DE102005063179A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological composition for topical skin treatment, used e.g. to increase epidermal thickness, contains a Vitamin B6 component and a compound that stimulates collagen synthesis - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological composition (A) for topical treatment of the skin comprises, in a suitable carrier, at least one Vitamin B6 component (I) and, the new feature, at least one agent (II) that stimulates synthesis of collagen. Cosmetic or dermatological composition (A) for topical treatment of the skin comprises, in a suitable carrier, at least one Vitamin B6 component (I) and, the new feature, at least one agent (II) that stimulates synthesis of collagen. (II) is: (a) a soya protein hydrolyzate (SPH) with mean molecular weight 600-1000, preferably 800, D; (b)hydroxyproline N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear 2-22C fatty acid residues, especially dipalmitoylhydroxyproline; (c) the tripeptides Gly-His-Lys, Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (= diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn (= ornithine), Lys-Val-Dap (=diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys or Gly-His-Arg; (d) the tetrapeptides Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (rigin), Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro, Val-Val-Arg-Pro, rigin analogs and ALAM-CAT peptides; (e) Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser; (f) Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr, and hexapeptides 4 to 10; (g) any of (c)-(f) N-acylated and/or esterified with at least one, preferably linear, 2-22C fatty acid residue, especially N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys, N-palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, acetyl-hexapeptide-3, myristoyl hexapeptide-5 or -8, and mixtures of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg; (h) retinoids, especially retinol and its 2-22C fatty acid esters; (i) Saccharomyces/xylinum/black tea ferment; (j) olive leaf extract; (k) oleanolic acid; (l) oleanol; (m) oat kernel extract; (n) liposome-encapsulated green tea extract; and/or (o) creatine. Independent claims are also included for the following: (1) similar composition (A1) that contains (I) and at least one agent (III) that increases/improves interaction between the extracellular matrix (ECM) and fibroblasts; (2) similar composition (A2) that contains (I) and an additional cosmetic agent (IV); and (3) similar composition (A3) that contains (I), SPH of mean molecular weight 1200-1800, preferably 1400-1700, D; SPH of mean molecular weight 600-1000, preferably 800, D and a wheat protein hydrolyzate. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. No details of tests for dermatological activity are given. MECHANISM OF ACTION : Stimulating biosynthesis of collagent and/or increasing interaction between extracellular matrix and fibroblasts.

Description

The The invention relates to new uses of vitamin B6 or vitamin B6 components for the treatment of skin aging as well as topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the treatment of mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged or photodamaged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier at least one vitamin B6 component and another synergistic effective cosmetic active ingredient.

A authoritative Result of skin aging is the loss of collagen. This is based on the one hand on a decreased collagen synthesis in certain Skin cells, the fibroblasts, on the other hand on increased collagen degradation, in particular by certain enzymes, such as the so-called matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). In particular, leads the UV-induced expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 for degradation of collagen-1, which is about 85% of the total protein in the extracellular matrix accounts. In addition to the elements of the cytoskeleton and the gap junction proteins Other proteins impart mechanical stability to the skin tissue. These Proteins mediate cell-extracellular matrix (ECM) binding. Part of the ECM is z. As the collagen or hyaluronic acid. For the bond of cells to the ECM proteins are receptors, the on the cell surface are localized. Thus, e.g. the surface receptor CD44, its expression For example, is increased by apple seed extracts, hyaluronic acid.

Next carries the collagen degradation but also the removal of other proteins of the skin tissue to the visible ones Skin aging phenomena at. Active ingredients, the skin folds and to counteract other visible signs of aging, have to therefore not necessarily start with collagen synthesis. There these processes take place in the deeper layers of the skin, the dermis, would appropriate active ingredients reach into the dermis.

It There is a big one Interest in effective cosmetic products that are able already in the epidermis to affect the appearance of the to improve aging skin.

A The object of the present invention was to provide active substances the, by means of topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions applied to the skin, for the treatment of epidermal signs mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, are suitable.

Surprised and for The expert was unpredictable now found that vitamin B6 or vitamin B6 components are capable of providing the properties the epidermis, in particular its thickness and elasticity, to improve.

One The subject of the present invention is therefore the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of at least one vitamin B6 component to increase the epidermis thickness and / or to strengthen and / or for tightening the epidermis.

One Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of at least one vitamin B6 component for reconstruction and / or restructuring and / or regeneration and / or to strengthen and / or to streamline photodamaged and / or light aged ones and / or intrinsically and / or extrinsically aged skin.

One Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one vitamin B6 component to increase the skin firmness and / or to improve the mechanical stability the skin and / or to increase skin elasticity and / or skin tightness and / or to improve skin softness and Skin smoothness.

One Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one vitamin B6 component for anti-wrinkle treatment for smoothing the skin and / or to reduce wrinkles, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or to improve the visual appearance of the skin.

One Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of at least one vitamin B6 component to improve and / or increase skin moisture.

One Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one vitamin B6 component for protection and / or prophylaxis against extrinsic skin aging and / or for delay the extrinsic skin aging.

One Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one vitamin B6 component to delay the intrinsic skin aging.

Particularly according to the invention preferred vitamin B6 components are selected from pyridoxine, pyridoxine hydrochloride, Pyridoxine-5'-monophosphate, Pyridoxal, pyridoxal-5'-monophosphate, Pyrido xamin, pyridoxamine hydrochloride and pyridoxamine 5'-monophosphate and Mixtures of these components.

The at least one used according to the invention Vitamin B6 component is suitable for topical application in a suitable incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological carriers, preferably in a total amount of 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts from 0.01 to 1.0 and extraordinarily preferably 0.1-0.5 Wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the topical composition.

One Another subject of the present application are compositions for topical treatment of the skin in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier at least one vitamin B6 component and furthermore at least one Soy protein hydrolyzate with an average molecular weight in the range from 1200-1800 Dalton, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 daltons.

One Another subject of the present application are compositions for topical treatment of the skin in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier at least one vitamin B6 component and at least one further Soy protein hydrolyzate with an average molecular weight in the range from 600-1000 Dalton, preferably 800 daltons, included.

One Another subject of the present application are compositions for topical treatment of the skin in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier at least one vitamin B6 component and at least one further Wheat protein hydrolyzate.

Surprisingly It has been found that such compositions for treatment mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle treatment, are excellent because their effects on wrinkle smoothing and the improvement of the skin appearance compared to the Compositions of the prior art in a synergistic manner be increased and improved. At the same time it was found that with compositions in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier at least one vitamin B6 component, at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 daltons, at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, and at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate contain an effective anti-wrinkle treatment with improved skin tolerance can be done.

One particularly according to the invention preferred soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 Dalton, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 Daltons (Da), is under the trade name Ridulisse C available from Silab. The protein hydrolyzate content in Ridulisse C contains four molecular weight fractions: 0.8 wt .-% with a Mw> 12,500 There, 22.2 wt% with 1355 Da <Mw <12,500 Da, 43.1 Wt% 75 Da <Mw <1355 Da and 33.9 % By weight <75 Da.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 Dalton, in a total amount of 0.0001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001-1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01-0.1 Wt .-% and extraordinary preferably 0.02-0.05 Wt .-%, contained, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition.

An inventively particularly preferred soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 Dalton, preferably 800 Dalton, is under the trade name Phytokine of the Company Coletica available.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, in a total amount of 0.0001-1% by weight, preferably 0.001-0.1 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005-0.05 wt .-% and extraordinarily preferably 0.006-0.01 Wt .-%, contained, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition.

One particularly according to the invention preferred wheat protein hydrolyzate is under the trade name Liftiline available from Silab.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate in a total amount of 0.001-5.0 Wt .-%, preferably 0.01-1.0 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1-0.5 Wt .-% and extremely preferred 0.2-0.4 Wt .-%, contained, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that in addition to at least one Vitamin B6 component a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate with an average molecular weight in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 Dalton b) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate with a middle Molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 Dalton, and c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate in weight ratios from 1: (0.1-1) :( 1-50), preferred 1: (0.2-0.6) :( 10-20).

• – mindestens einem Sojaproteinhydrolysat mit einem mittleren Molekulargewicht im Bereich von 600–1000 Dalton, bevorzugt 800 Dalton,
• – Hydroxyprolin, das mit zwei, bevorzugt linearen, C₂-C₂₂-Fettsäureresten N-acyliert und verestert ist, insbesondere Dipalmitoylhydroxyprolin,
• – den Tripeptiden Gly-His-Lys, Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab, Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys-Val-Dap, Dap-Val-Lys und Gly-His-Arg,
• – den Tetrapeptiden Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (Rigin), Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro, Val-Val-Arg-Pro, Rigin-Analoga sowie ALAMCAT-Tetrapeptiden,
• – dem Pentapeptid Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
• – den Hexapeptiden Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (Hexapeptide-3), Hexapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-5, Hexapeptide-6, Hexapeptide-8, Hexapeptide-9 und Hexapeptide-10,
• – den mit mindestens einer, bevorzugt linearen, C₂-C₂₂-Fettsäure N-acylierten und/oder veresterten Derivaten der genannten Tri-, Tetra-, Penta- und Hexapeptide, insbesondere N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys, N-Palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, N-Myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, N-Palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, N-Palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-5, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-8 sowie Mischungen aus N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys und N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• – Retinoiden, insbesondere Retinol und C₂-C₂₂-Fettsäureestern des Retinols,
• – Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment,
• – Olivenblattextrakten (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract),
• – Oleanolsäure,
• – Oleanol,
• – Extrakten aus Haferkörnern (Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract),
• – liposomenverkapselten Grüntee-Extrakten (Camellia Sinensis),
• – Kreatin,
• – sowie Mischungen der vorgenannten Substanzen.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to the at least one vitamin B6 component, they contain at least one further active ingredient which stimulates collagen synthesis and is selected from

• At least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons,
• Hydroxyproline which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residues, in particular dipalmitoylhydroxyproline,
• The tripeptides Gly-His-Lys, Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab, Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys-Val-Dap , Dap-Val-Lys and Gly-His-Arg,
• The tetrapeptides Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (Rigin), Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro, Val-Val-Arg-Pro, Rigin analogs and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides,
• The pentapeptide Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
• The hexapeptides Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3), hexapeptide-4, hexapeptide-5, hexapeptide-6, hexapeptide-8, hexapeptide- 9 and hexapeptides-10,
• N-acylated and / or esterified derivatives of at least one, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid of said tri-, tetra-, penta- and hexapeptides, in particular N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys, N- Palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, N-palmitoyl-Val Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, acetyl-hexapeptide-3, myristoyl hexapeptide-5, myristoyl hexapeptide-8 and mixtures of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
• Retinoids, in particular retinol and C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol,
• - Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment,
• Olive leaf extracts (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract),
• - oleanolic acid,
• - oleanol,
• Oatmeal extracts (Avena sativa (Oat) kernel extract),
• - liposome-encapsulated green tea extracts (Camellia sinensis),
• - Creatine,
• - And mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

It may be particularly preferred according to the invention that the amino acids and peptides used as active ingredient are N-acylated and / or esterified to improve the penetration into the skin with at least one, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid. Particularly preferred for N-acylation and / or esterification are C ₈ -C ₁₈ -fatty acids, very particular preference is given to myristic acid (C ₁₄ ) and palmitic acid (C ₁₆ ). It is furthermore particularly preferred that all the amino acids and peptides used are N-acylated and / or esterified in this way. Also preferred is the substitution of the amino acids and peptides with a benzyloxycar bonyl group at the terminal amino group.

Additional active substances which are preferred according to the invention and stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from hydroxyproline which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residues, more preferably dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, which is e.g. B. Sepilift PDHP available from the company Seppic.

An inventively preferred peptide that stimulates collagen synthesis is the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" from GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component The tri-peptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as the copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) and as such can be obtained from ProCyte Corporation Furthermore, analogues of Gly-His-Lys can preferably be used Ala, Leu and Ile are preferably suitable for the substitution of Gly According to the invention particularly preferred amino acids which can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom which predominantly charged at pH 6 For example, Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine are particularly preferably replaced by Arg, Orn or citrulline Accordingly, the preferred peptide which stimulates collagen synthesis is Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, which, for example, is disclosed in US Pat. B. under the name Collasyn 314-GR of Therapeutic Peptide Inc. is available.

Further tripeptides which are preferred according to the invention and stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys- Val-Orn, Lys-Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid) and Dap-Val-Lys. A particularly preferred tripeptide is palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. B. available from the company Pentapharm under the name SYN ^® -COLL.

Further according to the invention preferred Tetrapeptides that stimulate collagen synthesis are the tetrapeptide Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, especially the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (INCI name: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-1), the Z. B. available under the name Eyeliss from Sederma, but also a part of the product Matrixyl 3000 by Sederma represents. The Rigin analogues include those in which the four amino acids rearranged and / or in which Rigin substituted a maximum of two amino acids are, for. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a pro or Arg and more preferably, the tetrapeptide includes both Pro as well as Arg, whereby their order and position can vary. The substituting amino acids can from every amino acid, which is defined below, can be selected. Especially preferred Rigin-based tetrapeptides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, wherein Xaa, Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids, which can substitute Gly, Xbb selected is made of Gln and the amino acids that Can substitute Gln, Xcc selected is Pro or Arg and the amino acids that substitute Pro and Arg can. The preferred amino acids, which can replace Gly, include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile).

The preferred amino acids, can replace the Gln, include a side chain with an amino group that is neutral pH (pH 6-7) predominantly uncharged, z. Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.

The preferred amino acids, can replace the Arg, include a side chain with a nitrogen atom which is at pH 6 mostly charged, e.g. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin.

When Rigin analogs according to the invention are Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred.

ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), eg Gln, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; be Preferably, however, the fourth amino acid is selected from the three aforementioned groups.

Further according to the invention preferred Peptides that stimulate collagen synthesis are the pentapeptide Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, especially preferred N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, referred to as Matrixyl available from the company Sederma is.

Further according to the invention preferred Hexapeptides that stimulate collagen synthesis are the hexapeptide Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, especially preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, sold under the name Biopeptide EL is available from Sederma. Further preferred according to the invention Peptides are the hexapeptides and / or their N-acylated derivatives, Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (Hexapeptide-3, e.g., peptides 02 from Vincience), acetyl-hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI), Myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (eg, Collasyn 614VG from TPI), hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience) and hexapeptides-10 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec).

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from retinoids. For the purposes of the present invention, the retinoids are retinol (vitamin A ₁ ), the C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid esters of retinol (= retinyl ester, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate), 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ), retinal and its Isomers, all-trans-retinoic acid, 9-cis-retinoic acid and 13-cis-retinoic acid (tretinoin), the esters of retinoic acid and other related substances (synthetic retinoids) are known, which are known for their diverse biological activity especially on growth and differentiation , as well as substances that have a specific biological effect by binding to the retinoid receptors RAR (retinoid acid receptor) and RXR (retinoid X receptor) and cause their activation. Synthetic retinoids are classified into three groups: non-aromatic (eg, isotretinoin), monoaromatic (eg, acitretin), and polyaromatic (so-called arotinoids, eg, tazarotene, which have a specific effect on single retinoid receptors). Particularly preferred retinoids according to the invention are retinol and the C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate.

Further according to the invention preferred Agents that stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from Products produced by fermentation of sugared black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Xylinum and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Wear Tea Ferment. A particularly preferred product is under the trade name Kombuchka of the company Sederma available (INCI name: Saccharomyces / xylinum / black tea ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethylcellulose).

Further according to the invention preferred Agents that stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from Olive leaf extracts (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). An invention particularly preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Oleanoline DPG available from Vincience. Another invention especially preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.

Olive leaf extracts can a high content of oleanolic acid and / or oleanol. Further preferred according to the invention Agents that stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from oleanolic and oleanol.

Further according to the invention preferred Agents that stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from Extracts from oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) kernel extract). A particularly preferred according to the invention Extract of oat grains is under the trade name Drago Beta Glucan (02/060800) by the Company Symrise available.

Further according to the invention preferred Agents that stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from liposome-encapsulated green tea extracts (Camellia sinensis). An inventively particularly preferred liposome encapsulated Green tea extract is under the trade name Greenselect Phytosome from the company Indena available.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the at least one vitamin B6 component, at least one active substance which stimulates collagen synthesis, in a total amount of 0.000001-5% by weight preferably 0.00001-2% by weight, more preferably 0.0001-1% by weight and most preferably 0.005-0.5% by weight, in each case based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.

• – mindestens einem Sojaproteinhydrolysat mit einem mittleren Molekulargewicht im Bereich von 1200–1800 Dalton, bevorzugt im Bereich von 1400–1700 Dalton,
• – mit Kokosfettsäuren N-acylierten und/oder veresterten Sojaproteinhydrolysaten in Form ihrer Alkalimetallsalze, bevorzugt in Form der Kaliumsalze,
• – Apfelkernextrakten (Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract),
• – Lotuskeim-Extrakten (Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract),
• – Extrakten aus Maiskörnern (Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract),
• – Rotweinextrakten,
• – Traubenkernextrakten (Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract), die bevorzugt aus der Chardonnay-Traube stammen,
• – Extrakten aus Schwarzen Holunderblüten (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract),
• – Mischungen aus mindestens einem Extrakt aus Kakaobohnen (Theobroma cacao) und mindestens einem Extrakt aus den Blättern der Pfefferminze (Mentha piperita),
• – Hydroxystilbenen und deren Estern, insbesondere Resveratrol und/oder Resveratrolmono-, -di- und -triphosphorsäureestern und deren Salzen,
• – Keratinhydrolysaten, insbesondere Wollkeratinhydrolysaten,
• – Conchiolinhydrolysaten,
• – dem Dipeptid L-Citrullyl-L-arginin und seinen mit mindestens einer, bevorzugt linearen, C₂-C₂₂-Fettsäure N-acylierten und/oder veresterten Derivaten, bevorzugt Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine,
• – Carnitin,
• – Hypotaurin,
• – L-Glutamylaminoethyl-indol,
• – Isoflavonoiden und Isoflavonoid-reichen Pflanzenextrakten,
• – Dihydroquercetin (= Taxifolin),
• – sowie Mischungen hiervon.

Further inventively particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that in addition to the at least one vitamin B6 component they contain at least one active substance which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts and which is selected from

• At least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 daltons,
• With coconut fatty acids N-acylated and / or esterified soy protein hydrolysates in the form of their alkali metal salts, preferably in the form of the potassium salts,
• - apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract),
• - lotus germ extracts (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract),
• Corn kernel extracts (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract),
• - red wine extracts,
• Grape seed extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract), which are preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape,
• Extracts of black elderflower (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract),
• Mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of peppermint leaves (Mentha piperita),
• Hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol and / or resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric acid esters and their salts,
• Keratin hydrolysates, in particular wool keratin hydrolysates,
• - Conchiolin hydrolyzates,
• The dipeptide L-citrullyl-L-arginine and its derivatives which are at least one, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid N-acylated and / or esterified, preferably acetyl citrullo-amido-arginine,
• - carnitine,
• - hypotaurine,
• L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole,
• Isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts,
• - dihydroquercetin (= taxifolin),
• - And mixtures thereof.

Further according to the invention preferred additional Agents that control the interaction between the extracellular matrix and increase the fibroblasts and / or improve are selected out with coconut fatty acids N-acylated and / or esterified soy protein hydrolysates in the form their alkali metal salts. Coconut fatty acids include predominantly Alkanecarboxylic acids with a number of carbon atoms of 8-18, especially caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic and Stearic acid. Preferred alkali metal salts are selected from lithium, sodium and potassium salts, with the potassium salts being particularly preferred.

One particularly according to the invention preferred, with coconut fatty acids N-acylated and / or esterified soy protein hydrolyzate in the form of the potassium salt is under the trade name Coccopolipeptide Soya is available from Sinerga.

Further according to the invention preferred Agents that control the interaction between the extracellular matrix and increase the fibroblasts and / or improve are selected from apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). Particularly according to the invention preferred apple seed extracts are under the trade name Ederline available from the company Seporga. The product contains Ederline Phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural Waxes. Ederline is once in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), on the other in fat-soluble Form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract) available.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the raw material Ederline in quantities of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and particularly preferably 3-5% by weight, in each case on the entire composition, included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one apple seed extract in amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.01-1.6% by weight and more preferably 0.03-1% by weight. %, in each case based on the content of Aktivsub in the entire composition.

Further according to the invention preferred Agents that control the interaction between the extracellular matrix and increase the fibroblasts and / or improve are selected from lotus germ extracts. A particularly preferred according to the invention lotus germ extract is under the trade name Lotus Germ Extract with the INCI name Water, Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract from the company Maruzen available.

Further according to the invention preferred Agents that control the interaction between the extracellular matrix and increase the fibroblasts and / or improve are selected from extracts of corn kernels (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract). An invention particularly preferred extract of corn kernels is under the trade name Deliner of the company Coletica available.

Further agents preferred according to the invention which increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from the dipeptide L-citrullyl-L-arginine and its with at least one, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid N -acylated and / or esterified derivatives, in particular the N-acetylated dipeptide derivative with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine. A particularly preferred preparation according to the invention of acetyl citrullamido arginine is available under the trade name Exsy-Algine from the company Exsymol.

Further according to the invention preferred Agents that control the interaction between the extracellular matrix and increase the fibroblasts and / or improve are selected from red wine extracts (Wine Extract). An invention particularly preferred red wine extract is under the trade name Sepivinol R available from Seppic.

Further according to the invention preferred Agents that control the interaction between the extracellular matrix and increase the fibroblasts and / or improve are selected from grape seed extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract), most preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape. Particularly according to the invention preferred grape seed extracts are under the trade name Herbalia Grape from Cognis or under the trade name Crodarom Chardonnay available from Croda.

Further according to the invention preferred Agents that control the interaction between the extracellular matrix and increase the fibroblasts and / or improve are selected from extracts of black elderflower (Sambucus nigra flower Extract). An invention particularly preferred extract of black elderflower is under the trade name Sambucus AO available from Alpaflor / Centerchem or Permcos.

Further according to the invention preferred Agents that control the interaction between the extracellular matrix and increase the fibroblasts and / or improve are selected from mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita). Particularly according to the invention preferred mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract from the leaves of Peppermint (Mentha piperita) - where aqueous glycolic or aqueous-glycolic Preparations of these extract mixtures are particularly preferred are - the trade names Caomint, Caophenol, Caobromine, Caospice and Caoorange available from Solabia.

Further according to the invention preferred Agents that control the interaction between the extracellular matrix and increase the fibroblasts and / or improve are selected from hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol (Trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol) and / or resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric acid esters and their salts. A resveratrol phosphoric acid ester which is particularly preferred according to the invention is Trisodium resveratrol triphosphates, e.g. Available from Ajinomoto.

Further according to the invention preferred Agents that control the interaction between the extracellular matrix and increase the fibroblasts and / or improve are selected from keratin hydrolysates, in particular wool keratin hydrolysates. One particularly according to the invention preferred wool keratin hydrolyzate is sold under the name Keratec Pep available from the company Croda. Keratec Pep has a smaller molecular weight fraction with a average molecular weight of 150 daltons and a larger molecular weight fraction with an average molecular weight of 1265 daltons.

Further inventively preferred agents that the interaction between the extracellular Ma Increasing and / or improving trix and the fibroblasts are selected from conchiolin hydrolysates. Conchiolin hydrolysates which are particularly preferred according to the invention are obtainable under the names Pearl Protein Extract and Pearl Protein Extract BG from Maruzen. In contrast to other pearl extracts available on the market, conchiolin hydrolyzates are not extracts of ground pearls, as are described, for example, in US Pat. B. under the name Crodarom Pearl with the INCI name Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Pearl Powder, Maris Sal (Sea Salt) are available from Croda. Conchiolin is a complex protein produced from the outer epithelium of molluscs, in particular pearl shells and various types of snails, and forms the very stable shell of these molluscs by incorporation of calcium carbonate crystals.

One further preferred according to the invention Active substance that controls the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts increased and / or improved, the peptide derivative is L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (available z. B. under the trade name Glistin by the company Exsymol).

Further according to the invention preferred Agents that control the interaction between the extracellular matrix and increase the fibroblasts and / or improve are selected from isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts.

To counting the isoflavonoids According to the invention, the isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides. Under isoflavones according to the invention substances to understand the hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyrans, wherein a hydrogenation in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton are present may be an oxidation to form a carbonyl group in the 4-position, and substitution substitute one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups understand is. Examples of preferred isoflavones according to the invention include Daidzein, Genistein, Prunetin, Biochanin, Orobol, Santal, Pratensein, Irigenin, Glycitein, Biochanin A and Formononetin. Especially preferred Isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.

In the invention preferred Isoflavone glycosides are the isoflavones via at least one hydroxy group linked glycosidically with at least one sugar. Mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galact uronic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly according to the invention preferred isoflavone glycosides are daidzin and genistin.

Farther is it preferred according to the invention if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular one herbal extract contained in the preparations. Such vegetable substance mixtures can in the expert more familiar For example, by squeezing or extracting from plants like soy, especially from soybean, red clover or chickpeas be won. Particular preference is given in the preparations according to the invention Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of soy-derived Extracts used, such as under the product name Lipobelle Soyaglycone (Mibelle AG Cosmetics), soy protein isolates SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline of Seporga. Ederline contains Phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one isoflavonoid in Total amounts of 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the isoflavonoid active substance in the whole cosmetic composition, contain.

One further preferred according to the invention Active substance that controls the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts increased and / or improved, is dihydroquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), which is also referred to as taxifolin.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active substance which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts, in a total amount of 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0, 00001-5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0001-2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005-0.5 or 1 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total Composition.

• – Monomeren und Oligomeren von Aminosäuren, N-C₂-C₂₄-Acylaminosäuren, den Estern und/oder den physiologisch verträglichen Metallsalzen dieser Substanzen, die nicht die Kollagensynthese stimulieren und nicht die Interaktion zwischen der extrazellulären Matrix und den Fibroblasten erhöhen und/oder verbessern,
• – DNA-Reparaturenzymen,
• – DNA- oder RNA-Oligonucleotiden,
• – Ubichinon und Ubichinol sowie deren Derivaten,
• – Silymarin,
• – Ectoin,
• – anorganischen und organischen UV-Filtersubstanzen,
• – selbstbräunenden,
• – hautberuhigenden,
• – feuchtigkeitsspendenden und
• – sebumregulierenden Wirkstoffen sowie
• – Mischungen dieser Wirkstoffe.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention for the topical treatment of the skin, which contain at least one vitamin B6 component in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, are characterized in that they furthermore comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from

• Monomers and oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, which do not stimulate collagen synthesis and do not increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts,
• - DNA repair enzymes,
• - DNA or RNA oligonucleotides,
• - ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives,
• - Silymarin,
• - Ectoin,
• Inorganic and organic UV filter substances,
• - self-tanning,
• - soothing,
• - moisturizing and
• - Sebumregulierenden agents and
• - Mixtures of these substances.

The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, which do not stimulate collagen synthesis and do not increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts, are preferably selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, Canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, Thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, taurine, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate.

The C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents. The physiologically acceptable salts of the inventively preferred active ingredients containing acid groups and can form salts are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, which do not stimulate collagen synthesis and do not increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts, are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra- , Penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides, as well as wheat protein hydrolysates, each of which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides according to the invention are Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val-Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-pal mitoyl-β-Ala-His. N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester (eg, calmosensins from Sederma), carnosine (β-Ala-His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. Particularly preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides according to the invention are Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (tripeptide-2), tripeptide-4 (e.g. ATPeptides, available via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ . N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met preferred according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for desquamation inhibition). Preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides according to the invention are Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (eg modulenes from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (cf. eg SNAP-7 from Centerchem), hexapeptide-2 (eg, Vincan's melanostatine-DM), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine-homophenylalanine-Trp ( Hexapeptide-7) and hexapeptide-11 (e.g., Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively particularly preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1).

According to the invention preferred DNA repair enzymes are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter further abbreviated to "T4N5". These Both enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes known. By DNA repair is by definition the cleavage or removal of UV-induced Pyrimidindimeren from the DNA to understand. photolyase is the short name for Deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3. A particularly efficient Photolyase is derived from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine Microorganism. The photolyase from A. nidulans is in technical In the meantime, relevant quantities have been extracted from E. coli. photolyase is dependent on light for activation.

The Enzyme T4 Endonuclease V is produced by the denV gene of bacteriophage T4 and heard to the phosphodiesterases, which hydrolyze the nucleic acids at the (5'-3 ') bond columns. T4N5 is also active without the influence of light.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosomes ^TM (INCI name: Water, lecithin, plankton extract) with a protein concentration of 0.25 to 2 mg / ml, liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. B. under the name Ultrasomes ^TM (INCI name: Water, lecithin, Micrococcus Luteus Extract) with a protein concentration of 2-5 mg / ml (measured by the Bradford assay) of AGI Dermatics, USA, available.

According to the invention, particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the topical treatment of the skin, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 daltons, b) at least a soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, and c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate, are characterized in that they further comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from Photosomes ^™ and / or Ultrasomes ^™ , in total amounts of 0.1-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-5.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably 1.0-4.0 wt .-%, based on the total agent included. According to the invention, particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the topical treatment of the skin, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 daltons, b) at least a soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, and c) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate, are characterized by further comprising at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from the monomers and oligomers of amino acids, NC C ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, which do not stimulate collagen synthesis and do not increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts, in total amounts of 0 , 00001-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001-5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005-3 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers and oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, which do not stimulate collagen synthesis and not the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Increase and / or improve fibroblasts, in supported form, in particular on finely divided, pulverulent substrates such as silica gel, in particular Aerosil types, furthermore talc, microsponges, modified starches and starch derivatives, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin derivatives, polymer particles of nylon, polyolefins, Polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, which may be crosslinked, polyesters, polyamides, polystyrenes, Teflon and silicones. A particularly preferred raw material of this type are the Vegetal Filling Spheres of Coletica.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions for topical treatment of the skin in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier contain at least one vitamin B6 component, are characterized that they also contain at least one cosmetic active substance, the selected is made of DNA oligonucleotides and RNA oligonucleotides.

According to the invention, an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine deriva ten), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in β-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine). 5'-triphosphate).

One particularly according to the invention the preferred oligonucleotide is the thymidine dinucleotide.

In the most preferred compositions of the invention the DNA oligonucleotides or RNA oligonucleotides in amounts of 0.00001-5 wt.%, preferably 0.0001-1.0 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.0005-0.5 wt .-%, based on the entire composition, included.

mit n = 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10.Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention for the topical treatment of the skin, which contain at least one vitamin B6 component in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, are characterized in that they additionally comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or its derivatives. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (II):

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Especially Preferably, the ubiquinone of formula (II) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10. According to the invention the ubiquinones, ubiquinols or their derivatives in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, used.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions for topical treatment of the skin in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier contain at least one vitamin B6 component, are characterized that they continue to contain silymarin. Silymarin according to the invention represents an earlier than uniform substance regarded active substance concentrate from the fruits of the Milk Thistle (Silybum marianum). The main constituents of Silymarin are Silybin (Silymarin I), Silychristin (Silymarin II) and Silydianin, belonging to the group of flavanolignans.

According to the invention is silymarin in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, used.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions for topical treatment of the skin in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier contain at least one vitamin B6 component, are characterized that they continue to contain Ectoin. Ectoin is the trivial name for 2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. Ectoin is according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt% and extraordinarily preferably 0.005 to 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition, included.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions for topical treatment of the skin in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier contain at least one vitamin B6 component, are characterized that they furthermore contain at least one inorganic and / or at least contain an organic UV filter substance.

The UV filter substances are liquid or crystalline at room temperature Substances which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, z. B. to give off heat again. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention. The organic UV filters preferred according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomeric and oligomeric 4,4-Diarylbutadiencarboxylic acid esters and -carbonsäureamiden, Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzalmalonsäureestern, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the above components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives are present in a pigmentary, ie undissolved form, for example in particle sizes of from 10 nm to 300 nm. According to the invention particularly oil-soluble UV filters preferred are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4 - (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylic acid-4 isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- 4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone, available under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF), 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester, to polymers g ebundene UV filters, z. B. 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane copolymer with the INCI name Dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS no. 207574-74-1, Parsol ^® SLX) , Triazine derivatives, such as. For example, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, available) under the name Tinosorb S from CIBA, dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, available) under the name Uvasorb HEB from Sigma 3V ^®, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl- 1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine (ethylhexyl triazone, Uvinul ^® T 150), 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl ] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6), 2,4-bis [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) -imino] - 6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS no. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ^® from 3V Sigma), the benzotriazole derivatives of 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- ( 2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) [Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H-benzotriazole-2 -yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical), 2- (2'-hydroxy-3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No .: 025973 -551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-octylphenyl) benzotr iazole (CAS no. 003147-75-9), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 2440-22-4), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6 - [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - ((trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxanes, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or Aniso triazine, available as Tinosorb S from CIBA ^®), 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- ( 4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-piopyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6 - (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl ) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [ 4- (ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrrole) 2-yl) -1,3,5-tri azine, 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis { [4- (2-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - [[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and mixtures of mentioned components.

preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, especially the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), for example under the trade name Eusolex 232 at Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro available at Symrise and the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP at Symrise available is, Sul fonsäurederivate of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts with the INCI name Terephthalydene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS.-No .: 90457-82-2, available as Mexoryl SX from Chimex).

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, for example, solutions of the UV-A filter 1- (4-terf.-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) in various UV-B Make filters. Therefore, in a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

According to the invention organic UV filter substances preferably in amounts of 0.1-30 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5-20 % By weight, extraordinary preferably 1.0-15 Wt .-% and more preferably 3.0-10 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. According to the invention inorganic UV filter substances preferably in amounts of 0.1-15 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5-10 % By weight, extraordinary preferably 1.0-5 Wt .-% and more preferably 2.0-4.0 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions for topical treatment of the skin in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier contain at least one vitamin B6 component, are characterized that they also contain at least one self-tanning agent. According to the invention, preferred self-tanning active ingredients are selected from dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose and 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.

According to the invention self-tanning Active ingredients in a total amount of 0.01-15 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-10 wt .-%, more preferably 1.0-5 Wt .-% and extraordinary preferably 2.0-4.0% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention for the topical treatment of the skin, which contain at least one vitamin B6 component in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, are characterized in that they furthermore comprise at least one skin-soothing active substance. Skin-soothing active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from allantoin, α-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, extracts from Centella asiatica, for example obtainable under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, glycyrrethic acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z. B. sold under the trade name Calmsphere by Soliance, mixtures of cereal waxes, extracts of shea butter and Argania Spinosa oil with the INCI name "Spent grain wax and Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil", as z B. under the trade name Stimu-Tex AS available from the company Pentapharm, extracts of vanilla Tahitensis, as they are available, for example, under the trade name Vanirea (INCI: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) from the company Solabia, Alginhydrolysaten, such they are obtainable, for example, from Codif under the trade name Phycosaccharides, in particular Phycosaccharide Al, extracts from Bacopa Monniera, as obtainable, for example, under the trade name Bacocalmine from Sederma, extracts from the Rooibos plant, as are obtainable, for example, under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE from Cosmetochem, yeast extracts, particularly preferably the commercial pro Drieline (INCI name "sorbitol, Yeast Extract"), available from Lanatech, the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, such as. B. under the trade name phytocohesins (INCI: Sodium Beta Sitosterylsulfate) are available from the company Vincience, aminodicarboxylic acids having a carbon chain length of 3-6 carbon atoms and their physiologically acceptable salts, preferably selected from aminomalonic acid, Amino-succinic acid (= aspartic acid), aminoglutaric acid and aminoadipic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts such as potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate, as well as any mixtures of these substances.

The skin soothing agents are preferred in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and extraordinarily preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, contain.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention for the topical treatment of the skin, which contain at least one vitamin B6 component in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, are characterized in that they furthermore contain at least one moisturizing active substance. According to the invention preferred moisturizing agents are selected from deoxy, especially before Trains t rhamnose and fucose, polysaccharides which comprise at least one deoxy-block, particularly preferably from the commercial products Fucogel ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-1) from Solabia, Rhamnosoft ^® (INCI designation Biosaccharide Gum-2) from Solabia, Fucogenol ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-3) from Solabia and Glycofilm (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4) from Solabia, further mixtures of the aforementioned polysaccharides, at least one deoxysugar block containing, for example, the mixture of biosaccharides Gum-2 and biosaccharides Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia, furthermore urea, (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^- ), glycosaminoglycans, particularly preferred Hyaluronic acid, dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin 6-sulfate.

The moisturizing agents are preferred in total amounts from 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and extraordinarily preferably 0.1 to 1 or 2 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition, included.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention for the topical treatment of the skin, which contain at least one vitamin B6 component in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, are characterized in that they additionally contain at least one sebum-regulating active substance. Sebum-regulating active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-decanediol, which are used as the triple combination according to the invention in the commercial product acnacidol PG from Vincience, furthermore from the commercial product Azeloglicina (potassium azeloyl diglycinate) from Sinerga, Extracts of Spiraea Ulmaria, as they are eg. As contained in the product Seboregul the company Silab, further (B. Sepicontrol ^® A5 z. By Seppic) is made of water- and oil-soluble extracts of Hamamelis, burdock and nettles, Zimtbaumextract, chrysanthemum extract (z. B. Laricyl ^® from Laboratoires Serobiologiques) and the active compound mixtures Asebiol ^® BT 2 (Laboratoires Serobiologiques, INCI: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, glycerol, panthenol, allantoin, biotin) and antiobesity factor ^® COS-218/2-A (Cosmetochem, INCI: Aqua, Cetyl-PCA, PEG-8 isolauryl thioether, PCA, cetyl alcohol).

The sebum-regulating agents are preferred in a total amount from 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and extraordinarily preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, contain.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions for topical treatment of the skin in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier at least one vitamin B6 component as well as at least further contain one of the aforementioned active ingredients, characterized that they continue to have at least one conditioning agent contain. Under conditioning agents according to the invention are those To understand substances that are based on keratinic materials, in particular on the skin, raise and the physical and sensory Properties of both the skin and the product as such improve. Conditioners smooth the top layer of the Skin and make it soft and supple. About the choice of conditioning agents (greasy - less greasy, fast or slow spreading, fast or slow in the skin is absorbed and so on) can the skin feeling of the whole Adjust product.

Conditioning agents according to the invention are selected from fatty substances, in particular vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil, lanolin and its derivatives, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons , Di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, z. As di-n-octyl ether and n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, fatty acids, especially linear and / or branched saturated, saturated and / or unsaturated C _8-30 fatty acids, fatty alcohols, particularly saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 4-30 carbon atoms, which are ethoxylated with 1-75, preferably 5-20 ethylene oxide units and / or may be propoxylated with 3-30, preferably 9-14 propylene oxide units, ester oils, ie esters of C _6-30 fatty acids with C _2-30 fatty alcohols, alkyl hydroxycarboxylates, dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate and diol esters such as Ethylene glycol dioleate or propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), symmetric, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, e.g. B. glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC), mono, - di- and tri fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, which, preferably with 1-10 7-9 ethylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, z. B. PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, waxes, especially insect waxes, plant waxes, fruit waxes, ozokerite, microwaxes, ceresin, paraffin waxes, triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C _16-30 fatty acids, eg. Hardened triglyceride fats, phospholipids, for example soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and silicone polymers which may, if desired, be cross-linked, e.g. As polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes with the earlier INCI name dimethicone copolyol, and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups, preferably substances with the INCI names Dimethiconol, Amodimethicone or Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.

The Use amount of fatty substances is preferably 0.1-99 % By weight, more preferably 2-50% by weight and extraordinary preferably 5-20 Wt .-%, each based on the total skin treatment agent.

Prefers are the cosmetic according to the invention or dermatological compositions in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, Water-in-oil emulsion, Multiple emulsion, especially an oil-in-water-in-oil or Water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, macroemulsion, Miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, a hydrogel, a lipogel, a mono- or multiphase solution, one Foam, a powder or a mixture with at least one polymer suitable as medical adhesive. The funds can also be in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm, presented become. Here, the carrier a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a Be mixture of such oils. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the agents according to the invention the agents are present as a microemulsion. Be under microemulsions in the context of the invention in addition to the thermodynamically stable microemulsions also understood the so-called "PIT" emulsions. These emulsions are systems with the 3 components Water, oil and emulsifier which are at room temperature as an oil-in-water emulsion. When heating These systems are formed in a certain temperature range (referred to as phase inversion temperature or "PIT") Microemulsions, resulting in further heating in water-in-oil emulsions convert. In the subsequent cooling down again O / W emulsions are formed, but also at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions with a average particle diameter below 400 nm and in particular of about 100-300 nm, are present. According to the invention, such Micro or "PIT" emulsions preferred be, which have a mean particle diameter of about 200 nm.

In the preferred embodiment as an emulsion, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one surface-active substance as emulsifier or dispersant. Examples of suitable emulsifiers are addition products of from 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear C ₈ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols, on C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids and on C ₈ -C ₁₅ -alkylphenols, C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto C ₃ -C ₆ -polyols, in particular to glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products of methylglucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, C ₈ -C ₂₂ - Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose are preferred as the sugar component, mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, eg. For example, the commercially available product Montanov ^® 68, addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, Parfialester of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, sterols (sterols), in particular cholesterol, lanosterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol, as well as mycosterols, phospholipids, especially glucose phospholipids, fatty acid ester of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol preferred Polyglycery-2-dipolyhydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH) and Polyglyceryl-3 -diisostearat (commercial product Lameform ^® TGI) as well as linear and branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The inventive compositions contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5-15 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 and below is included. Such preferred emulsifiers are in particular compounds of the general formula R ¹ -OR ² , in which R ^{1 is} a primary linear alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group having 20-30 C atoms, preferably a behenyl radical, and R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a group with the formula - (C _n H _2n O) _x -H with x = 1 or 2 and n = 2-4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group with 4-6 C atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups, preferably hydrogen. A particularly preferred compound R ¹ -OR ² is behenyl alcohol. Further preferred emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 and below are the adducts of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenic acid or erucic acid. Preferably, the monoesters of C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with polyols such as. As pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methyl glucose. Examples of such products are z. B. sorbitan monobehenate or pentaerythritol monoerucate. The presence of emulsifiers of the general formula R ¹ -OR ² can lead to lamellar structures in the emulsion, which can have particularly favorable effects on the restoration of the lamellar structure of the skin. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they are present in the form of a lamellar structures having oil-in-water emulsion.

Other suitable additives are thickeners, for. As natural and synthetic clays and phyllosilicates such as bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite or Laponite ^® , or anionic polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the acidic groups wholly or partly as sodium, potassium , Ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt may be present and wherein at least one nonionic monomer may be contained. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. These copolymers can also be present in crosslinked form. Suitable commercial products are Sepigel ^® 305 Simulgel® ^® 600, Simulgel® ^® NS and Simulgel® ^® EC SEPPIC. Further particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ^®. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C _3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydride and 2-20% of optionally substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated C _10-30 carboxylic acids, the copolymer having the can be crosslinked aforementioned crosslinking agents. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^® and Carbopol ^® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).

Suitable nonionic polymers include polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, for. B. the commercial products Mowiol ^® and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidones z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF) are sold.

Further preferred additives are antioxidants, preservatives, solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, adsorbents and fillers such as talc and Veegum ^®, perfume oils, pigments and dyes for coloring the composition, substances for adjusting the pH Value, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, pentane, isopentane, isobutane, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

Experimental determination the effect of vitamin B6 on the epidermis

Experimental Procedure

The aim of the study was to determine how various cosmetic agents, including vitamin B6, behave in terms of their skin-smoothing properties. The effect of two different emulsions, each containing 0.5% by weight of vitamin B6, was investigated using the contactless method FOITS (fast optical in vivo topometry of human skin). In total, a group of 40 subjects of all skin types tested the formulations in the half-side test with two applications per day for two weeks. The test procedure was carried out in "incomplete block design", which means that an untreated skin area (blank field) is considered as an additional product, and the skin relief was analyzed at the beginning of the study and at the end of the two-week poreword application as well as 12 hours after the last application.

The following table shows the mean differences to the initial value (n = 40) of the parameters "average roughness R _z " and "average roughness R _a ". The statistical evaluation based on the analysis of the differences in the Tukey test shows for both vitamin B6-containing emulsions a significant improvement of the surface profile compared to the control area.

Corneometer measurements confirmed Furthermore, that the creams used in the invention also a Significant improvement in skin moisture content compared to Control deal effected.

measurements on the whole skin model also showed that repeated over 6 days of application the invention used Creams cause a significant increase in the thickness of the epidermis led.

Composition used according to the invention (glycolipid cream with 0.5% by weight of vitamin B6, similar to the test cream based on the glycolipid cream)

Composition used according to the invention (alkylpolyglucoside base with 0.5% by weight of vitamin B6, similar to the alkylpolyglucoside-based test cream)

The The following formulation examples are intended to be the subject matter of the invention explain, without limiting it to it.

All Quantities are in wt .-%, based on the total composition.

1. Oil-in-water emulsions 1. Skin creams

2. Skin creams:

3rd day creams:

4. Day Creams with SPF:

5th day creams:

Skin creams based on a lipoprotein cream

2. Water-in-oil emulsion

3. Water-in-silicone emulsion

3. Cleaning Preparations 1. Facial Toner Preparations:

2. Cleansing Gel:

2-phase wellness massage fluid for body and scalp

Examples of compositions for soaking wipes

• Beispiel 1 stellt eine Tränkzusammensetzung für ein Lotions- und Make up-Entferner-Tuch dar.
• Beispiel 2 stellt eine Tränkzusammensetzung für ein Selbstbräuner-Tuch dar.
• Beispiel 3 stellt eine Tränkzusammensetzung für ein Sonnenschutz-Tuch dar.
• Beispiel 4 stellt eine Tränkzusammensetzung für ein Gesichtsreinigungs-Tuch dar.

Various viscose nonwovens were equipped with these impregnating compositions. Perforated, unperforated, dimpled, single-ply, two-ply and three-ply nonwovens were finished. The wipes were used both as wet wipes and as dry wipes (that is, after finishing, the wipes were dried to a residual water content less than 10 wt%, preferably less than 5 wt%, dried).

• Example 1 illustrates a lotion composition for a lotion and make-up remover wipe.
• Example 2 illustrates a soak composition for a self-tanner cloth.
• Example 3 illustrates a soak composition for a sunscreen cloth.
• Example 4 illustrates a soak composition for a facial cleansing wipe.

Skin lightening anti age matrix patch

List of raw materials used

Claims (16)

Cosmetic or dermatological composition for the topical treatment of the skin, comprising in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier at least one vitamin B6 component, characterized in that it further comprises at least one collagen synthesis stimulating active ingredient, which is selected from - at least one soy protein hydrolyzate with a middle Molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, - hydroxyproline which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residues, in particular dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, - the tripeptides Gly-His-Lys, Lys Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab, Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys-Val-Dap, Dap-Val-Lys and Gly-His -Arg, - the tetrapeptides Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (Rigin), Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro, Val-Val-Arg-Pro, Rigin analogs and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides, - the pentapeptide Lys-Thr-Thr- Lys-Ser, - the hexapeptides Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Ala-Asp-Leu-L ys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3), hexapeptide-4, hexapeptide-5, hexapeptide-6, hexapeptide-8, hexapeptide-9 and hexapeptide-10, - which has at least one, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ - Fatty acid N-acylated and / or esterified derivatives of said tri-, tetra-, penta- and hexapeptides, in particular N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys, N-palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, N-myristoyl-Gly-His -Arg, N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, acetyl-hexapeptide-3, myristoyl hexapeptide-5, myristoyl hexapeptide-8 and mixtures of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-glycine Gln-Pro-Arg, - Retinoids, in particular retinol and C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid esters of retinol, - Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, - Olive leaf extracts (Olea Europaea (Olive) leaf extract), - Oleanolic acid, - Oleanol, - Extracts from oat grains (Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract), - liposome-encapsulated green tea extracts (Camellia Sinensis), - creatine, - as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Cosmetic or dermatological composition for the topical treatment of the skin, comprising in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier at least one vitamin B6 component, characterized in that furthermore at least one active substance which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts, which is selected from - at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 daltons, - with coconut fatty acids N-acylated and / or esterified Soyaproteinhydrolysaten in the form of their alkali metal salts, preferably in Form of Potassium Salts, - Pear Kernel Extracts (Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), - Lotus Seed Extracts (Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract), - Corn Grain Extracts (Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract), - Red Wine Extracts, - Grape Seed Extracts (Vitis Vinifera ( Grape) Seed Extract), which is preferred from the Chardonnay grape, - Extracts of black elder flower (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract), - Blends of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita), - Hydroxystilbenen and their esters , in particular resveratrol and / or resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric acid esters and their salts, - keratin hydrolysates, in particular wool keratin hydrolysates, - conchiolin hydrolysates, - the dipeptide L-citrullyl-L-arginine and its at least one, preferably linear, C ₂ - C ₂₂ fatty acid N-acylated and / or esterified derivatives, preferably acetyl citrullamido arginine, - carnitine, - hypotaurine, - L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole, - isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts, - dihydroquercetin (= taxifolin), - and mixtures hereof. Cosmetic or dermatological composition for the topical treatment of the skin, comprising in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier at least one vitamin B6 component, characterized in that at least one further cosmetic active ingredient is present, selected from: a) monomers and oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, which do not stimulate the collagen synthesis and do not increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts, b) DNA repair enzymes, c) DNA or RNA oligonucleotides, d) ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, e) silymarin, f) ectoine, g) inorganic and organic UV filter substances, h) self-tanning active ingredients, i) skin-soothing active ingredients, j) moisturizing active substances, k) sebum-regulating active ingredients , l) and mixtures of these active ingredients a) -k). Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances which do not stimulate collagen synthesis and not the interaction between the extracellular matrix and increase and / or improve the fibroblasts are selected from - alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, hydroxylysine, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, Ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate, as well as mixtures of these substances. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 and lower of the general formula R ¹ -OR ² , in which R ^{1 is} a primary linear alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group having 20-30 C atoms, preferably a behenyl radical, and R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a group having the formula - (C _n H _2n O) _x -H where x = 1 or 2 and n = 2-4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group with 4 to 6 C atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups, preferably hydrogen, preferably behenyl alcohol. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one the preceding claims, characterized in that they are in the form of a lamellar structures having oil-in-water emulsion is present. Cosmetic or dermatological composition for topical treatment of the skin, containing in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a) at least one Vitamin B6 component, b) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 Dalton, c) at least one soy protein hydrolyzate having a middle Molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 daltons, preferably 800 Dalton, and d) at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one the claims 1-7, by characterized in that the at least one vitamin B6 component is selected from pyridoxine, pyridoxine hydrochloride, pyridoxine 5'-monophosphate, pyridoxal, Pyridoxal-5'-monophosphate, Pyridoxamine, pyridoxamine hydrochloride and pyridoxamine 5'-monophosphate and Mixtures of these components. Non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of at least one vitamin B6 component to increase the epidermis thickness and / or to strengthen and / or to tighten the epidermis. Non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of at least one vitamin B6 component for rebuilding and / or for restructuring and / or regeneration and / or strengthening and / or to streamline photodamaged and / or light aged and / or intrinsic and / or extrinsic aged skin. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one vitamin B6 component to increase skin firmness and / or to improve the mechanical stability of the skin and / or to increase skin elasticity and / or skin firmness and / or to improve skin softness and skin suppleness. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one vitamin B6 component for anti-wrinkle treatment for smoothing the skin and / or to reduce wrinkles, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or to improve the visual appearance of the skin. Non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of at least one vitamin B6 component for the improvement and / or to increase the skin moisture. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one vitamin B6 component for protection and / or prophylaxis from extrinsic skin aging and / or delaying extrinsic skin aging. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one vitamin B6 component for delaying intrinsic skin aging. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one vitamin B6 component according to any one of claims 9-15, characterized characterized in that the at least one vitamin B6 component is selected from pyridoxine, pyridoxine hydrochloride, pyridoxine 5'-monophosphate, pyridoxal, pyridoxal-5'-monophosphate, pyridoxamine, Pyridoxamine hydrochloride and pyridoxamine-5'-monophosphate and mixtures thereof Components.