WO2019045483A2 - Composition cosmétique comprenant un extrait de centella asiatica ou un triterpène dérivé de celui-ci à haute teneur et un procédé pour le produire - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant un extrait de centella asiatica ou un triterpène dérivé de celui-ci à haute teneur et un procédé pour le produire Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019045483A2
WO2019045483A2 PCT/KR2018/010057 KR2018010057W WO2019045483A2 WO 2019045483 A2 WO2019045483 A2 WO 2019045483A2 KR 2018010057 W KR2018010057 W KR 2018010057W WO 2019045483 A2 WO2019045483 A2 WO 2019045483A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
extract
centella asiatica
weight
water
mixture
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Application number
PCT/KR2018/010057
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English (en)
Korean (ko)
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WO2019045483A3 (fr
Inventor
한재일
Original Assignee
주식회사 아모레퍼시픽
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Priority claimed from KR1020180099138A external-priority patent/KR20190024734A/ko
Application filed by 주식회사 아모레퍼시픽 filed Critical 주식회사 아모레퍼시픽
Publication of WO2019045483A2 publication Critical patent/WO2019045483A2/fr
Publication of WO2019045483A3 publication Critical patent/WO2019045483A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/185—Acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof, e.g. sulfur acids, imidic, hydrazonic or hydroximic acids
    • A61K31/19—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid
    • A61K31/192—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid having aromatic groups, e.g. sulindac, 2-aryl-propionic acids, ethacrynic acid 
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing a large amount of Centella asiatica selec.
  • Triterpene which is a poorly soluble plant extract component, or Centella asiatica selec.
  • Triterpene derived from centella asiatica extract More particularly, (O / W) which can contain tritaper in a high amount and stably in a high concentration and can stably contain Triticum annuum extract-derived tritaper, by dispersing triterpenes with specific polymer polyols at a high temperature, To a cosmetic composition.
  • Triterpene which is a plant extract component or Centella asiatica selec. Triterpene derived from it, has excellent functions such as anti-inflammation, soothing, antibacterial, scar relaxation, promotion of collagen production and whitening effect. .
  • tritaperpenes derived from the centilla sp. Extract are generally poorly soluble in water and have low solubility in oil. Therefore, it is difficult to uniformly disperse in cosmetics, especially in oil-in-water cosmetics, There is a great restriction on the use of a high content due to precipitation by the skin,
  • the present invention relates to a method for stabilizing a large amount of centella ash extract or a triterpene derived therefrom in an aquatic-type cosmetic formulation, comprising the steps of subjecting to an additional pulverizing step in the manufacturing process or adding an excessive amount of stimulating substance such as ethanol, PEG surfactant,
  • an additional pulverizing step in the manufacturing process or adding an excessive amount of stimulating substance such as ethanol, PEG surfactant
  • a method for producing a cosmetic composition containing a centistallophylla extract or tallpox extract-derived tritanthrene in a high content and stably without using any formulations and the like and to provide an underwater-type cosmetic composition prepared by such a method Purpose .
  • the present invention provides an underwater type cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase and an oil phase, wherein 0.05 to 2.0% by weight of a centistallophylla extract or tritaper Thereby providing a cosmetic composition.
  • the present invention is C 3 as the active ingredient for in the production of in-water type cosmetic composition and / or cosmetics containing high Centella asiatica Urban extract, or Centella asiatica Urban extract derived triterpene, can stabilize the Centella asiatica Urban extract, or Centella asiatica Urban extract derived triterpene the upper A mixture of a trivalent alcohol of -C 6 , a divalent alcohol of C 2 -C 5 and a divalent alcohol of C 6 -C 10 .
  • preparing a water-in-oil cosmetic composition composition comprising an aqueous-type cosmetic composition comprising a third mixture, more precisely, a method for stabilizing a tricerpene from a centipede extract or a centipede extract from a top portion thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can provide a high content and stable content of the centilla extract or tricterpene derived from the centilla spp. Extract, without giving any stimulation to the skin, And it is possible to provide satisfaction and relief by solving the anxiety of consumers about toxic chemicals in cosmetics.
  • the manufacturing method according to the present invention is characterized in that, unlike cosmetic formulations utilizing tricorder, derived from Centella asiatica extract and / or Centella asiatica extract, the extracts of Centella asiatica And can stably provide an underwater type cosmetic composition.
  • FIG. 3 is a photograph showing the dispersion state of the compositions of the examples and comparative examples according to the present invention, : Example 1; Fig. 3b: Example 2; Fig. 3c: Example 3) (unit of scale: 10 ⁇ ⁇ ).
  • volume, time (period), concentration, volume (content, etc.), area, temperature, etc. has a tolerance of up to 10%, typically 5% It means that it exists.
  • the units "%" used to denote the concentration of a particular substance throughout this specification are percentages by weight of solids / solids (weight / weight) And the liquid / liquid is (volume / volume)%.
  • An aspect of the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition which stably contains a high amount of centella as an extract or tritaeniorhana extract derived from centipede.
  • the present invention relates to an underwater-type cosmetic composition
  • an underwater-type cosmetic composition comprising a water-in-oil and an oil-in-water composition, wherein a high content of centilla sp.
  • centistallium extract or centrilobular extract derived from centistocellular extract is used in an amount of 0.05 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition constituting the cosmetic composition, By weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 2.0% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 2.0% by weight, with precipitation of at least 6 months, preferably at least 12 months, more preferably at least 18 months, It means that the problem such as discoloration does not occur.
  • centilla extracts used in the present invention may be prepared by a general method known in the art, or commercially available ones may be used.
  • Tritterpen derived from Centaurea tumefaciens extract means a triterpene obtained by isolating and / or purifying from a Centaurea or Centella asiatica extract, and may be manufactured using conventional extraction methods or commercially available .
  • T. terpenes derived from Centaurea or Centella asiatica extracts are used in conventional cosmetics in the form of an alcoholic solvent (e.g., ethanol), an amine-based pH adjusting agent (e.g., ethanolamine (For example, sorbitan isostearate (SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE)), a PEG-based surfactant (e.g., PEG-100 stearate, PEG 40 stearate and the like), other harmful surfactants BEHENETH-based surfactants such as BEHENETH-5, BEHENETH-10, BEHENETH-20 and BEHENETH-25 and steareth surfactants such as Steareth-2 and Steareth- -20, Steareth-21, Steareth-25, Steareth-27, Steareth-30, Steareth-40, Steareth-50, Steareth-80, Steareth-100, Steareth-200), the PEG surfactant and / Without moisturizers or thickeners containing surfactants, Type cosmetic
  • the water phase can be used by mixing three kinds of polyhydric alcohol components in order to stabilize T. terpenes derived from Centella asiatica or Centella asiatica (composition total weight):
  • the C 3 -C 6 trihydric alcohol as the a component is preferably glycerin.
  • the centilla annulus extract or Triticum annulare extract-derived tritaper can not be sufficiently dispersed in the water, and when it is more than 37.5 wt%, it becomes too sticky, The attractiveness as a product is low.
  • the emulsifying agent dispersed in the water does not act sufficiently to lower the stability of emulsification, and excessive surfactant or emulsion stabilizer should be used in the oil phase, thereby reducing skin safety.
  • the divalent alcohol of C 2 -C 5 as the component b is preferably butylene glycol or propanediol.
  • the C 2 -C 5 divalent alcohol is less than 5.0% by weight, the centilla annulus extract or the trita flower extract derived from the centistallos extract can not be sufficiently dispersed in the water, and when it is more than 37.5% by weight, The attractiveness as a product is low.
  • the emulsifying agent dispersed in the water does not act sufficiently to lower the stability of emulsification, and excessive surfactant or emulsion stabilizer should be used in the oil phase, thereby reducing skin safety.
  • the C 6 -C 10 divalent alcohol is preferably hexanediol.
  • the centilla annulus extract or tritaeniorhana extract derived from the centistalles extract can not be sufficiently dispersed in the water, and when it exceeds 3.25% by weight, skin irritation may be caused, There is a risk that the viscosity of the emulsion is lowered by lowering the viscosity.
  • the water phase part does not contain an alcoholic solvent such as ethanol, an amine-based pH adjusting agent such as ethanolamine for stabilizing T. terpenes derived from Centaurea or Centella asiatica.
  • the water-pervious portion contains 78 wt% to 90 wt%, preferably 80.5 wt% to 88.5 wt%, more preferably 83.0 wt% To 88.0% by weight.
  • the oily portion of the cosmetic composition for underwater type according to the present invention can be prepared by appropriately selecting and adjusting the ingredients and the content used in a typical underwater type cosmetic formulation.
  • the oily phase does not contain a PEG surfactant in order to stabilize T. terpenes derived from Centaurea or Centella asiatica.
  • the oily portion may be from 8 wt% to 15 wt%, preferably from 11.5 wt% to 14.5 wt%, more preferably from 12.0 wt% to 13.0 wt% based on the total weight of the composition have.
  • the water-in-oil type cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further contain fragrance, plant extract, natural preservative and the like in a range of about 10.0% by weight or less.
  • the present invention provides a method for stabilizing a centilla extract or a centilla extract derived from a centilla sp. Extract in an underwater type cosmetic composition,
  • the first mixing step is performed for at least 1 minute, preferably from 2 minutes to 30 minutes
  • the second mixing step is at least 1 minute, preferably from 2 minutes to 30 minutes
  • the tertiary mixing step is at least one minute, Preferably 2 to 10 minutes
  • the fourth mixing step is preferably carried out for 1 minute or more, preferably 2 to 10 minutes.
  • the composition is stable for a long period of time, preferably for 6 months or more, have.
  • the mixing step of the method according to the present invention is not followed, precipitation of tritaeniornephrine extract or Triticum pertussis derived from the centipede extract in the composition occurs within a short period of time, for example, 1 to 2 days after the preparation of the cosmetic composition, .
  • composition of the present invention can provide excellent antiinflammation, soothing, antibacterial, scar relaxation, stimulation of collagen production, and whitening effect by containing a centistallophylla extract or a centistrophene extract derived from a centistocellular extract.
  • the water-in-oil type cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared into a suitable formulation as desired.
  • a suitable formulation for example, skin lotion, skin softener, skin toner, astringent, lotion, milky lotion, moisturizing lotion, nutrition lotion, massage cream, nutritional cream, moisturizing cream, hand cream, foundation, essence, nutrition essence, pack, soap, cleansing
  • the present invention is not limited thereto, and may be manufactured by any one or more formulations selected from the group consisting of a foam, a cleansing lotion, a cleansing cream, a body lotion and a body cleanser.
  • the formulation of the composition of the present invention is a paste, a cream or a gel, an animal fiber, a plant fiber, a wax, a paraffin, a starch, a tracer, a cellulose derivative, polyethylene glycol, silicon, bentonite, silica, talc, Can be used.
  • a solvent, a solvent or an emulsifier is used as a carrier component, and examples thereof include water, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, , 3-butyl glycol oil, glycerol aliphatic ester, polyethylene glycol or sorbitan fatty acid esters.
  • composition of the present invention may further include components included in functional additives and common cosmetic compositions, in addition to centistallium extracts or tritaeniorhana extracts derived from centipedes extracts.
  • the functional additives may include water-soluble vitamins, oil-soluble vitamins, polymer peptides, polymeric polysaccharides, sphingolipids and seaweed extracts.
  • composition of the present invention may further contain, in addition to the above-described functional additive, components contained in a general cosmetic composition as required.
  • components contained in a general cosmetic composition as required.
  • the other ingredients that can be included in the composition include humectants, emollients, surfactants, organic and inorganic pigments, organic powders, ultraviolet absorbents, preservatives, bactericides, antioxidants, plant extracts, pH adjusters, alcohols, Accelerators, coolants, antiperspirants, purified water, and the like.
  • Centella asiatica Urban extract or Centella asiatica Urban extract derived triterpene the upper preparative reactor (Asia Tycho side (ASIATICOSIDE) * Asiatic Acid (ASIATIC ACID) * Madeira homogeneous dispersion of kasik Acid (MADECASSIC ACID)) (manufactured by: Indena r)
  • a C 3 -C 6 trihydric alcohol followed by primary mixing at a temperature of about 75 ° C ( ⁇ 5 ° C) for about 15 minutes using a homomixer (manufactured by Tokushu Kika Kogyo Co., LTD) ;
  • An oil, a fat component, a surfactant or an emulsion stabilizer, and an emollient were put into a melting tank together and mixed and dissolved at a temperature of about 75 ° C or higher.
  • the oily part manufacturing process can be carried out without any particular limitation by modifying the oily part manufacturing process and the manufacturing conditions in a water-in-oil type cosmetic preparation process generally known in the art.
  • the oil phase produced through the above step (5) was added to the reaction vessel containing the water phase unit manufactured through the above steps (1) to (4), and the mixture was mixed. : Tokushu Kika Kogyo Co., Ltd.) for about 3 minutes or more and then stabilized by allowing to stand for a certain time.
  • the cosmetic obtained through the dispersion emulsification / stabilization process was degassed and cooled to finally obtain an underwater type cosmetic composition.
  • the present process can be suitably modified and applied to water and oil phase mixing / dispersion, emulsification / stabilization processes and conditions of each process in an underwater type cosmetic preparation process generally known in the art.
  • An underwater type cosmetic composition of Comparative Examples 1 to 4 in the following Table 1 was prepared by the same manufacturing process as the manufacturing processes of Examples 1 to 3 except that the components and contents of water and oil were different.
  • the time-dependent formulation stability was evaluated by observing with time the changes of the composition of the examples and comparative examples from the time immediately after the preparation to the elapse of time (2 weeks) at room temperature (room temperature), that is, the formation of the formulations, discoloration and precipitation.
  • Table 2 summarizes the results.
  • Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Over time stability ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ Over time paint (homogeneous dispersion) +++ ++++ +++ ++ - ++ - ++ - + -
  • the present invention is not limited to the process of manufacturing a cosmetic composition containing tritaper in an extract of Centella asiatica and / or Centella asiatica extract derived from Centella asiatica extract, which has been developed in the past, without using harmful chemicals that consumers are reluctant to use,
  • the present invention can provide a manufacturing process capable of producing an underwater type cosmetic composition containing the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition produced by the manufacturing process according to the present invention contains the core extract or the core extract of tsukerutepen in a high amount and stably even without using harmful chemicals that consumers are reluctant to use, It is possible to sufficiently provide the functionality of terpenes and to relieve consumers' anxiety about harmful chemicals in cosmetics, thereby making it possible to improve make-up relief and satisfaction, and as a result, Cosmetics products are expected to have high consumer preference.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique contenant une teneur élevée en extrait de Centella asiatica ou en triterpène de Centella asiatica selec., qui est un ingrédient d'extrait végétal faiblement soluble. Plus spécifiquement, la présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique de type huile dans l'eau contenant une teneur élevée en extrait de Centella asiatica et/ou en triterpène de Centella asiatica selec. et de manière stable, par dispersion d'un extrait de Centella asiatica et/ou de triterpène de Centella asiatica à haute température conjointement avec certains polyols polymères pour préparer une phase aqueuse comprenant un extrait de Centella asiatica et/ou un triterpène, après préparation de la phase aqueuse.
PCT/KR2018/010057 2017-08-31 2018-08-30 Composition cosmétique comprenant un extrait de centella asiatica ou un triterpène dérivé de celui-ci à haute teneur et un procédé pour le produire WO2019045483A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
KR10-2017-0111339 2017-08-31
KR20170111339 2017-08-31
KR10-2018-0099138 2018-08-24
KR1020180099138A KR20190024734A (ko) 2017-08-31 2018-08-24 병풀 추출물 또는 이로부터 유래한 트리테르펜을 고함량으로 포함하는 화장료 조성물 및 이의 제조 방법

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WO2019045483A2 true WO2019045483A2 (fr) 2019-03-07
WO2019045483A3 WO2019045483A3 (fr) 2019-05-09

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KR101497055B1 (ko) * 2013-03-22 2015-03-03 한국콜마주식회사 고밀도 지질 네트워크를 이용하여 색상과 펄감을 구현한 고보습 화장료 조성물 및 그 제조방법
KR102274295B1 (ko) * 2014-07-23 2021-07-07 주식회사 엘지생활건강 피부 외용제 조성물
CN106420590A (zh) * 2015-08-07 2017-02-22 玫琳凯有限公司 局部用化妆品组合物
KR101769416B1 (ko) * 2016-03-07 2017-08-18 원광보건대학교 산학협력단 주름·미백 기능을 포함한 다중기능성 마스크용 화장품의 혼합 조성물 및 제조방법
KR101714618B1 (ko) * 2017-01-25 2017-03-22 루안코리아 주식회사 Pit 시스템에 의해 제조되는 수중유형 나노입자 에멀션 화장료 조성물 및 그의 제조방법

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