WO2011126187A1 - Tissu denim, procédé de préparation associé, et produit denim contenant le tissu denim - Google Patents

Tissu denim, procédé de préparation associé, et produit denim contenant le tissu denim Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011126187A1
WO2011126187A1 PCT/KR2010/006990 KR2010006990W WO2011126187A1 WO 2011126187 A1 WO2011126187 A1 WO 2011126187A1 KR 2010006990 W KR2010006990 W KR 2010006990W WO 2011126187 A1 WO2011126187 A1 WO 2011126187A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
blended
cotton
denim fabric
denim
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/KR2010/006990
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English (en)
Korean (ko)
Inventor
이호숙
김동주
Original Assignee
Lee Ho-Sook
Kim Dong-Joo
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
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Application filed by Lee Ho-Sook, Kim Dong-Joo filed Critical Lee Ho-Sook
Publication of WO2011126187A1 publication Critical patent/WO2011126187A1/fr

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/20—Physical treatments affecting dyeing, e.g. ultrasonic or electric
    • D06P5/2066—Thermic treatments of textile materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
    • D06B11/0076—Transfer-treating
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/16—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8219—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and amide groups
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8223—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and ester groups
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/003—Transfer printing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/34—Material containing ester groups
    • D06P3/52—Polyesters
    • D06P3/54—Polyesters using dispersed dyestuffs

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a denim fabric, and more particularly, to a denim fabric printed with a high fastness of a pattern or a design by an inclined printing method, a product comprising the denim fabric, and a method of manufacturing the denim fabric.
  • Denim is a kind of relatively thick cotton fabric woven in twill using warp yarn (dye), dyed blue, blue, and white yarn.
  • the yarn used for denim is cotton yarn, and a blended yarn in which cotton fibers are mixed with nylon or other fibers is also used. Unlike other garments, these denim garments are produced in a variety of shapes with only a few changes in basic fabrics and diversified processing methods and designs.
  • washing methods which partially discolor to give a visual change to such monochromatic denim are generally used. That is, the denim is bleached with friction agent and pumice and rotated (friction wash) to partially whiten the denim, or a special chemical is added to the wash solution to change the surface of the fabric (chemical wash), Alternatively, an enzyme called cellulase that breaks down cellulose molecules is used to change the surface of the fabric (enzyme wash).
  • this method has a limitation in that it cannot express complex and delicate patterns and there is no reproducibility of the patterns.
  • the denim is embroidered with a separate color yarn to express the pattern. In this case, however, an expensive handicraft is required to embroider.
  • Korean Patent Registration No. 0431154 (registered on Apr. 30, 2004) forms irregularities in denim by heating and compressing the denim with a mold having a pattern, and putting it together with a bleaching agent and pumice in a rotating drum to perform friction wash on the denim.
  • Korean Patent Registration No. 0727583 (2007. 06. 05. registration) discloses a method of removing masking by forming a masking on denim with a water-soluble masking solution and performing laser sanding to decolor the unmasked area and then washing with water. do.
  • Korean Patent Registration No. 0912834 (registered on Aug. 12, 2009) uses two or more kinds of warp yarns having different shades to fabric having different shade patterns.
  • denim is disclosed.
  • Screen printing is mainly used as a method of printing a pattern on a textile fabric. Such screen printing can also be applied to denim fabrics.
  • screen printing is a method of printing discontinuously by a printing plate, so unless a very elaborate printing, a so-called Gucci line is formed in which the direction of printing is different between the pattern of one plate and the pattern of the next plate.
  • the printing by the pigment composition does not apply well to cotton fabrics.
  • Korean Patent Registration No. 225620 (registered on July 21, 1999) discloses a method of improving the printing properties of cotton fabrics by pretreatment with an aqueous cellulase preparation before printing cotton fabrics such as denim. This patent indicates that such pretreatment increases the pigment absorbency and pigment adhesion of the cotton fabric and reduces the bleeding of the pigment.
  • Korean Patent Registration No. 0333025 discloses a method of printing various patterns by printing ordinary jeans fabrics treated with insoluble dyes in a printing method including an indigo dye by a shock method or a thermal method.
  • the printing foil used here is 5-20wt% of sodium dichromate (Na 2 Cr 2 O 7 2H2O) so that the dye is reduced and fixed as the dye of the pattern is chemically reacted against the insoluble dye of the strong acid fabric.
  • 10-30wt% binder, 4-10wt% hosin thickener, and indigo dye (Indigo Dye), penetrant and antifoaming agent corresponding to the color of the desired pattern are added to the water in trace amounts of 5wt% or less, respectively.
  • Republic of Korea Patent Publication No. 1999-0084115 (published Dec. 06, 1999) is to add the desired pigment to the epoxy resin composition of 3 ⁇ 10% by weight of epoxy resin, 5-20% by weight of silicone, and then the cotton fabric with a high-pressure air spray After spraying to a desired portion of, and then cured for 10 to 20 minutes at a temperature of 100 ⁇ 180 °C, washes in a conventional manner, and then discloses a coating method of the cotton fabric to be washed, dehydrated and dried.
  • the present invention has been made to overcome the problems and limitations of the prior art described above. Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a denim fabric and a method of manufacturing the same, and a denim product comprising a denim fabric having a variety of desired patterns or designs with high fastness and precision.
  • Denim fabric of the present invention for achieving the above object is that the design is printed by the gradient printing method in which the design is transferred to the inclined bundle from the transfer paper printed by the heat and pressure in the weaving process.
  • the colorant for the design formed on the transfer paper is preferably a dye
  • the warp yarn of the denim fabric is preferably made of natural or synthetic fibers that can accommodate the dye by thermal transfer printing method.
  • the dye may be a disperse dye
  • the inclination of the denim fabric is made of polyester alone, or the polyester is blended with one selected from cotton, rayon, acetate, wool and flax. Or blended blended yarns or blended yarns.
  • the weft yarn is preferably pure cotton yarn or is white or dyed as a mixed yarn or blended yarn in which cotton and other fibers such as polyester, polyurethane, nylon and the like are mixed or blended.
  • the weft yarn may be a core spun yarn spun by segmented polyurethane (spandex) as the core yarn (core yarn) and surrounding it with cotton short fibers (Staple Fiber). In this case, spandex fabric.
  • Such denim fabric according to the present invention is a laundry fastness measured according to the AATCC 61, 1A (40 °C, 45 minutes, 0.37% soap solution) method, and AATCC 132 (solvent: perchloroethylene, 30 ⁇ 2 °C, 30 minutes
  • the fastness of one or more selected from the group consisting of dry cleaning fastnesses measured according to the method is superior to class 4 or higher (see “Sample 1” in FIG. 1).
  • the method for manufacturing a denim fabric according to the present invention comprises the steps of aligning and supplying the inclined wound on the beam for the weaving of the denim fabric, the step of laminating and supplying the transfer paper with the design printed on the upper surface of the supplied inclined And heat-printing the surface of the transfer paper by printing and compressing the printed design on the transfer paper onto the warp yarns, and weaving the warp yarns with the weft yarns to weave the denim fabric.
  • the matters relating to the warp, the weft and the transfer paper are the same as above, and the thermal transfer printing is performed at a temperature of 200 to 250 ° C.
  • Denim fabric according to the present invention is precisely formed a variety of desired patterns or designs, the pattern has a high durability.
  • the denim fabric according to the present invention is a unique design and color that can not be expressed as a single pattern as the pattern formed on the inclined by the warp printing is combined or overlapped with the color of the weft when using the dyed yarn as the weft Allows you to express
  • Figure 2 is a SSM (StereoScopic Microscope) photograph showing the weft direction cut section of the denim fabric prepared according to one embodiment of the present invention (Example 1), the printing colorant is not only on the surface of the slope, but also the slope filament (Filament) It can be seen that the infiltration into the interior of the slope through the gap.
  • SSM StepoScopic Microscope
  • Figure 3 is a SSM (StereoScopic Microscope) photograph showing the weft direction cut section of the denim fabric prepared according to one embodiment of the present invention (Example 2), the printing colorant is not only on the surface of the slope, but also the gap between the fibers of the slope. It can be seen that the penetration through the interior of the slope.
  • SSM StepoScopic Microscope
  • Figure 4 is a SSM (StereoScopic Microscope) photograph showing the weft direction cut section of the denim fabric prepared according to the comparative example, the printing color is very small adhesion so that it is difficult to visually check only on one surface of the fabric is very You can see the low one.
  • SSM StereoScopic Microscope
  • denim product includes denim fabrics and end products such as garments, fabrics, hats, bags, wallets, shoes, and the like made by denim fabrics.
  • design may be understood to include the pattern of the pattern and the continuous pattern represented on the fabric.
  • the present invention is to apply bevel printing to form the desired various patterns or designs on the denim fabric.
  • Gradient printing is a commonly applied technique in the weaving process of fabrics, but it has never been used to form patterns in denim fabrics.
  • the denim fabric when the denim fabric is printed by screen printing or thermal transfer printing, the printed pattern or design is formed only on one surface of the denim fabric as shown in FIG. 4, and the non-printed opposite surface uses white thread.
  • the color becomes white
  • the color becomes the color of the dyed yarn.
  • the pattern formed on the surface of the denim fabric by such printing is easily discolored by washing, friction, and dry cleaning
  • the denim fabric is generally formed by dyeing yarn without forming a pattern or color by the printing method. It is common to form a pattern by discoloration by wash processing after forming the color of the fabric and weaving the fabric.
  • the present inventors can precisely express the desired pattern on the denim fabric when the design is printed by the gradient printing method in which the pattern or the design is transferred by the warp bundle from the transfer paper from which the pattern or the design is printed by heat and pressure in the weaving process.
  • the unexpected fact of having excellent fastness was confirmed and led to this invention.
  • the method of using dyed yarn is generally adopted to show color
  • the decolorization by processing after weaving is generally adopted to form a pattern
  • the cellulose constituting cotton yarn is generally thermally transferred. Since it is known that printing by the method is impossible or very difficult, it is not easy to apply gradient printing to the warp of the denim fabric.
  • the colorant for the design to be formed on the transfer paper used must be a dye.
  • the pigment can be colored on the transfer paper, but it is not easy to transfer the design represented by the pigment from the transfer paper to the denim fabric by thermocompression. In other words, there is no technology that can be applied to the thermal transfer printing method so far.
  • warp yarns of denim fabrics shall be made of natural or synthetic fibers that can accommodate dyes by thermal transfer printing.
  • Such yarns can be, for example, polyesters, polyamides, triacetates, acrylics, silks or wool.
  • synthetic fibers such as polyester and the like are preferred, regenerated fibers such as acetate can also be used, and yarns of natural protein fibers such as silk or wool are less preferred.
  • Cotton fabrics are better than cotton fabrics because they are not suitable for thermal transfer printing, but warp printing for cotton yarns is not preferable.
  • the inclination of the denim fabric to be applied to the present invention is made of natural or synthetic fibers alone, in particular polyester alone, which can accommodate dyes by thermal transfer printing, or cotton, rayon, acetate, wool. And flax is preferably a blended or blended blended yarn or blended yarn.
  • the dyes applied to the present invention may be other dyes, but disperse dyes are particularly preferable.
  • the weft yarn applied to the denim fabric of the present invention may be pure cotton yarn or a white yarn or a dyed yarn which is not dyed as a blended yarn or blended yarn in which cotton and other fibers such as polyester, polyurethane, nylon and the like are mixed or blended.
  • the weft yarn may be a core spun yarn spun with segmented polyurethane (spandex) as a core yarn and surrounded by a cotton yarn. In this case, span denim fabric.
  • the weft yarn being white yarn, the pattern of the denim fabric appears only by printing on the warp yarns.
  • the weft yarn is a dyed yarn
  • the pattern of the denim fabric is a combination of a design printed on an inclined surface on a blue background formed entirely by the weft yarn. By shining and overlapping, it forms a unique shape not found in other products.
  • the step of aligning and supplying the inclined wound on the beam the step of supplying by stacking the transfer paper with a design printed on the upper surface of the supplied inclined, heating the surface of the transfer paper , Thermally printing the printed design onto the transfer paper by pressing, and weaving the denim fabric by weaving the warp yarn with the weft yarn.
  • the matters relating to the warp, the weft and the transfer paper are the same as above, and the thermal transfer printing is performed at a temperature of 200 to 250 ° C.
  • post-processing refining and tenter processing processes are generally performed. If unsalted weft is used, the post dyeing process can be carried out. In the back dyeing process, dyeing is performed by various dyes such as reactive dyes, direct dyes, indigo dyes and acid dyes.
  • the denim fabric of the present invention woven in this way uses a fiber that can accommodate dyes by thermal transfer such as cotton weft, polyester, or the like, and a warp blended with cotton, etc. It is formed by printing the color fastness, such as washing fastness and dry cleaning fastness has a superior grade of 4 or more, and can also express a sophisticated design, and in particular can implement a unique design not seen in other products.
  • the warp yarn is made of polyester filament and the weft yarn is woven, and the transfer printing is performed while the warp is thermally compressed at a temperature of about 200 to 250 ° C.
  • the transfer paper used a transfer paper complexed with a disperse dye, and weaving with a 100% cotton yarn or a cotton dyeing yarn dyed cotton. In this case, it is possible to produce a teaching fabric having both polyester and cotton characteristics, and excellent fastnesses can be obtained.
  • the final product can be easily refined at 40 ⁇ 50 °C through a continuous refining machine, dried at 80 ⁇ 100 °C in a cylinder, and then processed through a simple processing process through a tenter process.
  • weaving cotton weft through the general cotton dyeing process may produce various color effects.
  • the cotton feeling is not the same as that of spun yarn. Therefore, instead of the warp polyester long fiber, use a short fiber polyester spun yarn and work in the same manner as in Example 1. In this way, a touch and a feeling closer to 100% cotton can be realized.
  • Example 1 and Example 2 the user who requires a lot of cotton in terms of the composition of polyester and cotton cannot give satisfaction. In that case, you can solve it as follows.
  • T / C polyethylene terephthalate, a raw material of polyester
  • T-traded by Tetron of Japan TORAY and C-shaped by cotton (Cotton) After thermal transfer printing using a transfer paper complexed with a disperse dye only in the polyester yarn portion, the weft yarn is woven in the same T / C or 100% cotton. Subsequent processing can be carried out both the method of dyeing and dyeing. In the case of back dyeing, the cotton and weft sides of the warp yarns are dyed in the same color and the various colors can be added to the printed warp.
  • Example 2 when using a weft yarn as a core yarn (thread spun with PolyUrethane as the core yarn for spinning) or a yarn covered with PU Denim fabrics can be produced.
  • the physical properties of the PU may be changed by heat by the thermal transfer method, thereby preventing the product from being commercialized.
  • thin weaving fabrics with spans of weft it can be applied to elastic products such as leggings with a design.
  • Thermal transfer printing was carried out under the same conditions on the same transfer paper as used in the Example for general denim paper (100% cotton) prepared according to a conventional method to complete a printed conventional denim fabric.
  • the present invention can be widely used in denim fabrics and products using the same, various patterns, designs are required.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un tissu denim dans lequel le motif est imprimé par impression sur chaîne, le motif étant transféré d'un papier de transfert, sur lequel le motif est imprimé, à un faisceau de chaîne par chaleur et pression durant un procédé de tissage. Particulièrement, le produit denim selon la présente invention permet l'expression d'un motif spécial capable de ne pas être exprimé à l'aide d'un seul motif car le motif formé dans une chaîne par impression sur chaîne est associé à ou chevauche la couleur d'une trame dans le cas de l'utilisation d'une trame en tant que fil de teinture.
PCT/KR2010/006990 2010-04-06 2010-10-13 Tissu denim, procédé de préparation associé, et produit denim contenant le tissu denim WO2011126187A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
KR1020100031200A KR100981911B1 (ko) 2010-04-06 2010-04-06 데님 제품 및 그 제조방법
KR10-2010-0031200 2010-04-06

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WO2011126187A1 true WO2011126187A1 (fr) 2011-10-13

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WO (1) WO2011126187A1 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114438805A (zh) * 2022-01-11 2022-05-06 广州希音国际进出口有限公司 一种牛仔效果成衣的生产方法

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2023013796A1 (fr) * 2021-08-04 2023-02-09 주식회사 신진텍스 Tissu indigo et procédé pour sa fabrication

Citations (5)

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KR930019927A (ko) * 1992-03-26 1993-10-19 권영두 연사직물지의 다색날염 방법 및 장치
KR0175932B1 (ko) * 1990-05-29 1999-02-01 꼬르비에르 끌로드 경사 날염법 및 그 장치
JP2003089944A (ja) * 2001-09-17 2003-03-28 Motoyasu Hori ワーププリント織物及びその製造方法
KR20070088032A (ko) * 2006-02-24 2007-08-29 김진곤 디지털 텍스타일 프린터로 청바지에 다양한 색상을나염하기 위한 방법
KR100835070B1 (ko) * 2007-05-14 2008-06-03 홍병호 폴리에스터 섬유 편직물의 열전사 날염방법에 적용 가능한백색방염, 착색방염 및 반방염 열전사 날염방법과, 이방법으로 날염한 폴리에스터 섬유 편직물

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR0175932B1 (ko) * 1990-05-29 1999-02-01 꼬르비에르 끌로드 경사 날염법 및 그 장치
KR930019927A (ko) * 1992-03-26 1993-10-19 권영두 연사직물지의 다색날염 방법 및 장치
JP2003089944A (ja) * 2001-09-17 2003-03-28 Motoyasu Hori ワーププリント織物及びその製造方法
KR20070088032A (ko) * 2006-02-24 2007-08-29 김진곤 디지털 텍스타일 프린터로 청바지에 다양한 색상을나염하기 위한 방법
KR100835070B1 (ko) * 2007-05-14 2008-06-03 홍병호 폴리에스터 섬유 편직물의 열전사 날염방법에 적용 가능한백색방염, 착색방염 및 반방염 열전사 날염방법과, 이방법으로 날염한 폴리에스터 섬유 편직물

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114438805A (zh) * 2022-01-11 2022-05-06 广州希音国际进出口有限公司 一种牛仔效果成衣的生产方法

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