WO2020024314A1 - 一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液及其制备与应用 - Google Patents

一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液及其制备与应用 Download PDF

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WO2020024314A1
WO2020024314A1 PCT/CN2018/099357 CN2018099357W WO2020024314A1 WO 2020024314 A1 WO2020024314 A1 WO 2020024314A1 CN 2018099357 W CN2018099357 W CN 2018099357W WO 2020024314 A1 WO2020024314 A1 WO 2020024314A1
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chinese medicine
parts
traditional chinese
acne
oil
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PCT/CN2018/099357
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English (en)
French (fr)
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龚盛昭
李仕梅
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广东轻工职业技术学院
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Publication of WO2020024314A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020024314A1/zh

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/10—Anti-acne agents
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008—Preparations for oily skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/85—Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth for cosmetics, in particular to a traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth with oil control and acne control effects, and preparation and application thereof, and belongs to the field of cosmetics.
  • Sebum is oil produced by the sebum cells inside the skin and secreted to the surface of the skin. Excessive sebum secretion can lead to shiny skin and an uncomfortable touch.
  • the secretion function of sebaceous glands is relatively strong. Especially in summer, the body's own metabolism will be accelerated, the sweat glands and sebaceous glands in the body will be strengthened, and the sebum secretion will increase, which will not only affect the appearance but also cause excessive sebum accumulation It is also easy to cause some skin diseases, such as acne, acne, etc. Therefore, it is necessary to control excessive oil secretion.
  • Oil-control cosmetics with oil-absorbing powder ingredients This type of oil-control cosmetics mainly uses some oil-absorbing powder ingredients, such as silica, titanium dioxide, etc. These ingredients are derived from synthetic or mineral ingredients. In addition to their ability to reduce oil secretion for a short period of time, it is difficult to have long-term control of oil secretion, and it is more likely to cause skin allergic reactions.
  • Oil control cosmetics with cooling agent The cooling agent is mainly alcohol and mint, both of which have the effect of instantly shrinking pores. However, this cooling effect can only treat the symptoms, that is, the convergence effect will disappear after a short time, and the subsequent emergence of oil cannot be effectively controlled.
  • Vitamin-added oil-controlling cosmetics This type of oil-controlling cosmetics uses vitamins as oil-conditioning ingredients.
  • the main target is people who suffer from alopecia dermatitis due to lack of vitamin B6.
  • For oily skin with facial blisters, and often accompanied by inflammation For oily skin with fat leakage, choosing an oil-control product with vitamin B6, vitamin B3, and vitamin H can better cure the symptoms.
  • using such oil-control cosmetics may not be effective.
  • the primary object of the present invention is to provide a Chinese herbal compound fermentation broth for cosmetics with oil control and acne removing effects.
  • the traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth for cosmetics has better effects of reducing oil secretion and persistently controlling oil secretion, and has high safety.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing the above-mentioned cosmetic traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth with oil control and acne removing effects.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide the application of the above-mentioned Chinese traditional medicine compound fermentation broth with oil control and acne control effects.
  • a traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth with oil control and acne control effects which is made of the following traditional Chinese medicine components: 5-30 parts of loquat leaves, 5-25 parts of olive leaves, 5-25 parts of wild chrysanthemum, and white grass root 5-20 parts, locust rice 5-20 parts, Sophora flavescens 5-20 parts, Coptis chinensis 5-25 parts, licorice 5-20 parts.
  • the cosmetic traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth with oil-controlling and acne-preventing effects is made of the following traditional Chinese medicine components: 10-20 parts of loquat leaves, 10-15 parts of olive leaves, and 10-12 of wild chrysanthemums 10-15 parts of white grass root, 10-15 parts of locust rice, 10-15 parts of Sophora flavescens, 10-15 parts of Coptis chinensis, and 10-15 parts of licorice.
  • the cosmetic traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth (I) with oil-controlling and acne-preventing effects is made of the following Chinese medicine components by weight: 10 parts of loquat leaves, 15 parts of olive leaves, 10 parts of wild chrysanthemum, white There are 10 grass roots, 15 locust rice, 15 sophora flavescens, 10 Coptis chinensis, and 15 licorice roots.
  • the cosmetic traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth (II) with oil-controlling and acne-preventing effects is made of the following traditional Chinese medicine components: 15 parts of loquat leaves, 10 parts of olive leaves, 12 parts of wild chrysanthemums, white There were 12 grass roots, 11 locust rice, 15 sophora flavescens, 12 Coptis chinensis, and 13 licorice roots.
  • the cosmetic traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth (III) with oil-controlling and acne-preventing effects is made of the following traditional Chinese medicine components: 20 parts of loquat leaves, 10 parts of olive leaves, 10 parts of wild chrysanthemums, white There are 15 grass roots, 10 locust rice, 10 sophora flavescens, 15 Coptis chinensis, and 10 licorice roots.
  • the compound bacteria used in the fermentation are Lactobacillus plantarum and Saccharomyces cerevisiae;
  • the compound bacteria comprise Lactobacillus plantarum and Saccharomyces cerevisiae in a ratio (1 to 6): 1, and the concentration of the compound bacteria liquid is 10 6 to 10 8 cfu / mL.
  • a second object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing the above-mentioned cosmetic traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth with oil control and acne removing effects.
  • the present invention adopts a fermentation extraction method, that is, after the Chinese medicine compound mixture is subjected to fermentation treatment, and then filtered, sterilized, and centrifuged to obtain the Chinese medicine compound fermentation liquid. It includes the following steps:
  • the compound bacteria is added in the form of a bacterial liquid, which is composed of Lactobacillus plantarum and Saccharomyces cerevisiae in a ratio (1 to 6): 1, and the concentration of the composite bacterial liquid is 10 6 to 10 8 cfu / mL;
  • the obtained fermentation broth is filtered, and the filtrate is autoclaved at a temperature of 105 to 120 ° C for 20 to 35 minutes to inactivate the bacteria; the sterilized fermentation filtrate is 3000 to 8000 r / min and the centrifuge radius is 5 to Centrifuge at 20 cm for 20 to 35 min, discard the precipitate, collect the supernatant, concentrate with a membrane, and concentrate the concentrated solution with a macroporous resin, and then elute multiple times with ethanol with a volume fraction of 10 to 95%, and collect the eluate.
  • the membrane is concentrated to a concentrated solution of the same weight as the Chinese traditional medicine compound mixture, and then added with butylene glycol of the same weight as the concentrated solution to dissolve, and then filtered, which is a cosmetic traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation liquid with oil control and acne removing effect.
  • the composite bacterial solution in step 1 is composed of Lactobacillus plantarum and Saccharomyces cerevisiae in a ratio of 3: 1;
  • step 2 it is crushed to 80 mesh.
  • step (3) fermentation is performed at 30 to 35 ° C. and 100 r / min for 40 hours to obtain a fermentation broth;
  • the usage ratio of the compound bacterial liquid, the traditional Chinese medicine compound mixture and water is 20mL-60mL: 20g-60g: 200-600g.
  • the usage ratio of the compound bacterial liquid, the traditional Chinese medicine compound mixture and water is 35 mL to 45 mL: 35 g to 50 g: 300 to 400 g.
  • the usage ratio of the traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth (I), the compound bacterial liquid, the traditional Chinese medicine compound mixture and water is 40 mL: 40 g: 300 g.
  • the dosage ratio of the traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth (II), compound bacteria liquid, traditional Chinese medicine compound mixture and water is 45mL: 50g: 400g.
  • the usage ratio of the traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth (III), compound bacteria liquid, traditional Chinese medicine compound mixture and water is 35mL: 35g: 300g.
  • the centrifugal radius described in step 4 is 8-12 cm.
  • the filtrate is autoclaved at a temperature of 105 to 120 ° C for 30 minutes to inactivate the bacteria; the sterilized fermentation filtrate is centrifuged at 4000 r / min and a centrifugation radius of 10 cm for 30 minutes and discarded. Precipitate and collect the supernatant.
  • a third object of the present invention is to apply the Chinese herbal compound fermentation broth for cosmetics with oil-controlling and acne-removing effects to cosmetics, and provide a cosmetic product with oil-controlling and acne-removing effects.
  • the present invention adopts the following technical solutions:
  • the present invention also provides a cosmetic with oil-controlling and acne-removing effects, which contains the above-mentioned traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth for oil-controlling and acne-removing functions.
  • the cosmetic contains the aforementioned traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth with an oil control and acne removing effect of 0.1 to 20% by mass fraction.
  • the cosmetics are: water, emulsion, cream, gel, powder, powder molding, facial mask, spray, essence, and cleaning.
  • the present invention provides an oil control acne toner, which includes the following components in a mass fraction meter:
  • the present invention provides an oil control acne skin care lotion, comprising the following components in a mass fraction meter:
  • the present invention provides an oil control acne mask, which includes the following components in a mass fraction meter:
  • the mechanism of the invention is:
  • TCM believes that good skin requires not only external modification, but also the health of the skin from the inside out.
  • TCM believes that the formation of acne is mostly caused by blood heat, blood deficiency, wind dryness, heat toxicity, and humidity, so the common methods for treating acne are starting from removing heat, removing poison, and removing dampness.
  • the invention is based on the traditional Chinese medicine princes and envoys theory as a guide, using loquat leaf as the monarch medicine.
  • Loquat leaf has the functions of clearing heat and detoxifying, reducing phlegm and relieving cough, and at the same time has good antibacterial and controlling oil secretion effects.
  • Medicine, wild chrysanthemum has the functions of clearing heat and detoxifying, dredging wind and dissipating heat, dissipating blood stasis, white grass root has the functions of cooling blood to stop bleeding, clearing heat and diuresis, and Huai Mi has the functions of cooling blood to stop bleeding, clearing liver and reducing fire, and has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects;
  • Olive leaf and Coptis chinensis are adjuvants together.
  • Sophora flavescens has heat-clearing and damp-drying, insecticidal, diuretic effects and good antibacterial effect.
  • Olive leaf has broad-spectrum antibacterial and good antioxidant effects.
  • Antibacterial effect; Glycyrrhiza uralensis has the functions of clearing heat and detoxifying, anti-inflammatory, and anti-free radical, and has the function of reconciling various drugs.
  • the combined use of the above medicines strengthens the body and nourishes the condition, and eliminates heat, toxins, and dampness as the basis of acne; with anti-inflammatory, bactericidal, and antioxidant as the anti-pollution standard.
  • the traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth of the invention has very good comprehensive effects of oil control, bacteriostasis, anti-oxidation, etc., and is added to acne cosmetics, and the acne removal effect is remarkable.
  • the present invention has the following advantages and effects:
  • the invention is based on the theory of traditional Chinese medicine and the ambassador, and through the synergy of various traditional Chinese medicines, it achieves the purpose of controlling oil and removing acne from the comprehensive effects of oil control, bacteriostasis and antioxidant.
  • the preparation method of the present invention adopts a fermentation extraction method, that is, after the traditional Chinese medicine compound mixture is subjected to fermentation treatment, and then filtered, sterilized, and centrifuged to obtain the traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth.
  • the traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation liquid can effectively reduce skin oil secretion and remove acne, and has no irritation to the skin. It is used in oil control and acne cosmetics, and has good oil control and acne removal effects.
  • test methods for which no specific experimental conditions are specified in the following examples are generally in accordance with the conventional experimental conditions or the experimental conditions recommended by the manufacturer.
  • Lactobacillus plantarum (Lactobacillus plantarum) used in the examples was purchased from Changzhou Yifangjia Biotechnology Co., Ltd., model NJ2205;
  • Saccharomyces cerevisiae used in the examples was purchased from Guangdong Huankai Microbial Technology Co., Ltd., model ATCC9763;
  • Propionibacterium acne used in the examples was purchased from Guangdong Huankai Microbial Technology Co., Ltd., model GIM1.162.
  • Example 1 A cosmetic traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth with oil control and acne removing effect (I)
  • a Chinese herbal compound fermentation broth with oil control and acne removing effects which is composed of the following Chinese medicine components by weight: 10 parts of loquat leaves, 15 parts of olive leaves, 10 parts of wild chrysanthemums, 10 parts of white grass roots, and 15 of locust Servings, 15 servings of Sophora flavescens, 10 servings of Coptis chinensis, and 15 servings of Licorice.
  • the preparation method is as follows:
  • Compound bacteria are added in the form of a bacterial liquid, which is composed of Lactobacillus plantarum and Saccharomyces cerevisiae in a ratio of 3: 1, and the concentration of the composite bacterial liquid is 10 6 to 10 8 cfu / mL.
  • the obtained fermentation broth is filtered, and the filtrate is autoclaved at a temperature of 105 to 120 ° C for 30 minutes to inactivate the bacteria.
  • the sterilized fermentation filtrate was centrifuged at 4000 r / min and a centrifugal radius of 10 cm for 30 minutes. The precipitate was discarded, and the supernatant was collected and concentrated with a membrane.
  • the concentrated solution was macroporous resin (AB-8 macroporous adsorption resin, purchased (Adapted from Tianjin Prader Biotechnology Co., Ltd.), and then eluted with ethanol with a volume fraction of 10 to 95% for multiple times.
  • the eluate was collected, and the membrane was concentrated to a concentrated solution of the same weight as the traditional Chinese medicine compound mixture, and then added and concentrated.
  • the same weight of butanediol is dissolved and filtered, which is the traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth (I) provided by the present invention.
  • the usage ratio of the compound bacterial liquid, the traditional Chinese medicine compound mixture and water is 40 mL: 40 g: 300 g.
  • a traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth with oil control and acne-preventing effects which is composed of the following Chinese medicine components by weight: 15 parts of loquat leaf, 10 parts of olive leaf, 12 parts of wild chrysanthemum, 12 parts of white grass root, and 11 of locust rice Servings, 15 servings of Sophora flavescens, 12 servings of Coptis chinensis, and 13 servings of Licorice.
  • the preparation method is the same as that in Example 1 except that "the ratio of the compound bacteria liquid, the mixture of the traditional Chinese medicine compound and water is 45mL: 50g: 400g", and the traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth (II) provided by the present invention is prepared.
  • a traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth with oil control and acne-preventing effects which is composed of the following traditional Chinese medicine components by weight: 20 parts of loquat leaves, 10 parts of olive leaves, 10 parts of wild chrysanthemums, 15 parts of white grass roots, and 10 of locust Servings, 10 servings of Sophora flavescens, 15 servings of Coptis chinensis, and 10 servings of Licorice.
  • the preparation method is the same as that in Example 1 except that "the ratio of the compound bacteria liquid, the mixture of the traditional Chinese medicine compound and water is 35mL: 35g: 300g", and the traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth (III) provided by the present invention is prepared.
  • the traditional Chinese medicine compound mixture is made of the following components of Chinese medicinal materials: 10 parts of loquat leaves, 15 parts of olive leaves, 10 parts of wild chrysanthemum, 10 parts of white grass root, and sophora 15 parts, 15 parts of Sophora flavescens, 10 parts of Coptis chinensis, 15 parts of Licorice.
  • Preparation method removing impurities, washing, drying, crushing each Chinese medicine raw material to 100 mesh, adding deionized water according to the liquid-to-mass ratio of 8: 1, soaking for 2.5 hours, and using a high-pressure homogeneous extraction machine at an extraction pressure of 60 MPa Perform extraction at room temperature. After centrifugation, the extract is concentrated with a membrane. The concentrated solution is adsorbed with a macroporous resin, and then eluted with ethanol with a volume fraction of 10 to 95% for several times. The concentrated solution of the same weight was added with butylene glycol of the same weight as the concentrated solution to dissolve it, and then filtered to obtain a traditional Chinese medicine compound extract.
  • a cosmetic traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth with oil control and acne control effect prepared in Example 1 and a single-flavor traditional Chinese medicine fermentation broth prepared in Comparative Examples 1 to 8 and a traditional Chinese medicine compound extract prepared in Comparative Example 9 were formulated to have a mass fraction of 0.5. %, 1.0%, 1.5%, 2.0, 3.0% sample aqueous solution, ready for use.
  • Example 1 The comparison between Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 shows that the traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth prepared by the present invention has a significant inhibitory effect on Propionibacterium acnes, which is much better than the single-flavor traditional Chinese medicine fermentation broth prepared in Comparative Example 8, indicating that the compound recipe Significant synergy between the traditional Chinese medicine components.
  • the bacteriostatic effect of Example 1 was significantly better than that of Comparative Example 9, indicating that the bacteriostatic effect of the traditional Chinese medicine compound mixture was significantly enhanced after fermentation.
  • Sebumeter SM815 was used to test the fat content of the skin. It is based on the principle of photometer. A 0.1mm thick special matting tape absorbs the oil on the human skin, and it will become a translucent tape. Its light transmission will change, the more oil it absorbs , The greater the amount of light transmission, so you can measure the skin oil content.
  • Sebumeter SM815 (Courage + Khazaha, Germany)
  • Test samples # 1 to # 3 include components prepared as shown in Table 2 by mass.
  • step (2) After mixing the raw materials 1,3-butanediol and sodium hyaluronate at normal temperature and stirring them uniformly, add them to the solution obtained in step (1), keep them at 80 ° C for 10 minutes, and stir until homogeneous;
  • Samples # 1 ⁇ # 3 were prepared according to the preparation method, among which # 2 ⁇ # 3 are comparative samples. In addition, a good-selling cosmetic that claims to have oil and acne control effects is selected on the market. The sample is loaded into the sample. In the bottle, the sample labeled # 4 is also used as a comparison sample.
  • test site has not received skin treatment, cosmetology and other tests that may affect the results; no active allergic disease; no highly sensitive person; Those who have not used hormone drugs and immunosuppressants within one month; those who have not participated in other clinical trials in the test site at present or in the last three months.
  • the subjects were randomly divided into 3 groups of 30 each, and the group numbers were recorded as # 1 ⁇ # 2 and # 4.
  • the subjects were allowed to sit still in a laboratory at a temperature of 22 ⁇ 3 ° C and a relative humidity of 50 ⁇ 5% for 30 minutes.
  • the sebmeter SM815 was used to test the skin oil content of the left and right foreheads respectively.
  • the data was recorded as D0.
  • Sample # 3 and Samples of the corresponding number of each group were distributed to each subject, and the subjects were instructed to conduct a trial of half-face comparison.
  • the two samples were applied to the left or right half of the face, and 0.5g of the sample was applied each time, morning and evening. Each time lasted for 28 days, and the skin oil content was tested at the thermostatic laboratory on the 14th and 28th days, and the data was recorded as D14 and D28.
  • Change rate of oil content ⁇ (oil content after using the sample-oil content before using the sample) / oil content before using the sample ⁇ x 100%
  • Rabbit erythrocyte hemolysis test was used to evaluate the irritation of the fermentation broth.
  • the specific operation is as follows: 500 ⁇ L of the fermentation broth prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 are placed in a 2 mL centrifuge tube, and then 500 ⁇ L of a 2% rabbit red blood cell (commercially available) suspension is added, and the mixture is gently shaken and placed in 37 After incubating for 3 hours in a constant temperature incubator at °C, centrifugation at 2000 r / min for 3 minutes, sucking the supernatant, taking the normal saline as the negative control, and using distilled water as the positive control, measuring the absorbance at a wavelength of 414 nm, and calculating the hemolysis according to the formula.
  • Table 4 The results are shown in Table 4.
  • Example 1 The comparison of the experimental results of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 shows that the hemolytic ratio of the traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth of the present invention is much lower than that of the single-flavored traditional Chinese medicine fermentation broth prepared in Comparative Examples 1 to 8, and the irritation of the fermentation broth after the compound Significantly reduced.
  • step (2) After mixing the raw materials 1,3-butanediol and sodium hyaluronate at normal temperature and stirring them uniformly, add them to the solution obtained in step (1), keep them at 80 ° C for 10 minutes, and stir until homogeneous;
  • the specific preparation method is as follows:
  • the raw materials are polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucostearate, glyceryl stearate, isopropyl palmitate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, white pond flower seed oil, polydimethylsiloxane
  • the alkane is mixed and heated to 80 ° C with stirring. After the dissolution is completed, it is quickly added to the solution obtained in step (1) and homogenized at a speed of 3000 rpm for 15 minutes;
  • the preparation method is as follows:
  • step (1) heating and dissolving p-hydroxyacetophenone in 1,3-propanediol and 1,2-hexanediol in advance, and putting it into the solution described in step (1), stirring and dissolving uniformly;
  • Evaluation objects 30 young people aged 15-30 years with acne on their faces were selected, including 15 males and 15 females.
  • Evaluation method Use the double-blind method to apply the face with the oil-control acne mask prepared in Example 3 every morning and evening, and massage the face after removing the mask until all the mask liquid is absorbed by the skin.
  • Evaluation course The evaluation of acne treatment takes 20 days as a course of treatment, the evaluation of oil control effect takes 28 days as a course of treatment, and the stimulation evaluation takes 20 days as a course of treatment.
  • Evaluation criteria for acne effect 1 Significant effect: acne fade more than 70%; 2 effective: acne fade more than 30%; 3 invalid: acne fade less than 30%.
  • Stimulus evaluation criteria Check according to the criteria in Table 8. A total of 20 days of experiments were performed.
  • Results of evaluation of acne effect 15 cases were markedly effective, accounting for 50%; 7 cases were effective, accounting for 23.3%; 8 cases were ineffective, accounting for 26.7%.
  • the total effective rate is 73.3%, which indicates that the traditional Chinese medicine compound fermentation broth has good anti-acne effect.

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Abstract

化妆品用中药复方发酵液，由以下重量份的中药组分制成：枇杷叶5～30份，橄榄叶5～25份，野菊花5～25份，白茅根5～20份，槐米5～20份，苦参5～20份，黄连5～25份，甘草5～20份。

Description

一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液及其制备与应用 技术领域
本发明涉及一种化妆品用中药复方发酵液，具体地是涉及一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液及其制备与应用，属于化妆品领域。
背景技术
皮脂是由皮肤里面的皮脂细胞生成，而被分泌到皮肤表面的油。皮脂分泌过多，会导致皮肤发亮及产生不舒服的触感。油性皮肤的人，皮脂腺的分泌功能比较旺盛，尤其在夏天，人体自身的新陈代谢会加快，体内的汗腺、皮脂腺活动会加强，皮脂的分泌会加多，不但会影响美观，而且过多的皮脂堆积，还容易引发一些皮肤疾病，如痤疮、粉刺等，因此控制过多油脂分泌有一定的必要性。
目前，市面上的控油化妆品有很多，但大都存在功效性及安全性的缺陷：
1.加入吸油粉末成分的控油化妆品：此类控油化妆品主要是采用一些吸油粉末成分，例如二氧化硅、二氧化钛等。这些成分是来自合成成分或矿物成分，除了具有短时降低油脂分泌的能力外，难以具有长期控制油脂分泌的功效，且较容易引发皮肤过敏反应。
2.加入清凉剂的控油化妆品：清凉剂主要为酒精与薄荷，两者都有瞬间收缩毛孔的功效。但这种清凉效果只能治标，也就是说，在很短的时间后收敛效果即会消失，无法有效控制后续冒出的油脂。
3.加入维生素的控油化妆品：此类控油化妆品以维生素作为油脂调理成分，主要对象为因缺乏维生素B6而造成脂漏性皮炎的人，对于患有面疱的油性皮肤，且经常伴随发炎现象的脂漏性油性肤质，选择搭配维生素B6、维生素B3与维生素H的控油产品，较能得到治本的效果。但是，一般油性皮肤的人，使用此类控油化妆品并不一定有效。
发明内容
为了克服现有技术的缺点与不足，本发明的首要目的在于提供一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液。该化妆品用中药复方发酵液具有较好 的降低油脂分泌和持久控制油脂分泌的功效，且具有较高的安全性。
本发明的另一目的在于提供上述一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液的制备方法。
本发明的再一目的在于提供上述一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液的应用。
本发明的目的通过下述技术方案实现：
一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液，由包括以下重量份的中药组分制成：枇杷叶5～30份，橄榄叶5～25份，野菊花5～25份，白茅根5～20份，槐米5～20份，苦参5～20份，黄连5～25份，甘草5～20份。
优选的，所述的具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液，由包括以下重量份的中药组分制成：枇杷叶10～20份，橄榄叶10～15份，野菊花10～12份，白茅根10～15份，槐米10～15份，苦参10～15份，黄连10～15份，甘草10～15份。
优选的，所述的具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液(Ⅰ)，由包括以下重量份的中药组分制成：枇杷叶10份，橄榄叶15份，野菊花10份，白茅根10份，槐米15份，苦参15份，黄连10份，甘草15份。
优选的，所述的具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液(Ⅱ)，由包括以下重量份的中药组分制成：枇杷叶15份，橄榄叶10份，野菊花12份，白茅根12份，槐米11份，苦参15份，黄连12份，甘草13份。
优选的，所述的具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液(Ⅲ)，由包括以下重量份的中药组分制成：枇杷叶20份，橄榄叶10份，野菊花10份，白茅根15份，槐米10份，苦参10份，黄连15份，甘草10份。
优选的，所述的发酵所用的复合菌为植物乳杆菌和酿酒酵母菌；
优选的，所述的复合菌中植物乳杆菌和酿酒酵母菌按比例(1～6)：1组成，复合菌液浓度为10 6～10 8cfu/mL。
本发明的第二目的是提供上述具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液的制备方法。
为了制得所述的发酵液，本发明采用了发酵提取法，即将中药复方混合物进行发酵处理后，再经过滤、灭菌、离心分离得到中药复方发酵液。具体包括如下步骤：
①复合菌是以菌液的形式加入，所述复合菌液为植物乳杆菌和酿酒酵母菌按比例(1～6)：1组成，复合菌液浓度为10 6～10 8cfu/mL；
②备料：将各中药原料除杂、清洗、烘干，粉碎至40～200目，混匀，得到中药复方混合物；配制浓度为10 6～10 8cfu/mL的复合菌液，pH值调整为6.5～7.5；
③发酵：按配比将复合菌液、中药复方混合物和水混合，在28～42℃、50～300r/min条件中发酵36～48小时，得发酵液；
④提纯：将所得发酵液过滤，滤液在105～120℃的温度下高压灭菌20～35min，使菌种失活；将灭菌后的发酵滤液在3000～8000r/min、离心半径为5～20cm的条件下离心20～35min，弃沉淀，收集上清液，用膜浓缩，浓缩液用大孔树脂吸附，再用体积分数为10～95％的乙醇多次洗脱，收集洗脱液，膜浓缩至与中药复方混合物相同重量的浓缩液，再加入与浓缩液相同重量的丁二醇溶解，过滤，即为具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液。
优选的，步骤①中所述复合菌液为植物乳杆菌和酿酒酵母菌按比例3：1组成；
优选的，步骤②中，粉碎至80目。
优选的，步骤③中，在30～35℃、100r/min条件中发酵40小时，得发酵液；
所述的复合菌液、中药复方混合物与水的用量比为20mL～60mL：20g～60g：200～600g。
优选的，所述的复合菌液、中药复方混合物与水的用量比为35mL～45mL：35g～50g：300～400g。
优选的，所述中药复方发酵液(Ⅰ)，复合菌液、中药复方混合物与水的用量比为40mL：40g：300g。
优选的，所述中药复方发酵液(Ⅱ)，复合菌液、中药复方混合物与水的用量比为45mL：50g：400g。
优选的，所述中药复方发酵液(Ⅲ)，复合菌液、中药复方混合物与水的用量比为35mL：35g：300g。
优选的，步骤④中所述的离心半径为8～12cm。
优选的，步骤④中，滤液在105～120℃的温度下高压灭菌30min，使菌种失活；将灭菌后的发酵滤液在4000r/min、离心半径为10cm的条件下离心30min，弃沉淀，收集上清液。
本发明的第三个目的是将该种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液应用于化妆品中，提供一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品。
为了达到本发明的这一目的，本发明采取了如下技术方案：
一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液在制备化妆品中的应用，所述具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液在化妆品中的添加量以质量分数计为0.1～20％。
本发明还提供一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品，该化妆品含有上述具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液。
优选的，该化妆品含有上述以质量分数计为0.1～20％的具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液。
所述的化妆品为：水剂、乳液类、膏霜类、啫喱类、粉类、粉末成型类、面膜、喷雾类、精华类、洗护类。
具体的，本发明提供一种控油祛痘爽肤水，包括如下质量分数计的组分：
原料名称 质量分数/％
去离子水 加至100
EDTA‐2Na 0.02
甘油 5
泛醇 0.2
1,3‐丁二醇 5
透明质酸钠 0.05
防腐剂 适量
本发明所述的中药复方发酵液 5
香精 适量
具体的，本发明提供一种控油祛痘护肤乳，包括如下质量分数计的组分：
原料名称 质量分数/％
聚甘油‐3甲基葡糖二硬脂酸酯 1.4
甘油硬脂酸酯 0.8
棕榈酸异丙酯 1.5
辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯 4
白池花籽油 4
聚二甲基硅氧烷 1
去离子水 加至100
EDTA‐2Na 0.02
甘油 3
1,3‐丁二醇 5
卡波姆(CA) 0.15
氨甲基丙醇 0.09
防腐剂 适量
本发明所述的中药复方发酵液 5
香精 适量
具体的，本发明提供一种控油祛痘面膜，包括如下质量分数计的组分：
组分 质量分数/％
本发明的中药复方发酵液 5
甘油 5.00
1,3‐丙二醇 5.00
透明质酸钠 0.10
黄原胶 0.10
羟乙基纤维素 0.12
甘草酸二钾 0.60
芦荟提取物 1.20
1,2‐己二醇 0.80
对羟基苯乙酮 0.40
去离子水 余量
本发明的机理是：
中医美容理念认为，好的皮肤不仅需要外部的修饰，更重要的是肌肤从内而外的健康。中医认为座疮形成多因血热、血虚风燥、热毒、湿等导致，所以治疗痘痘常用方法也是从祛热、祛毒、祛湿着手。
本发明以中医君臣佐使理论为指导进行组方，以枇杷叶为君药，枇杷叶具有清热解毒、化痰止咳的功效，同时具有良好抗菌、控制油脂分泌作用；野菊花、白茅根、槐米共同为臣药，野菊花具有清热解毒、疏风散热、散瘀功效，白茅根具有凉血止血、清热利尿功效，槐米具有凉血止血、清肝降火功效和抗炎、抗氧化作用；苦参、橄榄叶和黄连共同为佐药，苦参具有清热燥湿、杀虫、利尿功效和良好抗菌作用，橄榄叶具有广谱抗菌作用和良好抗氧化作用，黄连清热燥湿，泻火解毒功效和良好抗菌作用；甘草为使药，具有清热解毒、抗炎、抗自由基等功效，具有调和诸药的作用。以上诸药合用，强本固元，滋养调理，以祛热、祛毒、祛湿为祛痘之本；以抗炎、杀菌、抗氧化为抗污染之标。本发明的中药复方发酵液具有非常好的控油、抑菌、抗氧化等综合功效，添加于祛痘化妆品中，祛痘功效显著。
本发明相对于现有技术具有如下的优点及效果：
本发明以中医君臣佐使理论为指导进行组方，通过多种中药协同作用，从控油、抑菌、抗氧化等综合功效方面达到控油和祛痘的目的。本发明的制备方法采用了发酵提取法，即将中药复方混合物进行发酵处理后，再经过滤、灭菌、离心分离得到中药复方发酵液。本发明的中药复方发酵液，可有效降低皮肤油脂分泌和去除青春痘，且对皮肤安全无刺激，用于控油和祛痘化妆品中，具有良好的控油和祛痘功效。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例对本发明作进一步详细的描述，但本发明的实施方式不限于此。
下列实施例中未注明具体实验条件的试验方法，通常按照常规实验条件或按照制造厂所建议的实验条件。
实施例中所用的植物乳杆菌(Lactobacillus plantarum)，购自常州益菌加生物科技有限公司，型号NJ2205；
实施例中所用的酿酒酵母菌(Saccharomyces cerevisiae)，购自广东环凯微生物科技有限公司，型号ATCC9763；
实施例中所用的痤疮丙酸杆菌(Propionibacterium acnes)，购自广东环凯微生物科技有限公司，型号GIM1.162。
实施例1一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液(Ⅰ)
一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液，由包括以下重量份的中药组分制成：枇杷叶10份，橄榄叶15份，野菊花10份，白茅根10份，槐米15份，苦参15份，黄连10份，甘草15份。
制备方法如下：
①复合菌是以菌液的形式加入，所述复合菌液为植物乳杆菌和酿酒酵母菌按比例3：1组成，复合菌液浓度为10 6～10 8cfu/mL。
②备料：将各中药原料除杂、清洗、烘干，粉碎至80目，混匀，得到中药复方混合物；配制浓度为10 6～10 8cfu/mL的复合菌液，pH值调整为6.5～7.5。
③发酵：按配比将复合菌液、中药复方混合物和水混合，在30～35℃、100r/min的摇床中发酵40小时，得发酵液。
④提纯：将所得发酵液过滤，滤液在105～120℃的温度下高压灭菌30min， 使菌种失活。将灭菌后的发酵滤液在4000r/min、离心半径为10cm的条件下离心30min，弃沉淀，收集上清液，用膜浓缩，浓缩液用大孔树脂(AB‐8大孔吸附树脂，购自天津普拉德生物科技有限公司)吸附，再用体积分数为10～95％的乙醇多次洗脱，收集洗脱液，膜浓缩至与中药复方混合物相同重量的浓缩液，再加入与浓缩液相同重量的丁二醇溶解，过滤，即为本发明提供的中药复方发酵液(Ⅰ)。
所述的复合菌液、中药复方混合物与水的用量比为40mL：40g：300g。
实施例2一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液(Ⅱ)
一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液，由包括以下重量份的中药组分制成：枇杷叶15份，橄榄叶10份，野菊花12份，白茅根12份，槐米11份，苦参15份，黄连12份，甘草13份。
制备方法除了“复合菌液、中药复方混合物与水的用量比为45mL：50g：400g”外，其余与实施例1一致，制得本发明提供的中药复方发酵液(Ⅱ)。
实施例3一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液(Ⅲ)
一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液，由包括以下重量份的中药组分制成：枇杷叶20份，橄榄叶10份，野菊花10份，白茅根15份，槐米10份，苦参10份，黄连15份，甘草10份。
制备方法除了“复合菌液、中药复方混合物与水的用量比为35mL：35g：300g”外，其余与实施例1一致，制得本发明提供的中药复方发酵液(Ⅲ)。
对比例1～8单味中药发酵液
分别称取中药枇杷叶100份，橄榄叶100份，野菊花100份，白茅根100份，槐米100份，苦参100份，黄连100份，甘草100份。按照实施例1所述的制备方法进行发酵提取，依次分别制得单味中药发酵液。
对比例9中药复方提取液
按照与实施例1一致的中药复方混合物用量，即中药复方混合物由包括以下重量的中药材组分制成：枇杷叶10份，橄榄叶15份，野菊花10份，白茅根10份，槐米15份，苦参15份，黄连10份，甘草15份。
制备方法：将各中药原料除杂、清洗、烘干，粉碎至100目，按液料质量 比为8:1加入去离子水，浸泡2.5h后，在60MPa提取压力下用高压均质提取机进行常温提取，提取液经离心分离后，用膜浓缩，浓缩液用大孔树脂吸附，再用体积分数为10～95％的乙醇多次洗脱，收集洗脱液，膜浓缩至与中药相同重量的浓缩液，再加入与浓缩液相同重量的丁二醇溶解，过滤，制得中药复方提取液。
试验例1抑制痤疮丙酸杆菌功效评价
1、中药提取物样品的配制
将实施例1制备的一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液和对比例1～8制备的单味中药发酵液、对比例9制备的中药复方提取液均配制为质量分数为0.5％、1.0％、1.5％、2.0、3.0％的样品水溶液，备用。
2、对痤疮丙酸杆菌抑制能力的测试方法
各取10种样品水溶液1mL分别加到无菌玻璃试管中，分别倾倒8mL预先制备的改良GAM肉汤培养基(日本Nissui，编号ZZM‐05433)。取出已分纯并在35℃恒温CO 2培养箱培养48h的临床痤疮丙酸杆菌，分别取1mL菌悬液注入已加样品水溶液的改良GAM肉汤培养基试管中，以一个不含菌悬液的玻璃试管做阴性对照。每种样品培养基均从低浓度开始，依次接种痤疮丙酸杆菌，接种后尽快置于35℃恒温CO 2培养箱培养48h。培养后，先抽取改良GAM肉汤培养基中的液体进行初步验证实验，再通过VITEK全自动微生物分析系统、ANI厌氧菌鉴定卡确定痤疮丙酸杆菌的杀灭情况，结果如下表1所示。
表1痤疮丙酸杆菌的杀灭情况
Figure PCTCN2018099357-appb-000001
实施例1与对比例1～8对比结果表明，本发明制备的中药复方发酵液对痤疮丙酸杆菌有明显抑制效果，比对比例8制备的单味中药发酵液效果好得多，说明经过复方后中药组分间协同作用显著。另外，实施例1的抑菌效果明显优于对比例9，说明中药复方混合物经过发酵后，抑菌功效得到明显增强。
试验例2控油功效评价实验
1、试验原理
采用油脂测试仪Sebumeter SM815测试皮肤的油脂含量。它是基于光度计原理，一种0.1mm厚的特殊消光胶带吸收人体皮肤上的油脂后，就会变成一种半透明的胶带，它的透光量就会发生变化，吸收的油脂越多，透光量就会越大，这样就可以测量出皮肤油脂的含量。
2、试验仪器：
Sebumeter SM815(德国Courage+Khazaha公司)
3、试验样品
试验样品#1～#3包括如表2质量百分比的组分制备。
表2试验样品#1～#3的组分
原料名称 #1 #2 #3
去离子水 余量 余量 余量
EDTA‐2Na 0.02％ 0.02％ 0.02％
甘油 5％ 5％ 5％
泛醇 0.2％ 0.2％ 0.2％
1,3‐丁二醇 8％ 8％ 8％
透明质酸钠 0.05％ 0.05％ 0.05％
防腐剂 适量 适量 适量
实施例1所述的发酵液 5％ / /
对比例9所述的提取液 / 5％ /
其制备方法如下：
(1)将原料去离子水，EDTA‐2Na，甘油，泛醇混合搅拌并加热至80℃，搅拌至透明溶解完全；
(2)将原料1,3‐丁二醇，透明质酸钠在常温下混合并搅拌均匀后，加入到步骤(1)所得的溶液中，80℃保温10分钟，搅拌至均匀；
(3)搅拌降温至45℃，加入剩余原料，搅拌均匀；
(4)真空脱泡，38℃以下出料，料体为水溶液。
按制备方法分别制得#1～#3样品，其中#2～#3为对比样品，另外，在市面上挑选一款销量较好的且宣称具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品，料体装入样品瓶中，标为#4样品，同样作为对比样品。
4、试验对象
1.年龄在20～40岁的油性皮肤志愿者共180名；
2.无严重系统疾病、无免疫缺陷或自身免疫性疾病者，受试部位没有接受过皮肤治疗、美容以及其他可能影响结果的测试；无活动性过敏性疾病者；无体质高度敏感者；近一月内未曾使用激素类药物及免疫抑制剂者；现在或最近三个月受试部位未参加其他临床试验者。
5、试验方法
将受试者随机分成3组，每组30名，组别编号记为#1～#2、#4。受试者在温度22±3℃，相对湿度50±5％的实验室内静坐30分钟，用油脂测试仪Sebumeter SM815分别测试左右额头的皮肤油脂含量，记为D0的数据，将样品#3及各组对应编号的样品分发给每个受试者，并指导受试者进行半脸对比试用，将两种样品分别涂抹使用于左半脸或右半脸，一次各涂抹样品0.5g，每天早晚各一次，持续28天，并分别在第14天和第28天回恒温实验室测试皮肤油脂含量，数据记为D14和D28。按如下公式分别计算出D14和D28的油脂含量变化率：
油脂含量变化率＝{(使用样品后油脂含量‐使用样品前油脂含量)/使用样品前油脂含量}×100％
(4)实验结果：
结果如表3所示。
表3油脂含量变化率
测试样品 D14油脂变化率(％) D28油脂变化率(％)
样品#1 ‐23.9％ ‐39.6％
样品#2 ‐17.4 ‐29.6％
样品#4 ‐12.5％ ‐20.3％
结果显示，使用添加了本发明中实施例1制备的发酵液的实验样品#1，14天时，皮肤油脂含量明显下降，持续使用28天后，效果更加明显，而持续使用含对比例9的提取液制备的实验样品#2，控油效果明显不如样品#1，说明经过发酵后中药复方祛痘功效得到了显著增强。而且样品#1、#2的控油效果比样品#4强得多，说明本发明的中药复方具有显著的控油效果。
试验例3刺激性评价实验
采用兔红细胞溶血实验评价发酵液刺激性。具体操作如下：分别取实施例1和对比例1～8制备的发酵液500μL置于2mL离心管中，再分别加入2％兔红细胞(市售)悬液500μL，轻摇混匀，置于37℃恒温培养箱中温育3h后，2000r/min离心3min，吸取上清液，以生理盐水为阴性对照，以蒸馏水为阳性对照，在波长414nm处测定吸光值，按公式计算溶血度。结果如表4所示。
表4溶血度结果
Figure PCTCN2018099357-appb-000002
实施例1与对比例1～8实验结果对比表明，本发明的中药复方发酵液溶血比例比对比例1～8制得的单味中药的发酵液低得多，经过复方后发酵液的刺激性显著降低。
应用实施例1控油祛痘爽肤水
含有一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液的控油祛痘爽肤水，配方见表5所示。
表5控油祛痘爽肤水配方
原料名称 质量分数/％
去离子水 加至100
EDTA‐2Na 0.02
甘油 5
泛醇 0.2
1,3‐丁二醇 5
透明质酸钠 0.05
防腐剂 适量
本发明所述的中药复方发酵液(Ⅰ) 5
香精 适量
其制备方法如下：
(1)将原料去离子水，EDTA‐2Na，甘油，泛醇混合搅拌并加热至80℃，搅拌至透明溶解完全；
(2)将原料1,3‐丁二醇，透明质酸钠在常温下混合并搅拌均匀后，加入到步骤(1)所得的溶液中，80℃保温10分钟，搅拌至均匀；
(3)搅拌降温至45℃，加入剩余原料，搅拌均匀；
(4)真空脱泡，38℃以下出料，料体为水溶液。
应用实施例2控油祛痘护肤乳
含有一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液的控油祛痘护肤乳，配方见表6所示。
表6控油祛痘护肤乳配方
原料名称 质量分数/％
聚甘油‐3甲基葡糖二硬脂酸酯 1.4
甘油硬脂酸酯 0.8
棕榈酸异丙酯 1.5
辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯 4
白池花籽油 4
聚二甲基硅氧烷 1
去离子水 加至100
EDTA‐2Na 0.02
甘油 3
1,3‐丁二醇 5
卡波姆(CA) 0.15
氨甲基丙醇 0.09
防腐剂 适量
本发明所述的中药复方发酵液(Ⅰ) 5
香精 适量
具体制备方法如下：
(1)将原料去离子水，EDTA‐2Na，甘油，1,3‐丁二醇，卡波姆(CA)混合搅拌加热至80℃，保温待用；
(2)将原料聚甘油‐3甲基葡糖二硬脂酸酯，甘油硬脂酸酯，棕榈酸异丙酯， 辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯，白池花籽油，聚二甲基硅氧烷混合并搅拌加热至80℃，至溶解完全后，快速加入到步骤(1)所得的溶液中，以3000转/分钟的速度均质15分钟；
(3)降温至45℃时，加入剩余原料，搅拌均匀；
(4)降至38℃时真空脱泡出料，料体为乳状液。
应用实施例3控油祛痘面膜
一种含本发明的中药复方发酵液的控油祛痘面膜配方见表7。
表7控油祛痘面膜配方
组分 质量分数/％
本发明的中药复方发酵液(Ⅰ) 5
甘油 5.00
1,3‐丙二醇 5.00
透明质酸钠 0.10
黄原胶 0.10
羟乙基纤维素 0.12
甘草酸二钾 0.60
芦荟提取物 1.20
1,2‐己二醇 0.80
对羟基苯乙酮 0.40
去离子水 余量
制备方法如下：
(1)将黄原胶和透明质酸钠在甘油中预先分散，然后和甘草酸二钾、羟乙基纤维素、中药复方发酵液(Ⅰ)一起投入到去离子水中，搅拌溶解至分散均匀透明；
(2)预先将对羟基苯乙酮在1,3‐丙二醇和1,2‐己二醇中加热溶解，投入至步骤(1)所述的溶液中，搅拌溶解均匀；
(3)再将芦荟提取物投入，搅拌均匀至完全溶解；
(4)检验颜色、pH、香味，外观等理化指标，检验合格后200目过滤出料。
效果实施例1祛痘效果、控油效果和皮肤刺激性评价
评价对象：选择面部有痤疮、年龄为15～30岁的年轻人30例，其中男性15例，女性15例。
评价方法：采用双盲法，每天早晚用应用实施例3制备的控油祛痘面膜敷脸，取下面膜后按摩脸部直至面膜液全部被皮肤吸收。
评价疗程：祛痘效果评价以20天为一个疗程，控油效果评价以28天为一个疗程，刺激性评价以20天为一个疗程。
祛痘效果评价标准：①显效：痤疮消褪70％以上；②有效：痤疮消褪30％以上；③无效：痤疮消褪30％以下。
控油效果评价标准：试验方法与试验例2所述一致。
刺激性评价标准：按照表8标准进行检查。共进行了20天实验。
表8刺激性评价标准
等级 鉴定标准
0 阴性反应：无刺激、无红斑
1 可疑反应：轻度红斑
2 弱阳性反应：红斑
3 强阳性反应：红斑、丘疹、水疱
4 极强阳性反应：严重浮肿、大泡
祛痘效果评价结果：显效15例，占50％；有效7例，占23.3％；无效8例，占26.7％。总有效率达到73.3％，说明本发明中药复方发酵液具有良好的祛痘效果。
控油效果评价结果：28天后志愿者皮肤油脂减少率为41.6％，说明应用实施例3制备的控油祛痘面膜具有良好的控油效果。
刺激性评价结果：在所有志愿者中未发现过敏现象。
上述实施例为本发明较佳的实施方式，但本发明的实施方式并不受上述实施例的限制，其他的任何未背离本发明的精神实质与原理下所作的改变、修饰、替代、组合、简化，均应为等效的置换方式，都包含在本发明的保护范围之内。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液，其特征在于：所述的化妆品用中药复方发酵液由包括以下重量份的中药组分制成：枇杷叶5～30份，橄榄叶5～25份，野菊花5～25份，白茅根5～20份，槐米5～20份，苦参5～20份，黄连5～25份，甘草5～20份。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液，其特征在于：
    所述的具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液，由包括以下重量份的中药组分制成：枇杷叶10～20份，橄榄叶10～15份，野菊花10～12份，白茅根10～15份，槐米10～15份，苦参10～15份，黄连10～15份，甘草10～15份。
  3. 根据权利要求1或2所述的具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液，其特征在于：所述的发酵所用的复合菌为植物乳杆菌和酿酒酵母菌；
    所述的复合菌中植物乳杆菌和酿酒酵母菌按比例(1～6)：1组成，复合菌液浓度为10 6～10 8cfu/mL。
  4. 权利要求1～3任一项所述的具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液的制备方法，其特征在于：
    采用了发酵提取法，即将中药复方混合物进行发酵处理后，再经过滤、灭菌、离心分离得到中药复方发酵液；
    具体包括如下步骤：
    ①复合菌是以菌液的形式加入，所述复合菌液为植物乳杆菌和酿酒酵母菌按比例(1～6)：1组成，复合菌液浓度为10 6～10 8cfu/mL；
    ②备料：将各中药原料除杂、清洗、烘干，粉碎至40～200目，混匀，得到中药复方混合物；配制浓度为10 6～10 8cfu/mL的复合菌液，pH值调整为6.5～7.5；
    ③发酵：按配比将复合菌液、中药复方混合物和水混合，在28～42℃、50～300r/min条件中发酵36～48小时，得发酵液；
    ④提纯：将所得发酵液过滤，滤液在105～120℃的温度下高压灭菌20～35min，使菌种失活；将灭菌后的发酵滤液在3000～8000r/min、离心半径为5～20cm的条件下离心20～35min，弃沉淀，收集上清液，用膜浓缩，浓缩液用大孔树脂吸附，再用体积分数为10～95％的乙醇多次洗脱，收集洗脱液，膜浓缩 至与中药复方混合物相同重量的浓缩液，再加入与浓缩液相同重量的丁二醇溶解，过滤，即为具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液。
  5. 根据权利要求4所述的具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液的制备方法，其特征在于：
    所述的复合菌液、中药复方混合物与水的用量比为20mL～60mL：20g～60g：200～600g；
    步骤①中所述复合菌液为植物乳杆菌和酿酒酵母菌按比例3：1组成；
    步骤③中，在30～35℃、100r/min条件中发酵40小时，得发酵液。
  6. 权利要求1～3任一项所述的具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液在制备化妆品中的应用。
  7. 根据权利要求6所述的应用，其特征在于：
    所述的具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液在化妆品中的添加量以质量分数计为0.1～20％。
  8. 一种具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品，其特征在于：含有权利要求1～3任一项所述的具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液。
  9. 根据权利要求8所述的具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品，其特征在于：
    所述化妆品含有以质量分数计为0.1～20％的具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品用中药复方发酵液；
    所述的化妆品为：水剂、乳液类、膏霜类、啫喱类、粉类、粉末成型类、面膜、喷雾类、精华类、洗护类。
  10. 根据权利要求8或9所述的具有控油祛痘功效的化妆品，其特征在于：
    所述的化妆品为控油祛痘爽肤水，包括如下质量分数计的组分：
    Figure PCTCN2018099357-appb-100001
    所述的化妆品为控油祛痘护肤乳，包括如下质量分数计的组分：
    Figure PCTCN2018099357-appb-100002
    所述的化妆品为控油祛痘面膜，包括如下质量分数计的组分：
    Figure PCTCN2018099357-appb-100003
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