WO2013046770A1 - 水中油型乳化化粧料 - Google Patents
水中油型乳化化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2013046770A1 WO2013046770A1 PCT/JP2012/059166 JP2012059166W WO2013046770A1 WO 2013046770 A1 WO2013046770 A1 WO 2013046770A1 JP 2012059166 W JP2012059166 W JP 2012059166W WO 2013046770 A1 WO2013046770 A1 WO 2013046770A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8111—Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
Definitions
- the present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic, and particularly relates to an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic that is excellent in the feel of elasticity and has excellent softness and moisturizing effect.
- the present invention has been made in view of the above-described problems of the prior art, and an object thereof is to provide an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic that is excellent in feel of elasticity, softness and moisturizing effect.
- the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic according to the present invention includes the following components (A) to (F), and the blending amount of the nonpolar oil is 30% or less of the total amount of the component (C). .
- A Hydrogenated polyisobutene having a number average molecular weight of 2000 to 3000 0.1 to 5% by mass
- B Higher alcohol 0.1 to less than 1% by mass
- C Oil component 1 to 25% by mass
- D Surfactant 0.3-5% by mass
- E Water-soluble thickener 0.05 to 5% by mass
- the viscosity at 25 ° C. is preferably 50000 mPa ⁇ s or less.
- the component (C) preferably contains an oil-soluble drug.
- An oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic according to the present invention is a cosmetic comprising an oily component containing hydrogenated polyisobutene and a small amount of a higher alcohol, a surfactant, and an aqueous component containing a water-soluble thickener. It is possible to provide an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic that is excellent in feeling, softness, and moisturizing effect.
- the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic according to the present invention comprises (A) hydrogenated polyisobutene, (B) higher alcohol, (C) oil component, (D) surfactant, (E) water-soluble thickener, (F) It is composed of an aqueous component.
- A hydrogenated polyisobutene
- B higher alcohol
- C oil component
- D surfactant
- E water-soluble thickener
- F It is composed of an aqueous component.
- Hydrogenated polyisobutene is a hydrocarbon mixture obtained by copolymerizing isobutene and n-butene followed by hydrogenation.
- hydrogenated polyisobutene used in the present invention those generally used in cosmetics can be used.
- the hydrogenated polyisobutene needs to have a number average molecular weight of 2000 to 3000. If the number average molecular weight is too small, the feeling of stickiness may not be sufficient. Further, if the number average molecular weight is too large, the feeling of use may be affected, for example, the spread becomes heavy.
- the blending amount of (A) hydrogenated polyisobutene needs to be 0.1 to 5% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic.
- the compounding quantity of (A) component is 0.5 mass% or more. When the amount is less than 0.1% by mass, a sufficient feeling of the beam cannot be obtained.
- the compounding quantity of (A) component is 3 mass% or less. When it exceeds 5 mass%, it is inferior to softness and non-stickiness.
- the (B) higher alcohol blended in the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is an alcohol having 6 or more carbon atoms.
- the higher alcohol include behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, and the like.
- the blending amount of (B) higher alcohol needs to be 0.1 to less than 1% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic.
- the compounding quantity of (B) component is 0.3 mass% or more. If it is less than 0.1% by mass, the softness and moisturizing effect cannot be obtained.
- the compounding quantity of (B) component is 0.8 mass% or less. When the amount is 1% by mass or more, the feeling of elasticity tends not to be obtained.
- oil component is an oil component other than the component (A) and the component (B) that can be usually used in cosmetics.
- oil component (C) include liquid oils such as silicone oil, polar oil, and nonpolar oil, solid oil, semi-solid oil, and oil-soluble ultraviolet absorber.
- silicone oil examples include chain silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and cyclic silicone oils such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane. Can be mentioned.
- chain silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane
- cyclic silicone oils such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
- polar oils examples include glyceryl diisostearate, diisostearyl malate, tripropylene glycol pivalate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl octoate, hexyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, octyl palmitate, and isocetyl stearate.
- ester oils such as isopropyl isostearate, octyl isopalmitate, isodecyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, and the like.
- nonpolar oil examples include hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin, squalane, squalene, paraffin, and isohexadecane.
- Solid oils include, for example, cocoa butter, coconut oil, horse oil, hardened coconut oil, palm oil, beef tallow, sheep fat, hardened castor oil, and the like, paraffin wax (linear hydrocarbon), microcrystalline wax (branched) Saturated hydrocarbons), hydrocarbons such as ceresin wax, molefish, Fischer-Trops wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax (rice wax), gay wax, jojoba oil, nukarou, montan wax, kapok wax, bayberry wax, shellac wax Sugarcane wax, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, hexyl laurate, reduced lanolin, hard lanolin, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol ether, lanolin fatty acid polyethylene glycol Waxes such as POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, higher fatty acids such as Nin
- semi-solid oil examples include vegetable oils such as petrolatum, lanolin, shea fat, partially hydrogenated coconut oil, partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, bisdiglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2, tetra (behenic acid / benzoic acid / ethyl hexane). Acid) pentaerythrityl, macadamia nut oil polyglyceryl-6-esters behenate, dimer linoleic acid (phytosteryl / behenyl), dipentaerythritol hexaoxystearate and the like.
- vegetable oils such as petrolatum, lanolin, shea fat, partially hydrogenated coconut oil, partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, bisdiglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2, tetra (behenic acid / benzoic acid / ethyl hexane). Acid) pentaerythrityl, macadamia nut oil polyglyceryl-6-
- oil-soluble ultraviolet absorber examples include cinnamic acid-based ultraviolet absorbers such as octyl paramethoxycinnamate, isopropyl paramethoxycinnamate, glyceryl di-2-methoxycinnamate mono-2-ethylhexanoate, and paraaminobenzoic acid.
- cinnamic acid-based ultraviolet absorbers such as octyl paramethoxycinnamate, isopropyl paramethoxycinnamate, glyceryl di-2-methoxycinnamate mono-2-ethylhexanoate, and paraaminobenzoic acid.
- Benzoic acid UV absorbers such as acids, anthranilic acid UV absorbers such as methyl anthranilate, salicylic acid UV absorbers such as octyl salicylate and phenyl salicylate, 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxybenzoylmethane, 2- Examples include ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate.
- oil-soluble drugs include oil-soluble vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin D, vitamin E, vitamin K and derivatives thereof (vitamin A oil, retinol palmitate, etc.), water-soluble substances such as vitamin C and arbutin. Oil-soluble derivatives (such as vitamin C palmitate), oil-soluble plant extracts, oil-soluble fragrances, substances whose surfaces have been hydrophobized, cyclosporine, and the like.
- the blending amount of the oil component (C) needs to be 1 to 25% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic.
- the blending amount of the component (C) is less than 1% by mass, the moisturizing feeling and softness are inferior and stickiness occurs. Moreover, when it exceeds 25 mass%, it will become oily.
- the compounding quantity of a nonpolar oil component needs to be 30% or less with respect to (C) component whole quantity, and it is preferable that it is 20% or less.
- the blending amount of the nonpolar oil in the component (C) exceeds 30% with respect to the total amount of the component (C)
- the feeling of stickiness and stickiness may be inferior.
- blending of oils with high polarity (IOB) is preferred in terms of effect.
- IOB blending an oil component having an IOB value of 0.3 or more, a very excellent feeling of a beam can be obtained.
- (D) Surfactant) (D) What can be normally used for cosmetics can be used for surfactant.
- a surfactant having an HLB of 5 or more If the HLB is less than 5, the lipophilicity is high and it may be difficult to obtain a stable oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic.
- surfactants examples include nonionic surfactants and anionic surfactants.
- nonionic surfactant examples include polyoxyethylene fatty acid ether, polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene alkylphenyl ether, and polyoxyethylene cholesteryl ether.
- esters examples include esters.
- anionic surfactant examples include fatty acid soap, N-acyl glutamate, acyl taurine salt, acyl alkyl taurine salt, higher alkyl sulfate ester salt, alkyl ether sulfate ester salt, N-acyl sarcosine salt, higher fatty acid amide.
- anionic surfactant examples include sulfonates, phosphate esters, sulfosuccinates, and alkylbenzene sulfonates.
- the blending amount of the (D) surfactant in the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention needs to be 0.3 to 5% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic.
- the blending amount of the component (D) is less than 0.3% by mass, the stability is poor. Moreover, when it exceeds 5 mass%, it is inferior to a usability
- the (E) water-soluble thickener blended in the present invention is a water-soluble thickener that can be usually used in cosmetics.
- water-soluble thickener examples include plant polymers such as gum arabic, tragacanth, galactan, carob gum, guar gum, caraya gum, carrageenan, xanthan gum, pectin, agar, quince seed (malmello), and alge colloid (brown algae extract), Microbial polymers such as dextran, succinoglucan, pullulan, animal polymers such as collagen, casein, albumin, gelatin, starch (rice, corn, potato, wheat), starch such as carboxymethyl starch, methylhydroxypropyl starch Based polymers and the like.
- plant polymers such as gum arabic, tragacanth, galactan, carob gum, guar gum, caraya gum, carrageenan, xanthan gum, pectin, agar, quince seed (malmello), and alge colloid (brown algae extract)
- Microbial polymers such as dextran, succinoglucan, pullulan
- animal polymers such as collagen,
- Cellulose polymers such as methylcellulose, nitrocellulose, ethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, hydroxypropylcellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powder, sodium alginate, propylene glycol alginate, etc. And alginic acid polymers.
- vinyl polymers such as polyvinyl methyl ether and carboxyvinyl polymer, polyoxyethylene polymers, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene copolymer polymers, acrylic polymers such as polyethyl acrylate and polyacrylamide, polyethyleneimine Inorganic water-soluble polymers such as cationic polymer, bentonite, magnesium aluminum silicate, laponite, hectorite, silicic anhydride, PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer (dimethylacrylamide / (Acryloyl dimethyl taurine Na) crosspolymer, (Na acrylate / acryloyl dimethyl taurine) copolymer, (alkyl acrylate / steareth methacrylate-20) copolymer, (acrylic) Yl dimethyl taurine ammonium / VP) copolymer, and the like.
- the amount of the (E) water-soluble thickener needs to be 0.05 to 5% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic.
- the amount of component (E) is less than 0.05% by mass, the stability is poor.
- the aqueous component is an aqueous component other than the component (E) that can be normally used in cosmetics.
- examples of such an aqueous component (F) include humectants, sequestering agents, antioxidants, water-soluble ultraviolet absorbers, and water-soluble drugs.
- humectant examples include 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, xylitol, maltitol, maltose, D-mannitol and the like.
- sequestering agent examples include sodium edetate, sodium metaphosphate, phosphoric acid and the like.
- antioxidant examples include ascorbic acid, dibutylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole and the like.
- water-soluble ultraviolet absorber examples include benzophenone-based ultraviolet absorbers such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, urocanic acid, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and the like.
- water-soluble drug examples include inosit, pyridoxine hydrochloride, benzyl nicotinate, nicotinamide, dl- ⁇ -tocopherol nicotinate, magnesium ascorbate phosphate, 2-glucoside ascorbate, 2-dl ascorbyl dl- ⁇ -tocopherol Acid phosphate diester potassium salts, vitamins such as pantothenic acid and biotin, anti-inflammatory agents such as allantoin and azulene, whitening agents such as arbutin, 4-methoxysalicylic acid or its salts, tranexamic acid or its derivatives, astringents such as tannic acid Agents, lysozyme chloride, pyridoxine hydrochloride, marine collagen and the like.
- those capable of salt formation can be used in the form of an acid or base salt, and those having a carboxylic acid group can be used in the form of its este
- the blending amount of the (F) aqueous component in the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 59 to 96% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic.
- blend powder components such as fine particle titanium oxide and fine particle zinc oxide, as the other component in the range which does not impair the effect of this invention.
- the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention preferably has a viscosity of 50000 mPa ⁇ s or less.
- the viscosity is a value measured with a viscometer at room temperature (25 ° C.). If the viscosity is too high, the feeling of use may be inferior.
- the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic according to the present invention can be widely applied to cosmetics that are conventionally applied to the outer skin.
- cosmetics that are conventionally applied to the outer skin.
- milky lotion, gel, serum, cream, makeup base, foundation, eyeliner, mascara and the like can be mentioned.
- the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
- the blending amount is expressed in mass% with respect to the system in which the component is blended. Prior to the description of the examples, the evaluation method of the test used in the present invention will be described.
- Evaluation (1) Stability The stability was evaluated by comparing the hardness and appearance of the samples stored at 25 ° C. and 40 ° C. for 1 month with those immediately after preparation.
- a * Under any storage conditions, the decrease in hardness was 10% or less, and no change in appearance was observed.
- B * No change in appearance was observed under any storage conditions, but a hardness change of 10% or more was observed.
- B Some separation of water or oil was observed in appearance.
- C Separation of water or oil was observed in appearance within 1 month.
- Evaluation (2) Feeling feeling Ten professional panels applied a sample to the face, and evaluated the feeling after use. A * : 9 or more panelists answered that they had a feeling of elasticity. A: A panel of 7 or more and less than 9 responded that there was a feeling of elasticity. B: A panel of 5 or more and less than 7 responded that there was a feeling of elasticity. C: The panel of less than 5 responded that there was a feeling of elasticity.
- Evaluation (3) No stickiness Ten professional panels applied samples to their faces and evaluated the feeling after use. A * : 9 or more panelists answered that there was no stickiness. A: A panel of 7 or more and less than 9 responded that there was no stickiness. B: The panel of 5 or more and less than 7 responded that there was no stickiness. C: The panel of less than 5 responded that there was no stickiness.
- Evaluation (4) Softness Ten professional panelists applied samples to their faces and evaluated the feeling after use. A * : Nine or more panelists answered that their skin was soft. A: A panel of 7 or more and less than 9 responded that the skin was soft. B: The panel of 5 or more and less than 7 responded that the skin was soft. C: A panel of less than 5 responded that the skin was soft.
- a * 9 or more panelists answered that they had a moisturizing effect.
- the present inventors have found that, in water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetics, blending of hydrogenated polyisobutene is effective as a component having high stickiness to the skin and feeling of elasticity. Then, the compounding of hydrogenated polyisobutene to the oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetic was examined.
- the inventors of the present invention manufactured oil-in-water emulsified cosmetics (creams) by a conventional method with the composition shown in Table 1 below. Each sample was evaluated for the evaluation items (1) to (5) according to the above scoring criteria. The results are shown in Table 1.
- Test Examples 1-2 and 1-3 in which hydrogenated polyisobutene was blended with Test Example 1-1, which is an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic, the feeling of elasticity and the moisturizing effect were slightly improved. However, it was found that the feeling of the beam was not satisfactory enough.
- the inventors of the present invention manufactured oil-in-water emulsified cosmetics (creams) having the blending composition shown in Table 2 below, in which hydrogenated polyisobutene was blended and the amount of higher alcohol used in combination was changed. .
- Each sample was evaluated for the evaluation items (1) to (5) according to the above scoring criteria. The results are shown in Table 2.
- the inventors of the present invention produced an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic (cream) having the blending composition shown in Table 3 below, in which the blending amount of hydrogenated polyisobutene was changed, by a conventional method. Each sample was evaluated for the evaluation items (1) to (5) according to the above scoring criteria. The results are shown in Table 3.
- the inventors of the present invention produced oil-in-water emulsified cosmetics (creams) having the composition shown in Table 4 below by a conventional method. Each sample was evaluated for the evaluation items (1) to (5) according to the above scoring criteria. The results are shown in Table 4.
- the inventors of the present invention manufactured the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic (cream) of Test Example 5-1 below by a conventional method. Each sample was evaluated for the evaluation items (1) to (5) according to the above scoring criteria. The results are shown in Table 5.
- Test Example 5-1 as a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic was inferior in feel and softness. Therefore, the emulsified cosmetic composition of the present invention needs to be an oil-in-water type emulsion system.
- the following is a formulation example of the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention.
- the present invention is not limited by this formulation example.
- Latex (mass%) (1) Water residue (2) Glycerin 8 (3) Dipropylene glycol 3 (4) Xanthan gum 0.2 (5) Behenyl alcohol 0.2 (6) Stearyl alcohol 0.16 (7) Glycerol monoisostearate 0.8 (8) POE glycerin monoisostearate 1.2 (9) Squalane 3 (10) Methylphenylpolysiloxane 6 (11) Glyceryl diisostearate 3 (12) Hydrogenated polyisobutene 1.5 Nonpolar oil content / (C) component amount: 25.0% Viscosity (Bismetron viscometer, VDA type, 12 rpm, rotor No.
- (5) to (12) are heated and mixed to uniformly disperse the oil phase.
- (1) to (4) are heated and mixed to prepare an aqueous phase.
- the heated oil phase was added to the aqueous phase, the emulsified particles were prepared with a homogenizer, and cooled with stirring to produce the desired emulsion.
- the obtained emulsion had good stability and had a feeling of use excellent in both a feeling of elasticity and a soft skin.
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Abstract
Description
従来、はり感を付与する物質としては、高分子等が用いられている。例えば、ステアリン酸ステアリルと、水添ポリイソブテン等の炭化水素を併用することにより、はり感を有する乳化化粧料が知られている(特許文献1)。しかし、保湿効果や他の使用感を出すために配合される保湿剤や油分により、はり感が弱まってしまう場合があった。
水添ポリイソブテンおよび特定量の高級アルコールを配合した皮膚化粧料が知られている(特許文献2)。また、ポリブテン等の高粘稠性油剤を配合した水中油型乳化化粧料が知られている(特許文献3)。しかし、これらの化粧料は、はり感に満足できるものではなかった。
(A)数平均分子量が2000~3000である水添ポリイソブテン 0.1~5質量%
(B)高級アルコール 0.1~1質量%未満
(C)油性成分 1~25質量%
(D)界面活性剤 0.3~5質量%
(E)水溶性増粘剤 0.05~5質量%
(F)水性成分
前記水中油型乳化化粧料において、(C)成分中に油溶性薬剤を含むことが好適である。
以下、各成分について詳述する。
(A)水添ポリイソブテンは、イソブテンとn-ブテンとを共重合した後に水素添加して得られる炭化水素混合物である。本発明に用いられる水添ポリイソブテンは、化粧料に一般に用いられているものを使用することができる。
本発明の水中油型乳化化粧料に配合される(B)高級アルコールは、炭素数6以上のアルコールである。
高級アルコールとしては、例えば、ベヘニルアルコール、ステアリルアルコール、セチルアルコール、ミリスチルアルコール、セトステアリルアルコール等が挙げられる。
(C)油性成分は、化粧料に通常使用可能な(A)成分および(B)成分以外の油性成分である。
このような(C)油性成分としては、例えば、シリコーン油分、極性油分、非極性油分等の液状油分、固形油分、半固形油分、油溶性紫外線吸収剤等が挙げられる。
極性油分としては、例えば、ジイソステアリン酸グリセリル、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、ピバリン酸トリプロピレングリコール、トリ2-エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル、オクタン酸セチル、ラウリン酸ヘキシル、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、パルミチン酸オクチル、ステアリン酸イソセチル、イソステアリン酸イソプロピル、イソパルミチン酸オクチル、イソステアリン酸イソデシル、コハク酸2-エチルヘキシル、セバシン酸ジエチル、エチルヘキサン酸セチルなどのエステル油等が挙げられる。
非極性油分としては、例えば、流動パラフィン、スクワラン、スクワレン、パラフィン、イソヘキサデカン等の炭化水素油等が挙げられる。
油溶性薬剤としては、例えば、ビタミンA(レチノール)、ビタミンD、ビタミンE、ビタミンKおよびそれらの誘導体等の油溶性ビタミン類(ビタミンA油、パルミチン酸レチノール等)、ビタミンCやアルブチン等の水溶性薬剤の油溶性誘導体(ビタミンCパルミテート等)、油溶性植物抽出物、油溶性香料、表面を疎水化処理した物質、シクロスポリン等が挙げられる。
一方、極性油分については、極性(IOB)の高い油分の配合がより効果の点で好ましい。特に、IOB値が0.3以上の油分を配合することで、非常に優れたはり感を得ることができる。
(D)界面活性剤は、化粧料に通常使用可能なものを用いることができる。
界面活性剤としては、特に、HLBが5以上のものを用いることが好ましい。HLBが5未満のものでは親油性が高く、安定な水中油型乳化化粧料を得るのが難しい場合がある。
なお、上記HLBの値は、HLB=7+11.7・log(MW/MO)(ただし、MWは親水基部の分子量を表し、MOは親油基部の分子量を表す)で表される川上式により算出することができる。
本発明に配合される(E)水溶性増粘剤は、化粧料に通常使用可能な水溶性増粘剤である。
また、メチルセルロース、ニトロセルロース、エチルセルロース、メチルヒドロキシプロピルセルロース、ヒドロキシエチルセルロース、セルロース硫酸ナトリウム、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロース、カルボキシメチルセルロースナトリウム、結晶セルロース、セルロース末などのセルロース系高分子等、アルギン酸ナトリウム、アルギン酸プロピレングリコールエステルなどのアルギン酸系高分子等が挙げられる。
さらに、ポリビニルメチルエーテル、カルボキシビニルポリマーなどのビニル系高分子、ポリオキシエチレン系高分子、ポリオキシエチレンポリオキシプロピレン共重合体系高分子、ポリエチルアクリレート、ポリアクリルアミドなどのアクリル系高分子、ポリエチレンイミン、カチオンポリマー、ベントナイト、ケイ酸アルミニウムマグネシウム、ラポナイト、ヘクトライト、無水ケイ酸などの無機系水溶性高分子、PEG-240/デシルテトラデセス-20/ヘキサメチレンジイソシアネート共重合体、(ジメチルアクリルアミド/アクリロイルジメチルタウリンNa)クロスポリマー、(アクリル酸Na/アクリロイルジメチルタウリン)コポリマー、(アクリル酸アルキル/メタクリル酸ステアレス-20)コポリマー、(アクリロイルジメチルタウリンアンモニウム/VP)コポリマー等が挙げられる。
(F)水性成分は、化粧料に通常使用可能な(E)成分以外の水性成分である。
このような(F)水性成分としては、例えば、保湿剤、金属イオン封鎖剤、酸化防止剤、水溶性紫外線吸収剤、水溶性薬剤等が挙げられる。
金属イオン封鎖剤としては、エデト酸ナトリウム塩、メタリン酸ナトリウム、リン酸等が挙げられる。
水溶性紫外線吸収剤としては、例えば、2-ヒドロキシ-4-メトキシベンゾフェノン-5-スルホン酸等のベンゾフェノン系紫外線吸収剤、ウロカニン酸、フェニルベンズイミダゾールスルホン酸等が挙げられる。
また、上記薬剤は遊離の状態で使用されるほか、造塩可能なものは酸または塩基の塩の型で、またカルボン酸基を有するものはそのエステルの形で使用することができる。
なお、その他成分として、本発明の効果を損なわない範囲で微粒子酸化チタン、微粒子酸化亜鉛等の粉末成分を配合してもよい。
実施例の説明に先立ち本発明で用いた試験の評価方法について説明する。
25℃および40℃で1ヶ月保存した試料の硬度および外観を、調製直後と比較し安定性を評価した。
A*:どの保存条件でも、硬度の低下が10%以下であり、外観の変化は認められなかった。
A:どの保存条件でも、外観の変化は認められなかったが、40℃で保存したもののみ10%以上の硬度変化が認められた。
B*:どの保存条件でも、外観の変化は認められなかったが、10%以上の硬度変化が認められた。
B:外観において、水または油の分離が若干認められた。
C:1ヶ月以内に、外観において水または油の分離が認められた。
専門パネル10名が顔に試料を塗布し、塗布後の使用感を評価した。
A*:9名以上のパネルがはり感があると回答した。
A:7名以上9名未満のパネルがはり感があると回答した。
B:5名以上7名未満のパネルがはり感があると回答した。
C:5名未満のパネルがはり感があると回答した。
専門パネル10名が顔に試料を塗布し、塗布後の使用感を評価した。
A*:9名以上のパネルがべたつきがないと回答した。
A:7名以上9名未満のパネルがべたつきがないと回答した。
B:5名以上7名未満のパネルがべたつきがないと回答した。
C:5名未満のパネルがべたつきがないと回答した。
専門パネル10名が顔に試料を塗布し、塗布後の使用感を評価した。
A*:9名以上のパネルが肌がやわらかいと回答した。
A:7名以上9名未満のパネルが肌がやわらかいと回答した。
B:5名以上7名未満のパネルが肌がやわらかいと回答した。
C:5名未満のパネルが肌がやわらかいと回答した。
専門パネル10名が顔に試料を塗布し、塗布後の使用感を評価した。
A*:9名以上のパネルが保湿効果があると回答した。
A:7名以上9名未満のパネルが保湿効果があると回答した。
B:5名以上7名未満のパネルが保湿効果があると回答した。
C:5名未満のパネルが保湿効果があると回答した。
そこで、水添ポリイソブテンの、水中油型乳化化粧料への配合について検討を行った。本発明者らは下記表1に示す配合組成で、常法により水中油型乳化化粧料(クリーム)を製造した。そして、各試料を評価項目(1)~(5)について上記採点基準にて評価した。結果を表1に示す。
しかし、高級アルコールが配合されていない試験例2-2は、やわらかさに劣り、保湿効果にも改善の余地があった。
また、高級アルコールの配合量を多くすると、はり感に影響が出ることがわかった。
したがって、本発明にかかる(A)水添ポリイソブテンを含む水中油型乳化化粧料において、(B)高級アルコールを0.1~1質量%未満含むことが必要である。
したがって、本発明の水中油型乳化化粧料における(A)水添ポリイソブテンの配合量は、0.1~5質量%であることが必要である。
したがって、本発明の水中油型乳化化粧料において、非極性油分が(C)成分全量中30%以下であることが必要である。
また、試験例2-4と試験例4-5を比較すると、IOBの高い極性油分の一部をIOBの低い極性油分に置換すると、はり感が若干抑制されることが分かった。したがって、極性(IOB)の高い極性油分の配合がより効果の点で好ましい。
したがって、本発明の組成の乳化化粧料は、水中油型乳化系であることが必要である。
(質量%)
(1)水 残余
(2)グリセリン 8
(3)ジプロピレングリコール 3
(4)キサンタンガム 0.2
(5)ベヘニルアルコール 0.2
(6)ステアリルアルコール 0.16
(7)モノイソステアリン酸グリセリン 0.8
(8)POEグリセリンモノイソステアレート 1.2
(9)スクワラン 3
(10)メチルフェニルポリシロキサン 6
(11)ジイソステアリン酸グリセリル 3
(12)水添ポリイソブテン 1.5
非極性油分量/(C)成分量:25.0%
粘度(ビスメトロン粘度計、VDA型、12rpm、ローターNo.3;測定温度25℃):4500mPa・s
(製法)
(5)~(12)を加熱混合し、油相の均一分散を行う。(1)~(4)を加熱混合し、水相を調製する。加熱した油相を前記水相に添加し、ホモジナイザーで乳化粒子を整え、攪拌しながら冷却し、目的の乳液を製造した。
得られた乳液は安定性が良好で、はり感、肌のやわらかさともに優れた使用感を有していた。
(質量%)
(1)水 残余
(2)グリセリン 5
(3)ジプロピレングリコール 5
(4)ポリアクリル酸ナトリウム・アクリロイルジメチルタウリンナトリウム共重合体
2.5
(5)ベヘニルアルコール 0.15
(6)ステアリルアルコール 0.07
(7)ソルビタンモノイソステアレート 0.5
(8)POEグリセリンモノイソステアレート 0.8
(9)スクワラン 2
(10)メチルフェニルポリシロキサン 3
(11)テトラ2-エチルヘキサン酸ペンタエリスリトール 4
(12)イソノナン酸イソノニル 2
(13)水添ポリイソブテン 2
非極性油分量/(C)成分量:18.2%
粘度(ビスメトロン粘度計、VDA型、12rpm、ローターNo.3;測定温度25℃):34600mPa・s
(製法)
(5)~(13)を加熱混合し、油相の均一分散を行う。(1)~(4)を加熱混合し、水相を調製する。加熱した油相を前記水相に添加し、ホモジナイザーで乳化粒子を整え、攪拌しながら冷却し、目的のジェルを製造した。
得られたジェルは安定性が良好で、はり感、肌のやわらかさともに優れた使用感を有していた。
(質量%)
(1)水 残余
(2)グリセリン 8
(3)ジプロピレングリコール 3
(4)カルボマー 0.2
(5)苛性カリ 0.06
(6)ベヘニルアルコール 0.2
(7)ステアリルアルコール 0.16
(8)モノイソステアリン酸グリセリン 0.8
(9)POEグリセリンモノイソステアレート 1.2
(10)スクワラン 3
(11)メチルポリシロキサン 2
(12)エチルヘキサン酸セチル 3
(13)リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル 5
(14)水添ポリイソブテン 1.5
(15)レチノール 0.05
非極性油分量/(C)成分量:23.1%
粘度(ビスメトロン粘度計、VDA型、12rpm、ローターNo.3;測定温度25℃):7900mPa・s
(製法)
(6)~(15)を加熱混合し、油相の均一分散を行う。(1)~(5)を加熱混合し、水相を調製する。加熱した油相を前記水相に添加し、ホモジナイザーで乳化粒子を整え、攪拌しながら冷却し、目的の美容液を製造した。
得られた美容液は安定性が良好で、はり感、肌のやわらかさともに優れた使用感を有していた。
Claims (3)
- 次の(A)~(F)成分を含み、非極性油分の配合量が(C)成分全量中30%以下であることを特徴とする水中油型乳化化粧料。
(A)数平均分子量が2000~3000である水添ポリイソブテン 0.1~5質量%
(B)高級アルコール 0.1~1質量%未満
(C)油性成分 1~25質量%
(D)界面活性剤 0.3~5質量%
(E)水溶性増粘剤 0.05~5質量%
(F)水性成分 - 請求項1に記載の水中油型乳化化粧料において、25℃における粘度が50000mPa・s以下であることを特徴とする水中油型乳化化粧料。
- 請求項1または2に記載の水中油型乳化化粧料において、(C)成分中に油溶性薬剤を含むことを特徴とする水中油型乳化化粧料。
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ES12837089.7T ES2610580T3 (es) | 2011-09-30 | 2012-04-04 | Producto cosmético en forma de emulsión tipo aceite-en-agua |
KR1020147007944A KR101910695B1 (ko) | 2011-09-30 | 2012-04-04 | 수중유형 유화화장료 |
CN2012800004317A CN103200927A (zh) | 2011-09-30 | 2012-04-04 | 水包油型乳化化妆品 |
US14/347,328 US9956148B2 (en) | 2011-09-30 | 2012-04-04 | Oil-in-water-type emulsion cosmetic |
JP2013535957A JP5972271B2 (ja) | 2011-09-30 | 2012-04-04 | 水中油型乳化化粧料 |
RU2014115278/15A RU2600030C2 (ru) | 2011-09-30 | 2012-04-04 | Косметическая эмульсия типа "масло в воде" |
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EP (1) | EP2762128B1 (ja) |
JP (1) | JP5972271B2 (ja) |
KR (1) | KR101910695B1 (ja) |
CN (2) | CN109908027A (ja) |
ES (1) | ES2610580T3 (ja) |
RU (1) | RU2600030C2 (ja) |
TW (1) | TWI549693B (ja) |
WO (1) | WO2013046770A1 (ja) |
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JP2015071596A (ja) * | 2013-09-09 | 2015-04-16 | 株式会社コーセー | 水中油型乳化化粧料 |
JP2015124148A (ja) * | 2013-12-25 | 2015-07-06 | ロート製薬株式会社 | 皮膚外用組成物 |
KR20160092912A (ko) * | 2015-01-28 | 2016-08-05 | 주식회사 엘지생활건강 | 수불용성 스폰지에 자외선 차단기능을 지닌 화장료 조성물이 함침된 화장품 |
WO2019188795A1 (ja) * | 2018-03-30 | 2019-10-03 | 株式会社マンダム | ジェル状化粧料 |
JP2019178079A (ja) * | 2018-03-30 | 2019-10-17 | 株式会社マンダム | ジェル状化粧料 |
JP2019182841A (ja) * | 2018-03-30 | 2019-10-24 | 株式会社マンダム | ジェル状化粧料 |
WO2022202598A1 (ja) * | 2021-03-26 | 2022-09-29 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 化粧料 |
JP7372658B2 (ja) | 2019-09-05 | 2023-11-01 | 日本メナード化粧品株式会社 | 液状水中油型乳化化粧料 |
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CN107007480B (zh) * | 2015-11-30 | 2021-08-17 | 富士胶片株式会社 | 凝胶状水包油型乳化组合物、皮肤外用剂以及水包油型乳化组合物的制造方法 |
JP6147897B1 (ja) * | 2016-06-29 | 2017-06-14 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 水中油型乳化唇用化粧料 |
WO2018079717A1 (ja) * | 2016-10-31 | 2018-05-03 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 水中油型皮膚外用組成物 |
US20210244641A1 (en) * | 2018-08-15 | 2021-08-12 | Dow Toray Co., Ltd. | Cosmetic |
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KR20160092912A (ko) * | 2015-01-28 | 2016-08-05 | 주식회사 엘지생활건강 | 수불용성 스폰지에 자외선 차단기능을 지닌 화장료 조성물이 함침된 화장품 |
KR101691532B1 (ko) * | 2015-01-28 | 2016-12-30 | 주식회사 엘지생활건강 | 수불용성 스폰지에 자외선 차단기능을 지닌 화장료 조성물이 함침된 화장품 |
KR20170001700A (ko) * | 2015-01-28 | 2017-01-04 | 주식회사 엘지생활건강 | 수불용성 스폰지에 자외선 차단기능을 지닌 화장료 조성물이 함침된 화장품 |
KR101968572B1 (ko) | 2015-01-28 | 2019-04-12 | 주식회사 엘지생활건강 | 수불용성 스폰지에 자외선 차단기능을 지닌 화장료 조성물이 함침된 화장품 |
WO2019188795A1 (ja) * | 2018-03-30 | 2019-10-03 | 株式会社マンダム | ジェル状化粧料 |
JP2019178079A (ja) * | 2018-03-30 | 2019-10-17 | 株式会社マンダム | ジェル状化粧料 |
JP2019182841A (ja) * | 2018-03-30 | 2019-10-24 | 株式会社マンダム | ジェル状化粧料 |
JP7372658B2 (ja) | 2019-09-05 | 2023-11-01 | 日本メナード化粧品株式会社 | 液状水中油型乳化化粧料 |
WO2022202598A1 (ja) * | 2021-03-26 | 2022-09-29 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 化粧料 |
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KR101910695B1 (ko) | 2018-10-22 |
EP2762128A1 (en) | 2014-08-06 |
ES2610580T3 (es) | 2017-04-28 |
RU2600030C2 (ru) | 2016-10-20 |
RU2014115278A (ru) | 2015-11-10 |
EP2762128A4 (en) | 2015-04-29 |
US20140235732A1 (en) | 2014-08-21 |
CN109908027A (zh) | 2019-06-21 |
JPWO2013046770A1 (ja) | 2015-03-26 |
US9956148B2 (en) | 2018-05-01 |
EP2762128B1 (en) | 2016-11-02 |
KR20140072057A (ko) | 2014-06-12 |
TW201313249A (zh) | 2013-04-01 |
CN103200927A (zh) | 2013-07-10 |
JP5972271B2 (ja) | 2016-08-17 |
TWI549693B (zh) | 2016-09-21 |
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