WO2013092080A1

WO2013092080A1 - Personal hygiene composition with improved skin moisture

Info

Publication number: WO2013092080A1
Application number: PCT/EP2012/073194
Authority: WO
Inventors: Marianne Waldmann-Laue; Soraya Heinen
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2011-12-22
Filing date: 2012-11-21
Publication date: 2013-06-27
Also published as: DE102011089612A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition for cleansing and care of skin and hair based on a specific active ingredient combination for increasing skin moisture and for retaining skin moisture over 72 hours, to a process for cleansing and care of skin and hair comprising this active ingredient combination, and to the use of the composition for personal hygiene to achieve an increase in skin moisture lasting for up to 72 h. The invention therefore provides compositions for cleansing and especially for care of skin and hair, comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, a) 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid or physiologically compatible salts thereof, b) 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of lactic acid or physiologically compatible salts thereof, and c) at least one amino acid in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight.

Description

"Body care with improved skin hydration"

The invention relates to an agent for cleansing and care of skin and hair based on a special active ingredient combination for increasing skin hydration and maintaining skin hydration over 72 hours, a method for cleansing and care of skin and hair containing this combination of active ingredients and the use of the agent for the body care to achieve a lasting up to 72 h increase in skin moisture.

Skin and hair cleansers, such as those commercially available as liquid soaps, shampoos, shower baths, bubble baths, shower gels, and wash gels, must not only have good detergency, but should also be well tolerated by the skin and mucous membranes as well if used frequently, do not cause excessive defatting or dryness.

In modern skin and hair treatment products, one usually tries to combine all these requirements in one product. However, extensive studies have shown that, for example, shower baths are generally judged by the consumer either as a freshness-oriented product or as a nourishing product. In the case of fresh-oriented products, the freshness experience is judged positively, but skin-care aspects are missed by the consumer. On the other hand, the nourishing products provide the skin and hair with nourishing substances, but have the consumer's criticized disadvantages of lesser freshness and possibly lower foaming power, which is usually associated with the feeling of poorer cleaning performance.

The cleaning and care of dry skin is an even greater problem. Due to the usually high surfactant content especially the dry skin is even more stressed. Due to the high surfactant content of the dry skin lipids are largely removed. As a result, this skin type dries even more, becoming brittle, cracked and flaky. This appearance is evident both on the body and on the scalp. Usually, cleaning agents for use on dry skin are therefore added refatting substances. However, these in turn lead to a significantly weaker foam development of the products. This gives the consumer the impression that these detergents would not clean sufficiently.

Usually, it is attempted to counteract the further drying out of dry skin by adding lipid-replenishing or moisturizing agents, such as glycerine or water-binding hydrating substances, to the compositions. However, the keratolytic reaction of the dry skin caused by the surfactants is not prevented. One problem of today's commonly used oil-in-water emulsions (O / W emulsions) for cosmetic or pharmaceutical applications is that they may cause skin irritation, redness and / or too dry skin due to the short chain emulsifiers or surfactants contained therein ,

Surprisingly, an active ingredient combination for the cleansing of skin and hair has now been found, which increases the moisture balance of dry skin in a unique manner even with a single topical application for up to 72 hours, without the cleaning performance being lost when used in cleansing compositions.

A first subject of the invention are therefore agents for cleaning and in particular for the care of skin and hair, contained in a cosmetic carrier

a) 0.1 to 5.0 wt.% Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure or their physiologically acceptable salts, b) 0.1 to 5.0 wt.% Lactic acid or its physiologically acceptable salts and

c) at least one amino acid in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%.

The compositions according to the invention contain as the first compulsory component a 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and the physiologically tolerated salts thereof. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 to C ₄ alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the inventive compositions are preferably 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 3.0, and in particular 0.3 to 2.5 wt.%.

The second component of the active ingredient combination according to the invention is lactic acid or its physiologically tolerated salts. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 to C ₄ alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the inventive compositions are preferably 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 3.0, and in particular 0.3 to 2.5 wt.%.

The third essential ingredient of the active ingredient combination according to the invention is an amino acid. In the present application, the term amino acid is also understood as meaning a structure which contains only one permanent cationic group in the molecule, such as, for example, choline. Furthermore, this term also means substances such as carnitine or taurine, since Like the amino acids in biological systems, they naturally occur and in many cases behave like amino acids.

Amino acids of the invention are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine , Valine, betaine, ornithine, 1, 1-dimethyl-proline, hercynin (Να, Να, Να-trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), ergothionein (thionein, 2-mercapto-Na, Na, Na-trimethyl-L) histidinium betaine), carnitine, taurine and choline, and mixtures thereof. All types of isomers, such as diastereomers, enantiomers, isocyanate trans isomers, optical isomers, conformational isomers and racemates can be used according to the invention.

With particular preference are alanine, arginine, asparagine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine, betaine, ornithine, 1, 1-dimethyl-proline, carnitine, taurine, choline and their mixtures used.

Arginine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, proline, serine, betaine, carnitine, taurine and mixtures thereof are very particularly preferably used.

Arginine, glutamine, histidine, lysine, carnitine and taurine and mixtures thereof are most preferably used.

Arginine, glutamine, carnitine and taurine as well as the mixtures of arginine and taurine are most preferred,

Glutamine and taurine,

Glutamine and carnitine,

Arginine and glutamine,

Carnitine and taurine, as well as the mixtures

Arginine, carnitine and taurine,

Arginine, glutamine and carnitine,

Arginine, glutamine and taurine,

Glutamine, carnitine and taurine.

The compositions according to the invention contain the amino acids as described above in a total amount, based on the total agent, in an amount of from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 7.0% by weight, most preferably from 0, 1 to 5.0 wt .-%. If mixtures of at least two amino acids are used, then the same amounts apply as previously mentioned. In the case of mixtures, the individual amino acids are used in a ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5. The ratio is based on the weight ratio of the amino acids. When a mixture of three amino acids is used, these are each used in equal parts by weight.

The achieved effect of the composition according to the invention is at least comparable to the usual humectants known to the person skilled in the art, in particular urea and urea derivatives. However, urea and urea derivatives not only have the desired property of keeping skin and hair moisturized. They also have keratolytic Properties. These properties, with the exception of special fields of application, are usually undesirable in detergents, skin care and moisturizers. It is therefore preferred according to the invention if the agents according to the invention contain as moisturizing factor the combination according to the invention alone without any further addition of urea and urea derivatives.

Depending on the field of application, a wide range of cosmetic products are distinguished for cosmetic products, for example for skin care (bath preparations, skin washing and cleaning agents, skin care products, eye cosmetics, lip care products, nail care products, personal hygiene products, foot care products), those having a special effect (sunscreen agents, skin tanning agents, depigmenting agents). dentifrices, deodorants, antiperspirants, depilatories, shaving agents, fragrances), dentifrices and mouthwashes (dentifrices, oral care products, denture adhesives, denture adhesives) and hair care preparations (shampoos, hair care products, hair hardening agents, hair shaping agents, color change agents).

Cosmetic compositions preferred according to the invention are selected from the group of skin creams, skin lotions, deodorants, antiperspirants, shower gels, shower baths, dentifrices, mouthwashes, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dyeing shampoos, hair dyes, hair setting agents, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair drying lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.

Usually, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are formulated as solutions, emulsions or suspensions, an aqueous or an aqueous-alcoholic carrier being often preferred. Cosmetic agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention comprise at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 40% by weight, more preferably at least 50% by weight and in particular at least 60% by weight of water.

If the cosmetic agent is present in an aqueous-alcoholic carrier, this carrier preferably contains glycerol. Cosmetic agents of this embodiment preferably contain glycerol, in particular in an amount of 0.05 to 15.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferred agents according to the invention are skin treatment agents. Advantageously, skin treatment compositions according to the invention are in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water-in-oil or water-in-oil Water emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, a hydrogel, a lipogel, a mono- or multiphase solution, a foam, a powder or a mixture with at least one as a medical adhesive suitable polymer. The agents may also be presented in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm. in this connection For example, the carrier may be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil, or a mixture of such oils.

In a particular embodiment of the agents according to the invention, the agents are present as a microemulsion. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood as meaning, in addition to the thermodynamically stable microemulsions, also the so-called "PIT" emulsions These emulsions are systems containing the three components water, oil and emulsifier, which are oil-in at room temperature When these systems are heated, microemulsions are formed in a certain temperature range (referred to as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT") and, upon further heating, convert to water-in-oil emulsions But also at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions having a mean particle diameter of less than 400 nm and in particular of approximately 100 to 300 nm. According to the invention, such micro or "PIT" emulsions may be preferred. which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm.

Preferred optional ingredients of the cosmetic compositions of the invention can be defined by their function. Of course, some ingredients can also be multifunctional. Preferred ingredients of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be: absorbents, antimicrobial substances, binders, bleaches, chelating agents, emollients, emulsifiers / dispersants, emulsion stabilizers, depilatories and agents with hair growth inhibiting action, moisturizers, film formers, dyes, preservatives, corrosion inhibitors, skin cooling agents, pH Value regulator / buffer substances, surfactants / detergent substances, propellants, opacifiers, UV absorbers / light filter substances, denaturants, viscosity regulators. The aforementioned ingredients may, according to further preferred embodiments, be present as sole additive in agents preferred according to the invention.

In addition, combinations of the abovementioned ingredients may also be present in the agents preferred according to the invention.

For stable thickening of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, preference is given to using at least one thickening agent selected from at least one compound from the group which is formed

Homopolymer or copolymer of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS),

Homopolymer or copolymer of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid,

Polysaccharide, preferably hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose,

Hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, xanthan gum, guar gum, bentonite, optionally hydrophilic or hydrophobic on the surface modified.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contain at least one homopolymer or copolymer of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS), whose acid groups are partially or completely neutralized. Said polymer is in turn preferably crosslinked. The cosmetic agent according to the invention contains said polymers preferably in a total amount of 0.005 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.005 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0, 1 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the agent. This applies in particular to compositions according to the invention which contain the preferred preservative compositions of embodiments (A) to (X) (in particular combined with the preferred quantities of their ingredients in the cosmetic composition).

The partial neutralization of the acid groups results in the neutralized monomer unit, for example sodium 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonate or ammonium 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2 -propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonate, and the unneutralized, acidic monomer building block, 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid. Suitable neutralized monomers are all 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonate salts. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, ammonium, ethanolamine or amino acid salt. Particularly preferred are sodium 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonate and ammonium 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonate ,

A first preferred thickener is the crosslinked AMPS homopolymer ammonium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate. Such a crosslinked AMPS homopolymer is available, for example, from Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS.

Particularly preferred are, in addition to the crosslinked AMPS homopolymers, the crosslinked AMPS copolymers. Preferred crosslinked AMPS copolymers contain, besides AMPS, one, two or three different monomers which may be neutral or have a weak acid function. Of course, cross-linked AMPS copolymers are suitable, which in addition to AMPS have four or even more monomers.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the thickening crosslinked AMPS copolymer contains as the second monomer a neutral monomer selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl methacrylate, Acrylamide, alkylacrylamides such as methylacrylamide, ethylacrylamide, n-propylacrylamide and isopropylacrylamide, dialkylamides such as dimethylacrylamide, diethylacrylamide, di-n-propylacrylamide and diisopropylacrylamide, the ethoxylated derivatives of the aforementioned esters and amides, and N-vinylpyrrolidone. The neutral polyelectrolyte monomer is particularly preferably selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl methacrylate, the ethoxylated derivatives of said esters, acrylamide, dimethylacrylamide and N-vinylpyrrolidone. Extremely preferred neutral polyelectrolyte monomers are selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, acrylamide, dimethylacrylamide and vinylpyrrolidone. Outstandingly preferred crosslinked AMPS copolymers are selected from crosslinked copolymers consisting of AMPS and N-vinylpyrrolidone, AMPS and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, AMPS and acrylamide, AMPS and dimethylacrylamide.

Particularly preferred ethoxylated derivatives of the above-mentioned (meth) acrylic esters and (meth) acrylic amides are those of the following formula (AMPS-copol) in which R1 and R3, which are the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an approximately linear or branched alkyl group 1 to 6 carbon atoms; Y is O or NH; R 2 is a hydrocarbon group having 6 to 50 carbon atoms; and x is the number of moles of the alkylene oxide and is in the range from 1 to 50, preferably 8 to 20,

(AMPS Copol).

A preferred crosslinked ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer is available from Clariant under the name Aristoflex AVC.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the thickening crosslinked AMPS copolymer as the second monomer contains a weak acid monomer selected from among acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid, the weak acid being partially or completely neutralized, and as a salt , is preferably present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, ethanolamine or amino acid salt, particularly preferably as the sodium salt. Other highly preferred crosslinked AMPS copolymers are selected from crosslinked copolymers consisting of AMPS and sodium acrylate, AMPS and sodium methacrylate, AMPS and acrylamide and sodium acrylate, AMPS and acrylamide, and sodium acrylate and acrylic acid.

A preferred cross-linked sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer is available from Seppic under the designation Simulgel EPG.

Other preferred crosslinked copolymers with 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) are available commercially, e.g. B. under the trade names Simulge NS, Simulgel ^® l-NS 100, Simulge FL, Sepiplus ^® S, Simulgel ^® 600, Sepiplus 400, Simulgel ^® SMS 88, Simulgel ^® EG and Simulgel ^® EPG from Seppic.

In addition to the above-mentioned AMPS polymers or in their place, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain at least one homopolymer or copolymer of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid whose acid groups are partially or completely neutralized are. Particular preference is given to homopolymers of acrylic acid. Such polymers have the INCI name carbomer.

The cosmetic agent according to the invention contains said polymers, in particular homopolymers of acrylic acid, preferably in a total amount of 0.005 to 5.0% by weight, in particular 0.005 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight. , in each case based on the weight of the agent. This applies in particular to compositions according to the invention which contain the preferred preservative compositions of embodiments (A) to (X) (in particular combined with the preferred quantities of their ingredients in the cosmetic composition).

In addition to the above-mentioned AMPS polymers or in their place, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain at least one polysaccharide, preferably selected from at least one compound of the group formed, in addition to or in place of the homo- / copolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid is selected from xanthan gum, guar gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.

The cosmetic agent according to the invention contains said polysaccharides, in particular the preferred representatives, preferably in a total amount of 0.005 to 5.0% by weight, in particular 0.005 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight. , in each case based on the weight of the agent.

The compositions according to the invention particularly preferably comprise at least one fatty substance as fatty substance. Under fatty substances to understand fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components to understand.

The fatty substances are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in an amount of 5.0 to 50.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 8.0 to 30.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.

Suitable fatty substances are preferably linear, saturated primary alcohols having 14-30 carbon atoms, fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, triglycerides, waxes, fatty acid esters, natural oils, silicones.

As a major component of the fat body, the agents of the invention preferably contain at least one linear, saturated primary alcohol having 14-30 carbon atoms.

Linear, saturated primary alcohols having 14 to 30 carbon atoms which are preferred according to the invention are selected from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, 12-hydroxystearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol (arachyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol and myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, in particular technical mixtures such as arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol). Particularly preferred Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are mixtures of cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

The abovementioned alcohols are also referred to below synonymously as "fatty alcohols".

Preferred cosmetic agents contain at least one linear, saturated primary alcohol having 14-30 carbon atoms in a total amount of 0.5 to 10.0 wt.%, Preferably 1.0 to 8.0 wt.%, In each case based on the total weight of the agent.

As further fatty substances, the agents according to the invention may preferably contain at least one fatty acid having 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

The fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount of fatty acid used is preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the amount is 0.5 to 10 wt.%, With very particularly advantageous amounts of 1 to 5 wt.% Are.

The natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention may be solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies are preferably:

vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. However, other triglyceride oils are also suitable, such as the liquid fractions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils, in particular caprylic / capric triglyceride. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether , Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprinatV caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ^® IPP), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,

Propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol.

If the agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one fatty substance as fat body, it in turn preferably additionally contains at least one emulsifier.

Emulsifiers are preferably contained in the compositions of this embodiment in an amount of 0.25 to 10.0 wt .-%. The emulsifier used is preferably at least one compound selected from one or more of the following groups:

(1) addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;

(2) C 12/18 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;

(3) glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products;

(4) alkyl and alkenyl, mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and their ethoxylated analogs;

(5) addition products of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;

(6) polyol and especially polyglycerol esters, e.g. Polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxy stearate or polyglycerol dimerate. Also suitable are mixtures of compounds of several of these classes of substances;

(7) addition products of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;

(8) partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated (C ₆ to C 22) fatty acids, ricinoleic acid or 12-hydroxystearic acid with glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol) or alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, Butylglucoside, lauryl glucoside) as well as polyglucosides (eg cellulose);

(9) trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates;

(10) polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

(1 1) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and / or mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol and

(12) lecithin,

(13) N-acylamino acids and / or N-acylated proteins each having a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) -acyl radical, (14) (C-I2 to C ₂ o) -alkyl phosphate (preferably their potassium salt), in particular in combination with emulsifiers from group (8).

As a particularly preferred emulsifier, preferred means according to the invention having said fatty body preferably comprise at least one alkyl glycoside having a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 14-30 carbon atoms and having the general formula (E4-II)

R ⁴ 0- [G] _p (E4-II)

in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 14 to 30, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms (in particular glucose or xylose) and p is a number from 1 to 10. These inventively preferred agents again preferably comprise the preservative compositions of the preferred embodiments (A) to (X) of the first subject of the invention, in particular combined with the preferred amounts of their ingredients in the cosmetic composition.

The compounds of the above formula (E4-II) can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, such as, in particular, fructose, glucose and xylose, preferably glucose (so-called APG) or xylose (so-called APX), with glucose being the most preferred sugar residue is. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be an integer and here Above all, the values p = 1 to 6 can assume that the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetical variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are preferred whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7, and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 14-30, preferably 16-22 carbon atoms. Typical examples are myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof.

The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides are particularly preferably used as a mixture with the corresponding alcohol cut used for the alkylation. These are so-called self-emulsifying mixtures of long-chain fatty alcohols and corresponding alkylated glycosides. Preference is given to using mixtures which are available under the names Montanov 68, Montanov 202, Montanov L and Montanov 82 from Seppic. These mixtures contain about 15% by weight of alkyl glucoside and about 85% by weight of fatty alcohols. Even- but the alkyl and Alkenyloligoglycoside can also be used in pure form, for. For example, the cetearyl glucoside, available, for example, under the name Tego Care CG 90. Preferred such mixtures are (according to the INCI name): C14-22 alcohols, C12-20 alkyl glucosides (Montanov L), arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl Glucosides (Montanov 202), Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucosides (Montanov 68, Emulgade PL 68/50), Cetearyl Alcohol, Coco Glucosides (Montanov 82).

Further preferred lipid-containing, cosmetic compositions contain, in addition to the active ingredient composition according to the invention of the first subject of the invention as emulsifier, a mixture of

0.2 to 2.0 wt .-% of at least one salt of a C ₂ -2O-alkyl phosphate, and in particular a salt of cetyl phosphate, as anionic oil-in-water emulsifier,

0, 1 - 1, 7 wt .-% of at least one to C _14. ₂ o-mono- or diacylglycerides, preferably at least one Ci6-i8-mono- or diacylglyceride, particularly preferably selected from hardened palm oil glycerides, can be formulated and stored particularly stable in storage.

The at least one salt of a C ₂ -2O-alkyl phosphate is present in the inventive compositions in a total amount from 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.3 - 1. 8 wt .-%, more preferably 1, 0 - 1, 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition. Preferred compositions according to the invention contain at least one salt of cetyl phosphate in a total amount of 0.2-2.0% by weight, preferably 0.3-1.8% by weight, more preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight. %, in each case based on the total weight of the composition. Further preferred compositions according to the invention comprise a mixture of diphenylmonocetyl phosphate and potassium dicetyl phosphate in a total amount of 0.2-2.0% by weight, preferably 0.3-1.8% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0-0.1 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.

C ₄ preferred according to the invention. ₂ o-mono- or diacylglycerides are selected from monomyristoylglyceride, monopalmitoylglyceride, monostearoylglyceride, monoarachinoylglyceride, dimyristoylglyceride, dipalmitoylglyceride, distearoylglyceride and diarachinoylglyceride and mixtures thereof. Further inventively preferred C _14th ₂ o-Mono- or Diacylgly- ceridmischungen are glycerides cured, that is, hydrogenated, preferably fully hydrogenated, fatty acids of natural oils. Hardened palm oil glycerides are particularly preferred according to the invention.

The at least one Ci ₄ . ₂₀ -Mono- or diacylglyceride is in the compositions of the invention in a total amount of 0, 1-1, 7 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 1, 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.9 - 1, 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferred compositions according to the invention comprise at least one substance selected from monomyristoylglyceride, monopalmitoylglyceride, monostearoylglyceride, monoarachinoylglyceride, dimyristoylglyceride, dipalmitoylglyceride, distearoylglyceride and diarachinoylglyceride, as well as mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 0.1-1.7% by weight, preferably 0.2 - 1, 4 parts by weight %, particularly preferably 0.9-1.1% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

Further preferred compositions of the invention contain as C ₁₄ . ₂ o-mono- or diacylglyceride mixture hardened palm oil glycerides in a total amount of 0, 1 - 1, 7 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 - 1, 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.9 - 1, 1 wt. %, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

Further preferred compositions of the invention contain at least one salt of a C ₂ -2O-alkyl phosphate and the at least one Ci. ₄ ₂ o-mono- or diacylglyceride in a weight ratio of 2/3 to 3/2, preferably 1/1 to 3/2, particularly preferably 6/5 to 3/2.

A particularly preferred O / W emulsifier system according to the invention comprising a mixture of dipotassium monocetyl phosphate and potassium dicetyl phosphate with hardened palmolglycerides is available as a commercial product "Emulsiphos 677660" (INCI: Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides) from Symrise.

A second particularly preferred embodiment of the invention is therefore characterized in that it comprises:

a) from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid or its physiologically tolerable salts, b) from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of lactic acid or its physiologically tolerated salts,

c) at least one amino acid in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, d) at least one salt of a C ₁₂ -2o-alkyl phosphate and

e) at least one Ci ₄ . ₂ o-mono- or diacylglyceride.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Such oil-in-water emulsions may, also preferably, be stabilized by at least one of the abovementioned hydrogel formers.

The agents according to the invention, preferably liquid agents, may also be multi-phase, the phases may, for. B. horizontally, so one above the other, or vertically, so next to each other, be arranged. It may also be a disperse system in which e.g. the solid constituents are distributed inhomogeneously in the liquid matrix, so that such a dispersed system should be shaken before use.

Preferred optional ingredients of the cosmetic compositions of the invention can be defined by their function. Of course, some ingredients can also be multifunctional.

Preferred ingredients of the compositions according to the invention, preferably cosmetic products, can be: a) absorbents

These preferably have the task of absorbing water and / or oil-soluble dissolved or finely divided substances.

b) antimicrobials

These may be added to the products to generally reduce the activities of microorganisms, particularly microorganisms responsible, for example, for the formation of acne or body odor. These germs include, among others, various species from the group of staphylococci, the group of Corynebacteria, anaerococci and micrococci, especially Corynebacterium acnes, Corynebacterium granulosum, Propionibacterium acnes, Propionibacterium avidum and Propionibacterium granulosum, Staphylococcus hominis, Anerococcus octavius, Corynebacterium tub., Corynebacterium xerosis, Coynebacterium jekelium, Staphyllococcus epidermis. Preferred antimicrobial or antimicrobial agents according to the invention are in particular organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a number of plant extracts and zinc compounds. These include triclosan, chlorhexidine and chlorhexidine gluconate, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, bromochlorophene, dichlorophen, chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, hexachlorophene, dichloro-m-xylenol, dequalinium chloride, domiphenbromide, ammonium phenolsulfonate, benzalkonium halides, benzalkonium cetyl phosphate, benzalkonium saccharinates, Benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, laurylpyridinium chloride, laurylisoquinolinium bromide, methylbenzedonium chloride. Furthermore, phenol, phenoxyethanol, disodium dihydroxyethylsulfosuccinylundecylenate, sodium bicarbonate, zinc lactate, sodium phenolsulfonate and zinc phenolsulfonate, ketoglutaric acid, terpene alcohols such as. As farnesol, chlorophyllin copper complexes, a-monoalkyl glycerol ether with a branched or linear saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₆ - C ₂₂ alkyl, particularly preferably a- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ether, commercially available as Sensiva ^® SC 50 (ex Schülke & Mayr), carboxylic acid esters of mono-, di- and triglycerol (eg glycerol monolaurate, diglycerol monocaprinate), lantibiotics and plant extracts (eg green tea and components of lime blossom oil). Antibacterial substances especially for deodorants can be selected from the group of linear, branched and unbranched, but also aromatic alcohols and acids, for example phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, benzylheptanol and others. Further preferred antimicrobial active ingredients are selected from so-called prebiotically active components, which according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those components which inhibit only or at least predominantly the odor or acne-forming germs of the skin microflora, but not the desired, that is, the non-odor-causing or not -Anmaking germs that belong to a healthy skin microflora. Explicitly here are the active ingredients, which are disclosed in the published patent applications DE 10333245 and DE 10 2004 01 1 968 as prebiotically effective, also included; these include conifer extracts, in particular from the group of Pinaceae, and plant extracts from the group of Sapindaceae, Aralia ceae, Lamiaceae and Saxifragaceae, in particular extracts of Picea spp., Paullinia sp., Panax sp., Lamium album or Ribes nigrum and mixtures of these substances,

antiperspirants

These are preferably used in antiperspirants and reduce the sweat delivery. Antiperspirant active ingredients have a pore-astringent action and are therefore frequently used in skin treatment preparations for sebum suppression. The amounts used for sebum suppression are usually lower than the amounts used for antiperspirancy and are in the range of 0, 1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 2 to 3 wt .-%. For antiperspirant products, antiperspirant products contain from 2 to 25% by weight of the antiperspirant active ingredient for a sufficient sweat-reducing effect. For antiperspirant aerosols, the amount is based on the propellant composition. Preferred agents according to the invention comprise at least one antiperspirant astringent active ingredient selected from the water-soluble astringent inorganic and organic salts of aluminum, zirconium and zinc or any desired mixtures of these salts. Particularly preferred antiperspirant active ingredients are selected from the aluminum chlorohydrates, in particular the aluminum chlorohydrates having the general formula [Al ₂ (OH) ₅ Cl ^■ 2-3 H ₂ O] _n , which may be present in non-activated or in activated (depolymerized) form , furthermore aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex propylene glycol (PG) or polyethylene glycol (PEG), aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PG or - PEG, aluminum PG-dichlorhydrex or aluminum PEG-dichlorhydrex, aluminum hydroxide, furthermore selected from the aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates, such as aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate , Aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum-zirconium-chlorohydrate-glycine complexes such as aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, potassium aluminum sulfate (KAl (S0 ₄ ) ₂ ^■ 12 H ₂ O, alum), aluminum undecylenoyl collagen amino acid, sodium aluminum lactate + aluminum sulfate, sodium aluminum chlorhydroxylactate, aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chloride, the complexes of zinc and sodium salts, the complexes of lanthanum and cerium, the aluminum salts of lipoamino acids, aluminum sulfate, aluminum lactate, aluminum chlorohydrate allantoinate, sodium aluminum chlorhydroxylactate , Zinc chloride, zinc sulfocarbolate, zinc sulfate and zirconium chlorohydrate. According to the invention, water solubility is understood as meaning a solubility of at least 5% by weight at 20 ° C., that is to say amounts of at least 5 g of the antiperspirant active are soluble in 95 g of water at 20 ° C. The antiperspirant active ingredients can be used as an aqueous solution. Preferred anhydrous agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one activated aluminum chlorohydrate, preferably a raw material from the ^REACH® series from Summit-Reheis. Optionally, the antiperspirant effect may be enhanced by the addition of further ions such as calcium salts. Anti-foaming agents

These may be added, e.g. to eliminate foam during manufacture or to reduce the tendency of finished products to over-foam. binder

They ensure e.g. the cohesion of powdered and powdered cosmetic products. Substances of biological origin

These are e.g. certain plant ingredients, e.g. Green tea extract. They are intended to impart certain desired properties to a product which are related to the corresponding biological material, or to further improve existing properties or to suppress undesirable properties or reduce them as much as possible.

bleach

These may e.g. serve to lighten the color of the hair or skin.

chelating agent

These are e.g. added to cosmetic agents to form complexes with metal ions, so as to improve, for example, the storage stability of the compositions of the invention. Particularly preferred as the complex-forming substance is ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its sodium salts, such as those available under the trade name Trilon B from BASF, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and its sodium salts, β-alaninediacetic acid and its salts and phosphonic acids and their salts. The at least one complex-forming substance is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.01-0.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.08-0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

Deodorant actives,

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one deodorant active ingredient. This may preferably be selected from the already mentioned antimicrobial agents. Furthermore, it may be preferable to use an active substance which inhibits the enzymes responsible for the sweat decomposition, in particular the arylsulfatase, β-glucuronidase, aminoacylase, cystathion β-lyase, esterases, lipases and / or lipoxygenase, e.g. B. trialkylcitric acid, in particular triethyl citrate, or zinc glycinate. Further inhibitor substances of the enzymes and germs responsible for the sweat decomposition are disclosed in WO 03/039505 A2, WO 01/99376 A2, EP 1430879 A2, EP 1428520 A2, EP 1738803 A1, EP 1576946 A1 and DE 10216368 A1. Further preferred deodorant active ingredients are odor absorbers and deodorizing ion exchangers. Silicates serve as odor absorbers, which at the same time advantageously support the rheological properties of the composition according to the invention. The silicates which are particularly advantageous according to the invention include, in particular, phyllosilicates and, among these, in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, mit, beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite and talcum. Further advantageous Odor absorbers are, for example, zeolites, Zinkricinoleat, cyclodextrins, certain metal oxides, such as. As alumina, and chlorophyll. They are preferably used in an amount of 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 0.5-7% by weight and most preferably 1-5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

emulsion stabilizers

These can further support the process of emulsification (see emulsifiers) and in this way further improve the stability and durability of the product.

moisturizer

These can contribute to the maintenance or restoration of skin moisture and counteract the drying of the skin. In addition to the emollients mentioned above, water-soluble polyvalent C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanols having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or water-soluble polyethylene glycols containing 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof are suitable for this purpose. Preferably, these components are selected from 1, 2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1, 2-butylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol and

1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1, 2-pentanediol and 1, 5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1, 6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, dipropylene Glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being preferred. Also sugars and certain sugar derivatives such as fucose, rhamnose, fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose and xylose are suitable according to the invention. Preferred skin care agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units is selected from

1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol,

1,3-Butylene glycol and 1, 4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1, 2-pentanediol and

1.5- pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1, 6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances , Particularly preferred skin treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units in total in amounts of 3 to 30% by weight. %, preferably 8 to 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 to 18 wt .-%, in each case based on the total composition is included.

film formers

These are capable of producing a protective, stabilizing film on surfaces, preferably skin, hair or nails. With regard to the agents according to the invention, this film preferably has a moisture-storing effect. Preferred moisture storage chernde film formers are selected from polysaccharides which contain at least one deoxy-block, particularly preferably from the commercial products Fucogel ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-1) from Solabia, Rhamnosoft ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2) from Solabia, Fucogenol ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-3) of Solabia and Glycofilm ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4) of Solabia, furthermore mixtures of the aforementioned polysaccharides containing at least one deoxy sugar building block, for example the mixture of biosaccharides Gum-2 and biosaccharides Gum -3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia, glycosaminoglycans, more preferably hyaluronic acid, dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin 6-sulfate. dyes

These are added to cosmetic products to produce a product color, preservatives

These are added to cosmetic products to protect them from the harmful effects of microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, yeasts) and thus to prevent their spoilage. Many preservatives inevitably have deodorizing properties, as they also have antimicrobial effects against odor causing bacteria, so that some substances belong to both groups. Benzoic acid and its derivatives (for example propyl, phenyl and butyl benzoate, ammonium, sodium, potassium and magnesium benzoate), propionic acid and derivatives thereof (for example ammonium, sodium and potassium) are particularly suitable as preservatives for cosmetics. , Potassium and magnesium propionate), salicylic acid and its derivatives (eg sodium, potassium and magnesium salicylate), 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its esters and alkali metal salts (eg methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl). , Butyl, isobutyl, isodecyl, phenyl, phenoxyethyl and benzylparaben, hexamidineparaben and -diparaben, sodium and potassiumparaben, sodium and potassium methylparaben, potassiumbutylparaben, sodium and potassiumpropylparaben), alcohols and their salts (eg, ethanol, propanol , Isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, phenol, potassium phenolate, phenoxyethanol, phenoxyisopropanol, o-phenylphenol), guaiacol and its derivatives, chlorhexidine and its derivatives (eg chlorhexidine diacetate, digluconate, and dihydroc hlorid), hydantoin and its derivatives (e.g. DEDM and DMDM hydantoin, DEDM-hydantoindilaurate), urea and urea derivatives (eg diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea), ferulic acid and its derivatives (eg ethyl ferulate), sorbic acid and its derivatives (eg isopropyl sorbate, TEA sorbate, sodium, potassium, and magnesium sorbate), isothiazole and oxazole derivatives (e.g., methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, dimethyloxazolidine), quaternary ammonium compounds (e.g., Polyquaternium-42, Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quater -nium-15), carbamates (eg, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate), formaldehyde and sodium formate, glutaraldehyde, glyoxal, hexamidine, dehydroacetic acid, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, isopropylcresol, methyldibromo-glutaronitrile, polyaminopropyl biguanide, sodium hydroxymethyl glycinate , Sodium phenolsulfonate, triclocarban, triclosan, zinc pyrithione and various peptide antibiotics (eg nisin). Preservatives preferred according to the invention are Phenoxyethanol, the esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and Isobutylparaben and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate and Methylisothiazolinone. The amount of preservatives in the preferred compositions according to the invention is 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.01-5% by weight, and more preferably 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Corrosion inhibitors

These may e.g. serve to prevent corrosion of the package, e.g. of a cosmetic agent or even the corrosion of parts that otherwise come into contact with the agent.

Skin cooling agents

Compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention furthermore preferably contain at least one skin-cooling active substance. Skin-cooling active ingredients suitable according to the invention are, for example, menthol, isopulegol and menthol derivatives, eg. Menthyl lactate, menthyl glycolate, menthyl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, menthyl methyl ether, menthoxypropanediol, menthone glycerol acetal (9-methyl-6- (1-methylethyl) -1, 4-dioxaspiro (4.5) decane-2-methanol), monomethyl succinate and 2-hydroxymethyl-3,5 , 5-trimethylcyclohexanol. As skin-cooling active ingredients preferably menthol, isopulegol, menthyl lactate, menthoxypropanediol and menthylpyrrolidone carboxylic acid and mixtures of these substances, in particular mixtures of menthol and menthyl lactate, menthol, Mentholglycolat and menthyl lactate, menthol and menthoxypropanediol or menthol, isopulegol or the commercial product Frescolat ^® Ice are (Symrise). It is particularly preferred according to the invention for at least one skin-cooling active substance to be present in a total amount of 0.01-2% by weight, more preferably 0.02-0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.05-0.2% by weight, each based on the total weight of the composition.

pH regulators / buffers

These may e.g. in cosmetics to adjust or stabilize a desired pH.

Surfactants / wash-active substances

These are surface-active compounds, the cleaning purposes or the better

Washability of the compositions of the invention are used.

propellants

These are gaseous substances with which the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be placed under pressure in pressure-resistant containers in order to produce the contents when the pressure is relieved. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as a propellant-driven aerosol, contain at least one propellant. Preferred propellants (propellants) are propane, propene, n-butane, isobutane, isobutene, n-pentane, pentene, isopentane, isopentene, methane, ethane, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, air, oxygen, nitrous oxide, 1, 1, 1, 3-tetrafluoroethane, heptafluoro-n-propane, perfluoro- ethane, monochlorodifluoromethane, 1,1-difluoroethane, both individually and in combination. Also hydrophilic propellants, such. As carbon dioxide, can be used advantageously in the context of the present invention, when the proportion of hydrophilic gases is selected low and lipophilic propellant gas (eg., Propane / butane) is present in excess. Particularly preferred are propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures of these propellants. It has been found that the use of n-butane as the only propellant gas according to the invention can be particularly preferred. The amount of blowing agent is preferably 10 to 95% by weight, more preferably 20 to 90% by weight and most preferably 40 to 85% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation consisting of the composition according to the invention and the blowing agent.

t) clouding agent

These may preferably be added to transparent or translucent products to make them more impervious to visible light or near-infrared radiation. This may be useful for protecting the photocatalytic agent during storage in transparent or translucent containers, where appropriate; the layer thickness later applied to the skin is so low that the addition of a clouding agent does not affect the effectiveness of the photocatalytic agent.

u) UV absorber / light filter substances

They are able to filter certain UV rays and in this way can be used e.g. Protect the skin from premature light-induced aging and sunburn. UV absorbers can also be used in small quantities as product protection.

v) denaturant

These are added to cosmetic products containing ethanol to make them inedible,

w) viscosity regulator

These are able to increase or decrease the viscosity of a product.

The aforementioned ingredients may be contained according to further preferred embodiments as the sole additive or in any combination in the inventive compositions.

In the following, preferred ingredients of the inventive compositions are described in more detail.

Anionic surfactants are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention. Preferred anionic surfactants are the fatty acid soaps having a carbon chain of 12 to 30 carbon atoms. If the agent according to the invention is not formulated as a deodorant, further anionic surfactants may optionally be used. The anionic surfactants used are then, for example, those of the sulfonate and sulfates type. Suitable surfactants of the sulfonate type are preferably C ₉ .i ₃ -alkylbenzenesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, ie mixtures of alkene and hydroxyalkanesulfonates and also disulfonates, such as, for example, from Ci2-i8 onoolefinen with terminal or internal double bond by sulfonation with gaseous sulfur trioxide and subsequent alkaline or acidic hydrolysis of the sulfonation obtained, into consideration. Also suitable are alkanesulfonates which are obtained from C ₁₂ -18-alkanes, for example by sulfochlorination or sulfoxidation with subsequent hydrolysis or neutralization. Likewise, the esters of α-sulfo fatty acids (ester sulfonates), for example the α-sulfonated methyl esters of hydrogenated coconut, palm kernel or tallow fatty acids are suitable.

In addition to an unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, acyclic or cyclic, optionally alkoxylated alkyl radical, preferred anionic surfactants have 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 20, in particular 8 to 18, particularly preferably 10 to 16, most preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms, two or more anionic, in particular two, acid groups, preferably carboxylate, sulfonate and / or sulfate groups, in particular a carboxylate and a sulfate group on. Examples of these compounds are the alpha sulfo fatty acid salts, the acyl glutamates, the monoglyceride disulfates and the alkyl ethers of the glycerol disulfate, and in particular the monoester sulfosuccinates described below.

Particularly preferred anionic surfactants are the sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinamates and sulfosuccinamides, especially sulfosuccinates and sulfosuccinamates, most preferably sulfosuccinates. The sulfosuccinates are the salts of the mono- and di-esters of sulfosuccinic acid HOOCCH (S0 ₃ H) CH ₂ COOH, while the sulfosuccinamates are understood to mean the salts of the monoamides of sulfosuccinic acid and the sulfosuccinamides the salts of diamides of sulfosuccinic acid ,

The salts are preferably alkali metal salts, ammonium salts and mono-, di- or trialkanolammonium salts, for example mono-, di- or triethanolammonium salts, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium or ammonium salts, particularly preferably sodium or ammonium salts preferably sodium salts.

In the sulfosuccinates, one or both carboxyl groups of the sulfosuccinic acid is preferably with one or two identical or different unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated, acyclic or cyclic, optionally alkoxylated alcohols having 4 to 22, preferably 6 to 20, in particular 8 to 18 , more preferably 10 to 16, most preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms esterified. Particularly preferred are the esters of unbranched and / or saturated and / or acyclic and / or alkoxylated alcohols, in particular unbranched, saturated fatty alcohols and / or unbranched, saturated, with ethylene and / or propylene oxide, preferably ethylene oxide, alkoxylated fatty alcohols having a degree of alkoxylation of 1 to 20, preferably 1 to 15, in particular 1 to 10, more preferably 1 to 6, most preferably 1 to 4. The monoesters are used in the context of the present invention Invention preferred over the diesters. A particularly preferred sulfosuccinate is sulphonated bernsteinsäurelaurylpolyglycolester-di-sodium salt (lauryl EO sulfosuccinate, di-sodium salt; INCI Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate), the weight, for example as Tego ^® sulfosuccinate F 30 (Goldschmidt) with a sulfosuccinate 30 .-% is commercially available.

In the sulfosuccinamates or sulfosuccinamides, one or both form carboxyl groups of the sulfosuccinic acid preferably with a primary or secondary amine having one or two identical or different, unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated, acyclic or cyclic, optionally alkoxylated alkyl radicals having 4 to 22 , preferably 6 to 20, in particular 8 to 18, more preferably 10 to 16, most preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms carries, a carboxylic acid amide. Particular preference is given to unbranched and / or saturated and / or acyclic alkyl radicals, in particular unbranched, saturated fatty alkyl radicals.

Also suitable are, for example, the following sulfosuccinates and sulfosuccinamates designated according to INCI: ammonium dinonyl sulfosuccinates, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinates, diammonium dimethicone copolyol sulfosuccinates, diammonium lauramido-MEA sulfosuccinates, diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinates, diammonium oleamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Diamyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dicapryl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dicyclohexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Diheptyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dihexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Diisobutyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cetearyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocamido Glucoside Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocoyl Butyl Gluceth-10 sulfosuccinates, disodium C12-15 pareth sulfosuccinates, disodium deceth-5 sulfosuccinates, disodium deceth-6 sulfosuccinates, disodium dihydroxyethyl sulfosuccinyl undecylenates, disodium dimet hicone copolyol sulfosuccinates, disodium hydrogenated cottonseed glycerides sulfosuccinates, disodium isodecyl sulfosuccinates, disodium isostearamido MEA sulfosuccinates, disodium isostearamido MIPA sulfosuccinates, disodium isostearyl sulfosuccinates, disodium laneth-5 sulfosuccinates, disodium lauramido MEA sulfosuccinates, disodium lauramido PEG-2 sulfosuccinates, disodium Lauramido PEG-5 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth-6 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth-9 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth-12 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Myristamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Nonoxynol-10 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Oleamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Oleamido MIPA- Sulfosuccinates, disodium oleamido PEG-2 sulfosuccinates, disodium oleth-3 sulfosuccinates, disodium oleyl sulfosuccinates, disodium palmitamido PEG-2 sulfosuccinates, disodium palmitoleeamido PEG-2 sulfosuccinates, disodium PEG-4 cocamido MIPA sulfosuccinates, disodium PEG-5 lauryl citrate sulfosuccinates, disodium PEG-8 Palm Glycerides Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Ricinoleamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Sitostereth-14 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Stearamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Stearyl Sulfosuccinamate, Disodium Stearyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Tallamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Tallowamido MEA Sulfosuccinates, disodium tallow sulfosuccinamates, disodium tridecylsulfosuccinates, disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinates, disodium undecylenamido PEG-2 sulfosuccinates, disodium wheat germamido MEA sulfosuccinates, disodium wheat germamido PEG-2 sulfosuccinates, di-TEA-oleamido PEG-2 sulfosuccinates, ditridecyl sodium sulfosuccinates , Sodium Bisglycol Ricinosulfosuccinate, Sodium / MEA Laureth-2 Sulfosuccinate and Tetrasodium Dicarboxyethyl Stearyl Sulfosuccinamate. Yet another suitable sulfosuccinamate is disodium C 16-18 alkoxy-propylene sulfosuccinamate.

The content of anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention, preferably of the anionic surfactants mentioned, can vary within wide ranges, depending on the purpose of the agent in question. Thus, an agent according to the invention can contain very large amounts of anionic surfactant. Likewise, an agent according to the invention may contain only very small amounts of anionic surfactant, for example less than 15 or 10% by weight or less than 5% by weight or even less. However, anionic surfactants are advantageously present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 40% by weight and in particular from 5 to 30% by weight, with concentrations above 10% by weight and even above 15% by weight being particular Find favor. According to a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains anionic surfactants, preferably in amounts of at least 0.01% by weight, based on the total agent. In another preferred embodiment, the agent of the invention may be free of anionic surfactant.

In addition to the anionic surfactants mentioned, but also independently of these, soaps may be present in the compositions according to the invention. Particularly suitable are saturated fatty acid soaps, such as the salts of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, hydrogenated erucic acid and behenic acid, and in particular of natural fatty acids, e.g. Coconut, palm kernel or tallow fatty acids, derived soap mixtures. The content of the agent in soaps, independently of other anionic surfactants, is preferably not more than 10% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 7.0% by weight, based on the total agent. According to another preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is free of soap.

The anionic surfactants and soaps may be in the form of their sodium, potassium or ammonium salts and as soluble salts of organic bases, such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine. Preferably, they are in the form of their sodium or potassium salts, especially in the form of the sodium salts. Anionic surfactants and soaps may also be prepared in situ by incorporating into the spray-dried composition the anionic surfactant acids and optionally fatty acids which are then neutralized by the alkali carriers in the spray-dried composition.

The skin treatment compositions according to the invention may preferably also contain at least one cat contain ionic surfactant. Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, surface-active quaternary compounds, in particular having an ammonium, sulfonium, phosphonium, iodonium or arsonium group. Through the use of quaternary surface-active compounds with antimicrobial action, the agent can be designed with an antimicrobial effect or its possibly existing antimicrobial effect due to other ingredients can be improved.

Particularly preferred cationic surfactants are the quaternary, partially antimicrobial ammonium compounds (QAV, INCI quaternary ammonium compounds) according to the general formula (R ') (R'')(R''') (R ^IV ) N ⁺ X ^" , in which R ¹ to R ^IV are identical or different C _1-22 -alkyl 'C _7. ₂₈ - aralkyl radicals or heterocyclic radicals, or in the case of an aromatic compound such as pyridine-even three groups together with the nitrogen atom forming the heterocycle, for example a Pyridinium or imidazolinium compounds, and X ^~ halide ions, sulfate ions, hydroxide ions or similar anions are preferred For optimum antimicrobial activity, preferably at least one of the radicals has a chain length of 8 to 18, in particular 12 to 16, carbon atoms.

QACs are prepared by reacting tertiary amines with alkylating agents, e.g. Methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also ethylene oxide produced. The alkylation of tertiary amines with a long alkyl radical and two methyl groups is particularly easy, the quaternization of tertiary amines with two long radicals and one methyl group can be carried out with the aid of methyl chloride under mild conditions. Amines having three long alkyl radicals or hydroxy-substituted alkyl radicals are less reactive and are preferably quaternized with dimethyl sulfate.

The skin-treating agents of the invention may contain one or more cationic surfactants, advantageously in amounts, based on the total composition, of from 0 to 30% by weight, more preferably greater than 0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight. , in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-%. Suitable minimum values may also be 0.5, 1, 2 or 3 wt .-%. According to a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains cationic surfactants, preferably in amounts of at least 0.1% by weight, based on the total agent. According to another preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention may be free of cationic surfactant.

The skin treatment compositions of the invention may contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, advantageously in amounts, based on the total composition, of from 0 to 30% by weight, more preferably greater than 0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight. , in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-%. In another preferred embodiment, the agent of the invention may be free of amphoteric surfactants. According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may contain only very little total surfactant, eg the total amount of surfactant may be less than 20% by weight, 15% by weight, 10% by weight or 5% by weight, advantageously even less than 3% by weight. % or less than 1% by weight, in particular even less than 0.5% by weight or less than 0.1% by weight,% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition. However, the total surfactant content is preferably at least 0.01% by weight, 0.1% by weight or 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Soluble complexing agents may preferably be used in amounts of from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 25% by weight and particularly preferably from 10% by weight to 20% by weight, of the composition according to the invention. based on the total weight of the agent, with citrates, triphosphates, phosphonates, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (eg adipic, glutaric, succinic) examples.

In another preferred embodiment, the agent of the invention may be free of soluble complexing agents.

The agent according to the invention preferably contains at least one complexing agent in a total amount of usually 0 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 8 wt. -%, most preferably 1, 5 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

It should be noted at this point that the term% by weight, unless otherwise indicated, refers to the entire average.

The content of water in preferred agents according to the invention depends i.a. Accordingly, whether the agent is in liquid or solid form, is therefore preferably 0 to less than 100 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 95 wt .-%, with values of at most 5 wt .-%, in particular for solid or non-aqueous find special preference for liquid funds. Not included here was the water of crystallization present in individual raw materials, in particular the antiperspirant aluminum and / or zirconium compounds.

In the case of liquid agents, the composition of the invention according to a preferred embodiment contains water in an amount of more than 20 wt .-%, advantageously more than 30 wt .-%., More preferably more than 40 wt .-%, even more advantageous as 50 wt .-%, in particular 60 to 99 wt .-%, particularly preferably 70 to 98 wt .-% and most preferably 80 to 95 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

The upper limit of water may also be 80 wt%, 70 wt%, 60 wt%, 50 wt%, 40 wt%, 30 wt%, 20 wt%, or 10 Wt .-% wt .-%, based on the total agent. The lower limit of water may, for example, at 80 wt .-%, 70 wt .-%, 60 wt .-%, 50 wt .-%, 40 wt .-%, 30 wt .-%, 20 wt .-% or 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

The above upper and lower limits can of course be meaningfully combined, z. B. to water contents of 60-80 wt .-% or 10-30 wt .-%, etc.

In a further preferred embodiment, the skin treatment agent according to the invention contains at least one UV-absorbing substance. The at least one UV-absorbing substance is in preferred skin treatment compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-10 wt .-%, most preferably 2 wt .-% to 7 wt .-%, contain. These amounts do not include the at least one photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention which can also absorb in the UV range.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are in liquid form. To achieve a liquid consistency, the use of both liquid organic solvents and water may be indicated. Therefore, preferred agents according to the invention optionally contain at least one solvent.

Solvents which can be used in preferred agents according to the invention originate, for example, from the group of monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, alkanolamines or glycol ethers, provided they are miscible with water in the concentration range indicated. Preferably, the solvents are selected from ethanol, n- or i-propanol, butanols, glycol, propane or butanediol, glycerol, diglyol, propyl or butyl diglycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol methyl ether, ethylene glycol ethyl ether, ethylene glycol propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono n-butyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether , Diethylene glycol ethyl ether, propylene glycol methyl, -ethyl or -propyl ether, butoxy-propoxy-propanol (BPP), dipropylene glycol monomethyl, or - ethyl ether, di-isopropylene glycol monomethyl, or -ethyl ether, methoxy, ethoxy or butoxy triglycol, 1-butoxyethoxy-2-propanol, 3-methyl-3-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol t-butyl ether, 1, 2 propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and mixtures of these solvents.

Among the alcohols which may be preferably used as cosolvents in the present invention are low molecular weight liquid polyethylene glycols, for example, polyethylene glycols having a molecular weight of 200, 300, 400 or 600. Further suitable cosolvents are other alcohols, for example (a) lower alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and n-butanol, (b) ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, (c) C ₂ -C ₄ polyols such as a diol or a triol, for example ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol or mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred is from the class of diols 1, 2-octanediol. In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains one or more solvents from the group comprising C ₄ to C ₄ monoalcohols, C ₂ to C ₆ glycols, C ₃ to C 12 glycol ethers and glycerol, in particular glycerol. The C ₃ - to C ₁₂ -glycol ethers according to the invention contain alkyl or alkenyl groups having less than 10 carbon atoms, preferably up to 8, in particular up to 6, more preferably 1 to 4 and most preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms.

Preferred d- to C ₄ monoalcohols are ethanol, n-propanol, / ^'so-propanol and tert-butanol. Preferred C ₂ to C ₆ glycols are ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol and 1,6-hexanediol, especially ethylene glycol and 1,2-propylene glycol. Preferred C ₃ - to C 12 glycol ethers are di-, tri-, tetra- and pentaethylene glycol, di-, tri- and tetrapropylene glycol, propylene glycol monotertiary butyl ether and propylene glycol monoethyl ether and the solvents designated according to INCI butoxydiglycol, butoxyethanol, butoxyisopropanol, butoxypropanol, butyloctanol, ethoxydiglycol, ethoxyethanol , Ethyl hexanediol, isobutoxypropanol, isopentyldiol, 3-methoxybutanol, methoxyethanol, methoxyisopropanol and methoxymethylbutanol.

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise one or more solvents in a total amount of usually up to 90% by weight, preferably 0, 1 to 50% by weight, in particular 2 to 40% by weight, particularly preferably 3 to 30% by weight. , most preferably 5 to 15 wt .-% each based on the total agent.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains at least one viscosity regulator, which preferably acts as a thickener.

The viscosity of the compositions according to the invention can be measured by conventional standard methods (for example Brookfield viscometer RVD-VII at 20 rpm and 20 ° C., spindle 3) and is preferably in the range from 10 to 5000 mPas. Preferred liquid to gel compositions have viscosities of 20 to 4000 mPas, with values between 40 and 2000 mPas being particularly preferred.

Dyes can be used optionally in the composition according to the invention, wherein the amount of one or more dyes is to be chosen so small that remain after application of the agent no visible residues. Preferably, the agent according to the invention is free of dyes.

The agent according to the invention may preferably contain one or more antimicrobial agents or preservatives in an amount of usually 0.0001 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 2 wt .-%, in particular 0.0002 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0002 to 0.2 wt .-%, most preferably 0.0003 to 0, 1 wt .-%, contained ,

Depending on the antimicrobial spectrum and mechanism of action, antimicrobial agents or preservatives are distinguished between bacteriostats and bactericides, fungistatics and fungicides, etc. Important substances from these groups are, for example, benzalkonium chlorides and halophenols. The terms antimicrobial action and antimicrobial agent have the usual meaning within the scope of the teaching according to the invention. Suitable antimicrobial agents are preferably selected from the groups of alcohols, amines, aldehydes, antimicrobial acids or their salts, carboxylic acid esters, acid amides, phenols, phenol derivatives, diphenyls, diphenylalkanes, urea derivatives, oxygen, nitrogen acetals and formal, benzamidines, phthalimide derivatives , antimicrobial surface-active compounds, quinolines, 1,2-dibromo-2,4-di-cyanobutane, iodo-2-propyl-butyl-carbamate, iodine, iodophores, peroxo compounds and any mixtures of the above.

The antimicrobial agent may be selected from n-propanol, i-propanol, 1,3-butanediol, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, undecylenic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2 'Hydroxydiphenylether (trichlosan), chlorhexidine, N- (4-chlorophenyl) - N- (3,4-dichlorophenyl) urea and natural antimicrobial agents of plant origin (eg from spices or herbs), animal and microbial origin. Preferably, antimicrobial surface-active quaternary compounds, a natural antimicrobial agent of plant origin and / or a natural antimicrobial agent of animal origin, most preferably at least one natural antimicrobial agent of plant origin from the group comprising caffeine, theobromine and theophylline and essential oils such as eugenol, thymol and geraniol, and / or at least one natural antimicrobial agent of animal origin from the group, comprising enzymes such as protein from milk, lysozyme and lactoperoxidase, and / or at least one antimicrobial surface-active quaternary compound with an ammonium, sulfonium, phosphonium, iodonium - or Arsoniumgruppe, peroxo compounds and chlorine compounds are used. Also substances of microbial origin, so-called bacteriocins, can be used. Glycine, glycine derivatives, formaldehyde, compounds which readily split off formaldehyde, formic acid and peroxides are preferably used.

The suitable as antimicrobial agents quaternary ammonium compounds (QAV) have been described above. Is particularly suitable, for example, benzalkonium chloride, etc. Benzalkonium halides and / or substituted benzalkonium halides are for example commercially available as Barquat ^® ex Lonza, Marquat® ^® ex Mason, Variquat ^® ex Witco / Sherex and Hyamine ^® ex Lonza and as Bardac ^® ex Lonza. Other commercially obtainable antimicrobial agents are hexaminium N- (3-chloroallyl) as Dowicide and Dowicil ^® ^® ex Dow, Benzethonium as Hyamine ^® 1622 ex Rohm & Haas, methylbenzethonium as Hyamine ^® 10X ex Rohm & Haas, cetylpyridinium chloride such Cepacol ex Merrell Labs.

According to the invention, amino acid oligomers (vide supra) are peptides having 2 to 30, preferably 2 to 15, amino acids. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂ 4-acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides, which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Many of these amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit cells of the immune system, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then induce, or are capable of, repair processes in the tissue, eg collagen synthesis, via the release of growth factors To bind the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus to release active TGF-ß (tissue growth factor), which induces the synthesis of collagen in dermal fibroblasts. Such amino acid oligomers can be used as anti-aging agents.

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val- Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-.beta.-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester (eg, calmosensins from Sederma), carnosine (.beta. His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" from GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component The tripeptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as the copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) and can be purchased as such via ProCyte Corporation.A further preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCI). Designation: tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, which is obtainable, for example, under the name Collasyn 314-GR from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. Further preferred tripeptides preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val- Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys-Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap- Val-Lys, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, z. B. by the company Pentapharm under the name SYN ^® -COLL, Lys-Pro Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (Tripeptide-2), Tripeptide-4 (e.g. ATPeptides, via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn N -elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ .

Preference according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are selected from Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, z. B. is available under the name Eyeliss of Sederma, but also forms part of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma. The Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are rearranged and / or in which Rigin a maximum of two amino acids are substituted, for. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a Pro or Arg, and more preferably, the Tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary. As Rigin analogs according to the invention Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred. ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), eg, Gin, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline, and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as obtainable, for example, in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma.

The polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂ 4-acylamino acids are preferably selected from vegetable and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, conchiolin and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolysates, eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ^® (Diamalt) Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda). Particularly preferred are soy protein hydrolysates, more preferably soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400 to 1700 daltons, e.g. B. under the trade name Ridulisse C ^{® available} from the company Silab, and soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 600 - 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, z. As available under the trade name Phytokine ^® from Coletica.

In a further preferred embodiment, the polymers of the amino acids are selected from DNA repair enzymes.

DNA repair enzymes preferred according to the invention are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter abbreviated to "T4N5" below. These two enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes. DNA repair is defined as the cleavage or removal of UV-induced pyrimidine dimers from the DNA.

Photolyase is the abbreviation for deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3. A particularly efficient photolyase is derived from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine microorganism. The photolyase from A. nidulans is now obtained in technically relevant quantities from E. coli. Photolyase relies on light for activation.

The enzyme T4 endonuclease V is produced by the cfenV gene of bacteriophage T4 and belongs to the phosphodiesterases which hydrolytically cleave the nucleic acids at the (5 ^' -3 ^' ) bond. T4N5 is also active without the influence of light.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosome ™, liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. B. under the name Ultrasome ™ from AGI Dermatics, USA, available.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the commercial products Photosomes ™ or Ultrasomes ™ in total amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5.0% by weight and more preferably 1.0% - 4.0 wt .-%, based on the total composition of the invention.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one monomer, oligomer or polymer of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances in total amounts of 0.0000001-10 Wt .-%, preferably 0.001 - 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01 - 1 - 2 - 3 wt .-%, each based on the active substance content in the total composition according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one DNA oligonucleotide or at least one RNA oligonucleotide. According to the invention, an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in ß-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine-5 'triphosphate).

An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one DNA oligonucleotide and / or one RNA oligonucleotide in total amounts of 0.000001-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.0001-0.5 wt.%, And particularly preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight, based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one natural betaine compound. Natural betaine compounds of the invention are naturally occurring compounds having the atomic grouping R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^" according to IUPAC Rule C-816.1 So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge at N or P and the negative charge is formally O, S, B or C, but does not conform to IUPAC Rule C-816.1 Betaine compounds preferred according to the invention are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^" ) and carnitine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^" ), each with Me = methyl and X = CC single bond (in the case of the betaine) or X = -CHOH-CH ₂ - (in the case of carnitine).

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight. , in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Particularly preferred vitamin A components according to the invention are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol, and also esters thereof, such as retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to the photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention, they contain at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin group A or at least one ester thereof in total amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0 , 05 - 0.05 - 1 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

Preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of group C and their esters are vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl. The combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the said compounds of the vitamin C type in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 - 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

The vitamin E group includes tocopherol, especially α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one substance selected from tocopherol and its derivatives in a total amount of from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 1 - 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B ₇ (see above).

The fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group, which the backbone of 2-methyl-1, 4- located naphthoquinone based belong phylloquinone (vitamin Ki), Farnochinon or menaquinone 7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K _3). Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin K in a total amount of 0001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 0.01% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 0.5 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

Vitamin A palmitate (retinyl palmitate), pantolactone, nicotinamide, pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, and the tocopherol esters, especially tocopheryl acetate, are particularly preferred in the present invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention, at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form. Preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, Hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, Pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. The esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid and / or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or a derivative, in particular an ester, a lactone or a Salt thereof, in a total amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0 1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition ,

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extra kt.

The flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the flavanans, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), the aurones and the isoflavones. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one flavonoid in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the flavonoid active substance in the entire cosmetic composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract. The isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted at this point as isoflavonoids.

For the purposes of the present invention, isoflavones are to be understood as meaning substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, hydrogenation of which may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation under Formation of a carbonyl group in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one polyphenol or one polyphenol-rich plant extract.

According to the invention, polyphenols are aromatic compounds which contain at least two phenolic hydroxyl groups in the molecule. These include the three dihydroxybenzenes catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, as well as phloroglucin, pyrogallol and hexa-hydroxybenzene. Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechins, usnic acid, and as tannins the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and digalloylgallic acid. According to the invention, the polyphenols are preferred in amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight and most preferably from 0.01 to 3% by weight, based in each case on the weight of Commercial product containing at least one polyphenol, used in the entire composition of the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (UBI-I):

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Particularly preferred is the ubiquinone of formula (II) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one ubiquinone, ubiquinol or a derivative thereof in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.005 to 0, 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain silymarin. According to the invention, silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was previously regarded as a uniform substance. The main constituents of silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydianin, which belong to the group of flavanolignans.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain silymarin in amounts of from 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 0.01% by weight and more preferably from 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one naturally occurring xanthine derivative selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline. According to the invention, the naturally occurring xanthine derivatives are preferred in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably from 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on entire composition, included. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain ectoine. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention, ectoine is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one active substance which is selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters. According to the invention, polyhydroxystilbenes are understood to mean stilbenes which are substituted by 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 hydroxyl groups on the two phenyl radicals, it being possible for these to be esterified. Mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. Particularly preferred hydroxystilbenes and their esters according to the invention are selected from resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol), the resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric acid esters and their salts. An inventively particularly preferred Resveratrolphosphorsäureester is trisodium resveratrol triphosphates, z. Available from Ajinomoto.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active agent selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters, in a total amount of 0.000001-5% by weight, preferably 0.00001-1 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 0, 1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005 - 0.05 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one derivative of methylated silanol, preferably at least one ester of methylated silanol. Preferred derivatives of methylated silanol are selected from: sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (algisium, exsymol); methylsilanol mannuronate (Algisium C®, exsymol); methylsilanol mannuronate Nylon-12 (Algisium C powder®, exsymol); ascorbylmethylsilanol (ascorbosilane concentrate C®, exsymol); ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (ascorbosilane C®, exsymol); dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC®, exsymol); dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane nylon-12 (DSBC powder®, exsymol); sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol (DSH®, exsymol); dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (DSHC®, exsymol); methysilanol glycyrrhizinate (Glysinol®, Exsymol), methylsilanolhydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolisilane®, Exsymol); methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartate (Hydroxyprolisilane C®, exsymol); sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium®, exsymol); lactoylmethylsilanol elastinate (Lasilium C®, exsymol); dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol (Liposiliol C®, exsymol); methylsilanol acetylmethionate (Methiosilane®, exsymol); acetylmethionylmethylsifanol elastinate (Methiosilane C®, exsymol); methylsilanol PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol®, exsymol); methylsilanol tri PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (monosiliol C®, exsymol); methylsilanol elastinates (proteosilanes C®, exsymol); pyrollidone carboxylate caustic methylsilanol (Silhydrate®, exsymol); pyrollidone carboxylate copper methylsilanol (Silhydrate C®, exsymol); methylsilanolcarboxymethyl theophylline (Theophyllisilane®, exsymol); methylsilan carboxymethyl theophylline alginate (Theophyllisilane C® exsymol); methylsilanol acetyltyrosines (Tyrosilane®, exsymol); Copper acetyl tyrosinate methylsilanol (Tyrosilane C®, exsymol). Particular preference is given to sodium hyaluronates, dimethylsilanol, dimethylsilanol, hyaluronates, methylsilanol, mannuronates, methylsilanol, hydroxyproline and methylsilanol, hydroxyproline aspartates. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one derivative of methylated silanol in total amounts of 0.001-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.005-1 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 wt based on the active substance in the entire composition according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain phytic acid. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain phytic acid in a total amount of 0.001-1% by weight, preferably 0.01-0.5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.05-0.1% by weight. -%, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one skin-lightening active ingredient. Skin-lightening active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected individually or in mixtures from hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, extracts from licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra), extracts from different parts of the mulberry tree (Morus spp., In particular from Morus alba and in particular extracts from the bark, the strain , leaves and fruits), extracts of Scutellaria spp. (Skullcap), in particular from Scutellaria baicalensis (Baikal helmetwort) and here in particular extracts from the root, extracts from Waltheria indica ("Sleepy Morning") and in particular extracts from the leaves, extracts of bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (L) , Ericaceae) and in particular extracts from the leaves, extracts of cranberry (leaves and flowers), extracts of blueberry (fruits), extracts of leaf buds of pear trees, aniseed oil, extracts of blackberry leaves, furthermore extracts of Pyrola rotundifolia (round-leaved wintergreen), cucumber and / or lime, furthermore ascorbic acid, coumaric acid ((Z) - 2-hydroxycinnamic acid) and cis-9-octadecenedioic acid (other nomenclature: cis-8-hexadecenedicarboxylic acid), the latter commercially available, for example, under the name Arlatone DIOIC DCA of Uniqema, and the esters and / or salts of these acids: Cosmetic or dermatological compositions particularly preferred according to the invention nd, characterized in that it comprises at least one further skin lightening agent in total amounts of 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0, 1 to 1 -2 wt .-%, respectively based on the active substance in the entire composition according to the invention. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention also contain at least one astringent active ingredient which leads to a temporary narrowing of the skin pores, for example tannins or tanning agents or polyphenols in general, furthermore aluminum salts, such as are also used as antiperspirant active ingredients. These agents regulate the amount of sebum on the skin surface by delaying sebum leakage.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention also contain at least one sebum-regulating active substance which inhibits the enzyme 5-alpha-reductase which is involved in the activity of the sebaceous glands. Preferred inhibitors of 5-alpha-reductase are selected from finasteride ^®, 4-androstene-3-one-17.beta.-carboxylic acid, (4R) -5, 10-seco-19-norpregna-4,5-diene-3, 10, 20-trian, (5-alpha, 20-R) -4-diazo-21-hydroxy-20-methylpregnan-3-one, 4-azasteroid, especially 17β-N, N-diethylcarbamoyl-4-methyl-4-aza 5-alpha-androstan-3-one, 17-alpha-acetoxy-6-methylene pregn-4-ene-3,20-dione, 3-carboxyandrosta-3,5-diene steroid derivatives and 3-carboxy A ring-aryl steroids, 3-androstene-3-carboxylic acids, 3-carboxy-17β-substituted steroids, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -5-a-androst-1-en-4-aza-3-one, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -androst-3,5-diene-3-carboxylic acid, 17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -androst-3,5-diene-3-carboxylic acid, 17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide ) -estra-1, 3, 5 (10) -triene-3-carboxylic acid, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -stra-1, 3,5 (10) -triene-3-carboxylic acid, 17β- (N, N -diisopropylcarboxamide) -estra-1, 3,5 (10) -triene-3-sulfonic acid, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -estra-1, 3,5 (10) -triene-3-sulfonic acid, 17β- (N , N-diisopro pylcarboxamide) -estra-1, 3,5 (10) -triene-3-phosphonic acid, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) - estra-1,3,5 (10) -triene-3-phosphonic acid, 17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -estra-1, 3,5 (10) -triene-3-phosphinic acid, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -estra-1, 3,5 (10) -triene-3-phosphinic acid, 17β- ( Nt-butylcarboxamide) -androst-3,5-diene-3-phosphinic acid, 17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -androst-3,5-diene-3-phosphinic acid, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -androst-3 , 5-diene-3-phosphonic acid, (Z) -17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -androst-4-en-3-ylidene-acetic acid, 17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -5a-androst-2 -en-3-acetic acid, (Z) -17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -5a-androst-3-ylidene acetic acid, 17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -5a-androst-3-ene-3 -acetic acid and 17ß- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -5a-androst-2-en-3-acetic acid and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned acids.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one inhibitor of 5-alpha reductase in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one deoxy sugar or a polysaccharide containing at least one deoxy sugar building block. Preferred deoxysugars according to the invention are selected from rhamnose and fucose. An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product fucogel ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum -1. Another inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Rhamnosoft ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2. An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Fucogenol ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-third An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Glycofilm ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-fourth According to the invention furthermore given to mixtures of the above, containing at least one deoxy-block polysaccharides, for example the mixture of Biosaccharide Gum-2 and Biosaccharide Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia are.

Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one polysaccharide containing deoxy sugar and / or at least one deoxy sugar building block in total amounts of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight and more preferably 0, 1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the invention.

A second object of this invention is a method of increasing and maintaining skin hydration over a period of at least 72 hours wherein a cosmetic composition of the first subject of the invention is applied to the skin and remains there for at least 30 minutes to several hours.

A third object of the present invention is finally the use of a cosmetic agent of the first subject of the invention for maintaining the skin moisture for at least 72 h.

B e i s p e e l e:

All weights are in wt.% In each case based on the total composition of the composition. The preparation of the agent was carried out by the skilled worker known and customary methods.

1.0 proof of effect

The composition according to the invention of the example "2.1 Bodylotion" was tested in comparison to the formulation with the name V1 by means of the method of corneometer measurement in comparison to an untreated sample The measured values were measured after 6, 24, 48 and 72 h on the forearm shown in Table 1.

The statistical evaluation clearly shows advantages for the composition according to the invention. The composition of the invention significantly improves skin hydration over 72 hours after only one application. The comparison formula also improves skin hydration after single use, but only significantly compared to untreated skin. This is all the more surprising as the prior art formulation with urea, sorbitol and hydroxyethyl urea contains three of those skilled in the art as very good moisturizers for the skin.

2.0 example formulations

2.1 Body lotion

E1 V1

Glycerin 5.0 5.0

Ethylhexyl palmitate 2.0 2.0

Sorbitol - 2, 1

Hexyl Laurate 2.0 2.0

Arginine 1, 0 -

Hydroxyethyl urea 1, 3

Cetearyl Alcohol 1, 0 1, 0

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 0.9 0.9

Sodium lactate 0.8 -

Glyceryl Stearate 0.5 0.5 Sodium PCA

urea

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Sodium carbomer

Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides

Sodium Acrylate / Sodiu

Acroyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Polyisobutene

Tocopheryl acetate

Sorbitan Oleate

Caprylyl / caprylic glucosides

linalool

Citronellol

Limonene

Benzyl Salicylate

phenoxyethanol

ethyl parabens

Methyl parabens

water

Claims

Patent claims

1 . Cosmetic composition for cleansing and in particular for the care of the skin and hair, contained in a cosmetic carrier

a) 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure or their physiologically acceptable salts, b) 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Lactic acid or its physiologically acceptable salts and

c) at least one amino acid in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that further

at least one salt of a Ci ₂ -2o-alkyl phosphate is contained.

3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that further at least one C _14th ₂ o-mono- or diacylglyceride is included.

4. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the amino acids are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine, betaine , Ornithine, 1, 1-dimethyl-proline, carnitine, taurine, choline and mixtures thereof.

5. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized gekennzeihnet that the amino acid is selected from arginine, glutamine, carnitine and taurine and from the mixtures of:

Arginine and taurine,

Glutamine and taurine,

Glutamine and carnitine,

Arginine and glutamine,

Carnitine and taurine, as well as the mixtures

Arginine, carnitine and taurine,

Arginine, glutamine and carnitine,

Arginine, glutamine and taurine,

Glutamine, carnitine and taurine.

6. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that further comprises at least one thickener selected from at least one compound selected from the group formed

Homopolymer or copolymer of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid,

Polysaccharide, preferably hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, xanthan gum, guar gum, bentonite, optionally hydrophilic or hydrophobically modified on the surface, is contained.

7. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that no further moisture-retaining agent is used in the composition according to the invention, in particular no urea and no urea derivative.

8. Cosmetic process for increasing the moisture content of the skin or hair for 72 h, in which a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 is applied to the skin or the hair and remains there.

9. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the natural moisture of the skin or hair is maintained for at least 72h.