WO2022255176A1 - 化粧料組成物 - Google Patents

化粧料組成物 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022255176A1
WO2022255176A1 PCT/JP2022/021324 JP2022021324W WO2022255176A1 WO 2022255176 A1 WO2022255176 A1 WO 2022255176A1 JP 2022021324 W JP2022021324 W JP 2022021324W WO 2022255176 A1 WO2022255176 A1 WO 2022255176A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
oil
composition according
composition
betaine
cosmetic
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/JP2022/021324
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
紗希 鎌田
俊 久保田
ターシャ 小畑
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Shiseido Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Shiseido Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Shiseido Co Ltd filed Critical Shiseido Co Ltd
Priority to JP2023525749A priority Critical patent/JPWO2022255176A1/ja
Priority to CN202280032810.8A priority patent/CN117320680A/zh
Publication of WO2022255176A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022255176A1/ja
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/892Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition that undergoes phase separation when left standing, and a cosmetic filled in a dispenser type container.
  • Cosmetics that phase separate when left to stand are also used as cosmetics for the purpose of aesthetic appearance due to the appearance feature of having multiple phases.
  • cosmetic ingredients suitable for each phase can be stably blended, so there is an advantage that required functions can be distributed to each phase.
  • Cosmetics that undergo phase separation are generally emulsified by shaking at the time of use. After use, if left to stand still, phase separation occurs again. In order to cause such a phase change, a surfactant is blended, but it is known that the action of the surfactant takes time for separation and leaves emulsified droplets (for example, Patent document 1).
  • phase-separating cosmetic is used as a finishing cosmetic that is applied from the top of the makeup-applied face in order to prevent the makeup from collapsing and to increase the longevity of the makeup cosmetic such as foundation. is also used.
  • This finish cosmetic appeals to users with functions such as adsorbing sebum, protecting the skin from dryness, protecting the skin from external factors such as pollen and dust, and preventing makeup from being transferred to clothing. ing.
  • the present inventors have surprisingly found that a cosmetic composition that phase separates upon standing, comprising an oil component, an oil-soluble film-forming agent, a betaine-type surfactant, and water, is It was found that the emulsion is stable and a uniform emulsified state can be easily formed by shaking.
  • the present invention is based on such findings, and discloses a cosmetic composition that phase separates upon standing, comprising an oil component, an oil-soluble film-forming agent, a betaine-type surfactant, and water. be.
  • a cosmetic composition that phase-separates upon standing comprising an oil component, an oil-soluble film-forming agent, a betaine-type surfactant, and water.
  • a betaine-type surfactant is selected from the group consisting of lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, aminobetaine, and sulfobetaine.
  • the amount of the betaine surfactant is 0.01 to 0.2% by mass relative to the total amount of the composition.
  • composition according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein the blending ratio of the oil-soluble coating agent and the betaine surfactant is 100:1 to 5:1 on a mass basis.
  • Composition [5] The composition according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein the oil-soluble coating agent is a silicone-based coating agent.
  • the oil-soluble coating agent comprises a resin structure and a linear structure, The resin structure comprises a unit represented by SiO 4/2 or a unit represented by R 1 SiO 3/2 (R 1 is a C 1-6 alkyl group or a C 1-6 alkoxy group).
  • the linear structure comprises units represented by R 2 SiO 2/2 (R 2 is a C 1-6 alkyl group or a C 1-6 alkoxy group);
  • R 2 is a C 1-6 alkyl group or a C 1-6 alkoxy group
  • the oil-soluble coating agent is a (trimethylsiloxysilicate/dimethiconol) crosspolymer.
  • the cosmetic according to [10] wherein the composition is sprayed in the form of a mist.
  • the cosmetic of [10] or [11], wherein the composition is emulsified by shaking before use.
  • the cosmetic composition that undergoes phase separation when left to stand according to the present invention is stable before and after phase separation, and can form a uniform emulsified state.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can suppress makeup collapse when applied over makeup.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition (hereinafter sometimes referred to as composition) that phase separates upon standing, comprising an oil component, an oil-soluble film-forming agent, a betaine-type surfactant, and water.
  • the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition that undergoes phase separation on standing, and may have two or more phases on standing, but preferably two phases. , followed by the aqueous phase.
  • phase separation it is possible to stably blend cosmetic ingredients, particularly active ingredients, suitable for each phase.
  • the appearance is excellent because it leads to an uplifting feeling of the user and an improvement in aggressiveness.
  • the phase-separated composition is preferably emulsified by shaking before use. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, by shaking, the separated oil phase and water phase are uniformly dispersed throughout to make the whole into a one-phase state, and then allowed to stand still to separate again.
  • the composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic finish composition.
  • finishing cosmetic composition refers to a composition that is applied over makeup to impart a fixer function to the makeup, and includes base cosmetics that are directly applied to the skin and general makeup cosmetics. It is different from the fee. Specifically, after applying base makeup such as foundation and makeup such as eye shadow and blush, finishing cosmetics are applied.
  • the cosmetic finish according to the present invention is applied over foundation. As a result, the foundation can be prevented from adhering to the mask when the mask is worn.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises oil.
  • oils include silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, synthetic ester oils, liquid oils and fats, preferably silicone oils or hydrocarbon oils, more preferably silicone oils.
  • silicone oils include linear polysiloxanes (eg, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, etc.), cyclic polysiloxanes (eg, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexane siloxane, etc.), silicone resins that form a three-dimensional network structure, silicone rubber, various modified polysiloxanes (amino-modified polysiloxane, polyether-modified polysiloxane, alkyl-modified polysiloxane, fluorine-modified polysiloxane, etc.), acrylic silicone and the like, preferably chain polysiloxane.
  • linear polysiloxanes eg, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane
  • hydrocarbon oils examples include isododecane, isohexadecane, isoparaffin, liquid paraffin, ozokerite, squalane, pristane, paraffin, ceresin, squalene, petrolatum, and microcrystalline wax.
  • higher fatty acids examples include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, undecylenic acid, toric acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), docosahexaenoic acid ( DHA) and the like.
  • Higher alcohols include straight-chain alcohols (e.g., lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, etc.), branched-chain alcohols (e.g., monostearyl glycerin ether (bacyl alcohol )-2-decyltetradecinol, lanolin alcohol, cholesterol, phytosterol, hexyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, etc.).
  • straight-chain alcohols e.g., lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, etc.
  • branched-chain alcohols e.g., monostearyl glycerin ether (bacyl alcohol )-2-decyltetradecinol, lanolin
  • Synthetic ester oils include, for example, octyl octanoate, nonyl nonanoate, cetyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, olein Decyl acid, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, mono N-alkyl glycol isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, trip
  • liquid oils examples include avocado oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, and cottonseed oil. , Eno oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, sinagiri oil, Japanese pear oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, triglycerin and the like.
  • solid fats and oils include cacao butter, coconut oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, Japanese wax kernel oil, hydrogenated oil, Japanese wax, hydrogenated castor oil, and the like.
  • the blending amount of oil is preferably 1 to 20% by mass, more preferably 3 to 15% by mass, based on the total amount of the composition according to the present invention. Within this range, good phase separation can be obtained, and stickiness and shine when applied to the skin can be suppressed.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises an oil-soluble coating agent.
  • the oil-soluble coating agent is not particularly limited as long as it can be blended in cosmetics. Examples include urethane-based coating agents, acrylic-based coating agents, vinyl-based coating agents, and silicone-based coating agents, preferably silicone. It is a system coating agent. Silicone-based coating agents include silicone resins, fluorine-modified silicone resins, and silicone resin gums, with silicone resin gums being preferred.
  • the oil-soluble coating agent is a polymer comprising a resin structure and a linear structure
  • the resin structure is a unit represented by SiO 4/2 or R 1 SiO 3/2 (R 1 is C 1 -6 alkyl group or C 1-6 alkoxy group)
  • the linear structure is represented by R 2 SiO 2/2 (R 2 is a C 1-6 alkyl group or C 1-6 alkoxy group). is a group)
  • a resin structure and a linear structure are linked by Si--O--Si bonds (hereinafter, such a polymer may be referred to as a block copolymer).
  • block copolymers have both a resin structure and a linear structure.
  • a polymer has only a resin structure, it is excellent in film-forming properties and adhesiveness derived from its structure, but sometimes lacks flexibility and conformability.
  • the polymer has both flexibility and followability.
  • a soft and sticky film can be formed by applying a cosmetic containing a block copolymer having such characteristics.
  • a cosmetic containing a block copolymer having such characteristics.
  • the resin structure has a unit represented by SiO 4/2 (hereinafter sometimes referred to as a Q unit) or R 1 SiO 3/2 (R 1 is a C 1-6 alkyl group or a C 1-6 alkoxy group). , preferably a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, a methoxy group, an ethoxy group or a propoxy group, more preferably a methyl group) (hereinafter sometimes referred to as a T unit). and preferably comprises Q units.
  • the resin structure is (R 3 ) 3 SiO 1/2 (R 3 is a C 1-6 alkyl group or a C 1-6 alkoxy group, preferably a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group , a methoxy group, an ethoxy group or a propoxy group, more preferably a methyl group) (hereinafter sometimes referred to as an M unit).
  • the resin structure comprises M units and Q units, more preferably a structure consisting of M units and Q units (MQ structure).
  • the linear structure is R 2 SiO 2/2 (R 2 is a C 1-6 alkyl group or a C 1-6 alkoxy group, preferably a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, a methoxy group, an ethoxy group or a propoxy group. and more preferably a methyl group) (hereinafter sometimes referred to as a D unit).
  • R 2 is a C 1-6 alkyl group or a C 1-6 alkoxy group, preferably a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, a methoxy group, an ethoxy group or a propoxy group. and more preferably a methyl group
  • a D unit a methyl group
  • the portion where a plurality of D units, preferably 5 or more, are connected has a linear structure
  • the other portion where Q units, T units, D units and M units are mixed has a resin structure.
  • the linear structure preferably has a hydroxy group (silanol group) at the end of the molecular chain.
  • the linking portion between the resin structure and the linear structure is linked by a Si--O--Si bond, and there may be a plurality of structures linked by this Si--O--Si bond in the molecule.
  • the Si atoms attached to the resin structure are T units.
  • the mass ratio of the resin structure and the linear structure contained in one polymer molecule is preferably 50:50 to 95:5, more preferably 60:40 to 90:10. From the viewpoint of solubility, the hydroxy groups contained in the polymer are
  • the block copolymer is preferably a silicone-based coating agent, more preferably a silicone resin gum.
  • silicone resin gum examples include (trimethylsiloxysilicate/dimethiconol) crosspolymers.
  • the mass-average molecular weight of the oil-soluble coating agent is preferably 5,000 to 100,000, more preferably 10,000 to 50,000, from the viewpoint of its function as a coating agent and solubility.
  • the weight average molecular weight is a polystyrene-equivalent value obtained by gel permeation chromatography.
  • One or two or more oil-soluble coating agents can be blended.
  • the blending amount of the oil-soluble coating agent is preferably 0.05 to 5% by mass, more preferably 1 to 5% by mass, based on the total amount of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a betaine-type surfactant.
  • betaine surfactants include lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, aminobetaine, sulfobetaine and the like.
  • a uniform emulsified state can be obtained when emulsified by shaking, and the generation of interfacial aggregates can be suppressed. can be suppressed.
  • One or two or more betaine-type surfactants can be blended.
  • the amount of the betaine surfactant is preferably 0.01-0.2% by mass, more preferably 0.02-0.1% by mass, based on the total amount of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the blending ratio of the oil-soluble film-forming agent and the betaine-type surfactant is preferably 100:1 to 5:1, more preferably 70:1, on a mass basis. ⁇ 10:1.
  • composition according to the present invention can contain surfactants other than the betaine surfactant, but the amount of the other surfactants is preferably 0.1 based on the total weight of the composition. % by mass or less, more preferably 0.05% by mass or less. It is also a preferred form not to contain other surfactants.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises water.
  • water water used in cosmetics, quasi-drugs, etc. can be used, and for example, purified water, ion-exchanged water, tap water, etc. can be used.
  • the amount of water to be incorporated is preferably 40-95% by weight, more preferably 60-95% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • Compositions according to the invention may comprise sodium chloride.
  • sodium chloride in the case of a cosmetic composition that undergoes phase separation, the phase boundary can be made clear, and the separation rate can be adjusted.
  • the amount of sodium chloride compounded is preferably 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total amount of the composition according to the invention. By setting it to this range, stickiness due to sodium chloride can be suppressed, the interface can be cleared, and the separation speed can be increased.
  • Compositions according to the invention may contain lower alcohols. By blending a lower alcohol, the specific gravity of the composition can be reduced. In addition, it is possible to impart a refreshing feeling of use.
  • lower alcohols include ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, isobutyl alcohol, t-butyl alcohol and the like.
  • the amount of the lower alcohol compounded is preferably 1-45% by mass, more preferably 5-30% by mass, relative to the total amount of the composition according to the present invention.
  • ingredients commonly used in cosmetics such as moisturizers, thickeners, bactericides, preservatives, pH adjusters, ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants, organic and inorganic powders, fragrances, Examples include pigments, dyes, whitening agents, vitamins, and various amino acids.
  • composition according to the present invention can be produced according to conventional methods.
  • the cosmetic according to the present invention is a cosmetic obtained by filling a dispenser-type container with the composition according to the present invention.
  • the composition according to the invention is sprayed from this container in the form of a mist. Since the composition according to the present invention is sprayed in the form of a mist, it can be applied uniformly without direct contact with the skin, so that it is thin, uniform, and does not easily rub on top of the makeup without ruining the makeup. A film can be formed.
  • Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 9 Compositions of Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-9 were prepared with the formulations shown in Table 1. When the appearance of the prepared compositions was observed while standing still, all of them were separated into two phases. In the table, As the (trimethylsiloxysilicate/dimethiconol) crosspolymer, "DOWSIL FC-5004 DM (1.5 cSt Silicone Resin Gum)" (Dow Toray Industries, Inc.) was used.
  • DOWSIL FC-5004 DM (1.5 cSt Silicone Resin Gum) is a product containing a (trimethylsiloxysilicate/dimethiconol) crosspolymer dissolved in a low-viscosity dimethicone liquid, but is listed in the table. % by mass refers only to the (trimethylsiloxysilicate/dimethiconol) crosspolymer, and does not include the solvent or the like contained in the product.
  • compositions of Examples 1 to 5 were placed in a dispenser-type spray container and applied to the face after makeup by spraying. When it was checked after 8 hours had passed, no make-up collapse or wrinkling was observed, and the make-up did not fade.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
PCT/JP2022/021324 2021-06-03 2022-05-25 化粧料組成物 Ceased WO2022255176A1 (ja)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2023525749A JPWO2022255176A1 (https=) 2021-06-03 2022-05-25
CN202280032810.8A CN117320680A (zh) 2021-06-03 2022-05-25 化妆品组合物

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2021-093712 2021-06-03
JP2021093712 2021-06-03

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Publication Number Publication Date
WO2022255176A1 true WO2022255176A1 (ja) 2022-12-08

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CN (1) CN117320680A (https=)
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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPWO2024143259A1 (https=) * 2022-12-28 2024-07-04

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2017088569A (ja) * 2015-11-13 2017-05-25 株式会社ファンケル 化粧料
WO2018221519A1 (ja) * 2017-05-31 2018-12-06 株式会社 資生堂 仕上げ用化粧料
WO2020036062A1 (ja) * 2018-08-15 2020-02-20 ダウ・東レ株式会社 水中油型乳化化粧料
WO2020175398A1 (ja) * 2019-02-27 2020-09-03 株式会社コーセー 多層型メイクアップ保護化粧料

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2017088569A (ja) * 2015-11-13 2017-05-25 株式会社ファンケル 化粧料
WO2018221519A1 (ja) * 2017-05-31 2018-12-06 株式会社 資生堂 仕上げ用化粧料
WO2020036062A1 (ja) * 2018-08-15 2020-02-20 ダウ・東レ株式会社 水中油型乳化化粧料
WO2020175398A1 (ja) * 2019-02-27 2020-09-03 株式会社コーセー 多層型メイクアップ保護化粧料

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPWO2024143259A1 (https=) * 2022-12-28 2024-07-04
JP7701565B2 (ja) 2022-12-28 2025-07-01 株式会社コーセー 多層型メイクアップ保護化粧料

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CN117320680A (zh) 2023-12-29

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