WO2011126187A1

WO2011126187A1 - Denim fabric, preparation method thereof, and denim product containing denim fabric

Info

Publication number: WO2011126187A1
Application number: PCT/KR2010/006990
Authority: WO
Inventors: 이호숙; 김동주
Original assignee: Lee Ho-Sook; Kim Dong-Joo
Priority date: 2010-04-06
Filing date: 2010-10-13
Publication date: 2011-10-13
Also published as: KR100981911B1

Abstract

Disclosed is a denim fabric in which the design is printed by warp printing, wherein the design is transferred from a transfer paper on which the design is printed to a bundle of warp by heat and pressure during a weaving process. Particularly, the denim product according to the present invention enables expression of a special design capable of being not expressed with a single design since the design formed in a warp by warp printing is combined with or overlaps with the color of a weft in the case of using a weft as a dying yarn.

Description

Denim products, including denim fabrics and methods for making the same

The present invention relates to a denim fabric, and more particularly, to a denim fabric printed with a high fastness of a pattern or a design by an inclined printing method, a product comprising the denim fabric, and a method of manufacturing the denim fabric.

Denim is a kind of relatively thick cotton fabric woven in twill using warp yarn (dye), dyed blue, blue, and white yarn. The yarn used for denim is cotton yarn, and a blended yarn in which cotton fibers are mixed with nylon or other fibers is also used. Unlike other garments, these denim garments are produced in a variety of shapes with only a few changes in basic fabrics and diversified processing methods and designs.

Washing methods which partially discolor to give a visual change to such monochromatic denim are generally used. That is, the denim is bleached with friction agent and pumice and rotated (friction wash) to partially whiten the denim, or a special chemical is added to the wash solution to change the surface of the fabric (chemical wash), Alternatively, an enzyme called cellulase that breaks down cellulose molecules is used to change the surface of the fabric (enzyme wash). However, this method has a limitation in that it cannot express complex and delicate patterns and there is no reproducibility of the patterns. On the other hand, the denim is embroidered with a separate color yarn to express the pattern. In this case, however, an expensive handicraft is required to embroider.

Korean Patent Registration No. 0431154 (registered on Apr. 30, 2004) forms irregularities in denim by heating and compressing the denim with a mold having a pattern, and putting it together with a bleaching agent and pumice in a rotating drum to perform friction wash on the denim. Disclosed is a method of discoloring protrusions of expressed patterns so that various patterns can be expressed in denim without expensive handicraft. Korean Patent Registration No. 0727583 (2007. 06. 05. registration) discloses a method of removing masking by forming a masking on denim with a water-soluble masking solution and performing laser sanding to decolor the unmasked area and then washing with water. do.

Meanwhile, as another method of forming a pattern on denim products, Korean Patent Registration No. 0912834 (registered on Aug. 12, 2009) uses two or more kinds of warp yarns having different shades to fabric having different shade patterns. In particular, denim is disclosed.

Screen printing is mainly used as a method of printing a pattern on a textile fabric. Such screen printing can also be applied to denim fabrics. However, screen printing is a method of printing discontinuously by a printing plate, so unless a very elaborate printing, a so-called Gucci line is formed in which the direction of printing is different between the pattern of one plate and the pattern of the next plate. There is a limit to the prize. In addition, since cotton fabrics such as denim have low pigment absorption, the printing by the pigment composition does not apply well to cotton fabrics. Korean Patent Registration No. 225620 (registered on July 21, 1999) discloses a method of improving the printing properties of cotton fabrics by pretreatment with an aqueous cellulase preparation before printing cotton fabrics such as denim. This patent indicates that such pretreatment increases the pigment absorbency and pigment adhesion of the cotton fabric and reduces the bleeding of the pigment.

Korean Patent Registration No. 0333025 (2002. 04. 04.) discloses a method of printing various patterns by printing ordinary jeans fabrics treated with insoluble dyes in a printing method including an indigo dye by a shock method or a thermal method. . The printing foil used here is 5-20wt% of sodium dichromate (Na ₂ Cr ₂ O ₇ 2H2O) so that the dye is reduced and fixed as the dye of the pattern is chemically reacted against the insoluble dye of the strong acid fabric. And, 10-30wt% binder, 4-10wt% hosin thickener, and indigo dye (Indigo Dye), penetrant and antifoaming agent corresponding to the color of the desired pattern are added to the water in trace amounts of 5wt% or less, respectively.

Republic of Korea Patent Publication No. 1999-0084115 (published Dec. 06, 1999) is to add the desired pigment to the epoxy resin composition of 3 ~ 10% by weight of epoxy resin, 5-20% by weight of silicone, and then the cotton fabric with a high-pressure air spray After spraying to a desired portion of, and then cured for 10 to 20 minutes at a temperature of 100 ~ 180 ℃, washes in a conventional manner, and then discloses a coating method of the cotton fabric to be washed, dehydrated and dried.

As mentioned above, in order to form a desired pattern on denim or cotton fabrics, various processing methods, several weaving methods, and printing methods have been proposed, but various patterns are formed in denim with high fastness and elaboration. More satisfactory methods are still needed.

Accordingly, the present invention has been made to overcome the problems and limitations of the prior art described above. Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a denim fabric and a method of manufacturing the same, and a denim product comprising a denim fabric having a variety of desired patterns or designs with high fastness and precision.

Denim fabric of the present invention for achieving the above object is that the design is printed by the gradient printing method in which the design is transferred to the inclined bundle from the transfer paper printed by the heat and pressure in the weaving process.

In the above, the colorant for the design formed on the transfer paper is preferably a dye, and the warp yarn of the denim fabric is preferably made of natural or synthetic fibers that can accommodate the dye by thermal transfer printing method. Do. In particular, the dye may be a disperse dye, and the inclination of the denim fabric is made of polyester alone, or the polyester is blended with one selected from cotton, rayon, acetate, wool and flax. Or blended blended yarns or blended yarns. The weft yarn is preferably pure cotton yarn or is white or dyed as a mixed yarn or blended yarn in which cotton and other fibers such as polyester, polyurethane, nylon and the like are mixed or blended. In particular, the weft yarn may be a core spun yarn spun by segmented polyurethane (spandex) as the core yarn (core yarn) and surrounding it with cotton short fibers (Staple Fiber). In this case, spandex fabric.

Such denim fabric according to the present invention is a laundry fastness measured according to the AATCC 61, 1A (40 ℃, 45 minutes, 0.37% soap solution) method, and AATCC 132 (solvent: perchloroethylene, 30 ± 2 ℃, 30 minutes The fastness of one or more selected from the group consisting of dry cleaning fastnesses measured according to the method is superior to class 4 or higher (see “Sample 1” in FIG. 1).

In addition, the method for manufacturing a denim fabric according to the present invention comprises the steps of aligning and supplying the inclined wound on the beam for the weaving of the denim fabric, the step of laminating and supplying the transfer paper with the design printed on the upper surface of the supplied inclined And heat-printing the surface of the transfer paper by printing and compressing the printed design on the transfer paper onto the warp yarns, and weaving the warp yarns with the weft yarns to weave the denim fabric. Here, the matters relating to the warp, the weft and the transfer paper are the same as above, and the thermal transfer printing is performed at a temperature of 200 to 250 ° C.

Denim fabric according to the present invention is precisely formed a variety of desired patterns or designs, the pattern has a high durability. In particular, the denim fabric according to the present invention is a unique design and color that can not be expressed as a single pattern as the pattern formed on the inclined by the warp printing is combined or overlapped with the color of the weft when using the dyed yarn as the weft Allows you to express

1 is a test report regarding the fastness of the denim fabric according to the embodiments of the present invention and the denim fabric according to the comparative example.

Figure 2 is a SSM (StereoScopic Microscope) photograph showing the weft direction cut section of the denim fabric prepared according to one embodiment of the present invention (Example 1), the printing colorant is not only on the surface of the slope, but also the slope filament (Filament) It can be seen that the infiltration into the interior of the slope through the gap.

Figure 3 is a SSM (StereoScopic Microscope) photograph showing the weft direction cut section of the denim fabric prepared according to one embodiment of the present invention (Example 2), the printing colorant is not only on the surface of the slope, but also the gap between the fibers of the slope. It can be seen that the penetration through the interior of the slope.

Figure 4 is a SSM (StereoScopic Microscope) photograph showing the weft direction cut section of the denim fabric prepared according to the comparative example, the printing color is very small adhesion so that it is difficult to visually check only on one surface of the fabric is very You can see the low one.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail. The term denim product, as used herein, includes denim fabrics and end products such as garments, fabrics, hats, bags, wallets, shoes, and the like made by denim fabrics. As used herein, the term design may be understood to include the pattern of the pattern and the continuous pattern represented on the fabric.

The present invention is to apply bevel printing to form the desired various patterns or designs on the denim fabric. Gradient printing is a commonly applied technique in the weaving process of fabrics, but it has never been used to form patterns in denim fabrics.

In general, when the denim fabric is printed by screen printing or thermal transfer printing, the printed pattern or design is formed only on one surface of the denim fabric as shown in FIG. 4, and the non-printed opposite surface uses white thread. In the case of forming the denim fabric, the color becomes white, and in the case of forming the denim fabric using the dyed yarn, the color becomes the color of the dyed yarn. Since the pattern formed on the surface of the denim fabric by such printing is easily discolored by washing, friction, and dry cleaning, the denim fabric is generally formed by dyeing yarn without forming a pattern or color by the printing method. It is common to form a pattern by discoloration by wash processing after forming the color of the fabric and weaving the fabric.

Accordingly, the present inventors can precisely express the desired pattern on the denim fabric when the design is printed by the gradient printing method in which the pattern or the design is transferred by the warp bundle from the transfer paper from which the pattern or the design is printed by heat and pressure in the weaving process. The unexpected fact of having excellent fastness was confirmed and led to this invention. In the manufacture of denim fabrics, the method of using dyed yarn is generally adopted to show color, and the decolorization by processing after weaving is generally adopted to form a pattern, and the cellulose constituting cotton yarn is generally thermally transferred. Since it is known that printing by the method is impossible or very difficult, it is not easy to apply gradient printing to the warp of the denim fabric.

Such unexpected results, that is, the reason why the denim fabric according to the present invention has excellent wash fastness is as shown in the SS (StereoScopic Microscope) pictures of FIGS. It is analyzed that it is due not only to the surface of the warp but also to the inside of the warp through the gap between the fibers of the warp. As can be seen in Figures 2 and 3 it can be seen that the dye is also coated around the yarn. This contrasts with the fact that when the conventional denim fabric is printed by thermal transfer printing, a pattern is formed only on one surface of the denim product, as shown in FIG.

As such, in order to form a pattern or a design having excellent fastness to denim fabric by the gradient printing to which thermal transfer printing is applied, the colorant for the design to be formed on the transfer paper used must be a dye. When the pigment is used as the colorant, the pigment can be colored on the transfer paper, but it is not easy to transfer the design represented by the pigment from the transfer paper to the denim fabric by thermocompression. In other words, there is no technology that can be applied to the thermal transfer printing method so far.

In addition, warp yarns of denim fabrics shall be made of natural or synthetic fibers that can accommodate dyes by thermal transfer printing. Such yarns can be, for example, polyesters, polyamides, triacetates, acrylics, silks or wool. Of these, synthetic fibers such as polyester and the like are preferred, regenerated fibers such as acetate can also be used, and yarns of natural protein fibers such as silk or wool are less preferred. Cotton fabrics are better than cotton fabrics because they are not suitable for thermal transfer printing, but warp printing for cotton yarns is not preferable.

Therefore, the inclination of the denim fabric to be applied to the present invention is made of natural or synthetic fibers alone, in particular polyester alone, which can accommodate dyes by thermal transfer printing, or cotton, rayon, acetate, wool. And flax is preferably a blended or blended blended yarn or blended yarn. In addition, the dyes applied to the present invention may be other dyes, but disperse dyes are particularly preferable.

The weft yarn applied to the denim fabric of the present invention may be pure cotton yarn or a white yarn or a dyed yarn which is not dyed as a blended yarn or blended yarn in which cotton and other fibers such as polyester, polyurethane, nylon and the like are mixed or blended. In particular, the weft yarn may be a core spun yarn spun with segmented polyurethane (spandex) as a core yarn and surrounded by a cotton yarn. In this case, span denim fabric. In the case of the weft yarn being white yarn, the pattern of the denim fabric appears only by printing on the warp yarns. In contrast, when the weft yarn is a dyed yarn, for example, in the case of a dyed yarn dyed blue with an indigo dye, the pattern of the denim fabric is a combination of a design printed on an inclined surface on a blue background formed entirely by the weft yarn. By shining and overlapping, it forms a unique shape not found in other products.

In order to weave the denim fabric of the present invention, the step of aligning and supplying the inclined wound on the beam, the step of supplying by stacking the transfer paper with a design printed on the upper surface of the supplied inclined, heating the surface of the transfer paper , Thermally printing the printed design onto the transfer paper by pressing, and weaving the denim fabric by weaving the warp yarn with the weft yarn. Here, the matters relating to the warp, the weft and the transfer paper are the same as above, and the thermal transfer printing is performed at a temperature of 200 to 250 ° C. After weaving the denim fabric, as post-processing, refining and tenter processing processes are generally performed. If unsalted weft is used, the post dyeing process can be carried out. In the back dyeing process, dyeing is performed by various dyes such as reactive dyes, direct dyes, indigo dyes and acid dyes.

The denim fabric of the present invention woven in this way uses a fiber that can accommodate dyes by thermal transfer such as cotton weft, polyester, or the like, and a warp blended with cotton, etc. It is formed by printing the color fastness, such as washing fastness and dry cleaning fastness has a superior grade of 4 or more, and can also express a sophisticated design, and in particular can implement a unique design not seen in other products.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be illustrated in more detail by examples.

Example 1

The warp yarn is made of polyester filament and the weft yarn is woven, and the transfer printing is performed while the warp is thermally compressed at a temperature of about 200 to 250 ° C. At this time, the transfer paper used a transfer paper complexed with a disperse dye, and weaving with a 100% cotton yarn or a cotton dyeing yarn dyed cotton. In this case, it is possible to produce a teaching fabric having both polyester and cotton characteristics, and excellent fastnesses can be obtained.

In case of using sand yarn, the final product can be easily refined at 40 ~ 50 ℃ through a continuous refining machine, dried at 80 ~ 100 ℃ in a cylinder, and then processed through a simple processing process through a tenter process. When used, weaving cotton weft through the general cotton dyeing process may produce various color effects.

Example 2

When the warp yarn is made of long fiber, the cotton feeling is not the same as that of spun yarn. Therefore, instead of the warp polyester long fiber, use a short fiber polyester spun yarn and work in the same manner as in Example 1. In this way, a touch and a feeling closer to 100% cotton can be realized.

Example 3

In the case of Example 1 and Example 2, the user who requires a lot of cotton in terms of the composition of polyester and cotton cannot give satisfaction. In that case, you can solve it as follows.

T / C (polyethylene terephthalate, a raw material of polyester) is a yarn of polyester and cotton blended by T-traded by Tetron of Japan TORAY and C-shaped by cotton (Cotton). After thermal transfer printing using a transfer paper complexed with a disperse dye only in the polyester yarn portion, the weft yarn is woven in the same T / C or 100% cotton. Subsequent processing can be carried out both the method of dyeing and dyeing. In the case of back dyeing, the cotton and weft sides of the warp yarns are dyed in the same color and the various colors can be added to the printed warp.

It can be grafted into various yarns in denim materials, ramp T / F (Polyester and Flax) products, T / R (Polyester and Rayon) products, T / W (Polyester and Wool) products, etc. It can be grafted into various yarns, and it can reproduce more than two-tone colors while adding a design when processing it with thick dye.

Example 4

In the same warp method as in Example 1, Example 2, and Example 3, when using a weft yarn as a core yarn (thread spun with PolyUrethane as the core yarn for spinning) or a yarn covered with PU Denim fabrics can be produced. In the case of transfer printing by weaving and processing a span product with fabric, the physical properties of the PU may be changed by heat by the thermal transfer method, thereby preventing the product from being commercialized. In the case of thin weaving fabrics with spans of weft, it can be applied to elastic products such as leggings with a design.

Comparative example

Thermal transfer printing was carried out under the same conditions on the same transfer paper as used in the Example for general denim paper (100% cotton) prepared according to a conventional method to complete a printed conventional denim fabric.

Performance evaluation

In order to evaluate the printing performance of the denim fabric manufactured according to the present invention and to evaluate the printing performance of the denim fabric formed by thermal transfer printing according to the comparative example, a test report as shown in FIG. Got it. Denim fabric according to Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention, as shown in the test report, washing fastness measured according to the method AATCC 61, 1A (40 ℃, 45 minutes, 0.37% soap solution), and AATCC 132 (solvent: Dry cleaning fastness measured according to the method perchlorethylene, 30 ± 2 ℃, 30 minutes was excellent in class 4 or more, and was also good in terms of daylight fastness and sweat fastness ("Sample 1" of Figure 1 is Example 1). , "Sample 2" is Example 2). On the contrary, the denim fabric according to the comparative example was generally poor in fastness, and there was no commerciality (“sample 3” in FIG. 1).

The present invention can be widely used in denim fabrics and products using the same, various patterns, designs are required.

Claims

In the weaving process, the design is printed by a gradient printing method in which the design is transferred to the inclined bundle from the transfer paper printed by the heat and pressure.

Wash fastness measured according to AATCC 61, 1A (40 ° C., 45 minutes, 0.37% soap solution) method, and dry cleaning fastness measured according to AATCC 132 (solvent: perchloroethylene, 30 ± 2 ° C., 30 minutes) method A denim fabric of at least one fourth fastness selected from the group consisting of:
The method of claim 1,

The colorant for the design formed on the transfer paper is a dye, the warp yarn of the denim fabric (warp yarn) is a denim fabric of natural or synthetic fibers that can accommodate the dye by thermal transfer printing method.
The method of claim 2,

The dye is a disperse dye, and the inclination of the denim fabric is made of polyester alone or polyester selected from cotton, rayon, acetate, wool and flax. Denim fabric with mixed or blended blended yarn or blended yarn.
The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein

The weft of the denim fabric is a pure cotton yarn or a denim fabric of white or dyed as a blended yarn or blended yarn blended or mixed with cotton and other fibers.
The method of claim 4, wherein

The other fabric blended or blended with the cotton is any one selected from the group consisting of polyester, polyurethane and nylon.
The method of claim 4, wherein

The warp yarn is a blended yarn blended polyester and cotton, the weft yarn denim fabric characterized in that the blended yarn blended cotton or polyester and cotton.
The method of claim 4, wherein

The warp yarn is a polyester yarn or a blended yarn blended with polyester, and the weft yarn is a core spun yarn spun with a segmented polyurethane (spandex) as a core yarn and surrounded by a cotton yarn. Denim fabric.
A denim fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7,

A denim product manufactured in any one form selected from the group consisting of clothing, hats, bags, wallets and shoes.
Aligning and feeding the warp wound on the beam to weave the denim fabric;

Stacking and supplying a transfer paper having a design printed on the upper surface of the inclined surface;

Heating and compressing the surface of the transfer paper to thermally transfer the design printed on the transfer paper onto an inclined phase; And

Including the step of weaving the denim fabric by weaving the warp with the weft,

Wash fastness measured according to AATCC 61, 1A (40 ° C., 45 minutes, 0.37% soap solution) method, and dry cleaning fastness measured according to AATCC 132 (solvent: perchloroethylene, 30 ± 2 ° C., 30 minutes) method The method of manufacturing denim fabric, characterized in that the at least one color fastness selected from the group consisting of four or more.
The method of claim 9,

The thermal transfer printing method of the denim fabric characterized in that it is carried out at a temperature of 200 ~ 250 ℃.
The method of claim 9,

The colorant for the design to be formed on the transfer paper is a dye, the warp yarn of the denim fabric (warp yarn) of the denim fabric, characterized in that made of natural or synthetic fibers that can accommodate the dye by thermal transfer printing method Way.
The method of claim 11,

The dye is a disperse dye, and the denim fabric is made of polyester alone, or a blended yarn mixed or blended with polyester selected from cotton, rayon, acetate, wool and flax. Or a method for producing a denim fabric characterized in that the blended yarn.
The method according to any one of claims 9 to 12,

The weft of the denim fabric is a pure cotton yarn or a method of producing a denim fabric, characterized in that the blended or blended cotton or other fibers blended or blended cotton or dyed white or dyed.
The method of claim 13,

The other fiber blended or blended with the cotton is selected from the group consisting of polyester, polyurethane and nylon.
The method of claim 13,

The warp yarn is a blended yarn blended with polyester and cotton, the weft yarn manufacturing method of denim fabric characterized in that the blended yarn blended cotton or polyester and cotton.
The method of claim 13,

The warp yarn is a polyester yarn or a blended yarn in which polyester and cotton are mixed, and the weft yarn is a core spun yarn spun with a segmented polyurethane (spandex) as a core yarn and surrounded by a cotton yarn. The manufacturing method of the denim fabric to make.
The method of claim 13,

The weft yarn is not dyed, and further comprises a post-dyeing process as a post-processing after the weaving process, wherein the post-dyeing process is to dye the cotton fibers present in the weft and the warp yarns.