WO2010021259A1 - Procédé de conception de pinces, dispositif de conception de pinces et programme de conception de pinces - Google Patents

Procédé de conception de pinces, dispositif de conception de pinces et programme de conception de pinces Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2010021259A1
WO2010021259A1 PCT/JP2009/064107 JP2009064107W WO2010021259A1 WO 2010021259 A1 WO2010021259 A1 WO 2010021259A1 JP 2009064107 W JP2009064107 W JP 2009064107W WO 2010021259 A1 WO2010021259 A1 WO 2010021259A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
dart
clothes
width
human body
body model
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2009/064107
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English (en)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
淳子 川崎
眞司 森本
秀憲 坪井
Original Assignee
株式会社島精機製作所
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
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Application filed by 株式会社島精機製作所 filed Critical 株式会社島精機製作所
Priority to EP09808195.3A priority Critical patent/EP2322047B1/fr
Priority to JP2010525660A priority patent/JP5414677B2/ja
Priority to CN200980132618.0A priority patent/CN102131414B/zh
Publication of WO2010021259A1 publication Critical patent/WO2010021259A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/007—Methods of drafting or marking-out patterns using computers

Definitions

  • This invention relates to the automation of dart design.
  • Darts are used for clothing such as skirts and suits.
  • the dart is designed by attaching the pattern paper, i.e., the tor, to the human body, i.e., the model of the human body, and then cutting or cutting the remainder of the dart.
  • the process of putting the pattern paper on the platform and correcting the pattern paper is called “twirk check” and requires skill. For this reason, dart design is done manually by skilled workers.
  • Patent Document 1 JP1996-325821A [0071]-[0073] states that the amount of darts can be estimated by grasping clothes on the design device. However, Patent Document 1 does not describe how dart design is performed.
  • the problem of the present invention is to automate the design of darts.
  • the present invention relates to a design method in which clothes are designed on a color monitor while three-dimensionally simulating the wearing state of clothes on a human body model and displaying an image obtained by the simulation on a color monitor.
  • a generation step for generating a plurality of positions on the garment for forming the dart;
  • a distance calculating step for determining the distance between the clothing and the human body model at the position where each dart is formed;
  • a circumference calculating step for obtaining a difference between the circumference of the clothes and the circumference of the human body model along a plurality of positions forming the dart; In order to determine the width of each dart so that the width of the dart increases as the distance between the clothes and the human body model at the position where each dart is formed increases, and the width of the dart increases as the difference in the circumference increases.
  • Width determination step To determine the length of each dart so that the dart is extended along the axial direction of the human body model, and the end point of the dart is the point where the distance between the clothes and the human body model is less than or equal to the predetermined value on the extension line of the dart
  • the length determination step of The dart is designed on the garment so that the design unit has the width determined in the width determination step at the position generated in the generation step and the end point is the point determined in the length determination step.
  • the present invention provides an apparatus including a simulation unit that three-dimensionally simulates the wearing state of clothes on a human body model, a color monitor that displays an image obtained by the simulation, and a design unit that designs clothes.
  • Generating means for generating a plurality of positions for forming darts on the clothes;
  • Distance calculating means for determining the distance between the clothes and the human body model at the position where each dart is formed;
  • a circumference calculating means for obtaining a difference between the circumference of the clothes and the circumference of the human body model along a plurality of positions forming the dart; In order to determine the width of each dart so that the width of the dart increases as the distance between the clothes and the human body model at the position where each dart is formed increases, and the width of the dart increases as the difference in the circumference increases.
  • Width determination means To determine the length of each dart so that the dart is extended along the axial direction of the human body model, and the end point of the dart is the point where the distance between the clothes and the human body model is less than or equal to the predetermined value on the extension line of the dart
  • the length determining means is provided, The dart is designed on the clothes so that the design unit has the width determined by the width determining unit at the position generated by the generating unit and the end point is the point determined by the length determining unit.
  • the present invention provides a computer system including a simulation unit that three-dimensionally simulates the wearing state of clothes on a human body model, a color monitor that displays an image obtained by the simulation, and a design unit that designs clothes.
  • the computer system Generating means for generating a plurality of positions for forming darts on the clothes; Distance calculating means for determining the distance between the clothes and the human body model at the position where each dart is formed; A circumference calculating means for obtaining a difference between the circumference of the clothes and the circumference of the human body model along a plurality of positions forming the dart; In order to determine the width of each dart so that the width of the dart increases as the distance between the clothes and the human body model at the position where each dart is formed increases, and the width of the dart increases as the difference in the circumference increases.
  • the dart having the design unit has a width determined by the width determination unit at the position generated by the generation unit and functions as a unit for designing the dart on the clothes so that the end point is the point determined by the length determination unit. In the design program.
  • the distance between the clothes and the human body model at the dart formation position is automatically obtained.
  • the difference between the circumference of the clothes and the circumference of the human body model is obtained, and the difference in circumference is distributed to each dart according to the distance from the position where the dart is formed to the human body model, and used as the width of the dart.
  • the dart is extended to a point where the clothes are almost in contact with the human body model, that is, a point where the distance between the clothes and the human body model is equal to or less than a predetermined value, and is set as the end point of the dart. Therefore, the width and length of the dart can be designed automatically.
  • the width of the dart is determined so that the clothes naturally touch the human body model, and the length of the dart is determined so that it ends at the point where the clothes naturally touch the human body model. Therefore, the dart can be designed so that the clothes fit the human body.
  • the description regarding the design method also applies to the design apparatus and the design program as it is, and the description regarding the design apparatus also applies to the design method and the program as it is.
  • the clothes may be made of fabric or knitted fabric.
  • the dart formation position is specified manually, for example, but when the number of darts is specified, the dart formation position may be automatically determined based on an empirical rule stored in a database or the like.
  • a certain amount of clearance that is, a gap
  • the distance between the two may be calculated, and a necessary gap may be subtracted from the calculated distance.
  • the distance is 0 and the clothes are in close contact with the human body model.
  • the distance obtained by subtracting a necessary gap in advance from the calculated distance between the clothes and the human body model may be used.
  • the distance is 0, and there is an appropriate gap between the clothes and the human body model. This also applies to the calculation of the difference in circumference between the clothing and the human body model. After obtaining the difference in circumference, the required clearance may be subtracted.
  • the difference in circumference is 0, and the clothing is the human body. Close contact with the model.
  • the difference in circumference may be obtained in advance so as to have a required clearance. In this case, the difference in circumference is 0 and there is an appropriate gap between the clothing and the human body model.
  • the distance between the clothes and the human body model is obtained at a plurality of positions on the extension line of the dart, and the width of the dart is increased as the obtained distance is increased. Determine the width of the dart. If it does in this way, when the distance of a human body model and clothes decreases linearly, it will become a linear dart. When the distance between the human body model and clothes changes instead of being linear, it becomes a curved dart. In each part of the dart, since the width of the dart changes according to the distance from the human body model, a dart that fits the human body can be obtained.
  • the dart formation position, the dart width and the dart length are determined for the left and right half of the garment, and the dart formation position, width and length obtained are determined by the left and right other garments.
  • Copy symmetrically Since the actual human body is almost right and left, designing darts for the left and right halves and copying them symmetrically to the other halves can reduce the amount of data processing in the dart design to about 1/2. Further, if the darts are designed from the beginning for each of the left and right, for example, the formation position, width, or length of the darts may not be symmetrical on the left and right. The reason why the dart formation position is not symmetrical on the left and right is that the dart formation position is input improperly in many cases.
  • Block diagram of the design device of the embodiment The figure which shows the design algorithm of the dart in the execution example It is a figure which shows the length (depth) of the dart in an Example, A) shows the length of the dart in the side view, and B) shows the length of the dart in the front view.
  • the figure which shows the clearance gap between the human body model and part in an Example The figure which shows the example where the width of the dart changes in a curve
  • the figure which shows the example where the width of the dart changes linearly The figure which shows the example which copies the design of the dart of one of right and left to the other
  • the figure shows the state of wearing the skirt pattern paper on the human body model, and the right side shows the cross section of the human body model and pattern at the waist
  • the figure which shows the wearing condition of the pattern paper which created the dart in the Example Diagram showing patterns before and after dart creation The figure which shows the various darts which are made with execution example
  • the design apparatus 2 comprises a computer system
  • 4 is a bus
  • 6 is a color monitor
  • 8 is a mouse
  • 10 is a keyboard
  • 12 is a color printer.
  • a trackball, a joystick, a stylus, or the like may be used.
  • 14 is a LAN interface
  • 16 is a removable memory such as a CD-ROM or USB memory
  • 18 is a scanner for reading design images.
  • the design apparatus 2 includes a CPU, a graphic unit, and the like (not shown), and realizes the part joining portion 24 to the design editing portion 39 by using these, the memory 20, the image memory 22, and the design program stored in the memory 20.
  • the parts joint section 24 joins parts such as a sleeve, a collar, a front body, a back body, a pocket, and a cuff of the clothes to form a shape of the clothes and stores pattern data of the clothes.
  • the 3D simulator 26 puts on the human body model stored in the human body model storage unit 30 with the virtual clothes generated by the part joint unit 24 and simulates the wearing result three-dimensionally. As a result, three-dimensional data representing the state in which the human body model is wearing virtual clothes is obtained.
  • the alignment unit 28 aligns the center of the clothes (point B in FIG. 4) and the center of the human body model (point A in FIG. 4) in the left-right direction.
  • the human body model storage unit 30 stores three-dimensional data of the human body model.
  • the human body model may be a general model that does not correspond to an individual person or may be based on an actual measurement value of the human body shape.
  • the dart placement unit 32 places darts on clothes.
  • a plurality of darts are arranged, for example, in one horizontal plane, for example, around the waist.
  • the gap processing unit 34 obtains the circumference of the clothing from the pattern data along the line where the dart is arranged, and obtains the difference from the circumference of the human body model. If the garment has a thickness, find the perimeter inside the garment. In order for the human body model to wear clothes, a certain amount of clearance is required. Considering the clearances d and f as parameters corresponding to the clearance, d is the clearance in the circumference, and f is the clearance of the distance from the inner surface of the clothing to the surface of the human body model.
  • the clearance processing unit 34 distributes the difference (S ⁇ d) obtained by subtracting the clearance d from the circumference difference S between the clothes and the human body model to each dart.
  • the same stitching as darts is performed at the stitching part between the front body and back body. This is not usually called darts, but the content of the process is the same as darts. Include in It is not necessary to specify the positions of the stitched portions of the front body and the back body.
  • the gap processing unit 34 obtains the distance between the inner surface of the clothes and the human body model from the 3D simulation result, and distributes the difference of the circumference S minus the clearance d to each dart so as to be proportional to the distance.
  • the distributed value is the width of the dart.
  • the gap processing unit 34 further extends along the axial direction of the human body model, that is, from the waist to the hip in the case of a skirt, and from the waist to the chest and hip in the case of a blouse or a jacket. Extend the dart towards the top, ie both up and down. Then, at a plurality of points on the extension line, the width of the dart is determined according to the distance between the clothes and the human body model. For example, the width of the dart obtained at the waist position is changed in proportion to the distance between the human body model and the clothes on the extension line. At this time, it is not necessary to obtain the difference in circumference on the extension line of the dart.
  • the difference in circumference between the clothes and the human body model and the distance between the human body model and clothes may be obtained at each point on the extension line of the dart, and the difference in circumference may be distributed to each dart.
  • the gap processing unit 34 measures the distance between the clothes and the human body model on the extension line of the dart, and sets the end point of the dart when the distance is less than f.
  • f is a constant common to each dart.
  • the dart shape creation unit 36 determines the shape of the dart using the dart starting point obtained by the dart placement unit 32, the dart width and the dart end point obtained by the gap processing unit 34. In this way, an isosceles triangular or curved dart shape is determined.
  • the arrangement of darts, clearance processing (dart width and length), and dart shape need only be processed on the left and right half of the garment, and the copy unit 38 symmetrically stores these data with respect to the other half of the garment. Copy to.
  • the design editing unit 39 changes the design data of the clothes and adds the dart to the design data.
  • reference numeral 40 in FIG. 3 denotes a clothing pattern, where the pattern means pattern data or pattern paper, and the data processing means pattern data.
  • Reference numeral 42 denotes a human body model.
  • FIG. 3A) shows the wearing state in a side view and B) in a front view.
  • ⁇ indicates the position (base point) of the dart. The dart is extended from this position in the direction of the arrow in the figure, and the end point of the dart is the point at which the clothes are in contact with the human body model. For this reason, the pattern 40 fits the human body model 42 at the end point of the dart.
  • the width of the dart is determined as shown in FIGS.
  • the subscript i indicates the dart number
  • Li indicates the distance from the inner circumference of the garment to the surface of the human body model. Since the human body model and the garment are symmetrical, The distance to the model is equal. Furthermore, when the center of the human body model is A and the center of the clothes is B, and these are shifted in the left-right direction, the center positions in the left-right direction are made to coincide with each other, assuming that there is a problem with the wearing simulation. Also, the lower side of FIG. 4 shows the front side, and the upper side shows the back side.
  • the circumference of the human body model is known, and the circumference of the inner circumference of the clothes can also be obtained from pattern data or 3D simulation data. Then, from these differences, a clearance d necessary for wearing the clothes is subtracted and distributed to the darts.
  • the circumference difference is S
  • the distance between the clothes and the human body model is Li
  • the clearance required for the circumference is d
  • the clearance necessary for the distance between the human body model and the clothes f
  • the dart is extended from the waist to the hip in the case of FIG. 3, and how the distance Li changes at a plurality of positions in the middle is obtained.
  • This situation is shown in FIG. 5 and FIG. 6, and the one-dot chain line slightly inside the pattern 40 indicates a clearance for the clearance.
  • the width of the dart is changed according to the obtained Li, a curved dart as shown in FIG. 5 or a linear dart as shown in FIG. 6 is obtained.
  • FIG. 7 shows this situation.
  • three dart formation positions P1 to P3 are designated for the left and right half of the pattern 40, and the distances L1 to L3 from the human body model and the circumference difference S are specified accordingly.
  • the S / 2 of 1/2 is obtained, the dart formation positions P1 ′ to P3 ′ are obtained for the remaining half body, and the widths L1 to L3 of the darts may be symmetrical.
  • FIG. 8 to 11 show examples of dart designs.
  • FIG. 8 shows a human body model and surrounding pattern paper (before dart formation), and the right side of the figure shows a human body model (thin line) and a pattern (thick line) in a horizontal section at the waist.
  • FIG. 9 shows a cross section of the human body model and the pattern paper at the hip position. Then, for example, in a cross-sectional display of the human body model and surrounding patterns at the upper right in FIG. Instead of specifying from the cross-sectional display, the position of the dart may be specified from the side view, front view, back view, etc. while slowly rotating the human body model and the pattern, for example. However, if the cross section is entered, the dart position can be entered more accurately.
  • the dart position may be input for one lap of clothes, but preferably the left and right half of the body is input. Since there is a certain amount of empirical rule at the position where the dart is provided, for example, only the number of darts may be input and arranged according to the empirical rule, for example, around the waist. When the darts are automatically arranged, the pattern is usually divided into two parts in the front and back, so a sewing allowance is required at the boundary between the front and back patterns, and a dart is also provided in this part. Then, other darts are arranged according to empirical rules at appropriate positions before and after.
  • FIG. 10 shows the wearing state of the pattern paper on which the dart is formed as in the embodiment, and the cross section of the pattern paper and the human body model at the waist position is shown on the right side of the figure.
  • the line running on the pattern paper from the waist downward represents the dart.
  • FIG. 11 shows the pattern before dart creation and the pattern after dart creation, and shows the front side (right side of the figure) and the back side (left side) of the skirt.
  • Reference numerals 51 to 55 and 51 ′ to 55 ′ are normal darts. These darts are arranged symmetrically, and 56 and 56 ′ are darts at the sewing position.
  • Darts can be applied not only to skirts, but also to jackets, dresses, and other various clothing, not only women's clothing, but also children's clothing and men's clothing.
  • the type of skirt is arbitrary.
  • 60 to 66 are examples of parts, where part 60 is the front body, part 61 is the back body, and part 62 is the left and right half of the front body.
  • the part 64 is the left and right half of the front half of the skirt, and the part 66 is a part that is sewn on the upper side of the half of the skirt 64.
  • Reference numerals 70 to 76 are darts. In the darts 70, 71 and 73, the darts are narrowed on both the upper and lower sides from the waist position.
  • the dart 72 is a dart for inflating the part 62 three-dimensionally at the chest.
  • the parts 66 and 64 are sewn so that the upper end of the dart 74 and the lower end of the dart 76 overlap.
  • FIG. 13 shows the determination of the dart shape for providing a three-dimensional bulge like the dart 72. Since the position of the bust top is known, the distance r from there to the left and right ends of the clothes is obtained. The dart 72 swells around the bust top, and h increases as the cutting angle ⁇ by the dart 72 increases. The height to be raised is h, and the dart cutting angle ⁇ is expressed in radians. If the garment has a conical shape around the bust top, the distance from the apex of the cone to the circumference is r, the height is h, and the circumference of the bottom of the cone is r ⁇ (2 ⁇ ). .
  • the other points are the same as those of the embodiment of FIGS. 1 to 11, and the dart 72 is, for example, symmetrical.
  • the following effects can be obtained. (1) Simply enter the dart formation position to automatically design the dart. (2) The width and length of the dart can also be automatically determined so that the clothes fit the human body model. (3) The end point of the dart will be the position where the clothes will almost fit the human body model. (4) Since the distance between the clothes and the human body model is obtained at each part on the extension line of the dart, the clothes and the human body model fit not only at the starting point and the ending point but also at each halfway position.

Abstract

L’invention désigne l’emplacement de formation de la pince à partir d’un moniteur et détermine, pour cet emplacement, la distance existant entre le vêtement et le modèle de corps humain, ainsi que le différentiel entre la circonférence du vêtement et la circonférence du modèle de corps humain. L’invention attribue un différentiel de circonférence à chaque pince en fonction de la distance avec le modèle de corps humain et désigne, comme point d’aboutissement d’une pince, un point tel que, le long de la ligne d’extension de la pince, la distance entre le vêtement et le modèle de corps humain est égale ou inférieure à la valeur prédéterminée. La conception de la pince s’effectue ainsi presque automatiquement.
PCT/JP2009/064107 2008-08-21 2009-08-10 Procédé de conception de pinces, dispositif de conception de pinces et programme de conception de pinces WO2010021259A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP09808195.3A EP2322047B1 (fr) 2008-08-21 2009-08-10 Procédé de conception de pinces, dispositif de conception de pinces et programme de conception de pinces
JP2010525660A JP5414677B2 (ja) 2008-08-21 2009-08-10 ダーツのデザイン方法とデザイン装置及びデザインプログラム
CN200980132618.0A CN102131414B (zh) 2008-08-21 2009-08-10 称身短缝的设计方法和设计装置

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JP2008-212352 2008-08-21
JP2008212352 2008-08-21

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WO2010021259A1 true WO2010021259A1 (fr) 2010-02-25

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EP (1) EP2322047B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP5414677B2 (fr)
CN (1) CN102131414B (fr)
WO (1) WO2010021259A1 (fr)

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CN107590302A (zh) * 2016-07-08 2018-01-16 达索系统公司 用于围绕化身安置图样的计算机实现的方法
CN111291431A (zh) * 2015-04-21 2020-06-16 艺能国际发展有限公司 一种产生三维全成型针织纸样的方法

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CN111291431A (zh) * 2015-04-21 2020-06-16 艺能国际发展有限公司 一种产生三维全成型针织纸样的方法
CN111291431B (zh) * 2015-04-21 2023-09-05 艺能国际发展有限公司 一种产生三维全成型针织纸样的方法
CN107590302A (zh) * 2016-07-08 2018-01-16 达索系统公司 用于围绕化身安置图样的计算机实现的方法
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CN107590302B (zh) * 2016-07-08 2023-10-31 达索系统公司 用于围绕化身安置图样的计算机实现的方法

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CN102131414B (zh) 2014-05-14
JP5414677B2 (ja) 2014-02-12
JPWO2010021259A1 (ja) 2012-01-26
CN102131414A (zh) 2011-07-20
EP2322047B1 (fr) 2015-01-21
EP2322047A4 (fr) 2014-02-19
EP2322047A1 (fr) 2011-05-18

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