WO2021134804A1 - 一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺 - Google Patents

一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021134804A1
WO2021134804A1 PCT/CN2020/070396 CN2020070396W WO2021134804A1 WO 2021134804 A1 WO2021134804 A1 WO 2021134804A1 CN 2020070396 W CN2020070396 W CN 2020070396W WO 2021134804 A1 WO2021134804 A1 WO 2021134804A1
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fabric
thread
sponge
finishing
heat
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PCT/CN2020/070396
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English (en)
French (fr)
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景小莲
葛坤锋
贲海波
陈勇
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江苏华艺服饰有限公司
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Publication of WO2021134804A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021134804A1/zh

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06J—PLEATING, KILTING OR GOFFERING TEXTILE FABRICS OR WEARING APPAREL
    • D06J1/00—Pleating, kilting or goffering textile fabrics or wearing apparel

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the field of wrinkle technology, and more specifically, to a process for preparing wrinkles of a mat based on artistic dyeing and finishing.
  • the narrow interpretation of wrinkle craft products is the wrinkling finishing process of fabrics and clothes.
  • the main feature of the product wrinkles.
  • the factors that determine the pattern and fold effect fabric composition, performance (thickness, color), shrinkage of heat-sensitive film, embroidered pattern, height of sponge, different heating equipment, changes in process parameters, and superposition of processes.
  • the pleating process is widely used in classic fashion women's clothing.
  • This series of products uses a very beautiful line-oriented cushion shrinking process to present the beauty of the human body and the dynamic beauty, and show the unique ceremoniity through unique fabrics.
  • a rich fabric reconstruction texture is created.
  • the use of folds increases the sense of space of the garment, enhances the structure and shape of the garment; at the same time increases the degree of tolerance.
  • the biggest problem is the removal of the setting line before and after shrinking.
  • the setting line is usually thin, so it is difficult to directly locate it when removing it later. It is difficult to remove and the workload is large.
  • the setting line will generate tension on the fabric. When removing, the part that the setting line passes through will increase the gap on the surface of the fabric, which affects the overall quality of the fabric.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to provide a process for preparing folds of pads based on artistic dyeing and finishing, which can realize the use of water-soluble special threads as embroidery threads and use computer embroidery to embroider clothes.
  • the sheet is fixed on the heat-sensitive film that shrinks when heated, and then heats and shrinks together, then washes off the thread, irons and sets.
  • it effectively reduces the difficulty of fabric peeling after shrinking treatment, and effectively improves the efficiency of fabric shrinking treatment.
  • it can effectively protect the fabric from being damaged by thread pulling; in addition, the way of connecting the sponge and the fabric can be changed by setting the broken glue layer.
  • the fabric can effectively ensure that the fabric will not be affected by the thread when the heat-sensitive film shrinks under heat.
  • the pulling force of the fabric effectively ensures that the gaps on the fabric are uniform and the quality is better.
  • it effectively prevents the sponge debris from adhering to the fabric during peeling, thereby effectively reducing the difficulty and workload of subsequent cleaning of the fabric.
  • the present invention adopts the following technical solutions.
  • a process for preparing pad folds based on artistic dyeing and finishing includes the following steps:
  • the sponge is sandwiched between the fabric and the heat-sensitive film and fixed by hand-sewn quilting at the edges of the three to form a cotton pre-folded layer with positioning pre-cut lines on the edge;
  • the heat-sensitive film is shrunk and shaped by high-temperature crumpling with a crumpling machine
  • the fabric is dehydrated, dried by suction, and then artificially shaped.
  • the bottom thread of the embroidery quilting thread is a water-soluble thread, so that when the fabric, sponge and heat-sensitive film are peeled off, they are directly immersed in water to dissolve and then separated, which effectively reduces the workload of the staff during peeling.
  • the thickness of the sponge is 2-3mm.
  • the sponge When the heat-sensitive film shrinks under heat, the sponge is too thick, which easily causes the fabric to be less affected by the heat-sensitive film, resulting in insignificant wrinkles on the resulting fabric; When shrinking, the sponge will be pulled by the embroidery quilting thread.
  • the sponge is too thin, and it is very easy to be broken when it is stressed, which causes too much sponge debris to adhere to the fabric during separation, which increases the workload of cleaning the fabric. .
  • a plurality of evenly distributed upper dense sutures may be connected between the sponge and the heat-sensitive film in the S3, so that the sponge and the heat-sensitive source are integrated, and the edges of the heat-sensitive film, sponge and fabric are connected There are sutures running through the edges, and a broken thread glue layer is arranged between the sponge and the fabric.
  • the broken thread glue layer connects the fabric and the sponge instead of connecting with threads.
  • the broken thread glue layer includes a plurality of glue drops arranged between the sponge and the fabric, and a plurality of randomly distributed residual threads are glued between the adjacent glue drops, so that the glue drops are centered.
  • the glue drop receives the shrinking force of the heat-sensitive film, the force can be transferred to the fabric through the remaining thread, so that the fabric shrinks with the shrinkage of the heat-sensitive film.
  • the residual thread is made of textile thread-shaped leftover material, which effectively improves the waste utilization rate, and the length of the residual thread is 1-1.5 times the distance between adjacent glue drops.
  • the glue drops are formed by water-soluble glue drops on the fabric, which effectively reduces the difficulty of preparing the broken peptized layer, thereby effectively improving the work efficiency of the fabric shrinkage treatment.
  • the upper dense suture is made of water-insoluble thread
  • the penetrating edge suture is made of water-soluble thread.
  • the upper dense suture and the through-edge suture are made of water-insoluble thread.
  • the lower end of the fabric edge is provided with a control line
  • the control line is connected to the fabric by a thread that penetrates the edge
  • the broken line glue layer is dissolved by pulling the control line downward to separate the control line from the fabric.
  • This solution can realize the use of special water-soluble threads as embroidery threads, and use computer embroidery to fix the garment pieces on the heat-sensitive film that shrinks when heated, and then heat and shrink the threads together, and then wash off the threads.
  • Ironing and shaping on the one hand, effectively reduces the difficulty of fabric peeling after shrinkage treatment, effectively improves the efficiency of fabric shrinkage treatment, and on the other hand, it effectively protects the fabric from being damaged by thread pulling; in addition, through the setting of the broken thread glue layer, The method of connecting the sponge and the fabric can be changed. On the one hand, it can effectively ensure that the fabric will not be pulled by the thread when the heat-sensitive film shrinks under heat, thereby effectively ensuring that the fabric has uniform gaps and better quality. On the other hand, when peeling off, It can effectively prevent the sponge debris from adhering to the fabric, thereby effectively reducing the difficulty and workload of subsequent cleaning of the fabric.
  • the bottom thread of the embroidery quilting thread is a water-soluble thread, so that when the fabric, sponge and heat-sensitive film are peeled off, they can be directly soaked in water to dissolve and then they can be separated, effectively reducing the workload of the staff during peeling.
  • the thickness of the sponge is 2-3mm.
  • the sponge When the heat-sensitive film shrinks by heat, the sponge is too thick, which will easily cause the fabric to be less affected by the heat-sensitive film, resulting in insignificant wrinkles on the resulting fabric; when the heat-sensitive film shrinks , The sponge will be pulled by the embroidery quilting thread. If the sponge is too thin, it is very easy to be broken when it is stressed, resulting in too much sponge debris sticking to the fabric during separation, resulting in an increase in the workload of cleaning the fabric.
  • the broken thread glue layer includes a plurality of glue drops arranged between the sponge and the fabric, and a plurality of messy residual threads are glued between adjacent glue drops, so that the glue drop is the midpoint.
  • the residual thread is made of textile thread-shaped scraps, which effectively improves the utilization rate of waste, and the length of the residual thread is 1-1.5 times the distance between adjacent glue drops.
  • Glue drops are formed by water-soluble glue droplets on the fabric, which effectively reduces the difficulty of preparing the broken thread peptized layer, thereby effectively improving the work efficiency of the fabric shrinkage treatment.
  • the upper dense suture is made of water-insoluble thread
  • the penetrating edge suture is made of water-soluble thread.
  • Both the upper dense suture and the through-edge suture are made of water-insoluble thread.
  • control lines there are control lines at the lower end of the fabric edge.
  • the control lines are connected with the fabric through the stitching through the edge. After the broken line peptization layer is dissolved, the control lines are pulled downwards to separate the control lines from the fabric.
  • the fabric By controlling the through-edge stitching between the line and the fabric, the fabric can be peeled off, or it can be cut directly along the positioning pre-cut line, tightly retaining the part of the fabric located inside the through-edge stitching, and effectively removing the heat-sensitive film on the edge of the fabric
  • the shrinkage force is pulled through the edge stitches, so as to ensure the uniformity of the gaps on the overall surface of the fabric and improve the quality of the fabric.
  • Figure 1 is a main flow block diagram of the present invention
  • Figure 2 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the cotton pad pre-wrinkled layer of the present invention.
  • Figure 3 is a three-dimensional schematic diagram of the pre-folded layer of cotton pad according to the present invention.
  • Example 4 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the pre-wrinkled layer of cotton pad in Example 2 of the present invention.
  • Example 5 is a schematic diagram of the front structure of the cotton pad pre-wrinkled layer in Example 2 of the present invention.
  • FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram of the structure at B in FIG. 5;
  • Example 7 is a schematic view of the front structure of the cotton pad pre-wrinkled layer in Example 3 of the present invention.
  • FIG. 8 is a schematic diagram of the structure at B in FIG. 7.
  • connection can be a fixed connection, a detachable connection, or an integral connection; it can be a mechanical connection or an electrical connection; it can be directly connected or indirectly connected through an intermediate medium, and it can be inside two components. ⁇ Connectivity.
  • Connection can be a fixed connection, a detachable connection, or an integral connection; it can be a mechanical connection or an electrical connection; it can be directly connected or indirectly connected through an intermediate medium, and it can be inside two components. ⁇ Connectivity.
  • the sponge is sandwiched between the fabric and the heat-sensitive film and fixed by hand-sewn quilting at the edges of the three to form a cotton pre-folded layer with positioning pre-cut lines on the edge;
  • the heat-sensitive film is shrunk and shaped by high-temperature crumpling with a crumpling machine
  • the fabric is dehydrated, dried by suction, and then artificially shaped.
  • the bottom line of the embroidery quilting thread is a water-soluble thread, so that when the fabric, sponge and heat-sensitive film are peeled off, they can be directly soaked in water to dissolve and then separated, which effectively reduces the workload of the staff during peeling.
  • the thickness of the sponge is 2-3mm When the heat-sensitive film shrinks by heat, the sponge is too thick, which will easily cause the fabric to be less affected by the heat-sensitive film, resulting in unobvious wrinkles on the fabric; when the heat-sensitive film shrinks, the sponge will be pulled by the embroidery quilting thread , The sponge is too thin, it is very easy to be broken when the force is applied, resulting in excessive adhesion of the sponge debris to the fabric during separation, resulting in an increase in the workload of cleaning the fabric.
  • the fabric has high color fastness to heat and can withstand high temperature without fading and discoloration.
  • the hand feel of the fabric should be properly handled and not too soft, otherwise it will affect the fold setting effect.
  • all the fabrics should be woven and dyed.
  • the embroidery needles should be imported with small round heads. Needle to avoid too big needle holes; accurate shrinkage of the heat-sensitive film to ensure stable dimensions of the finished product after folds; water-soluble thread to ensure that it is easy to wash and remove the thread without leaving any residue.
  • a number of evenly distributed upper dense sutures 11 can be connected between the sponge and the heat-sensitive film, so that the sponge and the heat-sensitive source are integrated, and the edges of the heat-sensitive film, sponge and fabric
  • a thread-breaking glue layer is arranged between the sponge and the fabric.
  • the thread-broken glue layer connects the fabric and the sponge instead of connecting with threads.
  • it can effectively ensure that the heat-sensitive film shrinks when the heat-sensitive film is heated. It will not be affected by the tension of the thread, thereby effectively ensuring that the gaps on the fabric are uniform and the quality is better.
  • peeling it can effectively prevent the sponge debris from sticking to the fabric, thereby effectively reducing the difficulty and work of subsequent cleaning of the fabric.
  • the broken thread glue layer includes a plurality of glue drops 3 arranged between the sponge and the fabric, and a plurality of messyly distributed residual threads 4 are glued between adjacent glue drops 3, so that the glue drop 3 is the midpoint
  • the glue drop 3 is the midpoint
  • the residual thread 4 is made of textile thread-shaped scraps, which effectively improves the waste utilization rate, and the length of the residual thread 4 is 1-1.5 times the distance between adjacent glue drops 3.
  • the glue drop 3 is formed by water-soluble glue droplets on the fabric. Effectively reduce the difficulty of preparing the broken thread glue layer, thereby effectively improving the work efficiency of fabric shrinkage treatment.
  • the upper dense suture 11 is made of water-insoluble thread
  • the penetrating edge suture 12 is made of water-soluble thread.
  • this embodiment The biggest difference between this embodiment and embodiment 1 is the connection method of the heat-sensitive film, sponge and fabric, so that the fabric peeling method is different, and it can effectively avoid the occurrence of the sponge sticking to the fabric after peeling, effectively reducing the work
  • the workload of the personnel to clean the fabric after peeling, and this embodiment can also prevent the fabric from being pulled by the thread, thereby effectively ensuring uniform voids on the fabric and better quality.
  • Both the upper dense stitching 11 and the through-edge stitching 12 are made of water-insoluble thread.
  • the lower end of the fabric edge is provided with a control line 2, which is connected to the fabric by a through-edge stitching 12 After the broken thread glue layer is dissolved, pull the control line 2 downward to separate the control line 2 from the fabric. At this time, cut the through edge stitch 12 between the control line 2 and the fabric to realize the peeling of the fabric.
  • the biggest difference between this embodiment and Embodiment 2 is the material of the through-edge stitches 12.
  • the material of the through-edge stitches 12 is different, so that there is a difference in the way of peeling off the fabric in this embodiment and Embodiment 2.
  • the other parts are maintained and implemented.
  • Example 2 is consistent.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
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Abstract

一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺，属于褶皱工艺领域，可以实现将可溶于水的特殊线做绣花线，用电脑绣花的方式把衣片固定在遇热即缩皱的热敏膜上一起加热缩皱，然后汰洗去线、整烫定型，一方面有效降低了对于皱缩处理后面料剥离的难度，有效提高面料皱缩处理效率，另一方面有效保护面料不易受到线拉扯损坏；此外，通过断线胶溶层的设置，可以改变连接海绵和面料的方式，一方面有效保证热敏膜在受热收缩时，面料不会受到线的拉力作用，进而有效保证面料上空隙均匀，质量更好，另一方面，在剥离时，有效避免海绵碎屑粘附在面料上，进而有效降低后续对面料清理的难度以及工作量。

Description

一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺 技术领域
本发明涉及褶皱工艺领域，更具体地说，涉及一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺。
背景技术
褶皱工艺产品，狭义解释就是面料再造成衣的起皱整理工艺，其产品主要特点：褶皱。决定图案及褶皱效果的因素：面料成分、性能(厚薄、颜色)，热敏膜的缩率，绣花的花型，海绵的高度，加热设备的不同和工艺参数的变化以及工艺的叠加。
褶皱工艺广泛应用于经典时尚女装，本系列产品使用极富美感的线条定向垫绵收缩工艺，以呈现人体美及动态美，通过别具一格的面料展现独特的女性气质。通过不断扩散的线条纹理，营造出丰富的面料再造肌理。褶皱的运用增加了服装的空间感，增强成衣的结构与廓型感；同时增加了包容度。符合高贵典雅气质的高品质女性。整体系列把时尚、复古诠释得淋漓尽致。
对于面料进行皱缩处理过程中，最大的问题是皱缩前后对于定型线的拆除，一方面为了保证不对面料造成大的伤害，定型线通常较细，因而后期在拆除时，很难直接定位，导致拆除难度和工作量较大，另一方面，定型线会对面料产生拉力，在拆除时，易导致定型线穿过的部分会将面料表面间隙变大，影响面料整体的质量。
发明内容
1.要解决的技术问题
针对现有技术中存在的问题，本发明的目的在于提供一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺，它可以实现将可溶于水的特殊线做绣花线，用电脑绣花的方式把衣片固定在遇热即缩皱的热敏膜上一起加热缩皱，然后汰洗去线、整烫定型，一方面有效降低了对于皱缩处理后面料剥离的难度，有效提高面料皱缩处理效率，另一方面有效保护面料不易受到线拉扯损坏；此外，通过断线胶溶层的设置，可以改变连接海绵和面料的方式，一方面有效保证热敏膜在受热收缩时，面料不会受到线的拉力作用，进而有效保证面料上空隙均匀，质量更好，另一方面，在剥离时，有效避免海绵碎屑粘附在面料上，进而有效降低后续对面料清理的难度以及工作量。
2.技术方案
为解决上述问题，本发明采用如下的技术方案。
一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺，包括以下步骤：
S1、根据设计图稿制作水溶绣花绗线版；
S2、根据所需制备的垫棉选择面料、海绵和热敏膜；
S3、将海绵夹于面料和热敏膜中间并在三者边缘手缝绗线固定，形成边缘带有定位预切线的垫棉预褶皱层；
S4、通过绣花机进行刺绣花绗线；
S5、通过压皱机高温压皱，使热敏膜收缩定型；
S6、将垫棉预褶皱层泡水从而溶解绣花底线；
S7、手工将面料、海绵和热敏膜剥离；
S8、面料脱水、吸风晾干，之后进行人工整形。
可以实现将可溶于水的特殊线做绣花线，用电脑绣花的方式把衣片固定在遇热即缩皱的热敏膜上一起加热缩皱，然后汰洗去线、整烫 定型，一方面有效降低了对于皱缩处理后面料剥离的难度，有效提高面料皱缩处理效率，另一方面有效保护面料不易受到线拉扯损坏。
进一步的，所述绣花绗线的底线为水溶线，使得在将面料、海绵和热敏膜剥离时，直接泡入水中，进行溶解，即可分离，有效降低工作人员剥离时的工作量。
进一步的，所述海绵厚度为2-3mm，热敏膜在受热收缩时，海绵过厚，容易导致面料受到热敏膜的影响较小，导致得到的面料上的褶皱不明显；热敏膜在收缩时，海绵会受到绣花绗线的拉力，海绵过薄，在受力时极易受力破裂，导致在分离时，海绵碎屑过多粘附在面料上，造成对面料清理工作量的增加。
进一步的，所述S3中海绵和热敏膜之间还可以连接有多个均匀分布的上密集缝线，使得海绵和热敏源成为一体，所述热敏膜、海绵和面料三者边缘连接有贯穿边缘缝线，所述海绵和面料之间设置有断线胶溶层，通过断线胶溶层连接面料和海绵而不是用线连接，一方面有效保证热敏膜在受热收缩时，面料不会受到线的拉力作用，进而有效保证面料上空隙均匀，质量更好，另一方面，在剥离时，有效避免海绵碎屑粘附在面料上，进而有效降低后续对面料清理的难度以及工作量。
进一步的，所述断线胶溶层包括多个设置在海绵和面料之间的胶滴，相邻的所述胶滴之间粘设有多个杂乱分布的残线，使得以胶滴为中点，当热敏膜受热收缩时，胶滴受到热敏膜收缩的力时，能够通过残线将力传递给面料，从而使得面料随热敏膜收缩而皱缩。
进一步的，所述残线采用纺织的线形边角料制成，有效提高废物利用率，且残线长度为相邻胶滴之间距离的1-1.5倍。
进一步的，所述胶滴为水溶性胶水滴在面料上形成，有效降低断线胶溶层的制备难度，从而有效提高面料皱缩处理的工作效率。
进一步的，所述上密集缝线为非水溶性线制成，所述贯穿边缘缝线为水溶性线制成，在剥离时，将垫棉预褶皱层放入水中溶解，此时断线胶溶层和贯穿边缘缝线在水中溶解，使得面料被分离出，此时海绵与热敏膜为一体，有效避免海绵粘附在面料上的情况发生。
进一步的，所述上密集缝线和贯穿边缘缝线均为非水溶性线制成。
进一步的，所述面料边缘下端设有控线条，所述控线条通过贯穿边缘缝线与面料连接在一起，断线胶溶层在溶解后，通过向下拉扯控线条，使得控线条与面料分离，此时割断控线条和面料之间的贯穿边缘缝线，即可实现面料的剥离，或者可以直接沿着定位预切线切割，紧紧保留面料位于贯穿边缘缝线内侧的部分，有效去除面料边缘受到热敏膜收缩力被贯穿边缘缝线拉扯的部分，从而保证面料整体表面空隙的均匀性，提高面料的质量。
3.有益效果
相比于现有技术，本发明的优点在于：
(1)本方案可以实现将可溶于水的特殊线做绣花线，用电脑绣花的方式把衣片固定在遇热即缩皱的热敏膜上一起加热缩皱，然后汰洗去线、整烫定型，一方面有效降低了对于皱缩处理后面料剥离的难度，有效提高面料皱缩处理效率，另一方面有效保护面料不易受到线拉扯损坏；此外，通过断线胶溶层的设置，可以改变连接海绵和面料的方式，一方面有效保证热敏膜在受热收缩时，面料不会受到线的拉力作用，进而有效保证面料上空隙均匀，质量更好，另一方面，在剥 离时，有效避免海绵碎屑粘附在面料上，进而有效降低后续对面料清理的难度以及工作量。
(2)绣花绗线的底线为水溶线，使得在将面料、海绵和热敏膜剥离时，直接泡入水中，进行溶解，即可分离，有效降低工作人员剥离时的工作量。
(3)海绵厚度为2-3mm，热敏膜在受热收缩时，海绵过厚，容易导致面料受到热敏膜的影响较小，导致得到的面料上的褶皱不明显；热敏膜在收缩时，海绵会受到绣花绗线的拉力，海绵过薄，在受力时极易受力破裂，导致在分离时，海绵碎屑过多粘附在面料上，造成对面料清理工作量的增加。
(4)S3中海绵和热敏膜之间还可以连接有多个均匀分布的上密集缝线，使得海绵和热敏源成为一体，热敏膜、海绵和面料三者边缘连接有贯穿边缘缝线，海绵和面料之间设置有断线胶溶层，通过断线胶溶层连接面料和海绵而不是用线连接，一方面有效保证热敏膜在受热收缩时，面料不会受到线的拉力作用，进而有效保证面料上空隙均匀，质量更好，另一方面，在剥离时，有效避免海绵碎屑粘附在面料上，进而有效降低后续对面料清理的难度以及工作量。
(5)断线胶溶层包括多个设置在海绵和面料之间的胶滴，相邻的胶滴之间粘设有多个杂乱分布的残线，使得以胶滴为中点，当热敏膜受热收缩时，胶滴受到热敏膜收缩的力时，能够通过残线将力传递给面料，从而使得面料随热敏膜收缩而皱缩。
(6)残线采用纺织的线形边角料制成，有效提高废物利用率，且残线长度为相邻胶滴之间距离的1-1.5倍。
(7)胶滴为水溶性胶水滴在面料上形成，有效降低断线胶溶层的制备难度，从而有效提高面料皱缩处理的工作效率。
(8)上密集缝线为非水溶性线制成，贯穿边缘缝线为水溶性线制成，在剥离时，将垫棉预褶皱层放入水中溶解，此时断线胶溶层和贯穿边缘缝线在水中溶解，使得面料被分离出，此时海绵与热敏膜为一体，有效避免海绵粘附在面料上的情况发生。
(9)上密集缝线和贯穿边缘缝线均为非水溶性线制成。
(10)面料边缘下端设有控线条，控线条通过贯穿边缘缝线与面料连接在一起，断线胶溶层在溶解后，通过向下拉扯控线条，使得控线条与面料分离，此时割断控线条和面料之间的贯穿边缘缝线，即可实现面料的剥离，或者可以直接沿着定位预切线切割，紧紧保留面料位于贯穿边缘缝线内侧的部分，有效去除面料边缘受到热敏膜收缩力被贯穿边缘缝线拉扯的部分，从而保证面料整体表面空隙的均匀性，提高面料的质量。
附图说明
图1为本发明的主要的流程框图；
图2为本发明的垫棉预褶皱层的结构示意图；
图3为本发明的垫棉预褶皱层立体的结构示意图；
图4为本发明的实施例2中垫棉预褶皱层的结构示意图；
图5为本发明的实施例2中垫棉预褶皱层的正面的结构示意图；
图6为图5中B处的结构示意图；
图7为本发明的实施例3中垫棉预褶皱层的正面的结构示意图；
图8为图7中B处的结构示意图。
图中标号说明：
11上密集缝线、12贯穿边缘缝线、2控线条、3胶滴、4残线。
具体实施方式
下面将结合本发明实施例中的附图；对本发明实施例中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述；显然；所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明一部分实施例；而不是全部的实施例，基于本发明中的实施例；本领域普通技术人员在没有做出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施例；都属于本发明保护的范围。
在本发明的描述中，需要说明的是，术语“上”、“下”、“内”、“外”、“顶/底端”等指示的方位或位置关系为基于附图所示的方位或位置关系，仅是为了便于描述本发明和简化描述，而不是指示或暗示所指的装置或元件必须具有特定的方位、以特定的方位构造和操作，因此不能理解为对本发明的限制。此外，术语“第一”、“第二”仅用于描述目的，而不能理解为指示或暗示相对重要性。
在本发明的描述中，需要说明的是，除非另有明确的规定和限定，术语“安装”、“设置有”、“套设/接”、“连接”等，应做广义理解，例如“连接”，可以是固定连接，也可以是可拆卸连接，或一体地连接；可以是机械连接，也可以是电连接；可以是直接相连，也可以通过中间媒介间接相连，可以是两个元件内部的连通。对于本领域的普通技术人员而言，可以具体情况理解上述术语在本发明中的具体含义。
实施例1：
请参阅图1-3，一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺，包括以下步骤：
S1、根据设计图稿制作水溶绣花绗线版；
S2、根据所需制备的垫棉选择面料、海绵和热敏膜；
S3、将海绵夹于面料和热敏膜中间并在三者边缘手缝绗线固定，形成边缘带有定位预切线的垫棉预褶皱层；
S4、通过绣花机进行刺绣花绗线；
S5、通过压皱机高温压皱，使热敏膜收缩定型；
S6、将垫棉预褶皱层泡水从而溶解绣花底线；
S7、手工将面料、海绵和热敏膜剥离；
S8、面料脱水、吸风晾干，之后进行人工整形。
绣花绗线的底线为水溶线，使得在将面料、海绵和热敏膜剥离时，直接泡入水中，进行溶解，即可分离，有效降低工作人员剥离时的工作量，海绵厚度为2-3mm，热敏膜在受热收缩时，海绵过厚，容易导致面料受到热敏膜的影响较小，导致得到的面料上的褶皱不明显；热敏膜在收缩时，海绵会受到绣花绗线的拉力，海绵过薄，在受力时极易受力破裂，导致在分离时，海绵碎屑过多粘附在面料上，造成对面料清理工作量的增加。
面料选用耐热色牢度高，能够耐高温不褪色不变色，面料手感处理要适当不宜太软，否则会影响褶皱定型效果，同时面料全部选择定织定染，绣花机针应用进口圆头小针，避免针眼太大；热敏膜缩率准确，确保褶皱后的成品尺寸稳定；水溶线，保证易汰洗拆线干净无遗留物。
实施例2：
请参阅图4-6，S3中海绵和热敏膜之间还可以连接有多个均匀分布的上密集缝线11，使得海绵和热敏源成为一体，热敏膜、海绵和面料三者边缘连接有贯穿边缘缝线12，海绵和面料之间设置有断线 胶溶层，通过断线胶溶层连接面料和海绵而不是用线连接，一方面有效保证热敏膜在受热收缩时，面料不会受到线的拉力作用，进而有效保证面料上空隙均匀，质量更好，另一方面，在剥离时，有效避免海绵碎屑粘附在面料上，进而有效降低后续对面料清理的难度以及工作量，断线胶溶层包括多个设置在海绵和面料之间的胶滴3，相邻的胶滴3之间粘设有多个杂乱分布的残线4，使得以胶滴3为中点，当热敏膜受热收缩时，胶滴3受到热敏膜收缩的力时，能够通过残线4将力传递给面料，从而使得面料随热敏膜收缩而皱缩。
残线4采用纺织的线形边角料制成，有效提高废物利用率，且残线4长度为相邻胶滴3之间距离的1-1.5倍，胶滴3为水溶性胶水滴在面料上形成，有效降低断线胶溶层的制备难度，从而有效提高面料皱缩处理的工作效率，上密集缝线11为非水溶性线制成，贯穿边缘缝线12为水溶性线制成，在剥离时，将垫棉预褶皱层放入水中溶解，此时断线胶溶层和贯穿边缘缝线12在水中溶解，使得面料被分离出，此时海绵与热敏膜为一体，有效避免海绵粘附在面料上的情况发生。
本实施例与实施例1最大的区别是热敏膜、海绵和面料的连接方式，从而使得面料剥离方式不同，且使得可以有效避免剥离后海绵粘附在面料上的情况发生，有效降低了工作人员对剥离后面料清理的工作量，同时本实施例还可以避免面料受到线的拉力作用，进而有效保证面料上空隙均匀，质量更好。
实施例3：
请参阅图7-8，上密集缝线11和贯穿边缘缝线12均为非水溶性线制成，面料边缘下端设有控线条2，控线条2通过贯穿边缘缝线12与面料连接在一起，断线胶溶层在溶解后，通过向下拉扯控线条2， 使得控线条2与面料分离，此时割断控线条2和面料之间的贯穿边缘缝线12，即可实现面料的剥离，或者可以直接沿着定位预切线切割，紧紧保留面料位于贯穿边缘缝线12内侧的部分，有效去除面料边缘受到热敏膜收缩力被贯穿边缘缝线12拉扯的部分，从而保证面料整体表面空隙的均匀性，提高面料的质量。
本实施例与实施例2最大的区别为贯穿边缘缝线12的材质，通过贯穿边缘缝线12材质的不同，使得本实施例与实施例2中面料剥离的方式存在差异，其他部分保持与实施例2一致。
可以实现将可溶于水的特殊线做绣花线，用电脑绣花的方式把衣片固定在遇热即缩皱的热敏膜上一起加热缩皱，然后汰洗去线、整烫定型，一方面有效降低了对于皱缩处理后面料剥离的难度，有效提高面料皱缩处理效率，另一方面有效保护面料不易受到线拉扯损坏；此外，通过断线胶溶层的设置，可以改变连接海绵和面料的方式，一方面有效保证热敏膜在受热收缩时，面料不会受到线的拉力作用，进而有效保证面料上空隙均匀，质量更好，另一方面，在剥离时，有效避免海绵碎屑粘附在面料上，进而有效降低后续对面料清理的难度以及工作量。
以上所述；仅为本发明较佳的具体实施方式；但本发明的保护范围并不局限于此；任何熟悉本技术领域的技术人员在本发明揭露的技术范围内；根据本发明的技术方案及其改进构思加以等同替换或改变；都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围内。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺，其特征在于：包括以下步骤：
    S1、根据设计图稿制作水溶绣花绗线版；
    S2、根据所需制备的垫棉选择面料、海绵和热敏膜；
    S3、将海绵夹于面料和热敏膜中间并在三者边缘手缝绗线固定，形成边缘带有定位预切线的垫棉预褶皱层；
    S4、通过绣花机进行刺绣花绗线；
    S5、通过压皱机高温压皱，使热敏膜收缩定型；
    S6、将垫棉预褶皱层泡水从而溶解绣花底线；
    S7、手工将面料、海绵和热敏膜剥离；
    S8、面料脱水、吸风晾干，之后进行人工整形。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺，其特征在于：所述绣花绗线的底线为水溶线。
  3. 根据权利要求2所述的一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺，其特征在于：所述海绵厚度为2-3mm。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺，其特征在于：所述S3中海绵和热敏膜之间还可以连接有多个均匀分布的上密集缝线(11)，所述热敏膜、海绵和面料三者边缘连接有贯穿边缘缝线(12)，所述海绵和面料之间设置有断线胶溶层。
  5. 根据权利要求4所述的一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺，其特征在于：所述断线胶溶层包括多个设置在海绵和面料之间的胶滴(3)，相邻的所述胶滴(3)之间粘设有多个杂乱分布的残线(4)。
  6. 根据权利要求5所述的一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺，其特征在于：所述残线(4)采用纺织的线形边角料制成，且残 线(4)长度为相邻胶滴(3)之间距离的1-1.5倍。
  7. 根据权利要求6所述的一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺，其特征在于：所述胶滴(3)为水溶性胶水滴在面料上形成。
  8. 根据权利要求4所述的一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺，其特征在于：所述上密集缝线(11)为非水溶性线制成，所述贯穿边缘缝线(12)为水溶性线制成。
  9. 根据权利要求4所述的一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺，其特征在于：所述上密集缝线(11)和贯穿边缘缝线(12)均为非水溶性线制成。
  10. 根据权利要求9所述的一种基于艺术染整的垫绵褶皱制备工艺，其特征在于：所述面料边缘下端设有控线条(2)，所述控线条(2)通过贯穿边缘缝线(12)与面料连接在一起。
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CN110438625A (zh) * 2019-08-19 2019-11-12 江苏工程职业技术学院 一种凉感起摺时尚面料的生产方法

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