WO2015144329A1 - Wirkstoffkombinationen aus ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat und 4-hydroxyacetophenon sowie kosmetische oder dermatologische zubereitungen, diese wirkstoffkombinationen enthaltend - Google Patents

Wirkstoffkombinationen aus ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat und 4-hydroxyacetophenon sowie kosmetische oder dermatologische zubereitungen, diese wirkstoffkombinationen enthaltend Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015144329A1
WO2015144329A1 PCT/EP2015/051547 EP2015051547W WO2015144329A1 WO 2015144329 A1 WO2015144329 A1 WO 2015144329A1 EP 2015051547 W EP2015051547 W EP 2015051547W WO 2015144329 A1 WO2015144329 A1 WO 2015144329A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
skin
cosmetic
active
ingredient combinations
hydroxyacetophenone
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2015/051547
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Julia Pruns
Bente Nissen
Thomas Raschke
Magdalena VON WEDEL-PARLOW
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf Ag filed Critical Beiersdorf Ag
Publication of WO2015144329A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015144329A1/de

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to active ingredient combinations of ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-acrylate and 4-hydroxyacetophenone and cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing these drug combinations.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredients for the care and protection of the skin, in particular the sensitive skin as well as especially in the foreground standing by intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors aged or aging skin and the use of such agents and combinations of such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.
  • Cosmetic skincare is primarily understood as strengthening or restoring the skin's natural function as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g., dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (e.g., water, natural fats, electrolytes).
  • environmental influences e.g., dirt, chemicals, microorganisms
  • endogenous substances e.g., water, natural fats, electrolytes
  • barrier damage is a priori.
  • Epidermal intercellular lipids are defective or inadequate or formed. The consequence is an increased permeability of the horny layer and insufficient protection of the skin from loss of hygroscopic substances and water.
  • the barrier effect of the skin can be quantified by determining transepidermal water loss (TEWL). It is the evaporation of water from the inside of the body without the inclusion of water loss during sweating.
  • the determination of the TEWL value has proved extremely informative and can be used for the diagnosis of chapped or chapped skin, for the determination of the compatibility of chemically different surfactants and the like.
  • the water content in the uppermost layer of skin is of utmost importance. It can be favorably influenced to a limited extent by introducing moisture regulators.
  • Anionic surfactants which are generally components of cleansing formulations, can increase the pH in the horny layer for a long time, severely hampering regenerative processes that serve to restore and renew the barrier function of the skin. In this case, in the horny layer between regeneration and the loss of essential substances by regular extraction, a new, often very unfavorable equilibrium state, which significantly affects the appearance of the skin and the physiological functioning of the horny layer.
  • the lipid composition and amount of the horny layer of the pathologically altered, dry and dry but non-diseased skin of younger and older people deviates from the normal state found in the healthy, normally hydrated skin of an equal age group.
  • the changes in the lipid pattern of the very dry, non-eczematous skin of patients with atopic eczema represent an extreme case for the deviations that are found in the dry skin of healthy people.
  • the effect of ointments and creams on barrier function and hydration of the horny layer is usually not in restoring or strengthening the physico-chemical properties of the lamellae from intercellular lipids.
  • a significant partial effect is based on the mere coverage of the treated skin areas and the resulting water retention in the underlying horny layer.
  • Co-applied hygroscopic substances bind the water, resulting in a measurable increase in the water content in the horny layer.
  • this purely physical barrier can be removed relatively easily.
  • the skin care effect may be reduced with regular treatment, so that the status quo is finally reached even during the treatment.
  • the condition of the skin may temporarily worsen after weaning.
  • a sustainable product effect is usually not achieved or only to a limited extent.
  • the aim of the present invention was therefore to find ways to avoid the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • the effect of the skin care products should be physiological, fast and sustained.
  • Skincare in the sense of the present invention is primarily to be understood as meaning the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (eg water, lipids , Electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.
  • the effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and the hydration of the horny layer is based essentially on the coverage (occlusion) of the treated skin areas.
  • the ointment or cream is, so to speak, a (second) artificial barrier that is supposed to prevent the loss of water from the skin. Accordingly, this physical barrier - for example, with cleaning agents - can be removed again, whereby the original, impaired state is reached again.
  • the skin care effect may decrease with regular treatment. After discontinuation of the product application, the skin returns to its pre-treatment state very quickly. For certain products, the condition of the skin may even temporarily deteriorate. A sustainable product effect is usually not achieved or only to a limited extent.
  • the effect of nourishing cleansing products consists essentially in an efficient refatting with sebum lipid-like substances.
  • the damage to the horny layer barrier can be further limited.
  • Antioxidants preferably those which are used in skin-care cosmetic or dermatological preparations.
  • the invention also relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing such antioxidants.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological Preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of skin aging, in particular the skin aging caused by oxidative processes.
  • Antioxidants are substances which prevent oxidation processes or which prevent the autoxidation of unsaturated compounds containing fats.
  • Antioxidants which are also used in the field of cosmetics and pharmacy are, for example, ⁇ -tocopherol, sesamol, bile acid derivatives, butylhydroxyanisole and butylhydroxytoluene.
  • Mainly antioxidants are used as protective substances against spoilage of preparations containing them. Nevertheless, it is known that undesirable oxidation processes can also occur in human and animal skin. Such processes play an essential role in skin aging.
  • UV radiation for example, can lead to photo-oxidative reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products intervene in the skin metabolism.
  • such photochemical reaction products are free-radical compounds, e.g. Hydroxy radicals, hydroperoxy radicals and superoxide ions.
  • Undefined radical photoproducts which are formed in the skin itself, can also show uncontrolled sequelae due to their high reactivity.
  • singlet oxygen a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule, can also occur on UV irradiation, as do short-lived epoxides and many others.
  • Singlet oxygen for example, is distinguished from the normally present triplet oxygen (radical ground state) by increased reactivity. However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.
  • antioxidants and / or radical scavengers may additionally be incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological formulations.
  • other environmental pollutants such as ozone, cigar smoke, oxidizing chemicals, metal ions (iron, nickel, copper, etc.) also induce oxidative stress in the skin of sulfur and nitrogen oxides, thus promoting premature skin aging.
  • the object of the present invention was to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • a well-known and highly effective antioxidant is 4-hydroxyacetophenone, which is sold by Symrise under the trade name "SymSave® H.” It has the CAS No. 99-93-4 and is characterized by the following chemical structure:
  • a disadvantage of this substance is that its solubility in cosmetic solvents such as oils or lipids is only moderate, which limits their use in - mostly oily - cosmetic or dermatological preparations.
  • Ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate is also called octocrylene and is a UV-B filter substance, which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul® N 539 T and is characterized by the following structure:
  • Octocrylene absorbs light mainly in the UV-B and little in the short-wave UV-A range. The filter effect is not very strong. Octocrylene is usually used in combination with other filter substances, while at the same time increasing the photostability of certain UV-A filters and stabilizing their protective effect as a result.
  • the solubility was measured 12 to 24 hours after the last addition of the substance so that the system could equilibrate.
  • Octocrylene surprisingly dissolves 4-hydroxyacetophenone significantly better than the known cosmetic oils dicaprylyl ether and alkyl benzoates.
  • weight ratios of octocrylene to 4-hydroxyacetophenone are selected from the range of 100 to 1 to 1 to 20, preferably from 50 to 1 to 1 to 10, particularly preferably from 20 to 1 to 1 to 5.
  • Preferred use concentrations of 4-hydroxyacetophenone in cosmetic or dermatological preparations are selected from the range of 0.001% to 3%, preferably from 0.01 to 2%, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 1%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the active compound combinations used according to the invention can be readily incorporated into common cosmetic or dermatological formulations, advantageously in pump sprays, aerosol sprays, creams, ointments, tinctures, lotions, nail care products (for example nail varnishes, nail polish removers, nail balms) and the like.
  • a pH range of 3.5 to 7.5 is advantageous. It is particularly favorable to choose the pH in a range of 4.0-6.5.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention may be composed as usual and used for the treatment of the skin and / or the hair in the sense of a dermatological treatment or a treatment in the sense of nourishing cosmetics. But they can also be used in make-up products in decorative cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics and dermatological agents.
  • cosmetic and dermatological preparations that are in the form of a sunscreen.
  • these additionally contain at least one UVA filter and / or at least one UVB filter and / or at least one inorganic pigment.
  • Cosmetic preparations according to the invention for protecting the skin from UV rays may be in various forms, such as e.g. Usually used for this type of preparations. So they can e.g. a solution, a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) type emulsion, or a multiple emulsions, such as water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W), a gel, a hydrodispersion, a solid stick or even an aerosol.
  • W / O water-in-oil
  • O / W oil-in-water
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic adjuvants such as are commonly used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, antioxidants, perfumes, antifoaming agents, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, emollients, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic adjuvants such as are commonly used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, antioxidants, perfumes, antifoaming agents, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, emollients, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients
  • Emulsions are advantageous according to the invention and contain e.g. the said fats, oils, waxes and other fatty substances, as well as water and an emulsifier, as commonly used for such a type of formulation.
  • Gels according to the invention usually contain lower C-number alcohols, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an abovementioned oil in the presence of a thickener, which in the case of oily-alcoholic gels is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels, preferably a polyacrylate.
  • Solid sticks according to the invention contain, for example, natural or synthetic waxes, fatty alcohols or fatty acid esters. Preference is given to lip balms and deodorant sticks ("deodorant sticks").
  • Suitable propellants for cosmetic or dermatological preparations which can be sprayed from aerosol containers according to the invention are the customary known highly volatile, liquefied propellants, e.g. Hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane) suitable, which can be used alone or in combination with each other. Also, compressed air is advantageous to use.
  • Hydrocarbons propane, butane, isobutane
  • the preparations according to the invention may additionally contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances being e.g. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation to provide cosmetic preparations, which protect the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.
  • the total amount of filter substances being e.g. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation to provide cosmetic preparations, which protect the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.
  • Cosmetic preparations for the care of the hair are, for example, shampooing agents, preparations which are used to rinse the hair before or after shampooing, before or after the permanent wave treatment, before or after dyeing or discoloring the hair, to make-up preparations or Inserting the hair, preparations for dyeing or decolorizing, a hairdressing and treatment lotion, a hair lacquer or permanent waving agent.
  • the cosmetic preparations contain active ingredients and adjuvants such as are commonly used for this type of preparations for hair care and hair treatment.
  • auxiliaries are preservatives, surface-active substances, substances for preventing foaming, emulsifiers, thickeners, fats, oils, waxes, organic solvents, bactericides, perfumes, dyes or pigments, whose job is to dye the hair or the preparation itself, electrolytes , Preparations against the greasing of the hair.
  • Cosmetic preparations which are a shampoo or a washing, shower or bath preparation preferably comprise at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactant or mixtures thereof.
  • anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactant or mixtures thereof preferably comprise at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactant or mixtures thereof.
PCT/EP2015/051547 2014-03-26 2015-01-27 Wirkstoffkombinationen aus ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat und 4-hydroxyacetophenon sowie kosmetische oder dermatologische zubereitungen, diese wirkstoffkombinationen enthaltend WO2015144329A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102014104257.3 2014-03-26
DE102014104257.3A DE102014104257A1 (de) 2014-03-26 2014-03-26 Wirkstoffkombinationen aus Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat und 4-Hydroxyacetophenon sowie kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, diese Wirkstoffkombinationen enthaltend

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3160434A1 (en) * 2014-06-30 2017-05-03 Symrise AG Flavour and fragrance compositions comprising acetophenone derivatives
CN112702914A (zh) * 2018-08-27 2021-04-23 德国德之馨香精香料公司 含有至少一种羟基苯乙酮衍生物的抗微生物混合物
WO2022122167A1 (en) * 2020-12-11 2022-06-16 Symrise Ag Medicament for preventing or treating pathologic conditions of human skin (i)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112118825B (zh) * 2018-05-18 2023-03-31 帝斯曼知识产权资产管理有限公司 局部组合物

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EP2774604A1 (en) * 2013-03-08 2014-09-10 Symrise AG Cosmetic compositions
EP2774481A1 (en) * 2013-03-08 2014-09-10 Symrise AG Antimicrobial compositions

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JPH07206645A (ja) * 1994-01-11 1995-08-08 Pola Chem Ind Inc 育毛剤及びこれを含有する頭髪用の化粧料
US20060110415A1 (en) * 2004-11-22 2006-05-25 Bioderm Research Topical Delivery System for Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Agents
US20130164229A1 (en) * 2011-12-22 2013-06-27 Mary Kay Inc. Lip formulation
KR20130134976A (ko) * 2012-05-31 2013-12-10 주식회사 코스메카코리아 백미 추출물을 함유하는 피부 미백 화장료 조성물
EP2774604A1 (en) * 2013-03-08 2014-09-10 Symrise AG Cosmetic compositions
EP2774481A1 (en) * 2013-03-08 2014-09-10 Symrise AG Antimicrobial compositions

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RAJABI L ET AL: "Acetophenones with selective antimycobacterial activity", vol. 40, no. 3, 1 March 2005 (2005-03-01), pages 212 - 217, XP002693043, ISSN: 1472-765X, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1472-765X.2005.01657.x/full> [retrieved on 20130218], DOI: 10.1111/J.1472-765X.2005.01657.X *
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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3160434A1 (en) * 2014-06-30 2017-05-03 Symrise AG Flavour and fragrance compositions comprising acetophenone derivatives
CN112702914A (zh) * 2018-08-27 2021-04-23 德国德之馨香精香料公司 含有至少一种羟基苯乙酮衍生物的抗微生物混合物
CN112702914B (zh) * 2018-08-27 2024-01-30 西姆莱斯股份公司 含有至少一种羟基苯乙酮衍生物的抗微生物混合物
WO2022122167A1 (en) * 2020-12-11 2022-06-16 Symrise Ag Medicament for preventing or treating pathologic conditions of human skin (i)

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