WO2020111495A1 - 직물원단의 주름 성형방법 - Google Patents
직물원단의 주름 성형방법 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2020111495A1 WO2020111495A1 PCT/KR2019/012989 KR2019012989W WO2020111495A1 WO 2020111495 A1 WO2020111495 A1 WO 2020111495A1 KR 2019012989 W KR2019012989 W KR 2019012989W WO 2020111495 A1 WO2020111495 A1 WO 2020111495A1
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- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- layer
- wrinkles
- wrinkle
- gelatin
- Prior art date
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Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06J—PLEATING, KILTING OR GOFFERING TEXTILE FABRICS OR WEARING APPAREL
- D06J1/00—Pleating, kilting or goffering textile fabrics or wearing apparel
- D06J1/12—Forms of pleats or the like
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06H—MARKING, INSPECTING, SEAMING OR SEVERING TEXTILE MATERIALS
- D06H5/00—Seaming textile materials
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a wrinkle forming method of a fabric fabric.
- wrinkle fabrics are fabricated after weaving the fabric.
- the crease process is a post-processing heat treatment with high pressure as a post-processing to form a wrinkle of a desired pattern, and the crease fabric by the conventional crease process does not have a clear wrinkle pattern, and is washed several times or left/right.
- the fabric is pulled frequently, there is a problem that the wrinkle pattern is deteriorated.
- wrinkles are formed by pressure together with heat, there is also a problem that crease processing cannot be performed on thick fabrics, and there is also a problem that durability decreases as thin fabrics are targeted.
- the synthetic fiber yarn before heat treatment is used as a service (sewing thread) to quilt the fabric according to the desired pattern, and then the whole fabric is heat treated at the normal heat treatment temperature of the yarn used as a service to shrink the service.
- a wrinkle can be formed according to the container, so that a free, diverse, and delicate wrinkle fabric can be produced according to the quilted shape of the serving.
- Technical problem to be achieved by the present invention is to provide a method for forming a wrinkle of a fabric fabric to form a uniform and clear wrinkles.
- a technical problem to be achieved by the present invention is to provide a method of forming a wrinkle of a fabric fabric for forming a wrinkle having a uniform height.
- the technical problem to be achieved by the present invention is to provide a fabric fabric wrinkle forming method that can easily remove the residues that were bonded during the fabric molding.
- a technical problem to be achieved by the present invention is to provide a method for forming wrinkles of a fabric fabric without a sewing line.
- the technical problem to be achieved by the present invention is to provide a method for forming a wrinkle of a fabric fabric that does not need to adhere to a separate insulating fabric in the garment manufacturing process by bonding the insulating fabric to the fabric fabric for forming wrinkles.
- the wrinkle forming method of the fabric fabric is a method of forming wrinkles on the fabric fabric, the lower layer of which the support layer of the heat shrinkable material shrinks when a predetermined heat is applied to the upper surface of the work table Placement step, a middle layer placement step of arranging a bulky gelatin layer on the upper surface of the support layer, an upper layer placement step of arranging a fabric fabric having wrinkles formed on the upper surface of the gelatin layer, a fabric fabric, a gelatin layer, and an integrated layer formed by overlapping the support layer , By stitching into a predetermined pattern using a sewing thread, a wrinkle forming step of forming a predetermined wrinkle by a lockstitch, a heat treatment of the integrated layer, a wrinkle fixing step of fixing wrinkles, and an integrated layer having wrinkles fixed, And a washing step of removing the gelatin layer and the support layer from the fabric fabric.
- the gelatin layer is made of gelatin in the form of a gel, and is in close contact with the lower surface of the fabric fabric, so that the shape of wrinkles formed on the fabric fabric can be kept tight.
- the wrinkle fixing step may press the upper surface of the integrated layer to a predetermined height, so that the wrinkles are formed flat.
- the sewing thread may be a soluble yarn dissolved in the washing liquid in the washing step.
- the dissolving yarn may include polyvinyl alcohol that is soluble in water.
- a bonding step of overlapping and pressing one surface of the insulating fabric and one side of the fabric fabric may be further included.
- a gel layer having a gel property maintains a bulky space and tightly presses the space on the lower surface of the fabric fabric on which the wrinkles are formed, so that wrinkles formed on the fabric fabric can be uniformly and clearly formed.
- a clear wrinkle of uniform height can be formed on the pressing surface of the fabric fabric by pressing the upper surface of the fabric fabric on which the wrinkles are formed by pressing the flat with the gelatin layer maintaining a sense of volume.
- the present invention can easily remove gelatin that has been in close contact with the fabric fabric during wrinkle molding.
- the present invention can easily remove the support layer used for wrinkle formation from the fabric fabric having wrinkles formed by using a melt yarn as a sewing thread.
- a sewing line does not appear during wrinkle molding, and thus it is possible to improve the aesthetics of the fabric fabric having wrinkles.
- the present invention can provide a fabric fabric in which wrinkles are imparted with heat retention by pressure-bonding the insulating fabric after wrinkle molding on the fabric fabric.
- FIG. 1 is a process flow chart showing a wrinkle forming method of a fabric fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention.
- Figure 2 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing the wrinkles formed on the fabric fabric according to the conventional fabric fabric wrinkle forming method.
- Figure 3 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing the wrinkles formed on the fabric fabric according to the wrinkle forming method of the fabric fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention.
- FIG. 4 is a schematic cross-sectional view of FIG. 3 showing wrinkles formed on the fabric fabric when the upper surface of the integrated layer is pressed.
- Figure 5 (a) is a photograph of a fabric fabric wrinkled according to the prior art, (b) is a photograph of a fabric fabric wrinkled according to an embodiment of the present invention.
- FIG. 6 is a process flow diagram of a process flow diagram of a method for forming a wrinkle of a fabric fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention, wherein a bonding step is further included.
- FIG. 1 is a process flow chart showing a wrinkle forming method of a fabric fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention.
- the wrinkle forming method of the fabric fabric is a lower layer placement step (S110), a middle layer placement step (S120), upper layer placement step (S130), wrinkle forming step (S140), wrinkles It includes a fixing step (S150) and a washing step (S160).
- a support layer 110 of a heat-shrinkable material is placed on a work table 930, and a gelatin layer 130, which has a sense of volume and maintains the shape of wrinkles, is superimposed on it, and a fabric to form wrinkles is formed thereon.
- the fabrics 150 are overlapped.
- a sewing thread 300: thread used for sewing
- the worker sews a pattern in a desired pattern. do.
- various wrinkles may be formed according to the pattern of the lockstitch.
- the wrinkles formed in the wrinkle formation step (S140) are fixed to form wrinkles.
- the gelatin layer 130 and the support layer 110 are removed from the fabric fabric 150, thereby completing the fabrication of the wrinkled fabric fabric 150 do.
- the lower layer arrangement step (S110) is to place and fix the support layer 110 positioned on the lowermost layer of the integrated layer 100 on the upper side of the work table 930.
- the work table 930 may be a normal space that can be sewn into a pattern desired by an operator on the integrated layer 100 using a sewing thread 300 as a means such as a sewing machine, an embroidery machine, or a hand needle.
- the support layer 110 is a layer of a heat-shrinkable material that contracts when constant heat is applied, and the support layer 110 can be formed of a material such as a nonwoven fabric or film that contracts when heat is applied.
- the support layer 110 may use a fabric having a higher shrinkage rate by heating than the fabric fabric 150 on which wrinkles are formed.
- the support layer 110 may have a contraction rate of about 3% or more higher than that of a wrinkled fabric for forming wrinkles.
- the shrinkage may be in the range of 3 to 8% so that the shape of the wrinkles can come out best.
- the support layer 110 is disposed on the lowermost layer of the integrated layer 100 to support the integrated layer 100.
- the middle layer arrangement step S120 is a step of disposing the gelatin layer 130 forming the middle layer of the integrated layer 100 on the upper side of the support layer 110 disposed on the work table 930.
- the gelatin layer 130 may be a layer containing gelatin of a gel property that is elastic and can maintain its shape without flowing.
- the gelatin layer 130 is maintained in a gel form even at high temperature heat as the concentration of gelatin is high, the shape can be maintained until the wrinkles formed by the sewing thread 300 on the integrated layer 100 are completely formed by heat treatment. It may be a gelatin layer 130 having a gelatin concentration.
- the gelatin layer 130 may be disposed on the support layer 110 and overlap with the lower surface of the fabric fabric 150 disposed on the gelatin layer 130.
- the gelatin layer 130 preferably has a thickness lower than the height of the wrinkles formed by the fabric fabric 150 to be formed. For example, when the height of the wrinkle is 5 mm, the height of the gelatin layer 130 may be less than 5 mm.
- the gelatin layer 130 may press the lower side of the fabric fabric 150 tightly when the fabric fabric 150 forms a wrinkle shape by the stitching of the sewing thread 300, so that the wrinkle shape is maintained.
- the upper layer arrangement step (S130) is to place and fix the fabric fabric 150, which is located on the uppermost surface of the integrated layer 100 and forms an upper layer, on the upper surface of the gelatin layer 130 disposed on the work table 930. .
- the fabric fabric 150 is a fabric in which actual wrinkles are molded.
- the fabric fabric 150 may be a fabric whose shrinkage rate due to heat is lower than that of the support layer 110.
- the fabric fabric 150 When the support layer 110 is contracted by heat, the fabric fabric 150 is inflated upward by an area corresponding to the contracted volume, and wrinkles may be formed. In this case, one end sewn by the sewing thread may not be formed with a wrinkle that is in contact with the support layer 110 and inflate upward.
- the fabric fabric 150 is used more as much as the size of the wrinkles generated when the wrinkles are molded, it can actually be cut and used larger than the size when the wrinkles are formed.
- the size of the fabric fabric 150 input to the process may vary depending on the size of the wrinkles.
- the wrinkle may be about twice the size of the fabric fabric 150 that has been molded.
- the fabric fabric 150 is disposed on the gelatin layer 130 and may be disposed in close contact with the gelatin layer 130.
- the support layer 110, the gelatin layer 130, and the fabric fabric 150 are superposedly disposed on the work table 930 to form the integrated layer 100, and the sewn into the integrated layer 100 by sewing thread. In order to do so, it is preferable to fix the end side of the integrated layer 100 with a jig.
- the integrated layer 100 may be fixed by the operator's hand in order to sew through the sewing thread 300.
- the wrinkle forming step (S140) is that the worker sews a desired pattern using a sewing thread 300 on the integrated layer 100 formed of the support layer 110, the gelatin layer 130, and the fabric fabric 150.
- a means such as a sewing machine, an embroidery machine, or a hand needle may be used.
- the sewing thread 300 passes through the fabric fabric 150, the gelatin layer 130 and the support layer 110 from the upper layer, and then again the support layer 110, the gelatin layer 130 and the fabric fabric 150 Can be sewn through.
- one end of the fabric fabric 150 of the upper layer is pressed by pushing the gelatin layer 130, it can be in contact with the lower support layer 110.
- Wrinkle fixing step (S150) is to mold the wrinkles formed on the fabric fabric 150 of the upper layer of the integrated layer 100 by performing a normal heat treatment on the integrated layer 100.
- the fabric layer 150, the gelatin layer 130, and the integrated layer 100 formed of the support layer 110 pass through a heating chamber where a plurality of infrared heaters are heated while being sewn by a sewing thread 300, Wrinkles can be fixed by heat treatment.
- the fabric fabric 150 uses a fabric fabric 150 that does not shrink at the heating temperature and heating time.
- the support layer 110 it is preferable to use a heat-shrinkable water material having a shrinkage of about 3% to 8% of the support layer 110.
- the heat treatment temperature in a temperature range below the transition point of the fabric fabric 150 (the boundary point at which the material changes shape according to temperature) and below the softening point (the boundary point at which the solid material begins to soften and soften).
- the polyester may be 3 minutes at 160 degrees, the nylon at 1 degree at 150 degrees, and the polypropylene at 1 minute at 140 degrees.
- the washing step (S160) is to remove the gelatin layer 130 and the support layer 110 of the lower layer from the fabric fabric 150 of the upper layer by immersing the integrated layer 100 in which wrinkles are fixed in hot water.
- gelatin layer 130 Since the gelatin layer 130 is soluble in hot water, it can be removed from the fabric fabric 150 through a water washing operation using hot water.
- the support layer 110 may be removed through a separate operation.
- the support layer 110 may be removed by immersing the integrated layer in an acid and alkali solvent that dissolves the support layer 110.
- the fabric fabric 150 having the wrinkles desired by the operator can be obtained.
- the gelatin layer 130 is closely distributed in a space where wrinkles are formed and maintains a sense of volume, it is possible to mold the fabric fabric 150 having an even and uniform wrinkle pattern.
- Figure 2 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing the wrinkles formed on the fabric fabric according to the conventional fabric fabric wrinkle forming method
- Figure 3 is formed on the fabric fabric according to the wrinkle forming method of the fabric fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention It is a schematic cross section showing wrinkles.
- the gelatin layer 130 may keep the wrinkles of the fabric fabric 150 taut when forming wrinkles on the fabric fabric 150 by the stitching of the sewing thread 300.
- the gelatin layer 130 used in the present invention since the gelatin layer 130 used in the present invention is maintained in a gel form, it moves fluidly according to the stitching according to the sewing thread 300 and can fill the space between the fabric yarn and the support layer 110 tightly. have. Through this, the wrinkles formed on the fabric fabric 150 may be formed by forming all the portions into tight and clear wrinkles.
- the space 500 is empty between the fabric fabric 150 on which the wrinkle is formed and the support layer 110 supporting and contracting the fabric fabric 150. ) Is formed so that it does not support the wrinkles, and thus the formed wrinkles are not uniform or unclear.
- the back surface of the fabric fabric 150 is pressed by the gelatin layer 130 having a fluid gel property, the gap between the fabric fabric 150 and the support layer 110 Since the 500 is removed, the wrinkles formed can be formed to be taut and uniform.
- FIG. 4 is a schematic cross-sectional view of FIG. 3 showing wrinkles formed on the fabric fabric when the upper surface of the integrated layer is pressed.
- the wrinkle fixing step (S150) includes a process of pressing the upper surface of the integrated layer 100 formed of the fabric fabric 150, the gelatin layer 130 and the support layer 110 in parallel with a constant height. can do.
- a heat treatment process is performed to fix the wrinkles formed in the integrated layer 100.
- a pressure roller or a pressure plate parallel to the integrated layer 100 is used before or during the heat treatment process.
- the pressing machine 910 of the concave shape formed in the integrated layer 100 may be pressed by pressing.
- the upper side of the wrinkles formed in the integrated layer 100 is pressed and pressed using a pressure roller or pressurizer 910 of the pressure plate, or the upper side of the wrinkles formed in the integrated layer 100 during the heat treatment process is pressed. It can be pressed by pressing using a pressing machine 910 of a roller or a pressing plate.
- the height of the upper side to be pressed is smaller than the height of the formed wrinkle.
- FIG. 5 (a) is a photograph of a fabric fabric 150 wrinkled according to a conventional method, (b) is a photo of a fabric fabric 150 wrinkled according to an embodiment of the present invention.
- the fabric fabric 150 is wrinkled by the conventional method is not clear wrinkles, wrinkles are not formed as intended by the operator.
- the fabric fabric 150 is wrinkled by the method according to an embodiment of the present invention is clear wrinkles and the height of the wrinkles is uniform, to form wrinkles as the operator intended Can be.
- Fig. 5 (b) since the shape of the wrinkles on the upper surface and the wrinkles on the lower surface formed on the fabric fabric are different, it is possible to select and use a desired wrinkle shape according to the operator's selection.
- the operator has the advantage of being able to select and use convex and flat wrinkles on the upper surface or concave on the lower surface to give a three-dimensional effect of intaglio.
- the sewing thread 300 is sewn in a predetermined pattern according to the intention of the operator on the fabric fabric 150, the gelatin layer 130, and the support layer 110 in the wrinkle forming step (S140), so that the worker wants the integrated layer 100 It is a resealable thread used to form wrinkles.
- the sewing thread 300 may be a soluble yarn dissolved in the washing solution in the washing step (S160) of the integrated layer 100 formed with wrinkles.
- the washing solution may be an acid or an alkali solvent or water, and it is preferable that the fabric fabric 150 is made of a component that does not dissolve at the same time as dissolving the dissolved yarn.
- the soluble yarn may be Solvron, a water-soluble yarn of Niitivy, Japan, containing polyvinyl alcohol.
- Solbron is a water-soluble yarn of P.V.A.(POLYVINYL ALCOHOL) series, and is soluble in hot water as well as cold water, so the temperature of the washing solution can be used according to the melting temperature of the gelatin layer 130 regardless of the temperature of the solvent.
- the sewing thread 300 outside the fabric fabric 150 A fabric fabric 150 having no wrinkles can be obtained. This can improve the aesthetic sense.
- FIG. 6 is a process flow diagram of a process flow diagram of the wrinkle forming method of the fabric fabric 150 according to an embodiment of the present invention, the bonding step (S170) is further included.
- washing step (S160) may further include a bonding step (S170) for bonding the fabric fabric 150 and the insulating fabric.
- the bonding step (S170) is a step of evenly applying a fiber fabric adhesive to one side of the insulating fabric (S170a), a sewing thread 300 is removed from one side of the insulating fabric to which the fiber fabric adhesive is applied, and the sewing line is removed. It may include a step (S170b) of superposing and placing the fabric fabric 150, which is formed without wrinkles (S170c), and pressing the overlapped insulating fabric and the fabric fabric 150 to be adhered to each other (S170c).
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Abstract
Description
Claims (6)
- 직물원단에 주름을 성형하는 방법에 있어서,소정의 열이 가해지면 수축하는 열수축 소재의 지지층을 작업대 상면에 배치하는 하층 배치 단계;상기 지지층 상면에 부피감을 가지는 젤라틴층을 배치하는 중층 배치 단계;상기 젤라틴층 상면에 주름이 형성되는 상기 직물원단을 배치하는 상층 배치 단계;상기 직물원단, 상기 젤라틴층 및 상기 지지층이 중첩되어 형성하는 통합층에, 재봉사를 사용하여 소정의 무늬로 박음질하여, 상기 박음질에 의한 소정의 주름을 형성하는 주름 형성 단계;상기 통합층을 열처리하여, 상기 주름을 고정하는 주름 고정 단계; 및상기 주름이 고정된 상기 통합층을 세척하여, 상기 직물원단으로부터 상기 젤라틴층과 상기 지지층을 제거하는 세척 단계를 포함하는 직물원단의 주름 성형방법.
- 제1항에서,상기 젤라틴층은,겔(gel) 성상의 젤라틴으로 이루어지며,상기 직물원단의 하면에 밀착되어, 상기 직물원단에 형성된 상기 주름의 형태를 팽팽하게 유지시키는 직물원단의 주름 성형방법.
- 제2항에서,상기 주름 고정 단계는,상기 통합층의 상면을 소정의 높이로 가압하여, 상기 주름이 편편하게 형성되게 하는 직물원단의 주름 성형방법.
- 제2항에서,상기 재봉사는,상기 세척 단계에서 세척액에 용해되는 용해사인 직물원단의 주름 성형방법.
- 제4항에서,상기 용해사는,물에 용해되는 폴리비닐알코올을 포함하는 직물원단의 주름 성형방법.
- 제4항에서,상기 세척 단계 이후에,보온원단의 일면에 접착제를 고루 도포한 후, 상기 보온원단의 일면과 상기 직물원단의 일면을 중첩 및 가압하는 접합 단계를 더 포함하는 직물원단의 주름 성형방법.
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KR10-2018-0148263 | 2018-11-27 |
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CN113936548A (zh) * | 2020-06-29 | 2022-01-14 | 云谷(固安)科技有限公司 | 显示模组、折弯垫块及显示模组的制作方法 |
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KR100389282B1 (ko) * | 2000-08-24 | 2003-06-25 | 백우진 | 패딩주름의류 및 패딩주름원단의 제조방법 |
KR100716494B1 (ko) | 2005-08-26 | 2007-05-10 | 권순호 | 주름직물의 제조방법 |
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KR20010091368A (ko) * | 2000-03-15 | 2001-10-23 | 백우진 | 보온주름의류 및 원단 |
KR20020009103A (ko) * | 2000-07-24 | 2002-02-01 | 백우진 | 테이프원단을 이용한 주름의류 및 그 제조방법 |
KR200337190Y1 (ko) * | 2003-09-09 | 2004-01-03 | 손대승 | 주름직물 가공원단 |
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CN113936548A (zh) * | 2020-06-29 | 2022-01-14 | 云谷(固安)科技有限公司 | 显示模组、折弯垫块及显示模组的制作方法 |
CN113936548B (zh) * | 2020-06-29 | 2024-01-19 | 云谷(固安)科技有限公司 | 显示模组、折弯垫块及显示模组的制作方法 |
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KR20200062637A (ko) | 2020-06-04 |
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