WO2022113695A1 - 織編物 - Google Patents

織編物 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022113695A1
WO2022113695A1 PCT/JP2021/040729 JP2021040729W WO2022113695A1 WO 2022113695 A1 WO2022113695 A1 WO 2022113695A1 JP 2021040729 W JP2021040729 W JP 2021040729W WO 2022113695 A1 WO2022113695 A1 WO 2022113695A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
woven
fiber
knitted fabric
fabric
polymer
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/JP2021/040729
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
川原慎也
稲田康二郎
松浦知彦
増田正人
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toray Industries Inc
Original Assignee
Toray Industries Inc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toray Industries Inc filed Critical Toray Industries Inc
Priority to KR1020237012558A priority Critical patent/KR20230107544A/ko
Priority to CN202180077727.8A priority patent/CN116601344B/zh
Priority to US18/035,998 priority patent/US12516449B2/en
Priority to JP2021572367A priority patent/JP7767927B2/ja
Priority to EP21897671.0A priority patent/EP4253621A4/en
Publication of WO2022113695A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022113695A1/ja
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/14—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/30—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments
    • D03D15/37—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments with specific cross-section or surface shape
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/292—Conjugate, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, fibres or filaments
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/022—Moisture-responsive characteristics hydrophylic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/20—Coated or impregnated woven, knit, or nonwoven fabric which is not [a] associated with another preformed layer or fiber layer or, [b] with respect to woven and knit, characterized, respectively, by a particular or differential weave or knit, wherein the coating or impregnation is neither a foamed material nor a free metal or alloy layer
    • Y10T442/2352—Coating or impregnation functions to soften the feel of or improve the "hand" of the fabric

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric having an excellent wearing comfort and a natural appearance.
  • Synthetic fibers made of polyester, polyamide, etc. have excellent mechanical properties and dimensional stability, so they are widely used from clothing applications to non-clothing applications.
  • people's lives are diversified and people are demanding a better life, and there is a demand for fibers having a higher tactile sensation and function.
  • Textiles for clothing tend to demand excellent wearing comfort.
  • underwear and shirts that come into contact with human skin are required to have sweat absorption, quick-drying properties, good skin separation, and ability to follow body movements such as stretchability, and various techniques have been proposed to date. ..
  • Patent Document 1 states that by using a knitted yarn using a flat yarn having a flat cross section, the surface area of the fiber can be expanded, and excellent water absorption and transpiration of water can be imparted.
  • Patent Document 2 the degree of surface unevenness is increased and the water retention rate in the dough is increased to reduce the sticking of the dough.
  • Natural materials such as cotton, linen, wool or Japanese paper have a non-uniform surface texture, which is a characteristic of natural materials and has been favored and used from clothing to non-clothing applications.
  • a filament of a synthetic fiber is used, the uniformity of the fiber is high and a natural-like non-uniform unevenness cannot be obtained.
  • the present invention has the following configuration.
  • a woven or knitted fabric in which the ratio (Sqs / Sq) of the average standard deviation Sqs of the surface roughness on the one surface to the average standard deviation Sq is 0.85 or more and 2.00 or less.
  • the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can provide clothing having excellent wearing comfort and appearance by reducing the sticking of the fabric to the skin and the exudation of sweat when worn.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic view of the cross-sectional structure of the C-shaped cross-sectional fiber in the present invention.
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the cross-sectional structure of a conventional composite fiber.
  • the average standard deviation Sq of the surface roughness on at least one surface is 5 ⁇ m or more and 100 ⁇ m or less. Both sides of the woven or knit may be used.
  • the average standard deviation Sq of the surface roughness referred to here is calculated by the method described later.
  • Sq is smaller than 5 ⁇ m, there is no unevenness on the surface of the fabric and the peelability is lowered.
  • the surface of the woven or knitted fabric becomes uniform and the appearance of natural material is impaired.
  • Sq is larger than 100 ⁇ m, the unevenness of the surface of the fabric is too large, and the garment becomes rough and rough when worn.
  • the lower limit is preferably 30 ⁇ m or more, and more preferably 40 ⁇ m or more.
  • the upper limit is preferably 90 ⁇ m or less, and more preferably 80 ⁇ m or less.
  • the average standard deviation Sqs of the surface roughness of at least one surface when stretched by 10% and the ratio Sqs / Sq of the above-mentioned Sq on the same surface as Sqs are 0.85 or more. It is 00 or less.
  • the Sqs referred to here are calculated by the method described later.
  • the ratio of Sqs to a relative value that is, Sq in a non-extended state, is a particularly important index for wearing comfort, rather than an absolute value. If Sqs / Sq is smaller than 0.85, the fabric will stick to the skin at the stretched portion of the fabric due to exercise, and the wearing comfort will be reduced.
  • a means for setting Sq and Sqs / Sq in the above range it is possible to appropriately combine the structure of the woven and knitted fabric, the properties of the yarn, and the like.
  • a twill structure a multiple structure such as a double structure, etc., and in the case of a knitted material, a milling knitting or a Kanoko knitting, etc. are easily included in the scope of the present invention.
  • the twill structure is a more preferable embodiment in that the productivity is excellent and the surface roughness can be easily controlled by stretching the dough.
  • the properties of the constituent yarns for example, false plying yarns, core-sheath composite cross-sectional fibers, and side-by-side type conjugated yarns are used, and in the case of having a flat cross-sectional shape, crimped yarns including a portion having a uniform phase are used. Can be used.
  • flat yarn is preferable, and 10% or more of the multifilament yarns are oriented in the same direction, which makes it easy to set Sqs / Sq in the present invention in the above range. preferable.
  • the term "facing in the same direction” as used herein means that the angle formed by the angle between an arbitrary reference line and the long axis of the flat thread cross section is 0 to 180 degrees in a cross-sectional image containing 20 or more flat threads that are multifilaments.
  • 20 threads are measured for each, it means that the number of flat threads having an angle of 20 degrees or less is 10% or more. It is more preferable that the number of flat yarns having an angle of 10 degrees or less is 10% or more.
  • the flat yarn means a yarn having an RB / RA of more than 1 as described later, and is preferably 1.2 or more.
  • the elongation rate in the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably 10% or more, more preferably 20% or more in terms of wearing comfort. In addition, 50% or less is preferable, and 40% or less is more preferable, in terms of excellent skin release when worn. As the elongation rate in the present invention, the method described in Examples described later can be adopted.
  • the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention contains C-shaped cross-section fibers.
  • the C-shaped cross-section fiber is preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 90% by weight or more.
  • the C-shaped cross-section fiber is preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 90% by weight or more.
  • the C-shaped cross-section fiber is preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 90% by weight or more.
  • the C-shaped cross-sectional fiber in the present invention is a fiber in which a part of the wall of the hollow fiber is continuously opened in the fiber axis direction and the cross-sectional shape is substantially C-shaped (deformed to appear as substantially V-shaped or substantially U-shaped). Refers to the thread (including).
  • the water absorption can be improved by the C-shaped opening and the skin surface can be made dry.
  • the surface roughness is an important index for improving the skin release property, but the water absorption due to the opening makes the effect extremely excellent especially at the time of sweating. Only one of them does not produce the effect of the present invention.
  • the skin release property is inferior without the above-mentioned opening. Further, even if the opening is present, if the surface roughness is not within the range of the present invention, the skin release property is still inferior.
  • the elution type hollow fiber referred to in the present invention has a core-sheath structure composed of a core component made of an easily soluble polymer and a sheath component made of a poorly soluble polymer, and has a C-shaped cross-sectional shape by removing the core component. It is a fiber that can form a thread having. In the cross section of the fiber, a thread having a communication portion in which a part of the core component is exposed from the opening of the sheath component to the fiber surface and communicates from the fiber center to the fiber surface is preferable.
  • the width of the communication portion (hereinafter, may be simply referred to as "communication width") is preferably 10% or less of the fiber diameter.
  • the composite fiber is embedded with an embedding agent such as epoxy resin, and the cross section of the fiber in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis is imaged as a magnification at which fibers of 10 filaments or more can be observed with a scanning electron microscope (SEM). Take a picture and ask. From each image taken, the diameter of fibers randomly sampled in the same image is measured in ⁇ m units up to the first decimal place. Then, a simple number average of the results obtained by performing this for 10 filaments is obtained, and the value rounded to the first decimal place is defined as the fiber diameter ( ⁇ m).
  • the cross section of the fiber in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis is not a perfect circle, the area is measured and the value of the diameter obtained in terms of a perfect circle is adopted.
  • the fibers are embedded with an embedding agent such as epoxy resin, and the cross section of the fibers in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis is imaged as a magnification at which 10 or more fibers can be observed with a transmission electron microscope (TEM). It is done by taking a picture of.
  • TEM transmission electron microscope
  • the shortest width of W) in b) is calculated in ⁇ m units. Then, this is performed for 10 filaments, a simple numerical average of the obtained results is obtained, and the value rounded to the second decimal place is used as the communication width. Further, the communication width obtained for each filament is divided by the fiber diameter and multiplied by 100 to calculate a value, which is obtained for 10 filaments, and a simple numerical average is obtained. The ratio of the communication width to the ratio (%).
  • the communication width is 10% or less of the fiber diameter, it is possible to prevent the hollow portion from being crushed due to biting between fibers or displacement of the opening without impairing water absorption and water retention. Further, if the communication width is 5% or less of the fiber diameter, fibrillation due to fiber wear due to the openings formed after elution of the easily soluble polymer can be suppressed. Further, when post-processing with a functional agent is performed, the functional agent in the hollow portion can be prevented from falling off due to washing or the like, and the washing durability of the functional agent can be significantly improved, which is more preferable. In addition, it is possible to prevent the retained water from seeping out to the outside when the water absorption process is performed. However, if the communication width is too narrow, it becomes difficult to remove the easily soluble polymer in the core portion. Therefore, the practical lower limit of the communication width is 1% of the fiber diameter.
  • the C-shaped cross-section fiber can adopt any irregular cross-section such as flat, multi-lobed, polygonal, gear-shaped, petal-shaped, star-shaped, etc. Is preferable. If the shape is flat, the phases of crimping are easily aligned, and it is easy to control the surface roughness range of the present invention. In addition, if it is multi-leaf-shaped, unevenness is imparted to the fiber surface, which can suppress glare due to diffused reflection of light and enhance water absorption and quick-drying due to fine interfiber voids, and unevenness when touched by hand. You can also get a dry touch by catching it on your finger. However, if the number of uneven portions becomes too large, the intervals between the uneven portions become finer and the effect gradually decreases. Therefore, the practical upper limit of the convex portions of the multi-leaf shape in the present invention is 20. It is an individual.
  • the C-shaped cross-sectional fiber in the present invention preferably has a ratio (RB / RA) of the inscribed circle diameter RA and the circumscribed circle diameter RB of the fiber in the fiber cross section of 1.2 or more and 5.0 or less.
  • the fiber is embedded with an embedding agent such as epoxy resin, and the cross section of the fiber in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis is scanned by a scanning electron microscope (SEM). An image is taken and obtained at a magnification at which fibers of 10 filaments or more can be observed. Fibers randomly extracted from each captured image in the same image are analyzed using analysis software capable of measuring the length of the image.
  • the maximum diameter that is inscribed on the fiber surface at at least two points exists only inside the fiber, and can be taken as long as the circumference of the inscribed circle does not intersect the fiber surface.
  • the diameter of a circle having a circle (for example, A in FIG. 1A) is calculated, and a simple number average of the results obtained by performing this for 10 filaments is obtained, and the value rounded off to the nearest whole number is defined as the inscribed circle diameter RA.
  • the minimum diameter that is circumscribed with the fiber surface at at least two points for example, b1 and b2 in FIG.
  • RB / RA is calculated for the value obtained by dividing the RB obtained for each fiber by RA, and the simple number average of the result of performing this for 10 filaments is obtained, and the value rounded to the second decimal place is RB / RA. It was set to RA.
  • the skin separation property due to surface unevenness is improved. More preferably, it is 1.5 or more. Further, by setting the RB / RA to 5.0 or less, it is possible to suppress glare due to flattening and obtain a woven or knitted fabric having excellent surface quality. More preferably, it is 4.0 or less.
  • the method within the above range in the present invention is not particularly limited, but can be obtained by using, for example, a spinneret described later.
  • the above-mentioned easily soluble polymer means a polymer having a relatively high dissolution rate with respect to the solvent used for the dissolution treatment
  • the poorly soluble polymer means a polymer having a slow dissolution rate.
  • the dissolution and elution in the present invention include the case where the polymer is decomposed and apparently dissolved.
  • thermoplastic polymer As the polymer constituting the C-type cross-sectional fiber in the present invention, a thermoplastic polymer is preferable because it is excellent in processability, and for example, polyester-based, polyethylene-based, polypropylene-based, polystyrene-based, polyamide-based, polycarbonate-based, and polymethyl methacrylate-based polymer. , Polyphenylene sulfide-based polymers and their copolymers are preferred. From the viewpoint that particularly high interfacial affinity can be imparted and fibers having no composite cross-sectional abnormality can be obtained, the thermoplastic polymers used in the composite fibers of the present invention are all the same polymer group and copolymers thereof. preferable.
  • the polymer contains various additives such as titanium oxide, silica, inorganic substances such as barium oxide, carbon black, colorants such as dyes and pigments, flame retardants, fluorescent whitening agents, antioxidants, and ultraviolet absorbers. You may be.
  • the easily soluble polymer for example, polyester and its copolymer, polylactic acid, polyamide, polystyrene and its copolymer, polyethylene, polyvinyl alcohol and the like can be melt-molded and exhibit more easily elution than other components. It is preferable to choose from polymers. Further, from the viewpoint of simplifying the elution step of the easily soluble polymer, the easily soluble polymer is preferably a copolymerized polyester, polylactic acid, polyvinyl alcohol or the like which exhibits easy elution in an aqueous solvent or hot water.
  • polyester in which 5 mol% to 15 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is copolymerized, and 5 wt% of polyethylene glycol having a weight average molecular weight of 500 to 3000 in addition to 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. Polyesters copolymerized in the range of from 15 wt% to 15 wt% are particularly preferable.
  • the C-shaped cross-section fiber in the present invention it is preferable that at least two different polymers are unevenly distributed on the left and right.
  • Different polymers include at least one of the chemical composition, presence or absence of copolymerization, copolymerization ratio, position of copolymer such as random copolymerization and block copolymerization, chemical structure, weight average or number average molecular weight, melting point, etc.
  • the polymer is not particularly limited as long as it is a different polymer, but a polymer having a different melting point is preferable in terms of ease of crimping. If the chemical composition and the like are different, the melting point is usually different, and there may be a plurality of different items.
  • the fact that different polymers are unevenly distributed to the left and right means that, for example, when two types of polymers are composed, different polymers are distributed in the left and right fiber cross sections with the straight line as a boundary among the straight lines that divide the fiber cross section into two evenly in area through the fiber center. It means that it is mainly arranged.
  • the area ratio in the cross section of different polymers is 100: 0 to 70:30 in either the left or right fiber cross section, and the straight line in the range of 30:70 to 0: 100 in the other fiber cross section (for example, FIG. 2). It is preferable that the straight line I) of (b) exists. That is, the area ratio of each polymer is preferably in the range of 70/30 to 30/70. Within such a range, one of the polymers is not easily affected by the texture hardening that occurs when the polymer shrinks highly by heat treatment, and the crimped morphology due to the difference in shrinkage can be sufficiently expressed.
  • the composite structure of the above-mentioned composite fiber is not particularly limited, and examples of the composite structure include a core sheath type and a blend type in addition to the side-by-side type and the sea island type. From the viewpoint of widening the distance between the centers of gravity and increasing the crimp-developing power, sparingly soluble polymers having different melting points, for example, sparingly soluble polymers on the relatively low melting point side and sparingly soluble polymers on the high melting point side are unevenly distributed on the left and right. It is preferable to join in a side-by-side type.
  • the interface between poorly soluble polymers having different melting points is small, so that the distance between the centers of gravity between the polymers in the composite cross section can be maximized.
  • stretchability can be imparted, and a stress-free wearing comfort can be obtained with an appropriately stretchable fabric, which is a more preferable range.
  • polystyrene-based examples include a group of melt-moldable thermoplastic polymers such as polyester-based, polyethylene-based, polypropylene-based, polystyrene-based, polyamide-based, polycarbonate-based, polymethylmethacrylate-based, and polyphenylene sulfide-based, and copolymers thereof.
  • the difference between the melting point of the highest polymer and the melting point of the lowest polymer among the combined polymers is preferably 10 ° C. or higher, and more preferably 20 ° C. or higher.
  • the main reason why the C-shaped cross-section fiber in the present invention is preferably made of at least two different polymers is that it develops a crimped morphology due to a shrinkage difference.
  • a combination of different polymers it is preferable that at least one kind is a high shrinkage low melting point polymer and at least one other kind is a low shrinkage high melting point polymer.
  • the polymer combination is a bond existing in the main chain such as an ester-bonded polyester type or an amide-bonded polyamide type. It is more preferable to select from the same polymer group having the same.
  • Examples of combinations in the same polymer group include copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate, thermoplastic polyurethane / polyethylene terephthalate, and polyester elastomer / Polyethylene terephthalate, polyester elastomer / polybutylene terephthalate, nylon 66 / nylon 610, nylon 6-nylon 66 copolymer / nylon 6 or 610, PEG copolymer nylon 6 / nylon 6 or 610, thermoplastic polyurethane / nylon 6 or 610, examples of the polyolefin type include ethylene-propylene rubber finely dispersed polypropylene / polypropylene, propylene- ⁇ -olefin copolymer / polypropylene, and the like, but the present invention is not limited to these, and various combinations can be mentioned.
  • the copolymerization component in the copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate include succinic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and the like.
  • polyethylene terephthalate in which 5 to 15 mol% of isophthalic acid is copolymerized.
  • the C-shaped cross-section fiber in the present invention preferably has a fiber diameter of 20 ⁇ m or less from the viewpoint of making the texture more flexible. Within this range, not only flexibility but also a feeling of repulsion can be sufficiently obtained, which is a suitable range for clothing applications such as pants and shirts, which require a firm texture. When the fiber diameter is 15 ⁇ m or less, the flexibility is increased and the crimped morphology developed by the heat treatment becomes fine. A dry touch can also be obtained by catching the unevenness due to crimping on the finger when touched by hand, which is a suitable range for clothing applications such as innerwear and blouses that come into contact with the skin.
  • the fiber diameter is preferably 8 ⁇ m or more in that bending recovery is maintained, an appropriate repulsive feeling is obtained, and excellent color development is obtained.
  • the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention preferably contains a water-absorbent resin and a hydrophilic group in order to further improve the release property from the skin.
  • a woven or knitted fabric containing these hydrophilic resins or hydrophilic groups can generally be obtained by water absorption processing of the woven or knitted fabric. Examples of this water absorption processing include alkali weight reduction processing of polyester, water absorption polyester resin such as polyethylene glycol and polyester polyalkylene glycol copolymer resin, and adhesion processing of hydrophilic processing agents such as cellulose and hydrophilic silicon to fibers. Can be mentioned.
  • the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention contains a water-absorbent polyester resin because it has a high effect of improving water absorption and high washing durability.
  • the method of water absorption processing of the woven or knitted fabric may be a dyeing processing equipment for processing a general woven fabric or a circular knitted fabric, and is not particularly limited. This water absorption processing may be performed at the same time as or after dyeing in the dyeing step, or may be applied to the woven or knitted fabric by the padding method at the finishing stage or the like.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention may be subjected to various functional processing separately, and may be subjected to antifouling processing such as SR processing, deodorant processing, antibacterial, antibacterial processing, UV cut processing, friction melting processing, electrostatic processing, etc. Conventionally known processing of skin care processing may be performed.
  • the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a water retention rate of 20% or more, more preferably 40% or more. Further, the practical upper limit of the water retention rate is about 80%. By setting the water retention rate to 20% or more, the fabric can sufficiently absorb sweat and suppress sweat transfer to the outer.
  • the method of setting the water retention rate within the above range is not particularly limited, but for example, in order to have a structure having an appropriate void for taking in water in the fabric, a crimped yarn is used, or the structure of the woven or knitted fabric is multi-woven or piqué. Various methods can be adopted, such as using a thickened structure for the dough.
  • the water retention rate in the present invention can be measured by a method described later.
  • the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has an exudation rate of 40% or less, more preferably 35% or less.
  • the practical lower limit of the seepage rate is about 5%.
  • the degree of sweat transfer to the outer is reproduced well, and the exudation rate is 40% or less, so that the sweat transfer to the outer can be further suppressed.
  • the method of setting the exudation rate within the above range is not particularly limited, but for example, by appropriately adjusting the amount of the C-shaped cross-sectional fiber in the present invention, water can be retained in the hollow portion inside the yarn and set within the above range. can.
  • the method for producing the C-shaped cross-section fiber in the present invention is not particularly limited, and it can be produced by a melt spinning method for the purpose of producing long fibers, a solution spinning method such as wet and dry wet, and the like. From the viewpoint of increasing productivity, the melt spinning method is preferable. Further, in the melt spinning method, it is also possible to use a composite base base described later, and the spinning temperature at that time is set to a temperature at which a high melting point or a high viscosity polymer mainly exhibits fluidity among the polymer types used. .. The temperature indicating this fluidity varies depending on the molecular weight, but stable production can be achieved by setting the temperature between the melting point of the polymer and the melting point of + 60 ° C.
  • the spinning speed should be about 500 to 6000 m / min, and can be changed depending on the physical characteristics of the polymer and the purpose of use of the fiber. In particular, from the viewpoint of high orientation and improvement of mechanical properties, setting 500 to 4000 m / min and then stretching is preferable because uniaxial orientation of the fiber can be promoted.
  • it is preferable to appropriately set the preheating temperature by using a temperature at which softening is possible, such as the glass transition temperature of the polymer, as a guide.
  • the upper limit of the preheating temperature is preferably a temperature at which the yarn path disorder does not occur due to the spontaneous elongation of the fibers in the preheating process. For example, in the case of PET in which the glass transition temperature is around 70 ° C., this preheating temperature is usually set to about 80 to 95 ° C.
  • the discharge amount per single hole of the C-shaped cross-section fiber of the present invention is set to about 0.1 to 10 g / min / hole, stable production becomes possible.
  • the discharged polymer stream is cooled and solidified, then oiled, and is taken up by a roller having a specified peripheral speed. After that, it is stretched by a heating roller to obtain a desired fiber.
  • the composite base used when producing a C-type cross-section fiber made of two or more types of polymers for example, the composite base described in JP-A-2011-208313 is preferably used.
  • This composite mouthpiece is incorporated into a spinning pack in a state in which three types of members, a measuring plate, a distribution plate, and a discharge plate, are laminated from above, and is used for spinning.
  • the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention can be obtained by knitting, knitting and dyeing using the above-mentioned C-shaped cross-section fiber by a conventionally known method.
  • a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention an example of dyeing processing in a woven or knitted fabric composed of C-shaped cross-section fibers in which two different polymers are unevenly distributed on the left and right is shown below.
  • the woven and knitted fabric is refined as necessary and subjected to a wet heat treatment, so that the filament is crimped due to the difference in heat shrinkage between the two constituent polymers.
  • This wet heat treatment can be performed using a liquid flow dyeing machine or the like.
  • the temperature time may be set so that the potential shrinkage rate of the contained polymer can be expanded, and the higher the treatment temperature and the longer the treatment time, the larger the potential shrinkage rate of the polymer and the occurrence of fine crimping. do.
  • an intermediate set before eluting the easily soluble polymer for forming a C-shaped cross-section fiber.
  • the intermediate set can be performed by equipment such as a pin tenter, and the surface condition and elongation rate of the woven and knitted fabric can be controlled by appropriately changing the tension, temperature and width.
  • a C-type cross-sectional shape can be obtained by eluting an easily soluble polymer for forming a C-type cross-sectional fiber as needed.
  • the elution of the easily soluble polymer can be carried out by processing the easily soluble polymer in a liquid capable of eluting, for example, an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution, using a liquid flow dyeing machine or the like.
  • the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention may be dyed, functionally processed, and finished.
  • the crimping generated by the wet heat treatment is maintained even after these post-processing steps, and the woven and knitted fabric can be imparted with stretchability.
  • the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention is excellent in wearing comfort and appearance by reducing the sticking of the fabric to the skin when worn and reducing the exudation of sweat to the outer, so that the jacket, skirt, pants, underwear, etc. It can be suitably used for general clothing, sports clothing, clothing materials and the like.
  • the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention will be specifically described with reference to the following examples.
  • the following A to H were evaluated for Examples and Comparative Examples.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • Fineness The weight of 10 cm of the fiber collected from the raw yarn or the woven or knitted material before the weaving process was measured, and the value was multiplied by 100,000 to calculate the value. This operation was repeated 10 times, and the value obtained by rounding off the second decimal place of the average value was defined as the fineness (dtex).
  • Sqs Average standard deviation (Sqs) of surface roughness when the dough is stretched by 10%
  • the woven or knitted fabric is fixed to a flat plate in a state of being stretched by 10% in the thread-like direction of the C-shaped cross-sectional fiber, and the surface is changed 10 times by changing the position under the following conditions using the one-shot 3D shape measuring machine VR-3200 manufactured by Keyence.
  • the standard deviation of roughness was measured, and the average value was taken as Sqs.
  • the thread-like direction of the C-shaped cross-section fiber refers to the warp (weft) direction when it is contained only in the warp (weft) thread in the woven fabric, and the direction in which the elongation rate is large when it is contained in both the warp and weft. Point to.
  • warp knit In the case of warp knit, it refers to the vertical direction (direction in which loops are lined up vertically), and in the case of weft knit, it refers to the horizontal direction (direction in which loops are lined up horizontally).
  • the stress when stretching the woven or knitted fabric is 4.0 N / cm or less, and the Sqs of the woven or knitted fabric which does not stretch by 10% under the stress of 4.0 N / cm cannot be measured.
  • E. Water retention rate and exudation rate The water retention rate and exudation rate were calculated by the following method. (1) A woven or knitted fabric (test piece) left in an environment of 20 ° C. and 65% RH for 24 hours was cut into a size of 10 cm ⁇ 10 cm, and two filter papers of the same size and three non-absorbent films were prepared. .. (2) The weight of the film (W0) and the weight of the test piece (W1) were measured. (3) Using a syringe, 0.3 cc of distilled water was placed on the film, and the test piece was placed on the water droplet with the front side facing up and the back surface facing the water droplet side.
  • the weight (W2) of the test piece was measured immediately.
  • the weight (W3) of the film after water absorption was measured.
  • the weights (w1, w3) of the two filter papers before water absorption were measured.
  • the test piece was sandwiched from the front and back sides with a weighed filter paper, and sandwiched between the remaining two films not used in (3) above.
  • a load is applied so that the pressure of the test piece is 5 g / cm 2 , and the weight of the filter paper on the front and back surfaces (w2 (corresponding to w1 in (6) above), w4 ((6) above) immediately after leaving for 1 minute. ) Corresponds to w3)).
  • the water retention rate (%) and the exudation rate (%) were calculated by the following formulas, and the average value of 10 times was taken as the water retention rate (%) and the exudation rate (%).
  • G Fiber diameter
  • the composite fiber is embedded with an embedding agent such as epoxy resin, and the cross section of the fiber in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis is photographed at a magnification that allows the fiber of 10 filaments or more to be observed with a scanning electron microscope (SEM). I asked for it.
  • SEM scanning electron microscope
  • the diameter of the fibers randomly extracted from each photographed image in the same image was measured in ⁇ m units up to the first digit of the decimal point, and this was performed for 10 filaments. was rounded off to determine the fiber diameter ( ⁇ m).
  • the cross section of the fiber in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis is not a perfect circle, the area is measured and the value obtained in terms of a perfect circle is adopted.
  • Example 1 As polymer 1, polyethylene terephthalate (SSIA-PEG copolymerized PET, melt viscosity: 100 Pa ⁇ s, melting point: 233 ° C.) in which 8 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 9 wt% of polyethylene glycol are copolymerized, and isophthalic acid as polymer 2. 7 mol% polyethylene terephthalate (IPA copolymerized PET, melt viscosity: 140 Pa ⁇ s, melting point: 232 ° C.) was prepared, and polyethylene terephthalate (PET, melt viscosity: 130 Pa ⁇ s, melting point: 254 ° C.) was prepared as the polymer 3. ..
  • the polymer 1 / polymer 2 / polymer 3 is weighed so as to have a weight ratio of 20/40/40, and the flat composite as shown in FIG. 1 (a).
  • the polymer 1 is arranged in the innermost layer and the communication portion (x in FIG. 1 (a)) extending from the center of the fiber to the surface of the fiber, and the polymer 2 is placed in the outermost layer (y, z in FIG. 1 (a)).
  • the inflow polymer was discharged from the discharge holes so as to form a composite structure in which the polymer 3 was joined in a side-by-side manner.
  • a 56 dtex-36 filament (fiber diameter 12 ⁇ m) was applied to the discharged composite polymer stream after cooling and solidifying, winding at a spinning speed of 1500 m / min, and stretching between rollers heated to 90 ° C and 130 ° C.
  • the composite fiber of was manufactured.
  • the ratio RB / RA of the inscribed circle diameter RA and the circumscribed circle diameter RB of the obtained composite fiber was 1.8. It was also confirmed that the communication width was 0.5 ⁇ m, which was 4% of the fiber diameter of 12 ⁇ m.
  • Two of the obtained composite fibers are combined and twisted at 300 T / M in the S direction.
  • the warp density is 135 / 2.54 cm and the weft density is 80/2.
  • a .54 cm 2/2 twill fabric was obtained.
  • the obtained woven fabric is continuously scoured, subjected to moist heat relaxing processing at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes with a liquid flow dyeing machine, passed through an intermediate set under the conditions of 180 ° C. for 1 minute and a width-out rate of 1%, and then with a liquid flow dyeing machine.
  • Polymer 1 was removed by heating to 100 ° C. using a 1% by weight aqueous sodium hydroxide solution (weight loss rate 22%).
  • Example 2 Knitting of Kanoko tissue with 42 wells / 2.54 cm and 40 courses / 2.54 cm with a single circular knitting machine by aligning two composite fibers of 56dtex-36 filament (fiber diameter 12 ⁇ m) according to Example 1. Got Then, it was processed by the processing method described in Example 1 to obtain a knitted knitted fabric of Kanoko structure having 42 wells / 2.54 cm and 45 courses / 2.54 cm. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric. In the obtained knitted fabric, 10% or more of the threads of the multifilament were oriented in the same direction.
  • Example 3 Same as Example 1 except that the composite fiber of Example 1 was false-twisted at a magnification of 1.05 and used as a processed yarn of 53dtex-36 filament (fiber diameter 12 ⁇ m, communication width 0.6 ⁇ m) in combination.
  • a woven fabric having a warp density of 178 yarns / 2.54 cm and a warp yarn density of 103 yarns / 2.54 cm was obtained by the above method.
  • Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric.
  • the obtained woven fabric contained less than 10% of multifilaments oriented in the same direction.
  • Example 4 A warp density of 175 yarns / 2.54 cm, a warp and weft in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a Taslan processed yarn (120 dtex-72 filament) using the composite fiber of Example 1 as a core yarn and a sheath yarn was used alone. A woven fabric having a density of 102 yarns / 2.54 cm was obtained. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric. In the obtained woven fabric, 10% or more of the threads of the multifilament were oriented in the same direction.
  • Example 5 The warp and weft density is 180 threads / 2.54 cm and the weft density is 105 by the same method as in Example 1 except that the composite fiber (fiber diameter 12 ⁇ m, communication width 0.5 ⁇ m) having a fiber cross section as shown in FIG. 1 (c) is used.
  • a book / 2.54 cm fabric was obtained.
  • Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric.
  • the obtained woven fabric contained less than 10% of multifilaments oriented in the same direction.
  • Example 1 Example 1 except that the composite fiber (56dtex-36 filament, fiber diameter 12 ⁇ m) having the cross section shown in FIG. 2A using the polymer 2 and the polymer 3 of Example 1 was used and the woven structure was made into a plain weave.
  • Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric. It was inferior in skin release and water retention, and sweat transfer to the outerwear after exercise was remarkable. Moreover, it did not have a natural appearance. In the obtained woven fabric, 10% or more of the threads of the multifilament were oriented in the same direction.
  • Comparative Example 2 Warp and weft density 160 in the same manner as in Comparative Example 1 except that the composite fiber (56dtex-36 filament, fiber diameter 12 ⁇ m) having the cross section shown in FIG. 2 (b) using the polymer 2 and the polymer 3 of Example 1 was used. A woven fabric having a book / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 95 / 2.54 cm was obtained. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric. It was inferior in skin release and water retention, and sweat transfer to the outerwear after exercise was remarkable. Moreover, it did not have a natural appearance. The obtained woven fabric contained less than 10% of multifilaments oriented in the same direction.
  • Example 3 A woven fabric having a warp density of 158 threads / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 95 threads / 2.54 cm was obtained in the same manner as in Example 5 except that the polymer 3 was used instead of the polymer 2.
  • Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric. The stretchability of the fabric was inferior, and the skin release property and the ease of movement were inferior. Moreover, it did not have a natural appearance.
  • the obtained woven fabric contained less than 10% of multifilaments oriented in the same direction.
  • Comparative Example 4 Examples except that the composite fiber of Comparative Example 3 was false-twisted by the same method as in Example 3 and used as a processed yarn of 53 dtex-36 filament (fiber diameter 12 ⁇ m, communication width 0.6 ⁇ m) in combination.
  • a woven fabric having a warp density of 163 yarns / 2.54 cm and a warp yarn density of 99 yarns / 2.54 cm was obtained by the same method.
  • Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric. Due to the elongation of the dough, the unevenness of the surface of the dough was reduced, and the skin release property was inferior. Moreover, it did not have a natural appearance.
  • the obtained woven fabric contained less than 10% of multifilaments oriented in the same direction.
  • Example 5 Warp and weft density 180 in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the composite fiber (56dtex-36 filament, fiber diameter 12 ⁇ m) having the cross section shown in FIG. 2 (c) using the polymer 2 and the polymer 3 of Example 1 was used. A woven fabric having a book / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 105 / 2.54 cm was obtained. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric. It had low water absorption and poor skin release, and sweat transfer to the outerwear after exercise was remarkable. In the obtained woven fabric, 10% or more of the threads of the multifilament were oriented in the same direction.
  • Example 6 Using the same composite fibers as in Example 5, a woven fabric having a warp density of 160 threads / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 95 threads / 2.54 cm was obtained by the same method as in Example 1 except that the woven structure was made into a plain weave. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric. Although non-uniform grain was generated and Sq was large, the texture was reduced due to the elongation of the fabric, and the skin release property was inferior. The obtained woven fabric contained less than 10% of multifilaments oriented in the same direction.
  • the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention is excellent in wearing comfort and appearance by reducing the sticking of the fabric to the skin when worn and reducing the exudation of sweat to the outer.
  • it since it has a natural appearance, it can be suitably used for general clothing such as jackets, skirts, pants, and underwear, as well as sports clothing, clothing materials, and the like.
  • Fiber center I The area of the fiber cross section passes through the fiber center.
  • the area ratio of the sparingly soluble polymer on the high melting point side and the sparingly soluble polymer on the low melting point side in the left and right fiber cross sections with the straight line as the boundary is 100: 0 in either the left or right fiber cross section.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
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