WO2016009115A1 - Article chaussant à structure améliorée - Google Patents

Article chaussant à structure améliorée Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016009115A1
WO2016009115A1 PCT/FR2015/000136 FR2015000136W WO2016009115A1 WO 2016009115 A1 WO2016009115 A1 WO 2016009115A1 FR 2015000136 W FR2015000136 W FR 2015000136W WO 2016009115 A1 WO2016009115 A1 WO 2016009115A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
footwear
envelope
article
functional part
casing
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/FR2015/000136
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Béatrice BOUCHER
Gérard Gautier
Original Assignee
Salomon Sas.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Salomon Sas. filed Critical Salomon Sas.
Priority to KR1020167037093A priority Critical patent/KR20170033817A/ko
Priority to RU2017105009A priority patent/RU2017105009A/ru
Priority to US15/326,907 priority patent/US20170208900A1/en
Priority to EP15754256.4A priority patent/EP3169178A1/fr
Priority to CA2954250A priority patent/CA2954250A1/fr
Priority to JP2017503009A priority patent/JP2017521178A/ja
Priority to CN201580038776.5A priority patent/CN106535690B/zh
Priority to AU2015288990A priority patent/AU2015288990A1/en
Priority to BR112017000245A priority patent/BR112017000245A2/pt
Publication of WO2016009115A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016009115A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/0265Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form having different properties in different directions
    • A43B23/027Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form having different properties in different directions with a part of the upper particularly flexible, e.g. permitting articulation or torsion
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B19/00Shoe-shaped inserts; Inserts covering the instep
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0205Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
    • A43B23/0215Plastics or artificial leather
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0205Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
    • A43B23/0235Different layers of different material
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0205Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
    • A43B23/024Different layers of the same material
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/0265Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form having different properties in different directions
    • A43B23/0275Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form having different properties in different directions with a part of the upper particularly rigid, e.g. resisting articulation or torsion
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/04Uppers made of one piece; Uppers with inserted gussets
    • A43B23/042Uppers made of one piece
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/07Linings therefor
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/08Heel stiffeners; Toe stiffeners
    • A43B23/081Toe stiffeners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/08Heel stiffeners; Toe stiffeners
    • A43B23/081Toe stiffeners
    • A43B23/086Toe stiffeners made of impregnated fabrics, plastics or the like
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/08Heel stiffeners; Toe stiffeners
    • A43B23/081Toe stiffeners
    • A43B23/086Toe stiffeners made of impregnated fabrics, plastics or the like
    • A43B23/087Toe stiffeners made of impregnated fabrics, plastics or the like made of plastics
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/08Heel stiffeners; Toe stiffeners
    • A43B23/088Heel stiffeners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/08Heel stiffeners; Toe stiffeners
    • A43B23/16Heel stiffeners; Toe stiffeners made of impregnated fabrics, plastics or the like
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43CFASTENINGS OR ATTACHMENTS OF FOOTWEAR; LACES IN GENERAL
    • A43C1/00Shoe lacing fastenings
    • A43C1/06Shoe lacing fastenings tightened by draw-strings
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43DMACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D3/00Lasts
    • A43D3/02Lasts for making or repairing shoes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D04B1/126Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with colour pattern, e.g. intarsia fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04Outerwear; Protective garments
    • D10B2501/043Footwear
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02PCLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
    • Y02P70/00Climate change mitigation technologies in the production process for final industrial or consumer products
    • Y02P70/50Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product
    • Y02P70/62Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product related technologies for production or treatment of textile or flexible materials or products thereof, including footwear

Definitions

  • the invention relates to an article of footwear, such as a shoe or any equivalent, as well as to a method of manufacturing the article of footwear.
  • the footwear can be used in areas such as walking, running on flat terrain or in the mountains, wheeling, ball sport, cross-country skiing, snow surfing, snowshoeing, or other.
  • the article of footwear must fulfill various functions, sometimes antithetical, such as ensuring a maintenance and / or a sufficient tightening of the foot while offering a satisfactory comfort.
  • the article of footwear must also have a certain flexibility, a quality which consists in a good aptitude for marrying certain deformations of the foot. In other words, the article of footwear must adapt to the foot by leaving it the latitude necessary for the walk or the sport in question.
  • the upper generally comprises a number of parts, such as a side section, a medial area, a vamp, a tongue, a heel, a rear buttress, a front protection cap, a tightening device including passers-by and a lace, a lining. internal, or even other parts. In addition, some of these may include several parts.
  • the main problem in a shoe is to assemble and put into a three-dimensional shape pieces cut and assembled flat.
  • the rod is associated, in known manner, with a mounting flange, to delimit a footwear element. According to a first method, the rod is glued to the mounting flange by a layer of glue.
  • the mounting flange also called the first mounting
  • the gluing is done by pulling the rod to press it on the first of assembly, knowing that a form is inserted in the stem. This is called traditional form fitting. This technique allows to exert sufficient pressure during the heating of the glue, to obtain the footwear element.
  • a second method also known, is to achieve the footwear element by joining the rod to the first mounting by means of a seam. This is called Strobel editing.
  • the first assembly is here a flexible sole, which can be sewn, called Strobel sole. For each of the first and second methods, the first assembly is part of the assembly.
  • the latter further comprises external parts, such as one or more damping layers, as well as a wear layer, provided for contacting the ground, which are generally fixed by gluing on the first mounting and on the rod mounted on form .
  • the sole comprises one or more inner layers, disposed in the footwear element, to perform protective functions in terms of hygiene, damping, arch support, or other. In the end, the combination of the footwear element with the other components of the sole formation form the shoe.
  • a shoe according to the prior art made by the most used techniques has some disadvantages.
  • the shoe uses a large number of pieces, generally between forty and sixty. Because the number of pieces constituting the shoe is high, the number of manufacturing operations and the time required to conduct them are high. It usually takes forty minutes to an hour and thirty minutes to make a shoe. It can be said that shoes made according to conventional techniques are complicated by both the number of their components and the number of manufacturing operations.
  • the Applicant has proposed another approach to manufacturing an article of footwear.
  • an article of footwear comprises a first envelope, the first envelope extending in length from a rear end to a front end, in width between a lateral edge and a medial edge, and in height from a bottom to an upper end, the first envelope comprising son mechanically connected to each other.
  • the first envelope is shaped in volume, that is to say in three dimensions, being placed on a shape to present a geometry very similar to that of a foot, and thus it marries the foot very homogeneously .
  • An advantage that arises is an increased comfort of the article of footwear, compared to a shoe according to the traditional prior art.
  • the arrangement according to document FR 2 999 881 also shows that the first envelope has continuity of structure, in the sense that its internal surface and / or its external surface are, if not totally regular, at least essentially regular. This results advantageously that the user is less embarrassed, if at all.
  • the synthesis of the above shows that the first envelope maintains the foot and provides a satisfactory comfort.
  • the first envelope is able to marry the deformations of the foot. This makes the article of footwear according to document FR 2 999 881 comfortable in any situation, whether static or dynamic.
  • the invention generally seeks to improve an article of footwear. More specifically, the invention wants, for example, to improve the transmission of driving pulses, the restitution of the reactions of the ground or of a machine, or the perception of sensory information.
  • the invention seeks to optimize the efficiency of use, and reduce the fatigue of a user.
  • the invention still seeks to meet the specific needs of a user, retaining its basic qualities such as comfort and support of the foot. In the case of search support or transmission of intense information, for example during sports use, it is a real challenge. Indeed, the comfort and the optimization in the transmission of the efforts are concepts a priori antinomic.
  • the invention proposes an article of footwear which comprises a first envelope, the first envelope extending in length from a rear end to a front end, in width between a lateral edge and a medial edge, and in height from a bottom to an upper end.
  • the first envelope comprises son connected to each other mechanically.
  • the article of footwear according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a functional part arranged opposite the first envelope, as well as a means for positioning the functional part relative to the envelope.
  • the functional part may be a tubular section located in a metatarsal area.
  • This section is intended to locally increase the resistance of the envelope to the transverse deformation. It is in fact to facilitate the taking of supports in the metatarsal region.
  • the result is that the article is adapted to a practice that requires the transmission of sensory information, driving pulses or ground reactions, rather intense. This is the case during races in rough terrain. But this is only an example and the invention provides, we will see later, other possible functions for an added part.
  • the efficiency of use is optimized, and the fatigue of the user is reduced.
  • the addition of the functional piece preserves the basic qualities of the envelope that is the comfort and the maintenance of the foot.
  • the invention succeeds, for example, in reconciling the two antinomic characteristics that are comfort and precision in transmissions.
  • the invention also relates to a method which makes the manufacture of the footwear easier.
  • the invention improves the structure and the method of manufacture of a footwear item.
  • FIG. 1 is a front perspective view of an article of footwear according to a first embodiment of the invention
  • FIG. 2 is a section along II-II of FIG. 1,
  • FIG. 3 is a schematic perspective view of a blank and a functional part before assembly of one with the other, the blank being used to manufacture a first envelope and a second envelope of the article of footwear according to Figure 1,
  • FIG. 4 is similar to FIG. 3, in a case where the blank and the functional part are assembled together,
  • FIG. 5 is a schematic view relating to the constitution of an envelope of the article of footwear according to FIG. 1,
  • FIG. 6 is another schematic view relating to the constitution of an envelope of the article of footwear according to FIG. 1,
  • FIG. 7 is another schematic view relating to the constitution of an envelope of the article of footwear according to FIG. 1,
  • FIG. 8 is a side view of a reinforcement intended to be integrated with the article of footwear according to FIG. 1,
  • FIG. 9 is a perspective view which relates to the manufacture of the article of footwear according to FIG. 1,
  • FIG. 10 is another perspective view which relates to the manufacture of the article of footwear according to FIG. 1,
  • FIG. 11 is a schematic perspective view of a blank used to manufacture a first envelope, according to a second embodiment of the invention.
  • FIG. 12 is a front perspective view of an article of footwear, on the upper side, obtained from the blank of FIG.
  • FIG. 13 is a diagrammatic front perspective view of a blank used to manufacture a first envelope, the blank receiving functional parts, according to a third embodiment of the invention.
  • Figure 14 is a view similar to Figure 13, in a case where the functional parts are not yet associated with the blank.
  • the first embodiment that will be described after relates for example to an article of footwear for walking or for running on horizontal terrain or in the mountains. However, the first embodiment applies to other fields such as those mentioned before.
  • a footwear 1 is provided to accommodate the foot of the user. It is appropriate for the rest of the description to consider that the article of footwear 1 is a shoe even if, we will see soon in detail, its structure is totally unusual.
  • the boot 1 extends in length, in a longitudinal direction L, between a rear end or heel 4 and a front end or tip 5, and in width, in a transverse direction W, between a lateral edge 6 and an edge medial 7.
  • the shoe 1 comprises a lower portion 10, provided to surround the foot, excluding any high portion.
  • a shoe comprising both a low portion and a high portion, the latter being provided to surround the ankle and possibly the lower leg.
  • the shoe 1 extends in height from a bottom 12 to an upper end 13, that is to say up to the free end of the lower portion 10 or the shoe 1.
  • the bottom is a subdivision of the shoe on which the foot is supported.
  • the shoe 1 is structured to allow a smooth running of the foot during walking, transmissions of sensory information, and impulses for support or receptions. This is why the shoe 1, or footwear, is relatively flexible.
  • the boot 1 comprises a first casing 21 which extends in length, in the longitudinal direction L, from a rear end 24 to a front end 25, in width, in the transverse direction W, between a lateral edge 26 and a medial edge 27, and in height from a bottom 28 to an upper end 29.
  • This allows the first envelope to surround and maintain the foot of the user.
  • the first envelope includes son connected to each other mechanically, as will be explained later. Also, at least part of the son of the first envelope comprises at least one hot-melt filament, as will also be explained later.
  • the son of the first envelope which comprise at least one hot-melt filament are distributed over the entirety of the first envelope 21, and the fusion of the son during manufacture contributes, to a greater or lesser extent, depending on their quantity, their concentration, withstand and / or bonding and / or abrasion resistance of the first envelope.
  • the fusion of the yarns gives the first envelope 21 the ability to retain its shape by itself. This means that it does not sag if no external force is applied to it, even if it is not associated with other parts.
  • the first envelope 21 is a one-piece piece and, on the other hand, that it can form a self-supporting piece, giving its shape to the shoe, to a greater or lesser extent, in depending on the quantity / concentration of the threads.
  • the first shell 21 gives shape to the boot 1.
  • the rear end 24, the front end 25, the side edge 26, the medial edge 27, the bottom 28 and the upper end 29 of the first envelope delimit respectively the rear end 4, the front end 5, the lateral edge 6, the medial edge 7, the bottom 12 and the upper end 13 of the footwear or shoe 1.
  • the minimalist structure adopted for the envelope 21 is a guarantee of simplicity, lightness, and many other advantages, as we will see later.
  • the boot 1 also comprises a second casing 31 which extends in length, in the longitudinal direction L, from a rear end 34 to a front end 35, in width, in the transverse direction W, between a lateral edge 36 and a medial edge 37, and in height from a bottom 38 to an upper end 39.
  • the second envelope 31 covers the foot too, at the Like the first 21.
  • the second envelope 31 is disposed outside the first 21 and, therefore, covers the foot indirectly.
  • the shape of the shoe 1 is given both by the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31. It will be better later thereafter the interest of using two envelopes.
  • the second envelope 31 comprises son mechanically connected to each other, at least a portion of the son comprising at least one hot-melt filament, the son which comprise at least one hot-melt filament being distributed over the the whole of the second casing 31, and the shape of the second casing being fixed by fusion of the son which comprise at least one hot-melt filament.
  • the fusion confers on the second envelope 31 the ability to retain its shape by itself. This means that it does not sag if no external force is applied to it, even if it is not associated with other parts.
  • the second envelope 31 is a one-piece piece and, on the other hand, that it can form a self-supporting part, giving its shape to the shoe, to a greater or lesser extent, as a function of the quantity / concentration of the threads.
  • the second envelope 31 also gives shape to the shoe 1.
  • the rear end 34, the front end 35, the lateral edge 36, the medial edge 37, the bottom 38 and the upper end 39 of the second envelope 31 also delimit respectively the rear end 4, the front end 5, the lateral edge 6, the medial edge 7, the bottom 12 and the upper end 13 of the footwear or shoe 1.
  • the minimalist structure adopted for the envelope 31 is a guarantee of simplicity, lightness, and many other advantages, as we will see later.
  • each envelope 21, 31 is done by manufacturing a sleeve 41, that is to say in fact a flexible tube made of wires linked to each other mechanically.
  • envelope 21, 31 is a sock, as will be seen later on all the figures.
  • the sleeve 41 is a blank for the realization of the article 1.
  • the sleeve 41 makes it possible to make both the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31.
  • the sleeve 41 extends in length from a first end 42 to a second end 43.
  • the first end 42 is closed here by any technique known to those skilled in the art, such as for example a stitch after folding, the addition of a ferrule made of wires connected to each other mechanically, or any equivalent.
  • the second end 43 for its part, is simply an opening.
  • the sleeve 41 makes it possible to manufacture the envelopes 21, 31 in one piece.
  • the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31 extend one another. This simplifies manufacturing by reducing the number of parts and the time required for implementation.
  • the combination of the threads used to make the sleeve 41, and therefore the envelopes 21, 31, is presented with the aid of FIGS. 5 and 6. It is generally expected that the threads are associated with each other by any textile technique. appropriate, such as knitting, weaving, braiding, or other. In the case of knitting, it is possible to use a circular loom single needle or double needle, a cylinder loom, or a straight loom. Two knitting zones can be joined to each other by Intarsia technique or by embroidery. Various decorative patterns can be obtained directly during knitting, by the Intarsia method, embroidery, Jacquard technique, or other.
  • Figure 5 symbolizes a traditional weave with first son 44 oriented in a first direction, second son 45 oriented in a second direction, the first 44 and second 45 son crossing to form a flexible mesh.
  • the sleeve 41 is for example manufactured with a straight loom, which allows to vary the sections, that is to say in fact the diameter of the sleeve, to make shape variations for the heel, to make openings for the passage of laces, to vary the density of the wall of the sleeve, or in particular to vary the tightening of the loops.
  • the rectilinear craft offers a wide range of adjustment possibilities, and it is suitable for making sleeves of all sizes, either in diameter or in length.
  • the straight line is more practical than the circular loom. Indeed, it works on a reduced range in the diameter of the sleeve.
  • the yarn may be a monofilament, obtained for example by extrusion of a hot melt synthetic material, such as a polyamide, a polyurethane, a polyethylene, or any equivalent material or the like.
  • a hot melt synthetic material such as a polyamide, a polyurethane, a polyethylene, or any equivalent material or the like.
  • the production of a filament is continuous, comparable to the silk filament produced by a spider.
  • the filament may be single-component, or mono-material, in the sense that its cross-section is regular.
  • the filament can also be multi-component, for example two-component.
  • a cross-section of a filament shows a heart made of a first material, and a peripheral envelope which surrounds the core, envelope made of a second material.
  • Each material can be hot melt, or only one can be. If both materials are, their melting temperatures are different.
  • the wire can be multi-filament. It is in this case obtained by association of several filaments. Such an association is represented by the diagram of FIG. 7.
  • all the filaments 49 are of the same nature, in the sense that each of them has the same melting point. But we can provide combinations of filaments of different kinds, some of which may be fusible and others not, or with different melting points.
  • the filaments are associated with each other by any known technique.
  • the yarn can be made in the form of a net of fibers.
  • a fiber is a filament of limited length.
  • the fibers are associated by close contact to form the net, by any known technique and in particular by torsion.
  • the maintenance of the fibers to each other is traditionally made by friction, especially with natural fibers such as cotton.
  • the maintenance of the fibers to each other is done either by friction, or by combination of friction and melt adhesion, or still completely by adhesion, because the invention uses hot melt materials.
  • the article footwear 1, or shoe includes a reinforcement 51. It will be seen better after this reinforcement is associated with the envelopes 21, 31 by interlocking at the time of manufacture of the shoe 1, to give it specific skills.
  • the reinforcement 51 is a piece which extends in length from a rear end 54 to a front end 55, in width between a lateral edge 56 and a medial edge 57, and in height from a bottom 58 to an upper end 59.
  • the reinforcement 51 has a length and a width similar to the lengths and widths of the envelopes 21, 31. More specifically the reinforcement 51 extends, in relation to the first envelope 21, in length since the rear end 24 to the front end 25, in width between the lateral edge 26 and the medial edge 27, and in height from the bottom 28 to the upper end 29. This allows, by definition, to reinforce the first envelope 21, and therefore the footwear 1, especially at the bottom 12 and the periphery of the bottom.
  • the reinforcement 51 carries a clamping device 61.
  • This comprises for example loops 62, located at the upper end 59, and a lace 63 and a locking device 64, known from the skilled person. It is therefore possible to tighten or loosen the reinforcement 51 and, in doing so, to tighten or loosen the shoe 1, as it will appear better after.
  • Other clamping means may be provided.
  • the article of footwear 1 comprises a functional part 71 arranged opposite the first envelope 21, as well as a means for positioning the functional part. 71 relative to the envelope.
  • the functional part 71 gives the article of footwear 1 specific localized mechanical properties.
  • the positioning means which will be described later, makes it possible to set up accurately the functional part 71 on the first envelope 21, and thus ultimately on the article of footwear 1. Since Article 1 is a three-dimensional object, the invention allows the introduction of the functional part on a volume. In fact, the functional part 71 has a three-dimensional structure. This structure has a shape identical or similar to the surface that it must marry. This facilitates its implementation and allows its positioning at the desired location.
  • the functional part 71 also has, in most cases, concave portions and / or convex portions, due to its conformability properties, conferred by the deformation of its mechanical structure (meshes) and / or the use of elastane filaments and / or elastic filaments.
  • the functional part 71 is made from a tubular section, that is to say a handle portion or a sock portion. This allows to place it at the desired location facing the envelopes 21, 31 by threading on one of two, or both at the same time. It is specified that the sock may be devoid of heel, or include one or more, and that the sock may be closed at one or both ends.
  • the functional piece has the shape of a sock, or sock, this makes it possible to obtain in addition a very precise longitudinal positioning during the placing on the envelope 21, 31, because of the stops constituted by the heel and the front end of the sock.
  • the functional part 71 is disposed on the first envelope 21.
  • the article 1 has, from the rear end 4 towards the front end 5, four zones. successive. These areas are a heel area 72, a plantar area 73, a metatarsal area 74, and a front area for receiving the toes of the foot.
  • the functional part is located in the metatarsal area.
  • the functional piece completely bypasses the metatarsal area, being oriented in a plane This gives the latter greater resistance to transverse deformations. A benefit that results is better ground support at the metatarsal level, with greater transverse stability.
  • the functional part 71 is housed between the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31. This makes its integration to Article 1 easier.
  • the functional part 71 comprises son 44 to 48 mechanically connected to each other, at least part of the son comprising at least one hot-melt filament 49. It is a question of being able to give a subdivision at less than the functional part 71 a stable, self-supporting structure, once the fusion is achieved.
  • the son which comprise at least one hot-melt filament are distributed over the entirety of the functional part 71, and the shape of the functional part 71 can be fixed or not by the fusion of the son which comprise at least one hot-melt filament.
  • the positioning means, the functional part 71 relative to the first casing 21, comprises in addition to the tubular shape of the handle portion, extensible son of reversibly, the son being associated with the structure of the functional part. That is to say that some of the constituent son of the functional part are elastic. These son are for example made of elastane.
  • the functional part 71 that is to say the handle portion, is due to its tubular shape and the presence of extensible wires, threaded onto, and takes place at the desired location around the first envelope 21, as we will understand later.
  • the sleeve 41 is threaded onto a part 76, called shape, which is in the image of the foot of the user.
  • the sleeve is applied to the shape 76 in the manner of a sock on a foot.
  • the sleeve 41 is shaped by the shape 76 thanks to its elasticity, which is due to its textile constitution.
  • the elasticity that makes it possible to shape the sleeve 41 is due to a reversible elastic deformation of the meshes constituting the sleeve.
  • the functional part 71 that is to say here the sleeve portion, is threaded onto the shape 76 around the first envelope 21 at the desired location, in this case, in the metatarsal zone 74. elasticity maintains it in the desired position, because it exerts a restraint on the shape and on the first envelope.
  • the reinforcement 51 is fitted on the subdivision of the sleeve 41 which will become the first envelope 21.
  • the subdivision of the sleeve 41 which will become the second envelope 31 is folded over the reinforcement 51, thereby covering the latter and the subdivision attributed to the first envelope and the functional part 71.
  • the second casing 31 has an orifice 77 for the passage of the lace 63.
  • the subset is sufficient to subject the subset to a rise temperature, by any suitable technique, to melt just the necessary level of the hot melt filaments of the envelopes and the functional part 71, and thus give the shoe 1, among others its geometry.
  • the functional part 71 provides an improvement in the resistance to deformation of the assembly, in the manner of a torsion box, which is particularly important in the metatarsal region to give more stability to the 'together.
  • the shape 76 can be removed from the subset.
  • the shoe 1 is almost finished. It suffices, according to the first embodiment, to add an outer sole 78.
  • the footwear 1, or shoe includes an outer sole 78.
  • the latter is intended to support on the floor and, therefore, is structured to resist frictional wear and also to cushion shocks. It therefore comprises, by way of example, a wear layer 79 and a damping layer 80.
  • FIG. 2 which is a transverse section in the region of the boot intended to accommodate the arch of the foot, notes that the bottom 12 has a non-planar geometry, substantially identical to that of the vault mentioned above.
  • the shoe 1 according to the invention is indeed able, as we said, to comply with the foot.
  • the shoe according to the invention is suitable for example very well for a runner.
  • FIG. 2 also shows that the reinforcement 51 is situated between the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31.
  • the clamping device 61 is also essentially located between the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31. This preserves it, for example by avoiding the attachment of the lace 63 in branches during a race in the forest.
  • first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31 are continuous in a cross section. These envelopes therefore extend continuously at their respective upper ends 29, 39, and thus at the upper end 13 of the shoe.
  • the boundary between the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31 is a fold 83 which delimits a wearing opening 84.
  • the periphery of the boot opening 84 is therefore delimited simply by folding the two envelopes 21, 31 one over the other. This means that this periphery has no seam or insert, as in the prior art, and that therefore the shoe 1 is not a source of discomfort for the user including the opening 84 .
  • the first envelope 21 has three zones 91, 92, 93 with different mechanical properties. These properties depend on the percentage of hot melt filaments contained in the yarns.
  • a first zone 91 with a high concentration of hot melt filaments for example between 60 and 100%.
  • the first zone 91 delimits the bottom 28 and the periphery of the bottom.
  • the second zone extends mainly at the level of the lateral edges 26 and medial 27.
  • the third zone extends mainly at the level of the upper end 29. This arrangement makes the first envelope 21 relatively inflexible towards the bottom 28, but more and more flexible towards the upper end 29.
  • the flexibility, or the elasticity is conditioned by the nature of the knit stitches and / or by the elasticity of the constituent material of the stitches. This elasticity allows the first envelope 21 to remain in contact with the foot, ankle or lower leg, which prevents the intrusion of foreign bodies. An elastic thread maintained in tension allows a good support of the foot.
  • the second envelope 31 has three zones 101, 102, 103 with different mechanical properties. These properties again depend on the percentage of hot melt filaments contained in the yarns.
  • a first zone 101 with a high concentration of hot melt filaments for example between 60 and 100%.
  • the first zone 101 delimits the bottom 38 and the periphery of the bottom.
  • the second zone extends mainly at the level of the lateral 36 and medial edges 37.
  • a third zone 103 with a low concentration of hot-melt filaments for example between 5 and 40%.
  • the third zone extends mainly at the level of the upper end 39.
  • This arrangement makes the second envelope 31 relatively inflexible towards the bottom 38, but more and more flexible towards the upper end 39.
  • the flexibility towards the the upper end allows the second envelope 31 to remain pressed against the foot, ankle or lower leg, which prevents the intrusion of foreign bodies.
  • an envelope that includes an elastic thread held in tension allows a good support of the foot.
  • the melting of the filaments conditions the physical or mechanical properties pro rata of the hot-melt filaments. For example, the more these are numerous, in percentage, the more the resistance to abrasion increases. Conversely, if the percentage of hot melt filaments is reduced, the elasticity is preserved. In other words, the higher the percentage of hot melt filaments, the higher the resistance to abrasion and the reduced elasticity. Conversely, if the percentage of hot-melt filaments is low, then the abrasion resistance is low and, as a corollary, the elasticity is important. Finally, when the envelopes 21, 31 and the functional part 71 are assembled, the shoe 1 sees its flexibility increase vertically from the bottom 12 to the upper end 13. This gives him on the one hand the ability to support the foot and on the other hand, the ability to reversibly deflect at the upper end 13 to facilitate donning or loosening.
  • each envelope and the functional part 71 are not limiting.
  • desired properties such as elasticity, sealing, wear resistance, fungicidal properties, a desired aesthetic appearance, or other.
  • the thickness of the first envelope 21 is less than or equal to 5 mm, knowing that values less than or equal to 3 mm have given good results. This makes the first envelope 21 light.
  • the thickness of the second envelope 31 is less than or equal to 5 mm, knowing that values less than or equal to 3 mm have given good results. This makes the second envelope 31 light.
  • the thickness of the functional part 71 is less than or equal to 3mm. This makes it light.
  • the thickness is measured after melting of the son which comprise at least one hot-melt filament.
  • the shoe 1 according to the invention is lighter than a shoe according to the prior art, with comparable technical characteristics.
  • FIGS. 1 to 14 The other embodiments of the invention are summarized below with reference to FIGS. 1 to 14. For the sake of convenience, it is above all the differences with respect to the first embodiment which are highlighted. . In addition, it is intended to use the same references for identical or similar elements seen in the first form.
  • FIGS. 11 and 12 there is an article footwear or shoe 1, with its rear ends 4 and front 5, its lateral edges 6 and medial 7, or its bottom 12 and its upper end 13 .
  • the second embodiment is the structure of the blank or sleeve 41. This extends well between a first end 42, for example closed, and a second end 43 open. However, the sleeve 41 is dimensioned to obtain the first envelope 21 only, to the exclusion of any other envelope or envelope subdivision. Consequently, it is the open end 43 of the first envelope 21 which alone delimits the boot opening 84.
  • the shoe 1 according to the second embodiment therefore comprises the first envelope 21, the functional part 71, and the reinforcement 51, with its clamping device 61, excluding any additional envelope. It can also be said that the reinforcement 51 covers the first envelope 21. This means that the shoe 1 is even lighter, compared to the shoe according to the first embodiment. It is also provided external sole 78, for the shoe according to the second form, although this is not mandatory.
  • the second embodiment comprises several functional parts.
  • the functional part 11 1 is a rear buttress. It is still a three-dimensional element.
  • the functional part 121 is a front end. This is also a three-dimensional element.
  • These elements 11 1, 121 improve for example the abrasion resistance, or confer a greater rigidity.
  • the three-dimensional shape facilitates placement and positioning.
  • one or more functional parts 71, 111, 121 may be provided.
  • Each functional piece is disposed either inside an envelope or outside of an envelope, or between two envelopes, depending on the desired technical effects.
  • the positioning means, the functional part 71, 1 1 1, 121 relative to the casing 21, 31, comprises a bonding product.
  • the positioning means the functional part relative to the envelope, comprises fastening elements.
  • the invention is applicable to any type of shoe with rod compatible material.
  • the rod is mounted on form, then the functional part having specific characteristics is placed on the rod, then its bonding is performed, and finally the outer sole is added.
  • the invention relates to a method of manufacturing an article of footwear comprising a first envelope, the first envelope extending in length from a rear end to a front end, in width between a lateral edge and a medial edge, and height from a bottom to an upper end, the method comprising a step of adding a functional part to the casing mounted on form before assembly with an external sole.
  • the functional part is provided with positioning means, for example by the use of a tubular section / sock portion or other three-dimensional shape allowing easy positioning and also by the use of extensible material for example for the tubular section / sock portion.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
PCT/FR2015/000136 2014-07-18 2015-07-07 Article chaussant à structure améliorée WO2016009115A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (9)

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KR1020167037093A KR20170033817A (ko) 2014-07-18 2015-07-07 개량형 구조를 가진 신발류
RU2017105009A RU2017105009A (ru) 2014-07-18 2015-07-07 Обувное изделие усовершенствованной конструкции
US15/326,907 US20170208900A1 (en) 2014-07-18 2015-07-07 Article of footwear with improved structure
EP15754256.4A EP3169178A1 (fr) 2014-07-18 2015-07-07 Article chaussant à structure améliorée
CA2954250A CA2954250A1 (fr) 2014-07-18 2015-07-07 Article chaussant a structure amelioree
JP2017503009A JP2017521178A (ja) 2014-07-18 2015-07-07 改善された構造を有する履物製品
CN201580038776.5A CN106535690B (zh) 2014-07-18 2015-07-07 具有改进结构的鞋制品
AU2015288990A AU2015288990A1 (en) 2014-07-18 2015-07-07 Item of footwear of improved structure
BR112017000245A BR112017000245A2 (pt) 2014-07-18 2015-07-07 artigo de calçamento de estrutura aperfeiçoada

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR14/01631 2014-07-18
FR1401631A FR3023683B1 (fr) 2014-07-18 2014-07-18 Article chaussant a structure amelioree

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WO2016009115A1 true WO2016009115A1 (fr) 2016-01-21

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US (1) US20170208900A1 (zh)
EP (1) EP3169178A1 (zh)
JP (1) JP2017521178A (zh)
KR (1) KR20170033817A (zh)
CN (1) CN106535690B (zh)
AR (1) AR101232A1 (zh)
AU (1) AU2015288990A1 (zh)
BR (1) BR112017000245A2 (zh)
CA (1) CA2954250A1 (zh)
FR (1) FR3023683B1 (zh)
RU (1) RU2017105009A (zh)
TW (1) TW201615114A (zh)
WO (1) WO2016009115A1 (zh)

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WO2018112129A1 (en) * 2016-12-16 2018-06-21 The North Face Apparel Corp. Footwear article including circular knit structures
EP3372103A1 (en) * 2017-03-10 2018-09-12 Wholeknit International Co., Ltd. Method for manufacturing integral shoe embryo
CN108691083A (zh) * 2017-04-06 2018-10-23 纮织国际有限公司 一体成型鞋胚的制造方法
IT201700048479A1 (it) * 2017-05-05 2018-11-05 Aksolut S R L Tomaia in maglia per calzature e relativa calzatura
WO2021009326A1 (fr) * 2019-07-17 2021-01-21 Decathlon Procede de fabrication d'un article chaussant
US11408104B2 (en) 2016-12-16 2022-08-09 The North Face Apparel Corp. Footwear article including circular knit structures
CN115023159A (zh) * 2019-11-13 2022-09-06 北面服饰公司 包含圆形针织结构的鞋类制品
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WO2019046387A2 (en) * 2017-08-31 2019-03-07 Nike Innovate C.V. FOOTWEAR WITH A SOFT ROD AND STRUCTURE HAVING SUBSTANTIALLY EQUAL FRICTION COEFFICIENTS
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US20190166952A1 (en) * 2017-12-05 2019-06-06 Reebok International Limited Article of footwear with dispensed saddle
US20190166950A1 (en) * 2017-12-06 2019-06-06 Agnes Yen Sinclair Elastic Woven Shoe
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EP3981276A1 (en) * 2018-07-20 2022-04-13 Nike Innovate C.V. Upper for an article of footwear having an inner component and a shroud
US11486069B2 (en) 2018-09-26 2022-11-01 Santoni S.P.A. Process for manufacturing a tubular intarsia knitted item by means of a circular weft knitting machine
WO2020214379A1 (en) * 2019-04-17 2020-10-22 Nike Innovate C.V. Footwear upper with branched forefoot straps
FR3098690B1 (fr) * 2019-07-17 2021-07-30 Decathlon Sa Procédé de fabrication d’un article chaussant
DE102019220470B4 (de) 2019-12-20 2023-05-17 Adidas Ag Gestricktes Schuhoberteil mit integralen Ösen
IT202000001459A1 (it) * 2020-01-24 2021-07-24 Trere Innovation S R L Struttura e procedimento di realizzazione di una scarpa con tomaia in maglia.
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IT202100020774A1 (it) * 2021-08-02 2023-02-02 Santoni & C Spa Procedimento per realizzare un manufatto tessile tubolare con una macchina tessile circolare per maglieria, e tomaia per calzatura realizzata mediante tale procedimento
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WO2017129371A3 (de) * 2016-01-28 2017-09-14 Elten GmbH Diabetiker-sicherheitsschuh und verfahren zu dessen anpassung
EP3199048A1 (de) * 2016-01-28 2017-08-02 Elten GmbH Diabetiker-sicherheitsschuh und verfahren zu dessen anpassung
US11286591B2 (en) 2016-12-16 2022-03-29 The North Face Apparel Corp. Footwear article including circular knit structures
WO2018112129A1 (en) * 2016-12-16 2018-06-21 The North Face Apparel Corp. Footwear article including circular knit structures
US11408104B2 (en) 2016-12-16 2022-08-09 The North Face Apparel Corp. Footwear article including circular knit structures
US10316441B2 (en) 2016-12-16 2019-06-11 The North Face Apparel Corp. Footwear article including circular knit structures
CN110402090A (zh) * 2016-12-16 2019-11-01 北面服饰公司 包含圆形针织结构的鞋类制品
CN110402090B (zh) * 2016-12-16 2022-06-14 北面服饰公司 包含圆形针织结构的鞋类制品
EP3372103A1 (en) * 2017-03-10 2018-09-12 Wholeknit International Co., Ltd. Method for manufacturing integral shoe embryo
CN108691083A (zh) * 2017-04-06 2018-10-23 纮织国际有限公司 一体成型鞋胚的制造方法
CN108691083B (zh) * 2017-04-06 2020-09-08 纮织国际有限公司 一体成型鞋胚的制造方法
IT201700048479A1 (it) * 2017-05-05 2018-11-05 Aksolut S R L Tomaia in maglia per calzature e relativa calzatura
FR3098689A1 (fr) * 2019-07-17 2021-01-22 Decathlon Procédé de fabrication d’un article chaussant
WO2021009326A1 (fr) * 2019-07-17 2021-01-21 Decathlon Procede de fabrication d'un article chaussant
CN115023159A (zh) * 2019-11-13 2022-09-06 北面服饰公司 包含圆形针织结构的鞋类制品
WO2023139522A1 (en) * 2022-01-19 2023-07-27 Puma SE Article of footwear having a frame

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AR101232A1 (es) 2016-11-30
TW201615114A (zh) 2016-05-01
KR20170033817A (ko) 2017-03-27
JP2017521178A (ja) 2017-08-03
RU2017105009A (ru) 2018-08-20
EP3169178A1 (fr) 2017-05-24
BR112017000245A2 (pt) 2017-10-31
US20170208900A1 (en) 2017-07-27
CN106535690B (zh) 2019-11-01
FR3023683A1 (fr) 2016-01-22
AU2015288990A1 (en) 2017-02-09
CN106535690A (zh) 2017-03-22
CA2954250A1 (fr) 2016-01-21
FR3023683B1 (fr) 2017-06-16

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