WO2024065606A1 - Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques - Google Patents
Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2024065606A1 WO2024065606A1 PCT/CN2022/123071 CN2022123071W WO2024065606A1 WO 2024065606 A1 WO2024065606 A1 WO 2024065606A1 CN 2022123071 W CN2022123071 W CN 2022123071W WO 2024065606 A1 WO2024065606 A1 WO 2024065606A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- hydroxypropane
- composition
- composition according
- extract
- propan
- Prior art date
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 113
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 229920001525 carrageenan Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 40
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 28
- 229930182476 C-glycoside Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 150000000700 C-glycosides Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 238000002560 therapeutic procedure Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 235000010418 carrageenan Nutrition 0.000 claims description 34
- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 claims description 33
- CSCPPACGZOOCGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetone Chemical compound CC(C)=O CSCPPACGZOOCGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 32
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- 239000000679 carrageenan Substances 0.000 claims description 20
- 229940113118 carrageenan Drugs 0.000 claims description 20
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 15
- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000004480 active ingredient Substances 0.000 claims description 13
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- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 11
- KOGFZZYPPGQZFZ-QVAPDBTGSA-N (2s,3r,4s,5r)-2-(2-hydroxypropyl)oxane-3,4,5-triol Chemical compound CC(O)C[C@@H]1OC[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O KOGFZZYPPGQZFZ-QVAPDBTGSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- DSAOTEZSRTZBDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[3-[[dimethyl(trimethylsilyloxy)silyl]oxy-methyl-trimethylsilyloxysilyl]propoxy]ethyl dihydrogen phosphate Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)CCCOCCOP(O)(O)=O DSAOTEZSRTZBDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 10
- 150000002772 monosaccharides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 10
- 125000002467 phosphate group Chemical group [H]OP(=O)(O[H])O[*] 0.000 claims description 8
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- 125000003277 amino group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000001767 cationic compounds Chemical group 0.000 claims description 4
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- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910001411 inorganic cation Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
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- BSXFOBDOGHFWOC-KRCBVYEFSA-N (2S)-1-[(2S)-2-acetamido-3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)propanoyl]-N-[(2S)-1-[[(2S)-1-amino-1-oxo-3-phenylpropan-2-yl]amino]-1-oxo-3-phenylpropan-2-yl]pyrrolidine-2-carboxamide Chemical compound C([C@H](NC(=O)C)C(=O)N1[C@@H](CCC1)C(=O)N[C@@H](CC=1C=CC=CC=1)C(=O)N[C@@H](CC=1C=CC=CC=1)C(N)=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 BSXFOBDOGHFWOC-KRCBVYEFSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- BNMGUJRJUUDLHW-HCZMHFOYSA-N Madecassoside Chemical compound O([C@@H]1[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]([C@@H]([C@H]1O)O)OC[C@H]1O[C@H]([C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O)O)OC(=O)[C@]12CC[C@H]([C@@H]([C@H]1C=1[C@@]([C@@]3(C[C@@H](O)[C@H]4[C@](C)(CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)C[C@]4(C)[C@H]3CC=1)C)(C)CC2)C)C)[C@@H]1O[C@@H](C)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H]1O BNMGUJRJUUDLHW-HCZMHFOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- JFHZXDZUXGBFAQ-KYJUHHDHSA-N hexadecyl (2s)-2-[[(2s)-2-acetamido-3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)propanoyl]amino]-5-(diaminomethylideneamino)pentanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)[C@H](CCCN=C(N)N)NC(=O)[C@@H](NC(C)=O)CC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 JFHZXDZUXGBFAQ-KYJUHHDHSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000001312 palmitoyl group Chemical group O=C([*])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 3
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- 238000006386 neutralization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229960003966 nicotinamide Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000005152 nicotinamide Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011570 nicotinamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960003512 nicotinic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000004433 nitrogen atom Chemical group N* 0.000 description 1
- 231100000252 nontoxic Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 230000003000 nontoxic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N octane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CO AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920001542 oligosaccharide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000002482 oligosaccharides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000005985 organic acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 description 1
- WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)CO WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000001147 pentyl group Chemical group C(CCCC)* 0.000 description 1
- ABLZXFCXXLZCGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N phosphonic acid group Chemical group P(O)(O)=O ABLZXFCXXLZCGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- BDERNNFJNOPAEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N propan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCO BDERNNFJNOPAEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019260 propionic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000001681 protective effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- IUVKMZGDUIUOCP-BTNSXGMBSA-N quinbolone Chemical compound O([C@H]1CC[C@H]2[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@]4(C=CC(=O)C=C4CC3)C)CC[C@@]21C)C1=CCCC1 IUVKMZGDUIUOCP-BTNSXGMBSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960003471 retinol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000020944 retinol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011607 retinol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000002914 sec-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- LIVNPJMFVYWSIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N silicon monoxide Inorganic materials [Si-]#[O+] LIVNPJMFVYWSIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 241000894007 species Species 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000006641 stabilisation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011105 stabilization Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L sulfate group Chemical group S(=O)(=O)([O-])[O-] QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 125000000542 sulfonic acid group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010189 synthetic method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000002906 tartaric acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011975 tartaric acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000000999 tert-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C(*)(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930003799 tocopherol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960001295 tocopherol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008733 trauma Effects 0.000 description 1
- LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris Chemical compound OCC(N)(CO)CO LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019155 vitamin A Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011719 vitamin A Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019160 vitamin B3 Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011708 vitamin B3 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000009492 vitamin B5 Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011675 vitamin B5 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019165 vitamin E Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940046009 vitamin E Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940045997 vitamin a Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- KPTPSLHFVHXOBZ-BIKCPUHGSA-N xylotetraose Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO[C@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)C(O)OC3)O)OC2)O)OC1 KPTPSLHFVHXOBZ-BIKCPUHGSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ABKNGTPZXRUSOI-UHFFFAOYSA-N xylotriose Natural products OCC(OC1OCC(OC2OCC(O)C(O)C2O)C(O)C1O)C(O)C(O)C=O ABKNGTPZXRUSOI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052725 zinc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition.
- the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials.
- the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials.
- the skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body from physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi) .
- hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol is a well-known ingredient which can immediately improve skin quality, result in good moisturizing and rejuvenate skin after long-term usage.
- WO2013034855A2 discloses a combination of carrageenan and c-glycoside and uses thereof. The combination can be used for improving the barrier function or the biomechanical properties of the skin.
- compositions effective in anti-aging while can deliver a good skin sensory during application.
- the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
- R represents a saturated C 1 to C 10 , in particular C 1 to C 4 , alkyl radical which can optionally be substituted by at least one radical selected from OH, COOH or COOR” 2 , with R” 2 being a saturated C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical,
- - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form and of the L and/or D series, it being possible for the said monosaccharide or polysaccharide to be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional group (s) , and
- - X represents a radical selected from the–CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH 2 ) -, -CH (NHCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH) -, -CH (NHPh) -and–CH (CH 3 ) -groups and in particular a–CO-, -CH (OH) -or–CH (NH 2 ) -radical and more particularly a–CH (OH) -radical,
- the S-CH 2 -X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be ⁇ or ⁇ ,
- composition of the present invention is effective in anti-aging while can deliver a good skin sensory during application.
- the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.
- keratin materials is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
- the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
- the composition of the present invention comprises carrageenan.
- Carrageenans are sulfated polysaccharides which constitute the cell walls of various red algae, from which they may be obtained.
- red algae mention may be made in a nonlimiting manner of Kappaphycus alvarezii, Eucheuma denticulatum, Eucheuma spinosum, Chondrus crispus, Betaphycus gelatinum, Gigartina skottsbergii, Gigartina canaliculata, Sarcothalia crispata, Mazzaella laminaroides, Hypnea musciformis, Mastocarpus stellatus and Iridaea cordata.
- Carrageenans comprise long galactan chains formed by disaccharide units. These polysaccharides are composed of an alternation of (1 ⁇ 3) ⁇ -D-galactopyranose (G unit) and (1 ⁇ 4) ⁇ -galactopyranose (D unit) or 3, 6-anhydro-a-galactopyranose (AnGal unit) . Each sugar unit may be sulfated one or more times in position 2, 3, 4 or 6. Methyl and pyruvic acid groups may also be found, along with other sugar units grafted onto the base structures described previously.
- Carrageenans were initially subdivided into subfamilies as a function of their solubility in KCI and then accordingto the number and position of the sulfate groups and the presence of 3', 6'-anhydro bridges on the galactopyranosyl residues. At least 15 carrageenans are listed, the structure of which depends on the alga of origin and on the extraction method.
- carrageenans ⁇ -carrageenan ( (1 ⁇ 3) ⁇ -D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate- (1 ⁇ 4) - ⁇ -D-galactopyranose-6-sulfate) , ⁇ -carrageenan ( (1 ⁇ 3) ⁇ -D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate- (1 ⁇ 4) 3, 6-anhydro- ⁇ -D-galactopyranose) , v-carrageenan ( (1 ⁇ 3) ⁇ -D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate- (1 ⁇ 4) - ⁇ -D-galactopyranose-2, 6-disulfate) , ⁇ -carrageenan ( (1 ⁇ 3) ⁇ -D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate- (1 ⁇ 4) 3, 6-anhydro- ⁇ -D-galactopyranose-2-sulfatesulfate) ) , ⁇ -carrageenan ( (1 ⁇ 3) ⁇ -D-D-
- carrageenans may be obtained in the form of mixtures of different structures such as, in a non-limiting manner, mixtures of the ⁇ , ⁇ and ⁇ forms.
- Carrageenans that may be used may be selected especially from carrageenans of the ⁇ , ⁇ , v, ⁇ or ⁇ type, and mixtures thereof in all proportions, preferably ⁇ type.
- Carrageenans that are particularly suitable for use in the invention are carrageenans of lambda, kappa or iota form, hybrids thereof, and mixtures thereof in all proportions. Use will be made especially of carrageenans of ⁇ form, of K form and/or of ⁇ form, or mixtures thereof.
- the carrageenans of the present invention may be used in acid form or in salified form.
- Acceptable salts that may be mentioned in a non-limiting manner include lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium, zinc and ammonium salts or the salts obtained with an organic base counterion, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary (C1-C6) alkylamine, especially triethylamine or butylamine.
- This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and/or oxygen atoms and may thus comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functions; mention may be made especially of amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, triethanolamine and dimethylamino-2-propanol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3- (dimethylamino) propylamine.
- These sulfated polysaccharides may also comprise a mixture of counterions among those defined above in a non-limiting manner.
- the molecular weight of the carrageenans that are useful for the present invention is between 300 and 100 x 10 6 daltons. Their molecular weight is preferentially between 10x 10 3 Da and 10x10 6 Da.
- the sulfur content of the carrageenans is preferentially between 5%and 25% (calculated on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the carrageenan) and more preferentially between 7%and 20%.
- Carrageenans may especially have a sulfur content from about 15%to 20%.
- carrageenans used in the invention predominantly comprise lambda ( ⁇ ) forms, or are in lambda ( ⁇ ) form.
- the term "predominantly” means that the percentage of this type of chain in the composition of the product is greater than or equal to 50%, this proportion possibly being greater than or equal to 80%in certain embodiments.
- Such carrageenans may be that sold under the names SATIAGUM TM VPC 410 by the company Cargill.
- the carrageenan is present in the composition accordingto the present invention in an amount rangingfrom 0.05 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferablyfrom 0.1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition of the present invention comprises at least one alkoxylated silicone phosphate.
- Suitable alkoxylated silicone phosphates for use in the composition of the present invention are selected from silicone compounds comprising at least one phosphate group and at least one alkoxylated chain.
- Such silicone phosphates may be selected from those which are water soluble, oil soluble, water-dispersible and/or soluble in organic solvents.
- the at least one phosphate group in the alkoxylated silicone phosphates of the present invention may be selected from terminal phosphate groups and pendant phosphate groups.
- the at least one phosphate group may be selected from groups of formula -O-P (O) (OH) 2 , groups of formula-OP (O) (OH) (OR) , and groups of formula-O-P (O) (OR) 2 , wherein R may be selected from H, inorganic cations, and organic cations.
- inorganic cations include alkali metals, such as, potassium, lithium, and sodium.
- organic cation is at least one additional silicone compound which may be identical to or different from the at least one silicone compound bonded to the other oxygen of the phosphate group.
- the alkoxylated silicone phosphate is selected from silicone compounds of formula (A) and salts thereof:
- a is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
- b is an integer ranging from 2 to 500;
- R is selected from-OH, and alkyl groups containing 1 to 9 carbon atoms
- R' is represented by formula (B) :
- R" is selected from alkylene groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms
- c, d, and e which may be identical or different, are each integers ranging from 0 to 20 with the proviso that the sum c+d+e is at least 1;
- R"' is a phosphate group selected from groups of formula-OP (O) (OH) 2 , groups of formula-O-P (O) (OH) (OR1) , and groups of formula-O-P (O) (OR1) 2 , wherein R1 is selected from hydrogen, inorganic cations, and organic cations.
- the alkoxylated silicone acid is selected from dimethicone PEG-8 phosphate, dimethicone PEG-7 phosphate and combinations thereof.
- Non-limiting examples of suitable alkoxylated silicone phosphates include those commercially available from the company Phoenix Chemical, Inc. of New Jersey under the name of such as PS-100, PS-112, PS-150, PS-200, WDS-100, WDS-200, PS-100 B, and PS-100 K, those commercially available from the company LUBRIZOL under the name of SILSENSE PE-200L SILICONE, and those commercially available from the company Siltech under the name Silphos A-100 and Silphos A-150.
- Other non-limiting examples of suitable alkoxylated silicone phosphates include those described in U.S. Patent Nos. 5,070,171, 5,093,452, and 5,149,765 the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference.
- the alkoxylated silicone phosphate is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside selected from compounds of formula (I) :
- R represents a saturated C 1 to C 10 , in particular C 1 to C 4 , alkyl radical which can optionally be substituted by at least one radical selected from OH, COOH or COOR” 2 , with R” 2 being a saturated C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical,
- - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form and of the L and/or D series, it being possible for the said monosaccharide or polysaccharide to be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional group (s) , and
- - X represents a radical selected from the–CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH 2 ) -, -CH (NHCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH) -, -CH (NHPh) -and–CH (CH 3 ) -groups and in particular a–CO-, -CH (OH) -or–CH (NH 2 ) -radical and more particularly a–CH (OH) -radical,
- the S-CH 2 -X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be ⁇ or ⁇ , and also their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as the hydrates, and their optical and geometrical isomers.
- the C-glycoside of use for the implementation of the invention are in particular those for which R denotes a saturated linear C 1 to C 6 , in particular C 1 to C 4 , preferentially C 1 to C 2 , alkyl radical and more preferably a methyl radical.
- amonosaccharide of the invention can be selected from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N- acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and in particular D-xylose.
- apolysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar units can be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, adisaccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which can advantageously be selected from xylobiose, methyl- ⁇ -xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose and in particular xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.
- S can represent a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.
- - R denotes an unsubstituted linear C 1 -C 4 , in particular C 1 -C 2 , alkyl radical, especially a methyl radical;
- - S represents a monosaccharide as described above and selected in particular from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
- - X represents a group selected from-CO-, -CH (OH) -or-CH (NH 2 ) -and preferably a-CH (OH) -group.
- the acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention comprise conventional non-toxic salts of the said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the salts of inorganic acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid. Mention may also be made of the salts of organic acids, which can comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.
- neutralization of the acid group (s) can be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca (OH) 2 , NH 4 OH, Mg (OH) 2 or Zn (OH) 2 , or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine.
- an inorganic base such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca (OH) 2 , NH 4 OH, Mg (OH) 2 or Zn (OH) 2
- organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine.
- This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine can comprise one or more nitrogen and/or oxygen atoms and can thus comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; mention may in particular be made of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2- (dimethylamino) propanol or 2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl) -1, 3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3- (dimethylamino) propylamine.
- solvates which are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention comprise conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of the said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the solvates due to the presence of water or of linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.
- aC-glycoside corresponding to the formula (I) can be used alone or as a mixture with other C-glycoside and in any proportion.
- a C-glycoside which is suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthetic method described in the document WO 02/051828.
- C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and better still C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can advantageously be used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.
- the C-glycoside can be C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) provided in the form of a solution containing 70%by weight of active material in water and propylene glycol.
- the C-glycoside is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 40%, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 25 wt. %, and more preferably from 1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- carrageenan and alkoxylated silicone phosphate work together to boost the anti-aging efficacy of C-glycoside, especially, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, so as to provide better anti-aging efficacy, meanwhile this combination can further provide better skin sensory during application.
- the composition according to the present invention comprises an anti-redness active ingredient.
- anti-redness active ingredients mention can be made to madecassoside, saccharide isomerate, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, panthenol, olea europaea (olive) leaf extract, mentha piperita (peppermint) extract, leontopodium alpinum extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-15, boswellia serrata extract, sodium palmitoyl proline (and) nymphaea alba flower extract.
- cassoside saccharide isomerate
- palmitoyl tripeptide-8 panthenol
- olea europaea (olive) leaf extract mentha piperita (peppermint) extract
- leontopodium alpinum extract dipotassium glycyrrhizate
- acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester acetyl
- the composition of the present invention comprises at least one anti-redness active ingredient selected from madecassoside, saccharide isomerate, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, panthenol, olea europaea (olive) leaf extract, Mentha piperita (peppermint) extract, leontopodium alpinum extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-15, boswellia serrata extract, sodium palmitoyl proline (and) nymphaea alba flower extract, and a combination thereof.
- anti-redness active ingredient selected from madecassoside, saccharide isomerate, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, panthenol, olea europaea (olive) leaf extract, Mentha piperita (peppermint) extract, leontopodium alpinum extract, dipotassium glycyrrh
- the composition of the present invention comprises leontopodium alpinum extract, in particular, leontopodium alpinum callus culture extract, as anti-redness active ingredient.
- the anti-redness active ingredient is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 20%, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition of the present invention comprises a truffle extract.
- Truffle is the common name given to the edible fruiting body of an ectomycorrhizal ascomyscetes fungus which takes a more or less globular form. The fungus may produce several truffles.
- the truffle (s) which may be used within the context of the invention are preferentially truffles of the genus Tuber, of the Tuberaceae family, in the Pezizales order. There are more than a hundred species thereof. Among the latter, mention may especially be made of black (Périgord) truffle (Tuber melanosporum) , white (Piedmont) truffle (Tuber magnatum) , white (summer) truffle (Tuber aestivum) , winter truffle (Tuber Brumale) , bianchetto truffle (Tuber borchii) , or else Chinese truffles (Tuber sinensis and Tuber indicum) .
- the truffle (s) used within the context of the invention are selected from white truffles and black truffles.
- the truffle (s) used within the context of the invention are black (Périgord) truffle (Tuber melanosporum) , white (summer) truffle (Tuber aestivum) , or a mixture of the two.
- the truffle extract (s) may especially be obtained from an extraction solvent by using an extraction technique selected from the extraction techniques well known from the prior art.
- the extraction solvent is chosen from water, water-soluble or water-miscible solvents (hydrophilic solvents) , and mixtures thereof.
- hydrophilic solvents mention may especially be made of substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
- substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol
- polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
- the truffle extract is said to be aqueous.
- the truffle extract is said to be alcoholic.
- the truffle extract is said to be glycolic.
- the extract is said to be aqueous-alcoholic.
- the extract is said to be aqueous-glycolic.
- the truffle extract (s) are obtained from an extraction solvent comprising water.
- the truffle extract (s) are then aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or aqueous-glycolic.
- the truffle extract (s) are aqueous or aqueous-glycolic.
- the truffle extract is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 15%, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 10 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase.
- Said aqueous phase comprises water.
- the aqueous phase comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25°C) selected from ethanol, glycols and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof, so as to provide a hydration effect.
- an organic solvent miscible with water selected from ethanol, glycols and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and
- the organic solvent miscible with water selected from ethanol, glycols and polyols is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the aqueous phase of the composition of the present invention comprises water, ethanol, and glycerin.
- aqueous phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50 wt. %to 95 wt. %, preferably from 70 wt. %to 90 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the present invention may comprise an oily phase.
- Said oily phase comprises an oil.
- the oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
- oil means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
- non-volatile oil means an oil that may remain on keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that especially has a vapour pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .
- a non-volatile oil may also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined previously, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg/cm 2 .
- the oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
- Said oil can be selected from hydrocarbonated, silicone or fluorinated oils.
- hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally O and N atoms, and free of Si and F heteroatoms. Such oil can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
- silicon oil means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, especially containing Si-O groups.
- fluorinated oil means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
- the oil is selected from hydrocarbon-based oils, and silicone oils, such as dimethicone.
- the oily phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
- composition of the present invention may comprise one or more additional cosmetic active ingredient different from C-glycoside, anti-redness active ingredients and truffle extract.
- vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin E (tocopherol) , vitamin C (ascorbic acid) , vitamin B5 (panthenol) , vitamin B3 (niacinamide) , and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; alpha-hydroxyacids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; sunscreens; extracts from algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; other moisturing agents such as hydroxyethyl urea, agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.
- composition of the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance, surfactants, fragrances, preserving agents (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, pH regulators (for example citric acid) , thickeners (such as xanthan gum and carbomer) , and mixtures thereof.
- cosmetic adjuvants or additives for instance, surfactants, fragrances, preserving agents (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, pH regulators (for example citric acid) , thickeners (such as xanthan gum and carbomer) , and mixtures thereof.
- the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
- composition of the present invention may be in the form of emulsion, such as gel, cream, or lotion.
- composition of the present invention can be used for caring for keratin materials.
- the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.
- compositions of invention example (IE. ) 1 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-2 were prepared according to the amounts given in Table 2. The amount of each component is given in%by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.
- composition of invention example 1 is composition according to the present invention.
- Composition of comparative example 1 does not comprise carrageenan.
- Composition of comparative example 2 does not comprise an alkoxylated silicone phosphate.
- compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking the composition of invention example 1 as an example:
- the viscosity of a composition was measured at 25°C upon preparation using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in a composition (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed) , at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
- the stability of a composition will be evaluated as stable if its appearance, color, and odor do not show visible change, and its viscosity and pH as well as particle sizes of emulsified droplets do not change more than 7%after all of the stability tests mentioned above, otherwise, it will be evaluated as unstable.
- composition of invention example 1 performed better on penetration and skin affinity, as compared with compositions of comparative examples 1 and 2.
- composition of invention example 1 performed better on anti-aging efficacy in terms of more radiant/firming/soft skin, as compared with compositions of comparative examples 1 and 2.
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Abstract
Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques comprenant : (i) du carraghénane ; (ii) au moins un phosphate de silicone alcoxylé ; et (iii) au moins un C-glycoside. Procédé non thérapeutique pour le soin des matières kératiniques comprenant l'application de la composition sur les matières kératiniques.
Priority Applications (2)
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PCT/CN2022/123071 WO2024065606A1 (fr) | 2022-09-30 | 2022-09-30 | Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques |
FR2211864A FR3141855A1 (fr) | 2022-09-30 | 2022-11-15 | Composition de soin de matières kératineuses |
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PCT/CN2022/123071 WO2024065606A1 (fr) | 2022-09-30 | 2022-09-30 | Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques |
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WO2024065606A1 true WO2024065606A1 (fr) | 2024-04-04 |
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PCT/CN2022/123071 WO2024065606A1 (fr) | 2022-09-30 | 2022-09-30 | Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques |
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WO (1) | WO2024065606A1 (fr) |
Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2013034855A2 (fr) * | 2011-09-06 | 2013-03-14 | L'oreal | Association de carraghénane et de c-glycoside et leurs utilisations |
US20160213599A1 (en) * | 2013-08-30 | 2016-07-28 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising a sulfonic polymer, a hydrophobic polysaccharide and silicone surfactant |
US20170189297A1 (en) * | 2016-01-02 | 2017-07-06 | L'oreal | Cosmetic compositions comprising ceramides and cholesterol |
WO2019133237A1 (fr) * | 2017-12-29 | 2019-07-04 | L'oreal | Compositions cosmétiques comprenant de l'acide glycolique et méthodes d'utilisation |
Family Cites Families (7)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US5093452A (en) | 1990-06-27 | 1992-03-03 | Siltech Inc. | Silicone phosphate amines |
US5070171A (en) | 1990-06-27 | 1991-12-03 | Siltech Inc. | Phosphated silicone polymers |
US5149765A (en) | 1990-06-27 | 1992-09-22 | Siltech Inc. | Terminal phosphated silicone polymers |
FR2818547B1 (fr) | 2000-12-22 | 2006-11-17 | Oreal | Nouveaux derives c-glycosides et utilisation |
US20080008673A1 (en) * | 2006-07-03 | 2008-01-10 | Claudie Willemin | Compositions comprising at least one C-glycoside derivative |
FR3061009B1 (fr) * | 2016-12-22 | 2020-09-25 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique comprenant une ou plusieurs huile(s) polaire(s), un monoalcool aliphatique en c2-c6 et un polyol, au moins un actif hydrophile, et comprenant moins de 7% en poids d’eau |
FR3117847B1 (fr) * | 2020-12-18 | 2023-11-24 | Oreal | Composition comprenant des gélifiants aqueux, des tensioactifs et de l’acide ascorbique |
-
2022
- 2022-09-30 WO PCT/CN2022/123071 patent/WO2024065606A1/fr unknown
- 2022-11-15 FR FR2211864A patent/FR3141855A1/fr active Pending
Patent Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2013034855A2 (fr) * | 2011-09-06 | 2013-03-14 | L'oreal | Association de carraghénane et de c-glycoside et leurs utilisations |
US20160213599A1 (en) * | 2013-08-30 | 2016-07-28 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising a sulfonic polymer, a hydrophobic polysaccharide and silicone surfactant |
US20170189297A1 (en) * | 2016-01-02 | 2017-07-06 | L'oreal | Cosmetic compositions comprising ceramides and cholesterol |
WO2019133237A1 (fr) * | 2017-12-29 | 2019-07-04 | L'oreal | Compositions cosmétiques comprenant de l'acide glycolique et méthodes d'utilisation |
US20190201304A1 (en) * | 2017-12-29 | 2019-07-04 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising glycolic acid and methods of use |
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