WO2016145859A1 - 一种用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物及其制备方法 - Google Patents

一种用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物及其制备方法 Download PDF

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WO2016145859A1
WO2016145859A1 PCT/CN2015/093021 CN2015093021W WO2016145859A1 WO 2016145859 A1 WO2016145859 A1 WO 2016145859A1 CN 2015093021 W CN2015093021 W CN 2015093021W WO 2016145859 A1 WO2016145859 A1 WO 2016145859A1
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extract
cosmetic composition
pearl
whitening
whitening skin
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PCT/CN2015/093021
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English (en)
French (fr)
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霍刚
邓学阳
马萍
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欧诗漫生物股份有限公司
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Priority to KR1020177029723A priority Critical patent/KR102007110B1/ko
Priority to EP15885229.3A priority patent/EP3269356B1/en
Priority to US15/558,567 priority patent/US10383813B2/en
Priority to JP2017548926A priority patent/JP2018507904A/ja
Publication of WO2016145859A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016145859A1/zh

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/738—Cyclodextrins
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and in particular to a cosmetic composition for whitening skin and a preparation method thereof.
  • the skin color, coat color, and color of the eye are mainly related to the type, amount, and distribution of melanin synthesized by melanocytes.
  • melanocytes tyrosinase is catalyzed by tyrosinase, tyrosine is oxidized to dopa and dopaquinone, and dopaquinone is further converted to dopachrome; in DHI enzyme and dopachrome tautomerase and Under the catalysis of DHICA oxidase, dopachrome is further converted to 5,6-anthracene and 5,6- by 5,6-dihydroxyindole and 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid. ⁇ -2-carboxylic acid; 5,6-indole and 5,6-indole-2-carboxylic acid are finally polymerized to form melanin.
  • Tyrosinase is the first rate-limiting enzyme and key enzyme in melanin synthesis. Therefore,
  • the basal cells of the human epidermis contain 4% to 5% of pigment cells.
  • the color of human skin does not depend on the number of melanocytes, but on the number, size, distribution, and degree of melaninization of the melanin. Therefore, some whitening ingredients achieve whitening effects by affecting the formation, maturation and transfer of melanosomes.
  • keratinocytes Under ultraviolet irradiation, keratinocytes release endothelin. When endothelin binds to receptors on melanocyte membranes, it stimulates the proliferation of melanocytes, activates tyrosinase activity, and accelerates melanocyte dendrites. The growth of the protrusions accelerates the synthesis of melanin and the migration of melanosomes to keratinocytes. Therefore, it is necessary to effectively inhibit the blackening effect of ultraviolet rays on the skin to block the transmission of information by keratinocytes to the melanocytes. Therefore, endothelin antagonists have gradually become an important class of whitening agents.
  • the present invention comprehensively considers various factors for forming melanin, and an object of the present invention is to propose a cosmetic composition for whitening skin.
  • the cosmetic composition for whitening skin has a plurality of natural extracts and a bio-enzymatic product of a natural extract as a main active ingredient, and synergistically functions to inhibit melanin production and migration to a whitening skin effect.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for the preparation of the above-mentioned cosmetic composition for whitening the skin.
  • a cosmetic composition for whitening skin comprising the following components by mass percentage
  • pea extract 0. ⁇ 5% ;
  • the composition comprises the following components in mass percent:
  • pea extract 0. 5 ⁇ 3%.
  • the composition comprises the following components in mass percent:
  • pea extract 1. ( ⁇ 2.5%.
  • the aqueous solution of Glycyrrhiza glabra is a solution of Glycyrrhiza glabra extract encapsulated in hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin and dispersed in water, and added with 1,2-pentanediol, licorice
  • the extract has a mass fraction of more than 90%.
  • the pearl powder is a 100CT3000 mesh powder obtained by physical mechanical polishing of the pearl.
  • the pearl extract is a mixture of a plurality of peptides and amino acids obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis of pearl powder.
  • the hydrolyzed shellfish is a powdery substance obtained by bio-enzymatic hydrolysis of shellfish of aquatic organisms, and has a mass purity of more than 70%.
  • the pea extract has a mass purity of 3%.
  • the pearl powder in the skin whitening composition is a good nutritional ingredient of human skin. It enhances the barrier function of the skin, moisturizes the skin, increases the hydration of the skin, and exhibits a significant inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity. Moreover, studies have shown that pearl powder has a strong ability to inhibit and remove free radicals.
  • the pearl extract in the skin whitening composition contains a pearl native polypeptide and a plurality of essential amino acids, and the pearl native polypeptide has an effect of inhibiting endothelin-activated tyrosinase and inhibiting endothelin to promote differentiation of melanocytes, and the amino acid can promote skin.
  • Cell growth, inhibition of tyrosinase promotes the production of melanin activity, scavenging free radicals and other abilities.
  • the active ingredient in the aqueous solution of Glycyrrhiza glabra L. in the skin whitening composition is light licorice, and the light licorice has significant anti-inflammatory and whitening effects, and the internationally notified licorice is the approved and safest.
  • One of the most effective whitening ingredients is the industry-recognized whitening gold, which exists only at the roots of licorice.
  • the light licorice has a low purity mixture with color, and the color is added under high temperature conditions. Deep, this has an effect on the color of the cosmetics.
  • the light licorice extract in the licorice extract used in the present invention is not less than 90%, and therefore has little influence on the color of the cosmetic in use.
  • this product is encapsulated with hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin and dissolved in water to form an aqueous solution, which is convenient to use.
  • Hydrolyzed shellfish in the skin whitening composition is an endothelin antagonist, which is a natural whitening additive extracted, isolated and purified from natural products.
  • endothelin antagonist is a natural whitening additive extracted, isolated and purified from natural products.
  • UVB ultraviolet light
  • keratinocytes released endothelin, which was received by receptors on the melanocyte membrane and stimulated the differentiation and proliferation of melanocytes.
  • the activity of tyrosinase is activated, so that melanin is dramatically increased.
  • Endothelin antagonists preferentially bind to receptors of melanocyte membranes, depriving endothelin, inhibiting melanocyte proliferation and melanin synthesis caused by UV-induced endothelin release, and also inhibiting the release of endothelial cells by keratinocytes It is a safe and effective whitening agent.
  • the pea extract in the skin whitening composition can inhibit the activity of the Pmel 17 protein gene, and Pmel 17 is a key gene for melanocyte maturation. This can reduce the production of melanin from the source, and has the effect of whitening and blemishes.
  • FIG. 1 is an example of a subject facial image.
  • the present invention also discloses a whitening cosmetic comprising the above-mentioned cosmetic composition, a common base for a cosmetic external dosage form, and water.
  • the whitening skin provided by the present invention is used for whitening the skin.
  • the cosmetic composition is mainly composed of pearl powder or pearl extract, aqueous licorice aqueous solution, hydrolyzed shell hard protein and pea extract, and is supplemented with a common matrix component of cosmetics. Made with agents, emollients, moisturizers, thickeners, preservatives, flavors and water.
  • the invention is illustrated by the following specific examples, but does not limit the scope of the invention. Embodiments of the invention
  • Cosmetic composition for whitening skin [0042] The components constituting the above cosmetic composition for whitening skin and the percentage thereof are:
  • the above preparation method for whitening skin cosmetic composition comprises the following steps: adding water, glycerin and xanthan gum into a reaction pot, turning on stirring, heating to 75 80 ° C, stirring and dispersing uniformly; opening cooling cycle Water, stirring and cooling, when the temperature drops to 45 °C, add pearl extract, licorice aqueous solution, hydrolyzed shell hard protein, pea extract and preservative to the reaction pot, stir and dissolve completely; continue to stir and cool to low At 38 ° C, stop stirring and end.
  • the preparation method of the above whitening essence liquid comprises the following steps: adding water, glycerin, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, xanthan gum and sodium hyaluronate to the reaction pot, and stirring is started. Heat to 75 ⁇ 80 V, stir and disperse evenly; open cooling water, stir and cool, when the temperature drops to 45 °C, add pearl extract, licorice aqueous solution, hydrolyzed shell hard protein, pea extract, essence and Preservative is added to the reaction pot, homogenized for 1 minute, stirred and dissolved completely; continue to stir and cool to below 38 ° C, stop stirring
  • the preparation method of the above whitening cream 1 comprises the following steps: adding magnesium aluminum silicate, potassium cetyl phosphate, nicotinamide, biological buffer and water to the water phase pot, heating and stirring to 75 ⁇ 80 ° C, homogenizing 5 Minute as phase A; stir and disperse pearl powder, 1, 3-propanediol and xanthan gum as phase B, add phase B to phase A, continue to add Heat to 75 80 ° C, stir and disperse evenly; cetearyl alcohol, isohexadecanol, shea butter, polydimethylsiloxane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, methyl glucose Add semi-stearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate to the oil pan, stir to 8 (T85 ° C, stir until completely melted, as phase C; draw phase A and phase B) In the homogenization reaction pot, start stirring, draw in phase C, homogenize for 5 minutes, turn on the cooling circulating water, stir and cool down; add
  • the preparation method of the above whitening cream 2 comprises the following steps: adding glycerin, lecithin, C12-16 alcohol, palmitic acid and water to the water phase pot, heating and stirring to 75 80 ° C, stirring at constant temperature for 30 minutes as phase A; Powder, butanediol and polyglutamic acid are stirred and dispersed uniformly as phase B.
  • phase B Add phase B to phase A, continue heating and stirring to 75 °C, stir and disperse evenly; cetylstearyl alcohol, virgin olive oil, milkwood Fruit oil, polydimethylsiloxane Alkane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetearyl ethylhexanoate added to the oil pan, heated to 8 ( ⁇ 8 5 ° C, stirred until fully melted, as phase C; phase A and phase B Drain into the homogenization reaction pot, start stirring, draw in phase C, homogenize for 5 minutes, turn on the cooling circulating water, stir and cool down; add to the licorice aqueous solution, hydrolyze shell hard protein, pea extract, at 45 °C Flavor and preservative, stir and dissolve completely; continue to stir until the material temperature is not higher than 38 ° C, stop stirring, and finish.
  • cetylstearyl alcohol virgin olive oil, milkwood Fruit oil, polydimethylsiloxane Alkane, caprylic/capric
  • This experiment selected the whitening cream 2 provided in Example 4 for clinical experiments.
  • the experiment included 23 volunteers, women aged 23-50 years, with spots on the face due to sun exposure, work stress, age, and the like.
  • the test substance was used as specified during the test and the data was complete. Apply whitening cream twice a day in the morning and evening, with a test cycle of 4 weeks. Face image data was acquired by VISIA-CR at W0 (before use), W2 (using 2 weeks), W4 (using 4 weeks), and the change of L* value of specific spots on the face was analyzed by SSA software, and the difference was tested by t test. .
  • the results are as follows:
  • the skin color L* value has an increasing tendency and is significantly larger than the pre-use level, and the difference is statistically significant ( ⁇ 0.01).
  • the skin color gradually becomes lighter and the color of the stain gradually fades.
  • the degree of skin color change and the size of the spot change before and after the use of the product is estimated by the subject to judge the degree of improvement of the product to the skin.
  • No improvement in it means that there is no change in the size of the stain/no change in the skin color; Mild improvement means that the stain is slightly reduced, lightened/the overall skin tone is brightened; moderate improvement means that the stain is significantly reduced, and the lightening/integrated skin tone is significantly brightened.
  • the moderate improvement in facial skin color accounted for 38% of the total number, a slight improvement of 54%; and in the improvement of stains, it was considered that the moderate improvement was 15%, slightly improved. Accounted for 77%.
  • the whitening product has a remarkable whitening effect, that is, has the dual effect of brightening the skin color and diminishing the color spots.

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Abstract

一种用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物及其制备方法，该组合物包括以下组分：珍珠粉、珍珠提取物、光果甘草水溶液、水解贝壳硬蛋白和豌豆提取物，珍珠粉和珍珠提取物的含量不同时为零，且所述的光果甘草水溶液中光果甘草提取物的百分含量为0.5-5.0%.

Description

发明名称： 一种用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物及其制备方法 技术领域
[0001] 本发明涉及化妆品领域， 具体涉及一种用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物及其制备 方法。
背景技术
[0002] 人的肤色、 毛色及眼睛的颜色主要与黑素细胞 (melanocyte)合成的黑色素 (mel anin)的类型、 数量和分布有关。 在黑色素细胞内， 受到酪氨酸酶的催化作用， 酪氨酸先后被氧化成多巴和多巴醌， 多巴醌又进一步转化成多巴色素； 在 DHI酶 以及多巴色素互变酶和 DHICA氧化酶的分别催化作用下， 多巴色素经过 5， 6-二 羟基吲哚和 5， 6-二羟基吲哚 -2-羧酸进一步转化为 5， 6-吲哚醌和 5， 6-吲哚醌- 2-羧酸； 5， 6-吲哚醌和 5， 6-吲哚醌 -2-羧酸最后聚合形成黑色素。 酪氨酸酶是 黑色素合成的第一步限速酶和关键酶。 因此， 大多数美白剂中都含有酪氨酸酶 抑制剂。
[0003] 人体表皮的基底层细胞中含 4 %〜5 %的色素细胞。 人类皮肤的颜色不是取决于 黑色素细胞数量， 而是取决于黑色素体的数量、 大小、 分布及黑素化程度。 因 此， 有些美白成分通过影响黑色素体的形成、 成熟及转移来达到美白的效果。
[0004] 在紫外线照射下， 角质形成细胞会释放内皮素， 当内皮素与黑色素细胞膜上的 受体结合后， 会剌激黑色素细胞的增殖， 激活酪氨酸酶的活性， 加快黑色素细 胞树枝状突起的增长， 从而加快黑色素的合成和黑色素体向角质形成细胞的迁 移。 因此， 要有效地抑制紫外线对肌肤的黑化作用就要阻断角质形成细胞向黑 色素细胞传递信息。 因此， 内皮素拮抗剂也逐渐成为一类重要的美白剂。
[0005] 由于黑色素形成的原因是多方面的， 要使产品美白效果显著， 必须全面综合考 虑黑色素形成的原因， 只有这样才能够设计出高效美白产品。 但是， 多途径作 用于黑色素的生成和转移过程， 必须考虑产品的安全性、 稳定性以及外观。 因 此， 要选用具有多功能、 稳定、 安全、 且颜色浅的美白原料， 发挥其协同美白 作用， 具有重要的意义。 发明概述
技术问题
[0006] 本发明综合考虑了形成黑色素的各种因素， 本发明的一个目的是提出一种用于 美白皮肤的化妆品组合物。 该用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物以多种天然提取物 和天然提取物的生物酶解产物为主要的活性成分， 协同发挥作用， 抑制黑色素 生成和迁移达到美白皮肤的效果。 本发明的另外一个目的是提出上述的用于美 白皮肤的化妆品组合物的制备方法。
问题的解决方案
技术解决方案
[0007] 一种用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物， 该组合物按质量百分比计包括以下的组分
Figure imgf000003_0001
[0009] 珍珠提取物 0^10%
[0010] 光果甘草水溶液 0.广 10%
[0011] 水解贝壳硬蛋白 0. 005〜1%
[0012] 豌豆提取物 0. Γ5%;
[0013] 上述的珍珠粉和珍珠提取物的含量不同时为零， 且所述的光果甘草水溶液中光 果甘草提取物的百分含量为 0. 5^5. 0%。
[0014] 作为优选， 该组合物按质量百分比计包括以下的组分：
[0015] 珍珠粉 0. 5〜20%
[0016] 珍珠提取物 0. 5〜5%
[0017] 光果甘草水溶液 0. 3〜3%
[0018] 水解贝壳硬蛋白 0. 0Γ0. 3%
[0019] 豌豆提取物 0. 5〜3%。
[0020] 作为在优选， 该组合物按质量百分比计包括以下的组分：
[0021] 珍珠粉 1. 0〜15%
[0022] 珍珠提取物 1. 0 4%
[0023] 光果甘草水溶液 0. 5^3% [0024] 水解贝壳硬蛋白 0. 05^0. 2%
[0025] 豌豆提取物 1. (Γ2. 5%。
[0026] 作为在优选， 所述的光果甘草水溶液中光果甘草提取物的百分含量为 1. (Γ3. 0%
[0027] 作为在优选， 所述的光果甘草水溶液是由光果甘草提取物经羟丙基环糊精包络 后分散于水中， 添加 1， 2-戊二醇形成的溶液， 光果甘草提取物中光甘草定质量 分数大于 90%。
[0028] 作为在优选， 所述的珍珠粉是珍珠经物理机械研磨得到的 100CT3000目粉状物 质。
[0029] 作为在优选， 所述的珍珠提取物是珍珠粉经酶解得到的多种肽类和氨基酸的混 合物。
[0030] 作为在优选， 所述的水解贝壳硬蛋白是水生生物的贝壳硬蛋白经生物酶解的方 式得到的粉末状物质， 质量纯度大于 70%。
[0031] 作为在优选， 所述的豌豆提取物质量纯度为 3%。
发明的有益效果
有益效果
[0032] 该皮肤美白组合物中的珍珠粉是人体皮肤的一种很好的营养功效成分。 它能提 高皮肤的屏障功能， 还能滋润皮肤， 增加皮肤的水合度， 对酪氨酸酶的活性表 现出显著地抑制作用。 并且， 有研究表明珍珠粉有很强的抑制和去除自由基的 能力。
[0033] 该皮肤美白组合物中的珍珠提取物含有珍珠原生多肽和多种必须氨基酸， 珍珠 原生多肽具有抑制内皮素激活酪氨酸酶及抑制内皮素促进黑色素细胞分化的作 用， 氨基酸能够促进皮肤细胞增长、 抑制酪氨酸酶促进生成黑色素活性、 清除 自由基等多种能力。
[0034] 该皮肤美白组合物中的光果甘草水溶液中的活性成分为光甘草定， 光甘草定具 有显著的抗炎和美白效果， 国际上将光甘草定公布为已核准许可的、 最安全、 最有效美白成分之一， 是业界公认的美白黄金， 仅存在于光果甘草的根部。 但 是在应用中发现， 光甘草定纯度低混合物带有色泽， 且在温度高条件下颜色加 深， 这样对化妆品的色泽有影响。 而本发明中采用的光果甘草提取物中光甘草 定含量不小于 90%， 因此在使用中对于化妆品颜色影响较小。 另外， 本产品采用 羟丙基环糊精包络后溶于水形成水溶液， 便于使用。
[0035] 该皮肤美白组合物中的水解贝壳硬蛋白是一种内皮素拮抗剂， 内皮素拮抗剂是 一种从天然产物中提取、 分离和纯化的天然美白添加剂。 90年代中期皮肤生理 学家发现人体皮肤被紫外线 (UVB)照射后， 角朊细胞释放出内皮素， 该内皮素的 信息被黑色素细胞膜上的受体接受后， 剌激了黑色素细胞的分化、 增殖并激活 酪氨酸酶的活性， 从而黑色素急剧增加。 内皮素拮抗剂能够优先与黑色素细胞 膜的受体结合， 使内皮素失去作用， 从而抑制因紫外线辐射导致内皮素释放而 引起的黑色素细胞的增殖和黑色素的合成， 并且还通过抑制角质形成细胞释放 内皮素而起到美白作用， 是安全、 高效的美白剂。
[0036] 该皮肤美白组合物中的豌豆提取物可以抑制 Pmel 17蛋白基因的活性， 而 Pmel 17是黑色素体成熟的关键基因。 这样可以从源头上减少黑色素的生成， 而具有 美白和淡斑的功效。
对附图的简要说明
附图说明
[0037] 图 1受试者面部图像示例。
发明实施例
具体实施方式
[0038] 本发明还公开了一种美白化妆品， 该化妆品包括上述的的化妆品组合物、 化妆 品外用剂型的常用基质和水。
[0039] 本发明提供的美白皮肤用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物是以珍珠粉或者珍珠提取 物、 光果甘草水溶液、 水解贝壳硬蛋白、 豌豆提取物为主要成分， 辅以化妆品 常用基质成分乳化剂、 润肤剂、 保湿剂、 增稠剂、 防腐剂、 香精以及水制成。 下面列举一部分具体实施例对本发明进行说明， 但并不限制本发明的内容。 本发明的实施方式
[0040] 实施例 1
[0041] 用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物： [0042] 组成上述用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物的组分及其百分数含量为：
[] [表 1]
Figure imgf000006_0001
[0043] 上述用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物的制备方法， 包括下列步骤： 将水、 甘油和 黄原胶加入反应锅中， 开启搅拌， 加热至 75 80°C， 搅拌分散均匀； 开冷却循环 水， 搅拌降温， 待温度降至 45 0°C时， 加入珍珠提取物、 光果甘草水溶液、 水 解贝壳硬蛋白、 豌豆提取物和防腐剂加入反应锅中， 搅拌溶解完全； 继续搅拌 冷却至低于 38°C， 停止搅拌， 结束。
[0044] 实施例 2
[0045] 美白精华液：
[0046] 组成上述美白精华液的组分及其百分数含量为：
[]
[表 2]
Figure imgf000007_0001
[0047] 上述美白精华液的制备方法， 包括下列步骤： 将水、 甘油、 丙烯酰二甲基牛磺 酸铵 /VP 共聚物、 黄原胶和透明质酸钠加入反应锅中， 开启搅拌， 加热至 75^80 V , 搅拌分散均匀； 开冷却循环水， 搅拌降温， 待温度降至 45 0°C时， 加入珍 珠提取物、 光果甘草水溶液、 水解贝壳硬蛋白、 豌豆提取物、 香精和防腐剂加 入反应锅中， 均质 1分钟， 搅拌溶解完全； 继续搅拌冷却至低于 38°C， 停止搅拌
？ 结束
[0048] 实施例 3
[0049] 美白霜 1 :
[0050] 组成上述美白霜 1的组分及其百分数含量为：
[] [表 3]
Figure imgf000008_0001
上述美白霜 1的制备方法， 包括下列步骤： 将硅酸铝镁、 鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾、 烟 酰胺、 生物缓冲剂和水加入水相锅， 加热搅拌至 75〜80°C， 均质 5分钟作为 A相； 将珍珠粉、 1， 3-丙二醇和黄原胶搅拌分散均匀作为 B相， 将 B相加入 A相， 继续加 热搅拌至 75 80°C， 搅拌分散均匀； 将鲸蜡硬脂醇、 异十六醇、 乳木果油、 聚二 甲基硅氧垸、 辛酸 /癸酸甘油三酯、 甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、 PEG-20 甲基葡糖 倍半硬脂酸酯加入油锅中， 加热搅拌至 8(T85°C， 搅拌至完全熔解， 作为 C相； 将 A相和 B相抽入均质反应锅中， 开启搅拌， 抽入 C相， 均质 5分钟， 开启冷却循 环水， 搅拌降温； 至 45 0°C时加入光果甘草水溶液、 水解贝壳硬蛋白、 豌豆提 取物、 香精和防腐剂， 搅拌溶解完全； 继续搅拌至料温不高于 38°C后， 停止搅 ίΦ? 结束
[0052] 实施例 4
[0053] 美白霜 2:
[0054] 组成上述美白霜 2的组分及其百分数含量为：
[]
[表 4]
Figure imgf000010_0001
上述美白霜 2的制备方法， 包括下列步骤： 将甘油、 卵磷脂、 C12-16醇、 棕榈 酸和水加入水相锅， 加热搅拌至 75 80°C， 恒温搅拌 30分钟作为 A相； 将珍珠粉 、 丁二醇和聚谷氨酸搅拌分散均匀作为 B相， 将 B相加入 A相， 继续加热搅拌至 75 0°C， 搅拌分散均匀； 将鲸蜡硬脂醇、 初搾橄榄油、 乳木果油、 聚二甲基硅氧 烷、 辛酸 /癸酸甘油三酯、 鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯加入油锅中， 加热搅拌至 8(Γ8 5°C， 搅拌至完全熔解， 作为 C相； 将 A相和 B相抽入均质反应锅中， 开启搅拌， 抽入 C相， 均质 5分钟， 开启冷却循环水， 搅拌降温； 至 45 0°C时加入光果甘草 水溶液、 水解贝壳硬蛋白、 豌豆提取物、 香精和防腐剂， 搅拌溶解完全； 继续 搅拌至料温不高于 38°C后， 停止搅拌， 结束。
[0056] 实施例 5美白效果评价
[0057] 本实验选择实施例 4中提供的美白霜 2进行临床实验。
[0058] 该实验包括 23位志愿者， 女性年龄在 23-50周岁， 面部有由于日晒、 工作压力 、 年龄等造成的斑点。 在试验期间按规定使用受试物且资料齐全。 每天早晚两 次涂抹美白霜， 测试周期为 4周。 于 W0 (使用前） 、 W2 (使用 2周）、 W4 (使用 4周 )通过 VISIA-CR获取脸部图像数据， 并用 SSA软件分析面部特定斑点 L*值的变化 ， 并用 t 检验检验其差异性。 其结果如下：
[0059] 1. L值变化表
[0060] [数] 德穆 乎雌 ±纖差 t F镞 霸 驄， S纖 ± U3棚 誦 4±n繊 4誦
飄 ¾ϋ± :灘腦 %誦 &誦鋒
[0061] 注： **表示差异非常显著 (Ρ〈0· 01 )
[0062] 从表中可以看到， 可以看到使用两周后， 皮肤色度 L*值就有增加趋势， 并且 明显大于使用前的水平， 差异具有统计学意义 （ρ〈0. 01 ) ， 说明面部使用美白 霜之后， 皮肤颜色逐渐变浅以及色斑颜色逐渐变淡。
[0063] 从图 1中可以看到， 在 W2的时候， 面部肤色明显提亮， 并且在 W4的时候能有一 个很好的维持作用。 与面部的 L值结果相符合。
[0064] 2. 志愿者自我评价
[0065] 采用问卷形式， 由受试者自估产品使用前后皮肤颜色深浅和斑点大小变化的程 度来判断产品对皮肤改善程度。 其中无改善是指色斑大小无变化 /肤色无变化； 轻度改善是指色斑稍有缩小、 变淡 /整体肤色有所提亮； 中度改善是指色斑明显 缩小， 变淡 /整体肤色明显提亮。 使用样品 E四周内， 受试者认为面部肤色中度 改善的占了总人数的 38%， 轻度改善为 54%; 而在色斑改善方面， 认为中度改善 的为 15%， 轻度改善占了 77%。
综上所述， 该美白产品具有显著的美白功效， 即具有提亮肤色和淡化色斑的双 重功效。

Claims

权利要求书
[权利要求 1] 一种用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物， 其特征在于该组合物按质量百分 比计包括以下的组分：
珍珠粉 0〜30%
珍珠提取物 0^10%
光果甘草水溶液 0.广 10%
水解贝壳硬蛋白 0. 005〜1%
豌豆提取物 0. Γ5%;
上述的珍珠粉和珍珠提取物的含量不同时为零， 且所述的光果甘草水 溶液中光果甘草提取物的百分含量为 0. 5^5. 0%。
[权利要求 ] 根据权利要求 1所述的一种用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物， 其特征在 于该组合物按质量百分比计包括以下的组分：
珍珠粉 0. 5〜20%
珍珠提取物 0. 5〜5%
光果甘草水溶液 0. 3〜3%
水解贝壳硬蛋白 0. 0Γ0. 3%
豌豆提取物 0. 5〜3%。
[权利要求 3] 根据权利要求 1所述的一种用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物， 其特征在 于该组合物按质量百分比计包括以下的组分：
珍珠粉 1. 0〜15%
珍珠提取物 1. 0^4%
光果甘草水溶液 0. 5〜3%
水解贝壳硬蛋白 0. 05〜0· 2%
豌豆提取物 1. 0〜2· 5%。
[权利要求 4] 根据权利要求 1或 2或 3所述的一种用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物， 其 特征在于所述的光果甘草水溶液中光果甘草提取物的百分含量为 1. CT 3. 0%。
[权利要求 5] 根据权利要求 4所述的一种用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物， 其特征在 于所述的光果甘草水溶液是由光果甘草提取物经羟丙基环糊精包络后 分散于水中， 添加 1， 2-戊二醇形成的溶液， 光果甘草提取物中光甘 草定质量分数大于 90%。
[权利要求 6] 根据权利要求 1或 2或 3所述的一种用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物， 其 特征在于所述的珍珠粉是珍珠经物理机械研磨得到的 100CT3000目粉 状物质。
[权利要求 7] 根据权利要求 1或 2或 3所述的一种用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物， 其 特征在于所述的珍珠提取物是珍珠粉经酶解得到的多种肽类和氨基酸 的混合物。
[权利要求 8] 根据权利要求 1或 2或 3所述的一种用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物， 其 特征在于所述的水解贝壳硬蛋白是水生生物的贝壳硬蛋白经生物酶解 的方式得到的粉末状物质， 质量纯度大于 70%。
[权利要求 9] 根据权利要求 1或 2或 3所述的一种用于美白皮肤的化妆品组合物， 其 特征在于所述的豌豆提取物质量纯度为 3%。
[权利要求 10] —种美白化妆品， 其特征在于该化妆品包括权利要求广 9任意一项权 利要求所述的化妆品组合物、 化妆品外用剂型的常用基质和水。
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