WO2010049457A2 - Active ingredient combination for the treatment of mature skin i - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the treatment of mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged skin, especially for anti-wrinkle treatment, containing in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a combination of at least one soy protein hydrolysate with an average molecular weight in the range of 1200 to 1800 Daltons, at least one soy protein hydrolysate with an average molecular weight in the range of 600 to 1000 Daltons, at least one wheat protein hydrolysate and at least one hydrophilic ambrette seed extract.

Description

 Active ingredient combination for the treatment of mature skin I

The invention relates to topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for treating mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged or photodamaged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, a drug combination of at least two Soyaproteinhydrolysaten with different average molecular weight distributions, at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate and at least one hydrophilic Extract of Ambrette seeds included.

A significant consequence of skin aging is the loss of collagen. This is based on the one hand on a reduced collagen synthesis in certain skin cells, the fibroblasts, on the other hand on an increased collagen degradation, in particular by certain enzymes, such as the so-called matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). In particular, UV-induced expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 results in collagen-1 degradation accounting for approximately 85% of the total protein content in the extracellular matrix. In addition to the elements of the cytoskeleton and the gap junction proteins, other proteins provide the skin tissue with mechanical stability. These proteins mediate cell-extracellular matrix (ECM) binding. Part of the ECM is z. As the collagen or hyaluronic acid. The binding of cells to ECM proteins is mediated by receptors located on the cell surface. Thus, e.g. the surface receptor CD44, whose expression is increased, for example, by apple seed extracts, to hyaluronic acid.

Recent studies have confirmed that collagen degradation interferes with the inte- grin-mediated interplay between collagen matrix and fibroblasts. It has been shown that on a previously damaged, contracted and low tension collagen matrix the further collagen synthesis is limited. The loss of mechanical tension appears to be causally involved in the decreased synthesis of new collagen (J.Varani et al., Reduced Fibroblast Interaction with Intact Collagen as a Mechanism for Depressed Collagen Synthesis in Photodamaged Skin, J Invest Dermatol , 1471-1479, 2004). There is a great deal of interest in effective cosmetic products that are able to sustainably balance the age-related loss of collagen, thereby improving the appearance of aging skin. Cosmetic anti-aging products therefore often contain active ingredients that are able to stimulate collagen synthesis.

Topical compositions containing peptides that stimulate collagen synthesis are known in the art. Such compositions show some anti-wrinkle performance but as a result are not yet satisfactory. Topical skin care products with following proven anti-wrinkle performance z. As contain tretinoin or α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, are often due to the necessary higher concentrations of these drugs only moderately or even poorly tolerated by the skin. Other agents with proven anti-wrinkle performance are unstable, for example, to chemical degradation, eg. Tretinoin or flavonoids. Phytoflavones, which also have an anti-wrinkle performance, can be hormonal and are therefore less preferred for cosmetics.

In contrast, the prior art lacks effective preparations which are able to repair existing aging-related deficits, in particular in the area of the extracellular matrix.

It was an object of the present invention to provide topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for treating mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, with an activity optimized over the prior art. Another object was to provide topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the treatment of photodamaged or mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, with an optimized skin compatibility.

Surprisingly and unforeseeably for the skilled worker, it has now been found that with compositions for the topical treatment of the skin, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range from 1400 to 1700 Dalton, at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate and at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds, which obviates the disadvantages of the prior art, and compositions for treatment mature or intrinsic or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, which synergistically enhances and improves their effects on wrinkle smoothing and skin appearance improvement over prior art compositions become T. At the same time it has been found that with compositions containing, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range 1400-1700 daltons, at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate and at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds, an effective anti-wrinkle treatment with improved skin tolerance can be made.

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the topical treatment of the skin, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400 to 1700 daltons. at least one Soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate and d) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds.

An inventively particularly preferred soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400 to 1700 daltons (Da), is available under the trade name Ridulisse C from Silab. The protein hydrolyzate content in Ridulisse C contains four molecular weight fractions: 0.8% by weight with a Mw> 12,500 Da, 22.2% by weight with 1355 Da <Mw <12,500 Da, 43.1% by weight 75 Da <Mw <1355 Da and 33.9 wt% <75 Da.

Ridulisse C increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. According to the invention, the interaction between the extracellular matrix (ECM) and the fibroblasts is understood to mean both the interaction between the collagen of the ECM and the fibroblasts and the interaction between the hyaluronic acid of the ECM and the fibroblasts.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range from 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range from 1400 to 1700 daltons, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.02 to 0.05 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition. A particularly preferred soy protein hydrolyzate according to the invention having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, is obtainable from Coletica under the trade name phytokines. It stimulates collagen synthesis. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1% by weight 0.001 - 0.1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.005 - 0.05 wt .-% and most preferably 0.006 - 0.01 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

A particularly preferred wheat protein hydrolyzate according to the invention is available under the trade name Liftiline from Silab.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate in a total amount of 0.001-5.0% by weight, preferably 0.01-1.0% by weight, more preferably 0.1-0 , 5 wt .-% and most preferably 0.2 to 0.4 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds. The term "hydrophilic extract" is understood according to the invention to mean an extract of ambrette seed which has been extracted with a hydrophilic solvent selected from water, ethanol, at least one polyhydric alcohol having 2 to 9 carbon atoms and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol 3-20 ethylene oxide units which are liquid under normal conditions Preferred polyhydric alcohols having 2 to 9 carbon atoms which are liquid under normal conditions are selected from ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3 Propanediol, glycerol, 1, 2-butylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol and 1, 4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols, such as 1, 2-pentanediol and 1, 5-pentanediol, hexanediols, such as 1, 2-hexanediol and 1, 6- Hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 2-ethyl-2-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol and Triglycer in and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Preferred water-soluble polyethylene glycols having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units which are liquid under normal conditions are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG- 12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being particularly preferred. Particularly preferred hydrophilic solvents are selected from water, 1, 3-butylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, 1, 2-butylene glycol, 1, 4-butylene glycol, ethanol and mixtures thereof. Exceptionally preferred hydrophilic solvents are selected from water as well as mixtures of water and 1,3-butylene glycol. Preferred hydrophilic extracts of ambrette seeds according to the invention are obtained from pressed and / or ground and / or de-oiled ambrette seeds.

The hydrophobic extracts of ambrette seeds according to the invention contain, based in each case on the dry substance, 1 to 100% by weight, preferably 2 to 80% by weight, more preferably 5 to 60% by weight and most preferably 10 to 50% by weight. -% peptides with 2-10 amino acid units and / or proteins.

The hydrophobic extracts of ambrette seed according to the invention provide protection against degradation of the fibroblast growth factor (FGF-2 or basic FGF or FGF-ß). Numerous growth factors are responsible for the physiological processes in the skin, especially FGF-2, which has a broad spectrum of activity. For example, FGF-2 controls the proliferation of fibroblasts, which in turn facilitates the synthesis of extracellular matrix (ECM) macromolecules such as proteoglycans, glycosaminoglycans such as chondroitin sulfates, keratan sulfate, and hyaluronic acid, as well as collagens, elastin, fibrillin, and laminin that are essential for the integrity of the skin. Heparan sulfate-containing proteoglycans of ECM bind FGF-2 and thus regulate its availability or protect the growth factor from degradation by proteolysis.

FGF-2 is present in several isoforms. In vertebrates, there are five isoforms with molecular weights of 18; 22; 22.5; 24 and 34 kDa known. Only the 18 kDa form occurs outside the cells, the others are enclosed inside the cell, more precisely in the nucleus. Although FGF-2 is present in the organism in such abundance that it can be purified and characterized, its Messenger RNA not detectable. This fact, and the peculiarity that it is intimately distributed to the basement membrane of the tissues, suggests that it is produced at an initial rate and then released by the cells during development to be stored in the ECM. This storage, if needed, allows FGF-2 release in the adult state to participate in tissue repair and maintain differentiated functions. With age, the supply of FGF-2 decreases, the maximum activity is not guaranteed. Therefore, in order to prevent the loss of skin cells to FGF-2 by proteolysis, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds in a total amount of 0.0001-0.5% by weight, preferably 0.001-0.1% by weight, more preferably 0.005-0.05% by weight and most preferably 0.01-0.04% by weight, based in each case on the content of active substance in the entire composition. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range from 1400 to 1700 daltons, b) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate and d) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds in weight ratios of 1: (0.1-1) :( 1-50): (0.1- 1), preferably 1: (0.2-0.6) :( 10-20) :( 0.3-0.5). It has been observed, particularly surprisingly, that the positive effects of the active substance combination a) to d) are significantly faster than with a treatment with only one, two or three of the active substances. Already after a single treatment significant improvements in the skin structure and the appearance of the skin were observed.

The protective effect of the hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds is particularly noticeable in long-term use.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to the active substance combination of the active ingredients a) to d), they contain at least one further active ingredient which stimulates collagen synthesis and is selected from

Hydroxyproline which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid residues, in particular dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, the tripeptides Gly-His-Lys, Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab, Lys- Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val

Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys-Val-Dap, Dap-Val-Lys and Gly-His-Arg, the tetrapeptides Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (Rigin), Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro, Val-Val Arg-Pro, Rigin-Analoga and ALAMCAT Tetrapeptides, the pentapeptide Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, the hexapeptides Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3), hexapeptide-4, hexapeptide-5, hexapeptide-6, hexapeptide-8, hexapeptide-9 and hexa-peptide-10, which is at least one, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid N-acylated and / or esterified derivatives of said tri-, tetra-, penta- and hexapeptides, in particular N-palmitoyl- Gly-His-Lys, N-palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys- Ser, N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, acetyl-hexapeptide-3, myristoyl hexapeptide-5, myristoyl hexapeptide-8 and mixtures of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N- Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, retinoids, especially retinol and C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol, Saccharomyces / xylinum / Black Tea ferment, olive leaf extracts (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract), oleanolic acid, oleanol,

Extracts from oat grains (Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract), green tea extracts (Camellia Sinensis), creatine, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

With a content of at least one other of the above collagen synthesis stimulating agents, the external appearance of the skin is further improved. In particular, the moisture content of the skin can thus be increased.

It may be particularly preferred according to the invention that the amino acids and peptides used as active ingredient are N-acylated and / or esterified to improve the penetration into the skin with at least one, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid. Particularly preferred for N-acylation and / or esterification are C ₈ -C ₁₈ -fatty acids, very particular preference is given to myristic acid (C ₁₄ ) and palmitic acid (C ₁₆ ). It is furthermore particularly preferred that all the amino acids and peptides used are N-acylated and / or esterified in this way. Also preferred is the substitution of the amino acids and peptides with a benzyloxycarbonyl group at the terminal amino group.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to the combination of active ingredients a) to d), they comprise at least one active substance which stimulates collagen synthesis in a total amount of 0.000001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 , 00001 - 2 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 1% by weight and most preferably 0.005 - 0.5 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they in addition to the active ingredient combination of the Active ingredients a) to d) contain at least one active substance which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts and which is selected from coconut fatty acid N-acylated and / or esterified soy protein hydrolyzates in the form of their alkali metal salts, preferably in the form of potassium salts,

Ascorbic acid, the esters of ascorbic acid with inorganic and / or organic

Acids, the ethers of ascorbic acid with mono-, oligo- and polysaccharides and the physiologically tolerated salts of these components,

Apple kernel extra kten (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract),

Lotus Seed Extracts (Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract),

Corn kernel extracts (Zea mays (Com) Kernel Extract),

Red and extra kte n,

Grape Seed Extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract), which are preferred from the

Chardonnay-D origin,

Extracts of Black Elderflower (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract),

Mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita),

Hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol and / or resveratrol mono-,

-di- and -triphosphoric acid esters and their salts,

Keratin hydrolysates, in particular wool keratin hydrolysates,

Conchiolinhydrolysaten, the dipeptide L-Citrullyl-L-arginine and its with at least one, preferably linear, C ₂ -

C ₂₂ fatty acid N-acylated and / or esterified derivatives, preferably acetyl citrullo amido

Arginine,

carnitine,

hypotaurine

L-Glutamylaminoethyl-indole,

Isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts,

Dihydroquercetin (= taxifolin), as well as mixtures thereof.

With a content of at least one other of the above active ingredients, which increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts, the external appearance of the skin is further improved. In particular, the nutrient supply of the skin cells can thus be increased, so that further active ingredients are better absorbed into the skin and show improved efficacy.

An in / out measurement of the mechanical stress of the ECM is difficult to realize. In the present invention, the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts was a) formed by means of a native type I collagen and human foreskin fibroblasts b) according to the increase in expression of the surface receptor CD44 set forth in WO 2003/053394 A2. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extra apple kernel in amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.01-1.6% by weight and more preferably 0.03-1 Wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition included. Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol) and / or resveratrol mono- , -di- and -triphosphorsäureestern and their salts. An inventively particularly preferred Resveratrolphosphorsäureester is trisodium resveratrol triphosphates.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from isoflavonoids and isoflavoid-rich plant extracts.

According to the invention, the isoflavones include the isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides. According to the invention, isoflavones are to be understood as substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, it being possible for hydrogenation to be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation to form a carbohydrate. nylgruppe in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.

In the isoflavone glycosides preferred according to the invention, the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar. Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin. Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a plant extract. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art, for example by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soy, in particular from soybean, red clover or chickpeas. Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts obtained from soybean are particularly preferably used in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Lipobelle Soyaglycone (Mibelle AG Cosmetics), Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available. Another special The preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple kernel extra kt, in particular the commercial product Ederline from Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in total amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0005-0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.001-0.1% by weight .-%, each based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.

Another active ingredient preferred according to the invention, which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts, is dihydroquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), which is also referred to as taxifolin.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active substance which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts, in a total amount of 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0, 00001 - 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005 - 0.5 or 1 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention for the topical treatment of the skin, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400 to 1700 daltons, b) at least a soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate and d) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds, are characterized in that they further contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient is selected from

- Monomers and oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, which are different from the obligatory active ingredients a) to d),

- DNA repair enzymes,

- DNA or RNA oligonucleotides,

- vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C and E and the esters of the abovementioned substances,

α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone and / or salt form,

- Flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plants extra kten,

- ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives,

- Silymarin,

- Ectoin, inorganic and organic UV filter substances,

- self-tanning,

- soothing,

- moisturizing and

- Sebumregulierenden agents and

- Mixtures of these substances.

It has been observed that such active ingredients have an increased activity on the skin optimized by the protein hydrolyzate combination a) to d) according to the invention. The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, which are different from the obligatory active ingredients a) to d), are preferably selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine , Glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, zinc pyroglutamate , Sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, taurine, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate.

The C ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl radical, with which all of the abovementioned amino acids and oligopeptides (including the obligatory active substances) can be derivatized at the amino group, is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl , Octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl, undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₈ -acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents. A particularly preferred acyl radical according to the invention which effects a particularly high availability of the acylated active substance is the palmitoyl radical.

The physiologically acceptable salts of the inventively preferred active ingredients containing acid groups and can form salts are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

Preferred oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides according to the invention are Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val-Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-.beta.-Ala-His, N Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester (eg Calmosensine from Sederma), carnosine (β-Ala-His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. Particularly preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides according to the invention are Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (Tripeptide-2), Tripeptide-4 (e.g. ATPeptides, available via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ . According to the invention preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified Pentapeptides N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N -Benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for the inhibition of desquamation). Preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides according to the invention are Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (eg modulenes from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (cf. eg SNAP-7 from Centerchem), hexapeptide-2 (eg, Vincan's melanostatine-DM), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine-homophenylalanine-Trp ( Hexapeptides-7) and hexapeptides-1 1 (eg, Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively particularly preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1).

DNA repair enzymes preferred according to the invention are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter being abbreviated to "T4N5" below. These two enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes. DNA repair is defined as the cleavage or removal of UV-induced pyrimidine dimers from the DNA.

Photolyase is the abbreviation for deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3. A particularly efficient photolyase is derived from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine microorganism. The photolyase from A. nidulans is now obtained in technically relevant quantities from E. coli. Photolyase relies on light for activation.

The enzyme T4 endonuclease V is produced by the cfenV gene of bacteriophage T4 and is one of the phosphodiesterases that hydrolytically cleave the nucleic acids at the (5 ^' -3> bond. T4N5 is also active without the influence of light.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosomes ™ (INCI name: Water, lecithin, plankton extract) with a protein concentration of 0.25 - 2 mg / ml, liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. B. Ultrasomes ™ (INCI name: Water, lecithin, Micrococcus luteus extract) with a protein concentration of 2-5 mg / ml (measured by the Bradford assay) of AGI Dermatics, USA, available. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention for the topical treatment of the skin, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400 to 1700 daltons, b) at least a soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate, and d) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds are characterized by further comprising at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected is from Photosomes ™ and / or Ultrasomes ™, in total amounts of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-%, based on the total agent included , Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention for the topical treatment of the skin, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400 to 1700 daltons, b) at least a soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate, and d) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds are characterized by further comprising at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected is from the monomers and oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances in total amounts of 0.00001 - 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 - 5 wt. % and more preferably 0.005-3% by weight, in each case be attracted to the entire composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers and oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances are present in supported form, in particular applied to finely divided, powdery substrates such as silica gel , in particular Aerosil types, furthermore talc, microsponges, modified starches and starch derivatives, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin derivatives, polymer particles of nylon, polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, which may be crosslinked, polyesters, polyamides, polystyrenes, Teflon and silicones. A particularly preferred raw material of this type are the Vegetal Filling Spheres of Coletica.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from DNA oligonucleotides and RNA oligonucleotides. According to the invention, an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in ß-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine-5 'triphosphate). An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide. In the particularly preferred compositions according to the invention, the DNA oligonucleotides or RNA oligonucleotides are present in amounts of 0.00001-5% by weight, preferably 0.0001-1.0 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.0005 - 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they further contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from at least one vitamin, provitamin or a vitamin precursor designated as a vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C and E, the esters and the salts of the aforementioned substances.

For vitamin A according to the present invention, retinol (vitamin A ₁ ), the C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol (= retinyl ester, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate), 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ), retinal and its Isomers, a-frans-retinoic acid, 9-c / s-retinoic acid and 13-c / s-retinoic acid (tretinoin), which are esters of retinoic acid as well as other related substances (synthetic retinoids) counted for their diverse biological activity in particular on growth and differentiation, as well as substances that have a specific biological effect by binding to the retinoid receptors RAR (retinoid acid receptor) and RXR (retinoid X receptor) and cause their activation. Synthetic retinoids are classified into three groups: non-aromatic (eg, isotretinoin), monoaromatic (eg, acitretin), and polyaromatic (so-called arotinoids, eg, tazarotene, which have a specific effect on single retinoid receptors). Particularly preferred compounds according to the invention from the vitamin group A are retinol and the C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid esters of retinol, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate. The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

- Vitamin B _1, thiamine trivial name, chemical designation 3 - [(4 ^'-amino-2' -methyl-5 ^'-pyrimidi- nyl) methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.

- Vitamin B ₂ , common name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) - benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3 / - /, 10 / - /) - dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.

- Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.

- Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol, it is also possible to use derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (VIT-I).

(VIT-I)

Preference is given to the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ⁶ independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched one C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono , Di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ - hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3 , 3-Dimethyl-2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative according to the invention is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), where in formula (I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 represent} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.

The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and the 2-furanone derivatives are present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols. Vitamin B ₆ is contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6af?) - 2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] -imidazole-4-valeric acid. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

Folic acid (vitamin B ₉ , vitamin B _c ). International generic name for N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid (N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu). Folate is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate. Folate is the collective term for all acid-active compounds and denotes a substance class that has a 4-amino acid class. benzoic acid and L-glutamic acid associated pteridine ring. Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a compound of vitamin character, which is usually found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H ₂ folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H ₄ folate, THF, 5'-methyl). Tetrahydrofolic acid, CH ₃ -H ₄ folate, MeTHF). Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01 to 0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.

- Orotic acid (vitamin B ₁₃ , 1, 2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid). Orotic acid, its choline ester or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.

Active ingredients which are preferred according to the invention and belong to the vitamin C group are selected from ascorbic acid, the esters of ascorbic acid with inorganic and / or organic acids, the ethers of ascorbic acid with mono-, oligo- and polysaccharides, as well as the physiologically tolerated salts of these components. In the case of the physiologically tolerated salts, the zinc, copper and manganese salts and the salts of the alkali and alkaline earth metals, in particular the sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium salts, are particularly preferred. Particularly preferred active ingredients belonging to the vitamin C group are selected from ascorbic acid and the ascorbic acid derivatives sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sodium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl acetate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, chitosan ascorbate and ascorbyl glucoside.

The vitamin E group includes tocopherol, especially α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Tocopherol and its derivatives are preferably present in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone and / or salt form. Preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2- Hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erytharic acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gularic acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, Glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. A particularly preferred α-ketocarboxylic acid is pyruvic acid. The esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Other derivatives of the abovementioned acids are their physiologically tolerated salts, preferably the zinc, copper and manganese salts, the salts of the alkali and alkaline earth metals and the ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, particularly preferably the sodium, Potassium, magnesium and calcium salts. The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids or β-hydroxycarboxylic acids or their derivatives are preferably present in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 0.5-5% by weight and most preferably 1-2% by weight. -%, in each case based on the total composition included.

The .alpha.-hydroxycarboxylic acids, .alpha.-ketocarboxylic acids or .beta.-hydroxycarboxylic acids or their derivatives show, in interaction with the active ingredient combination a) to d) according to the invention, a surprisingly better compatibility. Usually, the acid components can cause some irritative effect, especially in higher concentrations. This can be reduced by the active ingredient combination a) to d) according to the invention.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from at least one flavonoid and / or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract.

The flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols) and the aurones. The flavanones and isoflavones according to the invention are expressly excluded from the flavonoids. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3 -rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α -L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α -L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside). Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside. Also preferred are the constructed from two flavonoid biflavonoids, z. B. in gingko species occurrence. Further preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin and neohespeptide dihydrochalcone.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are used in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the Flavo noidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition. The flavonoids, in conjunction with the active ingredient combination a) to d) according to the invention, have a surprisingly better antioxidant effect, which increases the antiaging performance of the flavonoids.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they further contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (UBI-I):

(UBI-I)

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Particularly preferred is the ubiquinone of the formula (UBI-I) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10.

According to the invention, the ubiquinones, ubiquinols or derivatives thereof in a total amount of 0.0001 - 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, used.

The ubiquinones and ubiquinols show, in interaction with the active ingredient combination a) to d) according to the invention, a surprisingly better antioxidant effect, which increases the antiaging performance of the flavonoids.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they further contain silymarin. According to the invention, silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was previously regarded as a uniform substance. The main constituents of silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydianin, which belong to the group of flavanolignans. According to the invention silymarin is used in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Silymarin, in conjunction with the active ingredient combination a) to d) according to the invention, has a surprisingly better antioxidant effect, which increases the antiaging performance of silymarin.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they also contain ectoine. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention, ectoine is preferably present in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

Ectoin causes in conjunction with the active ingredient combination a) to d) according to the invention a surprisingly better supply of nutrients to the cells of the skin.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they further contain at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance.

The UV filter substances are substances which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention. The organic UV filters preferred according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or unsymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomers and oligomeric 4,4-diarylbutadiene carboxylic acid esters and carboxamides, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, benzalmalonic acid esters, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the stated components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives are present in a pigmentary, ie undissolved form, for example in particle sizes of from 10 nm to 300 nm. According to the invention particularly preferred oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) -propane-1, 3-dione, 3- (4 ^{methylbenzylidene)} -D, L-camphor, A- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, A Amyl (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, Salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid acid homomenthyl ester (S, 5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- (4'-diethylamino -2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoesäurehexylester (also: aminobenzophenone, available under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF), 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexyl ester, bound to polymers UV filters, eg. B. the 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer with the INCI name dimethico-diethylbenzal malonate (CAS No. 207574-74-1, Parsol ^® SLX), triazine derivatives such. B. 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxy) phenol methoxyphenyl triazine, available under the name Tinosorb S from CIBA), Dioctylbutyl- amidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, available under the name Uvasorb HEB from Sigma 3V ^®), 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2 '-ethyl-1' -hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine (ethylhexyl triazone, Uvinul ^® T 150), 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine -2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6), 2,4-bis [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3,5- triazine (CAS no. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ^® from 3V Sigma), the benzotriazole derivatives of 2,2'-methylene- bis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) [Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical), 2- (2'-hydroxy-3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole ( CAS No .: 025973-551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'- octylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS no. 003147-75-9), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 2440-22-4), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6 - [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - ((trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI Designation Dro metrizole Trisiloxanes, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI : bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or Aniso triazine, available as Tinosorb S from CIBA ^®), 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [ 4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy ] -phenyl} -6- [4- (ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6 - (1-methyl-pyrr ol-2-yl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-methyl-propenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5 '

Heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and mixtures of the above components.

Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, Alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, in particular the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), for example under the trade name Eusolex 232 at Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro at Symrise and the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP from Symrise, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone- 5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenidenyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof with the INCI name Terephthalydene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS .: 90457-82-2, available as Mexoryl SX from Chimex).

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, solutions of the UV-A-filter 1 can be, for example, (4-tert-butylphenyl) - 3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (such as Parsol ^® 1789th) in various UV- Make B filters. Therefore, in a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl 2-methoxy cinnamic acid, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethyl cyclohexyl salicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

According to the invention, the organic UV filter substances are preferably in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, more preferably 0.5-20% by weight, most preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight and more preferably 3.0 - 10 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. According to the invention, the inorganic UV filter substances are preferably present in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, more preferably 0.5-10% by weight, even more preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight and more preferably 2.0 - 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they further contain at least one self-tanning active ingredient. Self-tanning active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose and 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.

According to the invention, the self-tanning active ingredients are present in a total amount of 0.01-15% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight and most preferably 2.0-4. 0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they further contain at least one skin-soothing active ingredient. Skin-soothing active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from allantoin, α-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, extracts from Centella asiatica, for example obtainable under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, glycyrrethic acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z. B. sold under the trade name Calmsphere by Soliance, mixtures of cereal waxes, extracts of shea butter and Argania Spinosa oil with the INCI name "Spent grain wax and Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania Spinosa Kernel OiI", as z B. under the trade name Stimu-Tex AS available from the company Pentapharm, extracts of vanilla Tahitensis, as they are available, for example, under the trade name Vanirea (INCI: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) from the company Solabia, Alginhydrolysaten, such they are obtainable, for example, from Codif under the trade name Phycosaccharides, in particular phycosaccharides AI, extracts from Bacopa Monniera, as obtainable, for example, under the trade name Bacocalmine from Sederma, extracts from the Rooibos plant, as are obtainable, for example, under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE from Cosmetochem, yeast extracts, particularly preferably the commercial pro Drieline (INCI name "sorbitol, Yeast Extract"), available from Lanatech, the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, such as. B. under the trade name phytocohesins (INCI: sodium beta-sitosteryl) are available from the company Vincience, aminodicarboxylic acids having a carbon chain length of 3 to 6 carbon atoms and their physiologically acceptable salts, preferably selected from aminomalonic, aminosuccinic (= aspartic acid), aminoglutaric and aminoadipic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts such as potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate, as well as any mixtures of these substances.

The skin-soothing active ingredients are preferably present in a total amount of 0.001-5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they further contain at least one moisture-absorbing active ingredient. Moisturizing active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from deoxysugars, more preferably rhamnose and fucose, polysaccharides, which contain at least one deoxy-block, particularly preferably from the commercial products Fucogel ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-1) from Solabia, Rhamnosoft ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2) from Solabia, Fucogenol ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide rubber (3) from Solabia and Glycofilm ^® INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4) from Solabia, further mixtures of the above, at least containing a deoxy-block polysaccharides, for example the mixture of Biosaccharide Gum-2 and Biosaccharide Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia, furthermore urea, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea and betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^" ).

The moisturizing active ingredients are preferably present in total amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight and most preferably from 0.1 to 1 or 2% by weight, based in each case on the total composition ,

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they further comprise at least one sebumregulierenden active ingredient. Sebum-regulating active substances which are preferred according to the invention are selected from azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-decanediol which are used as the triple combination according to the invention in the commercial product acnacidol PG from Vincience, furthermore from the commercial product Azeloglicina (potassium azeloyl diglycinate) from Sinerga, Extracts of Spiraea Ulmaria, as they are eg. As in the product Seboregul the company Silab are included, further water and oil soluble extracts of Hamamelis, burdock and nettles, Zimtbaumextract (z. B. Sepicontrol ^® A5 by the company SEPPIC), chrysanthemum extract (z. B. Laricyl ^® from Laboratoires Serobiologiques) and the active compound mixtures Asebiol ^® BT 2 (Laboratoires Serobiologiques, INCI: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, glycerol, panthenol, allantoin, biotin) and antiobesity factor ^® COS-218/2-A (Cosmetochem, INCI: Aqua , Cetyl-PCA, PEG-8 isolauryl thioether, PCA, cetyl alcohol).

The sebum-regulating active ingredients are preferably present in a total amount of 0.001-5% by weight, more preferably 0.01-2% by weight and most preferably 0.1-1% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention for the topical treatment of the skin, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400 to 1700 daltons, b) at least a soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate and d) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds according to any one of claims 1 to 9 are characterized in that they further contain at least one conditioning agent. According to the invention, conditioning substances are to be understood as substances which are absorbed by keratinic materials, in particular on the skin, and improve the physical and sensory properties of both the skin and of the product as such. Conditioners smooth the top layer of the skin and make it soft and supple. Through the choice of conditioning agents (greasy - less greasy, fast or slow spreading, quickly or slowly absorbed into the skin and so on), the skin feel of the entire product can be adjusted.

Conditioning agents according to the invention are selected from fatty substances, in particular vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil, lanolin and its derivatives, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons , Di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, z. B. di-n-octyl ether and n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, fatty acids, especially linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C ₈ - ₃ o fatty acids, fatty alcohols, particularly saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 4-30 carbon atoms which may be ethoxylated with 1-75, preferably 5-20 ethylene oxide units and / or propoxylated with 3-30, preferably 9-14 propylene oxide units, ester oils, ie esters of C ₆ - ₃ o-fatty acids with C ₂ - ₃ o-fatty alcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters, dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol diol or Propylenglykoldi (2-ethylhexanoate), symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. As glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC), mono, - di- and Trifettsäureestern of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, which are ethoxylated with 1-10, preferably 7-9 ethylene oxide units can, for. B. PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, waxes, especially insect waxes, plant waxes, fruit waxes, ozokerite, microwaxes, ceresin, paraffin waxes, triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated Ci ₆ - ₃ o-fatty acids, eg. Hardened triglyceride fats, phospholipids, for example soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and silicone polymers which may, if desired, be cross-linked, e.g. B. polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes having the earlier INCI name dimethicone copolyol, and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups, preferably substances with the INCI names Dimethiconol, Amodimethicone or trimethylsilylamodimethicones. The amount of fatty substances used is preferably 0.1-99% by weight, more preferably 2-50% by weight and most preferably 5-20% by weight, in each case based on the total skin treatment agent. Preferably, the cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water-in-oil. or water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, a hydrogel, a lipogel, a mono- or multiphase solution, a foam, a powder or a mixture with at least one polymer suitable as a medical adhesive. The agents may also be used in anhydrous form, such as For example, an oil or a balm, be presented. Here, the carrier may be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the agents according to the invention, the agents are present as microemulsions. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood as meaning not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called "PIT" emulsions These emulsions are systems with the three components water, oil and emulsifier, which are oil at room temperature When these systems are heated, microemulsions are formed in a certain temperature range (referred to as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT") which, on further heating, converts to water-in-oil emulsions O / W emulsions are also formed, which are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions having a mean particle diameter of less than 400 nm and in particular of approximately 100 to 300 nm which have a mean particle diameter of about 200 nm.

In the preferred embodiment as an emulsion, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one surface-active substance as emulsifier or dispersant. Suitable emulsifiers are for example adducts of from 4 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, on C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and C ₈ -C ₅ alkyl phenols, C ₂ - C ₂₂ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto C ₃ -C ₆ polyols, in particular glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol plant-delay products onto methyl glucoside fatty acid ester, fatty acid alkanolamides and Fettsäureglucami- de, C ₈ C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of 1, 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 2.0, and glucose are preferred as the sugar component, mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, e.g. As the commercially available product Montanov ^® 68, addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, sterols (sterols), in particular cholesterol, lanosterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, Campe- sterol and ergosterol, as well as mycosterols, phospholipids, especially glucose phospholipids, fatty acid ester of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol, preferably Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH) and polyglyceryl 3 diisostearate (Lameform ^® TGI commercial product), polymeric emulsifiers such as PEG-150 distearate or PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, and linear and branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The compositions according to the invention contain at least one emulsifier, preferably in a total amount of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total composition.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 and below is included. Such preferred emulsifiers are in particular those compounds of the general formula R ¹ -O-R ² , in which R ^{1 is} a primary linear alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group having 20-30 C atoms, preferably a behenyl radical, and R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a group with the formula - (C _n H _2n O) _x -H with x = 1 or 2 and n = 2-4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group with 4-6 C atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups, preferably hydrogen. A particularly preferred compound R ¹ -O-R ² is behenyl alcohol. Further preferred emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 and below are the adducts of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenic acid or erucic acid. Preferably, the monoesters of Ci ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with polyols such as. As pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methyl glucose. Examples of such products are z. B. sorbitan monobehenate or pentaerythritol mono- erucat. The presence of emulsifiers of the general formula R ¹ -O-R ² can lead to lamellar structures in the emulsion, which can have particularly favorable effects on the restoration of the lamellar structure of the skin. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they are present in the form of a lamellar structures oil-in-water emulsion.

Other suitable additives are thickeners, for. Example, natural and synthetic clays and phyllosilicates such as bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite or Laponite ^® , or anionic polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, where the acidic groups in whole or in part as sodium , Potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt, and wherein at least one nonionic monomer may be contained. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups. These copolymers can also be present in crosslinked form. Suitable commercial products are NS Sepigel ^® 305 Simulgel® ^® 600 ^® and Simulgel® Simulgel® ^® EC SEPPIC. Further particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ^®. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C ₃ . _6- carboxylic acid or its anhydride and to 2 - 20%, if desired, substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated C ₁₀ - ₃₀ - carboxylic acids, wherein the copolymer may be crosslinked with the aforementioned crosslinking agents. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^® and Carbopol ^® grades 954, 980, 1342, 1382 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).

Suitable nonionic polymers include polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, for. As the commercial products Mowiol ^® and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidone z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF) are sold. Other preferred additives are antioxidants, preservatives, solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol and Diethylene glycol, adsorbents and fillers such as talc and Veegum ^®, perfume oils, pigments and dyes for coloring the composition, substances for adjusting the pH, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, .beta.-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids, propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, Pentane, isopentane, isobutane, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

A further subject matter of the present invention is the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition for the topical treatment of the skin which is present in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range 1400-1700 daltons, b) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate and d) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds according to one of the claims 1 to 9 for the treatment of photodamaged and / or light-aged and / or intrinsically and / or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment. to increase the skin firmness and / or to improve the mechanical stability of the skin and / or to increase the skin elasticity and / or skin firmness and / or to improve the skin softness and smoothness, to smooth the skin and / or to reduce wrinkles, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or to improve the appearance of the skin, protect and / or prevent extrinsic skin aging and / or delay extrinsic skin aging, retard intrinsic skin aging, treat age spots, maintain normal protein metabolism the skin, to reduce oxidative damage in the skin and / or to improve the skin compatibility of skin treatment agents with anti-aging effect, in particular anti-wrinkle agents.

The skin firmness and the mechanical stability of the skin can for a z. On the other hand via the parameter U _F (total expandability of the skin under negative pressure), which can be measured with the cutometer, determined over the torsion angle, which can be measured with the Dermal Torque Meter.

A further subject matter of the present invention is the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition for the topical treatment of the skin which is present in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range from 1400 to 1700 daltons, b) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate and d) at least one hydrophilic extract

Ambrette seed according to one of the claims 1 - 9 contains, for the treatment of light-damaged and / or light-aged and / or intrinsically and / or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment. to increase the skin firmness and / or to improve the mechanical stability of the skin and / or to increase the skin elasticity and / or skin firmness and / or to improve the skin softness and smoothness, to smooth the skin and / or to reduce wrinkles, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or to improve the appearance of the skin, protect and / or prevent extrinsic skin aging and / or delay extrinsic skin aging, retard intrinsic skin aging, treat age spots, maintain normal protein metabolism the skin, to reduce oxidative damage in the skin and / or to improve the skin compatibility of skin treatment agents with anti-aging effect, in particular anti-wrinkle agents.

For preferred embodiments of the uses according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

Another object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic method for the non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of photodamaged and / or light-aged and / or intrinsically and / or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, to increase the skin firmness and / or to improve the mechanical Stability of the skin and / or to increase the elasticity of the skin and / or the firmness of the skin and / or to improve the softness and smoothness of the skin, to smooth the skin and / or to reduce wrinkles, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or to improve the visual appearance Appearance of the skin, for the protection and / or prophylaxis of extrinsic skin aging and / or retarding extrinsic skin aging, retarding intrinsic skin aging, treating age spots, maintaining normal protein metabolism of the skin, reducing oxidative damage in the skin the skin and / or to improve the skin compatibility of skin treatment compositions with anti-aging effect, in particular anti-wrinkle agents, which is characterized in that a cosmetic or dermatological topical composition according to any one of claims 1-9 is applied to the skin. Also for preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the compositions of the invention.

The following formulation example is intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it thereto.

All amounts are in wt .-%, based on the total composition.

1. Skin cream (lamellar oil-in-water emulsion)

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition for the topical treatment of the skin, comprising in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400 to 1700 daltons, b) at least one Soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate and d) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds.

2. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400 to 1700 daltons, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 5 wt. %, preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.02 to 0.05 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.

Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001-0.1% by weight, more preferably 0.005-0.05% by weight, and most preferably 0.006-0.01% by weight, each based on the content of the active substance in the whole composition.

4. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate in a total amount of 0.001 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 1, 0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-% and most preferably 0.2 to 0.4 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

5. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1, 2, 3 or 4, characterized in that at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds in a total amount of 0.0001 - 0.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 - 0.1 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.05 wt .-% and exceptionally preferably 0.01 to 0.04 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

6. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5, characterized in that it comprises a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400 to 1700 daltons b) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate and d) at least one hydrophilic extract from ambrette seeds in weight ratios of 1: (0.1-1): (1 - 50): (0.1 - 1), preferably 1: (0.2 - 0.6): (10 - 20): (0.3 - 0.5).

7. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of the preceding claims, containing at least one further cosmetic active ingredient, selected from: a) monomers and oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, b) DNA repair enzymes, c) DNA or RNA oligonucleotides, d) vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C and E and the salts and / or the esters of the abovementioned substances, e) α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone and / or salt form, f) flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts, g) ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, h ) Silymarin, i) ectoine, j) inorganic and organic UV filter substances, k) self-tanning active substances,

I) skin-calming active ingredients, m) moisturizing active ingredients, n) sebum-regulating active ingredients, o) as well as mixtures of these active ingredients a) - n).

Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 and lower of the general formula R ¹ -O-R ² , in which R ^{1 is} a primary linear alkyl, Alkenyl or acyl group having 20-30 C atoms, preferably a behenyl radical, and R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a group having the formula - (C _n H _2n O) _x -H where x = 1 or 2 and n = 2 - 4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group having 4-6 C-atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups, preferably hydrogen, is, preferably behenyl alcohol, is included.

Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a lamellar structure oil-in-water emulsion.

10. Using a combination of

(a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400 to 1700 daltons,

(b) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1,000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons,

(c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate and

(D) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds according to any one of claims 1-9 for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological

Composition for the treatment of light-damaged and / or light-aged and / or intrinsically and / or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, for increasing skin firmness and / or for improving the mechanical stability of the skin

Skin and / or to increase skin elasticity and / or skin firmness and / or

Improvement of skin softness and smoothness, to smooth the skin and / or to reduce wrinkles, fine lines and / or fine lines and / or to improve the visual appearance of the skin, for protection and / or prophylaxis against extrinsic skin aging and / or delay extrinsic skin aging, to delay intrinsic skin aging, to treat age spots, to maintain normal protein metabolism of the skin, to reduce oxidative damage in the skin, and / or to improve the skin compatibility of anti-aging skin care agents, especially anti-wrinkle agents.

1 1. Using a combination of

(a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400 to 1700 daltons,

(b) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1,000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons,

(c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate and

(d) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seeds according to any one of claims 1-9 for the treatment of light-damaged and / or light-aged and / or intrinsically and / or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, for increasing skin firmness and / or for improving the mechanical stability of the skin

Skin and / or to increase skin elasticity and / or skin firmness and / or

Improvement of skin softness and smoothness, to smooth the skin and / or to reduce wrinkles, fine lines and / or fine lines and / or to improve the visual appearance of the skin, for protection and / or prophylaxis against extrinsic skin aging and / or delay extrinsic skin aging, to delay intrinsic skin aging, to treat age spots, to maintain normal protein metabolism of the skin, to reduce oxidative damage in the skin, and / or to improve the skin compatibility of anti-aging skin care agents, especially anti-wrinkle agents.

12. Non-therapeutic, cosmetic method for the non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of photodamaged and / or light-aged and / or intrinsically and / or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, to increase skin firmness and / or to improve the mechanical stability of the skin and / or to increase the elasticity of the skin and / or the firmness of the skin and / or to improve the softness and smoothness of the skin, to smooth the skin and / or to reduce wrinkles, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or to improve the visual appearance of the skin, for the protection and / or prophylaxis of extrinsic skin aging and / or retarding extrinsic skin aging, retarding intrinsic skin aging, non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of age spots, maintenance of normal protein metabolism of the skin, reduction of oxidative damage in the skin Skin and / or to improve the skin compatibility of skin treatment compositions having anti-aging action, in particular anti-wrinkle agents, characterized in that a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1-9, containing a combination of a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in Range from 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range from 1400 to 1700 daltons, b) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate and d) at least one hydrophilic extract of ambrette seed applied to the skin.