ring derivatives, e.g. minoxidil
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A61K8/355—Quinones
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/606—Nucleosides; Nucleotides; Nucleic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/99—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from microorganisms other than algae or fungi, e.g. protozoa or bacteria
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the invention relates to topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for treating mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, which contain in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a combination of at least two selected peptides which are present at different locations in the process of collagen and / or or fibronectin synthesis.
  • a significant consequence of skin aging is the loss of collagen. This is based, on the one hand, on reduced collagen synthesis and, on the other hand, on increased collagen degradation. There is a great deal of interest in effective cosmetic products that are able to sustainably balance the age-related loss of collagen, thereby improving the appearance of aging skin.
  • the synthesis of collagen and fibronectin in dermal fibroblasts can as TGF-ß ⁇ 'SSUE growth facto ⁇ be induced by growth factors.
  • Specific chemoattractant peptides are capable of recruiting cells of the immune system, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then induce repair processes in the tissue via the release of growth factors, for example collagen synthesis.
  • Such peptides are described in the context of the present invention as type a peptides.
  • Type a peptides examples include Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser (INCI name: Pentapeptide-3) or Gly-His-Lys (INCI name: Tripeptide-1), which differ from the ⁇ 1-pro Derive collagen or from the ⁇ 2-chain of collagen I.
  • TGF-ß is predominantly present in an inactive form bound to TSP-1 (thrombospondin I).
  • Certain tripeptides are able to bind to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys in TSP-1 and thus release active TGF-ß.
  • Such peptides are referred to in the context of the present invention as type b peptides.
  • type b peptides suitable according to the invention are the sequences Lys-Val-Lys (INCI name: on the priority day tripeptides-3, currently (at the time of the Application: Tripeptide-5 with reference to the "technical name: Tripeptide-3"), Lys-Ile-Lys, and Lys-Phe-Lys.
  • peptides especially hexapeptides, which are also capable of stimulating collagen synthesis, but the mechanism by which this stimulation occurs is still unclear.
  • Such peptides are referred to in the context of the present invention as type c peptides.
  • the hexapeptide having the sequence Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly which is derived from human elastin represents, for example, a type c peptide in the sense of the present invention.
  • Topical compositions containing peptides that stimulate collagen synthesis are known in the art. Such compositions show some anti-wrinkle performance but as a result are not yet satisfactory.
  • Fibronectin is a family of extracellular matrix glycoproteins. Fibronectin forms a network in the dermis and is necessary for maintaining dermal architecture and integrity. The protein level of fibronectin in the skin decreases with age (Bouissouh H., Pieraggi M., Julian M. Pathol, Res. Pract. 178, 515-517, 1988). Fibronectin synthesis is induced by TGF-ß. Active ingredients which are able to increase the amount of TGF- ⁇ , however, do not achieve a sufficient effect on the fibronectin synthesis since TGF- ⁇ is present in an inactive form within the cells.
  • Topical skin care products with proven anti-wrinkle performance e.g. Tretinoin or ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid
  • Other agents with proven anti-wrinkle performance are unstable, e.g. against chemical degradation, e.g. Tretinoin or flavonoids.
  • Phytoflavones which likewise have an anti-wrinkle performance, can have a hormonal effect and are therefore less preferred for cosmetics.
  • An object of the present invention was to provide topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the treatment of mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, with an optimized activity.
  • a further object of the present invention was to prepare topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the treatment of mature or intrinsic or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, with an optimized compatibility.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the topical treatment of the skin, which are in a suitable cosmeti ⁇ or dermatological carrier a) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide, the N-acylated and / or be esterified and / or can be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and that in the skin, the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently the collagen and / or Fibronectinsynthese stimulates and b) at least one tripeptide which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and by binding to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys Thrombospondin I the growth factor TGF-ß and thus the Colla ⁇ gene and / or fibronectin synthesis activated.
  • a suitable cosmeti ⁇ or dermatological carrier a) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or
  • compositions for topical treatment of the skin in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide, the N-acylated and or esterified and / or can be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and which stimulates the release of growth factors such as TGF- ⁇ in the skin and subsequently collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis, b) at least one tripeptide, which may be acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and which activates the growth factor TGF- ⁇ and thus the collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis by binding to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys of thrombospondin I, and in addition to the components a) and b) c) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which is N-acylated and
  • At least one peptide of the type a, b or c is N-acylated and / or esterified with a, preferably linear, C 8 -C 22 -fatty acid to improve the penetration into the skin and is optionally physiologically tolerable Salt in front.
  • the fatty acid is particularly preferably saturated, but in another preferred embodiment may also be mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated.
  • N-acylation and / or esterification are C 12 -C 18 -fatty acids, in particular lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and elaidic acid ((E) -9-octadecenoic acid); very particularly preferred is palmitic acid (C 16 ). It is furthermore particularly preferred that all peptides of the type a, b and c used are N-acylated and / or esterified in this way. Also preferred is the substitution of at least one of the peptides of the type a, b or c with a benzyloxycarbonyl group at the terminal amino group.
  • An inventively preferred peptide of type a is the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" by the company GfN or in N-acylierter ter form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL of Sederma is available, moreover (in acylated Former) is also a component of the product Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma
  • the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys whose INCI name at the time of filing according to CTFA-online.org is tripeptide-1, can also be used as a copper salt (Cu 2+ )
  • analogues of Gly-His-Lys can be used, with a maximum of two amino acids being substituted by suitable other amino acids.For the substitution of glycine, alanine, leucine and isoleucine are suitable according to the invention According to the invention, preferred amino acids which can replace histidine or
  • lysine is replaced by arginine, ornithine or citrulline.
  • a further preferred type a peptide according to the invention is accordingly Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: tripeptide-3 at the time of priority, tripeptide-4 at the time of application) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg , the Z.
  • Therapeutic Peptide Inc. under the trade name Collasyn 314-GR.
  • Further peptides of the type a) preferred according to the invention are selected from the group comprising the tetrapeptide rigine, rigine-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides.
  • Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg.
  • Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the inventively particularly preferred N-palmitoyl Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, the z. B. is available under the name Eyeliss of Sederma, but also forms part of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma.
  • the Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are umarran ⁇ giert and / or in which compared to Rigin a maximum of two amino acids are substituted, z.
  • the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg Preferably, at least one of the amino acids of the sequence contains a Pro or Arg.
  • the tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary.
  • the substituting amino acids can be selected from any amino acid defined below.
  • Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapetides comprise: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, wherein Xaa, Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids which can substitute Gly, Xbb is selected from GIn and the amino acids which can substitute GIn, Xcc is selected from Pro or Arg and the amino acids that can substitute Pro and Arg.
  • the preferred amino acids that can replace GIy include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. ⁇ -Ala, Ala, VaI 1 Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (He).
  • the preferred amino acids that can replace GIn include a side chain having an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), eg, Asn, Lys, Om, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline, and canavanine.
  • the preferred amino acids which can replace Arg include a side chain having a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Pro, Lys, His, desmosine and lsodesmosin.
  • Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred as Rigin analogues.
  • ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. ⁇ -Ala, Ala, VaI, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (He). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides contain at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group which is predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), for example GIn, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and Cana. vanin. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g.
  • ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups.
  • Further preferred peptides of the type a according to the invention are the pentapeptide Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated and / or esterified derivatives and / or their physiologically tolerated salts, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys Ser, available under the name Matrixyl from Sederma.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which is N-acylated and / or esterified and / or can be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and in the skin the release of growth factors such as TGF- ⁇ and subsequently stimulates collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis (type a), in a total amount of 0.000001-2.5% by weight, preferably 0.00001-0.5-1% by weight , Particularly preferably 0.0001 - 0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.0025 - 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the Automatzusammen ⁇ tion included.
  • a particularly preferred type b peptide is palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. As available from Pentapharm under the name SYN ® -COLL According CTFA-online.org is the INCI name of SYN ® -COLL at the time of this application, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, but is called "technical name" palmitoyl tripeptide-3 specified.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one tripeptide which can be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or as a physiologically acceptable salt and which binds to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys of thrombospondin I Growth factor TGF-ß and thus the collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis activated (type b), in a total amount of 0.000001 - 2 - 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001 - 0.5 - 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 0.1% by weight and, most preferably, 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, in each case based on the content of active substance in the overall composition.
  • Peptides of the type c which are preferred according to the invention are selected from the hexapeptide Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, the N-acylated and / or esterified derivatives and / or the physiologically tolerable salts thereof, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, which is available under the name Biopeptide EL from Sederma.
  • peptides of the type c which are preferred according to the invention are the hexapep tides and / or their N-acylated derivatives Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, for example peptides 02 from Vincience), the hexapeptide derivative , which is available under the trade name Argireline from Lipotec and on the priority date of this application according to CTFA-online.org the INCI name "acetyl-hexapeptide-3" wore, while the filing date of this application, the INCI name "acetyl-hexapeptide-8 "and” acetyl-hexapeptide-3 "is given as” technical name ", hexapeptide-4 (containing lysine, threonine and serine building blocks, eg Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.
  • TPI myristoyl Hexapeptide
  • myristoyl Hexapeptide-4 eg Lipopeptide M 230 from TPI
  • hexapeptide-5 containing glutamic acid, isoleucine, proline, tyrosine and valine building blocks, eg Collasyn 6VY from TPI
  • myristoyl hexapeptides -5 eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI
  • TPI's Collasyn 6KS a hexapeptide derivative with the building blocks lysine, serine and threonine, which is available under the tradename Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI and whose INCI name on the priority date was myristoyl hexapeptide-8, at the filing date Myristoyl hexapeptide-13, hexa-peptide-9 (eg, Collaxyl from Vincience), and hexapeptide-10 (eg, Seriseline from Lipotec).
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which is N-acylated and / or esterified and / or can be present as a physiologically acceptable salt and the collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblasts is stimulated by a different mechanism than the peptide a) or b) (type c), in a total amount of 0.000001-2.5% by weight, preferably 0.00001-0.5 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.001 - 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition included.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide, which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and that in the skin stimulates the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and the tripeptide, which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and by binding to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys of thrombospondin I the growth factor TGF
  • At least one further cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from monomers, oligomers without stimulating effect on collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis and polymers of Amino acids, NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances.
  • Monomers of the amino acids and / or of the NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids and / or esters thereof which are preferred according to the invention are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, desmosine, glutamine, Glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoy
  • the C 2 -C 24 -acyl radical with which the abovementioned amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is preferably selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, Nonanoyl, decanoyl, undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radicals.
  • Mixtures of C 8 -C 8 -acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents.
  • the amino acids which carry an OH group can also be esterified at this OH group.
  • a preferred example of this according to the invention is hydroxyproline, which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C 1 -C 4 -fatty acid residues, more preferably dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, which is e.g. B. Sepilift DPHP available from the company Seppic.
  • physiologically tolerated salts of the inventively preferred peptide or amino acid active substances containing acid groups and can form salts are preferably selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, Alu ⁇ minium, zinc and manganese salts , Particularly preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.
  • Oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids which are preferred according to the invention consist of 2 to 19 amino acid units.
  • the oligomers of the amino acids, NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids, their esters and their physiologically acceptable salts without particularly stimulating effect on collagen gene and / or fibronectin synthesis are selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, Penta, hexa or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt.
  • N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val-Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn -Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-.beta.-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester (eg, calmosensins from Sederma), carnosine (.beta.-Ala-His), and N-palmitoyl-Pro Arg.
  • acetyl-citrullyl-arginine eg Exsy-algins of exsymol
  • Tyr-Arg dipeptide-1
  • Val-Trp dipeptide-2
  • Asn -Phe Asp-Phe
  • N-palmitoyl-.beta.-Ala-His N
  • N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Lys-Pro-VaI, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (tripeptides-2), an under the trade name ATPeptide receives lices and tripeptide to be obtained via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH 2 .
  • N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met VaI-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, which are particularly preferred according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides.
  • Leu, Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-Benzyl-oxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu are serine proteinase inhibitors for the inhibition of desquamation).
  • N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides are Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (eg modulenes from Vincience), a hexapeptide Derivative which is available under the trade name SNAP-7 from Centerchem and whose INCI name on the priority date was "acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1" according to CTFA-online.org, while at the time of this application the INCI name was given on the priority date according to CTFA -online.org "acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-6" rings and “acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1" is indicated as so-called “technical name”, furthermore hexapeptide-2 (eg melanostatine-DM from Vincience), Val-Val Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, Ala-Arg-Hi
  • An inventively particularly preferred pentadecapeptide is z.
  • the raw material Vinci 01 from Vincience Pentadeca- peptide-1).
  • Another inventively particularly preferred optional amino acid oligomer without influence on collagen and / or Fibronectinsynthese is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (eg, available under the trade name "Glistin" of exsymol).
  • Preferred polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids according to the invention consist of 20 to 100 amino acid units.
  • particularly preferred polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids are selected from plant and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are z. Elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of esters and / or salts.
  • Vegetable protein hydrolysates eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B.
  • DiaMin® ® Diamalt
  • Gluadin ® Cognis
  • Lexein ® Inolex
  • Crotein ® Crotein ®
  • soy protein hydrolysates e.g., the commercial products phytokines from Coletica or Ridulisse C from Silab.
  • protein hydrolysates may also contain monomeric amino acids and oligopeptides; Their composition is usually not defined.
  • Preference according to the invention is the use of acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Lamepon ® (Cognis), Gluadin ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® ® or Crotein (Croda).
  • cationic protein hydrolysates are also preferred according to the invention. Particular preference is given to cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of from 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably from 250 to 5,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized.
  • inventively used cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are some of th under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Stear Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silica, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl SiCl Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.
  • the polymers of the amino acids are selected from DNA repair enzymes.
  • DNA repair enzymes are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter abbreviated to "T4N5" below. These two enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes. DNA repair is defined as the cleavage or removal of UV-induced pyrimidine dimers from the DNA.
  • Photolyase is the abbreviation for deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3.
  • a particularly effi ⁇ tient photolyase comes from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine microorganism.
  • the photolyase from A. nidulans is now obtained in technically relevant quantities from E. coli.
  • Photolyase relies on light for activation.
  • the enzyme T4 endonuclease V is produced by the ⁇ fenV gene of the bacteriophage T4 and belongs to the phosphodiesterases, which hydrolytically cleave the nucleic acids at the (5 * -3 x ) bond.
  • T4N5 is also active without the influence of light.
  • Liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes are commercially available for. B. under the Pro ⁇ duktberace Photosome TM, liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. B. under the name Ultrasome TM from AGI Dermatics, USA, available.
  • compositions according to the invention contain Photosome TM and / or Ultrasome TM in total amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight and more preferably 1.0-0.4% by weight. %, based on the total Zusam ⁇ composition.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the monomers, oligomers without stimulating action on collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis or polymers of amino acids, NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids and / or C 2 -C 24 amino acid esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances in a total amount of 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 3 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition, included.
  • the monomers, oligomers have no stimulating effect on the collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis and / or polymers of amino acids, NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids, their esters and / or the physiologically tolerated salts of these substances in supported form applied before, insbeson ular finely divided, powdered substrates such as silica gel, especially Aerosil ® grades, talc, microsponges, modified starches and starch derivatives, kris ⁇ Talliner cellulose, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin, polymer particles of nylon, polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, (Meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, which may be crosslinked, polyesters, polyamides, polyisocyanates styrenes, Teflon and / or silicones.
  • a particularly preferred raw material of this type are the Vegetal Filling Spheres,
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of type a and b and optionally c, at least one DNA oligonucleotide or one RNA oligonucleotide.
  • an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges.
  • the nucleotides be ⁇ from nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in ß-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid.
  • the mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine 5'-triphosphate).
  • CMP cytidine 5'-monophosphate
  • UDP uridine 5'-diphosphate
  • ATP adenosine 5'-triphosphate
  • GTP guanosine 5'-triphosphate
  • An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one DNA oligonucleotide and / or RNA oligonucleotide in a total amount of 0.00001-1.5% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1-0, 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.0005 - 0.01 wt .-%, based on the total composition tion.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one natural betaine compound.
  • Natural betaine compounds used according to the invention are naturally occurring compounds having the atomic grouping R 3 N + -CH 2 -X-COO " according to IUPAC rule C-816.1 So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor are they other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge are formally O, S, B or C, but which do not conform to IUPAC Rule C-816.1
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt. -%, in each case based on the total composition included.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances.
  • the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A 1 ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate, into consideration.
  • the compositions according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in a total amount of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others
  • Vitamin B 1 Vitamin B 1, thiamine trivial name, chemical designation 3 - [(4 '-amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl) methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride.
  • Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in total amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide are performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • pantothenic acid and panthenol Panthenol is preferably used.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • pantothenic acid or panthenol instead of as well as in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol also derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (I) can be used.
  • the substituents R 1 to R 6 independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or one or two ⁇ unsaturated, linear or branched C 2 -C 4 - hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C 2 -C 4 - hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or di- 2 unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino-C 2 -C 4 - hydrocarbon radical.
  • Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) - furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl- ⁇ -butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy- ⁇ -butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), all stereoisomers being expressly included.
  • the extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative according to the invention is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), where in formula (I) R 1 is a hydroxyl group, R 2 is a hydrogen atom, R 3 and R 4 represent a methyl group and R 5 and R 6 represent a hydrogen atom.
  • the stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type and the 2-furanone derivatives are in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.
  • Vitamin B 6 which is understood hereunder not a uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols.
  • Vitamin B 6 is in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%, included.
  • Biotin also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin”.
  • Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-c (] -imidazole-4-valeric acid.
  • Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%, included.
  • Vitamin C is preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total composition.
  • the use of the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl glucoside may be preferred according to the invention .
  • the use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred according to the invention.
  • the vitamin E group includes tocopherol, in particular ⁇ -tocopherol, and its derivatives Deri.
  • Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives are preferably present in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B 7 (see above).
  • the fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group which are based on the basic structure of 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, include phylloquinone (vitamin K 1 ), farno- quinone or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K 3 ).
  • Vitamin K is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one vitamin, provitamin or a vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and their esters from the group comprising vitamin A palmitate (retinyl palmitate), panthenol , Pantolactone, nicotinic acid amide, pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, ascorbyl palmitate, acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate and the tocopherol esters, especially tocopheryl acetate.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid, ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acid or ⁇ -hydroxycarboholic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form.
  • Preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids or ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-octadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gularic acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, Glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid.
  • Particularly preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid.
  • a particularly preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid.
  • Preferred esters of the acids according to the invention are selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid, ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acid or ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid or at least one derivative thereof in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5 - 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 - 2 wt .-%, each based on the total Zusam ⁇ composition containing.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract.
  • the flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the flavanones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), the aurones and the isoflavones.
  • flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), ⁇ -glucosylrutin, ⁇ -glucosylmyricetin, ⁇ -glucosylisoquercetin, ⁇ -glucosyl-cerecetin, hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4' -methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside, hesperetin-7-o-rhamnoglucoside), neohesperidin, rutin (3,3 ⁇ 4,7,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3,5 dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxy- ethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-aL-mannopyranosyl) - ⁇ -D-glucopy
  • flavonoids are constructed from two flavonoid biflavonoids, z. B. occur in gingko species.
  • Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one flavonoid in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the flavonoid active substance in the entire cosmetic composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract.
  • the isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted here at the isoflavoneides.
  • isoflavones are to be understood as meaning substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, hydrogenation of which may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation under Formation of a carbonyl group in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand.
  • the isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin.
  • isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.
  • the isoflavones are glycosidically linked to at least one sugar via at least one hydroxy group.
  • Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose.
  • Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.
  • the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a vegetable extract.
  • a vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained, for example, by pressing or extracting from plants such as soy, in particular from the soybean seeds, red clover or chickpeas, in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art.
  • Particular preference is given to using isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of soya-derived extracts in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St.
  • apple seed extract contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.
  • compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 1 wt.%, Preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt. , in each case based on the Isoflavonoiditsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one polyphenol or a polyphenol-rich plant extract.
  • polyphenols are aromatic compounds which contain at least two phenolic hydroxyl groups in the molecule. These include ⁇ he three dihydroxybenzenes catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, furthermore phloroglucin, pyrogallol and hexahydroxybenzene.
  • free and etherified polyphenols occur, for example, in floral dyes (anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acyl polyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives , Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechols, usnic acid, and tannins are the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and digalloylgallic acid.
  • Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechols, that is, the derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, that is, the derivatives of leucoanthocyanidins which preferably carry phenolic hydroxyl groups in the 5,7,3 ', 4', 5-position Epicatechin and epigallocatechin, as well as those from it Self-condensation tannins.
  • Such tannins are preferably not used in isolated pure substance but as extracts of tannin-rich plant parts, eg. Extracts of catechu, quebracho, oak bark and pine bark, as well as other tree bark, leaves of green tea (camellia sinensis) and mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins.
  • a particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Sepivinol R, an extract of red wine, available from Seppic.
  • Another particularly preferred polyphenol rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Crodarom Chardonnay, an extract from the cores of the Chardonnay grape, available from Croda.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one polyphenol in a total amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.01 to 3% by weight, in each case on the entire cosmetic composition, included.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one ubiquinone or one ubiquinol or a derivative thereof.
  • Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones.
  • Ubiquinones preferred according to the invention have the formula (II):
  • ubiquinone of formula (II) with n 10, also known as coenzyme Q10.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one ubiquinone, ubiquinol or a derivative thereof in one Total amount of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition tion included.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, silymarin.
  • silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was previously regarded as a uniform substance.
  • the main constituents of silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydinin, which belong to the group of Flavanolignans belong.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain silymarin in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, ectoine.
  • Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain ectoine in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance.
  • the UV filter substances are liquids which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again.
  • the UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.
  • the organic UV filters used according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, Benzimidazolen, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1, 3,5-triazines, mono ⁇ meren and oligomeric 4,4-Diarylbutadiencarbonklareestern and. -carboxamides, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzalmalonklaestern, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the said components.
  • the organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • the benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives are present in a pigmentary, ie undissolved form, for example in particle sizes of 10 nm to 300 nm.
  • oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphe- nyl) propane-1, 3-dione (Parsol ® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4 * -methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester Ethyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene), salicylic acid-2 e
  • Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1, 4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium , Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- and Glucammoniumsal ⁇ e, in particular the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No.
  • Neo Heliopan AP sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, such as.
  • UV-A filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters.
  • compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate.
  • the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2: 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio being between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.
  • the inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape.
  • the pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized.
  • Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ® T2000 (Merck).
  • Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
  • the organic UV filter substances in amounts of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1.0 to 15 wt .-% and extraordinarily preferably 3.0 - 10 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, contain.
  • the inorganic UV filter substances are present in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, more preferably 1-10-0% by weight and exceptionally preferably 2, 0 - 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, tion.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one self-tanning agent.
  • Self-tanning active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose and 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one self-tanning active ingredient in a total amount of 0.01-15% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0-5% by weight. -%, and most preferably 2.0 - 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one skin-lightening active ingredient.
  • preferred skin lightening agents are selected from ascorbic acid, the esters of ascorbic acid with phosphoric acid and / or organic C 2 -C 2 o-carboxylic acids and their alkali and Erdalkalimetallsal ⁇ zen, thereof kojic acid, hydroquinone, arbutin, mulberry extract, and licorice extract and mixtures thereof. Both as a single substance and as a mixture, the ascorbic acid derivatives and kojic acid are preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one skin-lightening active ingredient in a total amount of from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition ,
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one skin-soothing active ingredient.
  • Skin-calming active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from allantoin, ⁇ -bisabolol and ⁇ -lipoic acid, extracts from Centella asiatica, for example obtainable under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, glycyrrethic acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z.
  • Alginhydrolysaten as are available, for example, under the trade name Phycosaccharide, in particular phycosaccharides AI, from the company Codif, extracts from Bacopa Monniera, as for example under the trade name Bacocalmine extracts from the Rooibos plant, such as those obtainable, for example, under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE from Cosmetochem, yeast extracts, particularly preferably the commercial product Drieline (INCI name "sorbitol, Yeast Extract”).
  • Phycosaccharide in particular phycosaccharides AI
  • Bacopa Monniera as for example under the trade name Bacocalmine extracts from the Rooibos plant, such as those obtainable, for example, under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE from Cosmetochem, yeast extracts, particularly preferably the commercial product Drieline (INCI name "sorbitol, Yeast Extract").
  • phytocohesins ICI: Sodium Be ta-sitosteryl sulfates
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one skin-soothing active ingredient in a total amount of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight and most preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight. %, in each case based on the total composition, ent.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one moisturizing active ingredient.
  • preferred fuchttechniksspenden- de active ingredients are selected from deoxy sugars, particularly preferably rhamnose and fucose, polysaccharides, which contain at least one deoxysugar block be ⁇ Sonders preferably made of the commercial products Fucogel ® (INCI name Biosaccha- ride Gum-1) from Solabia, Rhamnosoft ® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2) from Solabia, Fucogenol ® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-3) from Solabia and glyco- film ® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4) from Solabia, further mixtures of the above, at least a deoxy sugar component-containing polysaccharides, such as the mixture of Biosaccharide Gum-2 and Biosaccharide Gum-3, er ⁇ bib
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one moisturizing active ingredient in a total amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight and exceptionally preferably from 0.1 to 1 or 2 wt .-%, each based on the total Zusam ⁇ composition containing.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one sebum-regulating active substance.
  • Sebum-regulating active substances which are preferred according to the invention are selected from azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-oecanediol, which are used according to the invention as the particularly preferred triple combination in the commercial product acnacidol PG from Vincience, furthermore from the commercial product azeloglicina (potassium azeloyl diglycinate) Sinerga, Extracts of Spiraea Ulmaria, as they are eg. B.
  • Silab contained in the product Seboregul the company to continue (as Sepicontrol A5 ® z. By Seppic) water and oil soluble extracts of Hamamelis, burdock and nettles, Zimtbaumextract, Chrysanthe ⁇ menex Exercise (z. B.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient in a total amount of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight. -%, in each case based on the total composition included.
  • Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic kosme ⁇ tables use of a) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide, the N-acylated and / or esterified and / or physiologically acceptable Salt may be present and which stimulates in the skin the release of growth factors such as TGF- ⁇ and subsequently collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis, and b) at least a tripeptide which may be acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and which binds to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys of thrombospondin I the growth factor TGF-.beta. and thus the collagen and / or Activated fibronectin, in a cosmetic or dermatological carrier intended for topical application
  • Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic kosme ⁇ tables use of a) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide, the N-acylated and / or esterified and / or physiologically acceptable Salt may be present and that in the skin the release of growth factors such as TGF-ß and subsequently stimulates collagen and / or Fibronectinsynthese, and b) at least one tripeptide which may be acylated and / or esterified and / or present as a physiologically acceptable salt and by binding to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys of Thrombospondins I the growth factor TGF-ß and thus activates the collagen and / or fibronectin synthesis, and in addition to the components a) and b) c) at least one di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptide which N-acylated and / or may be esterified and / or
  • the cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water-in-oil or water in-oil-in-water emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, a hydrogel, a lipogel, a mono- or multiphase solution, a foam, a powder or a mixture with at least one polymer suitable as a medical adhesive.
  • compositions may also be presented in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm, in which case the carrier may be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils
  • the agents are present as microemulsions
  • microemulsions are understood as meaning not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called "PIT" emulsions
  • PIT so-called "PIT" emulsions
  • microemulsions When these systems are heated, microemulsions are formed in a certain temperature range (referred to as phase inversion temperature or "PIT"), which on further heating in water-in-oil emulsions On cooling, O / W emulsions are again formed, but they are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions having a mean particle diameter of less than 400 nm and in particular of about 100 to 300 nm. According to the invention, those micro- or "PIT" emulsions may be preferred which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm.
  • the compositions according to the invention contain at least one surface-active substance as emulsifier or dispersant.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, adducts of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear C 8 -C 22 -FeWaIkOhOIe, C 12 -C 22 -FeWSaUrCn and C 8 -C 15 alkylphenols, Ci 2 - C 22 -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto C 3 -C 6 -polyols, in particular onto glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products on methylglucoside-fatty acid esters, "FeWklarealkanolamide and fatty acid glucamides, C 8 - C 22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component being preferred, mixtures
  • the commercially available product Montanov ® 68 addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated Sterols, in particular cholesterol, lanosterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol, and also mycosterols, phospholipids, especially glucose phospholipids, fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives, preferably polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydro - xystearat (Dehymuls ® PGPH commercial product) and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Lameform ® TGI glasses ⁇ product) as well as linear and branched C 8 -C 30 fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn - salts.
  • Montanov ® 68 addition products of
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 and below is included.
  • emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 and below are the adducts of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenic acid or erucic acid.
  • the monoesters of C 16 -C 3 o fatty acids with polyols such.
  • pentaerythritol trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methyl glucose. Examples of such products are z.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the peptides of the type a and b and optionally c, at least one conditioning agent.
  • conditioning substances are understood to mean substances which are absorbed by keratinic materials, in particular on the skin, and improve the physical and sensory properties. Conditioners smooth the top layer of the skin and make it soft and supple.
  • Conditioning agents which are preferred according to the invention are selected from fatty substances, in particular vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil, lanolin and its derivatives, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, z.
  • vegetable oils such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil, lanolin and its derivatives
  • liquid paraffin oils isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons
  • di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, z.
  • di-n-octyl ether and n-hexyl-n-octyl ether fatty acids, especially
  • o-fatty alcohol alkyl hydroxycarboxylates dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol diol or propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), symmetri ⁇ rule, unsymmetric or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg.
  • glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl As glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl (Cetiol ® CC), mono, - di- and Trifettkla- esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, which are ethoxylated with 1-10, preferably 7-9 ethylene oxide units kön ⁇ nen, z.
  • hardened th triglyceride fats for example, soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and kephalin, silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxan and silicone polymers, which may be crosslinked if desired, for. B.
  • polydialkylsiloxanes polyalkylaryl siloxanes, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes having the earlier INCI name dimethicone copolyol, as well as polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups, preferably substances with the INCI names dimethiconol, Amodimethicone or trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
  • the amount used of the fatty substances is 0.1-50% by weight, preferably 0.1-20% by weight and more preferably 0.1-15% by weight, in each case based on the total skin treatment agent.
  • thickeners for.
  • B. natural and synthetic clays and phyllosilicates such as bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite or Laponite ® , or anionic polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the acidic groups wholly or partly as sodium , Potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt, and wherein at least one nonionic monomer may be contained.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylates, methacrylates, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. These copolymers may also be present in crosslinked form. Suitable commercial products are Sepigel ® 305 Simulgel® ® 600, Simulgel® ® NS and Simulgel® ® EC SEPPIC. Further particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ®.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C 3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydride and 2-20% of optionally substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated C 10-30 carboxylic acids, the copolymer having the The above-mentioned crosslinking agents can be crosslinked.
  • Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ® and Carbopol ® - types 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).
  • Suitable nonionic polymers include polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, for. B. the commercial products Mowiol ® and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidones, z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF) ver ⁇ be driven.
  • antioxidants are antioxidants, preservatives, solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, adsorbents and fillers such as talc and Veegum ®, perfume oils, pigments and dyes for coloring the composition, substances position suitability for adjusting the pH, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ⁇ -alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, pentane, isopentane, isobutane, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air.
  • solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol
  • adsorbents and fillers such as talc and Veegum ®
  • perfume oils pigments and dyes for coloring the composition
  • the skin model tissue cultures were treated with the following formulations:
  • Figures A-F show fluorescence images of the dermis prepared and printed under identical conditions.
  • Figures A, C and E are from tissue culture 1
  • Figures B, D and F are from tissue culture 2.
  • the epidermis shows no staining and is therefore not visible on the images.
  • the brightly colored areas represent fibronectin.
  • Oil-in-water emulsions 1. Skin creams
  • compositions for soaking wipes are examples of compositions for soaking wipes.
  • Example 1 illustrates a soak composition for a lotion and make-up stripper cloth.
  • Example 2 illustrates a soak composition for a self-tanner cloth.
  • Example 3 illustrates a soak composition for a sunscreen cloth.
  • Example 4 illustrates a soak composition for a facial cleansing wipe.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques topiques pour le traitement de peaux matures ou de peaux intrinsèquement ou extrinsèquement âgées, notamment pour le traitement antirides. Ces compositions contiennent, dans un excipient cosmétique ou dermatologique approprié, une combinaison d'au moins deux peptides sélectionnés qui agissent en différents points du processus de synthèse du collagène et/ou de la fibronectine.
EP05811235A 2004-11-17 2005-11-11 Compositions cosmetiques et dermatologiques pour le traitement des peaux matures Withdrawn EP1812121A1 (fr)

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DE102004055541A DE102004055541A1 (de) 2004-11-17 2004-11-17 Kosmetische und dermatologische Zusammensetzungen zur Behandlung reifer Haut
PCT/EP2005/012135 WO2006053688A1 (fr) 2004-11-17 2005-11-11 Compositions cosmetiques et dermatologiques pour le traitement des peaux matures

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