WO2020215655A1 - 一种羊毛摇粒绒的生产工艺 - Google Patents

一种羊毛摇粒绒的生产工艺 Download PDF

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WO2020215655A1
WO2020215655A1 PCT/CN2019/115332 CN2019115332W WO2020215655A1 WO 2020215655 A1 WO2020215655 A1 WO 2020215655A1 CN 2019115332 W CN2019115332 W CN 2019115332W WO 2020215655 A1 WO2020215655 A1 WO 2020215655A1
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setting
tentering
wool
speed
blank
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PCT/CN2019/115332
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French (fr)
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徐小斌
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南通泰慕士服装有限公司
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02Wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/10Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated nitriles, e.g. polyacrylonitrile, polyvinylidene cyanide

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a production process of wool polar fleece, in particular to a production process of wool polar fleece.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to provide a process for producing wool polar fleece, which solves one or more of the above-mentioned existing technical problems.
  • the technical scheme of the present invention is: a production process of wool polar fleece, including the following steps:
  • Rolling water slitting Use a water rolling mill to preliminarily dewater the bleached and dyed blank, and then use a slitting machine to open the cylindrical blank;
  • Tenter setting stretch the blank with a stenter setting machine, the temperature of the tentering setting is 110°C, and the speed is 20m/min;
  • Polarizing continuous processing, shaking for 35-45min at 80-85°C, the particles are plump and fastness is stable.
  • Tenter setting The fabric is stretched and shaped with a stenter setting machine, the temperature of the tentering setting is 110°C, and the speed is 20m/min; the entire production process is completed.
  • step (4) the wet cloth is required to be fully relaxed and tension-free.
  • step (5) 2.5-4.5% of the raising agent is added to the setting roll of the setting machine.
  • a production process of wool polar fleece includes the following steps:
  • Rolling water splitting use a water roller to preliminarily dewater the bleached and dyed blank, and then use a slitting machine to open the cylindrical blank;
  • Tenter setting stretch and shape the blank with a stenter setting machine, the temperature of the tentering setting is 110°C, and the speed is 20m/min;
  • Polarizing continuous processing, shaking for 35-45 minutes at 80-85°C, the particles are plump and fastness is stable.
  • Tenter setting The fabric is stretched and shaped with a stenter setting machine.
  • the temperature of the tentering setting is 110°C and the speed is 20m/min; the entire production process is completed.
  • step (4) it is required that the wet cloth is completely relaxed and tension-free.
  • step (5) 2.5-4.5% of the raising agent is added to the setting roll of the setting machine.
  • the thermal resistance and moisture resistance of the product are much higher than traditional fabrics; wool fabrics can hold static air due to the curling structure of wool fibers to achieve warmth retention; but pure wool knitted fabrics
  • the coil structure causes the coil holes to be ventilated. When used alone, the static air is easily affected by the air circulating through the holes. It needs to be combined with a windproof jacket to achieve a better thermal resistance effect.
  • Polyester polar fleece makes polyester fibers imitate the phenomenon of wool loops, covering the holes of the knitted loops, which can greatly improve the warmth retention effect.
  • This product combines wool and polar fleece. The fleece can effectively reduce the ventilation and heat convection of the holes in the wool loop, which greatly improves the warmth retention effect.
  • the thermal resistance and moisture resistance of the product are much higher than traditional fabrics; wool fabrics can hold static air due to the curling structure of wool fibers to achieve warmth retention; but pure wool knitted fabrics
  • the coil structure causes the coil holes to be ventilated. When used alone, the static air is easily affected by the air circulating through the holes. It needs to be combined with a windproof jacket to achieve a better thermal resistance effect.
  • Polyester polar fleece makes polyester fibers imitate the phenomenon of wool loops, covering the holes of the knitted loops, which can greatly improve the warmth retention effect.
  • This product combines wool and polar fleece. The fleece can effectively reduce the ventilation and heat convection of the holes in the wool loop, which greatly improves the warmth retention effect.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

一种羊毛摇粒绒的生产工艺,包括如下步骤:织造;漂染;轧水剖幅:用轧水机对漂染完成的毛坯进行初步去水,随后用剖幅机对圆筒光坯进行开幅处理;烘干:将毛坯在110℃环境下以20m/min的速度进行烘干;拉幅定型:将毛坯用拉幅定型机进行拉伸定型,拉幅定型的温度为110℃,速度为20m/min;表面处理:拉绒:采用24辊直弯针组合,连起八次,加梳毛/剪毛,毛高测定在3.5-4.5mm之间;摇粒:连续摇粒加工,在80-85℃左右情况下摇粒35-45min,粒子丰满,牢度稳定。拉幅定型:再将布料用拉幅定型机进行拉伸定型,拉幅定型的温度为110℃,速度为20m/min;完成整条生产工艺。生产出的羊毛摇粒绒保暖性与透气性都极佳,舒适感好。

Description

一种羊毛摇粒绒的生产工艺 技术领域
本发明涉及一种羊毛摇粒绒的生产工艺,尤其是一种羊毛摇粒绒的生产工艺。
背景技术
目前市场上的摇粒绒产品的原料来源很多,但绝大多数起绒面为合成纤维,由于天然纤维本身的热塑性问题,其起粒较为困难,目前市场还没有出现将天然纤维直接摇粒的产品。由于羊毛为蛋白质纤维,容易在高温和重金属离子作用下,发生变质,从而导致羊毛作为纺织用纤维的使用价值的下降。而如果要生产羊毛摇粒绒产品,则需要根据羊毛本身易在酸碱环境中水解的特点,采用特殊的生产工艺,来解决难题。
发明内容
本发明的目的提供一种羊毛摇粒绒的生产工艺,解决上述现有技术问题中的一个或者多个。
为解决上述技术问题,本发明的技术方案为:一种羊毛摇粒绒的生产工艺,包括如下步骤:
(一)织造:选取50NM毛腈+75D+200D摇粒绒布进行纺织;
(二)漂染:选取所需燃料对织造完成的毛坯进行染色;
(三)轧水剖幅:用轧水机对漂染完成的毛坯进行初步去水,随后用剖幅机对圆筒光坯进行开幅处理;
(四)烘干:将毛坯在110℃环境下以20m/min的速度进行烘干;
(五)拉幅定型:将毛坯用拉幅定型机进行拉伸定型,拉幅定型的温度为110℃,速度为20m/min;
(六)表面处理:拉绒:采用24辊直弯针组合,连起八次,加梳毛/剪毛,毛高测定在3.5-4.5mm之间;
摇粒:连续摇粒加工,在80-85℃左右情况下摇粒35-45min,粒子丰满, 牢度稳定。
(七)拉幅定型:再将布料用拉幅定型机进行拉伸定型,拉幅定型的温度为110℃,速度为20m/min;完成整条生产工艺。
在一些实施方式中,步骤(四)中要求完湿布全松弛无张力状态。
在一些实施方式中,步骤(五)中定型机的定型轧中加入2.5-4.5%起绒剂。
本发明的较佳实施方式
一种羊毛摇粒绒的生产工艺,其创新点在于:包括如下步骤:
(1)织造:选取50NM毛腈+75D+200D摇粒绒布进行纺织;
(2)漂染:选取所需燃料对织造完成的毛坯进行染色;
(3)轧水剖幅:用轧水机对漂染完成的毛坯进行初步去水,随后用剖幅机对圆筒光坯进行开幅处理;
(4)烘干:将毛坯在110℃环境下以20m/min的速度进行烘干;
(5)拉幅定型:将毛坯用拉幅定型机进行拉伸定型,拉幅定型的温度为110℃,速度为20m/min;
(6)表面处理:拉绒:采用24辊直弯针组合,连起八次,加梳毛/剪毛,毛高测定在3.5-4.5mm之间;
摇粒:连续摇粒加工,在80-85℃左右情况下摇粒35-45min,粒子丰满,牢度稳定。
(7)拉幅定型:再将布料用拉幅定型机进行拉伸定型,拉幅定型的温度为110℃,速度为20m/min;完成整条生产工艺。
在一些实施方式中,步骤(4)中要求完湿布全松弛无张力状态。
在一些实施方式中,步骤(5)中定型机的定型轧中加入2.5-4.5%起绒剂。
本技术方案可以发现产品与传统面料相比,热阻和湿阻的数值远高于传统面料;羊毛织物因为羊毛纤维的卷曲结构可以夹持静态空气从而取得保暖 效果;但是单纯的羊毛针织物的线圈结构导致线圈孔眼透风,单独使用时夹持静态空气容易受孔眼流通空气的影响,需要与防风外套相结合才能取得较好的热阻效果。涤纶摇粒绒使将涤纶纤维模仿羊毛圈曲集合现象,将针织线圈的孔眼遮盖,可以大大提升保暖效果。本产品将羊毛与摇粒绒两者相结合,绒毛可以有效地降低羊毛线圈中孔眼的透气和热对流,大幅提升了保暖效果。
下方为面料数据对比:
GB/T 11048-2008《纺织品生理舒适性稳态条件下热阻和湿阻的测定》
Figure PCTCN2019115332-appb-000001
Figure PCTCN2019115332-appb-000002
Figure PCTCN2019115332-appb-000003
Figure PCTCN2019115332-appb-000004
下面列出一些基础数据
毛坯:
门幅:100cm*2,克重:217g/m2,横密:22.5N/1英寸,纵密:45N/1英寸。
实测比例:50NM/75D/100D=40.8%/22.9%/36.3%
1、烘干:110℃ 146cm 30% 50/80直 20m/min
2、拉幅定型:110℃ 146cm 30% 50/80 直 20m/min 轧起绒剂2.5%
3、全检:门幅:149/143
4、拉绒、摇粒:8台机台组合一次,剪毛一次,摇粒加工40分80度,冷确。
拉幅定型:轧亲水柔软UBL:3%
110℃ 142cm 25% 40/80 直 20m/min(绒面朝上,倒绒上机)实测轧余率89.4%。
160/110成品:142cm 257.7g(未平衡)10.8*11(简易缩水)
本发明要求保护范围由所附的权利要求书及其等效物界定。以上所述仅是本发明的优选方式,应当指出,对于本领域普通技术人员来说,在不脱离本发明创造构思的前提下,还可以做出若干相似的变形和改进,这些也应视为本发明的保护范围之内。
工业实用性
本技术方案可以发现产品与传统面料相比,热阻和湿阻的数值远高于传 统面料;羊毛织物因为羊毛纤维的卷曲结构可以夹持静态空气从而取得保暖效果;但是单纯的羊毛针织物的线圈结构导致线圈孔眼透风,单独使用时夹持静态空气容易受孔眼流通空气的影响,需要与防风外套相结合才能取得较好的热阻效果。涤纶摇粒绒使将涤纶纤维模仿羊毛圈曲集合现象,将针织线圈的孔眼遮盖,可以大大提升保暖效果。本产品将羊毛与摇粒绒两者相结合,绒毛可以有效地降低羊毛线圈中孔眼的透气和热对流,大幅提升了保暖效果。

Claims (3)

  1. 一种羊毛摇粒绒的生产工艺,其特征在于:包括如下步骤:
    (1)织造:选取50NM毛腈+75D+200D摇粒绒布进行纺织;
    (2)漂染:选取所需燃料对织造完成的毛坯进行染色;
    (3)轧水剖幅:用轧水机对漂染完成的毛坯进行初步去水,随后用剖幅机对圆筒光坯进行开幅处理;
    (4)烘干:将毛坯在110℃环境下以20m/min的速度进行烘干;
    (5)拉幅定型:将毛坯用拉幅定型机进行拉伸定型,拉幅定型的温度为110℃,速度为20m/min;
    (6)表面处理:拉绒:采用24辊直弯针组合,连起八次,加梳毛/剪毛,毛高测定在3.5-4.5mm之间。
    摇粒:连续摇粒加工,在80-85℃左右情况下摇粒35-45min,粒子丰满,牢度稳定。
    (7)拉幅定型:再将布料用拉幅定型机进行拉伸定型,拉幅定型的温度为110℃,速度为20m/min;完成整条生产工艺。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的一种羊毛摇粒绒的生产工艺,其特征在于:
    步骤(4)中要求完湿布全松弛无张力状态。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的一种羊毛摇粒绒的生产工艺,其特征在于:
    步骤(5)中定型机的定型轧中加入2.5-4.5%起绒剂。
PCT/CN2019/115332 2019-04-23 2019-11-04 一种羊毛摇粒绒的生产工艺 WO2020215655A1 (zh)

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