WO2016004792A1 - 一种可控变色的粉底霜/粉底液 - Google Patents

一种可控变色的粉底霜/粉底液 Download PDF

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WO2016004792A1
WO2016004792A1 PCT/CN2015/079027 CN2015079027W WO2016004792A1 WO 2016004792 A1 WO2016004792 A1 WO 2016004792A1 CN 2015079027 W CN2015079027 W CN 2015079027W WO 2016004792 A1 WO2016004792 A1 WO 2016004792A1
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Prior art keywords
foundation
color
liquid
changing
inorganic pigment
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PCT/CN2015/079027
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English (en)
French (fr)
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蒲科
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上海蔻沣生物科技有限公司
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Priority to ES15818579T priority Critical patent/ES2727958T3/es
Priority to US14/912,164 priority patent/US20160184206A1/en
Priority to EP15818579.3A priority patent/EP3120829B1/en
Publication of WO2016004792A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016004792A1/zh
Priority to US15/985,145 priority patent/US20180263884A1/en
Priority to US16/039,172 priority patent/US20180318188A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585Organosilicon compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022Powders; Compacted Powders
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26Optical properties
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/524Preservatives

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a cosmetic and a preparation method thereof, in particular to a controllable discoloration foundation cream/foundation liquid and a preparation method thereof.
  • Foundation cream/foundation is a very important cosmetic category and the basis for good makeup. Cosmetics manufacturers usually provide different colors of foundation (such as dark skin, light skin tone) according to the user's skin color. The appearance color of the ordinary foundation cream is basically the same as the actual use color.
  • Discoloration is usually the process of applying a paste from a light color (such as grayish white, white) to a darker color (such as dark skin, light skin tone); or from one color (such as light yellow) to another Color (such as deep red). It can not only play the role of ordinary foundation to cover the skin's fine wrinkles or blemishes, but also has obvious discoloration effect. It is very novel and is very suitable for creating market concepts and attracting consumers' attention.
  • the surface of an inorganic pigment (usually iron oxide yellow, iron oxide red, iron oxide black, etc.) used in a cosmetic foundation is made of cellulose as a binding medium to bind ultrafine titanium dioxide.
  • the preparation method is very close to the folk traditional food: Lantern (with the filling as the core and the surface adheres to the wet glutinous rice flour).
  • Lantern with the filling as the core and the surface adheres to the wet glutinous rice flour.
  • the titanium dioxide adhered to the surface of the pigment is detached by the shearing force, the color of the pigment itself is revealed, and the foundation reaches a process of converting from white (or grayish white) like skin color. As shown in Figure 1.
  • the color change is achieved by the refraction and scattering of light by pearl powder.
  • the pearl powder emulsified in the paste is applied to the surface of the skin to be exposed to light, thereby exhibiting a change in color.
  • the hiding power is weak.
  • the particle size (particle size) and shape of the inorganic pigment are generally stable (for example, iron oxide red is usually spherical, the particle diameter is usually 0.3-0.5 um; the iron oxide black is usually cubic, and the particle size is usually about 0.3 um).
  • the particle size of titanium dioxide should be as small as possible (usually nano-titanium dioxide); and in order to achieve a rapid and obvious discoloration effect, the amount of titanium dioxide adhered to the surface of the inorganic pigment should not be too much, and the adhesion layer should not be too thick. . Therefore, it is difficult to achieve good hiding power.
  • the speed of discoloration depends on the magnitude of the external force, the speed of application, and the firmness of the bonded particles. Slow and gentle application is not conducive to the breakage of the particles, which is not conducive to the appearance of discoloration.
  • the foundation cream/liquid is rarely repeatedly applied by force, which affects the color change speed and discoloration effect of the product.
  • the firmness of cellulose bonding is a contradiction: the adhesion is too strong, the foundation cream/liquid is difficult to change color when used; the adhesion is too low, and it will be in the foundation cream/liquid production and filling process. Particle breakage occurs and inorganic pigments appear prematurely.
  • the cellulose-bonded color-changing foundation has high requirements on the production process: the stirring paddle can not scratch the wall; the powder needs to be pre-soaked according to strict time and temperature; the emulsification time and temperature must be strictly controlled; otherwise the quality of the product Hard to control.
  • the color-changing pearl powder is hidden in the paste, does not touch the light, and does not see the color effect of the pearl powder; after the application, the pearl powder is coated on the surface of the skin to contact the light to reveal the color. This is the principle of this color changing technique.
  • Pearlescent powder has a sparkling pearlescent effect, which is more suitable for use in eye shadow, lip gloss and other parts in the makeup process.
  • the foundation is used as the foundation of makeup for the entire face. If the entire face is shiny, it will obviously be unnatural.
  • acid-base indicators are: nitrophenols, phenolphthaleins, sulfophenolphthaleins, azo compounds. Basically belong to organic weak acid or organic weak base. Most of these reagents are not on the cosmetic ingredients list and are not allowed in cosmetics.
  • the technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a controllable color-changing foundation cream/foundation liquid and a preparation method thereof.
  • the invention solves the defects of the above solution from the technical roots, and the discoloration effect of the prepared color changing foundation/liquid foundation is controllable and fast; the hiding power is strong; the color is diverse; the safety is harmless; and the production process is simple.
  • a powder premix for a color changing foundation/foundation comprising titanium dioxide and an inorganic pigment, wherein the titanium dioxide is surface treated by triethoxymethylsilylation; the inorganic pigment is triethoxyoctyl Silanized surface treatment.
  • the present invention adopts completely different surface treatment methods for the titanium dioxide and the inorganic pigment (iron oxide) in the foundation cream/liquid, so that the surface properties of the two powders are significantly different. After different surface treatments, the surface properties of inorganic pigments and titanium dioxide have a large difference:
  • An octyl group having eight carbon atoms is attached to the silicon atom on the surface of the inorganic pigment. Because of the long carbon chain, it has good dispersibility in aliphatic fats and oils; and the compatibility in siloxanes is relatively poor.
  • the silicon atom on the surface of titanium dioxide is bonded to a methyl group of a carbon atom. Because of its short carbon chain, it has better compatibility in siloxane.
  • the color-changing foundation/foundation liquid produced by the powder premix of the present invention can have a technical effect of controllable and fast discoloration effect, strong hiding power, various colors, and safety.
  • the powder premix for a color changing foundation/foundation liquid of the present invention wherein the inorganic pigment comprises iron oxide yellow, iron oxide red, iron oxide black. It can also be other inorganic pigments that can be used in foundations. A wide range of foundations/foundations are easily obtained by adjusting the amount of inorganic pigments in different colors.
  • the powder premix for a color-changing foundation/foundation liquid of the present invention wherein the specific process of the surface treatment may employ other known surface treatment methods as long as the corresponding technical effects can be achieved.
  • the surface properties of the treated titanium dioxide are: a methyl group bonded to a carbon atom after the surface silicon atom; the surface property of the treated inorganic pigment is: an octyl group of eight carbon atoms connected after the surface silicon atom.
  • the present invention further provides a preferred surface treatment method which can achieve a better surface treatment effect, and the surface properties of titanium dioxide and inorganic pigments are more stable and more uniform in distribution.
  • the process of the triethoxymethylsilylation surface treatment of the titanium dioxide is preferably:
  • the powder was discharged and immediately sent to an oven, baked at 105 ° C for 4 hours, and naturally cooled and discharged.
  • the process of the triethoxyoctylsilylation surface treatment of the inorganic pigment is preferably:
  • 15kg of inorganic pigment is added to the high-speed mixer, and the above-mentioned surface treatment liquid is sprayed into the high-speed mixer through the fuel injection tank under high-speed stirring, and fully stirred to uniformly mix the reaction liquid and the inorganic pigment;
  • the powder is discharged and immediately sent to an oven and baked at 105 ° C for 4 hours. If the inorganic pigment is iron oxide yellow, the baking temperature is 70 ° C, and the material is naturally cooled.
  • the powder premix for color changing foundation/foundation liquid provided by the invention wherein the surface treated titanium dioxide content is 75-95% by mass, and the rest is the surface treated inorganic pigment.
  • a preferred color-changing powder premix CC807 (the following percentages are by mass percent):
  • Triethoxymethylsilane treated titanium dioxide 88%
  • Triethoxyoctylsilane treated iron oxide red 3%
  • Triethoxyoctylsilane treated iron oxide black 1.4%.
  • the invention artificially manufactures and expands the difference in surface properties between the titanium dioxide and the inorganic pigment through a specific surface treatment method, and then utilizes a specific formulation composition, so that the titanium dioxide and the inorganic pigment are in different distribution states in the entire emulsion system, thereby achieving Controlled decolorization effect.
  • the present invention provides a controllable color-changing foundation/foundation liquid comprising the above-mentioned powder premix for a color-changing foundation/foundation.
  • emulsifiers, emollients, preservatives and flavors may also be included as required.
  • the emollient is a silane emollient or the like.
  • the preparation method can be carried out by using a known method of preparing a foundation/liquid foundation.
  • the emulsification technology for the color-changing foundation/foundation liquid is still very strict, and it is necessary to completely emulsifie and uniformly disperse.
  • the present invention further optimizes the formulation and preparation process of the color changing foundation/foundation liquid exclusively using the powder premix, which can optimize the effect of the powder premix in use.
  • a preferred color changing foundation/liquid foundation formulation and preparation process is as follows:
  • the above formula and preparation process adopt a specific formula and an optimized process, and the powder premix of the invention is completely emulsified in the cream/liquid and uniformly dispersed by using a special process of mixing four phases A, B, C and D.
  • the effect can be quickly changed when used, and the effect is optimal.
  • the color-changing foundation of the present invention is lightly applied on the skin, and immediately has a discoloration effect.
  • the color changing foundation of the invention has no limitation on the particle size, and the amount added in the formulation is not greatly limited, and a very good hiding power can be achieved.
  • the amount of iron oxide added in the formulation is not greatly limited, and a very good coloring effect can be achieved.
  • the color-changing foundation treated by the method does not contain an acid-base indicator and has no damage to the skin.
  • the above surface treatment method has many years of application in cosmetics, and is safe and non-toxic.
  • the production process is simple and controllable, and the material body is resistant to shear, extrusion and vibration. Suitable for the production and transportation of cosmetics manufacturers.
  • the color changing cream formulations designed by the present invention are all water-in-silicone emulsion systems. Although the skin feels smooth and breathable, it is not moisturizing enough. Autumn and winter seasons need to be used in conjunction with other skin care products.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of the principle of cellulose bonding technology in the background art
  • Figure 2 is a reaction process diagram of surface treatment of titanium dioxide of the present invention
  • Figure 3 is a graph showing the surface chemical properties of the titanium dioxide of the present invention after surface treatment
  • Figure 4 is a reaction process diagram of surface treatment of the inorganic pigment of the present invention.
  • Fig. 5 is a graph showing the surface chemical properties of the inorganic pigment of the present invention after surface treatment.
  • the powder was discharged and immediately sent to an oven, baked at 105 ° C for 4 hours, and naturally cooled and discharged.
  • 15kg of inorganic pigment is added to the high-speed mixer, and the above-mentioned surface treatment liquid is sprayed into the high-speed mixer through the fuel injection tank under high-speed stirring, and fully stirred to uniformly mix the reaction liquid and the inorganic pigment;
  • the powder is discharged and immediately sent to an oven and baked at 105 ° C for 4 hours. If the inorganic pigment is iron oxide yellow, the baking temperature is 70 ° C, and the material is naturally cooled.
  • Example 2 Several different proportions of color-changing powder premix: the following ratios are all by mass percent,
  • Foundation products are the basis of makeup. Usually, the content of titanium dioxide is between 75% and 95%. If it is too high, it is too white. If it is too low, the color is too heavy, which is not conducive to achieving a good makeup effect.
  • the foundation product of the embodiment 3 of the invention has obvious discoloration effect during use, has fast discoloration, strong hiding power, is easy to spread evenly, and is easily absorbed by air.
  • the invention collects feedbacks from 30 testers (all females, ages 18-45 years; trial time: May 2014; trial location: 15 in Shanghai; 15 in Guangzhou) (multiple choices), the overall is as follows:
  • the formula and preparation process of the controllable color-changing foundation cream/liquid foundation of the invention adopts a specific formula and an optimized process, and the powder premix of the invention is realized by a special process of mixing four phases of A, B, C and D. It is completely emulsified in the cream/liquid, and has a uniform dispersion effect, and can be quickly discolored when used, and the effect is optimal.
  • the controllable color-changing foundation cream/foundation liquid has the advantages of quick discoloration effect, strong hiding power, rich and diverse colors, adjustable depth, safety, simple production process, great market prospect and strong industrial applicability.

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Abstract

一种可控变色的粉底霜或粉底液及其制备方法。所述变色粉底霜或粉底液的粉体预混料包含二氧化钛和无机颜料,其中所述二氧化钛经过三乙氧基甲基硅烷化表面处理;所述无机颜料经过三乙氧基辛基硅烷化表面处理。

Description

一种可控变色的粉底霜/粉底液 技术领域
本发明涉及一种化妆品及其制备方法,尤其是涉及一种可控变色的粉底霜/粉底液及其制备方法。
背景技术
粉底霜/粉底液是一种非常重要的化妆品品类,也是做到好的妆容效果的基础。化妆品厂家通常根据使用者肤色深浅,提供不同颜色的粉底(如深肤色、浅肤色)等。普通粉底霜的外观颜色和实际使用颜色基本一致。
为了创造新颖的视觉效果,达到吸引消费者的目的,近年来出现了新型的变色粉底。变色通常是在涂抹的过程中,膏体从浅色(如灰白色、白色)转化为较深的颜色(如深肤色、浅肤色);或者从一种颜色(如浅黄色)转化为另一种颜色(如深红色)。既能起到普通粉底遮盖皮肤细小皱纹或者瑕疵的作用,又有明显的变色效果,非常新颖,很适合营造市场概念并吸引消费者眼球。
目前市场上出现的变色粉底,通常有下面三种:
1、纤维素粘合技术
在化妆品粉底中使用的无机颜料(通常是氧化铁黄、氧化铁红、氧化铁黑等)表面,以纤维素做粘合介质,粘合超微细二氧化钛。制备方法非常接近民间传统食品:元宵(以馅料为核心,表面粘附湿的糯米粉)。在使用时,通过手指的涂抹,粘附在颜料表面的二氧化钛在剪切力作用下脱离,颜料本身的颜色显现出来,粉底达到一个从白色(或者灰白色)像肤色转化的过程。如图1所示。
2、变色珠光粉技术
通过珠光粉对光线的折射和散射,达到变色效果。使用时,被乳化包裹在膏体中的珠光粉,涂布在皮肤表面,接触到光线的照射,从而显示出色彩的变化。
3、利用酸碱指示剂
利用几种酸碱指示剂,在外界酸碱度(pH值)变化的情况下,会发生颜色变化的原理制备。在使用时,酸碱指示剂接触到皮肤(通常pH值为弱酸性),发生颜色改变,从而产生变色效果。
上述三种变色粉底,在实际应用中都存在明显缺陷:
1、纤维素粘合技术的缺陷:
(1)遮盖力弱。无机颜料的颗粒大小(粒径)和形状通常是稳定的(例如:氧化铁红通常是球状,粒径通常是0.3-0.5um;氧化铁黑通常为立方体,粒径通常是0.3um左右),为了达到好的粘附包裹作用,二氧化钛的粒径要尽可能小(常用纳米二氧化钛);而且为了达到快速明显的变色效果,无机颜料表面粘附的二氧化钛量不能太多,粘附层不能太厚。所以难以达到良好的遮盖力。
(2)变色速度慢。
粉底在使用时,有一个涂抹推移过程,包裹了二氧化钛的氧化铁颗粒,在剪切力作用下破碎,原来被包裹在里面的氧化铁显露出来,才会产生变色效果。
所以变色的速度,取决于外力的大小,涂抹的速度,和粘合颗粒的牢固程度。缓慢轻柔的涂抹,不利于颗粒的破碎,也就不利于变色效果显现。但是作为一种面部使用化妆品,粉底霜/液在使用时很少会被用力快速的反复涂抹,这就影响了该产品的变色速度和变色效果。
(3)生产工艺难以掌握。
纤维素粘合的牢固度是一个矛盾:粘合牢固度过高,粉底霜/液在使用时难以出现变色效果;粘合牢固度过低,在粉底霜/液生产和灌装过程中就会出现颗粒破碎,无机颜料过早显现出来。
所以实际生产中,纤维素粘合的变色粉底对生产工艺有很高的要求:搅拌桨不能刮壁;粉末需要按照严格的时间和温度预先浸泡;乳化时间和温度必须严格控制;否则产品的品质很难控制。
2、变色珠光粉技术的缺陷
(1)变色效果不明显
在涂抹之前,变色珠光粉隐藏在膏体之中,不接触光线,看不到珠光粉的色彩效果;在涂抹之后,珠光粉涂布在皮肤表面,接触光线,显现颜色。这是这种变色技术的原理。
但是珠光粉的显色效果,比起氧化铁的显色效果要弱很多。而粉底霜的主要作用就是遮盖瑕疵,调整肤色;这一点来说,珠光粉就显得力不从心。
(2)珠光粉的闪亮效果,注定不适合整个面部使用
珠光粉天然就有闪耀的珠光效果,在化妆过程中更适合用在眼影、唇彩等局部;而粉底作为化妆的基础,是使用于整个面部的。整个脸部如果都闪闪发亮,显然会很不自然。
3、利用酸碱指示剂
(1)只有颜色变化效果,但不能起到粉底产品应有的修饰且保护的效果。
只有一个颜色变化的过程。不能起到遮盖瑕疵,调整肤色的作用。
(2)对人体有害无益
常用的酸碱指示剂主要有:硝基酚类、酚酞类、磺代酚酞类、偶氮化合物类。基本都属于有机弱酸或有机弱碱。这些试剂大多数并不在化妆品原料名录上面,是不允许使用在化妆品中的。
发明内容
本发明所解决的技术问题是提供一种可控变色的粉底霜/粉底液及其制备方法。本发明从技术根源上解决了上述方案的缺陷,制备得到的变色粉底霜/粉底液变色效果可控且快;遮盖力强;颜色多样;安全无害;生产工艺简单。
本发明采用的技术方案是:
一种用于变色粉底霜/粉底液的粉体预混料,包含二氧化钛和无机颜料,其中所述二氧化钛经过三乙氧基甲基硅烷化表面处理;所述无机颜料经过三乙氧基辛基硅烷化表面处理。本发明,对于粉底霜/液中的二氧化钛和无机颜料(氧化铁),采取了完全不同的表面处理方法,使这两种粉体的表面性质具有明显差异。经过不同的表面处理,无机颜料和二氧化钛的表面性质有了比较大的差异:
无机颜料表面硅原子后面连接有八个碳原子的辛基。因为碳链长,在脂肪族油脂中有良好的分散性;而在硅氧烷中相容性比较差。
二氧化钛表面的硅原子后面连接的是一个碳原子的甲基,因为碳链短,所以在硅氧烷中有更好的相容性。
由此,经由本发明的粉体预混料制作的变色粉底霜/粉底液,可以具有变色效果可控且快、遮盖力强、颜色多样、安全无害等技术效果。
本发明的用于变色粉底霜/粉底液的粉体预混料,其中所述无机颜料包括氧化铁黄、氧化铁红、氧化铁黑。还可以是其他可用于粉底的无机颜料。通过调整不同颜色的无机颜料的含量就可以轻松得到多种多样的粉底霜/粉底液。
本发明的用于变色粉底霜/粉底液的粉体预混料,其中所述表面处理的具体过程可以采用其他已知的表面处理方法,只要是能达到相应的技术效果就可以。处理后的二氧化钛的表面性质是:在表面硅原子后连接一个碳原子的甲基;处理后的无机颜料的表面性质是:在表面硅原子后连接八个碳原子的辛基。
在此基础上,本发明进一步提供一种优选的表面处理方法,其可以达到更好的表面处理效果,二氧化钛和无机颜料的表面性质更稳定,且分布更均匀。
其中所述二氧化钛的三乙氧基甲基硅烷化表面处理的过程优选为:
0.45kg三乙氧基甲基硅烷,与1.05kg的95%乙醇混合均匀,做成表面处理液,即配即用;
15kg二氧化钛加入高速搅拌机,在高速搅拌下,将上述配好的表面处理液通过喷油罐喷 入高速搅拌机,充分搅拌,使反应液和二氧化钛混合均匀;
粉末出料,立即送入烘箱,105℃烘烤4小时,自然冷却出料。
反应过程如图2所示。处理后,粉体表面化学性质如图3所示。
其中所述无机颜料的三乙氧基辛基硅烷化表面处理的过程优选为:
0.45kg三乙氧基辛基硅烷,与1.05kg的95%乙醇混合均匀,做成表面处理液,即配即用;
15kg无机颜料加入高速搅拌机,在高速搅拌下,将上述配好的表面处理液通过喷油罐喷入高速搅拌机,充分搅拌,使反应液和无机颜料混合均匀;
粉末出料,立即送入烘箱,105℃烘烤4小时,若无机颜料为氧化铁黄时,烘烤温度为70℃,自然冷却出料。
反应过程如图4所示。处理后,粉体表面化学性质如图5所示。
本发明提供的用于变色粉底霜/粉底液的粉体预混料,其中表面处理后的二氧化钛含量为质量百分比的75~95%,其余是表面处理后的无机颜料。例如优选的变色粉体预混料CC807(下列百分比均为质量百分含量):
三乙氧基甲基硅烷处理的二氧化钛:88%,,
三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理的氧化铁黄:7.6%,
三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理的氧化铁红:3%,
三乙氧基辛基硅烷处理的氧化铁黑:1.4%。
本发明通过特定的表面处理方法,人为制造和扩大二氧化钛和无机颜料之间的表面性质差异,再利用特定的配方组成,使二氧化钛和无机颜料在整个乳化体系中处于不同的分布状态,从而达到可控的脱色效果。
更进一步,本发明提供一种可控变色的粉底霜/粉底液,含有上述的用于变色粉底霜/粉底液的粉体预混料。此外,还可以根据要求含有乳化剂、润肤剂、防腐剂和香精。所述润肤剂为硅烷润肤剂等。其制备方法可以采用已知的粉底霜/粉底液的制备方法。
但是,为了使本发明的粉体预混料发挥出其最优的变色效果,对于其在变色粉底霜/粉底液中的乳化技术要求还是很严格的,必须使其乳化完全,分散均匀。
故而,本发明更优化了专使用所述粉体预混料的变色粉底霜/粉底液的配方和制备工艺,其可以使粉体预混料的效果在使用时达到最优。
一种优选的变色粉底霜/粉底液的配方和制备工艺如下:
配方组成:
Figure PCTCN2015079027-appb-000001
制备工艺:
1、将A相混合搅拌,均质1分钟,使DC9040硅胶弹性体完全分散均匀。
2、将A相加热至55-60度,加入B相粉料,均质1分钟,使粉末分散均匀。
3、同时C相加热至55-60度左右溶解完全。
4、加快AB相搅拌速度(200-300转/分钟),将C相缓慢加入AB相中,使乳化完全。
5、搅拌降温至45度以下,加入D相,使膏体颜色变白,出料。
6、降温过程,搅拌速度为(200-300转/分钟)。约2-3小时变白。
上述配方和制备工艺,采用了特定的配方以及优化工艺,采用A、B、C、D四相混合的特殊工艺实现了本发明的粉体预混料在霜/液中乳化完全,分散均匀的效果,且使用时可以快速变色,效果最优。
综合上述,本发明取得的技术效果有:
1、变色效果快
本发明的变色粉底,在皮肤上轻轻涂抹,马上就有变色效果。
2、遮盖力强
本发明的变色粉底,粒径大小不受限制,配方中添加量也没有很大限制,可以达到非常好的遮盖力。
3、色彩丰富多样,深浅可调
本发明的变色粉底,氧化铁在配方中添加量也没有很大限制,可以达到非常好的着色效果。
4、安全
本方法处理的变色粉底,不含酸碱指示剂,对皮肤没有伤害。上述的表面处理方法,在化妆品方面都有多年应用,安全无毒害。
5、生产工艺简单
生产工艺简单可控,料体耐剪切、耐挤压、耐振动。适合化妆品厂家生产和运输。
为了达到良好的变色效果,本发明设计的变色霜配方,均为硅油包水乳化体系。虽然肤感柔滑,透气清爽,但是滋润度不够。秋冬季节需要搭配其他的护肤产品使用。
附图说明
图1是背景技术中纤维素粘合技术的原理示意图;
图2是本发明的二氧化钛的表面处理的反应过程图;
图3是本发明的二氧化钛经表面处理后的粉体表面化学性质图;
图4是本发明的无机颜料的表面处理的反应过程图;
图5是本发明的无机颜料经表面处理后的粉体表面化学性质图。
具体实施方式
为进一步说明本发明,结合以下实施例具体说明:
实施例1:
二氧化钛的三乙氧基甲基硅烷化表面处理的过程:
0.45kg三乙氧基甲基硅烷,与1.05kg的95%乙醇混合均匀,做成表面处理液,即配即用;
15kg二氧化钛加入高速搅拌机,在高速搅拌下,将上述配好的表面处理液通过喷油罐喷入高速搅拌机,充分搅拌,使反应液和二氧化钛混合均匀;
粉末出料,立即送入烘箱,105℃烘烤4小时,自然冷却出料。
无机颜料的三乙氧基辛基硅烷化表面处理的过程:
0.45kg三乙氧基辛基硅烷,与1.05kg的95%乙醇混合均匀,做成表面处理液,即配即用;
15kg无机颜料加入高速搅拌机,在高速搅拌下,将上述配好的表面处理液通过喷油罐喷入高速搅拌机,充分搅拌,使反应液和无机颜料混合均匀;
粉末出料,立即送入烘箱,105℃烘烤4小时,若无机颜料为氧化铁黄时,烘烤温度为70℃,自然冷却出料。
实施例2:几种不同配比的变色粉体预混料:以下配比均为质量百分含量,
Figure PCTCN2015079027-appb-000002
以上配比的调节仅仅在粉底产品的颜色中有所体现,可以根据所需粉底产品的颜色进行自由调配。粉底产品作为化妆的基础,通常二氧化钛的含量在75%-95%之间,太高则太白,太低则颜色过重,不利于达到良好的化妆的效果。
实施例3:变色粉底霜
配方组成:
Figure PCTCN2015079027-appb-000003
Figure PCTCN2015079027-appb-000004
制备工艺:
1、将A相混合搅拌,均质1分钟,使DC9040硅胶弹性体完全分散均匀。
2、将A相加热至55-60度,加入B相粉料,均质1分钟,使粉末分散均匀。
3、同时C相加热至55-60度左右溶解完全。
4、加快AB相搅拌速度(200-300转/分钟),将C相缓慢加入AB相中,使乳化完全。
5、搅拌降温至45度以下,加入D相,使膏体颜色变白,出料。
6、降温过程,搅拌速度为(200-300转/分钟)。约2-3小时变白。
本发明实施例3的粉底产品在使用过程中具有明显的变色效果,变色快,遮盖力强,易涂抹均匀,透气易吸收。本发明收集了30位试用者(均为女性,年龄18-45岁;试用时间:2014年5月;试用地点:上海15位;广州15位)的反馈意见(可多选),总体如下:
变色超快,刚抹上全为白色,瞬间变为肤色或裸色,很神奇,很有趣 28位
变色后的遮盖力不错 22位
肤感柔滑 18位
很透气 14位
持久度不错 9位
有一点点干 6位
上市会考虑购买 27位
以上所述的实施例仅仅是对本发明的优选实施方式进行描述,并非对本发明的范围进行限定,在不脱离本发明设计精神的前提下,本领域普通工程技术人员对本发明的技术方案作出的各种变形和改进,均应落入本发明的权利要求书确定的保护范围内。
工业实用性
本发明可控变色的粉底霜/粉底液的配方和制备工艺,采用了特定的配方以及优化工艺,采用A、B、C、D四相混合的特殊工艺实现了本发明的粉体预混料在霜/液中乳化完全,分散均匀的效果,且使用时可以快速变色,效果最优。本发明可控变色的粉底霜/粉底液变色效果快、遮盖力强、色彩丰富多样,深浅可调、安全、生产工艺简单,具有很大的市场前景和很强的工业实用性。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种用于变色粉底霜/粉底液的粉体预混料,包含二氧化钛和无机颜料,其特征在于:所述二氧化钛经过三乙氧基甲基硅烷化表面处理;所述无机颜料经过三乙氧基辛基硅烷化表面处理。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的用于变色粉底霜/粉底液的粉体预混料,其特征在于:所述无机颜料包括氧化铁黄、氧化铁红、氧化铁黑。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的用于变色粉底霜/粉底液的粉体预混料,其特征在于:所述表面处理后的二氧化钛的表面性质是:在表面硅原子后连接一个碳原子的甲基;所述表面处理后的无机颜料的表面性质是:在表面硅原子后连接八个碳原子的辛基。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的用于变色粉底霜/粉底液的粉体预混料,其特征在于:所述二氧化钛的三乙氧基甲基硅烷化表面处理的过程为:
    0.45kg三乙氧基甲基硅烷,与1.05kg的95%乙醇混合均匀,做成表面处理液,即配即用;
    15kg二氧化钛加入高速搅拌机,在高速搅拌下,将上述配好的表面处理液通过喷油罐喷入高速搅拌机,充分搅拌,使反应液和二氧化钛混合均匀;
    粉末出料,立即送入烘箱,105℃烘烤4小时,自然冷却出料。
  5. 根据权利要求1或2所述的用于变色粉底霜/粉底液的粉体预混料,其特征在于:所述无机颜料的三乙氧基辛基硅烷化表面处理的过程为:
    0.45kg三乙氧基辛基硅烷,与1.05kg的95%乙醇混合均匀,做成表面处理液,即配即用;
    15kg无机颜料加入高速搅拌机,在高速搅拌下,将上述配好的表面处理液通过喷油罐喷入高速搅拌机,充分搅拌,使反应液和无机颜料混合均匀;
    粉末出料,立即送入烘箱,105℃烘烤4小时,若无机颜料为氧化铁黄时,烘烤温度为70℃,自然冷却出料。
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的用于变色粉底霜/粉底液的粉体预混料,其特征在于:其中表面处理后的二氧化钛含量为质量百分比的75~95%,其余是表面处理后的无机颜料。
  7. 一种可控变色的粉底霜/粉底液,其特征在于:含有权利要求1-6任一项所述的用于变色粉底霜/粉底液的粉体预混料。
  8. 根据权利要求7所述的粉底霜/粉底液,其特征在于:还含有乳化剂、润肤剂、防腐剂和香精。
  9. 根据权利要求8所述的粉底霜/粉底液,其特征在于:所述润肤剂为硅烷润肤剂。
  10. 根据权利要求7所述的粉底霜/粉底液,其特征在于:所述粉丝预混料在粉底霜/粉底 液中乳化完全,分散均匀。
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