WO2014207715A2 - Gel émulsifié à base d'amidon de type pemulen - Google Patents

Gel émulsifié à base d'amidon de type pemulen Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014207715A2
WO2014207715A2 PCT/IB2014/062662 IB2014062662W WO2014207715A2 WO 2014207715 A2 WO2014207715 A2 WO 2014207715A2 IB 2014062662 W IB2014062662 W IB 2014062662W WO 2014207715 A2 WO2014207715 A2 WO 2014207715A2
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Prior art keywords
composition
weight
starch
total weight
relative
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PCT/IB2014/062662
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English (en)
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WO2014207715A3 (fr
Inventor
Isabelle Bossant
Lise-Laure DUNOYER MORALI
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2014207715A3 publication Critical patent/WO2014207715A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008—Preparations for oily skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the cosmetic field and more particularly to a cosmetic composition that is useful especially for reducing the flow of sweat and/or for attenuating the shininess of facial and/or bodily skin.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for caring for and/or making up the skin, which consists in applying to the surface of the skin an effective amount of such a composition.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of a gel, a foundation, a tinted or non-tinted cream, a cream-gel, a care cream or an antisun product and may be available in a tube or in a jar or in the form of a roll-on, sticks, pump-dispenser bottles, an aerosol or a spray.
  • the shininess of the skin may be linked to substantial secretion of sebum and/or sweat resulting from a physical activity or climatic conditions.
  • Shiny skin also generally gives rise to poorer staying power of the makeup, which thus has a tendency to become degraded in the course of the day.
  • aluminium salts or aluminium/zirconium salts for instance aluminium and/or zirconium chlorohydrates
  • these salts have the drawback of being irritant and of being poorly tolerated, especially by people with sensitive skin.
  • their antiperspirant efficacy is limited when they are used alone and their use in high concentrations in order to obtain good efficacy results in formulation difficulties.
  • compositions based on deodorant active agents and/or antiperspirant active agents, which are intended to be applied to the skin and which contain body powders such as talc, are moreover known.
  • Powders for absorbing sebum and thus making the skin matt by a mechanical effect are also known.
  • pulverulent compositions consist of powders that have different apparent densities and, during their handling and storage, segregation of the constituents takes place, with the heaviest collecting at the bottom of the container in which the composition is contained, and the lightest at the top.
  • the pulverulent composition taken up by the consumer at the start of use of the product may be very volatile and an appreciable amount of product may thus be lost.
  • Powders also have a tendency to be sensitive to ambient humidity, to agglomerate and to leave white marks on the skin and/or clothing.
  • compositions in powder form give off dust during their handling and can consequently be harmful, toxic or even irritant to the nasal cavity, the mouth, the throat and the lungs.
  • compositions that both are stable and afford good mattifying and/or antiperspirant efficacy. It is moreover also sought for these compositions additionally to have a comfortable and pleasant sensory feel on the skin, in particular freshness, easy spreadability, rapid penetration into the skin, softness, creaminess and/or lightness of the textures.
  • the Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, the possibility of making an aqueous gel or a cream-gel comprising a large amount of starch, at least one emulsifying polymer and ethanol, which satisfies these needs.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 10% by weight of starch relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one emulsifying polymer, ethanol in an amount of from 5% to 30% by weight of relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one additional filler chosen from aerogel, perlite, and mixtures thereof.
  • the present invention describes a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 10% by weight of starch relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one emulsifying polymer and at least 5% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • physiologically acceptable medium means a medium that is non-toxic and that can be applied to the skin, the lips, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the nails, which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not give rise to any unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tautness or redness) liable to put the consumer off using this composition comprising such a support.
  • composition according to the invention is intended for topical application.
  • a composition according to the invention has the advantage of having good harmlessness and good cosmetic properties, i.e. a uniform, light and pleasant texture on application.
  • composition is stable over time.
  • a composition is stable if no change in its macroscopic or microscopic appearance or in its physicochemical characteristics (pH, viscosity) is observed after storing it at room temperature, at 40°C and at 45°C, for a period of two months.
  • a cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention also has the advantage not only of absorbing the water present in sweat (or perspiration), but also the oily materials, such as sebum, exuded by the skin, without, however, giving an impression of dryness.
  • composition according to the invention is stable while at the same time affording good matting and antiperspirant efficacy.
  • composition according to the invention spreads easily on the skin and penetrates rapidly therein.
  • composition according to the invention gives a very powdery skin finish without leaving white marks on application on the skin or on textiles that come into contact with the treated skin.
  • composition according to the invention can be used by any consumer, it more particularly satisfies the requirements of consumers living in countries whose climate is hot and humid for most of the year. Among these countries, mention may be made especially of those located in South-East Asia and Latin America, and also India.
  • a subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment process for caring for and/or making up facial and/or bodily skin, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to the skin.
  • a subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for reducing and/or limiting and/or preventing the flow of sweat from facial and/or bodily skin.
  • a subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for mattifying the skin and/or attenuating the sheen and/or glare of facial and/or bodily skin.
  • the size of the starch particles may range from 1 to 100 microns, preferably from 2 to 50 microns and more particularly from 5 to 30 microns.
  • starches that may be used in the present invention are, for example, corn starch, potato starch, tapioca starch, rice starch, wheat starch and cassava starch.
  • a modified starch is a starch that is been modified via processes known to those skilled in the art, for instance esterification, etherification, oxidation, acidic hydrolysis, crosslinking or enzymatic conversion.
  • Non-limiting examples of modified starches include aluminium starch octenylsuccinate, sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, distarch phosphate, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch and sodium starch glycolate.
  • starch that is suitable for use in the invention is a modified or unmodified starch and is chosen from a corn starch, a potato starch, a tapioca starch, a rice starch, a wheat starch, a cassava starch, aluminium starch octenylsuccinate, sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, distarch phosphate, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch and sodium starch glycolate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably corn starch.
  • the starch is a starch octenylsuccinate, in particular of aluminium, the starch being corn, wheat or rice starch. Mention may be made especially of the product sold by Akzo Nobel under the name Dry Flo Plus.
  • the starch that is suitable for use in the invention is in the form of starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name Dry-Flo by the company National Starch.
  • the starches are especially chosen from powders of unmodified starch such as corn starch.
  • the starch that is suitable for use in the invention is present in an amount of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably at least 13%) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the term "emulsifying polymer” is intended to denote a polymer having amphiphilic properties, i.e. having at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part. Hydrophilic groups and hydrophobic groups are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • polymer is intended to denote a compound comprising at least two repeating units and in particular at least five repeating units.
  • An emulsifying polymer may especially be a polymer derived from acrylic acid and/or at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one 2- acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) unit.
  • AMPS 2- acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid
  • Acrylic acid-based polymers (of Pemulen and Carbopol type)
  • the emulsifying polymer(s) according to the invention may be chosen from acrylic acid derivatives. These polymers comprise:
  • X + is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion;
  • Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-Ce alkyl radical (preferably methyl)
  • A denotes an ester or amide group or an oxygen atom
  • R4 denotes a linear or branched alkyl comprising m carbon atoms with m ranging from 6 to 30 and preferably from 10 to 25.
  • acrylic acid-derived amphiphilic polymers that are preferred according to the present invention, mention may be made of:
  • the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and ethoxylated alcohol dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 ® by the company Amerchol.
  • the acrylic acid-based polymer is in particular a non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and ethoxylated alcohol dimethyl meta- isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate.
  • the said emulsifying polymer is chosen from acrylic acid-based polymers, and in particular crosslinked copolymers of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of (meth) acrylic acid, for instance Pemulen TR1 ® and TR2 ® sold by the company Noveon.
  • Amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one 2- acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) unit
  • the fatty chain present in the said amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may preferably comprise from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 7 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention are especially chosen from amphiphilic polymers of at least one acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) monomer and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated comonomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 7 to 22 carbon atoms or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • AMPS acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid
  • amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention generally have a weight- average molecular weight ranging from 50 000 to 10 000 000 g/mol, in particular from 100 000 to 8 000 000 g/mol and even more particularly from 100 000 to 7 000 000 g/mol.
  • They may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
  • the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by free-radical polymerization.
  • the crosslinking agents may be chosen especially from methylenebis(acrylamide), allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).
  • the degree of crosslinking may range, for example, from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and preferably from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
  • An amphiphilic polymer that is suitable for use in the invention may comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomer chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalkylene or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures thereof.
  • An amphiphilic polymer according to the invention may comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic comonomer.
  • An amphiphilic polymer that is suitable for use in the invention may comprise at least one hydrophobic part chosen from saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl radicals, for instance n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl and oleyl, branched alkyl radicals, for instance isostearyl, or cyclic alkyl radicals, for instance cyclododecane or adamantane.
  • saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl radicals for instance n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl and oleyl, branched alkyl radicals, for instance isostearyl, or cyclic alkyl radicals, for instance cyclododecane or adamantane.
  • amphiphilic AMPS polymer may also contain at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic comonomer comprising, for example:
  • cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol-based radical (for example cholesteryl hexanoate)
  • naphthalene or pyrene a poly cyclic aromatic group, for instance naphthalene or pyrene
  • R a denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ⁇ -Ce alkyl radical, preferably methyl;
  • - Y denotes O or NH
  • R b denotes a hydrophobic radical comprising a fatty chain containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the hydrophobic radical R b is chosen from saturated or unsaturated linear C7-C22 alkyl radicals (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl), branched alkyl radicals (for example isostearic) or cyclic alkyl radicals (for example cyclododecane or adamantane); C7-C18 alkylperfluoro radicals (for example the group of formula (CH 2 )2-(CF 2 )9- CF 3 ); the cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol ester, for instance cholesteryl hexanoate; aromatic poly cyclic groups, for instance naphthalene or pyrene.
  • linear and branched alkyl radicals are more particularly preferred.
  • the hydrophobic radical R b may also comprise at least one alkylene oxide unit and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain.
  • the polyoxyalkylene chain may preferentially consist of ethylene oxide units and/or propylene oxide units and even more particularly consist solely of ethylene oxide units.
  • the number of moles of oxyalkylene units may generally range from 1 to 30 mol, more preferentially from 1 to 25 mol and even more preferentially from 3 to 20 mol.
  • - terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C 6 -
  • Ci 8 alkylacrylamide units relative to the polymer, such as those described in document US-A-5 089 578;
  • Amphiphilic AMPS polymers that may also be mentioned include copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl and/or n-octadecyl methacrylate, and also non-crosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide.
  • X is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion;
  • the cation X more particularly denotes sodium or ammonium.
  • R a denotes a methyl and R c represents a mixture of C12-C14 or C ⁇ -C ⁇ alkyl
  • R a denotes a methyl and R c represents a mixture of C ⁇ -C ⁇ alkyl.
  • AIBN azobisisobutyronitrile
  • ABAH 2,2-Azo-Bis-[2-Amidinopropane] Hydrochloride
  • organic peroxides such as dilauryl peroxide, benzoyl peroxide or tert-but
  • amphiphilic AMPS polymers may be obtained especially by free-radical polymerization in tert-butanol medium, in which they precipitate.
  • precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol it is possible to obtain a size distribution of the polymer particles that is particularly favourable for its uses.
  • the reaction may be performed at a temperature of between 0 and 150°C and preferably between 10 and 100°C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure.
  • It may also be performed under inert atmosphere, and preferably under nitrogen.
  • the amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may preferably be partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanol amine, triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for instance arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They may especially be totally or almost totally neutralized, i.e. at least 80% neutralized.
  • a mineral base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanol amine, triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for instance arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • a mineral base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanol amine
  • the molar percentage concentration of the units of formula (2) and of the units of formula (3) in the amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may vary as a function of the desired cosmetic application, for example the nature of the emulsion (oil-in- water or water-in-oil emulsion) and the rheological properties of the desired formulation. It may range, for example, between 0.1 mol% and 99.9 mol%.
  • the sparingly hydrophobic amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention will be more suitable for thickening and/or stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions.
  • the molar proportion of units of formula (3) may then preferably range from 0.1 mol% to 50 mol%, more particularly from 1 mol% to 25 mol% and even more particularly from 3 mol% to 10 mol%.
  • the more hydrophobic amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention will be more suitable for thickening and/or stabilizing water-in-oil emulsions.
  • the molar proportion of units of formula (3) may then preferably range from 50.1 mol% to 99.9 mol%, more particularly from 60 mol% to 95 mol% and even more particularly from 65 mol% to 90 mol%.
  • Aristoflex SNC 80/20 copolymer of AMPS/ethoxylated (8 mol EO) Ci 6 -Ci 8 alcohol methacrylate; CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer
  • Aristoflex HMB® copolymer of AMPS/ethoxylated (25 EO) behenyl methacrylate, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA)
  • the emulsifying polymer(s) that are suitable for use in the invention are generally present in the composition in an amount of from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and better still 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Ethanol is present in an amount of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably of at least 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably of at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, still more preferably of at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, still more preferably of at least 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, from 8% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and even better still from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the additional fillers that are suitable for use in the invention are used essentially to obtain a matt effect. They are usually chosen as a function of their noteworthy oil-absorbing properties and/or their efficient capacity for scattering light.
  • additional fillers that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from:
  • - powders of acrylic polymers especially of polymethyl methacrylate, poly(methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate), poly(allyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate), ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer,
  • silicone elastomer powders obtained especially by polymerization of organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon atom and of an organopolysiloxane comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups (especially two vinyl groups) in the presence of a platinum catalyst,
  • the additional filler is chosen among perlite, aerogel, talc and mixtures thereof, more preferably among perlite, aerogel, and mixtures thereof, and still more preferably among perlite, silica aerogel, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 10% by weight of starch relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one emulsifying polymer, ethanol in an amount of from 5% to 30% by weight of relative to the total weight of the composition at least one additional filler chosen from aerogel, perlite, and mixtures thereof
  • this composition may further comprise at least one other additional filler which is different from the one(s) which is(are) already contained in the composition.
  • This further additional filler is preferably talc.
  • the additional filler may be a powder coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent.
  • the hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from fatty acids, for instance stearic acid; metal soaps, for instance aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, mineral waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty acids for instance stearic acid
  • metal soaps for instance aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate
  • amino acids amino acids
  • N-acylamino acids or salts thereof lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, mineral waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
  • the salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
  • the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
  • the silicas that can be used may be natural and untreated. Mention may thus be made of the silicas sold under the names Sillitin N85®, Sillitin N87®, Sillitin N82®, Sillitin V85® and Sillitin V88® by the company Hoffmann Mineral.
  • They may be fumed silicas.
  • the fumed silicas may be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible especially to obtain hydrophilic silicas bearing a large number of silanol groups at their surface. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the said silica via a chemical reaction which brings about a reduction in the number of silanol groups. It is possible in particular to replace silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
  • the hydrophobic groups may be:
  • Nylon powder that may be mentioned is the Nylon powder sold under the name Orgasol® 4000 by the company Atochem.
  • Acrylic polymer powders that may be mentioned include:
  • the silicone elastomers are especially partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6 ® , KSG16 ® and KSG18 ® by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C ® and Trefil E-506C ® by the company Dow Corning, Gransil SR-CYC ® , SR DMF 10 ® , SR-DC556 ® , SR 5 CYC Gel ® , SR DMF 10 Gel ® and SR DC 556 Gel ® by the company Grant Industries, and SF 1204 ® and JK 113 ® by the company General Electric.
  • Silicone elastomer powders that may be mentioned include the powders sold under the names Trefil® Powder E-505C and Trefil® Powder E-506C by the company Dow Corning.
  • Silicone powders that may be mentioned include crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane gum beads coated with silsesquioxane resin, sold especially under the name KSP100 by Shin- Etsu, and powders of ovoid silicone resins especially such as the product sold under the name NLK-602 by Takemoto.
  • Boron nitride particles may be mentioned, such as PUHP1030L by Saint Gobain Ceramics, UHP-1010 by Carborundum, Ronaflair Extender by Merck, Covalumine Atlas White AS by Sensient, Boroneige 601 by ESK, PUHP3008 by Saint Gobain Ceramics.
  • Perlite is a natural glass of volcanic origin, of glossy black or light-grey colour, resulting from the rapid cooling of lava, and which is in the form of small particles resembling pearls when it is heated beyond 800°C.
  • the perlite particles according to the invention have a particle size distribution such that at least 50% of the particles are less than 25 ⁇ in size and preferably less than 20 ⁇ in size.
  • they preferentially have a particle size distribution such that 90% by weight of the particles are less than 55 ⁇ in size and preferably less than 40 ⁇ in size. It is moreover preferred for 90% by weight of the particles to be greater than 5 ⁇ in size.
  • perlite When it is present in the composition of the invention, perlite may be in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Clays are products that are already well known per se, which are described, for example, in the publication Mineralogie des argiles [Mineralogy of clays], S. Caillere, S. Henin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition, 1982, Masson, the teaching of which is included herein by way of reference.
  • Clays are silicates containing a cation that may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.
  • Examples of such products that may be mentioned include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, and also of the family of vermiculites, stevensite and chlorites.
  • the clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.
  • clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin fibres such as the hair are used.
  • the clay may be chosen from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof.
  • the clay is a bentonite or a hectorite.
  • the clays may be chosen from organophilic clays.
  • Organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organophilic clays according to the invention are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines.
  • Organophilic clays that may be mentioned include quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone® 3, Bentone® 38 and Bentone® 38V by the company Elementis, Tixogel® VP by the company United Catalyst, and Claytone® 34, Claytone® 40 and Claytone® XL by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone® 27V by the company Elementis, Tixogel® LG by the company United Catalyst, and Claytone® AF and Claytone® APA by the company Southern Clay and quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone® HT and Claytone® PS by the company Southern Clay.
  • quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone® 3, Bentone® 38 and Bentone® 38V by the company Elementis, Tixogel® VP by the company United Catalyst, and Claytone® 34, Claytone® 40 and Claytone®
  • the organophilic clay is in particular chosen from modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with a Cw-Cn fatty acid ammonium chloride, especially distearyldimethylammonium chloride and stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • the clays are especially chosen from montmorillonites and kaolin.
  • the particles have a number-average size of between 50 nm and 350 microns, better still between 100 nm and 100 microns and even more preferentially between 0.5 and 100 microns.
  • Aerogels are ultra-light porous materials.
  • the first aerogels were made by Kristler in 1932. They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO 2 . This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
  • Other types of drying also make it possible to obtain porous materials from gel, namely cryodesiccation, which consists in solidifying the gel at low temperature and then in subliming the solvent, and drying by evaporation. The materials thus obtained are then known, respectively, as cryogels and xerogels.
  • the sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker CI, and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York: Academic Press, 1990.
  • the aerogel particles in accordance with the present invention are hydrophobic aerogel particles.
  • hydrophobic aerogel particle means any particle of the aerogel type having a water absorption capacity at the wet point of less than 0.1 ml/g, i.e. less than 10 g of water per 100 g of particle.
  • wet point weight expressed in grams per 100 g of product corresponding to the production of a homogeneous paste during the addition of a solvent to a powder.
  • Aerogels based on organic-mineral hybrids for example silica-PMMA, silica- chitosan and silica-poly ether, are also envisaged.
  • Patent applications US 2005/0192366 and WO 2007/126410 describe such organic-mineral hybrid materials.
  • the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S M ) ranging from 200 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, and a size, expressed as volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]), of less than 1500 ⁇ and preferably ranging from 1 to 30 ⁇ , preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • S M specific surface area per unit of mass
  • D[0.5] volume-mean diameter
  • the specific surface area per unit of mass may be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, which corresponds to international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D).
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
  • the sizes of the aerogel particles according to the invention may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non- spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is in particular described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tapped density p ranging from 0.02 g/cm 3 to 0.10 g/cm 3 and preferably from 0.02 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 .
  • the absorption capacity measured at the wet point corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
  • the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
  • sol-gel processes are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
  • the sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J., and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York: Academic Press, 1990.
  • the additional filler that is suitable for use in the invention is chosen from aerogel, perlite, and mixtures thereof. According to a still more preferred embodiment, the additional filler that is suitable for use in the invention is chosen from silica aerogel, perlite, and mixtures thereof.
  • the additional fillers that are suitable for use in the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight and most preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an aqueous gel or a cream-gel.
  • compositions according to the invention may also be in the form of more or less thick creams, and they may or may not flow under their own weight depending on their viscosity.
  • compositions according to the invention may also be in the form of lotions, creams or fluid gels dispensed as an aerosol spray, in a pump-dispenser bottle or as a roll-on, in the form of thick creams dispensed in a tube or in a grid; in the form of wands (sticks) or in a jar, and, in this regard, may contain ingredients generally used in products of this type and well known to a person skilled in the art.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise an amount of aqueous phase greater than or equal to 40% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 45%, or even 50% by weight, this amount possibly ranging, for example, from 40% to 99% by weight and preferably from 50% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise an amount of water greater than or equal to 35% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 40%, or even 45% by weight, this amount possibly ranging, for example, from 35% to 95% by weight and preferably from 45% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase may contain, besides water, one or more water- soluble solvents chosen from polyols (or polyhydric alcohols) and water-soluble lower alcohol(s), and mixtures thereof.
  • lower alcohol means an alcohol comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms.
  • polyols examples include glycerol; glycols such as pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, and polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; sorbitol; sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose and sucrose; and mixtures thereof.
  • lower alcohols examples include ethanol, as mentioned previously, isopropanol and butanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the solvent(s) may be in an amount ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 6% to 50% by weight and better still from 8% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
  • these adjuvants and the concentrations thereof must be such that they do not modify the property desired for the composition of the invention.
  • the aqueous phase contains at least one lower alcohol, which may especially be ethanol.
  • the amount of lower alcohol such as ethanol may range, for example, from 5% to 30% by weight and preferably from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition is compatible with the skin and preferably ranges from 5 to 7.5 and better still from 5.5 to 7.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase (or oily phase).
  • the nature of the fatty phase of the emulsion is not critical.
  • the fatty phase may thus consist of any non-waxy fatty substance conventionally used in cosmetics or dermatology; it especially comprises at least one oil, a fatty substance that is liquid at 25°C.
  • oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:
  • oils of plant origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;
  • esters and ethers especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formulae R a COOR b and R a OR b in which R a represents a fatty acid residue containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R b represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or triisocetyl citrate; fatty alcohol heptanoates, octano
  • substantially linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as volatile or non- volatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane or hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam® oil;
  • liquid fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol;
  • Fluoro oils that may also be mentioned include perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-l,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec PCI ® and Flutec PC3 ® by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2- dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050 ® and PF 5060 ® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl ® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane sold under the name MSX 4518 ® by the company 3M and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-
  • silicone oils for instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a substantially linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones, for instance phenyl trimethi cones, phenyl dimethi cones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes
  • hydrocarbon-based oiF means any oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
  • the oily phase may be in an amount of not more than 10%, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 9% by weight and better still from 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise any adjuvant or additive usually used in the fields under consideration and especially in cosmetics.
  • preserving agents include sequestrants (EDTA); antioxidants; fragrances; dyestuffs such as soluble dyes, pigments and nacres; tensioning agents; bleaching agents; exfoliants; organic or physical sunscreens; polymers; electrolytes; non-polymeric emulsifiers; thickeners and gelling agents.
  • EDTA sequestrants
  • fragrances such as soluble dyes, pigments and nacres
  • tensioning agents such as soluble dyes, pigments and nacres
  • tensioning agents such as soluble dyes, pigments and nacres
  • tensioning agents such as soluble dyes, pigments and nacres
  • tensioning agents such as soluble dyes, pigments and nacres
  • tensioning agents such as soluble dyes, pigments and nacres
  • tensioning agents such as soluble dyes, pigments and nacres
  • tensioning agents such as soluble dyes, pigments and nacres
  • tensioning agents such as soluble dyes
  • the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and are for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of active agents depends on the desired aim.
  • the active agent(s) may be present, for example, in a concentration ranging from 0.001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention is intended for topical application.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up the skin and especially the face. It may thus be an eyeshadow or a face powder.
  • composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a product for the lips.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for caring for bodily or facial skin, in particular facial skin.
  • compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.
  • Phase I is homogenized thoroughly.
  • Phase II is dispersed in the thoroughly homogenized phase I.
  • Phase II is neutralized by adding phase III.
  • phase IV is added to the mixture obtained.
  • phase V is non-pulverulent, is easy and pleasant to apply to facial and bodily skin and affords a fresh sensation on application.
  • the composition affords a long-lasting mattifying effect combined with an antiperspirant effect.
  • a lightening ⁇ fairness) effect is moreover visible after 5 days of application.
  • Phase II is heated to 75-80°C
  • Phase I is poured gently onto phase II.
  • Phases I and II are mixed.
  • phase ⁇ is dispersed for about 1 hour.
  • composition obtained which is non-pulverulent, is easy and pleasant to apply to facial and bodily skin and affords a fresh sensation on application.
  • composition affords a long-lasting mattifying effect combined with an antiperspirant effect and an anti-UV effect.
  • a lightening ⁇ fairness) effect is visible after 5 days of application.

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Abstract

Cette invention concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins 13 % en poids d'amidon par rapport au poids total de la composition, au moins un polymère émulsifiant et de l'éthanol en une quantité de 5 à 30 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition ainsi qu'une composition cosmétique comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins 10 % en poids d'amidon par rapport au poids total de la composition, au moins un polymère émulsifiant, de l'éthanol en une quantité de 5 à 30 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition et au moins une charge supplémentaire choisie parmi un aérogel, de la perlite, et leurs mélanges. Cette invention concerne également l'utilisation cosmétique de ces compositions pour réduire et/ou limiter et/ou prévenir le flux de transpiration de la peau du visage et/ou du corps, et également pour matifier la peau et/ou atténuer la brillance et/ou la luisance de la peau du visage et/ou du corps. Un procédé de traitement cosmétique pour le soin et/ou le maquillage de la peau du visage et/ou du corps est en outre décrit.
PCT/IB2014/062662 2013-06-27 2014-06-27 Gel émulsifié à base d'amidon de type pemulen WO2014207715A2 (fr)

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CN108472222A (zh) * 2015-12-24 2018-08-31 欧莱雅 皮肤清洁组合物
CN114569492A (zh) * 2021-08-27 2022-06-03 中山中研化妆品有限公司 一种降温组合物及其制备方法和应用
EP4082617A4 (fr) * 2019-12-23 2024-01-24 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Produit cosmétique solide en poudre

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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CN108472222A (zh) * 2015-12-24 2018-08-31 欧莱雅 皮肤清洁组合物
EP4082617A4 (fr) * 2019-12-23 2024-01-24 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Produit cosmétique solide en poudre
CN114569492A (zh) * 2021-08-27 2022-06-03 中山中研化妆品有限公司 一种降温组合物及其制备方法和应用
CN114569492B (zh) * 2021-08-27 2024-02-06 中山中研化妆品有限公司 一种降温组合物及其制备方法和应用

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