WO2007020536A2 - Procede cosmetique pour le ciblage de rides - Google Patents

Procede cosmetique pour le ciblage de rides Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2007020536A2
WO2007020536A2 PCT/IB2006/003359 IB2006003359W WO2007020536A2 WO 2007020536 A2 WO2007020536 A2 WO 2007020536A2 IB 2006003359 W IB2006003359 W IB 2006003359W WO 2007020536 A2 WO2007020536 A2 WO 2007020536A2
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
particles
composition
active principle
agents
extracts
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PCT/IB2006/003359
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English (en)
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WO2007020536A3 (fr
Inventor
Guillaume Cassin
Jean-Thierry Simonnet
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L'oréal
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Publication date
Priority claimed from FR0553122A external-priority patent/FR2892019B1/fr
Application filed by L'oréal filed Critical L'oréal
Priority to EP06809252A priority Critical patent/EP1901700A2/fr
Priority to US11/994,891 priority patent/US20080206292A1/en
Priority to JP2008520986A priority patent/JP2009501209A/ja
Publication of WO2007020536A2 publication Critical patent/WO2007020536A2/fr
Publication of WO2007020536A3 publication Critical patent/WO2007020536A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0279—Porous; Hollow
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/606—Nucleosides; Nucleotides; Nucleic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88—Polyamides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/56—Compounds, absorbed onto or entrapped into a solid carrier, e.g. encapsulated perfumes, inclusion compounds, sustained release forms
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing

Definitions

  • a subject-matter of the present invention is a cosmetic method for caring for wrinkled skin, for the purpose of softening the wrinkles, comprising the successive stages: (a) of topical application to the wrinkled areas of a first composition including a pulverulent phase comprising porous particles which comprise at least one antiwrinkle active principle adsorbed on and/or absorbed in the said particles, the said composition being substantially devoid of solvent for the said active principle, and (b) of topical application to the skin of the face comprising at least the said areas of a second composition including a fatty and/or aqueous phase comprising a solvent for the said active principle.
  • the Applicant Company has discovered that it is possible to meet this need by providing a cosmetic method with at least two stages preferably employing a compact powder in its first stage and a cream or a gel in its second stage. This method makes it possible to specifically target the wrinkles by carrying antiwrinkle active principles to the heart of the wrinkles while conferring, on the whole face, an overall improvement in its appearance.
  • the HAPPI database (January 2004), accessible via the Internet, reveals a composition in the form of a pressed powder for the face comprising a dry binder and a pulverulent phase including nylon particles impregnated with hyaluronic acid having a mean particle size of 5 ⁇ m (Orgasol 2002 N5 HY COS) .
  • Patent US-5 876 758 (Examples 17 and 20) reveals anhydrous depigmenting compact powders for the face comprising nylon particles of approximately 20 ⁇ m on which magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is adsorbed.
  • compositions intended for the targeting of active compounds in the pilosebaceous unit for the purpose of treating in particular problems of greasy skin and of hair loss. It is furthermore indicated that the pilosebaceous unit constitutes a potential route of passage for agents of anti-deep-wrinkle type.
  • These compositions include porous particles having a mean diameter by volume of less than or equal to 10 ⁇ m which can themselves comprise antiwrinkle active principles, such as vitamin C.
  • These compositions can optionally occur in the form of compact powders, thus comprising binders and a pulverulent phase including the abovementioned particles .
  • microcapsules of 20 to 40 ⁇ m available commercially from Cognis under the reference Active Powders and disclosed in Application US 2003/0180369 are known.
  • the product Active Powders Firmness LS 9689 is composed of such microcapsules carrying a pea extract with antielastase activity and is presented as suitable for incorporation in anhydrous make-up products, such as pressed powders, for the purpose of enhancing the firmness of the skin.
  • compositions optionally in the powder form, which deliver active principles to the stratum corneum, the top layer of the epidermis.
  • These compositions comprise an exfoliating agent, in particular salicylic acid, adsorbed on or in a supporting material, such as a polyamide, having a particle size such that at least 80% of the particles do not exceed 20 ⁇ m and preferably of greater than 10 ⁇ m.
  • the particles of the supporting material have the role of protecting the exfoliating agent in the event of incompatibility with other active principles of the composition.
  • They include the exfoliating agent, optionally in the form dissolved or dispersed in a hydrophilic supporting medium, such as water, an alcohol or an ether.
  • the application of this whitening composition can be preceded by the application to the skin of a moisturizing base.
  • composition illustrated in the HAPPI database is not intended to be covered by a second composition of cream or gel type but, on the contrary, is intended to be applied above a day cream in order to beautify the complexion.
  • the hyaluronic acid thus deposited on the skin will remain on the surface of the epidermis and, for lack of massaging, cannot penetrate into the wrinkles .
  • EP-I 493 433 exclusively envisages that the release of active principles adsorbed on and/or absorbed in the particles be carried out by simply bringing the particles into contact with the sebum present in the pilosebaceous follicles.
  • the compositions of EP-I 493 433 are used to target wrinkles of the face, they are applied to people exhibiting instead (in the case of postmenopausal women in particular) hypo- seborrhoea and/or to skin areas generally poor in sebum (in contrast to the ridges of the nose, for example) . Inadequate release of the active principle absorbed on the particles will ensue.
  • microcapsules with an aqueous core disclosed in Application US 2003/0180369 are capable of releasing the active principle which they comprise without an additional stage.
  • these microcapsules allow only hydrophilic active principles to be carried.
  • they include water, which renders them sensitive to evaporation.
  • a subject matter of the invention is thus a cosmetic method for caring for wrinkled skin, for the purpose of softening the wrinkles, comprising the successive stages: (a) of topical application to the wrinkled areas of a first composition including a pulverulent phase comprising porous particles which comprise at least one antiwrinkle active principle adsorbed on and/or absorbed in the said particles, the said composition being substantially devoid of solvent for the said active principle, and (b) of topical application to the skin of the face comprising at least the said areas of a second composition including a fatty and/or aqueous phase comprising a solvent for the said active principle.
  • the application of the first composition makes it possible to visualize the areas of skin treated. That of the second composition makes it possible to homogenize the distribution of the particles charged with active principle, to make them penetrate to the bottom of the wrinkles under the effect of the massaging carried out and to release the vectorized active principle on its site of action.
  • the powders deposited on the skin in the first stage become invisible under the effect of the wetting by the second composition and the wrinkles may be immediately smoothed out in the case where one and/or other of the compositions include (s) fillers with a soft focus effect.
  • the method according to the invention makes it possible to soften the wrinkles both immediately, by an optical effect, and in the longer term, in a lasting fashion, due to the biological effect of the vectorized active principle.
  • Another advantage of the present invention is that of making it possible to provide the skin with a large amount of fillers, useful for their effects in optically masking the wrinkles, without discomfort, in comparison with a method comprising the application of a single composition.
  • Yet another advantage of the present invention is that of making it possible to specifically treat the skin areas requiring specific care while conferring, on the entire skin of the face, a lighter, more matt and more uniform complexion, for example by introducing, into the second composition, active principles and/or fillers which make it possible to obtain these effects.
  • stages of the above method are not exclusive, it is also possible to anticipate an intermediate stage between the first and the second stages comprising the application, to the skin, of a composition intended to be applied to the T-area of the face in order specifically to target the pores, such as those disclosed in Application EP-I 493 433, comprising porous particles charged with antiseborrhoeic active principle, for example. It would thus be possible to provide a specific anti-ageing kit for greasy skin.
  • the term "antiwrinkle active principle” is understood to mean a compound of natural or synthetic origin which produces a biological effect, such as an increase in the synthesis and/or in the activity of certain enzymes, when it is brought into contact with an area of wrinkled skin, this effect having the consequence of reducing the outward show of the wrinkles and/or fine lines .
  • antiwrinkle active principles which can be used in the present invention can be chosen from: desquamating agents; antiglycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents which stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or which prevent their decomposition; agents which stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes; agents which stimulate or reduce the differentiation of keratinocytes; muscle relaxants and/or dermo- decontracting agents; agents for combating free radicals; and their mixtures.
  • additional compounds are: adenosine and its derivatives; retinol and its derivatives, such as retinyl palmitate; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; tocopherol and its derivatives, such as tocopheryl acetate; nicotinic acid and its precursors, such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors, such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives, such as disclosed in particular in Application EP-I 345 919, especially C- ⁇ - D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, such as disclosed in particular in Application EP-I 345 919; plant extracts and in particular rock samphire extracts and olive leaf extracts, and also plant proteins and their hydro- lysates, such as rice or soybean protein hydrolysates; algal extracts and in
  • adenosine derivatives of non-phosphated adenosine derivatives, such as in particular: 2 ' -deoxyadenosine; 2',3'-iso- propylideneadenosine; toyocamycin; 1-methyladenosine; N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide; 6-methyl- mercaptopurine riboside; and 6-chloropurine riboside.
  • 2 ' -deoxyadenosine such as in particular: 2 ' -deoxyadenosine; 2',3'-iso- propylideneadenosine; toyocamycin; 1-methyladenosine; N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide; 6-methyl- mercaptopurine riboside; and 6-chloropurine riboside.
  • adenosine derivatives comprise adenosine receptor agonists, including phenylisopropyladenosine ("PIA") / 1-methylisoguanosine, N s -cyclohexyladenosine (CHA) , N 6 -cyclopentyladenosine (CPA) , 2-chloro-N s -cyclopentyl- adenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N 6 -phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N e -phenethyladenosine, 2-p- (2-carboxyethyl) phenethylamino-5' -N-ethylcarboxamido- adenosine (CGS-21680) , (N-ethylcarboxamido) adenosine - S -
  • adenosine derivatives comprise compounds which increase the intracellular concentration of adenosine, such as erythro-9- (2-hydroxy-3-nonyl) adenine ("EHNA”) and iodotubercidin.
  • EHNA erythro-9- (2-hydroxy-3-nonyl) adenine
  • iodotubercidin erythro-9- (2-hydroxy-3-nonyl) adenine
  • adenosine derivatives comprise its salts and alkyl esters.
  • C-glycoside derivative is understood to mean in particular the compounds disclosed in Application EP-I 345 919, corresponding to the following formula (I) :
  • S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide up to 20 sugar units, in the pyranose and/or furanose form and of the L and/or D series, the said mono- or polysaccharide exhibiting at least one necessarily free hydroxyl functional group and/or optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups
  • the S-CH 2 -X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature
  • R represents an alkyl, perfluoroalkyl or hydrofluoroalkyl chain which is linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, a cycloalkyl, cycloperfluoroalkyl or cyclohydrofluoroalkyl ring, comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or a phenyl or benzyl radical, it being possible for the said chain, the said ring or the said radical optionally to be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms chosen from oxygen, sulphur, nitrogen or silicon and optionally to be substituted by at least one radical chosen from -OR'i, -SR"i, -NR'" 1 R' 2 , -COOR" 2 , -CONHR'" 2 , -CN, halogen, perfluoroalkyl or hydrofluoroalkyl and/or at least one cycloalkyl, aryl or heterocyclic radical which are optionally substituted, - R' , R 1 and R 2 ,
  • R'i, R' 2 , R"i, R" 2 , R '" I and R ' " 2 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a radical chosen from an alkyl, hydroxyl, perfluoroalkyl and/or hydrofluoroalkyl radical which is linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated and which comprises from 1 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the first composition used according to the invention comprises particles which have a porous nature which allows them to adsorb a sufficient amount of active principle. They are preferably spherical or substantially spherical and advantageously have a mean diameter, by volume, of greater than 10 ⁇ m and of less than 100 ⁇ m, advantageously of between 10 and 50 ⁇ m, indeed even ranging from 20 to 50 ⁇ m.
  • the mean size by volume of the particles can be measured by various techniques. Mention may in particular be made of light scattering techniques
  • the sizes and size distributions of the particles of the compositions according to the invention are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle sizer of MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of nonspherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work by Van de Hulst, H. C, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the particles of the composition are characterized by their mean "effective" diameter by volume D [4, 3], defined in the following way:
  • Vi represents the volume of the particles with an effective diameter di . . This parameter is described in particular in the technical documentation of the particle sizer.
  • the measurements are carried out at 25 0 C on a dilute dispersion of particles obtained from the composition in the following way: 1) dilution by a factor of 100 with the predominant solvent of the phase to be analysed, 2) homogenization of the solution, 3) standing of the solution for 18 hours, 4) recovery of the off-white homogeneous supernatant.
  • the "effective" diameter is obtained by taking a refractive index of 1.33 for the water and a mean refractive index for the particles which depends on their chemical nature and which is, for example, 1.53 for nylon and 1.45 for silica.
  • the refractive index of the particles can be determined experimentally by the
  • the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method is a method well known to a person skilled in the art. It is described in particular in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794/1
  • the specific surface measured according to the BET method corresponds to the total specific surface, that is to say that it includes the surface area formed by the pores.
  • Use may be made, as polyamide particles, for example, of particles of nylon 6, of nylon 6,6, of nylon 12 or of nylon 6,12, in particular particles of nylon 12, having a mean particle diameter of 20 ⁇ m, sold in particular by Arkema under the trade name Orgasol 2002 D NAT COS 204.
  • silica particles of amorphous silica microspheres of 20 ⁇ m sold in particular by Asahi Glass under the trade name Sunsphere H-201.
  • the particles used according to the invention can, if appropriate, be treated at the surface with at least one hydrophobic treatment agent, in particular a non- fluorinated hydrophobic treatment agent, provided that they remain porous .
  • This hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen in particular from: silicones, such as methicones or dimethicones; - fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminium dimyristate or the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; - lecithin, isopropyl titanium triisostearate; and their mixtures .
  • the N-acylated amino acids can comprise an acyl group comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl and cocoyl group.
  • the salts of these compounds can be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
  • the amino acid can, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
  • the porous particles can be present in the first composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight and preferentially ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the antiwrinkle active principle can represent at least 0.5%, preferably at least 1% and more preferentially at least 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the particles present in the first composition. In addition, the antiwrinkle active principle can represent at most 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the particles present in the first composition.
  • the antiwrinkle active principle is present at least partially within the said particles, for example present in a proportion of at least 50% and preferably of at least 70% by weight, more preferably of at least 90% by weight, within the said particles, with respect to the total weight of the active principle present in the first composition.
  • the particles including the active principle are capable of being obtained according to an impregnation process comprising the following stages:
  • a volatile solvent such as water, acetone, isopropanol, dichloromethane or ethanol
  • an impregnation solution the impregnation of the particles by the said impregnation solution, the evaporation of the solvent until a dry powder is obtained.
  • volatile is understood to mean a compound which is liquid at a temperature of greater than or equal to 20 0 C and which has a vapour pressure of greater than 1 mbar at 20 0 C.
  • the vapour pressure is defined as the pressure at which a liquid and its vapour are in equilibrium.
  • the first composition according to the invention can also comprise pigments and/or fillers, in particular when it is in the form of a compact powder.
  • pigments should be understood as meaning white or coloured and inorganic or organic particles of any shape which are insoluble in the composition and which are intended to colour it.
  • pigments of titanium dioxide, optionally treated at the surface, zirconium or cerium oxides, and also zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders, such as aluminium powder or copper powder.
  • the pigments can also be chosen from metal oxide nanopigments, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide and their mixtures.
  • the term "nanopigments” is understood to mean pigments having a mean particle size ranging from 1 nm to 500 nm and preferably ranging from 10 nm to 100 nm.
  • the pigments can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 12% by weight and preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the first composition used according to the invention can comprise an additional pulverulent colouring material other than the pigments described above which can in particular be chosen from pearlescent agents.
  • pearlescent agents should be understood as meaning iridescent particles of any shape produced in particular by certain shellfish in their shells or else synthesized.
  • the pearlescent agents can be chosen from white pearlescent agents, such as mica covered with titanium oxide or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent agents, such as titanium oxide-coated mica covered with iron oxides, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide or titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also pearlescent agents based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • the pearlescent agents can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 40% by weight and preferentially from 0.1% to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the first composition used according to the invention can, in addition or alternatively, comprise fillers other than the porous particles, the pearlescent agents and the pigments described above.
  • fillers should be understood as meaning colourless or white and inorganic or organic particles which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured, and which do not colour the composition.
  • the fillers can be of any shape, platelet, spherical, hemispherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorombic, and the like) . Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly- ⁇ -alanine and polyethylene powders, powders formed of tetrafluoroethylene polymers
  • Expancel ® Nobel Industrie
  • acrylic acid copolymers silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls ® from Toshiba, for example)
  • particles of polyorganosiloxane elastomers precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulphate, aluminium oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres and glass or ceramic microcapsules.
  • the fillers chosen from: - silicone resin powders, such as, for example, Silicone Resin Tospearl 145A from GE Silicone, with a mean size of 4.5 ⁇ m;
  • polyethylene powders in particular comprising at least one ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer and especially composed of ethylene/acrylic acid copolymers, such as, for example, Flobeads EA 209 particles from Sumitomo (with a mean size of 10 ⁇ m) ;
  • Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by Shin-Etsu;
  • This composition can also comprise metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.
  • the fillers can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 95% by weight, preferably from 1% to 85% by weight and preferentially from 1% to 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty phase of the first composition used according to the invention is a fatty phase at ambient temperature (25°C) composed of water-insoluble liquid or waxy compounds which do not have surfactant properties within the meaning of the McCutcheon and CTFA dictionaries.
  • This fatty phase can comprise in particular one or more oils and/or waxes commonly used in compact powders .
  • oils and waxes which can be used, of soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil or groundnut oil; hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid paraffins, squalane, liquid petrolatum or polydecene; fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isodecyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl lactate, di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate
  • the first composition can comprise other ingredients (adjuvants) commonly used in cosmetics, such as preservatives, UV screening agents, thickeners, surfactants or fragrances.
  • adjuvants commonly used in cosmetics, such as preservatives, UV screening agents, thickeners, surfactants or fragrances.
  • the first composition used according to the invention is substantially devoid of solvent for the active principle .
  • this expression is understood as meaning that this composition comprises less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and better still less than 0.5% by weight of a compound, liquid at a temperature of between 20 and 37°C, in which the active principle can be dissolved (that is to say, forms a true solution) to a level of at least 0.1% by weight at a temperature of between 20 and 37 0 C by simple stirring with a magnetic bar.
  • the first composition used according to the invention is an anhydrous composition, that is to say a composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, indeed even less than 2% by weight of water, better still less than 0.5% by weight of water, in particular devoid of water.
  • composition is advantageously provided in the form of a compact powder which can be prepared by mixing the ingredients of the pulverulent phase (particles of polyamide, fillers, pearlescent agents and pigments, which are optional) and by then adding the fatty phase with stirring, the mixture subsequently being milled (for example with a powder blender of Baker type) , sieved and then poured into a dish and compacted.
  • the milled and sieved mixture of the pulverulent phase and of the fatty phase is, for example, compacted using a press, in particular by applying a pressure ranging from 0.5 MPa to 10 MPa and preferably ranging from 1 MPa to 5 MPa.
  • the compact powder can in particular be applied to the skin using a sponge or a powder puff.
  • the first composition used according to the invention can be provided in a form similar to modelling clay and can, in this case, comprise up to 40% by weight of binder.
  • the first composition can be in the form of a cast product, generally obtained by mixing the ingredients under hot conditions until a liquid is obtained, which liquid is subsequently cast (still under hot conditions) in a receptacle. After returning to ambient temperature, the composition, which has set solid, can be applied to the skin using a powder puff, a sponge, a brush or the finger.
  • the method according to the invention comprises a second stage of topical application to the skin of the face (comprising at least the areas treated during the first stage) of a second composition including a fatty and/or aqueous phase comprising a solvent for the said active principle.
  • This second composition is thus suited to releasing the active principle absorbed in the porous particles described above.
  • the amount of solvent for the active principle depends on the level of active principle present in the second composition and is adjusted so as to release a maximum amount of active principle on contact with the skin, optionally in combination with the water naturally present on the skin when the active principle is hydrophilic.
  • the nature of the solvent depends on that of the active principle.
  • the solvent can in particular be chosen from water, ethanol, glycols or oils which are physiologically acceptable.
  • physiologically acceptable is understood to mean that the solvent is compatible with the skin.
  • the solvent is cosmetically acceptable, that is to say that it is not capable, at the level at which it is used in the second composition, of causing unacceptable discomfort
  • the second composition can be provided in all the formulation forms conventionally used for topical application and in particular in the form of dispersions of the lotion or gel type, of emulsions with a liquid or semiliquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (0/W) or vice versa (W/0) , or of suspensions or emulsions with a soft, semisolid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or also of multiple (W/O/W or 0/W/O) emulsions, of microemulsions, of vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type, or of wax/aqueous phase dispersions.
  • These compositions are prepared according to the standard methods .
  • the composition is provided in the form of an O/W emulsion.
  • it is provided in the form of a W/0 emulsion including at least 50% by weight of internal aqueous phase, which can in particular be obtained according to the "phase inversion temperature (PIT)" technique.
  • PIT phase inversion temperature
  • This composition can additionally comprise various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as emulsifiers, including glyceryl fatty acid esters, optionally polyoxyethylenated sugar fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters and sorbitan fatty acid esters; fillers, in particular fillers with a soft focus effect, such as colloidal dispersions of silica or of silica/alumina composite filler, or also polyamide fibres; preservatives; sequestering agents; colorants; fragrances; and thickening and gelling agents, in particular acrylamide homo- and copolymers, acrylic homo- and copolymers and acrylamidomethyl- propanesulphonic acid (AMPS) homo- and copolymers.
  • emulsifiers including glyceryl fatty acid esters, optionally polyoxyethylenated sugar fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters and sorbitan fatty acid esters
  • fillers in particular fillers
  • antiwrinkle active principles chosen in particular from those listed above and/or active principles having other properties, in particular antibacterial, antiseborrhoeic, soothing, depigmenting or moisturizing properties, without this list being limiting.
  • a kit is prepared which comprises two products intended to be applied successively to the skin having the following composition:
  • Product 1 Powder compact
  • Polyamide 12 particles comprising 5% by weight of adenosine 20 %
  • the charged polyamide particles are prepared in the following way: a solution is prepared comprising 2 g of adenosine, 100 ml of water, 0.5 g of an ethylene oxide/ propylene oxide/ethylene oxide copolymer (128 EO/54 OP/ 128 EO - Poloxamer 338 from Uniqema) and 5 g of a IN hydrochloric acid solution. This solution is kept stirred at ambient temperature until the active principle has completely dissolved. 38 g of nylon 12
  • the compact powder comprising these charged particles is subsequently prepared in a way conventional to a person skilled in the art according to a process comprising the preparation of the loose bulk powder, the sieving of the powder at 250 ⁇ m and the compacting of the powder in a dish.
  • Product 2 Cream gel
  • composition of this product is indicated in INCI names :
  • Phases A and B are homogenized at ambient temperature and then the emulsion is prepared by introducing phase A into phase B with vigorous stirring.
  • the kit obtained can be used in the following way: product 1 is applied each morning to the wrinkles of the crow' s foot and of the forehead using a sponge and then product 2 is applied over the whole of the face, including the forehead, by massaging with the fingertips.
  • a test during which the cosmetic quality and the immediate effects of a double-action product as prepared according to Example 1 were evaluated was carried out on 6 female volunteers having wrinkles and fine lines on the outline of the eyes.
  • the mode of application was as follows:
  • the serum is subsequently applied in the proportion of a pump-action spray pressure equivalent to a deposition of 100 ⁇ l to the area of the underside of the eye and of the crow's foot where the compact powder was deposited beforehand. Mixing is immediate. Penetration of the product is brought about by smoothing movements until a curbing effect is noticed under the fingers.
  • the bags are accentuated when the powder is applied; by virtue of the mechanical action of the serum on the wrinkles, the skin is tauter, like a face lift, and loosening is reduced.
  • the skin is immediately smoothed and tauter. This effect is particularly visible on pronounced wrinkles and thin skin, which react better to the concealing effect produced by the compact powder and the tautening effect produced by the serum.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention a trait à un procédé cosmétique pour le soin de peau ridée, en vue d'adoucir les rides, comprenant les étapes successives suivantes: (a) l'application topique aux zones ridées d'une première composition comportant une phase pulvérulente comprenant des particules poreuses qui contiennent au moins un principe actif antirides au moins absorbé en partie dans lesdites particules, ladite composition étant sensiblement exempte de solvant pour ledit principe actif, et (b) l'application topique à la peau du visage incluant au moins lesdites zones d'une deuxième composition comprenant une phase grasse et/ou aqueuse contenant un solvant pour ledit principe actif.
PCT/IB2006/003359 2005-07-12 2006-07-04 Procede cosmetique pour le ciblage de rides WO2007020536A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP06809252A EP1901700A2 (fr) 2005-07-12 2006-07-04 Procede cosmetique pour le ciblage de rides
US11/994,891 US20080206292A1 (en) 2005-10-14 2006-07-04 Cosmetic Method for Targeting of Wrinkles
JP2008520986A JP2009501209A (ja) 2005-07-12 2006-07-04 シワの処理のための美容方法

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US69795805P 2005-07-12 2005-07-12
US60/697,958 2005-07-12
FR0553122A FR2892019B1 (fr) 2005-10-14 2005-10-14 Procede de traitement des rides et kit de mise en oeuvre
FR0553122 2005-10-14

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2007020536A2 true WO2007020536A2 (fr) 2007-02-22
WO2007020536A3 WO2007020536A3 (fr) 2007-07-19

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Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1901700A2 (fr)
JP (1) JP2009501209A (fr)
WO (1) WO2007020536A2 (fr)

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2924941A1 (fr) * 2007-12-18 2009-06-19 Oreal Procede cosmetique de soin d'une peau ridee
FR2924932A1 (fr) * 2007-12-18 2009-06-19 Oreal Ciblage des rides par application de compositions fluides
JP2010163434A (ja) * 2009-01-15 2010-07-29 L'oreal Sa レチノイド、アデノシンに基づく非ホスフェート化化合物および半結晶性ポリマーを含有する化粧料組成物または皮膚科学的組成物
WO2011121540A1 (fr) 2010-04-01 2011-10-06 L'oreal Procédé de soin et/ou de maquillage de rides
US10472485B2 (en) 2015-09-30 2019-11-12 Amorepacific Corporation Composite powder in which porous polymer is impregnated with scoria powder particles, cosmetic composition containing same, and process for producing same

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20150126464A1 (en) 2013-01-21 2015-05-07 Resilio Company Limited Therapeutic drug and therapeutic method for neurological diseases including alzheimer's disease associated with 1,25d3-marrs
WO2017057886A1 (fr) * 2015-09-30 2017-04-06 (주)아모레퍼시픽 Poudre composite à polymère poreux imprégné de particules de poudre de scories, composition cosmétique contenant celle-ci, et son procédé de production
JP6881006B2 (ja) * 2016-09-09 2021-06-02 文稔 大城 化粧料

Citations (9)

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FR2611497A1 (fr) * 1987-02-27 1988-09-09 Fabre Pierre Cosmetique Agglomerats, leur preparation et compositions pharmaceutiques et/ou cosmetiques les contenant
US5292512A (en) * 1988-12-20 1994-03-08 Centre Internationale De Recherches Dermatologiques (C.I.R.D.) Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition containing microspheres of polymers or of fatty substances filled with at least one active product
WO1996021422A1 (fr) * 1995-01-11 1996-07-18 Mary Kay Inc. Compositions cosmetiques anhydres contenant des agents actifs sur le plan dermatologique
WO1998058628A1 (fr) * 1997-06-20 1998-12-30 Mary Kay Inc. Composition cosmetique renfermant un agent de blanchiment et un desquamant
US5876758A (en) * 1989-08-04 1999-03-02 Lvmh Recherche Solid complex particles comprising a biologically active solid substance, mode of preparation and compositions for topical use containing them and intended to treat biological surfaces
EP1321136A1 (fr) * 2001-12-20 2003-06-25 Coreana Cosmetics Co., Ltd. Compositions cosmétiques de type pulvérulent contenant des ingrédients anti-rides
US20030180369A1 (en) * 2000-09-25 2003-09-25 Philippe Grisoni Microcapsule powder
EP1493433A1 (fr) * 2003-06-26 2005-01-05 L'oreal Particules poreuses chargées en composé(s) actif(s) cosmétique(s) ou pharmaceutique(s)
EP1582194A1 (fr) * 2002-11-14 2005-10-05 Ube Industries, Ltd. Composition cosmetique

Patent Citations (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2611497A1 (fr) * 1987-02-27 1988-09-09 Fabre Pierre Cosmetique Agglomerats, leur preparation et compositions pharmaceutiques et/ou cosmetiques les contenant
US5292512A (en) * 1988-12-20 1994-03-08 Centre Internationale De Recherches Dermatologiques (C.I.R.D.) Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition containing microspheres of polymers or of fatty substances filled with at least one active product
US5876758A (en) * 1989-08-04 1999-03-02 Lvmh Recherche Solid complex particles comprising a biologically active solid substance, mode of preparation and compositions for topical use containing them and intended to treat biological surfaces
WO1996021422A1 (fr) * 1995-01-11 1996-07-18 Mary Kay Inc. Compositions cosmetiques anhydres contenant des agents actifs sur le plan dermatologique
WO1998058628A1 (fr) * 1997-06-20 1998-12-30 Mary Kay Inc. Composition cosmetique renfermant un agent de blanchiment et un desquamant
US20030180369A1 (en) * 2000-09-25 2003-09-25 Philippe Grisoni Microcapsule powder
EP1321136A1 (fr) * 2001-12-20 2003-06-25 Coreana Cosmetics Co., Ltd. Compositions cosmétiques de type pulvérulent contenant des ingrédients anti-rides
EP1582194A1 (fr) * 2002-11-14 2005-10-05 Ube Industries, Ltd. Composition cosmetique
EP1493433A1 (fr) * 2003-06-26 2005-01-05 L'oreal Particules poreuses chargées en composé(s) actif(s) cosmétique(s) ou pharmaceutique(s)

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2924941A1 (fr) * 2007-12-18 2009-06-19 Oreal Procede cosmetique de soin d'une peau ridee
FR2924932A1 (fr) * 2007-12-18 2009-06-19 Oreal Ciblage des rides par application de compositions fluides
JP2010163434A (ja) * 2009-01-15 2010-07-29 L'oreal Sa レチノイド、アデノシンに基づく非ホスフェート化化合物および半結晶性ポリマーを含有する化粧料組成物または皮膚科学的組成物
WO2011121540A1 (fr) 2010-04-01 2011-10-06 L'oreal Procédé de soin et/ou de maquillage de rides
FR2958154A1 (fr) * 2010-04-01 2011-10-07 Oreal Procede de soin et/ou de maquillage des rides
US10472485B2 (en) 2015-09-30 2019-11-12 Amorepacific Corporation Composite powder in which porous polymer is impregnated with scoria powder particles, cosmetic composition containing same, and process for producing same

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2007020536A3 (fr) 2007-07-19
EP1901700A2 (fr) 2008-03-26
JP2009501209A (ja) 2009-01-15

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