WO2021068401A1 - 一种双剂型精华及其制备方法 - Google Patents

一种双剂型精华及其制备方法 Download PDF

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WO2021068401A1
WO2021068401A1 PCT/CN2019/124636 CN2019124636W WO2021068401A1 WO 2021068401 A1 WO2021068401 A1 WO 2021068401A1 CN 2019124636 W CN2019124636 W CN 2019124636W WO 2021068401 A1 WO2021068401 A1 WO 2021068401A1
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Prior art keywords
parts
water
oil
extract
butanediol
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PCT/CN2019/124636
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English (en)
French (fr)
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威廉洛克
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广州市百好博有限公司
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Application filed by 广州市百好博有限公司 filed Critical 广州市百好博有限公司
Priority to KR1020227009408A priority Critical patent/KR20220054620A/ko
Priority to US17/414,595 priority patent/US20220087924A1/en
Priority to EP19948228.2A priority patent/EP3881819A4/en
Priority to JP2022520858A priority patent/JP7450979B2/ja
Priority to AU2019469817A priority patent/AU2019469817B2/en
Publication of WO2021068401A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021068401A1/zh

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042Gels
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706Algae
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706Algae
    • A61K8/9722Chlorophycota or Chlorophyta [green algae], e.g. Chlorella
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4913Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4946Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706Algae
    • A61K8/9711Phaeophycota or Phaeophyta [brown algae], e.g. Fucus
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9728Fungi, e.g. yeasts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007Preparations for dry skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/85Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the technical field of skin care products, in particular to a two-agent essence and a preparation method thereof.
  • the main combination of two-component essences on the market is the combination of emulsion and transparent gel, and the combination of emulsion and semi-permeable gel.
  • a combination can provide a certain degree of moisture to the skin, so that the skin is not too refreshed.
  • the active substances in the two-dose form can be separated, so that mixing before use does not affect its stability.
  • one of the objectives of the present invention is to provide a two-dose essence, which is composed of oil gel and hydrogel mixed in a preset ratio during use. Both oil gel and hydrogel are Transparent appearance and good stability.
  • the second object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing a two-component essence.
  • the oil gel and the hydrogel are prepared separately, and the oil gel is prepared by the D-phase emulsification method.
  • the amount of emulsifier is low, and the oil phase with high oil content can be emulsified. .
  • a two-component essence comprising an oil gel and a hydrogel, the oil gel and the hydrogel are mixed according to a preset ratio when in use;
  • the oil gel includes the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-6 parts of active ingredients; 15-35 parts of polyols; 0.1-1 parts of subtilisin sodium; 10-70 parts of grease; 1-10 parts of water.
  • the active ingredients include 0.1-0.5 parts of wedge-based kelp extract complex, 0.1-0.5 parts of algae extract complex, 2-5 parts of complex amino acids, and 0.1-1 parts of eye-circumnavigation mixture;
  • the polyol is One or any combination of glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, sorbitol, and polyglyceryl ether-26;
  • the oil is sweet almond oil, canola oil, C15-19 alkane, jojoba seed oil, sunflower seed Any combination of oil, soybean oil, squalane, octyldodecanol, mineral oil, dimethylsiloxane, and cyclomethicone.
  • the kelp extract complex is a combination of caprylic/capric triglyceride and kelp extract;
  • the algae extract complex is caprylic/capric triglyceride and algae extract
  • the composition of the compound; the compound amino acids are water, butanediol, lysine, histidine, arginine, aspartic acid, threonine, serine, glutamic acid, proline, glycine, alanine , Valine, isoleucine, leucine, tyrosine and phenylalanine
  • the eye circumference mixture is CAPSICUM FRUTESCENS fruit extract, grapefruit (CITRUS PARADISI) fruit extract Extract, RUSCUS ACULEATUS root extract, EQUISETUM ARVENSE extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) root extract/Ascorbic acid methylsilanol pectate, methylsilanol hydroxypreser
  • oil gel comprises the following components in parts by weight: 2-4 parts of active ingredient; 20-30 parts of polyol; 0.1-1 part of subtilisin sodium; 40-65 parts of oil; water 1 -10 parts; pigment 0.001-1 parts.
  • oil gel is prepared by a phase D emulsification method.
  • the hydrogel includes the following components in parts by weight: 70-90 parts of solvent, 1-15 parts of active component, 0.1-2 parts of thickener, 3-20 parts of humectant, neutralizer 0-1 part, preservative 0.1-1 part, flavor 0.001-0.3 part, solubilizer 0.01-1 part, pH value regulator 0-1 part, chelating agent 0-0.5 part; wherein, the active component is anti- Sensitive actives, whitening actives, anti-glycation actives or anti-light actives.
  • the hydrogel includes the following components in parts by weight: 70-90 parts of water, 3-8 parts of butanediol, 3-10 parts of refined satin peptide complex, and phytosterol complex 1- 5 parts, glycerol polyether-26 1-5 parts, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6 0.1-1 parts, xanthan gum 0.1-0.5 parts, anti-corrosion compound 0.1-1 parts, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.01 -0.2 part, flavor 0.01-0.2 part; wherein, the refined sepin complex is water, polysorbate-20, carbomer, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl
  • the phytosterol compound is a composition of water, propylene glycol and phytosterol;
  • the antiseptic compound is phenoxyethanol and paraben A combination of esters, ethyl paraben and e
  • the hydrogel includes the following components in parts by weight: glycerol polyether-26 1-5 parts, butanediol 1-8 parts, water 80-90 parts, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6 0.1-1 part, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer 0.05-0.5 part, triethanolamine 0.05-0.5 part, madecassoside 0.1-0.5 part, water/glycerin/citrus 0.5-2 parts of fruit extract, 3-8 parts of white fungus extract/dipropylene glycol/disodium EDTA/water, 0.5-2 parts of water/butanediol/phenoxyethanol/spring elm root extract, phenoxyethanol /Methyl paraben/ethyl paraben/ethylhexylglycerol 0.3-1 part, flavor 0.001-0.01 part, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.01-0.1 part;
  • the hydrogel includes the following components in parts by weight: 80-90 parts of water, 2-5 parts of glycerol polyether-26, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6 0.1-0.5 parts, acrylic ( Esters)/C10-30 Alkanol Acrylate Cross-linked Polymer 0.1-0.5 parts, Niacinamide 1-5 parts, Triethanolamine 0.1-0.5 parts, Sodium Hyaluronate 0.01-0.1 parts, Water/Butylene Glycol/Tiannu 0.5-2 parts of magnolia extract, 0.5-2 parts of undecylenoyl phenylalanine, 0.1-1 parts of triethanolamine, 2-5 parts of butanediol, phenoxyethanol/methyl paraben/ethyl paraben /Ethylhexylglycerol 0.3-1 part, flavor 0.01-0.1 part, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.1-0.3 part;
  • the hydrogel includes the following components in parts by weight: 85-95 parts of water, 0.1-0.3 parts of xanthan gum, 2-5 parts of glycerol polyether-26, 0.1-0.3 parts of carbomer, Decarboxylized carnosine HCl/butanediol/sodium paraben/water 0.5-2 parts, carnosine 0.5-2 parts, citric acid 0.3-1 parts, fenugreek seed extract 0.3-1 parts, phenoxyethanol/hydroxybenzene 0.3-1 parts of methyl ester/ethyl paraben/ethylhexyl glycerol, 2-5 parts of butanediol, 0.1-0.3 parts of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, 0.01-0.1 parts of flavor;
  • the hydrogel includes the following components in parts by weight: 75-80 parts of water, 0.1-0.3 parts of carbomer, 0.01-0.2 parts of xanthan gum, water/polysorbate-20/glycerin /1,2-hexanediol/carbomer/palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 1-5 parts, glucosylrutin 0.1-1 part, triethanolamine 0.1-0.3 part, EDTA-2NA 0.01-0.2 part, water /Propylene Glycol/Dense Mongolia Flower Extract 0.1-1 part, Tremella Extract/Dipropylene Glycol/EDTA Disodium/Water 3-5 Parts, Phenoxyethanol/Methyl Paraben/Ethyl Paraben/Ethylhexyl Glycerin 0.3-1 parts, 5-10 parts of propylene glycol, 3-8 parts of butanediol, 0.01-0.2 parts of flavor, 0.1-0.5 parts of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
  • a method for preparing a two-dose essence including an oil gel preparation step and a hydrogel preparation step;
  • the preparation steps of the oil gel are as follows:
  • preparation steps of the oil gel are as follows:
  • the hydrogel includes the following components in parts by weight: 70-90 parts of water, 3-8 parts of butanediol, 3-10 parts of refined satin peptide complex, and phytosterol complex 1- 5 parts, glycerol polyether-26 1-5 parts, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6 0.1-1 parts, xanthan gum 0.1-0.5 parts, preservative compound 0.1-1 parts, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.01-0.2 parts, flavors 0.01-0.2 parts; the preparation method is as follows:
  • the hydrogel includes the following components in parts by weight: glycerol polyether-26 1-5 parts, butanediol 1-8 parts, water 80-90 parts, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6 0.1-1 part, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer 0.05-0.5 part, triethanolamine 0.05-0.5 part, madecassoside 0.1-0.5 part, water/glycerin/citrus 0.5-2 parts of fruit extract, 3-8 parts of white fungus extract/dipropylene glycol/disodium EDTA/water, 0.5-2 parts of water/butanediol/phenoxyethanol/spring elm root extract, phenoxyethanol /Methyl paraben/ethyl paraben/ethylhexylglycerol 0.3-1 part, flavor 0.001-0.01 part, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.01-0.1 part;
  • the preparation method is as follows:
  • the hydrogel includes the following components in parts by weight: 80-90 parts of water, 2-5 parts of glycerol polyether-26, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6 0.1-0.5 parts, acrylic ( Esters)/C10-30 Alkanol Acrylate Cross-linked Polymer 0.1-0.5 parts, Niacinamide 1-5 parts, Triethanolamine 0.1-0.5 parts, Sodium Hyaluronate 0.01-0.1 parts, Water/Butylene Glycol/Tiannu 0.5-2 parts of magnolia extract, 0.5-2 parts of undecylenoyl phenylalanine, 0.1-1 parts of triethanolamine, 2-5 parts of butanediol, phenoxyethanol/methyl paraben/ethyl paraben /Ethylhexylglycerol 0.3-1 part, flavor 0.01-0.1 part, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.1-0.3 part;
  • the preparation method is as follows:
  • the hydrogel includes the following components in parts by weight: 85-95 parts of water, 0.1-0.3 parts of xanthan gum, 2-5 parts of glycerol polyether-26, 0.1-0.3 parts of carbomer, Decarboxylized carnosine HCl/butanediol/sodium paraben/water 0.5-2 parts, carnosine 0.5-2 parts, citric acid 0.3-1 parts, fenugreek seed extract 0.3-1 parts, phenoxyethanol/hydroxybenzene 0.3-1 parts of methyl ester/ethyl paraben/ethylhexyl glycerol, 2-5 parts of butanediol, 0.1-0.3 parts of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, 0.01-0.1 parts of flavor;
  • the preparation method is as follows:
  • the formula amount of water is divided into two parts; the first part of the water and the formula amount of xanthan gum, glycerol polyether-26 and carbomer are heated and stirred evenly, cooled to 45 degrees to obtain the first mixture; the fenugreek seeds are extracted Mix the substance and the second part of water and heat it to 80°C, dissolve it and filter it with a filter cloth; take the filtrate, and the formula amount of decarboxycarnosine HCl/butanediol/paraben sodium/water, carnosine, and citric acid into the first In the mixed liquid, stir evenly to obtain the second mixed liquid, phenoxyethanol/methylparaben/ethylparaben/ethylhexylglycerol, mix well with butanediol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and flavor, mix well, add In the second mixture, stir evenly to obtain;
  • the hydrogel includes the following components in parts by weight: 75-80 parts of water, 0.1-0.3 parts of carbomer, 0.01-0.2 parts of xanthan gum, water/polysorbate-20/glycerin /1,2-hexanediol/carbomer/palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 1-5 parts, glucosylrutin 0.1-1 part, triethanolamine 0.1-0.3 part, EDTA-2NA 0.01-0.2 part, water /Propylene Glycol/Dense Mongolia Flower Extract 0.1-1 part, Tremella Extract/Dipropylene Glycol/EDTA Disodium/Water 3-5 Parts, Phenoxyethanol/Methyl Paraben/Ethyl Paraben/Ethylhexyl Glycerin 0.3-1 parts, 5-10 parts of propylene glycol, 3-8 parts of butanediol, 0.01-0.2 parts of flavor, 0.1-0.5 parts of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
  • the preparation method is as follows:
  • the present invention has the following beneficial effects:
  • the two-part essence provided by the present invention is composed of two transparent essences, oil gel and hydrogel.
  • the oil gel and hydrogel have excellent stability.
  • the glue is mixed in a certain proportion and subjected to secondary emulsification to obtain various milky white emulsions with different skin feels.
  • the oil gel uses subtilis lipopeptide sodium as the emulsifier, which comes from natural sources and is fermented by Bacillus subtilis. It is mild to the skin, has anti-inflammatory effects, can improve skin permeability, and has extremely high emulsification ability. ,
  • the dosage as low as 0.1% can emulsify 15% or even higher grease.
  • the preparation method of the two-component essence provided by the present invention adopts the D-phase emulsification method to prepare the oil gel.
  • the D-phase emulsification method has the following advantages:
  • emulsifier The amount of emulsifier is very low. In this system, only 0.1-0.5% of emulsifier is needed, which greatly reduces the amount of emulsifier and reduces the risk of formula irritation;
  • the paste has a unique appearance, which can make a very clear and transparent gel, as well as a bright, delicate and translucent paste, and the emulsified particle size of the paste is small, and the material diameter distribution is very uniform.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of the structure of subtilis lipopeptide sodium
  • Figure 2 is a diagram showing the oil gel and hydrogel respectively taken out
  • Figure 3 is a diagram showing the oil gel and hydrogel just mixed
  • Figure 4 is another display diagram of the oil gel and hydrogel just mixed
  • Figure 5 is a diagram showing the complete mixing of oil gel and hydrogel
  • Figure 6 is a schematic diagram of the oil gel of Example 1 of the present invention.
  • Figure 7 is a schematic diagram of the oil gel of Example 2 of the present invention.
  • Figure 8 is a schematic diagram of the oil gel of Example 3 of the present invention.
  • Figure 9 is a schematic diagram of the oil gel of Comparative Example 1.
  • Figure 10 is a schematic diagram of Comparative Example 2 oil gel
  • Figure 11 is a schematic diagram of Comparative Example 3 oil gel
  • Figure 12 is a schematic diagram of Comparative Example 4 oil gel
  • Figure 13 is a schematic diagram of Comparative Example 5 oil gel
  • Figure 14 is a schematic diagram of Comparative Example 6 oil gel
  • Figure 15 is a diagram of the moisturizing effect of the hydrogel when used alone.
  • Figure 16 is a diagram showing the moisturizing effect when the hydrogel and oil gel are mixed in a 4:1 ratio
  • Figure 17 is a diagram showing the moisturizing effect when hydrogel and oil gel are mixed and used in a ratio of 1:1;
  • Figure 18 is a diagram showing the moisturizing effect of samples A, B and C before use and after 1 hour of use;
  • Figure 19 is a diagram showing the moisturizing effect of samples A, B and C before use and after use for 1 hour;
  • Figure 20 is a graph showing the moisturizing effect of samples A, B and C after using for 1 hour and after using for 2 hours.
  • a two-component essence including oil gel and hydrogel.
  • the oil gel and hydrogel are mixed according to a preset ratio when in use; the oil gel includes the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-6 parts of active ingredient ; 15-35 parts of polyol; 0.1-1 part of subtilisin sodium; 10-70 parts of oil; 1-10 parts of water.
  • Sodium subtilis lipopeptide is selected as the emulsifier. It comes from nature and is fermented by Bacillus subtilis. As shown in Figure 1, it is a cyclic polypeptide composed of seven amino acids. This green and natural polypeptide emulsifier It is mild to the skin and has an anti-inflammatory effect. It can improve skin permeability and has a very high emulsification ability. The amount of as low as 0.1% can emulsify 15% or even higher oil.
  • Water is mainly used to adjust the refractive index of the oil and water phase of the formula.
  • the active ingredients include 0.1-0.5 parts of the wedge-based kelp extract complex, 0.1-0.5 parts of the algae extract complex, 2-5 parts of the compound amino acid, and 0.1-1 part of the eye surrounding mixture.
  • the kelp extract complex is a combination of caprylic/capric triglyceride and kelp extract
  • the algae extract complex is a combination of caprylic/capric triglyceride and algae extract
  • compound amino acids It is water, butanediol, lysine, histidine, arginine, aspartic acid, threonine, serine, glutamic acid, proline, glycine, alanine, valine, isoleucine
  • Wedge-based kelp extract is derived from the "golden seaweed" living in the harsh marine environment.
  • the eye-circumnavigation mixture is CAPSICUM FRUTESCENS fruit extract, CITRUS PARADISI fruit extract, RUSCUS ACULEATUS root extract, EQUISETUM ARVENSE extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra ( GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) root extract/ascorbic acid methylsilanol pectinate, methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartate, dimethylsilanol hyaluronate, aminoethyl phosphinic acid, A combination of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, methyl propylene glycol, ethanol, water, PEG-35 castor oil, phenoxyethanol and sodium benzoate.
  • the polyol is one or any combination of glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, sorbitol, and polyglycerol ether-26. More preferred is glycerin.
  • all the fats and oils are from natural sources, and the fats are sweet almond oil, canola oil, C15-19 alkanes, jojoba seed oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, squalane, and octyl. Any combination of dodecanol, mineral oil, dimethylsiloxane and cyclomethicone.
  • the proportion of the oil phase may be 10-70%, particularly preferably 40-65%.
  • the oil gel includes the following components in parts by weight: 2-4 parts of active ingredient; 20-30 parts of polyol; 0.1-1 part of subtilisin sodium; 40-65 parts of oil; water 1-10 parts; pigment 0.001-1 parts.
  • the oil gel is prepared by a phase D emulsification method.
  • the D-phase emulsification process is used to obtain the oil gel.
  • emulsifier With only 0.1-0.5% emulsifier, up to 50-70% of the fat can be emulsified, and a clear and transparent oil gel can be prepared. If necessary, it can also be prepared Obtain an anhydrous formula, the particle size of the emulsion is 2-10 microns.
  • the oil gel further includes 0.001-1 part of pigment.
  • the hydrogel includes the following components in parts by weight: 70-90 parts of water, 3-8 parts of butanediol, 3-10 parts of refined satin peptide complex, and phytosterol complex 1 -5 parts, glycerol polyether-26 1-5 parts, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6 0.1-1 parts, xanthan gum 0.1-0.5 parts, antiseptic compound 0.1-1 parts, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.01-0.2 parts, flavor 0.01-0.2 parts.
  • the naked collection peptide complex is water, polysorbate-20, carbomer, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8, glycerol and 1 , 2-hexanediol composition
  • phytosterol compound is a composition of water, propylene glycol and phytosterol
  • antiseptic compound is phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben and ethylhexyl glycerol combination.
  • the dual-agent essence provided by the present invention is composed of two transparent essences.
  • the oil gel formula is basically of natural origin and does not contain fragrance preservatives. Among them, the oil gel uses natural fermented lipopeptide sodium subtilis as the emulsifier, and the natural source of oil is the main body. It is prepared by the D-phase process; the hydrogel is a transparent water-soluble polymer made from a water-soluble polymer. gel. When using, the two transparent gels are mixed in a certain proportion and subjected to secondary emulsification to obtain milky white emulsions with different skin feels.
  • the two-dose essence provided by the present invention can derive a lot of skin care products, which can greatly streamline the cosmetic bag of Amy Lady during short business trips or travel, or occasionally use it in emergency.
  • a method for preparing a two-dose essence including an oil gel preparation step and a hydrogel preparation step;
  • the preparation steps of the oil gel are as follows:
  • the preparation steps of the hydrogel are as follows: mix the formulated amount of xanthan gum, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6 and water uniformly, heat to 80°C, keep it for 10-30 minutes, and then add the formula amount when the temperature is reduced to 45°C.
  • the extraordinar phytosterol complex, phytosterol complex and glycerol polyether-26 are refined to obtain the first mixture; then the formula amount of the preservative complex is uniformly dispersed with the formula amount of butanediol to obtain the second mixture;
  • the amount of flavor is uniformly dispersed with the formulated amount of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil to obtain the third mixture; finally, the second mixture and the third mixture are added to the first mixture in sequence, and the mixture is evenly mixed to obtain.
  • the preparation steps of the oil gel are as follows:
  • the preparation method of the two-part essence provided by the present invention is obviously different in the operation process: firstly, the emulsifier subtilisin sodium should be uniformly dispersed with polyol, and then the oil phase is slowly added dropwise to the polyol + emulsifier phase While stirring at medium speed, the consistency of the paste will increase significantly during the stirring process. Finally, if necessary, use a small amount of water to adjust the refractive index of the oil-water phase to obtain a clear and transparent gel.
  • the emulsifier subtilisin lipopeptide sodium should be uniformly dispersed with glycerin, and then the oil phase is slowly added dropwise to the glycerin + emulsifier phase while stirring at a medium speed. During the stirring process, the paste consistency will increase significantly. Finally, if necessary, use a small amount of water to adjust the refractive index of the oil-water phase to obtain a clear and transparent gel.
  • emulsifier The amount of emulsifier is very low. In this system, only 0.1-0.5% of emulsifier is needed, which greatly reduces the amount of emulsifier and reduces the risk of formula irritation;
  • the paste has a unique appearance, which can make a very clear and transparent gel, as well as a bright, delicate and translucent paste, and the emulsified particle size of the paste is small, and the material diameter distribution is very uniform.
  • a two-component essence including oil gel and hydrogel.
  • the oil gel and hydrogel are mixed according to a preset ratio during use; the oil gel is prepared from the following components: active ingredients, polyols, and subtilis Sodium lipopeptide, oil and water; the hydrogel is prepared from the following components: water, butanediol, refined selenin complex (water, polysorbate-20, carbomer, palmitoyl tetrapeptide- 7.
  • the specific formulations of the oil gel of Examples 1-3 are shown in Table 1, and the oil gel formulations of Examples 4-7 are the same as those of Example 1.
  • the specific formulations of the hydrogels of Example 1-3 are shown in Table 3, and Example 4- 7 See Table 4-7 for details of the hydrogel formulation, and the total amount of each component in the same embodiment is 100 parts).
  • the raw material connected by "/" means that the raw material is a composite raw material and is a whole.
  • a two-component essence including oil gel and hydrogel.
  • the oil gel and hydrogel are mixed according to a preset ratio during use. (See Table 1 for the specific formulation of the oil gel and Table 3 for the specific formulation of the hydrogel. The total amount of each component in the same comparative example is 100 parts).
  • Example 1 The hydrogels of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-6 were all prepared according to the formula in Table 3. The preparation process is as follows:
  • the hydrogel of Example 4 can play a very good anti-allergic effect, and the specific principle is as follows:
  • IMMORTAL WA II It is rich in active ingredients such as carotenoids, flavonoids and polysaccharides (iso-glucan, ⁇ -glucan and ⁇ -glucan), which can promote the expression of AQP-3 and hyaluronic acid synthase, It has the functions of moisturizing, anti-oxidation and promoting wound healing; in addition, the ⁇ -glucan contained in it also has the effect of improving skin immunity and anti-pollution.
  • active ingredients such as carotenoids, flavonoids and polysaccharides (iso-glucan, ⁇ -glucan and ⁇ -glucan), which can promote the expression of AQP-3 and hyaluronic acid synthase, It has the functions of moisturizing, anti-oxidation and promoting wound healing; in addition, the ⁇ -glucan contained in it also has the effect of improving skin immunity and anti-pollution.
  • PONCIRUS EXTRACT Extracted from the fruit of Fructus Aurantii, containing more than 5000ppm of Citrus glycosides, it has anti-allergic and anti-inflammatory effects. It has a better effect when combined with Portulaca oleracea, and can protect cells against UVB-induced cell death.
  • MADECASSOSIDE Extracted from wild Centella asiatica grown in Madagascar, it is rich in high-purity madecassoside, which can soothe the skin, rebuild extracellular matrix components, anti-inflammatory, regulate and protect the epidermis. In vivo experiments can relieve itching, anti-erythema and improve skin scaling, soothe sensitive skin, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis skin. Suitable for care products for atopic dermatitis, sensitive and mature skin.
  • the C2 phase is preheated and stirred to dissolve until it is transparent. Add phase C to A+B and stir and disperse evenly.
  • the hydrogel of Example 5 can play a very good role in whitening and removing spots, and the specific principle is as follows:
  • SEPIWHITE MSH It is an antagonist of the melanocyte-stimulating hormone ⁇ -MSH in the process of melanin synthesis. It acts on multiple stages of biochemical reaction caused by the formation of melanin caused by ⁇ -MSH, thereby comprehensively and effectively inhibiting the production of melanin, and the effect is more Obvious and lasting. It can be used in various formulas to make skin clear.
  • BIO-SODIUM HYALURONATE POWDER high-purity, high-quality sodium hyaluronate powder with a molecular weight of 1.3 to 1.8 megadaltons, which can form a viscoelastic, colorless, transparent and non-occlusive layer on the skin
  • the thin film has the effect of moisturizing and increasing skin elasticity.
  • MAGNOLIA EXTRACT Because of its elegant appearance, it was once known as the "Heavenly Flower” in South Korea. It can inhibit the auto-oxidation of dopa, scavenge free radicals, and can inhibit the pigmentation caused by inflammation or UV irradiation, and has a significant improvement effect on chloasma.
  • phase A stir and cool phase A to 45 degrees, add phases B, C, D (preservatives in phase D are pre-dispersed with butanediol, and solubilizers for flavors are pre-dispersed), and stir well.
  • the hydrogel of Example 6 is a light yellow transparent flowing gel.
  • the hydrogel of Example 6 can play a very good role in anti-glycation and anti-free radicals.
  • the specific principle is as follows:
  • ALISTIN It is a multi-effect anti-aging product, innovative in anti-aging and anti-oxidation. Oxidation accumulation can cause skin structure collapse, loss of elasticity, and wrinkles. Alitin not only removes free radicals, but also reduces peroxidized cell membranes, prevents the diffusion of oxidation reactions, and achieves oxidative repair, which neither VE nor VC can do. Glycation can cause protein cross-linking, wrinkles, dull and yellow skin. Alistin can not only prevent glycation, but also reverse protein glycation by competing with glycated protein. It is recommended for the treatment of aging skin or sunscreen and post-sun repair, detoxification and anti-aging products such as pigmentation. It is also a preferred raw material for improving efficacy in products such as whitening, anti-spot, and anti-hair loss.
  • SETILINE The small molecule galactomannan extracted from the outer skin of fenugreek seeds using biotechnology can prevent the glycation of collagen and integrin in the dermis, promote the differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes, and increase the thickness of the epidermis.
  • BPN-renovarin powder a powerful antioxidant and anti-protein glycation agent that can efficiently capture free radicals in the human body and inhibit the glycosylation and cross-linking reaction of skin proteins, slow down skin aging, and improve skin dullness.
  • the hydrogel of Example 7 can play a very good anti-blue light effect, and the specific principle is as follows:
  • BPN-CIRUELO significantly reduce the level of inflammatory factors interleukin, thereby eliminating potential inflammation of the skin, restoring skin health, and reducing the damage caused by inflammation to the skin
  • GLUCOSYL RUTIN Glucosyl rutin as a strong antioxidant, combined with the characteristics of ultraviolet absorption, can protect the epidermis and dermis from ultraviolet rays, so that the skin will no longer be troubled by such effects
  • SOLIBERINE NAT Derived from the plateau plant Dendrogram, it can resist the strong sunlight radiation in the plateau area, and at the same time resist the damage of blue, infrared and ultraviolet light to the skin. It inhibits and repairs the occurrence of damage at various key points of light damage.
  • Test purpose to test the moisturizing properties of the hydrogel alone used in the two-component essence of Example 1 of the present invention, and the moisturizing properties of compounding oil gels in different proportions, to verify that the oil gels can improve the moisturizing properties of the hydrogels.
  • Test method 20 volunteers between the ages of 26-45 applied 0.04 ⁇ L of samples A, B, and C on the inside of the arm in a single application, and used CK (Derma-Expert MC760) before application, 1h and 2h, respectively. Perform skin moisture content measurement.
  • 1h VS is blank; 2h VS 1h; 2h VS is blank.
  • Samples A, B and C have instant and long-lasting moisturizing effects
  • Sample C has the best instant and long-lasting moisturizing effect
  • Oil gel can effectively improve the moisture retention of hydrogel

Abstract

一种双剂型精华,包括油凝胶和水凝胶,油凝胶和水凝胶在使用时按照预设比例混合;油凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:活性成分0.1-6份;多元醇15-35份;枯草菌脂肤钠0.1-1份;油脂10-70份;水1-10份。该双剂型精华在使用时再按预设比例混合,油凝胶和水凝胶外观透明、稳定性佳。还公开了一种双剂型精华的制备方法,油凝胶和水凝胶分别制备,采用D相乳化法制备油凝胶,乳化剂用量低,可以乳化高油脂含量的油相。

Description

一种双剂型精华及其制备方法 技术领域
本发明涉及护肤品技术领域,尤其涉及一种双剂型精华及其制备方法。
背景技术
目前,市场上现在有很多不同类型的两剂型精华,包括水和粉剂组合、白色乳液和透明啫喱组合、半透凝胶和透明啫喱组合等。例如,市场上的娇韵诗双萃赋活植萃精华是油水两剂型,大管套小管的包装,最后经一个泵头挤出;娇兰帝皇姿双效修护精华露是有颗粒的半透啫喱和乳液组合,半透啫喱和乳液分别用2个管装,经1个泵头挤出;倩碧匀净卓研淡斑双效精华露是乳液和啫喱的组合,乳液和啫喱分别用2个管装,使用时2个泵头分别挤出,然后在手上混匀;倩碧黄油加芯就是白色乳液和透明啫喱的组合,乳液和透明啫喱采用大管套小管的形式盛装,一个泵头挤出。
也就是说,目前市场上双剂型精华的主要的组合方式为乳液和透明啫喱组合、乳液和半透啫喱组合,这样的组合方式可以为肌肤提供一定的滋润度,使肌肤不至于太过清爽,而且双剂型中的活性物可以分开,使不至于在使用前混合影响其稳定性。
但是,市场上现有产品,基本是两剂型精华的简单混合,虽然在包装上各有新意,有两管分开装,分开出料;也有管内混合;但基本料体的混合没有大的差别,基本是一款透明水性凝胶配合一款半透至乳白的水包油精华。对于油凝胶,要做成透明、稳定、肤感良好的油凝胶是具有一定难度的,对于乳化剂的选择、油脂的选择搭配,以及多元醇的选择都有一定的要求。
发明内容
为了克服现有技术的不足,本发明的目的之一在于在于提供一种双剂型精华,由使用时再按预设比例混合的油凝胶和水凝胶组成,油凝胶和水凝胶均外观透明、稳定性佳。
本发明的目的之二在于提供一种双剂型精华的制备方法,油凝胶和水凝胶分别制备,采用D相乳化法制备油凝胶,乳化剂用量低,可以乳化高油脂含量的油相。
本发明的目的之一采用如下技术方案实现:
一种双剂型精华,包括油凝胶和水凝胶,所述油凝胶和所述水凝胶在使用时按照预设比例混合;所述油凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:活性成分0.1-6份;多元醇15-35份;枯草菌脂肽钠0.1-1份;油脂10-70份;水1-10份。
进一步地,所述活性成分包括楔基海带提取物复合物0.1-0.5份,藻提取物复合物0.1-0.5份,复合氨基酸2-5份,眼围合剂0.1-1份;所述多元醇为甘油、丙二醇、丁二醇、山梨醇、聚甘油醚-26中的一种或任意组合;所述油脂为甜扁桃油、低芥酸菜子油、C15-19烷、霍霍巴籽油、葵花籽油、大豆油、角鲨烷、辛基十二烷醇、矿油、二甲基硅氧烷和环甲基硅氧烷中的任意组合。
1.进一步地,所述楔基海带提取物复合物为辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯和楔基海带提取物的组合物;所述藻提取物复合物为辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯和藻提取物的组合物;复合氨基酸为水、丁二醇、赖氨酸、组氨酸、精氨酸、天冬氨酸、苏氨酸、丝氨酸、谷氨酸、脯氨酸、甘氨酸、丙氨酸、缬氨酸、异亮氨酸、亮氨酸、酪氨酸和苯丙氨酸的组合物,所述的眼围合剂为小米椒(CAPSICUM FRUTESCENS)果提取物、葡萄柚(CITRUS PARADISI)果提取物、假叶树(RUSCUS ACULEATUS)根提取物、问荆(EQUISETUM ARVENSE)提取物、光果甘草(GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA)根提取物/抗坏血酸甲基硅烷醇果胶酸酯、甲基硅烷醇羟脯氨酸酯天冬氨酸酯、二甲基甲硅烷醇透明质酸酯、氨乙基次膦酸、丙二醇、丁二醇、甲基丙二醇、乙醇、水、PEG-35蓖麻油、苯氧乙醇和苯甲酸钠的组合。
进一步地,所述油凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:活性成分2-4份;多元醇20-30份;枯草菌脂肽钠0.1-1份;油脂40-65份;水1-10份;色素0.001-1份。
进一步地,所述油凝胶通过D相乳化法制备而成。
进一步地,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:溶剂70-90份、活性组分1-15份、增稠剂0.1-2份、保湿剂3-20份、中和剂0-1份、防腐剂0.1-1份、香精0.001-0.3份、增溶剂0.01-1份、pH值调节剂0-1份、螯合剂0-0.5份;其中,所述活性组分为抗敏活性物、美白活性物、抗糖化活性物或抗光活性物。
进一步地,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:水70-90份,丁二醇3-8份,精致集妍肽复合物3-10份,植物甾醇类复合物1-5份,甘油聚醚-26 1-5份,聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6 0.1-1份,黄原胶0.1-0.5份,防腐复合物0.1-1份,PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.01-0.2份,香精0.01-0.2份;其中,所述精致集妍肽复合物为水、聚山梨醇酯-20、卡波姆、棕榈酰四肽-7、棕榈酰五肽-4、乙酰基六肽-8、甘油和1,2-己二醇的组合物;所述植物甾醇类复合物为水、丙二醇和植物甾醇类的组合物;所述防腐复合物为苯氧乙醇、羟苯甲酯、羟苯乙酯和乙基己基甘油的组合物;
或者,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:甘油聚醚-26 1-5份、丁二醇1-8份、水80-90份、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6 0.1-1份、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.05-0.5份、三乙醇胺0.05-0.5份、羟基积雪草苷0.1-0.5份、水/甘油/枸桔果提取物0.5-2份、银耳提取物/双丙甘醇/EDTA二钠/水3-8份、水/丁二醇/苯氧乙醇/春榆根提取物0.5-2份、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油0.3-1份、香精0.001-0.01份、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.01-0.1份;
又或者,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:水80-90份、甘油聚醚-26 2-5份、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6 0.1-0.5份、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1-0.5份、烟酰胺1-5份、三乙醇胺0.1-0.5份、透明质酸钠0.01-0.1份、水/丁二醇/天女木兰提取物0.5-2份、十一碳烯酰基苯丙氨酸0.5-2份、三乙醇胺0.1-1份、丁二醇2-5份、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油0.3-1份、香精0.01-0.1份、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.1-0.3份;
又或者,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:水85-95份、黄原胶0.1-0.3份、甘油聚醚-26 2-5份、卡波姆0.1-0.3份、脱羧肌肽HCl/丁二醇/羟苯甲酯钠/水0.5-2份、肌肽0.5-2份、柠檬酸0.3-1份、胡芦巴籽提取物0.3-1份、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油0.3-1份、丁二醇2-5份、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.1-0.3份、香精0.01-0.1份;
再或者,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:水75-80份、卡波姆0.1-0.3份、黄原胶0.01-0.2份、水/聚山梨醇酯-20/甘油/1,2-己二醇/卡波姆/棕榈酰四肽-7 1-5份、葡糖基芦丁0.1-1份、三乙醇胺0.1-0.3份、EDTA-2NA 0.01-0.2份、水/丙二醇/密蒙花提取物0.1-1份、银耳提取物/双丙甘醇/EDTA二钠/水3-5份、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油0.3-1份、丙二醇5-10份、丁二醇3-8份、香精0.01-0.2份、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.1-0.5份。
本发明的目的之二采用如下技术方案实现:
一种双剂型精华的制备方法,包括油凝胶制备步骤和水凝胶制备步骤;
所述油凝胶制备步骤如下:
4)将配方量的枯草菌脂肽钠分散在配方量的多元醇中,搅拌均匀,得到醇相;
5)将配方量的油脂混合均匀,得到油相;
6)将所述油相滴加入所述醇相中,搅拌均匀得到半成品;
4)将配方量的水和配方量的活性成分加入所述半成品中,搅拌均匀,即得。
进一步地,所述油凝胶的制备步骤如下:
1)将配方量的枯草菌脂肽钠分散在配方量的多元醇中,以低于600rpm/min的速度搅拌5-10min,搅拌均匀,得到醇相;
2)将配方量的油脂混合均匀,得到油相;
3)将所述油相滴加入所述醇相中,滴加速度为5-10g/min,设置搅拌速度为500-800rpm/min,得到半成品;
4)将配方量的水和配方量的活性成分加入所述半成品中,均质2-3min,搅 拌均匀,即得。
进一步地,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:水70-90份,丁二醇3-8份,精致集妍肽复合物3-10份,植物甾醇类复合物1-5份,甘油聚醚-26 1-5份,聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6 0.1-1份,黄原胶0.1-0.5份,防腐剂复合物0.1-1份,PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.01-0.2份,香精0.01-0.2份;制备方法如下:
将配方量的黄原胶、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6和水混合均匀,加热至80℃,保温10-30min,然后降温至45℃时加入配方量的精致集妍肽复合物、植物甾醇类复合物和甘油聚醚-26,得到第一混合物;接着将配方量的防腐剂复合物用配方量的丁二醇分散均匀,得到第二混合物;将配方量的香精用配方量的PEG-40氢化蓖麻油分散均匀,得到第三混合物;最后依次将所述第二混合物和所述第三混合物加入所述第一混合物中,混合均匀,即得;
或者,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:甘油聚醚-26 1-5份、丁二醇1-8份、水80-90份、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6 0.1-1份、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.05-0.5份、三乙醇胺0.05-0.5份、羟基积雪草苷0.1-0.5份、水/甘油/枸桔果提取物0.5-2份、银耳提取物/双丙甘醇/EDTA二钠/水3-8份、水/丁二醇/苯氧乙醇/春榆根提取物0.5-2份、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油0.3-1份、香精0.001-0.01份、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.01-0.1份;
制备方法如下:
将配方量的甘油聚醚-26、丁二醇、水、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物相加热搅拌,充分分散均匀;冷却后,依次加入配方量的三乙醇胺、羟基积雪草苷、水/甘油/枸桔果提取物、银耳提取物/双丙甘醇/EDTA二钠/水、水/丁二醇/苯氧乙醇/春榆根提取物、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油、香精和PEG-40氢化蓖麻油,充分搅拌均匀,即得;
又或者,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:水80-90份、甘油聚醚 -26 2-5份、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6 0.1-0.5份、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1-0.5份、烟酰胺1-5份、三乙醇胺0.1-0.5份、透明质酸钠0.01-0.1份、水/丁二醇/天女木兰提取物0.5-2份、十一碳烯酰基苯丙氨酸0.5-2份、三乙醇胺0.1-1份、丁二醇2-5份、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油0.3-1份、香精0.01-0.1份、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.1-0.3份;
制备方法如下:
将配方量的水分为两部分;将第一部分水以及配方量的甘油聚醚-26、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、烟酰胺加热溶胀均匀,然后加入配方量的三乙醇胺搅拌至澄清透明,得到第一混合物;接着将配方量的十一碳烯酰基苯丙氨酸、三乙醇胺以及第二部分水预先加热搅拌溶解至透明,加入配方量的透明质酸钠、水/丁二醇/天女木兰提取物,得到第二混合物,将第二混合物加入第一混合物中,搅拌分散均匀,得到第三混合物;预先将丁二醇和苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油混合均匀,将香精和PEG-40氢化蓖麻油混合均匀,最后将它们加入第三混合物中,搅拌均匀,即得;
又或者,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:水85-95份、黄原胶0.1-0.3份、甘油聚醚-26 2-5份、卡波姆0.1-0.3份、脱羧肌肽HCl/丁二醇/羟苯甲酯钠/水0.5-2份、肌肽0.5-2份、柠檬酸0.3-1份、胡芦巴籽提取物0.3-1份、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油0.3-1份、丁二醇2-5份、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.1-0.3份、香精0.01-0.1份;
制备方法如下:
将配方量的水分为两部分;将第一部分水以及配方量的黄原胶、甘油聚醚-26和卡波姆加热搅拌均匀,冷却至45度,得到第一混合物;将胡芦巴籽提取物和第二部分水混合加热至80度,溶解后再用滤布过滤;取滤液,以及配方量的脱羧肌肽HCl/丁二醇/羟苯甲酯钠/水、肌肽、柠檬酸加入第一混合液中,搅拌均匀,得第二混合液、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油用丁二醇混 合均匀、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油和香精混合均匀,加入第二混合物中,搅拌均匀,即得;
再或者,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:水75-80份、卡波姆0.1-0.3份、黄原胶0.01-0.2份、水/聚山梨醇酯-20/甘油/1,2-己二醇/卡波姆/棕榈酰四肽-7 1-5份、葡糖基芦丁0.1-1份、三乙醇胺0.1-0.3份、EDTA-2NA 0.01-0.2份、水/丙二醇/密蒙花提取物0.1-1份、银耳提取物/双丙甘醇/EDTA二钠/水3-5份、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油0.3-1份、丙二醇5-10份、丁二醇3-8份、香精0.01-0.2份、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.1-0.5份。
制备方法如下:
将配方量的水、卡波姆、EDTA-2NA和黄原胶分散均匀后,然后加入三乙醇胺搅拌均匀至澄清透明,得第一混合液;依次加入配方量的水/聚山梨醇酯-20/甘油/1,2-己二醇/卡波姆/棕榈酰四肽-7、葡糖基芦丁、水/丙二醇/密蒙花提取物、银耳提取物/双丙甘醇/EDTA二钠/水搅拌均匀后得第二混合液;苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油与丙二醇、丁二醇混合均匀、香精和PEG-40氢化蓖麻油混合均匀后,加入第二混合液,搅拌均匀,即得。
相比现有技术,本发明的有益效果在于:
(1)本发明所提供的双剂型精华,由油凝胶和水凝胶这两种透明精华组合而成,油凝胶和水凝胶的稳定性极佳,在使用时将两款透明凝胶按一定比例混合,进行二次乳化,可以得到各种不同肤感的乳白色乳液。油凝胶选用枯草菌脂肽钠为乳化剂,其来源于天然,是由枯草芽孢杆菌发酵而来的,对皮肤温和,还具有抗炎作用,能够提高皮肤渗透性,具有极高的乳化能力,用量低至0.1%就可以乳化15%甚至更高的油脂。
(2)本发明所提供的双剂型精华的制备方法,采用D相乳化法制备油凝胶,跟传统水包油配方比较起来,D相乳化法的优势有如下几点:
a.可以冷配,整个生产过程中无需加热,可以减少碳排放,缩短生产时间,降低生产成本;
b.乳化剂用量非常低,在这个体系里,仅需要0.1-0.5%的乳化剂,大大减少了乳化剂的用量,也减少了配方刺激性的风险;
c.可以乳化高油脂含量的油相,在这个体系里,可以乳化40-70%的油脂,如果是普通水包油的乳化剂,在乳化剂用量这么低的条件下,完全不能够乳化;
d.膏体外观独特,可以制得非常澄清透明的凝胶,也可以制得白亮、细腻、透亮的膏体,而且膏体的乳化粒径小,料径分布非常均匀。
附图说明
图1为枯草菌脂肽钠的结构示意图;
图2为分别取出油凝胶和水凝胶的展示图;
图3为将油凝胶和水凝胶刚刚混合的展示图;
图4为将油凝胶和水凝胶刚刚混合的又一展示图;
图5为将油凝胶和水凝胶完全混合均匀的展示图;
图6为本发明实施例1油凝胶的示意图;
图7为本发明实施例2油凝胶的示意图;
图8为本发明实施例3油凝胶的示意图;
图9为对比例1油凝胶的示意图;
图10为对比例2油凝胶的示意图;
图11为对比例3油凝胶的示意图;
图12为对比例4油凝胶的示意图;
图13为对比例5油凝胶的示意图;
图14为对比例6油凝胶的示意图;
图15为水凝胶单独使用时的保湿效果图;
图16为水凝胶和油凝胶按照4:1比例混合使用时的保湿效果图;
图17为水凝胶和油凝胶按照1:1比例混合使用时的保湿效果图;
图18为A、B和C样品使用前和使用1h后的保湿效果图;
图19为A、B和C样品使用前和使用1h后的保湿效果图;
图20为A、B和C样品使用1h后和使用2h后的保湿效果图。
具体实施方式
下面,结合附图以及具体实施方式,对本发明做进一步描述,需要说明的是,在不相冲突的前提下,以下描述的各实施例之间或各技术特征之间可以任意组合形成新的实施例。
一种双剂型精华,包括油凝胶和水凝胶,油凝胶和水凝胶在使用时按照预设比例混合;油凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:活性成分0.1-6份;多元醇15-35份;枯草菌脂肽钠0.1-1份;油脂10-70份;水1-10份。
选用枯草菌脂肽钠作为乳化剂,它来源于天然,其由枯草芽孢杆菌发酵而来,如图1所示,它由七种氨基酸组成的环形多肽,这一款绿色天然的多肽类乳化剂,对皮肤温和,还具有抗炎作用,能够提高皮肤渗透性,具有极高的乳化能力,用量低至0.1%就可以乳化15%甚至更高的油脂。
水主要是用来调整配方油水相的折光率。
作为进一步的实施方式,活性成分包括楔基海带提取物复合物0.1-0.5份,藻提取物复合物0.1-0.5份,复合氨基酸2-5份,眼围合剂0.1-1份。其中,楔基海带提取物复合物为辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯和楔基海带提取物的组合物;藻提取物复合物为辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯和藻提取物的组合物;复合氨基酸为水、丁二醇、赖氨酸、组氨酸、精氨酸、天冬氨酸、苏氨酸、丝氨酸、谷氨酸、脯氨酸、甘氨酸、丙氨酸、缬氨酸、异亮氨酸、亮氨酸、酪氨酸和苯丙氨酸的组合物楔基海带提取物来源于生存于恶劣海洋环境中的“黄金海藻”,在内外盐度变化、海水浸入/非浸入变化和阳光照射强度变化等多种因素的影响下,楔基海带形成了独特的生存机制。其主要具有全面抗炎、抗老化和防晒等多种功效的活性成分。
另外,眼围合剂为小米椒(CAPSICUM FRUTESCENS)果提取物、葡萄柚(CITRUS PARADISI)果提取物、假叶树(RUSCUS ACULEATUS)根提取物、问荆(EQUISETUM ARVENSE)提取物、光果甘草(GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA)根提取物/抗坏血酸甲基硅烷醇果胶酸酯、甲基硅烷醇羟脯氨酸酯天冬氨酸酯、二甲基甲硅烷醇透明质酸酯、氨乙基次膦酸、丙二醇、丁二醇、甲基丙二醇、乙醇、水、PEG-35蓖麻油、苯氧乙醇和苯甲酸钠的组合物。
作为进一步的实施方式,多元醇为甘油、丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、山梨醇、聚甘油醚-26中的一种或任意组合。更优选的为甘油。
作为进一步的实施方式,油脂全部采用天然来源的油脂,油脂为甜甜扁桃油、低芥酸菜子油、C15-19烷、霍霍巴籽油、葵花籽油、大豆油、角鲨烷、辛基十二烷醇、矿油、二甲基硅氧烷和环甲基硅氧烷中的任意组合。油相的比例可以为10-70%,特别优选为40-65%。
作为进一步的实施方式,油凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:活性成分2-4份;多元醇20-30份;枯草菌脂肽钠0.1-1份;油脂40-65份;水1-10份;色素0.001-1份。
作为进一步的实施方式,油凝胶通过D相乳化法制备而成。采用D相乳化工艺来获取油凝胶,仅用0.1-0.5%用量的乳化剂,就可以乳化高达50-70%的油脂,并可制得澄清透明的油凝胶,如果需要,还可以制得无水配方,乳液粒径2-10微米。
作为进一步的实施方式,油凝胶还包括色素0.001-1份。
作为进一步的实施方式,水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:水70-90份,丁二醇3-8份,精致集妍肽复合物3-10份,植物甾醇类复合物1-5份,甘油聚醚-26 1-5份,聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6 0.1-1份,黄原胶0.1-0.5份,防腐 复合物0.1-1份,PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.01-0.2份,香精0.01-0.2份。
作为进一步的实施方式,精致集妍肽复合物为水、聚山梨醇酯-20、卡波姆、棕榈酰四肽-7、棕榈酰五肽-4、乙酰基六肽-8、甘油和1,2-己二醇的组合物;植物甾醇类复合物为水、丙二醇和植物甾醇类的组合物;防腐复合物为苯氧乙醇、羟苯甲酯、羟苯乙酯和乙基己基甘油的组合物。
本发明所提供的双剂型精华,是由两款透明精华组成,油凝胶配方基本天然来源,不含香精防腐剂。其中油凝胶以天然发酵而来的枯草菌脂肽纳为乳化剂,天然来源的油脂为主体,用D相法工艺制得,;水凝胶是由水溶性的聚合物制得的透明水性凝胶。使用时将两款透明凝胶按一定比例混合,进行二次乳化,可以得到各种不同肤感的乳白色乳液。
使用时的变化过程如图2-5所示。
即在使用时,可以分别泵取透明油凝胶与透明水性啫喱(水凝胶)于手心,在室温条件下,通过手指的混合,发生二次乳化,立即变成乳白色乳液,可以让客户在使用时有即时的魔术体验感。由于透明油凝胶的高油相含量,使得在客户使用过程中,可以通过两款透明啫喱不同用量的调整获取不同类型的产品。例如:将油性凝胶:水凝胶以1:1混合,可以得到一款按摩精华;当油性凝胶:水凝胶以1:2混合,可以得到保湿滋润精华乳;当油性凝胶:水凝胶以1:5混合,可以做为身体乳来使用;当油性凝胶:水凝胶以1:20混合,可以做为一款润肤水。因此,本发明所提供的两剂型精华,可以衍生出很多个护肤品,在短途出差或旅行中,可以极大地精简爱美女士的化妆包,或者偶而的应急使用。
一种双剂型精华的制备方法,包括油凝胶制备步骤和水凝胶制备步骤;
油凝胶制备步骤如下:
1)将配方量的枯草菌脂肽钠分散在配方量的多元醇中,搅拌均匀,得到醇相;
2)将配方量的油脂混合均匀,得到油相;
3)将油相滴加入醇相中,搅拌均匀得到半成品;
4)将配方量的水和配方量的活性成分加入半成品中,搅拌均匀,即得。
水凝胶的制备步骤如下:将配方量的黄原胶、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6和水混合均匀,加热至80℃,保温10-30min,然后降温至45℃时加入配方量的精致集妍肽复合物、植物甾醇类复合物和甘油聚醚-26,得到第一混合物;接着将配方量的防腐剂复合物用配方量的丁二醇分散均匀,得到第二混合物;将配方量的香精用配方量的PEG-40氢化蓖麻油分散均匀,得到第三混合物;最后依次将第二混合物和第三混合物加入第一混合物中,混合均匀,即得。
作为进一步的实施方式,油凝胶的制备步骤如下:
1)将配方量的枯草菌脂肽钠分散在配方量的多元醇中,以低于600rpm/min的速度搅拌5-10min,搅拌均匀,得到醇相;
2)将配方量的油脂混合均匀,得到油相;
3)将油相滴加入醇相中,形成凝胶前,确保油相慢慢加入,滴加速度为5-10g/min,设置搅拌速度为500-800rpm/min,搅拌使形成稠厚凝胶,得到半成品;
4)将配方量的水和配方量的活性成分加入半成品中,均质2-3min以提高粘度与稳定性,搅拌均匀,即得。水在于调整产品透明度。
本发明所提供的双剂型精华的制备方法,在操作工艺有明显不同:首先,乳化剂枯草菌脂肽钠要先用多元醇分散均匀,再把油相慢慢滴加入多元醇+乳化 剂相中,同时中速搅拌,在搅拌过程中,膏体稠度会有明显的增加,最后如果需要,用少量水来调整油水相的折光率,就可以得到澄清透明的凝胶。
D相乳化工艺跟传统的水包油配方工艺相比,在操作工艺有明显不同:
首先,乳化剂枯草菌脂肽钠要先用甘油分散均匀,再把油相慢慢滴加入甘油+乳化剂相中,同时中速搅拌,在搅拌过程中,膏体稠度会有明显的增加,最后如果需要,用少量水来调整油水相的折光率,就可以得到澄清透明的凝胶。
跟传统水包油配方比较起来,D相乳化法的优势有如下几点:
a.可以冷配,整个生产过程中无需加热,可以减少碳排放,缩短生产时间,降低生产成本;
b.乳化剂用量非常低,在这个体系里,仅需要0.1-0.5%的乳化剂,大大减少了乳化剂的用量,也减少了配方刺激性的风险;
c.可以乳化高油脂含量的油相,在这个体系里,可以乳化40-70%的油脂,如果是普通水包油的乳化剂,在乳化剂用量这么低的条件下,完全不能够乳化;
d.膏体外观独特,可以制得非常澄清透明的凝胶,也可以制得白亮、细腻、透亮的膏体,而且膏体的乳化粒径小,料径分布非常均匀。
以下是本发明具体的实施例,在下述实施例中所采用的原材料、设备等除特殊限定外均可以通过购买方式获得。
实施例1-7
一种双剂型精华,包括油凝胶和水凝胶,油凝胶和水凝胶在使用时按照预设比例混合;油凝胶由以下组分制备而成:活性成分、多元醇、枯草菌脂肽钠、油脂和水;水凝胶由以下组分制备而成:水、丁二醇、精致集妍肽复合物(水、聚山梨醇酯-20、卡波姆、棕榈酰四肽-7、棕榈酰五肽-4、乙酰基六肽-8、甘油和 1,2-己二醇的组合物)、植物甾醇类复合物(水、丙二醇和植物甾醇类的组合物)、甘油聚醚-26、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6、黄原胶、防腐剂复合物(苯氧乙醇、羟苯甲酯、羟苯乙酯和乙基己基甘油的组合物)、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、香精。(实施例1-3油凝胶具体配方详见表1,实施例4-7油凝胶配方与实施例1一致;实施例1-3水凝胶具体配方详见表3,实施例4-7水凝胶配方详见表4-7,同一个实施例中各组分的用量之和为100份)。
本申请中(如表1-7中),用“/”连接的原料表示该原料为复合原料,是一个整体。
对比例1-6
一种双剂型精华,包括油凝胶和水凝胶,油凝胶和水凝胶在使用时按照预设比例混合。(油凝胶具体配方详见表1,水凝胶具体配方详见表3,同一个对比例中各组分的用量之和为100份)。
表1实施例1-3和对比例1-6的油凝胶的配方表
Figure PCTCN2019124636-appb-000001
Figure PCTCN2019124636-appb-000002
Figure PCTCN2019124636-appb-000003
实施例1-3和对比例1-5的油凝胶的制备步骤如下:
1)将配方量的乳化剂分散在配方量的多元醇中,以低于600rpm/min的速度搅拌5-10min,搅拌均匀,得到醇相;
2)将配方量的油脂混合均匀,得到油相;
3)将油相滴加入醇相中,形成凝胶前,确保油相慢慢加入,滴加速度为5-10g/min,设置搅拌速度为500-800rpm/min,搅拌使形成稠厚凝胶,得到半成品;
4)将配方量的水和配方量的活性成分加入半成品中,均质2-3min,搅拌均匀,即得。
而对比例6的油凝胶改变了制备工艺,直接油水相均质获得。
如图6-14所示,分别为实施例1-3和对比例1-6的油凝胶的示意图,它们的配方和性状差别如表2所示。
表2实施例1-3和对比例1-6油凝胶的配方和性状对比表
Figure PCTCN2019124636-appb-000004
Figure PCTCN2019124636-appb-000005
实施例1和对比例1-6的水凝胶均按照表3的配方制备而成。制备流程如下:
将配方量的黄原胶、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6和水混合均匀,加热至80℃,保温10-30min,然后降温至45℃时加入配方量的精致集妍肽复合物、植物甾醇类复合物和甘油聚醚-26,得到第一混合物;接着将配方量的防腐剂复合物用配方量的丁二醇分散均匀,得到第二混合物;将配方量的香精用配方量的PEG-40氢化蓖麻油分散均匀,得到第三混合物;最后依次将第二混合物和第三混合物加入第一混合物中,混合均匀,即得。
表3实施例1-3和对比例1-6水凝胶的配方表
Figure PCTCN2019124636-appb-000006
Figure PCTCN2019124636-appb-000007
表4实施例4水凝胶的配方表
Figure PCTCN2019124636-appb-000008
实施例4水凝胶的制备过程如下:
1.A相加热搅拌充分分散均匀;
2.冷却后,依次加入B、C相,充分搅拌均匀,完成。
实施例4的水凝胶为浅黄色透明流动啫喱,pH=7.29,粘度=5416cps(5#,5rpm),耐热(48℃一个月)稳定,耐寒:(-15℃一个月)稳定。
实施例4的水凝胶能起到很好的抗过敏作用,具体原理如下:
主要活性成分:
IMMORTAL WA Ⅱ:富含类胡萝卜素、黄酮类化合物及多糖(异-葡聚糖、β-葡聚糖和α-葡萄糖)等活性成分,能促进AQP-3和透明质酸合成酶的表达,具有保湿、抗氧化和促进伤口愈合等功效;此外,其中含有的β-葡聚糖还具有提高皮肤免疫力和抗污染的功效。
PONCIRUS EXTRACT:提取自枳实果部,含有枸橘苷5000ppm以上,具有抗敏和抗炎的功效,与马齿苋复配效果更佳,可保护细胞对抗UVB诱导产生的细胞死亡。
MADECASSOSIDE:提取自生长于马达加斯加的野生积雪草,富含高纯度的羟基积雪草甙,能够舒缓皮肤、重建细胞外基质成分、抗炎、调节&保护表皮。体内实验中能够止痒、抗红斑和改善皮肤脱屑,舒缓敏感肌肤、特异性皮炎和银屑病皮肤。适用于特异性皮炎、敏感以及熟龄肌肤的护理产品。
表5实施例5水凝胶的配方表
Figure PCTCN2019124636-appb-000009
Figure PCTCN2019124636-appb-000010
实施例5水凝胶的制备过程如下:
1.A相加热溶胀均匀,加入B相搅拌至澄清透明,
2.C2相预先加热搅拌溶解至透明,将C相加入A+B中搅拌分散均匀,
3.加入预先分散好的D,E相,搅拌均匀。
实施例5的水凝胶为透明流动液体,pH=6.76,耐热(48℃一个月)稳定,耐寒:(-15℃一个月)稳定。
实施例5的水凝胶能起到很好的美白祛斑作用,具体原理如下:
主要活性成分:
1.SEPIWHITE MSH:是促黑色素细胞激素α-MSH在黑色素合成过程中的对抗剂,作用于由α-MSH引发的黑色素形成的多个生化反应阶段,从而全面、有效抑制黑色素的生成,效果更加明显、持久。可用于各种使皮肤皙透的配方中。
2.BIO-SODIUM HYALURONATE POWDER(MMW):分子量为1.3至1.8兆道尔顿的高纯度、高质量的透明质酸钠粉末,能够在皮肤上形成一层粘弹性的、无色透明的非闭塞性的薄膜,从而具有保湿,增加皮肤弹性的功效。
3.MAGNOLIA EXTRACT:因为其外形高雅,在韩国曾被称为“天女花”。可抑制多巴的自氧化,清除自由基,且能够抑制炎症或UV照射后引起的色素沉着,对黄褐斑有明显的改善效果。
表6实施例6水凝胶的配方表
Figure PCTCN2019124636-appb-000011
实施例6水凝胶的制备过程如下:
1.A相加热搅拌均匀,C相加热至80度溶解再用滤布过滤;
2.A相搅拌冷却至45度,加入B,C,D(D相中防腐剂用丁二醇预先分散均匀,香精用增溶剂预先分散均匀)相,搅拌均匀。
实施例6的水凝胶为浅黄色透明流动啫喱。
实施例6的水凝胶能起到很好的抗糖化、抗自由基的作用,具体原理如下:
主要活性成分:
ALISTIN:是一款多效抗衰老产品,在抗衰老和抗氧化方面具创新性。氧化积累会引起皮肤结构垮塌,失去弹性,出现皱纹,Alistin不仅去除自由基,还能够还原过氧化的细胞膜,阻止氧化反应的扩散,达到氧化修复,这是VE和VC都无法做到的。糖化会导致蛋白质交联,产生皱纹,肤色暗淡发黄,Alistin不仅能预防糖化,还可以通过和糖化蛋白竞争逆转蛋白糖化。推荐用于老化皮肤的处理或者防晒和晒后修复,排毒及抵抗由老化引起的色素沉积等产品,在 美白,抗斑,抗脱发等产品中也是提高功效的优选原料。
SETILINE:利用生物技术从胡芦巴籽外皮中提取得到的小分子半乳甘露聚糖,可以预防真皮中的胶原蛋白和整联蛋白发生糖化,促进表皮角质形成细胞分化,增加表皮厚度,因此具有抗糖化、抗衰老、抗皱和改善皮肤屏障功能的作用。适用于抗皱、抗老化、紧实再生和保湿产品。
BPN-renovarin powder:强效的抗氧化剂和抗蛋白糖化剂,能高效捕捉人体内的自由基并抑制肌肤蛋白质的糖基化交联反应,减缓肌肤衰老,改善皮肤暗沉。
表7实施例7水凝胶的配方表
Figure PCTCN2019124636-appb-000012
实施例7水凝胶的制备过程如下:
分散A项分散均匀后,然后依次加入BCD相原料搅拌均匀。
实施例7的水凝胶为黄色液体,PH=5.83(10%水溶液),粘度:1485cps(3# 20’)耐热(48℃一个月)稳定,耐寒:(-15℃一个月)稳定。
实施例7的水凝胶能起到很好的抗蓝光作用,具体原理如下:
主要活性成分:
1.BPN-CIRUELO:显著降低炎症因子白介素的水平,从而消除皮肤的潜在炎症,恢复肌肤健康状态,减轻炎症对皮肤的伤害
2.GLUCOSYL RUTIN:葡糖基芦丁作为一种强抗氧化剂,结合紫外线吸收的特性,可以保护表皮和真皮免受紫外线的伤害,让皮肤不会再受到此类影响的困扰
3.SOLIBERINE NAT:源自高原植物密蒙花,能对抗高原地区强烈的日光辐射,同时对抗蓝光、红外光和紫外光对皮肤的损伤,在光损伤的各个关键点抑制和修复损伤的发生。
效果评价及性能检测
一、保湿型测试
(1)测试说明
累计样本N=20(样本量实现T检验)
测试目的:测试本发明实施例1双剂型精华中水凝胶单独使用的保湿性,以及复配不同比例油凝胶使用的保湿性,验证油凝胶能够提升水凝胶的保湿性。
测试方法:20名年龄在26-45岁之间的志愿者在手臂内侧分别单次涂抹含有0.04μL的样品A、B、C,分别于涂抹前、1h和2h用CK(Derma-Expert MC760)进行皮肤水分含量测定。
测试样品:
A:水凝胶(实施例1)
B:水凝胶(实施例1):油凝胶(实施例1)=4:1
C:水凝胶(实施例1):油凝胶(实施例1)=1:1
(2)测试环境
设立空白对照组,检测外界环境对保湿性测试的影响
1h VS空白;2h VS 1h;2h VS空白。
(3)测试结果(如图15-20所示)
1、样品A、B和C均有即时和长效保湿效果;
2、样品C的即时和长效保湿效果最好;
3、油凝胶能有效提升水凝胶的保湿性;
4、水凝胶和油凝胶复配使用,保湿效果好。
上述实施方式仅为本发明的优选实施方式,不能以此来限定本发明保护的范围,本领域的技术人员在本发明的基础上所做的任何非实质性的变化及替换均属于本发明所要求保护的范围。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种双剂型精华,其特征在于,包括油凝胶和水凝胶,所述油凝胶和所述水凝胶在使用时按照预设比例混合;所述油凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:活性成分0.1-6份;多元醇15-35份;枯草菌脂肽钠0.1-1份;油脂10-70份;水1-10份。
  2. 如权利要求1所述的双剂型精华,其特征在于,所述活性成分包括楔基海带提取物复合物0.1-0.5份,藻提取物复合物0.1-0.5份,复合氨基酸2-5份,眼围合剂0.1-1份;所述多元醇为甘油、丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、山梨醇、聚甘油醚-26中的一种或任意组合;所述油脂为甜扁桃油、低芥酸菜子油、C15-19烷、霍霍巴籽油、葵花籽油、大豆油、角鲨烷、辛基十二烷醇、矿油、二甲基硅氧烷和环甲基硅氧烷中的任意组合。
  3. 如权利要求2所述的双剂型精华,其特征在于,所述楔基海带提取物复合物为辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯和楔基海带提取物的组合物;所述藻提取物复合物为辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯和藻提取物的组合物;所述复合氨基酸为水、丁二醇、赖氨酸、组氨酸、精氨酸、天冬氨酸、苏氨酸、丝氨酸、谷氨酸、脯氨酸、甘氨酸、丙氨酸、缬氨酸、异亮氨酸、亮氨酸、酪氨酸和苯丙氨酸的组合物;所述的眼围合剂为小米椒果提取物、葡萄柚果提取物、假叶树根提取物、问荆提取物、光果甘草根提取物/抗坏血酸甲基硅烷醇果胶酸酯、甲基硅烷醇羟脯氨酸酯天冬氨酸酯、二甲基甲硅烷醇透明质酸酯、氨乙基次膦酸、丙二醇、丁二醇、甲基丙二醇、乙醇、水、PEG-35蓖麻油、苯氧乙醇和苯甲酸钠的组合物。
  4. 如权利要求1所述的双剂型精华,其特征在于,所述油凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:活性成分2-4份;多元醇20-30份;枯草菌脂肽钠0.1-1份;油脂40-65份;水1-10份;色素0.001-1份。
  5. 如权利要求1所述的双剂型精华,其特征在于,所述油凝胶通过D相乳化法制备而成。
  6. 如权利要求1所述的双剂型精华,其特征在于,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:溶剂70-90份、活性组分1-15份、增稠剂0.1-2份、保湿剂3-20份、中和剂0-1份、防腐剂0.1-1份、香精0.001-0.3份、增溶剂0.01-1份、pH值调节剂0-1份、螯合剂0-0.5份;其中,所述活性组分为抗敏活性物、美白活性物、抗糖化活性物或抗光活性物。
  7. 如权利要求6所述的双剂型精华,其特征在于,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:水70-90份,丁二醇3-8份,精致集妍肽复合物3-10份,植物甾醇类复合物1-5份,甘油聚醚-26 1-5份,聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6 0.1-1份,黄原胶0.1-0.5份,防腐复合物0.1-1份,PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.01-0.2份,香精0.01-0.2份;其中,所述精致集妍肽复合物为水、聚山梨醇酯-20、卡波姆、棕榈酰四肽-7、棕榈酰五肽-4、乙酰基六肽-8、甘油和1,2-己二醇的组合物;所述植物甾醇类复合物为水、丙二醇和植物甾醇类的组合物;所述防腐复合物为苯氧乙醇、羟苯甲酯、羟苯乙酯和乙基己基甘油的组合物;
    或者,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:甘油聚醚-26 1-5份、丁二醇1-8份、水80-90份、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6 0.1-1份、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.05-0.5份、三乙醇胺0.05-0.5份、羟基积雪草苷0.1-0.5份、水/甘油/枸桔果提取物0.5-2份、银耳提取物/双丙甘醇/EDTA二钠/水3-8份、水/丁二醇/苯氧乙醇/春榆根提取物0.5-2份、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油0.3-1份、香精0.001-0.01份、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.01-0.1份;
    又或者,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:水80-90份、甘油聚醚 -26 2-5份、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6 0.1-0.5份、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1-0.5份、烟酰胺1-5份、三乙醇胺0.1-0.5份、透明质酸钠0.01-0.1份、水/丁二醇/天女木兰提取物0.5-2份、十一碳烯酰基苯丙氨酸0.5-2份、三乙醇胺0.1-1份、丁二醇2-5份、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油0.3-1份、香精0.01-0.1份、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.1-0.3份;
    又或者,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:水85-95份、黄原胶0.1-0.3份、甘油聚醚-26 2-5份、卡波姆0.1-0.3份、脱羧肌肽HCl/丁二醇/羟苯甲酯钠/水0.5-2份、肌肽0.5-2份、柠檬酸0.3-1份、胡芦巴籽提取物0.3-1份、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油0.3-1份、丁二醇2-5份、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.1-0.3份、香精0.01-0.1份;
    再或者,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:水75-80份、卡波姆0.1-0.3份、黄原胶0.01-0.2份、水/聚山梨醇酯-20/甘油/1,2-己二醇/卡波姆/棕榈酰四肽-7 1-5份、葡糖基芦丁0.1-1份、三乙醇胺0.1-0.3份、EDTA-2NA0.01-0.2份、水/丙二醇/密蒙花提取物0.1-1份、银耳提取物/双丙甘醇/EDTA二钠/水3-5份、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油0.3-1份、丙二醇5-10份、丁二醇3-8份、香精0.01-0.2份、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.1-0.5份。
  8. 一种如权利要求1所述的双剂型精华的制备方法,其特征在于,包括油凝胶制备步骤和水凝胶制备步骤;
    所述油凝胶制备步骤如下:
    1)将配方量的枯草菌脂肽钠分散在配方量的多元醇中,搅拌均匀,得到醇相;
    2)将配方量的油脂混合均匀,得到油相;
    3)将所述油相滴加入所述醇相中,搅拌均匀得到半成品;
    4)将配方量的水和配方量的活性成分加入所述半成品中,搅拌均匀,即得。
  9. 如权利要求8所述的双剂型精华的制备方法,其特征在于,所述油凝胶的制备步骤如下:
    1)将配方量的枯草菌脂肽钠分散在配方量的多元醇中,以低于600rpm/min的速度搅拌5-10min,搅拌均匀,得到醇相;
    2)将配方量的油脂混合均匀,得到油相;
    3)将所述油相滴加入所述醇相中,滴加速度为5-10g/min,设置搅拌速度为500-800rpm/min,得到半成品;
    4)将配方量的水和配方量的活性成分加入所述半成品中,均质2-3min,搅拌均匀,即得。
  10. 如权利要求8所述的双剂型精华的制备方法,其特征在于,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:水70-90份,丁二醇3-8份,精致集妍肽复合物3-10份,植物甾醇类复合物1-5份,甘油聚醚-26 1-5份,聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6 0.1-1份,黄原胶0.1-0.5份,防腐剂复合物0.1-1份,PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.01-0.2份,香精0.01-0.2份;制备方法如下:
    将配方量的黄原胶、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6和水混合均匀,加热至80℃,保温10-30min,然后降温至45℃时加入配方量的精致集妍肽复合物、植物甾醇类复合物和甘油聚醚-26,得到第一混合物;接着将配方量的防腐剂复合物用配方量的丁二醇分散均匀,得到第二混合物;将配方量的香精用配方量的PEG-40氢化蓖麻油分散均匀,得到第三混合物;最后依次将所述第二混合物和所述第三混合物加入所述第一混合物中,混合均匀,即得;
    或者,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:甘油聚醚-26 1-5份、丁二醇1-8份、水80-90份、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6 0.1-1份、丙烯酸(酯)类 /C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.05-0.5份、三乙醇胺0.05-0.5份、羟基积雪草苷0.1-0.5份、水/甘油/枸桔果提取物0.5-2份、银耳提取物/双丙甘醇/EDTA二钠/水3-8份、水/丁二醇/苯氧乙醇/春榆根提取物0.5-2份、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油0.3-1份、香精0.001-0.01份、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.01-0.1份;
    将配方量的甘油聚醚-26、丁二醇、水、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物相加热搅拌,充分分散均匀;冷却后,依次加入配方量的三乙醇胺、羟基积雪草苷、水/甘油/枸桔果提取物、银耳提取物/双丙甘醇/EDTA二钠/水、水/丁二醇/苯氧乙醇/春榆根提取物、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油、香精和PEG-40氢化蓖麻油,充分搅拌均匀,即得;
    又或者,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:水80-90份、甘油聚醚-26 2-5份、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6 0.1-0.5份、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1-0.5份、烟酰胺1-5份、三乙醇胺0.1-0.5份、透明质酸钠0.01-0.1份、水/丁二醇/天女木兰提取物0.5-2份、十一碳烯酰基苯丙氨酸0.5-2份、三乙醇胺0.1-1份、丁二醇2-5份、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油0.3-1份、香精0.01-0.1份、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.1-0.3份;
    制备方法如下:
    将配方量的水分为两部分;将第一部分水以及配方量的甘油聚醚-26、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、烟酰胺加热溶胀均匀,然后加入配方量的三乙醇胺搅拌至澄清透明,得到第一混合物;接着将配方量的十一碳烯酰基苯丙氨酸、三乙醇胺以及第二部分水预先加热搅拌溶解至透明,加入配方量的透明质酸钠、水/丁二醇/天女木兰提取物,得 到第二混合物,将第二混合物加入第一混合物中,搅拌分散均匀,得到第三混合物;预先将丁二醇和苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油混合均匀,将香精和PEG-40氢化蓖麻油混合均匀,最后将它们加入第三混合物中,搅拌均匀,即得;
    又或者,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:水85-95份、黄原胶0.1-0.3份、甘油聚醚-26 2-5份、卡波姆0.1-0.3份、脱羧肌肽HCl/丁二醇/羟苯甲酯钠/水0.5-2份、肌肽0.5-2份、柠檬酸0.3-1份、胡芦巴籽提取物0.3-1份、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油0.3-1份、丁二醇2-5份、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.1-0.3份、香精0.01-0.1份;
    制备方法如下:
    将配方量的水分为两部分;将第一部分水以及配方量的黄原胶、甘油聚醚-26和卡波姆加热搅拌均匀,冷却至45度,得到第一混合物;将胡芦巴籽提取物和第二部分水混合加热至80度,溶解后再用滤布过滤;取滤液,以及配方量的脱羧肌肽HCl/丁二醇/羟苯甲酯钠/水、肌肽、柠檬酸加入第一混合液中,搅拌均匀,得第二混合液;苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油用丁二醇混合均匀、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油和香精混合均匀,加入第二混合物中,搅拌均匀,即得;
    再或者,所述水凝胶包括按照重量份计的以下组分:水75-80份、卡波姆0.1-0.3份、黄原胶0.01-0.2份、水/聚山梨醇酯-20/甘油/1,2-己二醇/卡波姆/棕榈酰四肽-7 1-5份、葡糖基芦丁0.1-1份、三乙醇胺0.1-0.3份、EDTA-2NA 0.01-0.2份、水/丙二醇/密蒙花提取物0.1-1份、银耳提取物/双丙甘醇/EDTA二钠/水3-5份、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油0.3-1份、丙二醇5-10份、丁二醇3-8份、香精0.01-0.2份、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.1-0.5份;
    制备方法如下:
    将配方量的水、卡波姆、EDTA-2NA和黄原胶分散均匀后,然后加入三乙醇胺搅拌均匀至澄清透明,得第一混合液;依次加入配方量的水/聚山梨醇酯-20/甘油/1,2-己二醇/卡波姆/棕榈酰四肽-7、葡糖基芦丁、水/丙二醇/密蒙花提取物、银耳提取物/双丙甘醇/EDTA二钠/水搅拌均匀后得第二混合液、苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油与丙二醇、丁二醇混合均匀、香精和PEG-40氢化蓖麻油混合均匀后,加入第二混合液,搅拌均匀,即得。
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