WO2024065763A1 - Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques - Google Patents

Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024065763A1
WO2024065763A1 PCT/CN2022/123490 CN2022123490W WO2024065763A1 WO 2024065763 A1 WO2024065763 A1 WO 2024065763A1 CN 2022123490 W CN2022123490 W CN 2022123490W WO 2024065763 A1 WO2024065763 A1 WO 2024065763A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
hydroxypropane
carnosine
extract
composition according
Prior art date
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PCT/CN2022/123490
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English (en)
Inventor
Wanze WANG
Shanshan ZANG
Xinxin Chen
Mei Zhang
Yici ZHAO
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L'oreal
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Priority to PCT/CN2022/123490 priority Critical patent/WO2024065763A1/fr
Priority to FR2211941A priority patent/FR3140266A1/fr
Publication of WO2024065763A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024065763A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4946—Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9728—Fungi, e.g. yeasts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition.
  • the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials.
  • the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials.
  • the skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body from physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi) .
  • compositions providing skin barrier repairing and anti-aging effect.
  • the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
  • -R represents a saturated C 1 to C 10 , in particular C 1 to C 4 , alkyl radical which can optionally be substituted by at least one radical selected from OH, COOH or COOR” 2 , with R” 2 being a saturated C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical,
  • -S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form and of the L and/or D series, it being possible for the said monosaccharide or polysaccharide to be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional group (s) , and
  • -X represents a radical selected from the–CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH 2 ) -, -CH (NHCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH) -, -CH (NHPh) -and–CH (CH 3 ) -groups and in particular a–CO-, -CH (OH) -or–CH (NH 2 ) -radical and more particularly a–CH (OH) -radical,
  • the S-CH 2 -X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be ⁇ or ⁇ ,
  • composition of the present invention shows significant better in anti-aging relevant attribute such as skin firmness improvement and shows much lower transdermal water loss which represent better skin barrier function.
  • the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.
  • Fig. 1 shows sensory profiles of compositions of invention example 5 and comparative example 3, wherein the solid line stands for composition of invention example 5, and the dotted line stands for composition of comparative example 3.
  • keratin materials is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
  • the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
  • composition of the present invention comprises Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.
  • Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone is a polyphenol of natural oxygen with a large antioxidant potential over a very broad spectrum of several species of radicals, which is capable of acting on three cellular targets: membrane, nucleus and cytoplasm.
  • Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone is part of the dihydrochalcones family, which is part of the flavonoids class.
  • Neohesperidin DHC is a glycosylated flavonoid which has the following structure:
  • Neohesperidin DHC (CAS number 20702-77-6) may especially be obtained either from neohesperidin which may be extracted from bitter orange (Citrus aurantium) or from naringin which is obtained from grapefruit (Citrus paradisii) .
  • Synthesis from extracted neohesperidin involves hydrogenation in the presence of a catalyst under alkaline conditions.
  • Synthesis from naringin is based on the conversion thereof to give phloroacetophenone-4'- ⁇ -neohesperidoside, which may be condensed with isovanillin (3-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzaldehyde) to produce neohesperidin (see the following references: Borrego, F. Sweeteners (3rd edition) , 2007, 67-77 and Borrego, F; Montijano, H. Food Science and Technology, 2001, 112 (Alternatives Sweeteners) , 87-104) .
  • Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone is especially available under the commercial reference Neohesperidin DC from HEALTHTECH BIOACTIVES (FERRER) .
  • Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone may exist in the hydrate form.
  • neohesperidin dihydrochalcone is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside selected from compounds of formula (I) :
  • -R represents a saturated C 1 to C 10 , in particular C 1 to C 4 , alkyl radical which can optionally be substituted by at least one radical selected from OH, COOH or COOR” 2 , with R” 2 being a saturated C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical,
  • -S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form and of the L and/or D series, it being possible for the said monosaccharide or polysaccharide to be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional group (s) , and
  • -X represents a radical selected from the–CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH 2 ) -, -CH (NHCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH) -, -CH (NHPh) -and–CH (CH 3 ) -groups and in particular a–CO-, -CH (OH) -or–CH (NH 2 ) -radical and more particularly a–CH (OH) -radical,
  • the S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be ⁇ or ⁇ , and also their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as the hydrates, and their optical and geometrical isomers.
  • the C-glycoside of use for the implementation of the invention are in particular those for which R denotes a saturated linear C 1 to C 6 , in particular C 1 to C 4 , preferentially C 1 to C 2 , alkyl radical and more preferably a methyl radical.
  • a monosaccharide of the invention can be selected from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and in particular D-xylose.
  • a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar units can be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which can advantageously be selected from xylobiose, methyl- ⁇ -xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose and in particular xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.
  • S can represent a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.
  • -R denotes an unsubstituted linear C 1 -C 4 , in particular C 1 -C 2 , alkyl radical, especially a methyl radical;
  • -S represents a monosaccharide as described above and selected in particular from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
  • -X represents a group selected from-CO-, -CH (OH) -or-CH (NH 2 ) -and preferably a-CH (OH) -group.
  • the acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention comprise conventional non-toxic salts of the said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the salts of inorganic acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid. Mention may also be made of the salts of organic acids, which can comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.
  • neutralization of the acid group (s) can be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca (OH) 2 , NH 4 OH, Mg (OH) 2 or Zn (OH) 2 , or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine.
  • an inorganic base such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca (OH) 2 , NH 4 OH, Mg (OH) 2 or Zn (OH) 2
  • organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine.
  • This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine can comprise one or more nitrogen and/or oxygen atoms and can thus comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; mention may in particular be made of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2- (dimethylamino) propanol or 2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl) -1, 3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3- (dimethylamino) propylamine.
  • solvates which are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention comprise conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of the said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the solvates due to the presence of water or of linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.
  • a C-glycoside corresponding to the formula (I) can be used alone or as a mixture with other C-glycoside and in any proportion.
  • a C-glycoside which is suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthetic method described in the document WO 02/051828.
  • C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and better still C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can advantageously be used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.
  • the C-glycoside can be C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) provided in the form of a solution containing 70%by weight of active material in water and propylene glycol.
  • the C-glycoside is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 25%, preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 15 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one carnosine compound.
  • the carnosine compound is selected from compounds of formula (II)
  • R1 represents H or CH3 and R2 represents H or COOH, or salts thereof.
  • salts of compounds of formula (II) are preferably salts of compounds of formula (II) with mineral acids, particularly salts of formula (III) :
  • n 1, 2 or 3 and A represents HCl or HNO 3 and R1 represents H or CH 3 and R2 represents H or COOH.
  • carnosine compounds useful for the composition according to the present invention are known and are accessible by conventional processes of organic chemistry.
  • the carnosine compound is selected from carnosine, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, D/L-carnosine, carnicine, carnicine HCl salt, anserine, D-anserine, L-anserine, L-anserine HNO 3 salt, and combinations thereof.
  • the carnosine compound is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.01 wt.%to 3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises an anti-redness active ingredient.
  • anti-redness active ingredients mention can be made to madecassoside, saccharide isomerate, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, panthenol, Olea europaea (olive) leaf extract, Mentha piperita (peppermint) extract, leontopodium alpinum extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-15, boswellia serrata extract, sodium palmitoyl proline (and) nymphaea alba flower extract.
  • madecassoside saccharide isomerate, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, panthenol, Olea europaea (olive) leaf extract, Mentha piperita (peppermint) extract, leontopodium alpinum extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl t
  • the compositon of the present invention comprises at least one anti-redness active ingredient selected from madecassoside, saccharide isomerate, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, panthenol, Olea europaea (olive) leaf extract, Mentha piperita (peppermint) extract, leontopodium alpinum extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-15, boswellia serrata extract, sodium palmitoyl proline (and) nymphaea alba flower extract, and a combination thereof.
  • anti-redness active ingredient selected from madecassoside, saccharide isomerate, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, panthenol, Olea europaea (olive) leaf extract, Mentha piperita (peppermint) extract, leontopodium alpinum extract, dipotassium glycyr
  • the composition of the present invention comprises leontopodium alpinum extract, in particular, leontopodium alpinum callus culture extract, as anti-redness active ingredient.
  • the anti-redness active ingredient is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10%, preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises a truffle extract.
  • Truffle is the common name given to the edible fruiting body of an ectomycorrhizal ascomyscetes fungus which takes a more or less globular form. The fungus may produce several truffles.
  • the truffle (s) which may be used within the context of the invention are preferentially truffles of the genus Tuber, of the Tuberaceae family, in the Pezizales order. There are more than a hundred species thereof. Among the latter, mention may especially be made of black (Périgord) truffle (Tuber melanosporum) , white (Piedmont) truffle (Tuber magnatum) , white (summer) truffle (Tuber aestivum) , winter truffle (Tuber Brumale) , bianchetto truffle (Tuber borchii) , or else Chinese truffles (Tuber sinensis and Tuber indicum) .
  • the truffle (s) used within the context of the invention are selected from white truffles and black truffles.
  • the truffle (s) used within the context of the invention are black (Périgord) truffle (Tuber melanosporum) , white (summer) truffle (Tuber aestivum) , or a mixture of the two.
  • the truffle extract (s) may especially be obtained from an extraction solvent by using an extraction technique selected from the extraction techniques well known from the prior art.
  • the extraction solvent is chosen from water, water-soluble or water-miscible solvents (hydrophilic solvents) , and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrophilic solvents mention may especially be made of substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
  • substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol
  • polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
  • the truffle extract is said to be aqueous.
  • the truffle extract is said to be alcoholic.
  • the truffle extract is said to be glycolic.
  • the extract is said to be aqueous-alcoholic.
  • the extract is said to be aqueous-glycolic.
  • the truffle extract (s) are obtained from an extraction solvent comprising water.
  • the truffle extract (s) are then aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or aqueous-glycolic.
  • the truffle extract (s) are aqueous or aqueous-glycolic.
  • the truffle extract is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10%, preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises a Salvia miltiorrhiza extract.
  • the Salvia miltiorrhiza extract comprises a lot of components.
  • the Salvia miltiorrhiza extract in the invention comprises tanshinone II A, Danshensu and Salvianolic acid, and the weight percentage of tanshinone II A is 1-60%, and the weight percentage of Danshensu is 1-60%, the weight percentage of Salvianolic acid is 1-60%; preferably, the weight percentage of tanshinone IIA is 20-40%, the weight percentage of Danshensu is 20-40%, the weight percentage of Salvianolic acid is 20-40%.
  • composition of the present invention comprises Salvia miltiorrhiza extract, in particular, Salvia miltiorrhiza leaf extract.
  • the Salvia miltiorrhiza extract is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10%, preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase.
  • Said aqueous phase comprises water.
  • the aqueous phase comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25°C) selected from glycols and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof, so as to provide a hydration effect.
  • an organic solvent miscible with water selected from glycols and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof, so as
  • the organic solvent miscible with water selected from glycols and polyols is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition of the present invention comprises water and glycerin.
  • aqueous phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 70 wt. %to 99.8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise a fatty phase.
  • the fatty phase preferably contains at least one oil, notably a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.
  • oil means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • non-volatile refers to an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .
  • volatile oil means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • a fatty phase that is suitable for preparing the compositions, notably cosmetic compositions, accordingto the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-O group.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-basedoil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • the fatty phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise one or more additional cosmetic active ingredient in addition to cosmetic active ingredients mentioned above.
  • vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin E (tocopherol) , vitamin C (ascorbic acid) , vitamin B5 (panthenol) , vitamin B3 (niacinamide) , and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; alpha-hydroxyacids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; sunscreens; extracts from algae, fungi, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; other moisturing agents such as hydroxyethyl urea, agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition of the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance fragrances, preserving agents (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, surfactants, pH regulators (for example citric acid) , thickeners such as xanthan gum and acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
  • fragrances for instance, preserving agents (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, surfactants, pH regulators (for example citric acid) , thickeners such as xanthan gum and acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
  • preserving agents for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol
  • bactericides for example, bactericides, surfactants, pH regulators (for example citric acid)
  • pH regulators for example citric acid
  • thickeners such as xant
  • composition according to the present invention further comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • composition can provide a less smooth texture, which makes it easier for the composition of invention example to keep its shape and deliver a unique appearance.
  • the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • carnosine compound selected from carnosine, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, D/L-carnosine, carnicine, carnicine HCl salt, anserine, D-anserine, L-anserine, L-anserine HNO 3 salt, and combinations thereof;
  • composition of the present invention may be in the form of gel, cream, or lotion.
  • composition of the present invention can be used for caring for keratin materials, for example, the human skin, especially facial skin or the skin around eyes.
  • the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.
  • compositions of invention examples (IE. ) 1-5 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-3 were prepared according to the amounts given in Tables 2 and 3. The amount of each component is given in%by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.
  • composition of invention examples 1-5 are compositions according to the present invention.
  • Composition of comparative example 1 does not comprise neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.
  • Composition of comparative examples 2-3 do not comprise neohesperidin dihydrochalcone and a carnosine compound.
  • compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking the composition of invention example 5 as an example:
  • compositions of invention examples (IE. ) 1-4 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-2 were evaluated in terms of skin barrier function through trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and anti-aging effect through skin firmness and length of wrinkles.
  • TEWL trans epidermal water loss
  • TEWL Trans epidermal water loss
  • compositions to be evaluated were evenly applied on the test area–inner forearm under at 2.0 mg/cm 2 in a room at 20-22°C with a relative humidity of40%-50%.
  • Trans epidermal water loss was measured with a vapometer at T 0 (the time just before applyingthe test compositions) and T 1h (1 hour after applyingthe test compositions) .
  • increase rate ofTrans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) at T 1h as compared with T 0 was used to evaluate the effect for improving skin barrier function of the test compositions.
  • compositions were invited to use compositions to be tested for 4 weeks and evaluated the compositions in terms of skin firmness by dermatologists.
  • compositions of invention examples 1-3 deliver better skin barrier function and anti-aging effect.
  • compositions of invention example 5 and comparative example 3 were evaluated by a trained expert panel in random for 37 attributes. Results were presented in the form of sensory profiles accompanied by their mean data. Threshold for significant difference in the test is fixed at 5%and 10%.
  • composition of invention example 5 shows less smooth texture and delivers less cooling feel during application, as compared with composition of comparative example 3, while composition of invention example 5 is comparable to composition of comparative example 3 in terms of skin finish and application.
  • composition of invention example to keep its shape and deliver a unique appearance.

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques comprenant : (i) de la néohespéridine dihydrochalcone; (ii) au moins un C-glycoside; et (iii) au moins un composé carnosine. L'invention concerne également un procédé non thérapeutique pour le soin des matières kératiniques comprenant l'application de ladite composition sur les matières kératiniques.
PCT/CN2022/123490 2022-09-30 2022-09-30 Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques WO2024065763A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

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PCT/CN2022/123490 WO2024065763A1 (fr) 2022-09-30 2022-09-30 Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques
FR2211941A FR3140266A1 (fr) 2022-09-30 2022-11-17 Composition de soin des matières kératineuses

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PCT/CN2022/123490 WO2024065763A1 (fr) 2022-09-30 2022-09-30 Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques

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