WO2018114800A1 - Composition comprenant un polymère d'amps, de la montmorillonite, de la silice et du kaolin - Google Patents

Composition comprenant un polymère d'amps, de la montmorillonite, de la silice et du kaolin Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2018114800A1
WO2018114800A1 PCT/EP2017/083307 EP2017083307W WO2018114800A1 WO 2018114800 A1 WO2018114800 A1 WO 2018114800A1 EP 2017083307 W EP2017083307 W EP 2017083307W WO 2018114800 A1 WO2018114800 A1 WO 2018114800A1
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Prior art keywords
composition
skin
weight
montmorillonite
acrylamido
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PCT/EP2017/083307
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English (en)
Inventor
Chloé LAIDBOEUR
Geoffroy Remaut
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2018114800A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018114800A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0212—Face masks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • Composition comprising an AMPS polymer, montmorillonite, silica and kaolin
  • the present invention relates to an aqueous composition, in particular a cosmetic aqueous composition, for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, in particular the skin of the face or the neck.
  • the composition used aims more particularly to purify and moisturize the skin and can in particular be in the form of a mask, in particular a rinse-off mask.
  • a cosmetic composition described as a mask is a cosmetic composition formulated so as to be applied to the skin in the form of a more or less thick layer since it is devoted to providing cosmetic skin care, generally deep cleansing of the epidermis. After an application time required in order to accomplish this care, generally greater than 10 or even 15 minutes, this layer is then removed.
  • the present invention relates more specifically to compositions of rinse-off mask type for which this removal is carried out by simple rinsing, in particular with water.
  • This type of mask differs from masks which are removed by peeling (or "peel-off mask), which are aqueous film- forming compositions and which, after application to the face, dry to give a film that is removed by peeling it off.
  • the mask-type compositions can be in the form of a gel, in particular an aqueous gel, of an emulsion or of a paste.
  • a gel in particular an aqueous gel, of an emulsion or of a paste.
  • these compositions conventionally contain absorbent fillers, in particular clay fillers, which by virtue of their absorbent capacity fix the fatty compounds of the surface of the epidermis (sebum), bringing about deep cleansing of the skin.
  • the mask-type compositions already available thus generally contain a mixture of several fillers. However, they are not entirely satisfactory. They very often require a leave- on time of much longer than 10 minutes and do not allow uniform color transformation via drying.
  • compositions of this type want to favor fast-drying formulations, the color of which changes during this drying so as to give a surface with a uniform color.
  • This more esthetic visual phenomenon also has the advantage of by itself being able to mark the conclusion of the care.
  • the object of the present invention is, precisely, to satisfy this expectation.
  • the present invention is directed toward an aqueous composition, in particular a cosmetic aqueous composition, in particular for caring for the skin, comprising at least:
  • the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer and the montmorillonite being used in a polymer / montmorillonite weight ratio ranging from 0.007 to 0.5, preferably from 0.025 to 0.375, in particular from 0.063 to 0.25.
  • the inventors have noted that the use of the clay fillers considered according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a mask-type composition corresponding to the abovementioned expectations, with the proviso of considering the simultaneous presence of a 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer (AMPS polymer) and an AMPS polymer / montmorillonite weight ratio that is within a given range.
  • AMPS polymer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer
  • montmorillonite weight ratio that is within a given range.
  • composition in accordance with the invention forms an opaque and smooth film, which rapidly dries over the whole of its surface, beginning with the edges, and the shade of which gradually lightens until a stabilized and uniform final coloring is obtained, indicating the conclusion of the care.
  • composition according to the invention advantageously has the expected properties in terms of stability over time, of innocuousness, of ease of use and of cosmetic properties (feeling of comfort and skin finish).
  • fast-drying mask is intended to mean a mask which is dry to the touch over the whole of its surface in less than 10 minutes, preferably in less than 8 minutes, in particular in less than 5 minutes after it has been applied to the skin.
  • homogeneous color or "uniform color” is intended to mean a color identical to the eye at any point.
  • color transformation is intended to mean a significant lightening of the shade of the mask during drying.
  • a composition according to the invention is provided as a rinse-off skin care mask, in particular a rinse-off skin- cleansing mask.
  • a subject of the present invention is also, according to a second aspect, the cosmetic use of a composition as previously described, as a rinse-off skin care mask, in particular a rinse-off skin-cleansing mask.
  • a subject of the present invention is also, according to a third aspect, a cosmetic process for caring for the skin, in particular for cleansing the skin, and more particularly the skin of the face and/or of the neck, comprising at least the steps consisting in:
  • composition according to the invention is advantageously cosmetic.
  • cosmetic composition is intended to mean a substance or a preparation intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body, especially the epidermis, the lips and the oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleansing them, making them more attractive, fragrancing them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition, or correcting body odors.
  • composition according to the invention comprises a "physiologically acceptable medium".
  • physiologically acceptable medium is intended to mean a medium that is suitable for the topical administration of a composition, and that is compatible with all human keratin materials, such as the skin, the lips, the nails, the mucous membranes, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the scalp and/or the hair, or any other area of bodily skin.
  • a physiologically acceptable medium is preferentially a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium which is free of any odor or unpleasant appearance and which is entirely compatible with the topical administration route.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises at least one 2-acrylamido- 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer.
  • AMPS polymer 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer
  • the AMPS polymers are water-soluble, water-dispersible or water-swellable polymers.
  • compositions of the invention make it possible to confer good stability on the compositions of the invention and can contribute to the gelling of their aqueous medium.
  • the AMPS polymers used in accordance with the invention can be partially or totally neutralized in one form with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, an ammomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for instance arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are generally neutralized.
  • the term "neutralized” is intended to mean polymers that are totally or virtually totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.
  • the AMPS polymers that can be used in the composition of the invention generally have a number-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20 000 000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 20 000 to 5 000 000 and even more preferentially from 100 000 to 1 500 000 g/mol.
  • the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefmically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
  • crosslinking agents include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebis(acrylamide), methylenebis(methacrylamide), triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxy ethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allylic ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allylic or vinyl ethers
  • the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).
  • TMPTA trimethylolpropane triacrylate
  • the degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mo 1% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
  • AMPS homopolymers preferred for use in the composition of the invention are crosslinked and neutralized, and they may be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps:
  • the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably aqueous ammonia NH 3 , in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer ranging from 90% to 100%;
  • a standard free-radical polymerization is performed in the presence of free- radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10 to 150°C; the polymer precipitates in the tert-butanol-based solution or dispersion.
  • the AMPS homopolymers more particularly preferred comprise, randomly distributed, units of general formula (I) below:
  • X + denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion, not more than 10 mol% of the cations X + possibly being protons H + ; and crosslinking units originating from at least one monomer having at least two olefin double bonds.
  • the homopolymers used according to the invention and more particularly preferred comprise from 90% to 99.9% by weight and preferably from 98%> to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (I), and from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2%) by weight of crosslinking units, the weight proportions being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.
  • a homopolymer of this type that may in particular be mentioned crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer sold by the company Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (also called ammonium polyocryldimethyltauramide or ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate).
  • Hostacerin AMPS also called ammonium polyocryldimethyltauramide or ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate.
  • the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymers that may be used in the composition of the invention may be chosen especially from:
  • crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide or methacrylamide and of 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid especially those in the form of a W/O emulsion, such as those sold under the name Simulgel 600 by SEPPIC (INCI name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80);
  • n denotes a number of moles which is an integer ranging from 3 to 100, preferably from 3 to 50 and more preferentially from 7 to 25;
  • Ri is hydrogen or a methyl radical, and R 2 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the AMPS unit of formula (I) generally represents from 80 to 99 mol% and preferably from 85 to 99 mol%, and the unit of formula (II) generally represents 1 to 20 mol% and preferably from 1 to 15 mol%.
  • AMPS copolymers containing a hydrophobic unit mention may be made especially of the copolymer of AMPS and of ethoxylated C 12 -C 14 alkyl methacrylate (noncrosslinked copolymer obtained from Genapol LA-070 and AMPS) (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/laureth-7 methacrylate copolymer) sold under the name Aristoflex LNC by the company Clariant, the copolymer of AMPS and of ethoxylated (25 EO) stearyl methacrylate (copolymer crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate, obtained from Genapol T-250 and AMPS) (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Aristoflex HMS by Clariant, and the copolymer of AMPS and of ethoxylated Ci6-
  • the polymer is a crosslinked and neutralized AMPS homopolymer, and in particular ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltauramide like Hostacerin AMPS sold by the company Clariant.
  • the amount of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer in the composition of the invention may range, for example, as active material, from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.3%> to 1.5% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition accoridng to the invention comprises, in combination with the AMPS polymer, a specific combination of clay fillers.
  • fillers are advantageously dispersed in the aqueous phase of the composition of the invention.
  • This combination contains at least silica, kaolin and montmorillonite, the montmorillonite being used in a content relative to the AMPS polymer such that the AMPS polymer / montmorillonite weight ratio ranges from 0.007 to 0.5.
  • an AMPS polymer / montmorillonite weight ratio in such a range proves to be decisive for obtaining a mask-type composition with the desired properties.
  • Montmorillonite also known as "Sommieres" earth, is an aluminum magnesium silicate hydrate belonging to the smectite group of the phyllo silicate family.
  • the composition can comprise a montmorillonite content of at least 4% by weight, preferably ranging from 4% to 12% by weight, in particular from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the montmorillonite and the silica are used in the composition according to the invention such that the weight ratio of the montmorillonite relative to the mixture of montmorillonite and silica can range from 0.21 to 0.86, preferably from 0.29 to 0.80, in particular from 0.29 to 0.55.
  • montmorillonite that may be suitable for the present invention, mention may in particular be made of Gelwhite-H XR sold by BYK Additives & Instruments or Kunipia G4 so by Kunimine.
  • Gelwhite-H XR sold by BYK Additives & Instruments is particularly preferred in the context of the present invention.
  • Kaolin is a natural clay composed mainly of kaolinite, an aluminum silicate hydrate belonging to the phyllosilicate family.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise a kaolin content ranging from 1% to 40%, preferably from 10% to 30%, in particular from 20% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Kaolin that may be suitable for the present invention, mention may in particular be made of Kaolin supreme sold by Imerys or Coslin C 100 sold by BASF, preferably Kaolin supreme sold by Imerys.
  • the silicas that can be used in the context of the present invention can in particular be porous silicas, in other words porous particles of silica.
  • porous particles is intended to mean particles having a structure comprising pores or interstices.
  • the structure of the particles may be of matrix type like a sponge.
  • the porosity of the particles is characterized quantitatively by their specific surface area.
  • the silica is preferably chosen from silicas having a specific surface area of from 30 to 1000 m 2 /g, preferably from 100 to 900 m 2 /g.
  • the specific surface area per unit mass may be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to international standard ISO 5794/1 (annex D).
  • the BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles under consideration.
  • the sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is in particular described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the silicas used in the context of the present invention are spherical porous silicas, and more particularly microspheres of porous silica.
  • the term "spherical silicas" is intended to mean particles in the form or substantially in the form of a sphere, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (about 100°C).
  • the silicas which can be used in the composition of the invention are amorphous and of fumed origin. They are preferably provided in the pulverulent form.
  • the volume mean diameter of the particles generally ranges from 0.1 ⁇ (microns) to 40 ⁇ (microns). It is preferably less than 30 ⁇ and in particular less than 20 ⁇ . More particularly, the volume mean diameter of the particles ranges from 1 ⁇ to 20 ⁇ .
  • the silica particles according to the invention have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 25 g/100 g to 315g/100 g, preferably from 50 to 150 g/100 g and better still from 70 to 130 g/100 g.
  • the absorption capacity measured at the wet point and denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil which it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
  • the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio of weight of oil (g) to weight of powder
  • the silica used in the present invention has an oil uptake and a water uptake that are similar to one another.
  • porous silica that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may particularly be made of the following commercial products: Silica Beads SB- 150, SB-300 or SB 700, preferentially SB 300 from the company Miyoshi Kasei; the Sunsphere range from the company Asahi Glass AGC SI-TECH, especially Sunsphere H-51, Sunsphere H-33 or Sunsphere 12L, Sunsphere H-201, H-52 and H-53; the Solesphere range from the company Asahi Glass AGC SI-TECH, in particular Solesphere H-51 ; Sunsil 130 from the company Sunjin; Spherica P-1500 from the company Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere from the company Fuji Silysia; the Silica Pearl and Satinier ranges from the company JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more particularly Satinier Ml 3 and Ml 6, the silicas MSS-500 from the company Kobo, and more particularly MSS-500-20N, and also Silica Shells from the company Ko
  • the silica and the montmorillonite are used in the composition according to the invention such that the sum of their contents can range from 6% to 30%, preferably from 10% to 20%, in particular from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention can comprise, in addition to the clay fillers mentioned above, at least one additional clay filler.
  • Such an additional filler can be any clay filler known to those skilled in the art, and can in particular be chosen from hectorites and bentonites.
  • the AMPS polymer and montmorillonite and silica mixture components can be used in a polymer/mixture weight ratio ranging from 0.001 to 0.35, preferably from 0.01 to 0.15, in particular from 0.04 to 0.1.
  • the composition according to the invention is an aqueous composition, and therefore has an aqueous solvent medium.
  • This aqueous solvent medium can be constituted of water or can comprise water as a mixture with one or more water-soluble solvent(s) like glycerol and glycols.
  • water-soluble solvent denotes a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature, that is to say 25°C, and water-miscible.
  • the aqueous medium (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 25% to 95% by weight, preferably from 45% to 90% by weight and better still from 50% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the aqueous medium is advantageously in the form of an aqueous dispersion, which is preferably gelled, thus forming an aqueous gel.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid or solid fatty substances.
  • composition according to the invention can be described as an emulsified gel or gelled emulsion.
  • a composition according to the invention preferably comprises at most 10% by weight, in particular from 2% to 5% by weight of liquid or solid fatty substance relative to its total weight.
  • Cosmetic active agent preferably comprises at most 10% by weight, in particular from 2% to 5% by weight of liquid or solid fatty substance relative to its total weight.
  • composition according to the invention can also be dedicated to providing, together with the cleansing effect provided mainly by the mixture of clay fillers that is under consideration according to the invention, a specific supplementary care.
  • a composition according to the invention can therefore also contain at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular chosen from a moisturizing agent; an agent with sebum-regulating activity, in particular for the care of oily skin, or treating activity in particular with regard to blackheads or skin imperfections; an agent with soothing or relaxing activity; a refreshing agent; a tensioning agent; a desquamating agent and an agent with activity that stimulates skin microcirculation, for the purpose of improving the radiance of the complexion, in particular of the face.
  • a cosmetic active agent in particular chosen from a moisturizing agent; an agent with sebum-regulating activity, in particular for the care of oily skin, or treating activity in particular with regard to blackheads or skin imperfections; an agent with soothing or relaxing activity; a refreshing agent; a tensioning agent; a desquamating agent and an agent with activity that stimulates skin microcirculation, for the purpose of improving the radiance of the complexion, in particular of the face.
  • the weight proportion is capable of varying according to the nature of the agent under consideration.
  • the weight proportion of each of these active agents can be between 0.001% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • moisturizing agent use may for example be made of polyols, in particular polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, glycol ethers having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyol mention may particularly made of sorbitol, glycerol, 1 ,3 -propanediol and glycols.
  • the glycol ethers can in particular be chosen from mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (Ci-C4)alkyl ethers, and mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (Ci-C4)alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition of the invention comprises at least one moisturizing agent chosen from polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular chosen from glycols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, like ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, hexylene glycol and caprylyl glycol.
  • a moisturizing agent chosen from polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular chosen from glycols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, like ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, hexylene glycol and caprylyl glycol.
  • the moisturizing agent can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20%, in particular from 0.3% to 10% by weight of moisturizing agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • agent with soothing or relaxing effect use may for example be made of a glycirrhizate, in particular in the form of a potassium salt of Aloe vera, a spring water, provitamin B5, allantoin or an essential oil.
  • agent that stimulates skin microcirculation use may for example be made of ruscogenin, caffeine or theine.
  • salicylic acid As agent with sebum-regulating activity in particular for the care of oily skin, or with treating activity, in particular with regard to blackheads or skin imperfections, use may for example be made of salicylic acid, ER195, zinc oxide or at least one zinc-based derivative, in particular organic salts of zinc, such as zinc gluconate, zinc salicylate or zinc pidolate.
  • menthol or a derivative thereof, such as menthoxypropanediol.
  • composition of the invention Mention may be made, as other active agents which can be used in the composition of the invention, for example, of vitamins and mixtures thereof.
  • tensioning agent mention may particularly be made of hybridur or the argan protein.
  • a composition according to the invention can also comprise the adjuvants that are customary in the cosmetics and dermatological fields, such as surfactants, antioxidants, fragrances, conditioners, preservatives, colorants, non-clay fillers, exfoliant particles or inclusions.
  • the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
  • AHAs alpha- hydroxy acids
  • Hepes alpha- hydroxy acids
  • compositions according to the invention may thus comprise at least one surfactant.
  • surfactants that may be present in the composition, mention may in particular be made of nonionic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, in particular those promoting the removal of the mask during rinsing.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise one or more nonionic surfactant(s).
  • They can be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols and (Ci-C2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or else these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30
  • Nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type represented especially by the following general formula: RiO-(R20)t-(G) v in which:
  • - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl substituent comprising 6 to
  • - R 2 represents an alkylene substituent comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,
  • alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:
  • Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl substituent comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms
  • - P 2 represents an alkylene substituent comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,
  • - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose
  • the degree of polymerization i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
  • the glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type.
  • the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.
  • the nonionic surfactants are chosen from (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (Cs-Cis alkyl)(poly)glycosides, ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, polyethoxylated C8-C30 fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters, these compounds preferably containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises said nonionic surfactant(s) in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, especially ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight and preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic surfactant(s).
  • a-olefinsulfonates such as sodium a-olefinsulfonate (Ci4-Ci 6 ), in particular that under the name Bio-Terge AS-40® by Stepan, in particular those sold under the names Witconate AOS Protege® and Sulframine AOS PH 12® by Witco or in particular that sold under the name Bio-Terge AS- 40 CG® by Stepan, secondary sodium olefmsulfonate, in particular that sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30® by Clariant; or linear alkylaryl sulfonates, such as sodium xylene sulfonate, in particular those sold under the names Manrosol SXS30®, Manrosol SXS40® and Manrosol SXS93® by Manro.
  • a-olefinsulfonates such as sodium a-olefinsulfonate (Ci4-Ci 6 )
  • Bio-Terge AS-40® by Step
  • alkyl sulfoacetates mention may be made of lauryl sulfoacetate, such as, for example, that which is sold as a mixture with sodium methyl-2-sulfolaurate and disodium 2- sulfolaurate under the reference Stepan Mild PCL by Stepan.
  • acylisethionates such as sodium cocoylisethionate
  • Taurates that may be mentioned include the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate, in particular that sold under the name Hostapon CT Pate® by Clariant; N- acyl N-methyltaurates, for instance sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate, in particular that sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by Clariant or sold under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T® by Nikkol, and sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate, in particular that sold under the name Nikkol PMT® by Nikkol.
  • sulfo succinates for example, of lauryl (70/30 C 12 /C 14 ) alcohol monosulfo succinate oxyethylene (3 EO), in particular those sold under the names Setacin 103 Special® and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4® by Witco, the disodium salt of a hemisulfosuccinate of C 12 -C 14 alcohols, in particular that sold under the name Setacin F Special Paste® by Zschimmer Schwarz, disodium oleamidosulfosuccinate oxyethylene (2 EO), in particular that sold under the name Standapol SH 135® by Cognis, oxyethylene (5 EO) lauramide monosulfo succinate, in particular that sold under the name Lebon A-5000® by Sanyo, the disodium salt of lauryl citrate monosulfosuccinate oxyethylene (10 EO), in particular that sold under the name Rewopol SB CS 50® by Witco, the diso
  • phosphates and alkyl phosphates mention may for example be made of monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl monophosphate, in particular that sold under the name MAP 20® by Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecylphosphoric acid, a mixture of mono- and diester (predominantly diester), in particular that sold under the name Crafol AP-31® by Cognis, the mixture of octylphosphoric acid monoester and diester, in particular that sold under the name Crafol AP-20® by Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated (7 mol of EO) 2-butyloctanol phosphoric acid monoester and diester, in particular that sold under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester® by Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine salt of mono-(Ci2-Ci3)alkyl phosphate, in particular that sold under the references Arla
  • alkylamido alkylamine derivatives such as N-disodium N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N- carboxymethylethylenediamine (CTFA name: Disodium cocoamphodiacetate) in particular that sold as an aqueous saline solution under the name Miranol C2M Cone NP® by the company Rhodia Chimie; N-sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N- carboxymethylethylenediamine (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate) and the mixture of coconut acid ethanolamides (CTFA name: Cocamide DEA).
  • CTFA name Disodium cocoamphodiacetate
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one surfactant, in particular in a content ranging from 0% to 10%, preferably from 2% to 8%, in particular from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • colorants they can be chosen from pigments, nacres, dyes, materials with an effect, and mixtures thereof in any proportions.
  • a composition of the invention comprises at least one colorant chosen from pigments, in particular iron oxides.
  • the colorants can in particular be chosen from natural dyes.
  • composition of the invention comprises at least:
  • ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide as 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer in particular in a content ranging from
  • - kaolin in a content ranging from 20% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition of the invention also comprises at least one moisturizing agent, in particular chosen from glycols, in particular glycols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • a composition of the invention also comprises at least one liquid or solid fatty substance, in particular at least one shea butter and/or lecithin.
  • a composition of the invention also comprises at least one surfactant, in particular a nonionic surfactant.
  • compositions accoridng to the invention can be prepared according to the usual methods for preparing cosmetic compositions, and in particular by simple cold-mixing of the constituent compounds of the composition. Those skilled in the art are capable of determining the operating conditions for preparing the composition of the invention.
  • composition according to the invention is intended for topical administration, that is to say administration by application at the surface of the keratin material under consideration.
  • keratin materials is intended to mean the skin, of the body, face and/or area around the eyes, the nails or any other area of bodily skin.
  • the preferred keratin material according to the invention is the skin.
  • skin is intended to mean all of the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably still the skin of the face, especially of the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin and area around the eyes.
  • the composition according to the invention may be a care composition, in particular may be a skin care product such as a skin care base, or a make up removal or cleansing composition for the skin, and it is advantageously a mask-type skincare composition, in particular to be rinsed off, in particular a rinse-off skin-cleansing mask.
  • a care composition in particular may be a skin care product such as a skin care base, or a make up removal or cleansing composition for the skin, and it is advantageously a mask-type skincare composition, in particular to be rinsed off, in particular a rinse-off skin-cleansing mask.
  • a subject of the present invention is also the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention, as a rinse-off skin care mask, in particular a rinse-off skin- cleansing mask.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process for caring for the skin, in particular for cleansing the skin, and more particularly the skin of the face and/or of the neck, comprising at least the steps consisting in:
  • the process necessarily comprises step ii) for drying the film.
  • This step has reached its conclusion once the film has dried.
  • the conclusion of this drying can advantageously be noted by virtue of the change in color resulting in a uniform complexion in a period of less than or equal to two 10 minutes.
  • the leave-on time of the film at the surface of the skin, materialized by step ii) can range from 3 to 10 minutes.
  • composition in accordance with the invention described in the table which follows was prepared by cold-mixing all of the ingredients listed.
  • This composition was applied to the skin of the face and neck of 18 women from 20 to 50 years old, so as to form a uniform film, and was then left to dry 10 minutes, until a film of uniform color for, that was lighter than that during the application of the mask, was obtained.
  • the mask was then rinsed off with water.
  • this mask is pleasant (soft, fresh and comfortable). It provides a feeling of comfort during the leave-on time and after the rinsing. Finally, the skin is smooth, supple, clean, fresh, luminous and moisturized and has a healthy appearance after rinsing.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition aqueuse, en particulier une composition aqueuse cosmétique, en particulier pour le soin de la peau, comprenant au moins : un polymère d'acide 2-acrylamido-2-méthylpropanesulphonique; de la montmorillonite; de la silice; et du kaolin; le polymère d'acide 2-acrylamido-2-méthylpropanesulfonique et la montmorillonite étant utilisés dans un rapport pondéral polymère/montmorillonite allant de 0,007 à 0,5, de préférence de 0,025 à 0,375, en particulier de 0,063 à 0,25. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation cosmétique d'une telle composition en tant que masque de soin de la peau rinçable et un procédé cosmétique de soin de la peau utilisant une telle composition.
PCT/EP2017/083307 2016-12-19 2017-12-18 Composition comprenant un polymère d'amps, de la montmorillonite, de la silice et du kaolin WO2018114800A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1662731 2016-12-19
FR1662731A FR3060379B1 (fr) 2016-12-19 2016-12-19 Composition comprenant un polymere d'amps, de la montmorillonite, de la silice et du kaolin

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WO2018114800A1 true WO2018114800A1 (fr) 2018-06-28

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WO (1) WO2018114800A1 (fr)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114599344A (zh) * 2019-10-30 2022-06-07 莱雅公司 具有增强的活性物沉积的无滴落清洁面膜
FR3120195A1 (fr) * 2021-02-26 2022-09-02 L'oreal Composition pour améliorer le tensioactif

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2986425A1 (fr) * 2012-02-06 2013-08-09 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant des particules d'aerogel de silice et une argile

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2986425A1 (fr) * 2012-02-06 2013-08-09 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant des particules d'aerogel de silice et une argile

Non-Patent Citations (4)

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Title
ERNEST W. FLICK: "Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations", 1992
JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN CHEMICAL SOCIETY, vol. 60, February 1938 (1938-02-01), pages 309
ROHM AND HAAS COMPANY: "Uses of Ethylenecarboxamide / Acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonate / Methacrylates polymer in personal care applications: Acudyne SCP styling conditioning polymer", NOT KNOWN, MASON PUBLICATIONS, HAMPSHIRE, GB, vol. 478, no. 2, 1 February 2004 (2004-02-01), XP007133356, ISSN: 0374-4353 *
VAN DE HULST, H.C.: "Light Scattering by Small Particles", 1957, WILEY, article "Chapters 9 and 10"

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114599344A (zh) * 2019-10-30 2022-06-07 莱雅公司 具有增强的活性物沉积的无滴落清洁面膜
JP7455966B2 (ja) 2019-10-30 2024-03-26 ロレアル 改良された活性分付着を有する液垂れしないクレンジングマスク
FR3120195A1 (fr) * 2021-02-26 2022-09-02 L'oreal Composition pour améliorer le tensioactif

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FR3060379B1 (fr) 2019-07-05

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