WO2009109946A1 - Procédé de traitement cosmétique à base de polyphénols de fruits ou de légumes - Google Patents

Procédé de traitement cosmétique à base de polyphénols de fruits ou de légumes Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2009109946A1
WO2009109946A1 PCT/IB2009/050942 IB2009050942W WO2009109946A1 WO 2009109946 A1 WO2009109946 A1 WO 2009109946A1 IB 2009050942 W IB2009050942 W IB 2009050942W WO 2009109946 A1 WO2009109946 A1 WO 2009109946A1
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Prior art keywords
fruit
acid
polyphenol
sugar
composition
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PCT/IB2009/050942
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English (en)
Inventor
Jean-François Grollier
Laurence Garnier
Boudiaf Boussouira
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L'oreal
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Priority to EP09718321A priority Critical patent/EP2249793A1/fr
Publication of WO2009109946A1 publication Critical patent/WO2009109946A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/347—Phenols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, comprising the topical application to the said materials of at least one polyphenol in combination with at least one sugar, derived from fruit and/or vegetables.
  • the invention also relates to a corresponding cosmetic or dermato logical composition and to an associated cosmetic assembly.
  • Polyphenols are naturally present in large amount in the plant kingdom. As illustrations of plant varieties that are particularly rich in polyphenols, mention may be made especially of green tea, apple, lychee, grape and pine bark. Thus, 37 phenolic compounds, the most abundant of which are chlorogenic acid, procyanidins Bl and B2, epicatechin, phloretin, phloridzin (glycosyl derivative of phloretin) and p-coumaric acid, have been characterized in apple.
  • these polyphenols have particularly advantageous physiological properties, such as antioxidant, antimutagenic, antiallergic, anticancer and antidiabetic properties.
  • document FR 2 814 943 proposes a composition for colouring the skin and/or keratin materials, especially containing dye precursors of polyphenol type extracted from fruit such as apples, grapes or bananas, or from vegetables such as potatoes.
  • Document JP 2000-344 655 proposes to combine an extract of a plant (for example strawberry, apple, grape and their seeds, or beans) containing polyphenols with a parsley extract to obtain a cosmetic product for the skin that has improved antioxidant activity.
  • a plant for example strawberry, apple, grape and their seeds, or beans
  • parsley extract proposes to obtain a cosmetic product for the skin that has improved antioxidant activity.
  • Document FR 2 851 916 itself describes compositions for promoting the natural pigmentation of the skin or its integuments, containing catechol polyphenols used in the form of a plant extract.
  • polyphenols under consideration in these compositions of the prior art are generally used in a purified form, i.e. not combined with additional substances. Usually, these polyphenols are obtained by extraction of plants.
  • document EP 1 243 586 Bl proposes cosmetic compositions containing a dihydrochalcone-rich phenolic fraction obtained by extraction of ripe apples.
  • Document EP-A-O 657 169 Al also describes the production of a polyphenolic fraction for therapeutic purposes, obtained from apples, via steps of pressing and/or extraction and purification.
  • the polyphenolic fraction thus obtained is composed exclusively of polyphenolic compounds.
  • purified forms of polyphenols are also commercially available.
  • the present invention is also directed towards exploiting the advantageous properties of polyphenols in the cosmetic or dermatological field and more particularly for increasing their cosmetic or dermatological efficacy.
  • natural component means a component found in its native form in nature, forming part of the plant, animal, fossil or mineral kingdom, and which is not the result of an industrial treatment, as opposed to an artificial, manufactured, industrial or synthetic component.
  • cosmetic or dermatological compositions to be of reinforced ecological nature, in particular to have constituents that are, as far as possible, biorenewable raw materials.
  • biorenewable raw material means a raw material forming part of the plant or animal kingdom, which is infinitely renewable by simple plant or animal production.
  • biorenewable raw materials such as extracts of fruit or vegetables is not without additional problems, especially in terms of the galenical formulation and/or stability over time.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, comprising the topical application to the said materials of at least one cosmetic composition, which is free of polyphenol oxidase and which comprises at least one polyphenol in combination with at least one sugar, the said polyphenol and the said sugar being derived from fruit or vegetables, with the said polyphenol being present in a proportion of less than 75% by weight expressed as gallic acid equivalent relative to the weight of the said composition, and the presence of the said sugar being detectable in the said composition via acid hydrolysis.
  • at least one cosmetic composition which is free of polyphenol oxidase and which comprises at least one polyphenol in combination with at least one sugar, the said polyphenol and the said sugar being derived from fruit or vegetables, with the said polyphenol being present in a proportion of less than 75% by weight expressed as gallic acid equivalent relative to the weight of the said composition, and the presence of the said sugar being detectable in the said composition via acid hydrolysis.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, comprising the topical application to the said materials of at least one cosmetic composition, which is free of polyphenol oxidase and which comprises at least one polyphenol in combination with at least one sugar, the said polyphenol and the said sugar being derived from fruit or vegetables and being used in a polyphenol(s)/sugar(s) weight ratio of less than or equal to 5, in particular less than or equal to 3, advantageously less than or equal to 1 and even more advantageously less than or equal to 0.5.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, comprising the topical application to the said materials of at least one cosmetic composition, which is free of polyphenol oxidase, the said composition comprising at least one polyphenol in combination with at least one sugar, the said polyphenol and the said sugar being derived from fruit or vegetables, and the said sugar being present in a content of from 5% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the process of the invention may also comprise at least one fruit acid derived from fruit or vegetables.
  • Fruit acids are molecules present in many fruit or vegetables, such as apple, lemon, orange, redcurrant, almond, etc.
  • fruit acids In general, on account of their hygroscopicity, fruit acids have advantageous properties in terms of skin moisturization.
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids are generally used in cosmetic compositions, as agents for combating ageing of the skin, in particular by promoting desquamation, i.e. the removal of "dead" cells located at the surface of the horny layer of the epidermis.
  • Fruit acids may, for example, prove to be particularly useful for treating greasy skin, for which an excess of sebum leads to a slo wing-down of the desquamation of dead cells, resulting in thickening of the epidermis.
  • the cosmetic treatment process according to the invention may jointly comprise the oral administration of at least one polyphenol in combination or otherwise with at least one sugar.
  • the cosmetic treatment process may thus, for example, be accompanied by a topical application of a composition in accordance with the invention and of an oral administration of at least one polyphenol in combination or otherwise with at least one sugar.
  • the polyphenols administered orally may be used at doses of from 0.5 to 2000 mg/day, especially from 10 to 1000 mg/day and preferably from 20 to 300 mg/day.
  • the polyphenol in combination with the sugar and possibly also with a fruit acid under consideration according to the invention are used in the form of at least one extract of fruit and/or vegetables.
  • Such an extract may especially be obtained by extraction of a ground material of fruit and/or vegetables with a solvent medium suitable for the extraction of the sugars, polyphenols andpossibly fruit acids contained in this ground material, this extraction being performed under reaction conditions, for instance of temperature and stirring, that are suitable for the extraction and that are suitable for the inactivation of polyphenol oxidase.
  • the extract obtained after this extraction is directly usable in its native form, with the proviso that polyphenol oxidase, if present, is present in a form lacking in enzymatic activity.
  • the expression "free of polyphenol oxidase" means that the composition does not contain this enzyme in an active form. If it is naturally present in the extract of fruit or vegetables, source of polyphenol and sugar and possibly fruit acid, this extract undergoes a treatment, generally a heat treatment, intended to inactivate it, which generally leads to its degradation.
  • the process according to the invention consists in applying to keratin materials a composition that is free of polyphenol oxidase and that is totally or partly formed from at least one extract of fruit or vegetables simultaneously comprising at least one polyphenol in combination with at least one sugar and possibly also one fruit acid.
  • fruit and vegetables that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of apple, lychee, apricot, grape, persimmon, pear, banana, avocado, bean, blackcurrant, blueberry, blackberry, cherry, cranberry, redcurrant, elderberry, grapefruit, kiwi, lentil, bilberry, mango, cherry, ginger, nectarine, onion, orange, kale, artichoke, asparagus, red cabbage, chive, aubergine, garlic, potato, parsley, peach, plum, radish, quince, suede, spinach, strawberry, mandarin, tomato, beetroot, broccoli, carrot, cauliflower, celery, guava, sweet potato, raspberry, medlar, papaya, pomegranate, pea, rice, kumquat, passion fruit, prickly pear (Opuntia cactus),
  • Indian gooseberry buddha's hand, yuzu, citron, mikan, limequat, lemon and mexicani, and mixtures thereof.
  • these fruit and vegetables which are particularly advantageous for their overall content of polyphenol, sugars and possibly also of fruit acid, may, on the other hand, distinguish themselves from each other significantly, via their specific content of one or other of these active agents.
  • one fruit or vegetable may more particularly be selected over the others with regard to its high content of one of the compounds.
  • a composition according to the invention may use a mixture of extracts of fruit or vegetables, one of the extracts being most particularly advantageous for its high content of polyphenol and the other for its high content of sugar, and possibly with a third extract being particularly advantageous for its high content of fruit acid.
  • avocado, tomato, apple, banana, blackberry, blueberry, redcurrant, grape, kiwi, mango, orange, peach, pear, plum, raspberry and strawberry prove to be most particularly advantageous.
  • apple, pear, tomato and persimmon will be used.
  • vegetables that are rich in polyphenols and sugars artichoke, asparagus, broccoli, red cabbage, carrot, cauliflower, celery, chive, aubergine, garlic, onion, kale, potato, radish and spinach are most particularly suitable for use in the invention.
  • fruit peach, medlar, cherry, blackcurrant, kumquat, papaya, tomato, avocado, passion fruit, apple, pear, persimmon, prickly pear (Opuntia cactus), Indian gooseberry, buddha's hand, yuzu, citron, mikan, limequat, lemon and mexicani, and mixtures thereof, may be mentioned with regard to their overall content of polyphenol and/or fruit acid.
  • apple, pear, blackcurrant, persimmon, prickly pear, Indian gooseberry, cherry, kumquat, avocado and passion fruit, and more particularly apple will be used.
  • the fruit is (are) chosen from the fruit of plants of the Rosacea family, in particular of the genus Malus. According to one preferred embodiment, the fruit is chosen from apples chosen from Reinette de 1991, Rambour d'êt, Idared, Fuji, Fiorina, H.
  • the polyphenol and sugar are used in the form of at least one extract of fruit or vegetables simultaneously comprising at least one polyphenol and at least one sugar.
  • the composition comprises also a fruit acid
  • the polyphenol, sugar and fruit acid are used in the form of at least one extract of fruit or vegetables simultaneously comprising at least one polyphenol, at least one sugar and at least one fruit acid.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition of emulsion type containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium free of polyphenol oxidase, at least 5% by weight of a liquid fatty phase and at least one polyphenol in combination with at least one sugar and possibly also one fruit acid, the said polyphenol and the said sugar and possibly the said fruit acid being derived from fruit or vegetables.
  • the polyphenol and the sugar are used in a (polyphenol(s)/sugar(s)) weight ratio and/or in respective amounts as defined below.
  • the composition comprises also a fruit acid
  • the polyphenol and the fruit acid are used in a fruit acid/polyphenol weight ratio and/or in respective amounts as defined below.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic assembly using a composition in accordance with the invention.
  • Polyphenols are structurally characterized by the presence of several phenolic groups associated in more or less complex structures generally of high molecular weight. They are water-soluble compounds, with a molecular weight of between 500 and 3000 daltons.
  • the polyphenol family is commonly subdivided into subfamilies, which are the tannins, lignins, flavonoids and anthocyans, which are all derived from the assembly of simple phenolic units.
  • the polyphenols that are found in large amount in fruit and vegetables are the flavonoids.
  • flavonoids are very often found in the form of heterosides; one or more of their phenol functions are then glycosylated, the saccharides being glucose, galactose, rhamnose or arabinose.
  • Flavonoids are divided into several classes that differ by the degree of saturation of the aglycone heterocycle, its oxidation and its spatial conformation. These are flavonols, anthocyanidins (or anthocyanidols) and flavonols, with the anthocyanidins possibly being obtained either via reduction of flavonols or via oxidation of flavonols.
  • Flavonols correspond to formula (I) below:
  • polyphenols are naturally present in fruit and vegetables in monomeric or polymeric forms.
  • the monomeric forms are essentially catechin and epicatechin.
  • Certain compounds are derived from these molecules via various substitutions; these are the procyanidols (epicatechin derivatives) and the prodelphinidols (gallocatechin or epigallocatechin derivatives). They are the precursors of condensed tannins. Mention may also be made, as monomers, of phloretin, phloridzin (phloretin 20-glucoside), caffeic acid, chlorogenic acid, coumaric acid, gallic acid and quercetin, and derivatives thereof.
  • the oligomeric or polymeric forms comprise, for their part, the procyanidins (catechin oligomers or polymers) and the prodelphinidins (gallocatechin oligomers or polymers).
  • the polyphenol under consideration according to the invention combines at least one polymeric form and at least one monomeric form of polyphenol.
  • polyphenol is used to denote, without preference, a single polyphenol derivative or a mixture of several polyphenol derivatives as defined above, whether they are, without preference, in monomeric or polymeric form. Generally, it denotes a mixture of polyphenols that are different from each other.
  • composition in accordance with the invention advantageously has a polyphenol content of greater than or equal to 0.001%, in particular greater than or equal to 0.01% and especially greater than or equal to 0.05% expressed as gallic acid equivalent relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • a composition in accordance with the invention advantageously has a polyphenol content of less than or equal to 75% by weight and more advantageously less than or equal to 65% by weight expressed as gallic acid equivalent relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • a composition in accordance with the invention has a polyphenol content of less than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 30% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 20% by weight, or even less than or equal to 10% by weight, expressed as gallic acid equivalent relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • the reagent is constituted of a mixture of phosphotungstic acid (H3PW12O40) and phosphomolybdic acid (H3PM012O40). It is reduced, during the oxidation of phenols, to a mixture of blue oxides of tungsten and of molybdenum (Ribereau-Gayon, 1968). The coloration produced, whose maximum absorption is between 725 and 750 nm, is proportional to the amount of polyphenols present in the analysed plant extracts. Reading of the absorbance at 735 nm is performed by means of a spectrophotometer. The mean polyphenol concentration is expressed in ⁇ g of gallic acid equivalent.ml "1 , for example, if gallic acid is chosen as control. Reagents suitable for this measurement are available in commercial form.
  • polyphenols under consideration according to the invention are mixtures of polymeric forms and of monomeric forms of polyphenols.
  • these two forms are present in a composition according to the invention in a (polymeric polyphenol(s)/monomeric polyphenol(s)) weight ratio of greater than or equal to 9, preferably greater than or equal to 11 and even more advantageously greater than or equal to 14. Quantification of this ratio may be obtained by performing, in parallel to the evaluation of the total polyphenols according to the Folin method outlined above, an assay by reverse-phase liquid chromatography of the monomeric forms present in these total polyphenols coupled to a UV detection method and using one phenolic standard per category of compound, generally gallic acid. This method is outlined in detail in the examples below.
  • the polyphenol in accordance with the invention contains less than 75% by weight, in particular less than 30% and better still less than 15% by weight of phloridzin, expressed as gallic acid equivalent, relative to the total weight of polyphenol, in the cosmetic composition.
  • polyphenols are advantageously used in the context of the invention in the form of an extract of fruit and/or vegetables.
  • fruit and vegetables that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of apple, lychee, apricot, grape, persimmon, pear, banana, avocado, bean, blackcurrant, blueberry, blackberry, cherry, cranberry, redcurrant, elderberry, grapefruit, kiwi, lentil, bilberry, mango, nectarine, onion, garlic, parsley, chive, ginger, orange, peach, plum, radish, quince, suede, spinach, strawberry, mandarin, potato, artichoke, asparagus, aubergine, raspberry, tomato, beetroot, broccoli, red cabbage, carrot, cauliflower, kale, celery, guava, sweet potato, medlar, papaya, pomegranate, pea and rice.
  • the polyphenols are particularly present in fruit such as apple, pear, grape and cherry, with about 500 mg of polyphenol/ 100 g of raw fruit, and persimmon with about 1 g of polyphenol/ 100 g of raw fruit.
  • fruit such as apple, pear, grape and cherry
  • persimmon with about 1 g of polyphenol/ 100 g of raw fruit.
  • vegetables that are particularly rich in polyphenol, mention may be made more particularly of onion, garlic, kale, broccoli, parsley and celery.
  • Biorenewable sources that are particularly advantageous in terms of amount of polyphenols, sugars and also possibly of fruit acid advantageously belong to the Rosacea family, in particular of the genus Malus.
  • the Rosacea family includes more than two thousand species divided into over a hundred genera.
  • This cosmopolitan family of perennial herbaceous plants, shrubs or trees especially includes the subfamily Maloideae, to which belong the plants of the following genera: the genus Cydonia, whose fruit is the quince; the genus Fragaria, whose fruit is the strawberry; the genus Pyrus, whose fruit is the pear; the genus Mespilus, whose fruit is the medlar; the genus Prunus, whose fruit are the raspberry and the blackberry; and the genus Malus, whose fruit is the apple.
  • the subfamily Maloideae to which belong the plants of the following genera: the genus Cydonia, whose fruit is the quince; the genus Fragaria, whose fruit is the strawberry; the genus Pyrus, whose fruit is the pear; the genus Mespilus, whose fruit is the medlar; the genus Prunus, whose fruit are the raspberry and the blackberry; and the genus Malus, whose fruit is the apple
  • Varieties of pear that may especially be mentioned include the varieties Bergamot, Beurre, Conference, Doyenne, Fondante, President, Carisi, De Brie, De Sauge, Saussinet Gris and Triomphe.
  • Varieties of strawberry that may especially be mentioned include the varieties
  • Varieties of cherry that may especially be mentioned include the varieties Burlat, Cceur de pigeon, Montmorency, Napoleon, Noir d'Ecully and Bigarreau.
  • peach Varieties of peach that may especially be mentioned include Amsden peach, Charles Ingouf peach, grosse mignonne peach, Mayflower peach, vine peach, Red Haven peach, Savoie blood peach and vine blood peach.
  • Varieties of raspberry that may especially be mentioned include the varieties faro,supplementary, sweet Lulu, Sauron red, Anna F, Carmen love, heritage, Joan squire, Ruby and Purple royalty.
  • the polyphenols are used in the form of an apple extract. Apple trees form part of the genus Malus, which includes about 40 species of trees and shrubs, the most important of which is the common apple tree or Malus pumila which includes varieties of cider apples and varieties of dessert apples.
  • Apples that have reached a sufficient degree of ripeness i.e. compatible with consumption either in the form of fruit (dessert apples) or drink (cider apples) are most particularly suitable for use in the invention. These apples have an enriched polyphenol content compared with apples of a lesser degree of ripeness.
  • the variety is preferably Reinette de 1991, Rambour d'êt, Idared, Fuji, Fiorina, Querina, Pomme de Bucey, Croque, Calville Rouge d'Ete, Nationale, Reinette d'Orleans, principal France, quince apple, Colapuy, Akane, Rambour d'Ete, Charden, Reinette Doree de Paris, Rambour d'Hiver, Pommate d'Ervy, Reinette pepin Baumann, Gala, Pomme Cloche, Estival, Jersey Mac, The Congress, Summered, Canada grey Reinette Bio, Calville du Roi, Benedictin, Judeline, Winter Banana, CuI d'Oison, Chataignier, Melrose, Api Etoile, strawberry apple, Avrolles, Limousine, Signe Tillish, Grand Alexandre, grape apple, Reinette Clochard, Doux Amer, Citron d'Hiver, Teint Frais, Cusset, Reinette d'
  • the apples selected as the source of polyphenol(s) having a (polymeric polyphenol(s)/monomeric polyphenol(s)) weight ratio of greater than or equal to 9 are the varieties Fiorina, Reinette d'Orleans,
  • the variety Idared is used.
  • the variety Fuji is used.
  • the variety Fiorina is used.
  • the variety Estival is used.
  • the preparation of the fruit and/or vegetable extracts that are suitable for use in the invention proceeds according to conventional techniques and generally involve a step of pressing followed by a step of extraction especially as described in the document EP 0 657 169.
  • the extraction methods clearly fall within the competence of a person skilled in the art. In general, they use an extraction solvent that is, of course, chosen for its ability to extract the polyphenols, sugars and possibly also fruit acids contained in the fruit or vegetables under consideration.
  • This extraction solvent may be a polar solvent, in particular an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solvent formed by mixing water with at least one solvent such as methanol or ethanol.
  • a polar solvent in particular an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solvent formed by mixing water with at least one solvent such as methanol or ethanol.
  • the type of extraction will be adapted to the starting raw material.
  • the types of solvent used are: alcoholic solvent (methanol or ethanol) or aqueous-alcoholic solvent (methano I/water (50/50) or ethanol/water (50/50)).
  • the extract may be obtained by extracting the whole fruit or vegetable or selective extraction of at least one of its components such as the skin, the pulp, the seeds and mixtures thereof.
  • the extract is derived from extraction of the whole fruit.
  • the extract under consideration according to the invention may undergo an additional treatment intended to inactivate the enzymes naturally present in the fruit or vegetable, in particular polyphenol oxidase, which is responsible for the browning naturally observed on the flesh of a fruit or vegetable in contact with the air.
  • an additional treatment intended to inactivate the enzymes naturally present in the fruit or vegetable, in particular polyphenol oxidase, which is responsible for the browning naturally observed on the flesh of a fruit or vegetable in contact with the air.
  • One solution consists in cooking or pasteurizing the extract at the end of the extraction, heat having the effect of breaking the molecular bonds that give the enzymes their form. A short exposure to temperatures of 70 to 90 0 C generally suffices to deactivate the enzymes.
  • Another solution consists in lowering the pH of the extract.
  • the extract, source of polyphenol, or the composition in accordance with the invention may also be characterized in terms of antioxidant activity, especially according to the ORAC method (abbreviation for Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity).
  • ORAC method abbreviation for Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity. This method is based on the capacity of antioxidants to inhibit the degradation of a model substrate, fluorescein, induced by a radical initiator, AAHP (2,2'-azobis(2- amidinopropane) dihydrochloride).
  • the degradation of the fluorescein is monitored by measuring the decrease in the native fluorescence. Such a test is described in greater detail in the examples below.
  • the ORAC antioxidant activity of the extract in accordance with the invention is greater than 4 ⁇ mol of Trolox equivalent per g of extract, and the ORAC antioxidant activity of the composition according to the invention is greater than 0.1 ⁇ mol of equivalent/g of composition.
  • the fruit and vegetables whose total antioxidant capacity is particularly large are especially apple, grape, cherry, persimmon, artichoke, asparagus, avocado, blackberry, blueberry, broccoli, red cabbage, chive, cranberry, garlic, ginger, redcurrant, mango, onion, orange, peach, pear, plum, potato, radish, raspberry, spinach, strawberry and tomato.
  • the polyphenols are used in the context of the present invention in combination with at least one sugar.
  • the sugar(s) as defined hereinbelow may or may not be present in the extract containing the polyphenols.
  • the sugar(s) as defined below are present in the same fruit or vegetable extract containing the polyphenols.
  • the polyphenols and/or the sugars used in the context of the present invention are derived from apples and/or pears.
  • the polyphenols and sugars may also originate from several different sources, in order in particular to be able to compensate for the deficit of one of the polyphenol or sugar compounds in a fruit or vegetable, via another fruit or vegetable that is rich in this compound.
  • Sugars or carbohydrates are conventionally separated into two categories depending on their size. Simple sugars (small molecules composed of one or two carbohydrate units) and complex sugars (long chains composed of several carbohydrate units) are thus distinguished.
  • simple sugars small molecules composed of one or two carbohydrate units
  • complex sugars long chains composed of several carbohydrate units
  • the simple sugars are glucose, sucrose, fructose and sorbitol.
  • sucrose covers, without preference, a single sugar or a mixture of sugars, whether they are, without preference, simple or complex.
  • the sugars are also derived from fruit or vegetables in the context of the present invention.
  • the sugars are used in the context of the present invention in the form of a fruit and/or vegetable extract.
  • Simple or complex sugars are naturally present in the majority of fruit and vegetables.
  • fruit and vegetables such as garlic, banana, potato, grape, persimmon, cherry, mango, apple, pear, plum, blackberry, lychee, apricot, kiwi, blueberry, ginger, bean, orange, peach, red beetroot, artichoke, onion, strawberry, carrot, quince, raspberry, redcurrant, aubergine, cauliflower, asparagus, radish and tomato prove to be most particularly rich in sugars.
  • the composition in accordance with the invention contains at least one simple sugar derived from fruit or vegetables.
  • the composition in accordance with the invention contains at least one simple sugar and at least one complex sugar derived from fruit or vegetables.
  • the sources rich in simple sugars are apple, pear, persimmon and apricot, and the sources rich in complex sugars are pea, garlic, potato and tomato.
  • This method may consist in characterizing the formation of 5- (hydroxymethyl)furfural produced by acid hydrolysis of the sugar.
  • sugars may also be quantified in the extract via conventional methods, for instance high-performance ionic chromatography coupled to amperometric detection, and more particularly the method described in the examples given hereinbelow, which allows glucose, fructose, lactose and sucrose to be simultaneously assayed.
  • polyphenol and sugar combination is advantageously used in the context of the present invention in a (polypheno I/sugar) weight ratio of less than or equal to 3, in particular less than or equal to 1 and in particular less than or equal to 0.5.
  • the sugar is present at more than 50% by weight and advantageously from 60% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of sugar and polyphenol.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise a sugar content of greater than or equal to 6%, better still greater than or equal to 8%, even more advantageously greater than or equal to 12% and particularly greater than or equal to 15% relative to its total weight.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise besides the association of at least one polyphenol with at least one sugar, at least one fruit acid.
  • the fruit acid(s) as defined hereinbelow may or may not be present in the extract containing the polyphenols and possibly also the sugars.
  • the fruit acid(s) as defined hereinbelow is (are) present in the same fruit or vegetable extract containing the polyphenols and possibly also the sugars.
  • fruit and vegetables that are particularly rich in fruit acid and in polyphenol, mention may be made of apple, pear, blackcurrant, kumquat, persimmon, kaffir lime, yuzu, limequat, lemon, mexicani, pomegranate, peach, cherry, medlar, avocado, Indian gooseberry, broccoli and passion fruit.
  • the polyphenols and/or fruit acids used in the context of the present invention are obtained from apples.
  • the polyphenols, sugars and fruit acids may also be derived from several different sources, in order in particular to be able to compensate for the deficiency of one of the polyphenol, sugar or fruit acid compounds in a fruit or vegetable, via another fruit or vegetable that is rich in this compound.
  • fruit acid denotes any acidic compound naturally present in a fruit.
  • hydroxy acids are more particularly hydroxy acids, in particular ⁇ -hydroxy acids, and more particularly in the L form.
  • Representatives of these acids that may especially be mentioned include L- tartaric acid, malic acid, quinic acid, shikimic acid, citric acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, suberic acid, gly colic acid, glutaric acid, acetic acid and malonic acid.
  • it is malic acid, in particular L-malic acid.
  • peach medlar, cherry, blackcurrant, kumquat, papaya, tomato, pomegranate, broccoli, Indian gooseberry, persimmon, kaffir lime, yuzu, mexicani, limequat, lemon, avocado, passion fruit, apple and pear.
  • the fruit acid is used in the form of an apple extract.
  • the term "fruit acid” is used to denote, without preference, a single fruit acid or a mixture of several fruit acids as defined above. It is possible to quantify the fruit acid content in the extract via conventional methods, for instance high-performance liquid chromatography by exclusion coupled to a UV diode array detector, as described in the examples given below.
  • Malic acid which is the fruit acid predominantly present in fruit and vegetables, may also be specifically quantified in the extract via an enzymatic method, as described in the examples below, using a characterization by visible spectrophotometry, first involving an enzymatic oxidation of the L-malic acid with L-malate dehydrogenase.
  • the fruit acid is present in a composition of the invention in an amount of greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.07% to 20% and more particularly from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • thepolyphenols and the fruit acids are advantageously used in the context of the present invention in a fruit acid/polyphenol weight ratio of greater than or equal to 0.02, advantageously greater than or equal to 0.3, even more advantageously greater than 0.4 and better still greater than or equal to 1.
  • the fruit and/or vegetables such as those mentioned previously naturally contain vitamins, which it may also be advantageous to exploit with the polyphenols, sugars and possibly also with the fruit acids.
  • another embodiment may consist in using, in a composition intended for a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, at least one polyphenol in combination with at least one vitamin, both being derived from fruit and/or vegetables.
  • vitamins are separated into two groups: water-soluble vitamins and liposoluble vitamins.
  • water-soluble vitamins include vitamin Bl (thiamine), vitamin B2 (riboflavin), vitamin B3 (nicotinamide), vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid), vitamin B6 (pyridoxine), vitamin B8 (biotin), vitamin B9 (folic acid), vitamin B 12 (cobalamin), vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and vitamin H.
  • vitamin Bl thiamine
  • vitamin B2 riboflavin
  • vitamin B3 nicotinamide
  • vitamin B5 pantothenic acid
  • vitamin B6 pyridoxine
  • vitamin B8 biotin
  • vitamin B9 folic acid
  • vitamin B 12 cobalamin
  • vitamin C ascorbic acid
  • vitamin H vitamin H.
  • liposoluble vitamins they may be vitamin A (retinol), vitamin D
  • calcipherol calcipherol
  • vitamin E tocopherol
  • vitamin Kl phytoquinone
  • vitamin K2 menaquinone
  • apricot apricot, beet, nectarine, Swiss chard, chicory, courgette, spinach, lettuce, lamb's lettuce, mange-tout, sorrel, parsley and dandelion.
  • fruit and vegetables that are particularly rich in vitamin Bl
  • fruit and vegetables that are particularly rich in vitamin C
  • nectarine and coconut Among the fruit and vegetables that prove to be rich in D vitamins, mention may be made of nectarine and coconut. Among the fruit and vegetables that prove to be rich in E vitamins, mention may be made of almond, nectarine, cress, green bean, dried bean, lettuce, lentil, mange- tout, hazelnut, walnut, fresh pea and dried pea.
  • compositions according to the invention are cosmetic or dermatological compositions. They are preferably cosmetic compositions.
  • the compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, especially cosmetic treatments for the skin, including the scalp, the hair, the nails and/or mucous membranes, in particular for caring for, cleansing and/or making up and/or sun-protecting the skin and/or mucous membranes.
  • compositions according to the invention may be cosmetic makeup compositions of the type such as foundations, makeup rouge, eyeshadow, concealer products or blusher, or alternatively a body makeup product or skin colouring product or cosmetic care and/or cleansing compositions especially for the skin, for instance a composition for protecting, treating or caring for the face or the body.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include day creams, night creams, makeup- removing creams, antisun compositions, protective or care body milks, after-sun milks, skincare lotions, gels or mousses, artificial tanning compositions and aftershave compositions.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a non-toxic medium that can be applied to human keratin materials, which is of pleasant appearance, odour and feel.
  • a physiologically acceptable medium i.e. a non-toxic medium that can be applied to human keratin materials, which is of pleasant appearance, odour and feel.
  • They may be in any galenical form conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions or multiple emulsions (triple: W/O/W or 0/W/O), aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using polymer particles such as spheres and capsules, or lipid vesicles of ionic and/or nonionic type (liposomes, niosome
  • composition of emulsion type containing at least 5% by weight, in particular at least 10% by weight or even advantageously from 15% to 60% by weight and especially from 20% to 50% by weight of a liquid fatty phase.
  • the fatty or oily phase when it is present, may contain oils, pasty fatty substances, waxes, silicone resins or silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oils may be volatile or non- volatile and may be, for example, hydrocarbon- based oils especially of animal, mineral or plant origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils or fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • the aqueous phase may comprise water and/or at least one water-miscible organic solvent (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one adjuvant chosen from cosmetic or dermatological active agents, preserving agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, nonionic, anionic or cationic surfactants, antioxidants, salts, fragrances, fillers, pigments, UV-screening agents, odour absorbers and dyestuffs, and mixtures thereof.
  • adjuvant chosen from cosmetic or dermatological active agents, preserving agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, nonionic, anionic or cationic surfactants, antioxidants, salts, fragrances, fillers, pigments, UV-screening agents, odour absorbers and dyestuffs, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic or dermato logical active agent may be chosen especially from moisturizers, desquamating agents, agents for improving the barrier function, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermo-decontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation, agents for stimulating fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation and/or keratinocyte differentiation, agents for promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, NO-synthase inhibitors, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists, agents for increasing the activity of the sebaceous glands, agents for stimulating the energy metabolism of cells, tensioning agents, lipo -restructuring agents, slimming agents, agents for promoting the cutaneous capillary circulation, calmatives and/or anti- irritants, sebo- regulators or anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringents, cicatrizing agents, anti-inflammatory agents and antia
  • Natural adjuvants in particular natural cosmetic or dermatological active agents, even more advantageously biorenewable adjuvants and in particular biorenewable active agents, are particularly preferred.
  • the amounts of these various ingredients are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, for example from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological composition and from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the combination of the polyphenol with at least one sugar and possibly also with one fruit acid under consideration according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising:
  • the container may be in any suitable form. It may especially be in the form of a bottle, a tube, ajar, a case, a can, a sachet or a box.
  • the closing member may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid, a cover, a tear-off strip or a cap, especially of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap articulated on the body. It may also be in the form of a member ensuring the selective closure of the container, especially a pump, a valve or a clapper.
  • the container may be combined with an applicator.
  • the applicator may be in the form of a fine brush, as described, for example, in patent FR 2 722 380.
  • the applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or of elastomer, a felt or a spatula.
  • the applicator may be free (tuft or sponge) or securely fastened to a rod borne by the closing member, as described, for example, in patent US 5 492 426.
  • the applicator may be securely fastened to the container, as described, for example, in patent FR 2 761 959.
  • composition according to the invention may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.
  • the composition may be arranged on an impregnated support, especially in the form of a wipe or a pad, and arranged (individually or in plurality) in a box or in a sachet.
  • an impregnated support especially in the form of a wipe or a pad, and arranged (individually or in plurality) in a box or in a sachet.
  • Such a support incorporating the product is described, for example, in patent application WO 01/03538.
  • the closing member may be coupled to the container by screwing.
  • the coupling between the closing member and the container is done other than by screwing, especially via a bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening, gripping, welding, bonding or by magnetic attraction.
  • click- fastening in particular means any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, especially of the closing member, followed by return to the elastically unconstrained position of the said portion after the crossing of the bead or cord.
  • the container may be at least partially made of thermoplastic material.
  • thermoplastic materials examples include polypropylene or polyethylene.
  • the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, especially glass or metal (or alloy).
  • the container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, especially in the form of a tube or a tubular bottle.
  • the container may comprise means for initiating or facilitating the distribution of the composition.
  • the container may have deformable walls so as to allow the composition to exit in response to a positive pressure inside the container, this positive pressure being caused by elastic (or non-elastic) squeezing of the walls of the container.
  • the container may consist of a carton with a base delimiting at least one housing containing the composition, and a lid, especially articulated on the base, and capable of at least partially covering the said base.
  • a carton is described, for example, in patent application WO 03/018423 or in patent FR 2 791 042.
  • the container may be equipped with a drainer arranged in the region of the aperture of the container. Such a drainer makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod to which it may be securely fastened. Such a drainer is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.
  • the assembly may comprise:
  • composition B conditioned separately from composition A, comprising at least one additional cosmetic or dermatological active agent.
  • compositions A and B may be conditioned separately in two compartments, formed either by two separate containers, or in a single device.
  • the said polyphenol, the said sugar and possibly also the fruit acid are present in the said composition A in the form of a single crude extract of fruit or vegetable naturally containing them.
  • single device means a device via which the two compartments are integrally attached to each other. Such a device may be obtained via a process of moulding two compartments as a single component, especially made of a thermoplastic material. It may also result from any form of assembling, especially by bonding, welding or other click- fastening.
  • the two containers are independent of each other.
  • Such containers may be in various forms. They may especially be tubes, bottles or drums.
  • One and/or the other of the containers may be mounted with a manually- actuated pump on which is mounted a push-button for actuating the pump and dispensing the composition via at least one dispensing orifice.
  • one and/or the other of the containers is pressurized, especially by means of a propellant, in particular a propellant gas.
  • the container(s) is (are) equipped with a valve on which is mounted a push-button equipped with a nozzle or any other diffusion means for dispensing the product.
  • the propellant may be in a mixture with the composition to be dispensed or separated, especially via a piston that can slide inside the container, or via the flexible walls of a bag inside which the composition is placed.
  • the containers may be made of various materials: plastic, glass or metal.
  • the two compartments are formed from two concentric compartments formed inside a tube, and mounted thereon is a pump with no air reuptake, and equipped with a push-button with one or two dispensing orifices.
  • a piston Provided inside the tube is a piston that rises in the direction of the pump as and when the compositions are withdrawn from inside the containers.
  • Such dispensing modes are especially used for dispensing toothpastes.
  • an appropriate specimen mass of the whole fruit or vegetable in the form of quarters is ground so as to form a paste, which is then mixed homogeneously with Fontainebleau sand, and the samples obtained are then successively introduced into an ASE 200® extractor sold by the company Dionex.
  • the ASE 200® is an automated system for extracting organic compounds, which accelerates the traditional extraction processes.
  • the extraction solvent used is an
  • MeOH/water mixture at a pressure of 1000 psi applied to the extraction cell containing the sample, to maintain the heated solvent in liquid form. The operation is repeated three times. At the end of the extraction, a volume of 45 ml of fruit or vegetable extract and of extraction solvent is recovered, ready for analysis.
  • This method makes it possible to perform the assay of total polyphenols, i.e. in polymeric and monomeric form, via visible spectrometry at 620 nm using the Folin- Ciocalteu reagent (Ref. 9001, Merck).
  • This reagent is constituted of a mixture of phosphotungstic acid and phosphomolybdic acid, which is reduced during the oxidation of phenols to a mixture of blue oxides of tungsten and of molybdenum.
  • the intensity of the colour developed is proportional to the content of phenol in the compounds present in the analysed extract.
  • Assay of the main constituent monomeric polyphenols of each extract is performed by reverse-phase liquid chromatography on an ACE C 18 HL, sold by ATI, coupled to a UV-visible diode array detector between 250 and 400 nm.
  • the identification and quantification were performed on the fruit or vegetable extracts described previously, by external calibration, the standards being phloridzin and chlorogenic acid.
  • the assayed polyphenols are chlorogenic acid, phloridzin, phloretin, catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, fumaric acid, quercetin and the glycosyl derivatives thereof.
  • quantification of this ratio may be obtained by performing, in parallel to the evaluation of the total polyphenols according to the Folin method outlined above, an assay by reverse-phase liquid chromatography of the monomeric forms present in these total polyphenols coupled to a UV detection method using one phenolic standard per category of compound, generally gallic acid.
  • Chlorogenic acid x 0.69 Gallic acid
  • Phloridzin x 0.49 Gallic acid
  • Quercetin x 0.93 Gallic acid.
  • R - 1 GaUiC - 1 GaUiC
  • Trolox® are used to obtain a reference curve. The curves produced with the samples are then compared with this curve.
  • this peak is present, in particular for apples.
  • the presence of 5-ethoxymethylfurfural may also be revealed with a kit for the colorimetric assay (coloration from pale yellow to violet-red) of 5HMF commercially available from Merck (hydroxymethylfurfural tests 1.17952.001) and used in the agrifood industry, with the proviso of neutralizing the highly acidic medium and of diluting the highly alcoholic medium used in the sugar hydrolysis.
  • This neutralization performed using a sodium acetate buffer makes it possible to adjust the pH to a value of between 4.5-5, which is compatible with the manufacturer's recommendations.
  • the sugar hydrolysis solution is diluted five-fold to bring the HCl concentration to 0.24 M and the ethanol content to 16%.
  • a second twofold dilution of the solution thus obtained is then performed with a 0.5 M sodium acetate solution.
  • a solution whose pH is 4.7 and whose alcohol content is 8%, which are compatible with the conditions of use of the kit described in the instructions for use supplied by the company Merck, is thus finally obtained.
  • Assay of the constituent simple sugars of each extract is performed by ionic chromatography on a Carbopac® PlO column sold by Dionex, coupled to an amperometric detector integrated with a potential wave.
  • the identification and quantification of the sugars are performed by external calibration, the standards being glucose, fructose and sucrose.
  • the tank is filled with Milli-Q water.
  • the assembly is degassed with helium for at least 15 minutes.
  • 2.9 ml of sodium hydroxide per litre of water NaOH Fisher S/4930/05 at 46%) are added and the assembly is degassed for about 15 minutes before being placed under pressure.
  • Calibration solutions at 16 and 40 ⁇ g/ml are prepared as follows: 20.0 mg [50.0 mg] of each standard are placed in a 50 ml graduated flask. The volume is made up with water or the eluent, and the whole is subjected to mechanical stirring until dissolution is complete. 2.0 mm are taken therefrom and placed in a 100 ml graduated flask. The volume is adjusted to 100 ml with water. This solution is filtered through a Pall-Gelman GxF/GHP 0.45 ⁇ m or equivalent.
  • the calibration curves are plotted, placing the values of the areas obtained on the chromatograms of the calibration solutions on the y-axis, and the concentrations (in mg/ml) in the calibration solutions on the x-axis.
  • A y-axis at the origin of the calibration curve.
  • B slope of the calibration curve.
  • the y-axis at the origin A is equal to 0 if the curve is forced by zero).
  • the (polypheno I/sugar) weight ratio of each variety may thus be calculated from the results obtained according to the methods described above in 1.2.1. i) for the total polyphenols and in 1.2.3. ii) for the sugars.
  • Ref. UM5044/009 coupled to a UV diode array detector of the Waters 2996 type between 190 and 250 nm.
  • the eluent is used is a 5 mM sulfuric acid solution.
  • the identification and quantification were performed on the fruit and vegetable extracts obtained previously in 1.1., the standards used being malic acid solutions of 2 ⁇ g/ml to 400 ⁇ g/ml.
  • reaction ⁇ L-malic acid (L-malate) is oxidized to oxaloacetate via L-malate dehydrogenase (L-MDH) (reaction ⁇ ).
  • L-MDH L-malate dehydrogenase
  • Removal of the oxaloacetate from the reaction medium is performed via the transformation of the oxaloacetate to L-aspartate (reaction ⁇ ) via glutamate oxaloacetate transaminase (GOT) in the presence of L-glutamate.
  • NADH measured by the increase in absorbance at a wavelength of 340 nm
  • This method may be performed especially with the kit sold under the product code
  • Phases Al and Bl are heated to 65 0 C.
  • Phase Bl is poured into phase Al with high shear.
  • the mixture is stirred vigorously for a few minutes and then cooled to 40 0 C.
  • phase C is introduced.
  • the resulting mixture is cooled to room temperature and phase D is introduced to finish.
  • Example 2 * The 45 ml of apple extract and of extraction solvent obtained in Example 1 are used, for which the original MeOH/water solvent mixture is replaced with water.
  • Phase Bl is mixed in the main tank.
  • Phase Al is mixed in an additional tank.
  • Phase Bl is poured into phase Al with high shear at room temperature. The mixture is stirred with high shear for a few minutes and phase C is then introduced, with continued stirring for 15 minutes.
  • Example 2 * The 45 ml of apple extract and of extraction solvent obtained in Example 1 are used, for which the original MeOH/water solvent mixture is replaced with water.
  • Phases Al and Bl are heated to 65°C. Phase Bl is poured into phase Al with high shear. The mixture is stirred vigorously for a few minutes and then cooled to 40 0 C. Phases Cl, C2 and C3 are then introduced. The mixture is cooled to room temperature and phase D is introduced.
  • Example 2 * The 45 ml of apple extract and of extraction solvent obtained in Example 1 are used, for which the original MeOH/water solvent mixture is replaced with water.
  • the lipid phase is mixed in a tank.
  • the aqueous phase is mixed in an additional tank.
  • the lipid phase is poured into the aqueous phase with high shear at room temperature. Stirring at high shear is maintained for a few minutes.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé cosmétique de traitement de matériaux kératiniques, qui comprend l'application topique auxdits matériaux d'au moins une composition cosmétique, qui est dépourvue de polyphénol oxydase et qui comprend au moins un polyphénol en combinaison avec au moins un sucre et éventuellement aussi un acide de fruit, ledit polyphénol, ledit sucre et ledit éventuel acide de fruit étant dérivés de fruits ou de légumes.
PCT/IB2009/050942 2008-03-07 2009-03-06 Procédé de traitement cosmétique à base de polyphénols de fruits ou de légumes WO2009109946A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

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EP09718321A EP2249793A1 (fr) 2008-03-07 2009-03-06 Procédé de traitement cosmétique à base de polyphénols de fruits ou de légumes

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

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FR0851509A FR2928263B1 (fr) 2008-03-07 2008-03-07 Procede de traitement cosmetique a base de polyphenols de fruits ou de legumes
FR0851509 2008-03-07
US3702208P 2008-03-17 2008-03-17
US61/037,022 2008-03-17

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WO2012092389A3 (fr) * 2010-12-28 2012-11-01 Mary Kay Inc. Composition de régulation du sébum et anti-acné
US8318222B2 (en) 2010-02-19 2012-11-27 Mary Kay, Inc. Topical skin care formulation
US8877259B2 (en) 2012-02-09 2014-11-04 Mary Kay Inc. Cosmetic formulation
US9402794B2 (en) 2011-12-07 2016-08-02 Mary Kay Inc. Topical skin care formulation
US10300009B2 (en) 2015-12-18 2019-05-28 Mary Kay Inc. Topical cosmetic compositions

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FR2951939B1 (fr) * 2009-10-30 2012-01-06 Oreal Utilisation d'un extrait de fragaria pour lutter contre la canitie
FR2969496B1 (fr) * 2010-12-22 2013-11-08 Expanscience Lab Extrait de pulpe et/ou de peau d'avocat riche en polyphenols et compositions cosmetiques, dermatologiques et nutraceutiques le comprenant
IT201700114744A1 (it) * 2017-10-11 2019-04-11 Cristina Chiuso Formulazione polifenolica per la protezione di pelle e capelli
FR3117361B1 (fr) * 2020-12-15 2023-05-26 Oreal Procédé de maquillage des matières kératiniques appliquant une couche de revêtement formée par interaction d’un polyphénol avec un composé à liaisons hydrogène et une couche de maquillage
FR3117358B1 (fr) * 2020-12-15 2023-04-28 Oreal Procédé de revêtement cosmétique avec une composition comprenant un produit préformé par interaction d’un polyphénol avec un composé à liaisons hydrogène
FR3117357B1 (fr) * 2020-12-15 2023-05-26 Oreal Procédé de revêtement des matières kératiniques consistant à appliquer un agent de revêtement formé par liaisons hydrogène d’un polyphénol avec un composé apte à réagir avec celui-ci

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US10238708B2 (en) 2010-12-28 2019-03-26 Mary Kay Inc. Sebum control and anti-acne composition
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CN103458908B (zh) * 2010-12-28 2015-07-01 玫琳凯有限公司 皮脂控制和抗痤疮组合物
US11058739B2 (en) 2010-12-28 2021-07-13 Mary Kay Inc. Sebum control and anti-acne composition
US9402794B2 (en) 2011-12-07 2016-08-02 Mary Kay Inc. Topical skin care formulation
US8877259B2 (en) 2012-02-09 2014-11-04 Mary Kay Inc. Cosmetic formulation
US9283171B2 (en) 2012-02-09 2016-03-15 Mary Kay Inc. Cosmetic formulation
US10300009B2 (en) 2015-12-18 2019-05-28 Mary Kay Inc. Topical cosmetic compositions
US10870022B2 (en) 2015-12-18 2020-12-22 Mary Kay Inc. Topical cosmetic compositions
US11419815B2 (en) 2015-12-18 2022-08-23 Mary Kay Inc. Topical cosmetic compositions
US11684568B2 (en) 2015-12-18 2023-06-27 Mary Kay Inc. Topical cosmetic compositions
US11690798B2 (en) 2015-12-18 2023-07-04 Mary Kay Inc. Topical cosmetic compositions

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