WO2018184516A1 - 一种保湿组合物及其在制备保湿化妆品中的应用 - Google Patents

一种保湿组合物及其在制备保湿化妆品中的应用 Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2018184516A1
WO2018184516A1 PCT/CN2018/081689 CN2018081689W WO2018184516A1 WO 2018184516 A1 WO2018184516 A1 WO 2018184516A1 CN 2018081689 W CN2018081689 W CN 2018081689W WO 2018184516 A1 WO2018184516 A1 WO 2018184516A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
moisturizing
skin
rpm
water
moisturizing cosmetic
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2018/081689
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
戴跃锋
康文术
何广文
颜少慰
Original Assignee
湖南御家化妆品制造有限公司
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by 湖南御家化妆品制造有限公司 filed Critical 湖南御家化妆品制造有限公司
Priority to US16/301,733 priority Critical patent/US10537512B2/en
Priority to JP2018559218A priority patent/JP6853270B2/ja
Publication of WO2018184516A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018184516A1/zh

Links

Images

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/14—Liposomes; Vesicles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4946—Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/736—Chitin; Chitosan; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a composition (uniHydra) and its application in preparing moisturizing cosmetics.
  • moisturizers In all cosmetic raw materials, moisturizers occupy a very important position. On the one hand, almost all cosmetic formulas are inseparable from moisturizers. It is one of the basic substances that make up cosmetics. On the other hand, the function of moisturizers on cosmetics and Quality plays an important role in visualization. People no longer meet the past oil and skin care, but have a soft spot for some refreshing moisturizers.
  • Moisturizers are a class of hygroscopic compounds that absorb moisture from moist air. Moisturizers moisturize and moisturize by absorbing and retaining moisture. Traditional cosmetics mainly divide the raw materials with moisturizing functions into two categories. One type of moisturizer, such as glycerin, absorbs moisture by water absorption; the other type of non-polar moisturizers, such as petrolatum and white mineral oil, are on the surface. A layer of sealing oil film is formed to reduce the evaporation of moisture on the surface of the skin, and the underlying tissue moisture diffuses to the stratum corneum, so that the stratum corneum further hydrates to achieve moisturizing effect.
  • moisturizer such as glycerin
  • non-polar moisturizers such as petrolatum and white mineral oil
  • the traditional cosmetics use non-polar moisturizing agents, such as petroleum jelly, white mineral oil, etc., they form a layer of sealing oil film on the surface, making the skin poorly breathable, due to excessive greasy use, adding to the skin burden for oily skin consumers Causes the risk of clogging the pores and causing acne to acne the skin.
  • non-polar moisturizing agents such as petroleum jelly, white mineral oil, etc.
  • the traditional cosmetics added a lot of effective moisturizing components, did not fully consider promoting percutaneous absorption, so that a lot of effective moisturizing components stay on the skin surface, did not enter the skin cuticle, effectively stimulate the skin deep moisturizing ability.
  • the skin can not be permanently moisturized, resulting in a waste of the cost of cosmetic ingredients.
  • the technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a composition and application thereof in preparing moisturizing cosmetics.
  • composition provided by the present invention consists of the following parts by mass:
  • composition consists of the following parts by mass:
  • composition consists of the following parts by mass:
  • composition consists of the following parts by mass:
  • the butanediol used in the present invention is 1,3-butanediol.
  • the ceramide liposome provided by the present invention is prepared from the following raw materials:
  • the present invention employs MCT oil (Medium Chain Triglyceride) as a liquid fat.
  • MCT oil Medium Chain Triglyceride
  • candelilla wax is used as the solid fat.
  • Candelilla wax also known as kandiola wax, is a solid oil extracted from the epidermis of candelabra shrubs.
  • the volume ratio of the solid fat to the liquid fat is 70:30 to 99.9:0.1; the preferred ratio of the solid fat to the liquid fat is 70:30.
  • the surfactant is hydrogenated lecithin as the main surfactant
  • Tween-60 is the co-surfactant
  • cholesterol is used to support the liposome stable structure.
  • the preparation method of the liposome provided by the invention comprises:
  • the oil phase was mixed with the water phase at 90 ° C, emulsified for 5 min at 5000 rpm, homogenized three times at 1000 bar, filtered and dried to obtain a liposome.
  • the liposome prepared by the preparation method of the present invention and the preparation method provided by the present invention has an average particle diameter of 347.6 nm.
  • Amino acids are a general term for a class of organic compounds containing amino and carboxyl groups.
  • the basic building block of biologically functional macromolecular proteins is the basic substance that constitutes the protein required for animal nutrition.
  • the amino acids used in the present invention include lysine, histidine, arginine, aspartic acid, threonine, serine, glutamic acid, proline, glycine, alanine, isoleucine, and bright.
  • a complex amino acid consisting of tyrosine, tyrosine, and phenylalanine.
  • Chitosan is the only basic polysaccharide naturally occurring, which is composed of 2-acetamido-2-deoxy- ⁇ -D-glucose residues and 2-amino-2-deoxy- ⁇ -D-glucose residues.
  • a linear low molecular weight polymer in which the ratio is connected by a ⁇ -1,4-glycosidic bond, and the degree of polymerization n is 2-20.
  • the chitooligosaccharide used in the present invention is a chitosan having the lowest molecular weight and a molecular weight of 10 kDa or less.
  • the present invention employs carboxymethylchitosan oligosaccharide.
  • Hyaluronic acid is a disaccharide linear macromolecular acid mucopolysaccharide composed of acetylglucosamine and glucuronic acid via a glycosidic bond at a ratio of 1:1 (molar ratio).
  • the molecular weight is in the range of tens of thousands to millions.
  • -OH hydroxyl groups
  • the hyaluronic acid used in the combination species of the present invention has a molecular weight of 2.1 million, and the oligomeric hyaluronic acid is obtained by degradation of hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of not more than 10,000.
  • Oat dextran is a viscous polysaccharide that connects ⁇ -D-glucopyranose units through ⁇ (1-3) and ⁇ (1-4) glycosidic bonds to form a high molecular polymer, of which about 70 % ⁇ (1-4) glycosidic linkage and 30% ⁇ (1-3) glycosidic linkage.
  • the molecular weight varies from 5300 to 257200.
  • the present invention employs a water-soluble ⁇ -glucan in which the ratio of the ⁇ (1-3) glycosidic bond to the ⁇ (1-4) glycosidic bond content is 1:2.5 to 1:2.6.
  • Repair active peptides are commercially available and include hexapeptide-9, tripeptide-1, palmitoyltetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyltripeptide-1 and palmitoyltripeptide-5.
  • the concentration of hexapeptide-9 is 150 to 250 ppm
  • the concentration of tripeptide-1 is 900 to 1100 ppm
  • the concentration of palmitoyltetrapeptide-7 is 45 to 55 ppm
  • the concentration of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is 90 to 110 ppm.
  • the concentration of palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is 90 to 110 ppm and the concentration of palmitoyltripeptide-5 is 250 to 350 ppm.
  • the repair active peptide used in the present invention is purchased from Shenzhen Weiqi.
  • the biopolysaccharide (chitooligosaccharide, tremella polysaccharide, trehalose, oat ⁇ -glucan, hyaluronic acid) in the composition of the invention has good film forming property, and can form a “water-locking film” on the skin surface to prevent skin moisture loss. , to achieve a lasting moisturizing effect.
  • the enzymatically oligo-hyaluronic acid can be deeply added to the dermis layer; the addition of oat beta glucan can effectively inhibit hyaluronic acid degradation in the skin and promote hyaluronic acid synthesis.
  • the repair peptide in the prescription can increase the number of new cells, thicken the skin, repair from the outside and inside, from the inside to the inside, and gradually restore the normal structure and physiological functions of the skin, improve skin quality and promote skin regeneration.
  • the organic osmotic betaine, allantoin and chitosan oligosaccharide are used as the core components to form a skin transdermal absorption technique.
  • the organic combination of betaine and allantoin can protect the cell's osmotic balance by penetrating the stratum corneum, thereby increasing the water content of the superficial skin.
  • Chitosan oligosaccharides can form a semi-permeable membrane on the surface of the skin, have good gas permeability, and do not interfere with the excretion of epidermal waste and toxins.
  • the free amino group of chitooligosaccharides can chelate heavy metals, block metal ions, and synergistically promote synergy.
  • Lecithin and cholesterol are lipid-encapsulated on ceramide, and lecithin and cholesterol have good adhesion to the skin sebum membrane, which increases the transdermal release of the encapsulated ceramide, which promotes ceramide penetration into the stratum corneum. Bilayer phospholipid membrane with efficient and sustained release.
  • composition provided by the present invention contains a multidimensional moisturizing factor, which is named uniHydra.
  • composition provided by the present invention for the preparation of a moisturizing cosmetic.
  • the present invention also provides a moisturizing cosmetic comprising the composition of the present invention.
  • the mass fraction of the composition is 7.33% to 38.05%.
  • the cosmetics provided by the present invention also include Kappa U-20, arginine, preservatives and flavors.
  • the preservative is PHL.
  • the moisturizing cosmetic provided by the present invention is a cosmetic for skin.
  • the skin cosmetic is a cleansing lotion, water, milk, essence, cream or mask.
  • the moisturizing cosmetic provided by the present invention consists of the following mass fraction components:
  • the cosmetic provided by the present invention consists of the following mass fractions of components:
  • the cosmetic provided by the present invention consists of the following mass fractions of components:
  • the cosmetic provided by the present invention consists of the following mass fractions of components:
  • the preparation method of the moisturizing cosmetic provided by the invention comprises:
  • the ceramide liposome, lecithin, cholesterol, preservative, and flavor were sequentially added at 50 rpm/min, stirred for 25 minutes, and cooled to room temperature to obtain a moisturizing cosmetic.
  • the room temperature is 10 to 30 °C.
  • the components of the composition provided by the present invention cooperate with each other. Together, it can increase the moisture content of the skin and reduce the loss of skin water. This effect is significantly improved compared to the use of a certain component or a certain component alone. It shows that under the proper ratio, the components are compounded, which has a synergistic effect, thereby improving the moisturizing effect.
  • Figure 1 shows the effect of different experimental samples on the ratio of skin moisture content growth over time
  • Figure 2 shows the effect of different experimental samples on the rate of skin water loss reduction over time.
  • the present invention provides a composition and its use in the preparation of a moisturizing cosmetic, and those skilled in the art can learn from the contents of the present document and appropriately improve the process parameters. It is to be understood that all such alternatives and modifications are obvious to those skilled in the art and are considered to be included in the present invention.
  • the method and the application of the present invention have been described by the preferred embodiments, and it is obvious that the method and application of the present invention may be modified or combined and modified to achieve and apply the present invention without departing from the scope of the present invention. Invention technology.
  • test materials used in the present invention are all commercially available products, all of which are commercially available.
  • the composition provided by the present invention contains a multidimensional moisturizing factor, which is named uniHydra.
  • the oil phase is weighed according to the ratio of ceramide, caprylic acid triglyceride, candelilla wax, hydrogenated lecithin and cholesterol, alcohol, and heated to 90 ° C to completely melt the oil and stir evenly.
  • the temperature of the oil phase was maintained at 90 ° C, and the amount of lost alcohol was replenished before emulsification.
  • the aqueous phase was weighed according to the ratio of Tween-60, glycerin and water, and heated to 90 ° C to completely dissolve Tween-60 in water. The temperature of the aqueous phase was maintained at 90 ° C and the amount of lost water was replenished prior to emulsification.
  • the temperature of the oil phase was maintained at 90 ° C, the aqueous phase at 90 ° C was placed in the oil phase, the temperature was maintained at 90 ° C, and emulsification was carried out by a high-speed homogenizer, and the conditions of high-speed homogenization were 5000 rpm for 5 minutes. The temperature after emulsification was maintained at 90 °C.
  • the high-pressure homogenizer firstly added hot water, heated the temperature of the feed pipe to 90 ° C, adjusted the pressure to 1000 bar, and after the water completely entered the machine, the emulsion was added and passed three times at 1000 bar.
  • the particle size was measured after diluting 100 times (Fig. 1), and the results showed that the average particle diameter was 347.6 nm.
  • phase B is sequentially added to the reaction vessel, stirred at 50 rpm / min for 25 min, and the temperature is lowered to 45 to 50 ° C;
  • phase C and phase E were sequentially added, stirred at 50 rpm/min for 25 minutes, and the temperature was lowered to room temperature to obtain a cosmetic.
  • phase B is sequentially added to the reaction vessel, stirred at 50 rpm / min for 25 min, and the temperature is lowered to 45 to 50 ° C;
  • phase C and phase E were sequentially added, stirred at 50 rpm/min for 25 minutes, and the temperature was lowered to room temperature to obtain a cosmetic.
  • the moisturizing component prepared by the application of this patent is evaluated for efficacy by a commercially available moisturizing functional cosmetic, and evaluated according to the following method.
  • This method uses the capacitance method to test the moisture content of the stratum corneum of human skin. Its principle is based on the difference in the dielectric constant between water and other substances. According to the different water content of the skin, the capacitance value of the skin is different, and the observed parameters can represent the skin. Moisture value.
  • Germany CK company multi-functional skin tester model CUTOMETER DUAL MPA 580, this patent uses skin moisture content test probe and skin water dispersion loss TEWL test probe.
  • test environmental conditions test ambient temperature is 22 ⁇ 1 ° C, humidity is 50 ⁇ 5%, and real-time dynamic detection;
  • Volunteer requirements At least 30 active volunteers, aged between 16 and 65 years old (except for pregnant or lactating women): Forearm test area Capacitance method
  • the basic value of skin moisture determination is between 15-100: no serious system Disease, no immunodeficiency or autoimmune disease; no active allergic disease; previous history of no serious allergic to skin care cosmetics; no hormones and immunosuppressants used in the past month: for other clinical trials
  • the test drug is used as required and the information is complete; all volunteers should complete the informed consent form before the test;
  • No product can be used for 2-3 days before the test site.
  • the subjects needed to agree to clean the forearms of their hands and wipe them clean with a dry facial tissue. After cleaning, the subject measured the measurement area with both hands on the forearm.
  • formal test sit in the standard room for at least 30 minutes, do not drink water, expose the forearm, put it in a test state, and keep relaxed.
  • test products and blank controls were randomly distributed on the left and right arms. Measurements of the test area and the control area were performed using a capacitive skin tester. Each area was measured 15 times in parallel. The blank paper of each test area was first measured, and then the test was uniformly applied to the test area using a latex finger sleeve at a dose of 2.0 ⁇ 0.1 mg sample/cm 2 . The smear was measured for 1 hour, 2 hours, 4 hours, and the skin moisture content of the test area and the blank control area (measured according to this time at the time of verification), and the same volunteer test was performed by the same surveyor.
  • the MMV values for each time period were measured in decibels according to the experimental design.
  • the MMV values for each time period were measured in decibels according to the experimental design.
  • W% (W1-W0)/W0 ⁇ 100%
  • W0 moisture content before skin use sample
  • W1 moisture content after skin use sample
  • Peripheral skin (about 1 cm) was used to measure the water vapor pressure gradient formed by the water loss of the stratum corneum at different bright spots by two sets of temperature and humidity sensors, and the amount of water emitted by the percutaneous skin was directly measured.
  • the TEWL value is an important indicator of the skin barrier. The lower the TEWL value of the skin, the better the barrier function of the skin, and vice versa.
  • test environmental conditions test ambient temperature is 22 ⁇ 1 ° C, humidity is 50 ⁇ 5%, and real-time dynamic detection;
  • Volunteer requirements At least 30 active volunteers, aged between 16 and 65 (except for pregnant or lactating women): Forearm test area Capacitance method
  • the basic value of skin moisture determination is between 15-100: no serious Systemic diseases, no immunodeficiency or autoimmune diseases; those without active allergic diseases; those who have no history of severe allergies to skin care cosmetics; those who have not used hormonal drugs and immunosuppressants in the past month: for participating in other clinical The tester; the test drug is used according to the regulations and the information is complete; all volunteers should complete the informed consent before the test;
  • No product can be used for 2-3 days before the test site.
  • the subjects needed to agree to clean the forearms of their hands and wipe them clean with a dry facial tissue. After cleaning, the subject measured the measurement area with both hands on the forearm.
  • formal test sit in the standard room for at least 30 minutes, do not drink water, expose the forearm, put it in a test state, and keep relaxed.
  • test products and blank controls were randomly distributed on the left and right arms. Measurements of the test area and the control area were performed using a capacitive skin tester. Each area was measured 15 times in parallel. The blank paper of each test area was first measured, and then the test was uniformly applied to the test area using a latex finger sleeve at a dose of 2.0 ⁇ 0.1 mg sample/cm 2 . The smear was measured for 1, 2 hours, 4 hours, and the skin moisture content of the test area and the blank control area (measured according to this time during verification), and the same volunteer test was performed by the same surveyor.
  • the TEWL values of each time period were measured according to the experimental design.
  • T% (T0-T1)/T0 ⁇ 100%
  • T% percentage reduction of skin moisture transepithelial loss (TEWL);
  • T0 moisture transepidermal loss value before skin use sample
  • T1 the transepidermal loss value of the skin after using the sample
  • the composition provided by the present invention has a distribution ratio of science, and the skin moisture content is increased by 135.81%, and the skin moisture content is increased by 105.76% in 2 hours. Its ability to reduce the loss of TEWL in skin water is greatly enhanced, which is beneficial to the skin's full moisturizing.
  • the compositions provided in Examples 4 to 6 showed significant improvement in the effect of increasing the water content and inhibiting the dispersion of water (p ⁇ 0.05), indicating that the compounding of the components played a significant role. Synergies.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

一种保湿组合物及其在制备保湿化妆品中的应用，组方中各组分相互配合，共同起到提高皮肤水分含量、降低皮肤水分散失的作用，该效果与单独使用某种组分或某几种组分相比，皆具有显著性的提高，说明在适当的配比下，各组分复配，产生了增效作用，从而提高了保湿效果。

Description

一组四维保湿组合及其在制备保湿化妆品的应用
本申请要求于2017年04月06日提交中国专利局、申请号为201710220950.9、发明名称为“一组四维保湿组合及其在制备保湿化妆品的应用”的中国专利申请的优先权，其全部内容通过引用结合在本申请中。
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品技术领域，尤其涉及一种组合物(uniHydra)及其在制备保湿化妆品中的应用。
背景技术
在所有化妆品原料中，保湿剂占有非常重要的地位，一方面，几乎所有的化妆品配方都离不开保湿剂，它是组成化妆品的基础物质之一，另一方面，保湿剂对化妆品的功能和质量起到直观重要作用。人们不再满足过去油脂护肤，而对一些清爽型保湿产品情有独钟。
保湿剂是一类从潮湿空气中吸收水分的吸湿性化合物，保湿剂通过吸收和保持水分达到保湿，滋润。传统化妆品主要是将具有保湿功能的原料大致分为两类，一类保湿剂，如甘油等，通过吸水性保湿；另一类非极性保湿剂，如凡士林和白矿油等，它们在表面形成一层封闭性油膜，以减少皮肤表面水分的蒸发，下层组织水分扩散至角质层，使得角质层进一步水合达到保湿作用。
传统化妆品，人们片面地认为皮肤干燥是由于皮肤表面缺少脂类物质。证明仅在肌肤表面涂抹油脂，并不能使皮肤变得柔软。因皮肤真正原因是角质层水分不足，角质层控制外皮水分起到壁垒作用，为保持皮肤水分平衡，角质层应保持一定的水分，对抗外界环境的湿度变化，要使皮肤光滑，柔软和富有弹性，必须是皮肤保持一定的水分含量，通常皮肤水分含量保持10％～20％。
现有化妆品保湿领域存在的不足存在以下几个方面：
1、市场上绝大多数的化妆品保湿产品，仅仅通过多元醇，例如甘油，丙二醇进行肌肤补水保湿，没有在肌肤锁水保湿，持久滋养方面充分考虑。
2、传统化妆品采用非极性保湿剂，如凡士林，白矿油等，它们在表面形成一层封闭性油膜，使得皮肤透气性差，因过分油腻使用感差，为油性肌肤消费者增加了皮肤负担，导致了堵塞毛孔，引起痘痘粉刺肌肤的风险。
3、市场上部分化妆品补水保湿基础上进行了技术开发，但少有针对皮肤屏障进行全方位修复，提升皮肤屏障的自身修复性补水保湿的动态平衡能力。
4、传统化妆品添加了不少功效保湿组分，没有充分考虑促进经皮吸收，使得不少的功效保湿组分停留在肌肤表面，没有进入到皮肤角质层，有效激发肌肤深层保湿能力。导致肌肤无法持久保湿，导致化妆品功效组分成本的浪费。
因此，应当进一步开发具有良好保湿性能的保湿化妆品。
发明内容
有鉴于此，本发明要解决的技术问题在于提供一种组合物及其在制备保湿化妆品中的应用
本发明提供的组合物由如下质量份的组分组成：
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000001
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000002
一些实施例中，该组合物由如下质量份的组分组成：
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000003
一些实施例中，该组合物由如下质量份的组分组成：
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000004
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000005
一些实施例中，该组合物由如下质量份的组分组成：
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000006
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000007
本发明采用的丁二醇为1,3-丁二醇。
本发明提供的神经酰胺脂质体由以下质量份的原料制得：
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000008
为了提高神经酰胺在油脂中的溶解度，本发明采用辛酸癸酸甘油三酯MCT oil(Medium Chain Triglyceride)作为液态油脂。为了提高油脂的稳定性，采用小烛树蜡作为固态油脂。小烛树蜡(candelilla wax)又名坎地里拉蜡，是从小烛树灌木表皮中提取出的固态油脂。本发明中，固态油脂与液态油脂的体积比为70：30～99.9:0.1；优选的固态油脂与液态油脂的体积比为70：30。
本专利中表面活性剂采用氢化卵磷脂为主表面活性剂，吐温-60为辅助表面活性剂，采用胆固醇支撑脂质体稳定结构。
本发明提供的脂质体的制备方法，包括：
90℃，将神经酰胺，辛酸癸酸甘油三酯，小烛树蜡，氢化卵磷脂、胆固醇、酒精混合、溶解，制得油相；
将吐温、甘油和水混合制得水相；
90℃，将油相与水相混合，经5000rpm乳化5min，1000bar均质3次，经过滤，干燥获得脂质体。
以本发明提供组方以及本发明提供的制备方法制备的脂质体的平均粒径为347.6nm。
氨基酸是含有氨基和羧基的一类有机化合物的通称。生物功能大分子蛋白质的基本组成单位，是构成动物营养所需蛋白质的基本物质。本发明采用的氨基酸中包括赖氨酸、组氨酸、精氨酸、天冬氨酸、苏氨酸、丝氨酸、谷氨酸，脯氨酸、甘氨酸、丙氨酸、异亮氨酸、亮氨酸、酪氨酸、苯丙氨酸组成的复合氨基酸。
壳聚糖是天然存在的唯一的碱性多糖，是由2-乙酰氨基-2-脱氧-β-D-葡萄糖残基和2-氨基-2-脱氧-β-D-葡萄糖残基，以不同比例通过β-1,4-糖苷键连接而成的线性低分子量聚合物，聚合度n为2-20。本发明采用的壳寡糖是分子量最低的一种壳聚糖，分子量为10kDa以下。优选的，本发明采用的是羧甲基脱乙酰壳寡糖。
透明质酸(HA)是由乙酰氨基葡糖糖与葡萄糖醛酸通过糖苷键以1:1(摩尔比)组层的双糖直链大分子酸性粘多糖，分子量在几万到几百万道尔顿之间，HA分子中存在大量羟基(-OH)，使它产生强大的亲水性，能够结合大量的水，表现出良好的保湿性能。本发明组合物种采用的透明质酸的分子量为210万，而寡聚透明质酸由透明质酸降解获得，分子量不高于1万。
燕麦葡聚糖是一种粘性多糖，通过β(1-3)和β(1-4)糖苷键把β-D-吡喃葡萄糖单位连接起来，形成一种高分子聚合物，其中约有70％的β(1-4)糖苷键和30％的β(1-3)糖苷键。分子量变化范围5300-257200。本发明采用的是水溶性β-葡聚糖，其中β(1-3)糖苷键与β(1-4)糖苷键含量之比为1:2.5～1:2.6。
修复活性肽由市场购得，包括六肽-9、三肽-1、棕榈酰四肽-7、棕榈酰五肽-4、棕榈酰三肽-1和棕榈酰三肽-5。其中，六肽-9的浓度为150～250ppm、三肽-1的浓度为900～1100ppm、棕榈酰四肽-7的浓度为45～55ppm、棕榈酰五肽-4的浓度为90～110ppm、棕榈酰三肽-1的浓度为90～110ppm和棕榈酰三肽-5的浓度为250～350ppm。本发明采用的修复活性肽由深圳维琪购得。
本发明组合物中生物多糖(壳寡糖、银耳多糖、海藻糖、燕麦β-葡聚糖、透明质酸)具有良好的成膜性，能够在皮肤表面形成“锁水膜”防 止皮肤水分流失，达到持久保湿的效果。酶切寡聚透明质酸能够深入补充到真皮层；添加燕麦β葡聚糖能够有效抑制皮肤内的透明质酸降解，促进透明质酸合成。
组方中修复肽能够使新生细胞增多，皮肤增厚，由外及内，从表至里，全方位修复，逐渐恢复皮肤正常结构和生理功能，提升皮肤质量，促进皮肤再生。
组方中复合氨基酸、维生素B3(烟酰胺)和维生素B5(D-泛醇),卵磷脂、神经酰胺，提升细胞活力，促进皮肤新成代谢，全方位修复皮肤屏障。
组方中有机渗透质甜菜碱、尿囊素与壳寡糖作为核心组分来构成肌肤透皮吸收技术。甜菜碱与尿囊素的有机组合，通过对角质层的渗透来达到保护细胞的渗透平衡，从而增加表层肌肤的含水量的作用。壳寡糖在皮肤表面可形成半透膜，有良好的透气性，又不干扰表皮废物和毒素的排泄，壳寡糖的游离氨基可螯合重金属，封锁金属离子，协同促进增效。
卵磷脂和胆固醇对神经酰胺进行脂质包裹的，卵磷脂与胆固醇与皮肤皮脂膜具有良好的粘合性增加了包裹的神经酰胺的透皮释放，该脂质体促进神经酰胺渗透进入角质层修复双分子磷脂膜，且高效持久释放。
本发明提供的组合物含有多维保湿因子，将其命名为uniHydra。
本发明提供的组合物在制备保湿化妆品中的应用。
本发明还提供了一种保湿化妆品，包括本发明所述的组合物。
本发明提供的保湿化妆品中，组合物的质量分数为7.33％～38.05％。
本发明提供的化妆品中还包括卡波U-20、精氨酸、防腐剂和香精。
所述防腐剂为PHL。
本发明提供的保湿化妆品为肤用化妆品。
所述肤用化妆品为洁面乳，水，乳，精华，霜或面膜。
一些实施例中，本发明提供的保湿化妆品由以下质量分数的组分组成：
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000009
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000010
一些具体实施例中，本发明提供的化妆品由以下质量分数的组分组成：
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000011
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000012
一些具体实施例中，本发明提供的化妆品由以下质量分数的组分组成：
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000013
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000014
一些具体实施例中，本发明提供的化妆品由以下质量分数的组分组成：
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000015
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000016
本发明提供的保湿化妆品的制备方法包括：
80～85℃，将水、甘油、丁二醇、丙二醇、甜菜碱、尿囊素、海藻糖、燕麦葡聚糖、木糖醇、透明质酸、寡聚透明质酸、壳聚糖和银耳多糖混合，以60rpm/min，搅拌30min，采用8000rpm/min，均质3min，相关组分充分溶解；
加入卡波U-20和精氨酸，以50rpm/min，搅拌25min，采用5000r/min，均质2min；
降温至45～50℃，加入烟酰胺、氨基酸、修复肽、泛醇，以50rpm/min，搅拌25min，
依次加入神经酰胺脂质体、卵磷脂、胆固醇、防腐剂、香精以50rpm/min，搅拌25min，冷却至室温制得保湿化妆品。
所述室温为10～30℃。
本发明提供的组方中各组分相互配合。共同起到提高皮肤水分含量，降低皮肤水分散失的作用。该效果与单独使用某种组分或某几种组分相比，皆具有显著性的提高。说明在适当的配比下，各组分复配，产生了增效作用，从而提高了保湿效果。
附图说明
图1示不同实验样品对皮肤水分含量增长比率随时间变化的影响；
图2示不同实验样品对皮肤水分散失降低比率随时间变化的影响。
具体实施方式
本发明提供了一种组合物及其在制备保湿化妆品中的应用，本领域技术人员可以借鉴本文内容，适当改进工艺参数实现。特别需要指出的是，所有类似的替换和改动对本领域技术人员来说是显而易见的，它们都被视为包括在本发明。本发明的方法及应用已经通过较佳实施例进行了描述，相关人员明显能在不脱离本发明内容、精神和范围内对本文的方法和应用进行改动或适当变更与组合，来实现和应用本发明技术。
本发明采用的试材皆为普通市售品，皆可于市场购得。本发明提供的组合物含有多维保湿因子，将其命名为uniHydra。
下面结合实施例，进一步阐述本发明：
实施例1～3脂质体的制备
配方如表1
表1实施例1～3配方
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000017
油相按照配比称取神经酰胺，辛酸癸酸甘油三酯，小烛树蜡，氢化卵磷脂和胆固醇、酒精，加热到90℃使油脂完全融化后搅拌均匀。将油相的温度维持在90℃，乳化之前补充损失的酒精的量。
水相按照配比称取吐温-60，甘油和水，加热到90℃使吐温-60完全溶解在水中。将水相的温度维持在90℃，乳化之前补充损失的water的量。
油相的温度维持在90℃，将90℃的水相投入到油相中，温度维持在 90℃，利用高速均质机进行乳化，高速均质的条件为5000rpm，5分钟。乳化后温度仍然维持在90℃。
高压均质机先加入热水，将进料管的温度加热到90℃，将压力调整到1000bar，等水完全进入机器后加入乳化体，在1000bar下通过三次。
稀释100倍之后测试粒径大小(图1)，结果表明，平均粒径为347.6nm。
实施例4～6化妆品的制备
配方如表2
表2实施例4～6配方
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000018
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000019
工艺如下：
1)将反应釜中工艺水加热到80-85℃，依次加入A相组分，以60rpm/min，搅拌30min，采用8000rpm/min，均质3min,相关组分充分溶解；
2)将D相加入到反应釜，以50rpm/min，搅拌25min，采用5000rpm/min，均质2min,相关组分充分溶解；
3)将B相依次加入反应釜，以50rpm/min，搅拌25min，温度降温至45～50℃；
4)依次加入C相、E相，以50rpm/min，搅拌25min，温度降至常温，制得化妆品。
对比例1～3化妆品的制备
配方如表3
表3对比例1～3配方
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000020
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000021
工艺如下：
1)将反应釜中工艺水加热到80-85℃，依次加入A相组分，以60rpm/min，搅拌30min，采用8000rpm/min，均质3min,相关组分充分溶解；
2)将D相加入到反应釜，以50rpm/min，搅拌25min，采用5000rpm/min，均质2min,相关组分充分溶解；
3)将B相依次加入反应釜，以50rpm/min，搅拌25min，温度降温至45～50℃；
4)依次加入C相、E相，以50rpm/min，搅拌25min，温度降至常温，制得化妆品。
功效评测
本专利应用制备的保湿组分与市面销售的保湿功能化妆品进行功效评测，按照以下方法进行评测。
1皮肤水分含量MMV测试方法
1.1测试原理
此方法采用电容法测试人体皮肤角质层的水分含量，它的原理是基于水和其他物质的介电常数差异显著，按照皮肤含水量不同，测得皮肤的电容值不同，其观测参数可代表皮肤水分值。
1.2测试设备:
德国CK公司多功能皮肤测试仪，型号CUTOMETER DUAL MPA 580，本专利选用皮肤水分含量测试探头和皮肤水分散失TEWL测试探头。
1.3试验条件和志愿者要求
测试环境条件：测试环境温度为22±1℃，湿度为50±5％，并且进行实时动态检测；
志愿者要求：有效志愿者至少30人，年龄在16～65岁之间(妊娠或哺乳期妇女除外)：前臂测试区域电容法皮肤水分测定意义的基础值在15-100之间：无严重系统疾病，无免疫缺陷或自身免疫性疾病者；无活动性过敏疾病者；既往对护肤类化妆品无严重过敏史者；近一个月内未曾使用激素类药物及免疫抑制剂者：为参加其他临床试验者；按规定使用受试药物且资料齐全；测试前所有自愿者应填写知情同意书；
1.4测试前准备
受试部位前2-3天不能使用任何产品(化妆品或外用药品)。实验前，受试者需要同意清洁双手前臂内测，用干的面巾纸擦拭干净。清洁后受试者双手前臂内测做好测量区域标记。正式测试前应在符合标准房间内静坐至少30min，不能喝水，前臂暴露，呈测试状态放置，保持放松。
1.5测试步骤
实验中左右手臂内侧标记3×3cm 2试验区域，同一手臂可以标记多个区域，区域间隔1cm。测试产品和空白对照均随机分布在左右手臂上。使用电容法皮肤测定仪进行受试区域和对照区域的测量。每个区域依照平行测定15次。先测量各测试区域的空白纸，然后按2.0±0.1mg样品/cm 2的用量，使用乳胶指套将试验均匀涂布于试验区内。涂抹分别测量1小时，2小时，4小时，受试区域和空白对照区域的皮肤含水量(验证时按此时间测定)，同一个志愿者的测试由同一个测量人员完成。
1.6测试数据
按实验的设计分贝测得各时间段的MMV值。
1.5测试数据
按实验的设计分贝测得各时间段的MMV值。
计算公式为：
W％＝(W1-W0)/W0×100％
注：w％＝皮肤水分含量增长百分比(MMV)
W0＝皮肤使用样品前水分含量
W1＝皮肤使用样品后水分含量
结果如表4和图1：
表4各时间段的MMV值
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000022
2经皮水分散失TEWL测试方法
2.1测试原理
该试验仪器的测量原理来源于FICK菲克扩散定律：dm/dt＝D.A.dp/dx。通过两组温度、湿度传感器测定近表皮(约1cm内)由角质层水分散失在不同亮点形成的水蒸气压梯度，直接测出经皮散发的水分量。TEWL值是皮肤屏障好坏的一个重要标志，皮肤的TEWL值越低，说明皮肤的屏障功能越好，反之越差。
2.2试验条件和志愿者要求
测试环境条件：测试环境温度为22±1℃，湿度为50±5％，并且进行实时动态检测；
志愿者要求：有效志愿者至少30人，年龄在16-65岁之间(妊娠或浦乳期妇女除外)：前臂测试区域电容法皮肤水分测定意义的基础值在 15-100之间：无严重系统疾病，无免疫缺陷或自身免疫性疾病者；无活动性过敏疾病者；既往对护肤类化妆品无严重过敏史者；近一个月内未曾使用激素类药物及免疫抑制剂者：为参加其他临床试验者；按规定使用受试药物且资料齐全；测试前所有自愿者应填写知情同意书；
2.3测试前准备
受试部位前2-3天不能使用任何产品(化妆品或外用药品)。实验前，受试者需要同意清洁双手前臂内测，用干的面巾纸擦拭干净。清洁后受试者双手前臂内测做好测量区域标记。正式测试前应在符合标准房间内静坐至少30min，不能喝水，前臂暴露，呈测试状态放置，保持放松。
2.4测试步骤
实验中左右手臂内侧标记3×3cm 2试验区域，同一手臂可以标记多个区域，区域间隔1cm。测试产品和空白对照均随机分布在左右手臂上。使用电容法皮肤测定仪进行受试区域和对照区域的测量。每个区域依照平行测定15次。先测量各测试区域的空白纸，然后按2.0±0.1mg样品/cm 2的用量，使用乳胶指套将试验均匀涂布于试验区内。涂抹分别测量1，2小时，4小时，受试区域和空白对照区域的皮肤含水量(验证时按此时间测定)，同一个志愿者的测试由同一个测量人员完成。
测试数据
按实验设计分别测得各时段的TEWL值。
计算公式为：
T％＝(T0-T1)/T0×100％
注：T％＝皮肤水分经皮散失降低百分比(TEWL)；
T0＝皮肤使用样品前水分经皮散失值；
T1＝皮肤使用样品后水分经皮散失值；
结果如表5和图2：
表5各时间段的TEWL值
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000023
Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-000024
结合图1～2及表4～5，本发明提供的组合物，各组分配比科学，皮肤及时水分含量增加135.81％，2h还能保持皮肤水分含量105.76％增长。其降低皮肤水分散失TEWL的能力大大提升，有利于肌肤的充分保湿。与对比例1～5相比，实施例4～6提供的组方在提高水分含量、抑制水分散失的效果方面皆表现出显著性提高(p<0.05)，说明各组分复配起到了显著的增效作用。
以上仅是本发明的优选实施方式，应当指出，对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明原理的前提下，还可以做出若干改进和润饰，这些改进和润饰也应视为本发明的保护范围。

Claims (9)

  1. 一种组合物，其特征在于，由如下质量份的组分组成：
    Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-100001
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的组合物，其特征在于，所述神经酰胺脂质体由以下质量份的原料制得：
    Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-100002
    Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-100003
  3. 根据权利要求2所述的组合物，其特征在于，所述神经酰胺脂质体的制备方法包括：
    90℃，将神经酰胺，辛酸癸酸甘油三酯，小烛树蜡，氢化卵磷脂、胆固醇、酒精混合、溶解，制得油相；
    将吐温、甘油和水混合制得水相；
    90℃，将油相与水相混合，经5000rpm乳化5min，1000bar均质3次，经过滤，干燥获得脂质体。
  4. 权利要求1～3任一项所述的组合物在制备保湿化妆品中的应用。
  5. 一种保湿化妆品，其特征在于，包括权利要求1～3任一项所述的保湿组合物。
  6. 根据权利要求5所述的保湿化妆品，其特征在于，其中权利要求1～3任一项所述的保湿组合物的质量分数为7.33％～38.05％。
  7. 根据权利要求5所述的保湿化妆品，其特征在于，其中还包括卡波U-20、精氨酸、防腐剂和香精。
  8. 根据权利要求5所述的保湿化妆品，其特征在于，由以下质量分数的组分组成：
    Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-100004
    Figure PCTCN2018081689-appb-100005
  9. 权利要求6～8任一项所述保湿化妆品的制备方法，其特征在于，包括：
    80～85℃，将水、甘油、丁二醇、丙二醇、甜菜碱、尿囊素、海藻糖、燕麦葡聚糖、木糖醇、透明质酸、寡聚透明质酸、壳聚糖和银耳多糖混合，以60rpm/min，搅拌30min，采用8000rpm/min，均质3min，相关组分充分溶解；
    加入卡波U-20和精氨酸，以50rpm/min，搅拌25min，采用5000r/min，均质2min；
    降温至45～50℃，加入烟酰胺、氨基酸、修复肽、泛醇，以50rpm/min，搅拌25min，
    依次加入神经酰胺脂质体、卵磷脂、胆固醇、防腐剂、香精以50rpm/min，搅拌25min，冷却至室温制得保湿化妆品。
PCT/CN2018/081689 2017-04-06 2018-04-03 一种保湿组合物及其在制备保湿化妆品中的应用 WO2018184516A1 (zh)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US16/301,733 US10537512B2 (en) 2017-04-06 2018-04-03 Moisturizing composition and application thereof in preparation of moisturizing cosmetic product
JP2018559218A JP6853270B2 (ja) 2017-04-06 2018-04-03 保湿組成物、及びその保湿化粧品製造への応用

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201710220950.9A CN106963665B (zh) 2017-04-06 2017-04-06 一组保湿组合及其在制备保湿化妆品的应用
CN201710220950.9 2017-04-06

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2018184516A1 true WO2018184516A1 (zh) 2018-10-11

Family

ID=59337040

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/CN2018/081689 WO2018184516A1 (zh) 2017-04-06 2018-04-03 一种保湿组合物及其在制备保湿化妆品中的应用

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US10537512B2 (zh)
JP (1) JP6853270B2 (zh)
CN (1) CN106963665B (zh)
HK (1) HK1244616A2 (zh)
TW (1) TWI660744B (zh)
WO (1) WO2018184516A1 (zh)

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110713517A (zh) * 2019-10-11 2020-01-21 润辉生物技术（威海）有限公司 一种乙酰透明质酸寡肽及其制备与应用方法
CN110897916A (zh) * 2019-12-20 2020-03-24 鹂诺生物医药科技(上海)有限公司 一种多效肌底液的配方
JP2020180067A (ja) * 2019-04-24 2020-11-05 ポーラ化成工業株式会社 クエン酸回路活性化剤
CN113384483A (zh) * 2020-03-10 2021-09-14 盈妆生物科技(上海)有限公司 提高皮肤弹性，延缓衰老的组合物及其制备方法
CN115245477A (zh) * 2021-04-28 2022-10-28 广州市索柔生物科技有限公司 一种晒后修复复合物及制备方法及其应用

Families Citing this family (31)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN106963665B (zh) 2017-04-06 2018-02-27 湖南御家化妆品制造有限公司 一组保湿组合及其在制备保湿化妆品的应用
CN107320357B (zh) * 2017-08-08 2020-09-01 深圳丝爱肌化妆品有限公司 一种含多糖的化妆品
CN107536761B (zh) * 2017-09-29 2020-10-23 于名俏 一种具有保湿抗氧化功能的精华液
CN107997988B (zh) * 2017-12-28 2019-04-23 花安堂生物科技集团有限公司 一种高保湿增稠剂组合物及其在化妆品中的应用
CN108478518A (zh) * 2018-03-28 2018-09-04 湖南御家化妆品制造有限公司 一种组合物及含有该组合物的祛痘化妆品
CN108210446B (zh) * 2018-03-28 2019-03-12 湖南御家化妆品制造有限公司 组合物及含有该组合物的抑制痤疮诱发的化妆品
CN108653004A (zh) * 2018-06-26 2018-10-16 广州诺德丽诗化妆品有限公司 一种具有多重保湿舒缓修护的组合物及其制备方法
CN109481365A (zh) * 2018-12-15 2019-03-19 横琴智库转化医学有限公司 一种透皮保湿组合物及在制备化妆品中的应用
CN110974750A (zh) * 2019-12-30 2020-04-10 杭州暮色化妆品有限公司 一种修复保湿组合物及其制备方法
MX2022010412A (es) * 2020-02-25 2022-09-07 Unilever Ip Holdings B V Uso de una combinacion de un sacarido y glicerol para beneficios prebioticos.
CN111544338A (zh) * 2020-06-29 2020-08-18 承德森源绿色食品有限公司 一种含蛹虫草多糖、银耳多糖的面膜及其制备方法和应用
EP3991717A1 (en) 2020-11-03 2022-05-04 SanderStrothmann GmbH Anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition
CN112263492A (zh) * 2020-11-27 2021-01-26 天津郁美净集团有限公司 果冻状悬浮油滴高保湿睡眠面膜的配方及其制备工艺
CN112972362A (zh) * 2021-01-25 2021-06-18 广州睿锶汀化妆品制造有限公司 一种用于修复的化妆品
CN113081891A (zh) * 2021-03-30 2021-07-09 广东丸美生物技术股份有限公司 一种护肤组合物及其应用
CN113116750A (zh) * 2021-04-29 2021-07-16 广州睿森生物科技有限公司 一种多元醇组合物及其在化妆品中的应用
KR102580067B1 (ko) * 2021-06-30 2023-09-22 주식회사 고운세상코스메틱 피부 수분 밀도 개선 효과가 우수한 화장료 조성물
CN115245471B (zh) * 2021-09-23 2023-12-26 上海瑾亭化妆品有限公司 一种保湿修护面霜及其制备方法
CN114209049A (zh) * 2021-12-20 2022-03-22 金日制药（中国）有限公司 一种海洋益生元组合物及其制备方法和用途
CN115364005B (zh) * 2021-12-23 2023-10-20 广州雅纯化妆品制造有限公司 一种含有神经酰胺脂质体的凝露及其制备方法
CN114569488B (zh) * 2022-02-18 2024-03-01 宁波糖聚新材料有限责任公司 一种抑菌肽修饰纳米纤维素水凝胶、制备方法及其应用
CN114732760A (zh) * 2022-04-29 2022-07-12 深圳市萱嘉生物科技有限公司 超分子脂肪乳甘油葡糖苷组合物、其制备方法及应用以及保湿护肤乳以及保湿精华液
CN115400045A (zh) * 2022-05-20 2022-11-29 中国药科大学 一种维生素c柔性脂质体及其制备方法和应用
CN114948834A (zh) * 2022-07-15 2022-08-30 广州市丽泽化妆品有限公司 一种舒缓保湿精华液及其制备方法
CN115581635B (zh) * 2022-09-30 2023-08-18 广州无添加主义生物技术有限公司 一种具有良好透皮吸收功效的面霜及其制备方法
CN115444772B (zh) * 2022-10-26 2023-07-14 广州艾卓生物科技股份有限公司 一种保湿美白组合物及其在射频美容和医美护肤中的应用
CN115887317A (zh) * 2022-11-04 2023-04-04 上海臻臣化妆品有限公司 用于皮肤的保湿组合物和保湿液
CN116183829A (zh) * 2023-02-24 2023-05-30 广州美域医学检验有限公司 一种化妆品原料保湿效果测试方法及其应用
CN116570522A (zh) * 2023-05-16 2023-08-11 广州芃品科技有限公司 一种保湿剂及其制备方法和含有该保湿剂的化妆品
CN117442525B (zh) * 2023-12-22 2024-04-12 广东艾圣日用化学品有限公司 一种具有保湿功效的组合物及其应用
CN117797057A (zh) * 2024-02-29 2024-04-02 广州诗妃生物科技有限公司 一种含透明质酸的组合物及其在制备保湿产品中的应用

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2005330257A (ja) * 2004-04-19 2005-12-02 Nippon Fine Chem Co Ltd 化粧料
US20060275238A1 (en) * 2005-06-07 2006-12-07 Goldschmidt Gmbh Topical cosmetic formulations for regulating and improving the moisture content of the skin
CN104546516A (zh) * 2014-12-09 2015-04-29 美嘉乐(上海)生物科技有限公司 复合神经酰胺脂质体的制备工艺及应用
CN104622765A (zh) * 2015-03-06 2015-05-20 广东雅丽洁精细化工有限公司 一种含复合型胶原蛋白及高低分子透明质酸的美容面膜
CN105030564A (zh) * 2015-08-18 2015-11-11 广东轻工职业技术学院 一种具有长效保湿功能的组合物及其应用
CN105997614A (zh) * 2016-05-16 2016-10-12 刘涛 全效修护的活性肽水肌膜
CN106963665A (zh) * 2017-04-06 2017-07-21 湖南御家化妆品制造有限公司 一组四维保湿组合及其在制备保湿化妆品的应用

Family Cites Families (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH11322575A (ja) 1998-03-17 1999-11-24 Shiseido Co Ltd 肌荒れ改善・防止用皮膚外用剤
JP3439199B2 (ja) * 2001-05-07 2003-08-25 憲司 中村 保湿組成物
JP2004168763A (ja) 2002-10-30 2004-06-17 Dsr Corp 皮膚化粧料
US7854922B2 (en) * 2003-02-13 2010-12-21 Kabushiki Kaisha Hayashibara Seibutsu Kagaku Kenkyujo Skin preparation for external use characterized by containing sugar derivative of α, α-trehalose
KR100853301B1 (ko) * 2007-04-13 2008-08-21 주식회사 제닉 이수 방지 기능을 갖는 하이드로겔 조성물 및 이를포함하는 성형체
JP2015017053A (ja) 2013-07-10 2015-01-29 ポーラ化成工業株式会社 ベシクル分散組成物、該ベシクル分散組成物の製造方法、および該ベシクル分散組成物を含む皮膚外用剤
CN103655369A (zh) * 2013-12-23 2014-03-26 青岛安信医疗器械有限公司 一种面膜精华液
CN104434768B (zh) * 2014-12-10 2017-04-12 上海新高姿化妆品有限公司 一种具有缓释功效的保湿化妆水及其制备方法
CN104721068A (zh) 2015-01-29 2015-06-24 广州暨南生物医药研究开发基地有限公司 琼枝麒麟菜多糖在制备抗氧化护肤品中的用途
CN104800096A (zh) 2015-04-22 2015-07-29 上海彤颜实业有限公司 一种应用于化妆品的高效保湿组合物

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2005330257A (ja) * 2004-04-19 2005-12-02 Nippon Fine Chem Co Ltd 化粧料
US20060275238A1 (en) * 2005-06-07 2006-12-07 Goldschmidt Gmbh Topical cosmetic formulations for regulating and improving the moisture content of the skin
CN104546516A (zh) * 2014-12-09 2015-04-29 美嘉乐(上海)生物科技有限公司 复合神经酰胺脂质体的制备工艺及应用
CN104622765A (zh) * 2015-03-06 2015-05-20 广东雅丽洁精细化工有限公司 一种含复合型胶原蛋白及高低分子透明质酸的美容面膜
CN105030564A (zh) * 2015-08-18 2015-11-11 广东轻工职业技术学院 一种具有长效保湿功能的组合物及其应用
CN105997614A (zh) * 2016-05-16 2016-10-12 刘涛 全效修护的活性肽水肌膜
CN106963665A (zh) * 2017-04-06 2017-07-21 湖南御家化妆品制造有限公司 一组四维保湿组合及其在制备保湿化妆品的应用

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2020180067A (ja) * 2019-04-24 2020-11-05 ポーラ化成工業株式会社 クエン酸回路活性化剤
JP7365134B2 (ja) 2019-04-24 2023-10-19 ポーラ化成工業株式会社 クエン酸回路活性化剤
CN110713517A (zh) * 2019-10-11 2020-01-21 润辉生物技术（威海）有限公司 一种乙酰透明质酸寡肽及其制备与应用方法
CN110713517B (zh) * 2019-10-11 2022-11-01 润辉生物技术（威海）有限公司 一种乙酰透明质酸寡肽及其制备与应用方法
CN110897916A (zh) * 2019-12-20 2020-03-24 鹂诺生物医药科技(上海)有限公司 一种多效肌底液的配方
CN110897916B (zh) * 2019-12-20 2023-02-03 鹂诺生物医药科技(上海)有限公司 一种多效肌底液的配方
CN113384483A (zh) * 2020-03-10 2021-09-14 盈妆生物科技(上海)有限公司 提高皮肤弹性，延缓衰老的组合物及其制备方法
CN115245477A (zh) * 2021-04-28 2022-10-28 广州市索柔生物科技有限公司 一种晒后修复复合物及制备方法及其应用

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JP2019518734A (ja) 2019-07-04
JP6853270B2 (ja) 2021-03-31
HK1244616A2 (zh) 2018-08-10
TWI660744B (zh) 2019-06-01
US20190282487A1 (en) 2019-09-19
CN106963665A (zh) 2017-07-21
TW201838621A (zh) 2018-11-01
US10537512B2 (en) 2020-01-21
CN106963665B (zh) 2018-02-27

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
WO2018184516A1 (zh) 一种保湿组合物及其在制备保湿化妆品中的应用
JP7013377B2 (ja) 保湿性組成物及びその使用
JP4767914B2 (ja) 皮膚をひきしめる効果のある化粧組成物
CN108969446B (zh) 一种增强皮肤屏障功能的婴幼儿防皴护肤组合物及其制备方法
CN110917067B (zh) 一种具有高保湿功效的浴用润肤膏及其制备方法
CN110433113A (zh) 一种含有保湿抗衰组合物的精华露及制备方法
JPS59134706A (ja) 化粧料
JP2001039848A (ja) 皮膚外用剤
CN107028810B (zh) 一种透皮保湿组合及在制备化妆品中的应用
WO2019013670A1 (ru) Косметическая маска для нанесения на кожу и способ ее нанесения
CN111743789A (zh) 一种双层保湿精华液及其制备方法
WO2020242516A1 (en) Skin treatment composition and preservation system
JP7475018B2 (ja) 皮膚外用組成物
JPH09291013A (ja) 皮膚化粧料
JP3479048B2 (ja) 化粧料及び不織布含浸化粧料
TW201343190A (zh) 有關應用於保溼及除皺之皮膚保養組合成份
KR20170036900A (ko) 사용 시 유화기능이 부여되는 마스크 팩 조성물
CN114652622B (zh) 一种显蓝光低温不结冰的含油脂化妆水及其制备方法
JP2008169196A (ja) 皮膚外用剤
CN110403845A (zh) 一种护肤霜及护肤品套装
AU2015231854A1 (en) Shellac based skin care lotion
JPH0429919A (ja) 保湿化粧料
CN114569485B (zh) 一种含有液晶结构的眼霜及其制备方法
CN115737517A (zh) 保湿面霜
TW201909924A (zh) 皮膚外用劑及其製造方法

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
ENP Entry into the national phase

Ref document number: 2018559218

Country of ref document: JP

Kind code of ref document: A

121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 18781396

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

122 Ep: pct application non-entry in european phase

Ref document number: 18781396

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1