WO2021152177A1 - Tissé textile utilisé pour fabriquer une pièce vestimentaire et pièce vestimentaire ainsi obtenue - Google Patents

Tissé textile utilisé pour fabriquer une pièce vestimentaire et pièce vestimentaire ainsi obtenue Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2021152177A1
WO2021152177A1 PCT/EP2021/052324 EP2021052324W WO2021152177A1 WO 2021152177 A1 WO2021152177 A1 WO 2021152177A1 EP 2021052324 W EP2021052324 W EP 2021052324W WO 2021152177 A1 WO2021152177 A1 WO 2021152177A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
garment
clothing
pattern
parts
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2021/052324
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Walter KIKELJ
Marco LINDNER
Original Assignee
Getzner Textil Aktiengesellschaft
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from CH00641/20A external-priority patent/CH717463A1/de
Application filed by Getzner Textil Aktiengesellschaft filed Critical Getzner Textil Aktiengesellschaft
Priority to EP21701035.4A priority Critical patent/EP4097280A1/fr
Publication of WO2021152177A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021152177A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/08—Patterns on the cloth, e.g. printed
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • D03D11/02—Fabrics formed with pockets, tubes, loops, folds, tucks or flaps
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a textile fabric with a first and a second surface for producing an item of clothing in a predetermined body size, for example an item of sports clothing, a pattern with several parts for tailoring the item of clothing being optically recognizable on one of the surfaces.
  • the garment is created by cutting and sewing the pieces together so that each of the pieces has one of its surfaces facing the body when worn and the opposite surface facing away from the body.
  • the invention also relates to such a garment.
  • Textile fabrics also called woven fabric or simply called fabric here, are widespread in a wide variety of variants and are ideal for tailoring items of clothing in given body sizes.
  • Another object is to describe a garment made from such a fabric.
  • this item of clothing should also have additional, improved properties.
  • markings are formed by color or pattern changes in a textile fabric mentioned at the beginning, which cutting and / or seam lines of the individual Mark parts of the pattern.
  • the pattern shown in this way deviates from the specified dimensions of the later item of clothing both in the direction of the warp and the weft threads by less than 3% and less than 1 cm.
  • Fabrics produced in this way can be cut immediately along the visible pattern changes without having to create a pattern, cut it out and transfer its contours to the fabric.
  • the pieces obtained in this way can be cut out and sewn together in a conventional manner to tailor items of clothing in the desired sizes.
  • cavities such as pockets
  • the cavities or pockets are each arranged between the inside and the outside of the later item of clothing.
  • Such pockets if they are accessible from one side of the fabric, do not cause a seam or a visible contour on the other side of the fabric.
  • the garments made from such parts are novel in terms of their functions and appearance.
  • the seams can be designed in such a way that their fabric edges lie completely within the cavities and no seam protrudes on either side, although the fabric itself, apart from the locations of the cavities, is single-ply.
  • Zippers can also be sewn in without a visible seam, which means that items of clothing such as jackets can be created that can be worn on both sides without the seams being visible or protruding, even though the jacket has a single layer.
  • Inlay parts such as protectors can also be inserted into such cavities without the need to sew pockets and without the seams being visible.
  • the cavities can also be used to create pockets integrated into the garments for storing personal items.
  • FIG. 1 shows a schematic representation of a fabric according to the invention as
  • Fig. 2 is a schematic partial sectional view of a fabric with a
  • Cavity shows a schematic representation of a plan view of the tissue with a cavity designed as a pocket; 4 shows a perspective, schematic representation of a part cut out of the fabric, a) with an integrated pocket for personal use; b) with an integrated pocket with inserts;
  • 5 shows a perspective, schematic representation of a fabric cut on a cutting line with a cut open cavity in the seam area, with two fabric edges; 6 shows a perspective illustration of a tissue cut along a cutting line with a channel in the seam area;
  • FIG. 7 shows a perspective, schematic representation of a fabric according to FIG. 5, to which a connecting part has been sewn between its two fabric edges
  • FIG. 8 shows a perspective, schematic representation of a fabric according to FIG. 6, to which a connecting part has been sewn, encased by its channel;
  • FIG. 9 shows a view of an item of clothing according to the invention.
  • This fabric 1 shows a roll of fabric with the textile fabric 1 according to the invention.
  • This fabric 1 comprises a first and a second surface 2, 2 'and is suitable for producing an item of clothing 3 of a given body size.
  • an item of sportswear in particular a motorcycle jacket, can be produced therefrom.
  • a warp thread 6 and a weft thread 7 are also shown schematically on the side.
  • the item of clothing 3, here a sportswear jacket, is created by cutting out and sewing the individual parts 4 together.
  • Each of the parts 4 is with one of its surfaces, 2 respectively. 2 ', when worn facing the body and with the opposite surface 2', respectively. 2 of this part 4 facing away from the body.
  • markings 8 are formed by color or pattern changes 9 during the manufacturing process on at least one of these surfaces 2, 2 ', which cutting and / or seam lines 10, 11 of the individual parts of the pattern 4 mark.
  • the woven pattern 4 shown in this way deviates from the specified dimensions of the later item of clothing 3 both in the direction of the warp and weft threads 6, 7 by less than 3% and less than 1 cm, even if the fabric 1 is over the entire surface and in both directions is elastic.
  • the dimensional accuracy is very important so that the parts 4 can later be made into the desired item of clothing 3. All parts 4 must therefore have the appropriate dimensions for each size of women and men. Depending on the type of fabric 1, the mass during weaving does not yet correspond to the specifications, since the fabric 1 can still shrink in the following processes after weaving. It is therefore necessary to recalculate the mass and to regularly check the final mass of the finished fabrics 1.
  • the markings for cutting lines 10 and seam lines 11 can also be woven into different surfaces 2, 2 '.
  • the fabric 1 is preferably elastic over the entire surface in the direction of the warp and weft threads 6, 7, since this is required for many sports suits. Elastic fabrics 1, however, have a different mass during production, that is to say during weaving.
  • parts 4 produced in this way have the advantage that it is known even before weaving where a certain point in the fabric 1 will later be located in the garment 3. It is therefore possible to directly weave additional patterns or color changes 9 adapted to the pattern 4 into the fabric 1, as a result of which logos, texts or graphic images 12 are created at predefined locations on the later, finished item of clothing 3. In addition, it is possible in this way to identify functional locations, such as locations for sewing on buttons, buttonholes or other cutting lines along which later cuts must be made, with woven-in markings 8. All of this inevitably means that the cutting patterns 4 are woven into the fabric 1 at the same time.
  • the fabric 1 according to the invention is produced in a single layer and has at least partially an area 13 with a single fabric layer 15 within the pattern 4.
  • cavities 14 adapted to the cutting pattern 4 are arranged or respectively at one or more intended locations of the fabric 1. woven in. These were created during weaving between the two surfaces 2, 2 ', in that two warp and weft threads 6, 7 that are not connected to one another over a surface area, separate two from one another, parallel to one another extending layers of fabric 15 are formed in the fabric 1.
  • the cavities 14 are at least 3-5 square centimeters in size, they are generally larger, for example the size of a hand, as large as a pocket for inserting something, or in the shape of a channel.
  • Each part 4 comprises at least one single-layer area 13 in a central area within the part 4, away from the cutting or seam lines 10,
  • a marking 8 for a further cutting line 10 is preferably woven into a fabric 1 on a fabric layer 15 of a cavity 14. Such a marking 8 is shown on a pocket 17 in FIG. 3.
  • the cutting along this marking 8 creates an opening 16 to the pocket 17, to which a zip fastener or another fastener can be attached.
  • the open cut edge 20 does not have to be further processed, for example sewn. In particular, if it is an inside pocket, this has the advantage that nothing is visible from the outside, and no zipper is pushed through, even if the area of the pocket is close to the body.
  • markings 8 can also be used to mark functional locations for further processing steps. For example, additional cuts can be made in areas of, for example, channel-shaped or ring-shaped cavities 14 free fabric edges 20 are created in the middle of the fabric 1, on which one side of the fabric 1, ie on one of the surfaces 2, 2 ', further parts 4 or a connecting part 23 can be sewn without a seam 21 on the other side of the surface 2 'To generate 2.
  • FIGS. 4 a and 4 b show examples of cut-out parts 4, each of which includes a cavity 14.
  • Fig. 4a for example, the front part of a jacket is shown, in Fig. 4b a part of a sleeve.
  • one of the cavities 14 is designed and arranged in the pattern 4 in such a way that it can be used in the later item of clothing 3, as shown in FIG. 9, after the configuration of a corresponding opening 16 as a pocket 17 integrated in the item of clothing 3.
  • the openings 16 can be created by cutting open one of the fabric layers 15.
  • the pocket 17 in Fig. 4a represents a breast pocket and is suitable for personal use. It can be made accessible either from the inside or the outside.
  • FIG. 4b is arranged on the elbow and is suitable as a pocket 17 for inserting an insert 18.
  • a protector 18 is inserted into the pocket 17.
  • pockets 17 What is remarkable about these pockets 17 is that their contours are not visible, and there are also no seams that could be visible from the outside.
  • no pockets have to be sewn on, which in turn saves effort. In the case of garments 3 produced in this way, considerable costs can therefore be saved.
  • pockets 17 can be placed on one side, as described above, by sewing them to a cut fabric layer 15 of a cavity 14 that results in a free fabric edge 20 .
  • bulky protectors 18 can be used.
  • the tissue 1 has a cavity 14 configured as a channel along a cutting line 10 of a part 4.
  • the cavity 14 is cut open at the cutting line 10 and forms two fabric edges 20 with open ends, to which two seams 21 can be attached.
  • the cavity 14 is designed as a closed channel 22 in that a little of a single-layer area 13 is retained between the cutting line 10 and the cavity 14 in order to keep the channel 22 closed.
  • a further part 4 for example a connection part 23 or a zipper 24, is inserted between the two fabric edges 20 as described in FIG. 5 and sewn to them in such a way that only one seam 21 is visible on both surfaces 2, 2 ′ is.
  • this is referred to as a hem 26 that is clean on both sides, since no hem protrudes on either side. Both sides look the same.
  • the two ends of the fabric edges 20 are folded inwards, the connecting part 23, 24 is pushed in between and the whole is connected with a seam 21.
  • FIG. 8 shows a further possibility for producing such a hem 26 which is clean on both sides.
  • a part 4 with a channel 22 in the hem area, as described in FIG. 6, is sewn to a connection part 23, 24 in that the channel 22 is frontally compressed and grips on both sides over a fabric edge 20 of the connection part 23, 24.
  • This is then sewn together with a seam 21.
  • This seam 21 also forms a hem 26 which is clean on both sides and which looks the same from both surfaces 2, 2 '; there is no visible hem. Handling is somewhat easier here because there are no open fabric edges in the area of the channel 22 that could slip away during sewing.
  • clean hems 26 are created on both sides.
  • the fabric 1 adjoining the seams 26 is each configured as a single-layer area (13).
  • items of clothing 3 such as suits for motorcycling with or without protectors 18, but also work clothing with or without cut protection inserts for working with a chainsaw, or protective clothing for security personnel can be made.
  • the fabric 1 according to the invention is therefore suitable for a wide variety of applications. Although the effort initially appears to be great to weave complete cutting patterns 4 into a fabric 1, this results in undreamt-of possibilities for introducing further functions into the fabric 1, which are directly and directly linked to the respective cutting pattern 4. This creates garments 3 which also make an ongoing impression from the inside, whereby the manufacture and attachment of an inner lining can be saved. Inscriptions and logos 12 can already be attached during weaving, which saves further steps through application or printing. Pockets 17 can also be integrated without even a single seam having to be attached. Pockets 17 placed on one side can also be attached to free fabric edges 20 without a seam being visible from the outside.
  • Such items of clothing 3, as shown in FIG. 9, are suitable, for example, for athletes as sports, two-wheeler, motorcycle, outdoor or hiking clothing, or as protective clothing for security personnel. They are made of a single-layer fabric 1, which can partially have two layers of fabric 15 and which has an integrated, woven-in pattern 4 with the dimensions of a given clothing size. In addition, the fabric 1 can be elastic over the entire surface in the direction of the warp and weft threads 6, 7.
  • Preferred items of clothing 3 have cavities 14 which are designed as integrated pockets 17 for personal use or as pockets 17 which are provided with insert parts 18, for example protectors.
  • the openings 16 of the Pockets 17 can be sewn, sealed with a welding surface 25 or provided with a zipper 24.
  • items of clothing 3 can be produced from single-layer fabric 1, which include seams 21 with a clean hem 26 on both sides and therefore do not protrude onto any surface 2, 2 '. Therefore, both sides of the garment 3 could be worn to the outside, respectively. no lining is required so that the item of clothing 3 also looks clean on the inside.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un tissé textile (1) comportant une première et une seconde surface (2, 2'), utilisé pour fabriquer une pièce vestimentaire (3) d'une taille prédéfinie, un patron (4) comportant des parties (4) destinées à apiécer la pièce vestimentaire (3) pouvant être identifiées optiquement sur une des surfaces (2, 2'). Selon l'invention, lors du processus de fabrication, des repères sont réalisés sur une de ces surfaces (2, 2'), par changement de teinte ou de patron (9), en raison de l'entrelacement des fils de chaîne et des fils de trame (6, 7), lesdits repères caractérisant des lignes de coupe et/ou de lignes de couture (10, 11) des parties individuelles (4) du patron (4). Le patron (4) ainsi représenté diffère d'au moins plus de 3% et de moins de 1 cm de la spécification de dimension de la future pièce vestimentaire (3), aussi bien en direction des fils de chaîne qu'également des fils de trame (, 7). L'invention concerne en outre une pièce vestimentaire (3) réalisée à partir d'un tel tissé.
PCT/EP2021/052324 2020-01-30 2021-02-01 Tissé textile utilisé pour fabriquer une pièce vestimentaire et pièce vestimentaire ainsi obtenue WO2021152177A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP21701035.4A EP4097280A1 (fr) 2020-01-30 2021-02-01 Tissé textile utilisé pour fabriquer une pièce vestimentaire et pièce vestimentaire ainsi obtenue

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH1102020 2020-01-30
CH00110/20 2020-01-30
CH00641/20 2020-05-29
CH00641/20A CH717463A1 (de) 2020-05-29 2020-05-29 Textiles Gewebe zur Herstellung eines Kleidungsstücks und Kleidungsstück daraus.

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2021152177A1 true WO2021152177A1 (fr) 2021-08-05

Family

ID=74673172

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2021/052324 WO2021152177A1 (fr) 2020-01-30 2021-02-01 Tissé textile utilisé pour fabriquer une pièce vestimentaire et pièce vestimentaire ainsi obtenue

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP4097280A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2021152177A1 (fr)

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3286739A (en) * 1962-10-25 1966-11-22 Itakura Masaji Process of manufacturing a textile fabric for pocket materials having no stitched seam
EP1091029A1 (fr) 1999-10-04 2001-04-11 Kabushiki Kaisha Miyake Design Jimusho Tissu et procédé pour fabriquer des articles à patrir de ce dernier
JP2006009172A (ja) * 2004-06-23 2006-01-12 Miyake Design Jimusho:Kk 布帛より布製品のパーツの切り出し方法及び布製品の縫製方法
WO2008099830A1 (fr) * 2007-02-13 2008-08-21 Kabushiki Kaisha Miyake Design Jimusho Etoffe colorée

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3286739A (en) * 1962-10-25 1966-11-22 Itakura Masaji Process of manufacturing a textile fabric for pocket materials having no stitched seam
EP1091029A1 (fr) 1999-10-04 2001-04-11 Kabushiki Kaisha Miyake Design Jimusho Tissu et procédé pour fabriquer des articles à patrir de ce dernier
JP2006009172A (ja) * 2004-06-23 2006-01-12 Miyake Design Jimusho:Kk 布帛より布製品のパーツの切り出し方法及び布製品の縫製方法
WO2008099830A1 (fr) * 2007-02-13 2008-08-21 Kabushiki Kaisha Miyake Design Jimusho Etoffe colorée

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP4097280A1 (fr) 2022-12-07

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
DE60014544T2 (de) Gewebe und Verfahren zur Herstellung von Bekleidungsstücken
DE69122593T2 (de) Kleidungsstück und Verfahren zu seiner Herstellung
DE202013012814U1 (de) Strickbekleidungsartikel und Textildrucker
DE202008001340U1 (de) Radsportoberbekleidung
DE2752312A1 (de) Kleidungsstueck fuer den unteren teil des menschlichen koerpers und verfahren zu seiner herstellung
DE202020102344U1 (de) Mund- und Nasenmaske
DE2050143A1 (de) Beinkleid, Verfahren zur Herstellung desselben und Vorrichtung zum Durchfuhren des Verfahrens
DE817433C (de) Bade- und Sportanzug
DE3113598A1 (de) Bekleidungsstueck in form eines gewebeschlauches und verfahren zu seiner herstellung
EP2792259A1 (fr) Procédé de fabrication et d'application de poches apposées sur des textiles et dispositif associé
WO2021152177A1 (fr) Tissé textile utilisé pour fabriquer une pièce vestimentaire et pièce vestimentaire ainsi obtenue
CH717463A1 (de) Textiles Gewebe zur Herstellung eines Kleidungsstücks und Kleidungsstück daraus.
DE903081C (de) Kleidungsstueck und Verfahren zur Herstellung desselben
WO1998001045A1 (fr) Cravate variable, d'une seule piece, a usages multiples
DE60204579T2 (de) Bekleidungsstück
DE102016004469B4 (de) Zusätzliche Lochleiste zum nachträglichen Einbringen in Bekleidung
EP3581043A1 (fr) Variable habillement combinaison
DE2611981A1 (de) Gestrickte hosen und verfahren zu ihrer herstellung
DE60002197T2 (de) Umkehrbare Jacke und Hose aus Denimstoff
DE1147182B (de) Von zwei Seiten zu tragende Badehose oder Shorts
DE102019002834A1 (de) Bekleidungsartikel
DE1791613U (de) Doppelseitig tragbare oberbekleidung.
WO2021083816A1 (fr) Face arrière d'une chemise
AT312539B (de) Einlagestoff für Bekleidung
DE3315400A1 (de) Bekleidungsstueck mit aermeln und verfahren zu seiner herstellung

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 21701035

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

ENP Entry into the national phase

Ref document number: 2021701035

Country of ref document: EP

Effective date: 20220830