WO2013092080A1 - Produit pour le soin du corps avec hydratation dermique améliorée - Google Patents

Produit pour le soin du corps avec hydratation dermique améliorée Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013092080A1
WO2013092080A1 PCT/EP2012/073194 EP2012073194W WO2013092080A1 WO 2013092080 A1 WO2013092080 A1 WO 2013092080A1 EP 2012073194 W EP2012073194 W EP 2012073194W WO 2013092080 A1 WO2013092080 A1 WO 2013092080A1
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Prior art keywords
acid
weight
preferred
skin
taurine
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PCT/EP2012/073194
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Marianne Waldmann-Laue
Soraya Heinen
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2013092080A1 publication Critical patent/WO2013092080A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair

Definitions

  • the invention relates to an agent for cleansing and care of skin and hair based on a special active ingredient combination for increasing skin hydration and maintaining skin hydration over 72 hours, a method for cleansing and care of skin and hair containing this combination of active ingredients and the use of the agent for the body care to achieve a lasting up to 72 h increase in skin moisture.
  • Skin and hair cleansers such as those commercially available as liquid soaps, shampoos, shower baths, bubble baths, shower gels, and wash gels, must not only have good detergency, but should also be well tolerated by the skin and mucous membranes as well if used frequently, do not cause excessive defatting or dryness.
  • an active ingredient combination for the cleansing of skin and hair has now been found, which increases the moisture balance of dry skin in a unique manner even with a single topical application for up to 72 hours, without the cleaning performance being lost when used in cleansing compositions.
  • a first subject of the invention are therefore agents for cleaning and in particular for the care of skin and hair, contained in a cosmetic carrier
  • compositions according to the invention contain as the first compulsory component a 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and the physiologically tolerated salts thereof.
  • a 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups.
  • the sodium salt is most preferred.
  • the amounts used in the inventive compositions are preferably 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 3.0, and in particular 0.3 to 2.5 wt.%.
  • the second component of the active ingredient combination according to the invention is lactic acid or its physiologically tolerated salts.
  • the sodium salt is most preferred.
  • the amounts used in the inventive compositions are preferably 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 3.0, and in particular 0.3 to 2.5 wt.%.
  • the third essential ingredient of the active ingredient combination according to the invention is an amino acid.
  • amino acid is also understood as meaning a structure which contains only one permanent cationic group in the molecule, such as, for example, choline.
  • this term also means substances such as carnitine or taurine, since Like the amino acids in biological systems, they naturally occur and in many cases behave like amino acids.
  • Amino acids of the invention are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine , Valine, betaine, ornithine, 1, 1-dimethyl-proline, hercynin ( ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ -trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), ergothionein (thionein, 2-mercapto-Na, Na, Na-trimethyl-L) histidinium betaine), carnitine, taurine and choline, and mixtures thereof. All types of isomers, such as diastereomers, enantiomers, isocyanate trans isomers, optical
  • alanine arginine, asparagine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine, betaine, ornithine, 1, 1-dimethyl-proline, carnitine, taurine, choline and their mixtures used.
  • Arginine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, proline, serine, betaine, carnitine, taurine and mixtures thereof are very particularly preferably used.
  • Arginine, glutamine, histidine, lysine, carnitine and taurine and mixtures thereof are most preferably used.
  • Arginine, glutamine, carnitine and taurine as well as the mixtures of arginine and taurine are most preferred,
  • compositions according to the invention contain the amino acids as described above in a total amount, based on the total agent, in an amount of from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 7.0% by weight, most preferably from 0, 1 to 5.0 wt .-%. If mixtures of at least two amino acids are used, then the same amounts apply as previously mentioned. In the case of mixtures, the individual amino acids are used in a ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5. The ratio is based on the weight ratio of the amino acids. When a mixture of three amino acids is used, these are each used in equal parts by weight.
  • composition according to the invention is at least comparable to the usual humectants known to the person skilled in the art, in particular urea and urea derivatives.
  • urea and urea derivatives not only have the desired property of keeping skin and hair moisturized. They also have keratolytic Properties. These properties, with the exception of special fields of application, are usually undesirable in detergents, skin care and moisturizers. It is therefore preferred according to the invention if the agents according to the invention contain as moisturizing factor the combination according to the invention alone without any further addition of urea and urea derivatives.
  • a wide range of cosmetic products are distinguished for cosmetic products, for example for skin care (bath preparations, skin washing and cleaning agents, skin care products, eye cosmetics, lip care products, nail care products, personal hygiene products, foot care products), those having a special effect (sunscreen agents, skin tanning agents, depigmenting agents). dentifrices, deodorants, antiperspirants, depilatories, shaving agents, fragrances), dentifrices and mouthwashes (dentifrices, oral care products, denture adhesives, denture adhesives) and hair care preparations (shampoos, hair care products, hair hardening agents, hair shaping agents, color change agents).
  • Cosmetic compositions preferred according to the invention are selected from the group of skin creams, skin lotions, deodorants, antiperspirants, shower gels, shower baths, dentifrices, mouthwashes, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dyeing shampoos, hair dyes, hair setting agents, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair drying lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are formulated as solutions, emulsions or suspensions, an aqueous or an aqueous-alcoholic carrier being often preferred.
  • Cosmetic agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention comprise at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 40% by weight, more preferably at least 50% by weight and in particular at least 60% by weight of water.
  • this carrier preferably contains glycerol.
  • Cosmetic agents of this embodiment preferably contain glycerol, in particular in an amount of 0.05 to 15.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are skin treatment agents.
  • skin treatment compositions according to the invention are in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water-in-oil or water-in-oil Water emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, a hydrogel, a lipogel, a mono- or multiphase solution, a foam, a powder or a mixture with at least one as a medical adhesive suitable polymer.
  • the agents may also be presented in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm.
  • the carrier may be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil, or a mixture of such oils.
  • the agents are present as a microemulsion.
  • microemulsions are understood as meaning, in addition to the thermodynamically stable microemulsions, also the so-called "PIT" emulsions
  • PIT phase inversion temperature
  • these emulsions are systems containing the three components water, oil and emulsifier, which are oil-in at room temperature When these systems are heated, microemulsions are formed in a certain temperature range (referred to as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT") and, upon further heating, convert to water-in-oil emulsions But also at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions having a mean particle diameter of less than 400 nm and in particular of approximately 100 to 300 nm. According to the invention, such micro or "PIT" emulsions may be preferred. which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm.
  • Preferred optional ingredients of the cosmetic compositions of the invention can be defined by their function. Of course, some ingredients can also be multifunctional. Preferred ingredients of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be: absorbents, antimicrobial substances, binders, bleaches, chelating agents, emollients, emulsifiers / dispersants, emulsion stabilizers, depilatories and agents with hair growth inhibiting action, moisturizers, film formers, dyes, preservatives, corrosion inhibitors, skin cooling agents, pH Value regulator / buffer substances, surfactants / detergent substances, propellants, opacifiers, UV absorbers / light filter substances, denaturants, viscosity regulators.
  • the aforementioned ingredients may, according to further preferred embodiments, be present as sole additive in agents preferred according to the invention.
  • combinations of the abovementioned ingredients may also be present in the agents preferred according to the invention.
  • Polysaccharide preferably hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose,
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contain at least one homopolymer or copolymer of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS), whose acid groups are partially or completely neutralized. Said polymer is in turn preferably crosslinked.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention contains said polymers preferably in a total amount of 0.005 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.005 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0, 1 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the agent. This applies in particular to compositions according to the invention which contain the preferred preservative compositions of embodiments (A) to (X) (in particular combined with the preferred quantities of their ingredients in the cosmetic composition).
  • the partial neutralization of the acid groups results in the neutralized monomer unit, for example sodium 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonate or ammonium 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2 -propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonate, and the unneutralized, acidic monomer building block, 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid.
  • Suitable neutralized monomers are all 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonate salts. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, ammonium, ethanolamine or amino acid salt.
  • a first preferred thickener is the crosslinked AMPS homopolymer ammonium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate.
  • Such a crosslinked AMPS homopolymer is available, for example, from Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS.
  • crosslinked AMPS copolymers contain, besides AMPS, one, two or three different monomers which may be neutral or have a weak acid function.
  • cross-linked AMPS copolymers are suitable, which in addition to AMPS have four or even more monomers.
  • the thickening crosslinked AMPS copolymer contains as the second monomer a neutral monomer selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl methacrylate, Acrylamide, alkylacrylamides such as methylacrylamide, ethylacrylamide, n-propylacrylamide and isopropylacrylamide, dialkylamides such as dimethylacrylamide, diethylacrylamide, di-n-propylacrylamide and diisopropylacrylamide, the ethoxylated derivatives of the aforementioned esters and amides, and N-vinylpyrrolidone.
  • a neutral monomer selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl methacrylate, Acrylamide, alkylacrylamides
  • the neutral polyelectrolyte monomer is particularly preferably selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl methacrylate, the ethoxylated derivatives of said esters, acrylamide, dimethylacrylamide and N-vinylpyrrolidone.
  • Extremely preferred neutral polyelectrolyte monomers are selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, acrylamide, dimethylacrylamide and vinylpyrrolidone.
  • crosslinked AMPS copolymers are selected from crosslinked copolymers consisting of AMPS and N-vinylpyrrolidone, AMPS and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, AMPS and acrylamide, AMPS and dimethylacrylamide.
  • Particularly preferred ethoxylated derivatives of the above-mentioned (meth) acrylic esters and (meth) acrylic amides are those of the following formula (AMPS-copol) in which R1 and R3, which are the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an approximately linear or branched alkyl group 1 to 6 carbon atoms; Y is O or NH; R 2 is a hydrocarbon group having 6 to 50 carbon atoms; and x is the number of moles of the alkylene oxide and is in the range from 1 to 50, preferably 8 to 20,
  • a preferred crosslinked ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer is available from Clariant under the name Aristoflex AVC.
  • the thickening crosslinked AMPS copolymer as the second monomer contains a weak acid monomer selected from among acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid, the weak acid being partially or completely neutralized, and as a salt , is preferably present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, ethanolamine or amino acid salt, particularly preferably as the sodium salt.
  • Other highly preferred crosslinked AMPS copolymers are selected from crosslinked copolymers consisting of AMPS and sodium acrylate, AMPS and sodium methacrylate, AMPS and acrylamide and sodium acrylate, AMPS and acrylamide, and sodium acrylate and acrylic acid.
  • a preferred cross-linked sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer is available from Seppic under the designation Simulgel EPG.
  • AMPS 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain at least one homopolymer or copolymer of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid whose acid groups are partially or completely neutralized are. Particular preference is given to homopolymers of acrylic acid.
  • Such polymers have the INCI name carbomer.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention contains said polymers, in particular homopolymers of acrylic acid, preferably in a total amount of 0.005 to 5.0% by weight, in particular 0.005 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight. , in each case based on the weight of the agent.
  • compositions according to the invention which contain the preferred preservative compositions of embodiments (A) to (X) (in particular combined with the preferred quantities of their ingredients in the cosmetic composition).
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain at least one polysaccharide, preferably selected from at least one compound of the group formed, in addition to or in place of the homo- / copolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid is selected from xanthan gum, guar gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention contains said polysaccharides, in particular the preferred representatives, preferably in a total amount of 0.005 to 5.0% by weight, in particular 0.005 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight. , in each case based on the weight of the agent.
  • compositions according to the invention particularly preferably comprise at least one fatty substance as fatty substance.
  • fatty substances to understand fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components to understand.
  • the fatty substances are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in an amount of 5.0 to 50.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 8.0 to 30.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Suitable fatty substances are preferably linear, saturated primary alcohols having 14-30 carbon atoms, fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, triglycerides, waxes, fatty acid esters, natural oils, silicones.
  • the agents of the invention preferably contain at least one linear, saturated primary alcohol having 14-30 carbon atoms.
  • Linear, saturated primary alcohols having 14 to 30 carbon atoms which are preferred according to the invention are selected from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, 12-hydroxystearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol (arachyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol and myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, in particular technical mixtures such as arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).
  • Particularly preferred are mixtures of cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.
  • fatty alcohols are also referred to below synonymously as "fatty alcohols”.
  • Preferred cosmetic agents contain at least one linear, saturated primary alcohol having 14-30 carbon atoms in a total amount of 0.5 to 10.0 wt.%, Preferably 1.0 to 8.0 wt.%, In each case based on the total weight of the agent.
  • the agents according to the invention may preferably contain at least one fatty acid having 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount of fatty acid used is preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the amount is 0.5 to 10 wt.%, With very particularly advantageous amounts of 1 to 5 wt.% Are.
  • the natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention may be solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies are preferably:
  • oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
  • triglyceride oils are also suitable, such as the liquid fractions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils, in particular caprylic / capric triglyceride.
  • the compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
  • Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate
  • Kokosfettalkohol- caprinatV caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • isopropyl palmitate Rosanit ® IPP
  • oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,
  • Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol.
  • agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one fatty substance as fat body, it in turn preferably additionally contains at least one emulsifier.
  • Emulsifiers are preferably contained in the compositions of this embodiment in an amount of 0.25 to 10.0 wt .-%.
  • the emulsifier used is preferably at least one compound selected from one or more of the following groups:
  • alkyl and alkenyl, mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and their ethoxylated analogs
  • polystyrene resin e.g. Polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxy stearate or polyglycerol dimerate. Also suitable are mixtures of compounds of several of these classes of substances;
  • N-acylamino acids and / or N-acylated proteins each having a (C 8 to C 30 ) -acyl radical, (14) (C-I2 to C 2 o) -alkyl phosphate (preferably their potassium salt), in particular in combination with emulsifiers from group (8).
  • preferred means according to the invention having said fatty body preferably comprise at least one alkyl glycoside having a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 14-30 carbon atoms and having the general formula (E4-II)
  • R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 14 to 30, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms (in particular glucose or xylose)
  • p is a number from 1 to 10.
  • the compounds of the above formula (E4-II) can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.
  • the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, such as, in particular, fructose, glucose and xylose, preferably glucose (so-called APG) or xylose (so-called APX), with glucose being the most preferred sugar residue is.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are preferred whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7, and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 14-30, preferably 16-22 carbon atoms. Typical examples are myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof.
  • the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides are particularly preferably used as a mixture with the corresponding alcohol cut used for the alkylation. These are so-called self-emulsifying mixtures of long-chain fatty alcohols and corresponding alkylated glycosides. Preference is given to using mixtures which are available under the names Montanov 68, Montanov 202, Montanov L and Montanov 82 from Seppic. These mixtures contain about 15% by weight of alkyl glucoside and about 85% by weight of fatty alcohols. Even- but the alkyl and Alkenyloligoglycoside can also be used in pure form, for.
  • cetearyl glucoside available, for example, under the name Tego Care CG 90.
  • Preferred such mixtures are (according to the INCI name): C14-22 alcohols, C12-20 alkyl glucosides (Montanov L), arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl Glucosides (Montanov 202), Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucosides (Montanov 68, Emulgade PL 68/50), Cetearyl Alcohol, Coco Glucosides (Montanov 82).
  • lipid-containing, cosmetic compositions contain, in addition to the active ingredient composition according to the invention of the first subject of the invention as emulsifier, a mixture of
  • o-mono- or diacylglycerides preferably at least one Ci6-i8-mono- or diacylglyceride, particularly preferably selected from hardened palm oil glycerides, can be formulated and stored particularly stable in storage.
  • the at least one salt of a C 2 -2O-alkyl phosphate is present in the inventive compositions in a total amount from 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.3 - 1. 8 wt .-%, more preferably 1, 0 - 1, 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Preferred compositions according to the invention contain at least one salt of cetyl phosphate in a total amount of 0.2-2.0% by weight, preferably 0.3-1.8% by weight, more preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight. %, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise a mixture of diphenylmonocetyl phosphate and potassium dicetyl phosphate in a total amount of 0.2-2.0% by weight, preferably 0.3-1.8% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0-0.1 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.
  • 2 o-mono- or diacylglycerides are selected from monomyristoylglyceride, monopalmitoylglyceride, monostearoylglyceride, monoarachinoylglyceride, dimyristoylglyceride, dipalmitoylglyceride, distearoylglyceride and diarachinoylglyceride and mixtures thereof.
  • Further inventively preferred C 14th 2 o-Mono- or Diacylgly- ceridmischstead are glycerides cured, that is, hydrogenated, preferably fully hydrogenated, fatty acids of natural oils. Hardened palm oil glycerides are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the at least one Ci 4 . 20 -Mono- or diacylglyceride is in the compositions of the invention in a total amount of 0, 1-1, 7 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 1, 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.9 - 1, 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one substance selected from monomyristoylglyceride, monopalmitoylglyceride, monostearoylglyceride, monoarachinoylglyceride, dimyristoylglyceride, dipalmitoylglyceride, distearoylglyceride and diarachinoylglyceride, as well as mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 0.1-1.7% by weight, preferably 0.2 - 1, 4 parts by weight %, particularly preferably 0.9-1.1% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the invention contain as C 14 . 2 o-mono- or diacylglyceride mixture hardened palm oil glycerides in a total amount of 0, 1 - 1, 7 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 - 1, 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.9 - 1, 1 wt. %, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the invention contain at least one salt of a C 2 -2O-alkyl phosphate and the at least one Ci. 4 2 o-mono- or diacylglyceride in a weight ratio of 2/3 to 3/2, preferably 1/1 to 3/2, particularly preferably 6/5 to 3/2.
  • a particularly preferred O / W emulsifier system according to the invention comprising a mixture of dipotassium monocetyl phosphate and potassium dicetyl phosphate with hardened palmolglycerides is available as a commercial product "Emulsiphos 677660” (INCI: Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides) from Symrise.
  • the agents according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • oil-in-water emulsions may, also preferably, be stabilized by at least one of the abovementioned hydrogel formers.
  • the agents according to the invention may also be multi-phase, the phases may, for. B. horizontally, so one above the other, or vertically, so next to each other, be arranged. It may also be a disperse system in which e.g. the solid constituents are distributed inhomogeneously in the liquid matrix, so that such a dispersed system should be shaken before use.
  • Preferred optional ingredients of the cosmetic compositions of the invention can be defined by their function. Of course, some ingredients can also be multifunctional.
  • Preferred ingredients of the compositions according to the invention can be: a) absorbents
  • These preferably have the task of absorbing water and / or oil-soluble dissolved or finely divided substances.
  • microorganisms particularly microorganisms responsible, for example, for the formation of acne or body odor.
  • These germs include, among others, various species from the group of staphylococci, the group of Corynebacteria, anaerococci and micrococci, especially Corynebacterium acnes, Corynebacterium granulosum, Propionibacterium acnes, Propionibacterium avidum and Propionibacterium granulosum, Staphylococcus hominis, Anerococcus octavius, Corynebacterium tub., Corynebacterium xerosis, Coynebacterium jekelium, Staphyllococcus epidermis.
  • Preferred antimicrobial or antimicrobial agents according to the invention are in particular organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a number of plant extracts and zinc compounds. These include triclosan, chlorhexidine and chlorhexidine gluconate, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, bromochlorophene, dichlorophen, chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, hexachlorophene, dichloro-m-xylenol, dequalinium chloride, domiphenbromide, ammonium phenolsulfonate, benzalkonium halides, benzalkonium cetyl phosphate, benzalkonium saccharinates, Benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, laurylpyridinium chloride, laurylisoquinolinium bromide, methylbenzedonium chloride.
  • phenol phenoxyethanol, disodium dihydroxyethylsulfosuccinylundecylenate, sodium bicarbonate, zinc lactate, sodium phenolsulfonate and zinc phenolsulfonate, ketoglutaric acid, terpene alcohols such as.
  • chlorophyllin copper complexes a-monoalkyl glycerol ether with a branched or linear saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 6 - C 22 alkyl, particularly preferably a- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ether, commercially available as Sensiva ® SC 50 (ex Schülke & Mayr), carboxylic acid esters of mono-, di- and triglycerol (eg glycerol monolaurate, diglycerol monocaprinate), lantibiotics and plant extracts (eg green tea and components of lime blossom oil).
  • Sensiva ® SC 50 ex Schülke & Mayr
  • carboxylic acid esters of mono-, di- and triglycerol eg glycerol monolaurate, diglycerol monocaprinate
  • lantibiotics and plant extracts eg green tea and components of lime blossom oil.
  • Antibacterial substances especially for deodorants can be selected from the group of linear, branched and unbranched, but also aromatic alcohols and acids, for example phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, benzylheptanol and others.
  • Further preferred antimicrobial active ingredients are selected from so-called prebiotically active components, which according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those components which inhibit only or at least predominantly the odor or acne-forming germs of the skin microflora, but not the desired, that is, the non-odor-causing or not -Anmaking germs that belong to a healthy skin microflora.
  • active ingredients which are disclosed in the published patent applications DE 10333245 and DE 10 2004 01 1 968 as prebiotically effective, also included; these include conifer extracts, in particular from the group of Pinaceae, and plant extracts from the group of Sapindaceae, Aralia ceae, Lamiaceae and Saxifragaceae, in particular extracts of Picea spp., Paullinia sp., Panax sp., Lamium album or Ribes nigrum and mixtures of these substances,
  • Antiperspirant active ingredients have a pore-astringent action and are therefore frequently used in skin treatment preparations for sebum suppression.
  • the amounts used for sebum suppression are usually lower than the amounts used for antiperspirancy and are in the range of 0, 1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 2 to 3 wt .-%.
  • antiperspirant products contain from 2 to 25% by weight of the antiperspirant active ingredient for a sufficient sweat-reducing effect.
  • the amount is based on the propellant composition.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention comprise at least one antiperspirant astringent active ingredient selected from the water-soluble astringent inorganic and organic salts of aluminum, zirconium and zinc or any desired mixtures of these salts.
  • Particularly preferred antiperspirant active ingredients are selected from the aluminum chlorohydrates, in particular the aluminum chlorohydrates having the general formula [Al 2 (OH) 5 Cl ⁇ 2-3 H 2 O] n , which may be present in non-activated or in activated (depolymerized) form , furthermore aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex propylene glycol (PG) or polyethylene glycol (PEG), aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PG or - PEG, aluminum PG-dichlorhydrex or aluminum PEG-dichlorhydrex, aluminum hydroxide, furthermore selected from the aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates, such as aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate , Aluminum zircon
  • water solubility is understood as meaning a solubility of at least 5% by weight at 20 ° C., that is to say amounts of at least 5 g of the antiperspirant active are soluble in 95 g of water at 20 ° C.
  • the antiperspirant active ingredients can be used as an aqueous solution.
  • Preferred anhydrous agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one activated aluminum chlorohydrate, preferably a raw material from the REACH® series from Summit-Reheis.
  • the antiperspirant effect may be enhanced by the addition of further ions such as calcium salts.
  • binder may be added, e.g. to eliminate foam during manufacture or to reduce the tendency of finished products to over-foam.
  • certain plant ingredients e.g. Green tea extract. They are intended to impart certain desired properties to a product which are related to the corresponding biological material, or to further improve existing properties or to suppress undesirable properties or reduce them as much as possible.
  • These may e.g. serve to lighten the color of the hair or skin.
  • the complex-forming substance is ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its sodium salts, such as those available under the trade name Trilon B from BASF, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and its sodium salts, ⁇ -alaninediacetic acid and its salts and phosphonic acids and their salts.
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • NTA nitrilotriacetic acid
  • the at least one complex-forming substance is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.01-0.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.08-0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain at least one deodorant active ingredient.
  • This may preferably be selected from the already mentioned antimicrobial agents.
  • an active substance which inhibits the enzymes responsible for the sweat decomposition in particular the arylsulfatase, ⁇ -glucuronidase, aminoacylase, cystathion ⁇ -lyase, esterases, lipases and / or lipoxygenase, e.g. B. trialkylcitric acid, in particular triethyl citrate, or zinc glycinate.
  • WO 03/039505 A2 WO 01/99376 A2, EP 1430879 A2, EP 1428520 A2, EP 1738803 A1, EP 1576946 A1 and DE 10216368 A1.
  • Further preferred deodorant active ingredients are odor absorbers and deodorizing ion exchangers. Silicates serve as odor absorbers, which at the same time advantageously support the rheological properties of the composition according to the invention.
  • the silicates which are particularly advantageous according to the invention include, in particular, phyllosilicates and, among these, in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, mit, beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite and talcum.
  • Odor absorbers are, for example, zeolites, Zinkricinoleat, cyclodextrins, certain metal oxides, such as. As alumina, and chlorophyll. They are preferably used in an amount of 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 0.5-7% by weight and most preferably 1-5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.
  • water-soluble polyvalent C 2 -C 9 -alkanols having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or water-soluble polyethylene glycols containing 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof are suitable for this purpose.
  • these components are selected from 1, 2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1, 2-butylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol and
  • 1,4-butylene glycol pentylene glycols such as 1, 2-pentanediol and 1, 5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1, 6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, dipropylene Glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
  • pentylene glycols such as 1, 2-pentanediol and 1, 5-pentanediol
  • hexanediols such as 1, 6-hexanediol
  • hexanetriols such as 1, 2,6-hexanetriol
  • Suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being preferred.
  • sugars and certain sugar derivatives such as fucose, rhamnose, fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose and xylose are suitable according to the invention.
  • Preferred skin care agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C 2 -C 9 -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units is selected from
  • 1,2-propylene glycol 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol,
  • Particularly preferred skin treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C 2 -C 9 -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units in total in amounts of 3 to 30% by weight. %, preferably 8 to 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 to 18 wt .-%, in each case based on the total composition is included.
  • this film preferably has a moisture-storing effect.
  • Preferred moisture storage chernde film formers are selected from polysaccharides which contain at least one deoxy-block, particularly preferably from the commercial products Fucogel ® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-1) from Solabia, Rhamnosoft ® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2) from Solabia, Fucogenol ® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-3) of Solabia and Glycofilm ® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4) of Solabia, furthermore mixtures of the aforementioned polysaccharides containing at least one deoxy sugar building block, for example the mixture of biosaccharides Gum-2 and biosaccharides Gum -3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ® from Solabia, glycosaminoglycans, more preferably
  • Benzoic acid and its derivatives for example propyl, phenyl and butyl benzoate, ammonium, sodium, potassium and magnesium benzoate
  • propionic acid and derivatives thereof for example ammonium, sodium and potassium
  • Potassium and magnesium propionate sodium, potassium and magnesium salicylate
  • salicylic acid and its derivatives eg sodium, potassium and magnesium salicylate
  • 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its esters and alkali metal salts eg methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl.
  • DEDM and DMDM hydantoin, DEDM-hydantoindilaurate), urea and urea derivatives eg diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea
  • ferulic acid and its derivatives eg ethyl ferulate
  • sorbic acid and its derivatives eg isopropyl sorbate, TEA sorbate, sodium, potassium, and magnesium sorbate
  • isothiazole and oxazole derivatives e.g., methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, dimethyloxazolidine
  • quaternary ammonium compounds e.g., Polyquaternium-42, Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quater -nium-15
  • carbamates eg, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate
  • formaldehyde and sodium formate glutaraldehyde
  • Preservatives preferred according to the invention are Phenoxyethanol, the esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and Isobutylparaben and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate and Methylisothiazolinone.
  • the amount of preservatives in the preferred compositions according to the invention is 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.01-5% by weight, and more preferably 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • These may e.g. serve to prevent corrosion of the package, e.g. of a cosmetic agent or even the corrosion of parts that otherwise come into contact with the agent.
  • Compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention furthermore preferably contain at least one skin-cooling active substance.
  • Skin-cooling active ingredients suitable according to the invention are, for example, menthol, isopulegol and menthol derivatives, eg. Menthyl lactate, menthyl glycolate, menthyl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, menthyl methyl ether, menthoxypropanediol, menthone glycerol acetal (9-methyl-6- (1-methylethyl) -1, 4-dioxaspiro (4.5) decane-2-methanol), monomethyl succinate and 2-hydroxymethyl-3,5 , 5-trimethylcyclohexanol.
  • menthol isopulegol, menthyl lactate, menthoxypropanediol and menthylpyrrolidone carboxylic acid and mixtures of these substances, in particular mixtures of menthol and menthyl lactate, menthol, Mentholglycolat and menthyl lactate, menthol and menthoxypropanediol or menthol, isopulegol or the commercial product Frescolat ® Ice are (Symrise).
  • At least one skin-cooling active substance is present in a total amount of 0.01-2% by weight, more preferably 0.02-0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.05-0.2% by weight, each based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention which are formulated as a propellant-driven aerosol, contain at least one propellant.
  • Preferred propellants are propane, propene, n-butane, isobutane, isobutene, n-pentane, pentene, isopentane, isopentene, methane, ethane, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, air, oxygen, nitrous oxide, 1, 1, 1, 3-tetrafluoroethane, heptafluoro-n-propane, perfluoro- ethane, monochlorodifluoromethane, 1,1-difluoroethane, both individually and in combination.
  • hydrophilic propellants such.
  • hydrophilic gases can be used advantageously in the context of the present invention, when the proportion of hydrophilic gases is selected low and lipophilic propellant gas (eg., Propane / butane) is present in excess.
  • propellant gas eg., Propane / butane
  • propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures of these propellants propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures of these propellants. It has been found that the use of n-butane as the only propellant gas according to the invention can be particularly preferred.
  • the amount of blowing agent is preferably 10 to 95% by weight, more preferably 20 to 90% by weight and most preferably 40 to 85% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation consisting of the composition according to the invention and the blowing agent.
  • These may preferably be added to transparent or translucent products to make them more impervious to visible light or near-infrared radiation. This may be useful for protecting the photocatalytic agent during storage in transparent or translucent containers, where appropriate; the layer thickness later applied to the skin is so low that the addition of a clouding agent does not affect the effectiveness of the photocatalytic agent.
  • UV absorbers are able to filter certain UV rays and in this way can be used e.g. Protect the skin from premature light-induced aging and sunburn. UV absorbers can also be used in small quantities as product protection.
  • ingredients may be contained according to further preferred embodiments as the sole additive or in any combination in the inventive compositions.
  • Anionic surfactants are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are the fatty acid soaps having a carbon chain of 12 to 30 carbon atoms. If the agent according to the invention is not formulated as a deodorant, further anionic surfactants may optionally be used.
  • the anionic surfactants used are then, for example, those of the sulfonate and sulfates type.
  • Suitable surfactants of the sulfonate type are preferably C 9 .i 3 -alkylbenzenesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, ie mixtures of alkene and hydroxyalkanesulfonates and also disulfonates, such as, for example, from Ci2-i8 onoolefinen with terminal or internal double bond by sulfonation with gaseous sulfur trioxide and subsequent alkaline or acidic hydrolysis of the sulfonation obtained, into consideration.
  • alkanesulfonates which are obtained from C 12 -18-alkanes, for example by sulfochlorination or sulfoxidation with subsequent hydrolysis or neutralization.
  • the esters of ⁇ -sulfo fatty acids for example the ⁇ -sulfonated methyl esters of hydrogenated coconut, palm kernel or tallow fatty acids are suitable.
  • preferred anionic surfactants have 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 20, in particular 8 to 18, particularly preferably 10 to 16, most preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms, two or more anionic, in particular two, acid groups, preferably carboxylate, sulfonate and / or sulfate groups, in particular a carboxylate and a sulfate group on.
  • Examples of these compounds are the alpha sulfo fatty acid salts, the acyl glutamates, the monoglyceride disulfates and the alkyl ethers of the glycerol disulfate, and in particular the monoester sulfosuccinates described below.
  • anionic surfactants are the sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinamates and sulfosuccinamides, especially sulfosuccinates and sulfosuccinamates, most preferably sulfosuccinates.
  • the sulfosuccinates are the salts of the mono- and di-esters of sulfosuccinic acid HOOCCH (S0 3 H) CH 2 COOH, while the sulfosuccinamates are understood to mean the salts of the monoamides of sulfosuccinic acid and the sulfosuccinamides the salts of diamides of sulfosuccinic acid ,
  • the salts are preferably alkali metal salts, ammonium salts and mono-, di- or trialkanolammonium salts, for example mono-, di- or triethanolammonium salts, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium or ammonium salts, particularly preferably sodium or ammonium salts preferably sodium salts.
  • one or both carboxyl groups of the sulfosuccinic acid is preferably with one or two identical or different unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated, acyclic or cyclic, optionally alkoxylated alcohols having 4 to 22, preferably 6 to 20, in particular 8 to 18 , more preferably 10 to 16, most preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms esterified.
  • esters of unbranched and / or saturated and / or acyclic and / or alkoxylated alcohols in particular unbranched, saturated fatty alcohols and / or unbranched, saturated, with ethylene and / or propylene oxide, preferably ethylene oxide, alkoxylated fatty alcohols having a degree of alkoxylation of 1 to 20, preferably 1 to 15, in particular 1 to 10, more preferably 1 to 6, most preferably 1 to 4.
  • the monoesters are used in the context of the present invention Invention preferred over the diesters.
  • a particularly preferred sulfosuccinate is sulphonated bernsteinklarylpolyglycolester-di-sodium salt (lauryl EO sulfosuccinate, di-sodium salt; INCI Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate), the weight, for example as Tego ® sulfosuccinate F 30 (Goldschmidt) with a sulfosuccinate 30 .-% is commercially available.
  • one or both form carboxyl groups of the sulfosuccinic acid preferably with a primary or secondary amine having one or two identical or different, unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated, acyclic or cyclic, optionally alkoxylated alkyl radicals having 4 to 22 , preferably 6 to 20, in particular 8 to 18, more preferably 10 to 16, most preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms carries, a carboxylic acid amide.
  • Particular preference is given to unbranched and / or saturated and / or acyclic alkyl radicals, in particular unbranched, saturated fatty alkyl radicals.
  • sulfosuccinates and sulfosuccinamates designated according to INCI: ammonium dinonyl sulfosuccinates, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinates, diammonium dimethicone copolyol sulfosuccinates, diammonium lauramido-MEA sulfosuccinates, diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinates, diammonium oleamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Diamyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dicapryl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dicyclohexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Diheptyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dihexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Diisobutyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dioctyl
  • anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention can vary within wide ranges, depending on the purpose of the agent in question.
  • an agent according to the invention can contain very large amounts of anionic surfactant.
  • an agent according to the invention may contain only very small amounts of anionic surfactant, for example less than 15 or 10% by weight or less than 5% by weight or even less.
  • anionic surfactants are advantageously present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 40% by weight and in particular from 5 to 30% by weight, with concentrations above 10% by weight and even above 15% by weight being particular Find favor.
  • the agent according to the invention contains anionic surfactants, preferably in amounts of at least 0.01% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the agent of the invention may be free of anionic surfactant.
  • soaps may be present in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Particularly suitable are saturated fatty acid soaps, such as the salts of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, hydrogenated erucic acid and behenic acid, and in particular of natural fatty acids, e.g. Coconut, palm kernel or tallow fatty acids, derived soap mixtures.
  • the content of the agent in soaps, independently of other anionic surfactants is preferably not more than 10% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 7.0% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the agent according to the invention is free of soap.
  • the anionic surfactants and soaps may be in the form of their sodium, potassium or ammonium salts and as soluble salts of organic bases, such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine. Preferably, they are in the form of their sodium or potassium salts, especially in the form of the sodium salts.
  • Anionic surfactants and soaps may also be prepared in situ by incorporating into the spray-dried composition the anionic surfactant acids and optionally fatty acids which are then neutralized by the alkali carriers in the spray-dried composition.
  • the skin treatment compositions according to the invention may preferably also contain at least one cat contain ionic surfactant.
  • Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, surface-active quaternary compounds, in particular having an ammonium, sulfonium, phosphonium, iodonium or arsonium group.
  • Particularly preferred cationic surfactants are the quaternary, partially antimicrobial ammonium compounds (QAV, INCI quaternary ammonium compounds) according to the general formula (R ') (R'')(R''') (R IV ) N + X " , in which R 1 to R IV are identical or different C 1-22 -alkyl 'C 7.
  • 28 - aralkyl radicals or heterocyclic radicals or in the case of an aromatic compound such as pyridine-even three groups together with the nitrogen atom forming the heterocycle, for example a Pyridinium or imidazolinium compounds, and X ⁇ halide ions, sulfate ions, hydroxide ions or similar anions are preferred
  • at least one of the radicals has a chain length of 8 to 18, in particular 12 to 16, carbon atoms.
  • QACs are prepared by reacting tertiary amines with alkylating agents, e.g. Methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also ethylene oxide produced.
  • alkylating agents e.g. Methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also ethylene oxide produced.
  • alkylating agents e.g. Methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also ethylene oxide produced.
  • alkylating agents e.g. Methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also ethylene oxide produced.
  • alkylating agents e.g. Methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecy
  • the skin-treating agents of the invention may contain one or more cationic surfactants, advantageously in amounts, based on the total composition, of from 0 to 30% by weight, more preferably greater than 0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight. , in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-%. Suitable minimum values may also be 0.5, 1, 2 or 3 wt .-%.
  • the agent according to the invention contains cationic surfactants, preferably in amounts of at least 0.1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the agent according to the invention may be free of cationic surfactant.
  • the skin treatment compositions of the invention may contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, advantageously in amounts, based on the total composition, of from 0 to 30% by weight, more preferably greater than 0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight. , in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-%.
  • the agent of the invention may be free of amphoteric surfactants.
  • the compositions according to the invention may contain only very little total surfactant, eg the total amount of surfactant may be less than 20% by weight, 15% by weight, 10% by weight or 5% by weight, advantageously even less than 3% by weight.
  • the total surfactant content is preferably at least 0.01% by weight, 0.1% by weight or 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Soluble complexing agents may preferably be used in amounts of from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 25% by weight and particularly preferably from 10% by weight to 20% by weight, of the composition according to the invention. based on the total weight of the agent, with citrates, triphosphates, phosphonates, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (eg adipic, glutaric, succinic) examples.
  • the agent of the invention may be free of soluble complexing agents.
  • the agent according to the invention preferably contains at least one complexing agent in a total amount of usually 0 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 8 wt. -%, most preferably 1, 5 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • the content of water in preferred agents according to the invention depends i.a. Accordingly, whether the agent is in liquid or solid form, is therefore preferably 0 to less than 100 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 95 wt .-%, with values of at most 5 wt .-%, in particular for solid or non-aqueous find special preference for liquid funds. Not included here was the water of crystallization present in individual raw materials, in particular the antiperspirant aluminum and / or zirconium compounds.
  • the composition of the invention contains water in an amount of more than 20 wt .-%, advantageously more than 30 wt .-%., More preferably more than 40 wt .-%, even more advantageous as 50 wt .-%, in particular 60 to 99 wt .-%, particularly preferably 70 to 98 wt .-% and most preferably 80 to 95 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • the upper limit of water may also be 80 wt%, 70 wt%, 60 wt%, 50 wt%, 40 wt%, 30 wt%, 20 wt%, or 10 Wt .-% wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • the lower limit of water may, for example, at 80 wt .-%, 70 wt .-%, 60 wt .-%, 50 wt .-%, 40 wt .-%, 30 wt .-%, 20 wt .-% or 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • the skin treatment agent according to the invention contains at least one UV-absorbing substance.
  • the at least one UV-absorbing substance is in preferred skin treatment compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-10 wt .-%, most preferably 2 wt .-% to 7 wt .-%, contain. These amounts do not include the at least one photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention which can also absorb in the UV range.
  • the agents according to the invention are in liquid form.
  • the use of both liquid organic solvents and water may be indicated. Therefore, preferred agents according to the invention optionally contain at least one solvent.
  • Solvents which can be used in preferred agents according to the invention originate, for example, from the group of monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, alkanolamines or glycol ethers, provided they are miscible with water in the concentration range indicated.
  • the solvents are selected from ethanol, n- or i-propanol, butanols, glycol, propane or butanediol, glycerol, diglyol, propyl or butyl diglycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol methyl ether, ethylene glycol ethyl ether, ethylene glycol propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono n-butyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether , Diethylene glycol ethyl ether, propylene glycol methyl, -ethyl or -propyl ether, butoxy-propoxy-propanol (BPP), dipropylene glycol monomethyl, or - ethyl,
  • alcohols which may be preferably used as cosolvents in the present invention are low molecular weight liquid polyethylene glycols, for example, polyethylene glycols having a molecular weight of 200, 300, 400 or 600.
  • suitable cosolvents are other alcohols, for example (a) lower alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and n-butanol, (b) ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, (c) C 2 -C 4 polyols such as a diol or a triol, for example ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol or mixtures thereof.
  • the agent according to the invention contains one or more solvents from the group comprising C 4 to C 4 monoalcohols, C 2 to C 6 glycols, C 3 to C 12 glycol ethers and glycerol, in particular glycerol.
  • the C 3 - to C 12 -glycol ethers according to the invention contain alkyl or alkenyl groups having less than 10 carbon atoms, preferably up to 8, in particular up to 6, more preferably 1 to 4 and most preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • Preferred d- to C 4 monoalcohols are ethanol, n-propanol, / 'so-propanol and tert-butanol.
  • Preferred C 2 to C 6 glycols are ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol and 1,6-hexanediol, especially ethylene glycol and 1,2-propylene glycol.
  • Preferred C 3 - to C 12 glycol ethers are di-, tri-, tetra- and pentaethylene glycol, di-, tri- and tetrapropylene glycol, propylene glycol monotertiary butyl ether and propylene glycol monoethyl ether and the solvents designated according to INCI butoxydiglycol, butoxyethanol, butoxyisopropanol, butoxypropanol, butyloctanol, ethoxydiglycol, ethoxyethanol , Ethyl hexanediol, isobutoxypropanol, isopentyldiol, 3-methoxybutanol, methoxyethanol, methoxyisopropanol and methoxymethylbutanol.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention comprise one or more solvents in a total amount of usually up to 90% by weight, preferably 0, 1 to 50% by weight, in particular 2 to 40% by weight, particularly preferably 3 to 30% by weight. , most preferably 5 to 15 wt .-% each based on the total agent.
  • the agent according to the invention contains at least one viscosity regulator, which preferably acts as a thickener.
  • the viscosity of the compositions according to the invention can be measured by conventional standard methods (for example Brookfield viscometer RVD-VII at 20 rpm and 20 ° C., spindle 3) and is preferably in the range from 10 to 5000 mPas.
  • Preferred liquid to gel compositions have viscosities of 20 to 4000 mPas, with values between 40 and 2000 mPas being particularly preferred.
  • Dyes can be used optionally in the composition according to the invention, wherein the amount of one or more dyes is to be chosen so small that remain after application of the agent no visible residues.
  • the agent according to the invention is free of dyes.
  • the agent according to the invention may preferably contain one or more antimicrobial agents or preservatives in an amount of usually 0.0001 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 2 wt .-%, in particular 0.0002 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0002 to 0.2 wt .-%, most preferably 0.0003 to 0, 1 wt .-%, contained ,
  • antimicrobial agents or preservatives are distinguished between bacteriostats and bactericides, fungistatics and fungicides, etc.
  • Important substances from these groups are, for example, benzalkonium chlorides and halophenols.
  • antimicrobial action and antimicrobial agent have the usual meaning within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.
  • Suitable antimicrobial agents are preferably selected from the groups of alcohols, amines, aldehydes, antimicrobial acids or their salts, carboxylic acid esters, acid amides, phenols, phenol derivatives, diphenyls, diphenylalkanes, urea derivatives, oxygen, nitrogen acetals and formal, benzamidines, phthalimide derivatives , antimicrobial surface-active compounds, quinolines, 1,2-dibromo-2,4-di-cyanobutane, iodo-2-propyl-butyl-carbamate, iodine, iodophores, peroxo compounds and any mixtures of the above.
  • the antimicrobial agent may be selected from n-propanol, i-propanol, 1,3-butanediol, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, undecylenic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2 'Hydroxydiphenylether (trichlosan), chlorhexidine, N- (4-chlorophenyl) - N- (3,4-dichlorophenyl) urea and natural antimicrobial agents of plant origin (eg from spices or herbs), animal and microbial origin.
  • plant origin eg from spices or herbs
  • antimicrobial surface-active quaternary compounds a natural antimicrobial agent of plant origin and / or a natural antimicrobial agent of animal origin, most preferably at least one natural antimicrobial agent of plant origin from the group comprising caffeine, theobromine and theophylline and essential oils such as eugenol, thymol and geraniol, and / or at least one natural antimicrobial agent of animal origin from the group, comprising enzymes such as protein from milk, lysozyme and lactoperoxidase, and / or at least one antimicrobial surface-active quaternary compound with an ammonium, sulfonium, phosphonium, iodonium - or Arsonium distr, peroxo compounds and chlorine compounds are used. Also substances of microbial origin, so-called bacteriocins, can be used. Glycine, glycine derivatives, formaldehyde, compounds which readily split off formaldehyde, formic acid and peroxide
  • quaternary ammonium compounds have been described above. Is particularly suitable, for example, benzalkonium chloride, etc. Benzalkonium halides and / or substituted benzalkonium halides are for example commercially available as Barquat ® ex Lonza, Marquat® ® ex Mason, Variquat ® ex Witco / Sherex and Hyamine ® ex Lonza and as Bardac ® ex Lonza.
  • antimicrobial agents are hexaminium N- (3-chloroallyl) as Dowicide and Dowicil ® ® ex Dow, Benzethonium as Hyamine ® 1622 ex Rohm & Haas, methylbenzethonium as Hyamine ® 10X ex Rohm & Haas, cetylpyridinium chloride such Cepacol ex Merrell Labs.
  • amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2 to 30, preferably 2 to 15, amino acids.
  • the oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC 2 -C 2 4-acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides, which may be N-acylated and / or esterified.
  • amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit cells of the immune system, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then induce, or are capable of, repair processes in the tissue, eg collagen synthesis, via the release of growth factors To bind the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus to release active TGF-ß (tissue growth factor), which induces the synthesis of collagen in dermal fibroblasts.
  • TSP-1 thrombospondin I
  • TGF-ß tissue growth factor
  • N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val- Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-.beta.-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester (eg, calmosensins from Sederma), carnosine (.beta. His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg.
  • acetyl-citrullyl-arginine eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine
  • Tyr-Arg dipeptide-1
  • Val- Trp dipeptide-2
  • N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" from GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component
  • the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as the copper salt (Cu 2+ ) and can be purchased as such via ProCyte Corporation.
  • a further preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCI).
  • tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg which is obtainable, for example, under the name Collasyn 314-GR from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.
  • N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are selected from Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides.
  • Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg.
  • Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, z. B. is available under the name Eyeliss of Sederma, but also forms part of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma.
  • the Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are rearranged and / or in which Rigin a maximum of two amino acids are substituted, for.
  • the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg.
  • at least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a Pro or Arg, and more preferably, the Tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary.
  • Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred.
  • ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B.
  • ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), eg, Gin, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline, and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups.
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as obtainable, for example, in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma.
  • the polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC 2 -C 2 4-acylamino acids are preferably selected from vegetable and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are z.
  • Vegetable protein hydrolysates eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates.
  • Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ® (Diamalt) Gluadin ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda).
  • soy protein hydrolysates more preferably soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400 to 1700 daltons, e.g. B. under the trade name Ridulisse C ® available from the company Silab, and soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 600 - 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, z.
  • Ridulisse C ® available from the company Silab
  • Phytokine ® from Coletica.
  • the polymers of the amino acids are selected from DNA repair enzymes.
  • DNA repair enzymes preferred according to the invention are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter abbreviated to "T4N5" below. These two enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes. DNA repair is defined as the cleavage or removal of UV-induced pyrimidine dimers from the DNA.
  • Photolyase is the abbreviation for deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3.
  • a particularly efficient photolyase is derived from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine microorganism. The photolyase from A. nidulans is now obtained in technically relevant quantities from E. coli. Photolyase relies on light for activation.
  • the enzyme T4 endonuclease V is produced by the cfenV gene of bacteriophage T4 and belongs to the phosphodiesterases which hydrolytically cleave the nucleic acids at the (5 ' -3 ' ) bond.
  • T4N5 is also active without the influence of light.
  • Liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes are commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosome TM, liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. B. under the name Ultrasome TM from AGI Dermatics, USA, available.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the commercial products Photosomes TM or Ultrasomes TM in total amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5.0% by weight and more preferably 1.0% - 4.0 wt .-%, based on the total composition of the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one monomer, oligomer or polymer of amino acids, NC 2 -C 2 -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances in total amounts of 0.0000001-10 Wt .-%, preferably 0.001 - 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01 - 1 - 2 - 3 wt .-%, each based on the active substance content in the total composition according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one DNA oligonucleotide or at least one RNA oligonucleotide.
  • an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges.
  • the nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in ß-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid.
  • the mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine-5 'triphosphate).
  • CMP cytidine 5'-monophosphate
  • UDP uridine 5'-diphosphate
  • ATP adenosine 5-triphosphate
  • GTP guanosine-5 'triphosphate
  • An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one DNA oligonucleotide and / or one RNA oligonucleotide in total amounts of 0.000001-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.0001-0.5 wt.%, And particularly preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one natural betaine compound.
  • Natural betaine compounds of the invention are naturally occurring compounds having the atomic grouping R 3 N + -CH 2 -X-COO " according to IUPAC Rule C-816.1 So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge at N or P and the negative charge is formally O, S, B or C, but does not conform to IUPAC Rule C-816.1
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight. , in each case based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • Particularly preferred vitamin A components according to the invention are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol, and also esters thereof, such as retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to the photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention, they contain at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin group A or at least one ester thereof in total amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0 , 05 - 0.05 - 1 wt .-%, based on the total composition.
  • Preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of group C and their esters are vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl.
  • vitamin C ascorbic acid
  • vitamin C ascorbic acid
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the said compounds of the vitamin C type in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 - 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • the vitamin E group includes tocopherol, especially ⁇ -tocopherol, and its derivatives.
  • Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one substance selected from tocopherol and its derivatives in a total amount of from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 1 - 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B 7 (see above).
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin K in a total amount of 0001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 0.01% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 0.5 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.
  • Vitamin A palmitate (retinyl palmitate), pantolactone, nicotinamide, pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, and the tocopherol esters, especially tocopheryl acetate, are particularly preferred in the present invention.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention, at least one ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid, ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acid or ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form.
  • Preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids or ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, Hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, Pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid.
  • Particularly preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid.
  • a particularly preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid.
  • the esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention at least one ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid, ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acid and / or ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid or a derivative, in particular an ester, a lactone or a Salt thereof, in a total amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0 1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition ,
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extra kt.
  • the flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the flavanans, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), the aurones and the isoflavones.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one flavonoid in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the flavonoid active substance in the entire cosmetic composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract.
  • the isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted at this point as isoflavonoids.
  • isoflavones are to be understood as meaning substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, hydrogenation of which may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation under Formation of a carbonyl group in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand.
  • the isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin.
  • Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the Isoflavonoidulphsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one polyphenol or one polyphenol-rich plant extract.
  • polyphenols are aromatic compounds which contain at least two phenolic hydroxyl groups in the molecule. These include the three dihydroxybenzenes catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, as well as phloroglucin, pyrogallol and hexa-hydroxybenzene.
  • Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechins, usnic acid, and as tannins the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and digalloylgallic acid.
  • the polyphenols are preferred in amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight and most preferably from 0.01 to 3% by weight, based in each case on the weight of Commercial product containing at least one polyphenol, used in the entire composition of the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof.
  • Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones.
  • the preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (UBI-I):
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one ubiquinone, ubiquinol or a derivative thereof in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.005 to 0, 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.
  • compositions according to the invention contain silymarin.
  • silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was previously regarded as a uniform substance.
  • the main constituents of silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydianin, which belong to the group of flavanolignans.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain silymarin in amounts of from 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 0.01% by weight and more preferably from 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one naturally occurring xanthine derivative selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline.
  • the naturally occurring xanthine derivatives are preferred in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably from 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on entire composition, included.
  • the compositions according to the invention contain ectoine. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate.
  • ectoine is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one active substance which is selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters.
  • polyhydroxystilbenes are understood to mean stilbenes which are substituted by 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 hydroxyl groups on the two phenyl radicals, it being possible for these to be esterified.
  • Mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.
  • Particularly preferred hydroxystilbenes and their esters according to the invention are selected from resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol), the resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric acid esters and their salts.
  • An inventively particularly preferred Resveratrolphosphorklareester is trisodium resveratrol triphosphates, z. Available from Ajinomoto.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active agent selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters, in a total amount of 0.000001-5% by weight, preferably 0.00001-1 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 0, 1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005 - 0.05 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one derivative of methylated silanol, preferably at least one ester of methylated silanol.
  • Preferred derivatives of methylated silanol are selected from: sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (algisium, exsymol); methylsilanol mannuronate (Algisium C®, exsymol); methylsilanol mannuronate Nylon-12 (Algisium C powder®, exsymol); ascorbylmethylsilanol (ascorbosilane concentrate C®, exsymol); ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (ascorbosilane C®, exsymol); dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC®, exsymol); dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane nylon-12 (DSBC powder®, exsymol); sodium
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one derivative of methylated silanol in total amounts of 0.001-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.005-1 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 wt based on the active substance in the entire composition according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention contain phytic acid.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain phytic acid in a total amount of 0.001-1% by weight, preferably 0.01-0.5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.05-0.1% by weight. -%, in each case based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one skin-lightening active ingredient.
  • Skin-lightening active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected individually or in mixtures from hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, extracts from licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra), extracts from different parts of the mulberry tree (Morus spp., In particular from Morus alba and in particular extracts from the bark, the strain , leaves and fruits), extracts of Scutellaria spp.
  • compositions according to the invention also contain at least one astringent active ingredient which leads to a temporary narrowing of the skin pores, for example tannins or tanning agents or polyphenols in general, furthermore aluminum salts, such as are also used as antiperspirant active ingredients. These agents regulate the amount of sebum on the skin surface by delaying sebum leakage.
  • compositions according to the invention also contain at least one sebum-regulating active substance which inhibits the enzyme 5-alpha-reductase which is involved in the activity of the sebaceous glands.
  • Preferred inhibitors of 5-alpha-reductase are selected from finasteride ®, 4-androstene-3-one-17.beta.-carboxylic acid, (4R) -5, 10-seco-19-norpregna-4,5-diene-3, 10, 20-trian, (5-alpha, 20-R) -4-diazo-21-hydroxy-20-methylpregnan-3-one, 4-azasteroid, especially 17 ⁇ -N, N-diethylcarbamoyl-4-methyl-4-aza 5-alpha-androstan-3-one, 17-alpha-acetoxy-6-methylene pregn-4-ene-3,20-dione, 3-carboxyandrosta-3,5-diene steroid derivatives and 3-carboxy A ring-aryl steroids, 3-
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one inhibitor of 5-alpha reductase in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one deoxy sugar or a polysaccharide containing at least one deoxy sugar building block.
  • Preferred deoxysugars according to the invention are selected from rhamnose and fucose.
  • An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product fucogel ® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum -1.
  • Another inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Rhamnosoft ® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2.
  • An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Fucogenol ® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-third
  • An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Glycofilm ® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-fourth
  • the invention furthermore given to mixtures of the above, containing at least one deoxy-block polysaccharides, for example the mixture of Biosaccharide Gum-2 and Biosaccharide Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ® from Solabia are.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one polysaccharide containing deoxy sugar and / or at least one deoxy sugar building block in total amounts of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight and more preferably 0, 1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the invention.
  • a second object of this invention is a method of increasing and maintaining skin hydration over a period of at least 72 hours wherein a cosmetic composition of the first subject of the invention is applied to the skin and remains there for at least 30 minutes to several hours.
  • a third object of the present invention is finally the use of a cosmetic agent of the first subject of the invention for maintaining the skin moisture for at least 72 h.
  • composition according to the invention of the example "2.1 Bodylotion” was tested in comparison to the formulation with the name V1 by means of the method of corneometer measurement in comparison to an untreated sample The measured values were measured after 6, 24, 48 and 72 h on the forearm shown in Table 1.
  • the composition of the invention significantly improves skin hydration over 72 hours after only one application.
  • the comparison formula also improves skin hydration after single use, but only significantly compared to untreated skin. This is all the more surprising as the prior art formulation with urea, sorbitol and hydroxyethyl urea contains three of those skilled in the art as very good moisturizers for the skin.

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  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
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  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un produit pour le nettoyage et le soin de la peau et des cheveux basé sur une combinaison spéciale de principes actifs pour augmenter l'hydratation dermique et maintenir cette hydratation dermique pendant 72 heures, un procédé de nettoyage et de soin de la peau et des cheveux contenant cette combinaison de principes actifs, ainsi que l'utilisation du produit pour les soins du corps pour atteindre jusqu'à 72 h d'augmentation soutenue de l'hydratation dermique. L'invention concerne donc un produit pour le nettoyage et en particulier pour le soin de la peau et des cheveux contenant, dans un support cosmétique, a) 0,1 à 5,0 % en poids d'acide pyrrolidone-carboxylique ou d'un sel physiologiquement acceptable de celui-ci, b) 0,1 à 5,0 % en poids d'acide lactique ou d'un sel physiologiquement acceptable de celui-ci et c) au moins un acide aminé en une quantité totale de 0,01 à 10,0 % en poids.
PCT/EP2012/073194 2011-12-22 2012-11-21 Produit pour le soin du corps avec hydratation dermique améliorée WO2013092080A1 (fr)

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DE201110089612 DE102011089612A1 (de) 2011-12-22 2011-12-22 Körperpflegemittel mit verbesserter Hautfeuchte
DE102011089612.0 2011-12-22

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US10086035B2 (en) 2016-02-04 2018-10-02 ALASTIN Skincare, Inc. Compositions and methods for invasive and non-invasive procedural skincare
US20190151214A1 (en) * 2017-11-21 2019-05-23 Topix Pharmaceuticals, Inc. Methods and compositions for treatment of skin
US10493011B2 (en) 2017-08-03 2019-12-03 ALASTIN Skincare, Inc. Peptide compositions and methods for ameliorating skin laxity and body contour
US10993896B2 (en) 2015-05-01 2021-05-04 L'oreal Compositions for altering the color of hair
US11026873B2 (en) * 2015-12-31 2021-06-08 Colgate-Palmolive Company Personal care composition comprising taurine, arginine, glycine
US11083675B2 (en) 2015-11-24 2021-08-10 L'oreal Compositions for altering the color of hair
US11090249B2 (en) 2018-10-31 2021-08-17 L'oreal Hair treatment compositions, methods, and kits for treating hair
US11103455B2 (en) 2018-08-02 2021-08-31 ALASTIN Skincare, Inc. Liposomal compositions and methods of use
US11135150B2 (en) 2016-11-21 2021-10-05 L'oreal Compositions and methods for improving the quality of chemically treated hair
US11213470B2 (en) 2015-11-24 2022-01-04 L'oreal Compositions for treating the hair
US11419809B2 (en) 2019-06-27 2022-08-23 L'oreal Hair treatment compositions and methods for treating hair
US11433011B2 (en) 2017-05-24 2022-09-06 L'oreal Methods for treating chemically relaxed hair
WO2022225048A1 (fr) * 2021-04-23 2022-10-27 ミヨシ油脂株式会社 Mélange mettant en œuvre un acide aminé et un acide carboxylique, sel organique, composition contenant ceux-ci, et application de cette composition
US11596588B2 (en) 2017-12-29 2023-03-07 L'oreal Compositions for altering the color of hair

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EP3641725A1 (fr) 2017-06-23 2020-04-29 The Procter and Gamble Company Composition et procédé permettant d'améliorer l'aspect de la peau
KR20200125628A (ko) * 2018-02-26 2020-11-04 다니스코 유에스 인크. 스킨 케어 유익성을 제공하기 위한 조성물 및 사용 방법
WO2020010036A1 (fr) 2018-07-03 2020-01-09 The Procter & Gamble Company Méthode de traitement d'une affection cutanée
US10959933B1 (en) 2020-06-01 2021-03-30 The Procter & Gamble Company Low pH skin care composition and methods of using the same
WO2021247496A1 (fr) 2020-06-01 2021-12-09 The Procter & Gamble Company Méthode d'amélioration de la pénétration d'un composé de vitamine b3 dans la peau

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US10993896B2 (en) 2015-05-01 2021-05-04 L'oreal Compositions for altering the color of hair
US12048759B2 (en) 2015-11-24 2024-07-30 L'oreal Compositions for treating the hair
US11213470B2 (en) 2015-11-24 2022-01-04 L'oreal Compositions for treating the hair
US11191706B2 (en) 2015-11-24 2021-12-07 L'oreal Compositions for altering the color of hair
US11083675B2 (en) 2015-11-24 2021-08-10 L'oreal Compositions for altering the color of hair
US11026873B2 (en) * 2015-12-31 2021-06-08 Colgate-Palmolive Company Personal care composition comprising taurine, arginine, glycine
US10688147B2 (en) 2016-02-04 2020-06-23 ALASTIN Skincare, Inc. Compositions and methods for invasive and non-invasive procedural skincare
US10286030B2 (en) 2016-02-04 2019-05-14 Alastin Skincare, Inc Compositions and methods for invasive and non-invasive procedural skincare
US10086035B2 (en) 2016-02-04 2018-10-02 ALASTIN Skincare, Inc. Compositions and methods for invasive and non-invasive procedural skincare
US11426442B2 (en) 2016-02-04 2022-08-30 ALASTIN Skincare, Inc. Compositions and methods for invasive and non-invasive procedural skincare
US11426443B2 (en) 2016-02-04 2022-08-30 ALASTIN Skincare, Inc. Compositions and methods for invasive and non-invasive procedural skincare
US11135150B2 (en) 2016-11-21 2021-10-05 L'oreal Compositions and methods for improving the quality of chemically treated hair
US11433011B2 (en) 2017-05-24 2022-09-06 L'oreal Methods for treating chemically relaxed hair
US11052032B2 (en) 2017-08-03 2021-07-06 ALASTIN Skincare, Inc. Peptide compositions and methods for ameliorating skin laxity and body contour
US11752084B2 (en) 2017-08-03 2023-09-12 ALASTIN Skincare, Inc. Methods for fat reduction or elimination of lipid droplets
US10493011B2 (en) 2017-08-03 2019-12-03 ALASTIN Skincare, Inc. Peptide compositions and methods for ameliorating skin laxity and body contour
US20190151214A1 (en) * 2017-11-21 2019-05-23 Topix Pharmaceuticals, Inc. Methods and compositions for treatment of skin
US11596588B2 (en) 2017-12-29 2023-03-07 L'oreal Compositions for altering the color of hair
US11103455B2 (en) 2018-08-02 2021-08-31 ALASTIN Skincare, Inc. Liposomal compositions and methods of use
US12053547B2 (en) 2018-08-02 2024-08-06 ALASTIN Skincare, Inc. Liposomal compositions and methods of use
US11090249B2 (en) 2018-10-31 2021-08-17 L'oreal Hair treatment compositions, methods, and kits for treating hair
US11975092B2 (en) 2018-10-31 2024-05-07 L'oreal Hair treatment compositions, methods, and kits for treating hair
US11419809B2 (en) 2019-06-27 2022-08-23 L'oreal Hair treatment compositions and methods for treating hair
WO2022225048A1 (fr) * 2021-04-23 2022-10-27 ミヨシ油脂株式会社 Mélange mettant en œuvre un acide aminé et un acide carboxylique, sel organique, composition contenant ceux-ci, et application de cette composition

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