WO2006103351A1 - Produit de maquillage lyophilise, compositions et procede de fabrication correspondants - Google Patents
Produit de maquillage lyophilise, compositions et procede de fabrication correspondants Download PDFInfo
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- WO2006103351A1 WO2006103351A1 PCT/FR2006/000694 FR2006000694W WO2006103351A1 WO 2006103351 A1 WO2006103351 A1 WO 2006103351A1 FR 2006000694 W FR2006000694 W FR 2006000694W WO 2006103351 A1 WO2006103351 A1 WO 2006103351A1
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- 235000018889 capsanthin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- WRANYHFEXGNSND-LOFNIBRQSA-N capsanthin Natural products CC(=C/C=C/C=C(C)/C=C/C=C(C)/C=C/C1=C(C)CC(O)CC1(C)C)C=CC=C(/C)C=CC(=O)C2(C)CCC(O)C2(C)C WRANYHFEXGNSND-LOFNIBRQSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000009132 capsorubin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 239000004202 carbamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012730 carminic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004568 cement Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005119 centrifugation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229930002875 chlorophyll Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000019804 chlorophyll Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- ATNHDLDRLWWWCB-AENOIHSZSA-M chlorophyll a Chemical compound C1([C@@H](C(=O)OC)C(=O)C2=C3C)=C2N2C3=CC(C(CC)=C3C)=[N+]4C3=CC3=C(C=C)C(C)=C5N3[Mg-2]42[N+]2=C1[C@@H](CCC(=O)OC\C=C(/C)CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)[C@H](C)C2=C5 ATNHDLDRLWWWCB-AENOIHSZSA-M 0.000 description 1
- UOUJSJZBMCDAEU-UHFFFAOYSA-N chromium(3+);oxygen(2-) Chemical class [O-2].[O-2].[O-2].[Cr+3].[Cr+3] UOUJSJZBMCDAEU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 238000003795 desorption Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000019425 dextrin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- GUJOJGAPFQRJSV-UHFFFAOYSA-N dialuminum;dioxosilane;oxygen(2-);hydrate Chemical compound O.[O-2].[O-2].[O-2].[Al+3].[Al+3].O=[Si]=O.O=[Si]=O.O=[Si]=O.O=[Si]=O GUJOJGAPFQRJSV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GDVKFRBCXAPAQJ-UHFFFAOYSA-A dialuminum;hexamagnesium;carbonate;hexadecahydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Al+3].[Al+3].[O-]C([O-])=O GDVKFRBCXAPAQJ-UHFFFAOYSA-A 0.000 description 1
- 239000010432 diamond Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910003460 diamond Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229940120503 dihydroxyacetone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- HNPSIPDUKPIQMN-UHFFFAOYSA-N dioxosilane;oxo(oxoalumanyloxy)alumane Chemical compound O=[Si]=O.O=[Al]O[Al]=O HNPSIPDUKPIQMN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000010459 dolomite Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910000514 dolomite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000013399 edible fruits Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 235000004626 essential fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000001914 filtration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012467 final product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930003935 flavonoid Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000017173 flavonoids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 235000011389 fruit/vegetable juice Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- WIGCFUFOHFEKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N gamma-tocopherol Natural products CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC1CCC2C(C)C(O)C(C)C(C)C2O1 WIGCFUFOHFEKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 description 1
- PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N gold Chemical compound [Au] PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052737 gold Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010931 gold Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000002532 grape seed extract Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000010439 graphite Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910002804 graphite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229960002350 guaiazulen Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910000271 hectorite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- HNMCSUXJLGGQFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexaaluminum;hexasodium;tetrathietane;hexasilicate Chemical class [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].S1SSS1.S1SSS1.[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-] HNMCSUXJLGGQFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002674 hyaluronan Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229960003160 hyaluronic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229910052588 hydroxylapatite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229940097275 indigo Drugs 0.000 description 1
- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003893 lactate salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000004310 lactic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000014655 lactic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910052667 lazurite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000002632 lipids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000004973 liquid crystal related substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007791 liquid phase Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012661 lycopene Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001751 lycopene Substances 0.000 description 1
- OAIJSZIZWZSQBC-GYZMGTAESA-N lycopene Chemical compound CC(C)=CCC\C(C)=C\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)CCC=C(C)C OAIJSZIZWZSQBC-GYZMGTAESA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960004999 lycopene Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920002521 macromolecule Polymers 0.000 description 1
- ZLNQQNXFFQJAID-UHFFFAOYSA-L magnesium carbonate Chemical compound [Mg+2].[O-]C([O-])=O ZLNQQNXFFQJAID-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000001095 magnesium carbonate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910000021 magnesium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000000395 magnesium oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- CPLXHLVBOLITMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N magnesium oxide Inorganic materials [Mg]=O CPLXHLVBOLITMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AXZKOIWUVFPNLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N magnesium;oxygen(2-) Chemical compound [O-2].[Mg+2] AXZKOIWUVFPNLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000009973 maize Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- XMWCXZJXESXBBY-UHFFFAOYSA-L manganese(ii) carbonate Chemical compound [Mn+2].[O-]C([O-])=O XMWCXZJXESXBBY-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910044991 metal oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000004706 metal oxides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000004089 microcirculation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000019426 modified starch Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910052901 montmorillonite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000000978 natural dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000000449 nitro group Chemical group [O-][N+](*)=O 0.000 description 1
- 239000011022 opal Substances 0.000 description 1
- BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxobismuth;hydrochloride Chemical compound Cl.[Bi]=O BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SOQBVABWOPYFQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxygen(2-);titanium(4+) Chemical class [O-2].[O-2].[Ti+4] SOQBVABWOPYFQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XYJRXVWERLGGKC-UHFFFAOYSA-D pentacalcium;hydroxide;triphosphate Chemical compound [OH-].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O XYJRXVWERLGGKC-UHFFFAOYSA-D 0.000 description 1
- IEQIEDJGQAUEQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N phthalocyanine Chemical group N1C(N=C2C3=CC=CC=C3C(N=C3C4=CC=CC=C4C(=N4)N3)=N2)=C(C=CC=C2)C2=C1N=C1C2=CC=CC=C2C4=N1 IEQIEDJGQAUEQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920003229 poly(methyl methacrylate) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920003217 poly(methylsilsesquioxane) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000573 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004926 polymethyl methacrylate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000008442 polyphenolic compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000013824 polyphenols Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004810 polytetrafluoroethylene Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001343 polytetrafluoroethylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004321 preservation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000750 progressive effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000010453 quartz Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000002943 quinolinyl group Chemical group N1=C(C=CC2=CC=CC=C12)* 0.000 description 1
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001105 regulatory effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000009566 rice Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000010979 ruby Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001750 ruby Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000003873 salicylate salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052594 sapphire Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010980 sapphire Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052709 silver Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000004332 silver Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940045920 sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- HYRLWUFWDYFEES-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-oxopyrrolidine-1-carboxylate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]C(=O)N1CCCC1=O HYRLWUFWDYFEES-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000001179 sorption measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007921 spray Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004575 stone Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000000346 sugar Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000008163 sugars Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000979 synthetic dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001040 synthetic pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052719 titanium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010936 titanium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010215 titanium dioxide Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium dioxide Inorganic materials O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000011031 topaz Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052853 topaz Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910052613 tourmaline Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011032 tourmaline Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940070527 tourmaline Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011573 trace mineral Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013619 trace mineral Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- ZCIHMQAPACOQHT-ZGMPDRQDSA-N trans-isorenieratene Natural products CC(=C/C=C/C=C(C)/C=C/C=C(C)/C=C/c1c(C)ccc(C)c1C)C=CC=C(/C)C=Cc2c(C)ccc(C)c2C ZCIHMQAPACOQHT-ZGMPDRQDSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GWBUNZLLLLDXMD-UHFFFAOYSA-H tricopper;dicarbonate;dihydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[OH-].[Cu+2].[Cu+2].[Cu+2].[O-]C([O-])=O.[O-]C([O-])=O GWBUNZLLLLDXMD-UHFFFAOYSA-H 0.000 description 1
- 235000019154 vitamin C Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011718 vitamin C Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003700 vitamin C derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000019165 vitamin E Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940046009 vitamin E Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002023 wood Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000001834 xanthenyl group Chemical group C1=CC=CC=2OC3=CC=CC=C3C(C12)* 0.000 description 1
- 239000010457 zeolite Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910000010 zinc carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
- A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/56—Compounds, absorbed onto or entrapped into a solid carrier, e.g. encapsulated perfumes, inclusion compounds, sustained release forms
Definitions
- the present invention relates to the general technical field of make-up products, obtained from an emulsion of a fatty phase and an aqueous phase comprising insoluble suspended charges intended, for example, to produce an optical, texturizing or coloring effect. .
- the present invention relates more particularly to a base composition for makeup.
- the present invention also relates to an intermediate makeup composition derived from the base composition.
- the present invention also relates to a makeup product.
- the present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing a makeup product.
- the present invention also relates to a new use of dispersing agents in a makeup product.
- emulsions for example of a fatty phase and of an aqueous phase, to produce cosmetic products intended to be applied to the skin.
- active ingredients such as antioxidants, vitamins or pigments.
- the emulsified form generally promotes the homogeneous distribution of active ingredients and pigments.
- emulsions have several drawbacks, in particular from their chemical instability.
- the emulsions are highly oxidizable and often prove difficult to preserve.
- compacted makeup powders formed by a mixture of powders with a fatty binder and shaped for example by compression.
- the known compacted powders generally have superior preservation properties than emulsions, but also suffer from several disadvantages.
- the objects assigned to the invention therefore aim to remedy the various disadvantages enumerated above and to propose a new composition, in particular a base composition, comprising predominantly insoluble fillers, which makes it possible to obtain a make-up product which, while having a high makeup power, stable over time, unitary and mechanically resistant.
- Another object of the invention is to provide a new base composition for obtaining a makeup product comprising a high proportion of insoluble fillers while having good dimensional and structural stability and good impact resistance.
- Another object of the invention is to provide a new base composition for obtaining a non-greasy makeup product to the touch.
- Another object of the invention is to provide a new base composition for obtaining a makeup product that can be used dry or after rehydration.
- Another object of the invention is to provide a new base composition for obtaining a makeup product having a very good resistance to the skin while being easy to remove, without requiring any particular solvent other than water.
- the objects assigned to the invention are also intended to provide a novel intermediate composition, derived from the base composition, for facilitating the manufacture and shaping, by lyophilization, of a make-up product.
- the objects assigned to the invention are also intended to provide a new lyophilized makeup product which, while having a high makeup power. Is particularly stable over time, unitary and non-brittle.
- Another object of the invention is to propose a new makeup product comprising a high proportion of insoluble charges incorporated while having a good mechanical resistance, in particular to shocks.
- Another object of the invention is to propose a new makeup product whose density is particularly low.
- the objects assigned to the invention also aim at proposing a novel process for manufacturing a makeup product based on predominantly insoluble fillers making it possible to obtain a product which, while having a high makeup power, is stable over time, unitary, non-brittle and has good strength properties.
- a makeup base composition which can be lyophilized to form a makeup product comprising:
- a quantity of water sufficient for the proportion of water in the intermediate composition to be greater than 50% by weight and preferably greater than 60% by weight.
- the objects assigned to the invention are also achieved with the aid of a freeze-dried make-up product obtained by lyophilization of the base composition or of the intermediate composition according to the invention, at least as previously described.
- a process for producing a freeze-dried makeup product comprising: a step (a) for preparing a base composition, or an intermediate composition obtained by dilution of the base composition, said base composition comprising an emulsion of an aqueous phase and a fatty phase, as well as predominantly insoluble charges suspended in the emulsion, said composition comprising a proportion of charges greater than or equal to at 50% by weight,
- step (b) of lyophilizing the base composition or the intermediate composition said step (a) comprising a substep of incorporation of dispersing agents in the emulsion in an amount sufficient to form, during the course of the lyophilization step (b), a network of cavities capable of trapping the charges.
- the base composition according to the invention is intended to be lyophilized to form a freeze-dried makeup product such as an eyeshadow, a blush, a lipstick or a foundation, for example for make-up. face and / or body.
- the base composition comprises an emulsion of two immiscible phases, and more specifically an emulsion of a fatty phase and an aqueous phase.
- the base composition also comprises predominantly insoluble fillers.
- predominantly insoluble fillers denotes fillers, that is to say colorless or colored, mineral or organic, natural or synthetic particles forming a powdery phase, and which are either totally insoluble or partially soluble in water. emulsion, the soluble part of the filler being a minority relative to the insoluble part, the majority. It may be for example particles such as lacquers, formed by a support on which a dye is deposited, the dye being capable of dissolving at least partially in one of the phases of the emulsion, namely the phase fat and / or the aqueous phase, and the support being insoluble.
- the predominantly insoluble fillers are advantageously chosen from one or more of the following groups: inorganic or organic pigments, natural or synthetic, and / or - lacquers, and / or
- the inorganic or organic synthetic pigments or the natural pigments advantageously constitute a colored pulverulent phase and may be chosen from the following compounds: chromium oxides, ferric ferrocyanides, guaiazulene, iron oxides, ultramarines, azurite, malachite, Lazurite, purples manganese, titanium oxides, zinc oxides, vegetable black, pigments of the azo group (D & C red 34 ...), graphite, and / or hydrophilic or hydrophobic colored fibers, of synthetic or natural origin, mineral or organic. These fibers can also be long, short, unitary or organized, their section being circular or polygonal.
- Such pigments make it possible to obtain a decorative makeup for the face and / or the body.
- the lacquers, used as fillers are advantageously pigmentary type dyestuffs obtained from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes by adsorption on an inert mineral support, such as alumina hydrate, or on a mordant. i.e. a substance (such as a fiber) used to fix the dye.
- the water-soluble dyes mentioned above may be formed by natural or synthetic dyes preferably chosen from the following compounds: annatto, hypoxanthine, caramel, carotenoids, pastel blue, carmine, madder red, madder orange, Brazilian red, campeche violet, solid yellow, reseda yellow, cosmos orange, nerprun orange, capsanthin, capsorubin, henna, chlorophyll green, black tannins, crocus sativus flower extract, coptis chinensis rhizome extract, vitis vinifera juice extract, curry seed, gardenia florida extract, tannin beige, tropical indigo blue, nitro group dyes (ex: D & C Yellow 7), azo group dyes, xanthene group dyes, quinoline group dyes, anthraquinone group dyes, indigo group dyes, and / or phthalocyanine group dyes.
- natural or synthetic dyes preferably chosen from the following compounds: annatto, hypo
- the pearlescent particles are formed by insoluble particles, colored or not, intended to provide reflections and iridescence.
- the pearlescent particles are thus preferentially chosen from the following particles: bismuth oxychloride, metal particles (bronze powder, aluminum powder, copper powder), guanine, silver, gold, natural or synthetic mica (fluorphlogopite) with coatings (dioxide titanium, metal oxides, organic pigments, dyes) single or multiple, borosilicates with single or multiple coatings, silica with single or multiple coatings, metal particles with single or multiple coatings, iron oxides with single or multiple coatings, silicas with single coatings or multiple, decorative colored sequins made of polyester or epoxy aluminum of various shapes, and / or liquid crystals.
- the texturing effect fillers are preferably unstained and used as texturizing agents. These fillers can be either of natural origin (vegetable or mineral) or synthetic. As insoluble texturizing fillers, mention may be made of the following elements: talc, mica, biotite, acrylate copolymer, clay, kaolin, boron nitride, polymethylmethacrylate, polyurethane, modified or unmodified bentonite, chalk, amethyst powder, alumina, barium sulphate, modified or unmodified silica, diamond powder, glass beads, hectorite, hydroxyapatite, calcite, dolomite, diatoms, hydrophobic silica, loess, fluorphlogopite, magnesium-aluminum-hydroxide carbonate, magnesium-aluminum-zinc-hydroxide carbonate, magnesium nitrate, magnesium oxide, magnesium and potassium fluorosilicate, magnesium-sodium fluorosilicate, magnesium
- optical effect fillers are preferentially chosen for their optical properties and are preferably chosen from the list of the following elements: optical effect pigments (soft focus light scattering pigments), photosensitive pigments, thermochromic pigments, photochromic pigments, optical brighteners and / or pH-sensitive pigments.
- the fatty phase constitutes the dispersed phase of the emulsion, and is in the form of drops, while the aqueous phase constitutes the continuous phase. It can thus be an emulsion of an oil in water. It is of course conceivable, without departing from the scope of the invention, that the emulsion is formed by an emulsion of water in an oil, the water then forming the dispersed phase and the oil the continuous phase of the emulsion .
- the base composition also comprises dispersing agents in an amount sufficient to ensure, on the one hand, the dispersion of the predominantly insoluble fillers in the emulsion and, on the other hand, to form, after lyophilization, a network cavities capable of trapping and imprisoning charges.
- the dispersing agents are advantageously selected for their ability to interact with the fillers, on the one hand to prevent their agglomeration and thus obtain a base composition and a final product as homogeneous as possible, and on the other hand for their ability to form, in freeze-dried form, a network capable of trapping charges within cavities.
- the dispersing agents are formed by hydrocolloids, that is to say, water-soluble colloids selected for their high dispersancy, in particular with respect to the fillers.
- the hydrocolloids are preferably selected from isoparaffin laureth-7 polyacrylamide (Sepigel®), and / or magnesium aluminum silicate (Veegum®), and / or xanthan gum.
- the hydrocolloids are predominantly formed by magnesium aluminum silicate.
- the weight ratio of concentration between the dispersing agents and the fillers is preferably between 0.01 and 0.5 and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.1.
- the charges, thus trapped within the cavities, are progressively released as the product is hydrated, and in particular the superficial layers of the product.
- the product constitutes a porous structure capable, thanks to the network of cavities, to be easily rehydrated.
- the fillers can also be progressively released during the direct application of the product to the skin.
- the freeze-dried cosmetic product thus obtained is particularly stable and does not exhibit a fragile and brittle nature, even for high proportions of fillers.
- the cavities formed also serve to trap the fatty phase and the weight ratio of concentration between the dispersing agents and the fatty phase ([dispersing agents] / [fatty phase]) is advantageously between 0.01 and 1, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.5, and even more preferably between 0.2 and 0.4.
- the imprisonment of the fatty phase within the cavities thus makes it possible to obtain a freeze-dried makeup product in the form of a dry emulsion, which is not greasy to the touch and very pleasant to use.
- the weight ratio of concentration between the fatty phase and the fillers ([fat phase] / [fillers]) is between 0.1 and 3.5, preferably between 0.1 and 1 and even more preferentially between 0.1. and 0.5.
- the lyophilized makeup product according to the invention advantageously has a proportion of predominantly insoluble fillers greater than the proportion of fat phase, while maintaining a stable and non-brittle character.
- the proportion of fatty phase in the base composition is preferably less than 20% by weight, more preferably less than 10% by weight, especially for eyeshadow and blush applications.
- the freeze-dried makeup product according to the invention advantageously comprises a proportion of fatty phase of less than 40% by weight, preferably less than
- the low percentage of fat phase allows the rapid elimination of the product, for example by cleaning the skin with a simple cotton soaked in water.
- the base composition comprises a proportion of charges substantially greater than or equal to 50% by weight, and still more preferably substantially greater than or equal to 60% by weight, a proportion in substantially greater than or equal to 65% by weight also giving excellent results.
- This large proportion of fillers in the base composition makes it possible to obtain a freeze-dried make-up product having a very high proportion of fillers. comparison with traditional formulations such as emulsions or compacted powders, and thus a high makeup power.
- the base composition comprises a proportion of water of less than 50% by weight and preferably less than 40% by weight.
- the base composition thus takes on the appearance of a thick paste, compact and non-fluid, unstructured and not smooth, in the form of aggregates.
- the base composition also comprises at least one active ingredient chosen from one or more of the following groups:
- Self-tanning agents may include dihydroxyacetone and / or erythrulose.
- the filters and sunscreens are preferably selected from the following elements: screens (micronized titanium dioxides, micronized zinc oxides), chemical filters (para-amino-benzoic acid (PABA)), cinnamic esters, salicylates, benzimidazole derivatives. .) and / or filtering molecules of natural origin.
- the anti-radicals are preferably selected from the list of the following compounds: flavonoids, polyphenols, procyanidolic oligomers, lycopene, carotenoids, vitamin E, and / or vitamin C.
- Bleaching agents are preferably formed by vitamin C derivatives or plant extracts.
- the moisturizing agents are preferably selected from the following compounds: humectants (glycerol, sorbitol, lactic acid, lactates, alpha-hydroxy acids ...), NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor) components (urea, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, amino acids, sugars ), hydrophilic film-forming agents (hyaluronic acid, glycosaminoglycans, substantive polymers), and / or hydrophobic film-forming agents (epidermal lipid counter-type).
- humectants glycerol, sorbitol, lactic acid, lactates, alpha-hydroxy acids
- NMF Natural Moisturizing Factor
- urea sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, amino acids, sugars
- hydrophilic film-forming agents hyaluronic acid, glycosaminoglycans, substantive polymers
- hydrophobic film-forming agents epidermal lipid counter-type
- the treating agents are preferably selected from the list of the following elements: trace elements, liposoluble and water-soluble vitamins, plant extracts, minerals, extracts obtained by biotechnology, synthetic actives, macromolecules, unsaponifiables, essential fatty acids, micro-circulation activators, agents regulating the sebaceous function, soothing.
- the active ingredients thus make it possible to obtain a makeup product that is not only decorative but also treating, solar and / or camouflaging for the face and / or the body.
- the base composition and the freeze-dried make-up product according to the invention may also comprise any type of known adjuvant used for cosmetic or make-up applications.
- Several examples of formulations of the base composition will now be described for applications as eyeshadow, blush, foundation and lipstick.
- Example 1 Basic Composition for Eyeshadow or Freeze-Dried Blush
- a freeze-dried make-up makeup composition is provided to form a freeze-dried make-up product for application to the skin as an eyeshadow or blush.
- the components No. 7 to 10 form the fatty phase of the emulsion
- components 6, 13 and 15 form dispersing agents and more specifically hydrocolloids.
- the weight ratio of concentration between the hydrocolloids and the fillers ([hydrocolloids] / [charges]) is equal to 0.17 for this formulation.
- the weight ratio of concentration between the hydrocolloids and the fatty phase ([hydrocolloids] / [fatty phase]) is equal to 0.99 and the weight ratio of concentration between the fatty phase and the fillers ([fat phase] / [fillers] ) is equal to 0.17.
- the weight ratio of concentration between the hydrocolloids and the fillers is equal to 0.05 for this formulation.
- the weight ratio of concentration between the hydrocolloids and the fatty phase ([hydrocolloids] / [fatty phase]) is equal to 0.35 and the weight ratio of concentration between the fatty phase and the fillers ([fat phase] / [fillers] ) is equal to 0.15.
- This base composition thus makes it possible to obtain, after removal of the water by freeze-drying, a freeze-dried makeup product (eye shadow or blush) comprising a percentage of pearlescent matter greater than 65% and a percentage of fillers (including the nacres and texturing effect fillers such as talc or mica) greater than 70% and up to 80% for the second embodiment.
- the percentage of fatty phase in the finished product is also preferably less than 20%, and even more preferably less than 15%.
- the weight ratio between the hydrocolloids (dispersing agents) and the fillers ([hydrocolloids] / [fillers]) will preferably be between 0.01 and 0.2 and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.1, whereas the weight ratio of concentration between the hydrocolloids and the fatty phase ([hydrocolloids] / [fatty phase]) will preferably be between 0.2 and 1 and even more preferentially between 0.2 and 0.5, the weight ratio of concentration between the fatty phase and the fillers ([fat phase] / [fillers]) being preferably between 0.1 and 0.2.
- compositions for eyeshadow or blush may also contain active ingredients such as those mentioned above, without departing from the scope of the invention.
- Example 2 Basic composition for foundation
- a base composition is prepared to be lyophilized to obtain a freeze-dried make-up product for application as a foundation.
- the proportion of the component 18, formed by the pearlescent particles is lower in the foundation than in the eyeshadow and the proportion of the fatty phase is on the contrary significantly higher in the foundation, compared with with eyeshadow.
- the weight ratio of concentration between the hydrocolloids and the fatty phase ([hydrocolloid] / fatty phase] is of the order of 0.17.
- the weight ratio of concentration between the hydrocolloids and the fillers is substantially of the order of 0.41 and the weight ratio of concentration between the fatty phase and the fillers ([fatty phase] / [ loads]) is of the order of 2.41.
- the weight ratio of concentration between the hydrocolloids and the charges ([hydrocolloids] / [charges]) is equal to 0.13 for this formulation.
- the weight ratio of concentration between the hydrocolloids and the fatty phase ([hydrocolloids] / [fatty phase]) is equal to 0.31 and the weight ratio of concentration between the fatty phase and the fillers ([fat phase] / [fillers] ) is equal to 0.44.
- This base composition for foundation makes it possible to obtain, after removal of the water by freeze-drying, a freeze-dried makeup product (foundation) comprising a percentage of fillers (including nacres and texturing effect fillers such as talc or mica) greater than 20%, preferably greater than 60% and up to 62% for the second embodiment.
- the percentage of fat phase in the finished product is higher than in Example 1, but remains preferably less than 30%.
- the weight ratio between the hydrocolloids (dispersing agents) and the fillers ([hydrocolloids] / [fillers]) will preferably be between 0.01 and 0.5 and even more preferentially understood. between 0.01 and 0.2, whereas the weight ratio of concentration between the hydrocolloids and the fatty phase ([hydrocolloids] / [fatty phase]) will preferably be between 0.2 and 1 and even more preferably between 0, 2 and 0.5, the weight ratio of concentration between the fatty phase and the fillers ([fat phase] / [fillers]) being preferably between 0.1 and 3.5, and even more preferably between 0.1 and 3.5. 1.
- Foundation compositions may also comprise active ingredients such as those mentioned above, without departing from the scope of the invention.
- Example 3 Basic composition for lipstick
- a base composition is prepared to be lyophilized to form a lyophilized makeup product for a lipstick application.
- the proportion of fat phase in the base composition for lipstick is substantially higher than in the base composition for eyeshadow described in Example 1.
- the weight ratio of concentration between the hydrocolloids and the fatty phase ([hydrocolloids] / [fatty phase]) is of the order of 0.45.
- the weight ratio of concentration between the hydrocolloids and the fillers is substantially of the order of 0.45 and the weight ratio of concentration between the fatty phase and the fillers ([fatty phase] / [ loads]) is of the order of 1.
- the weight ratio of concentration between the hydrocolloids and the charges ([hydrocolloids] / [charges]) is equal to 0.08 for this formulation.
- the weight ratio of concentration between the hydrocolloids and the fatty phase ([hydrocolloids] / [fatty phase]) is equal to 0.31 and the weight ratio of concentration between the fatty phase and the fillers ([fat phase] / [fillers] ) is equal to 0.27.
- This base composition for lipstick thus makes it possible, after freeze-drying water, to obtain a freeze-dried makeup product (lipstick) comprising a percentage of fillers (including nacres and texturing effect fillers such as talc or mica) greater than 40%, preferably greater than 60% and up to 72% for the second embodiment.
- the percentage of fatty phase in the finished product is higher than in Example 1, but remains preferably less than 40%, and even more preferably less than 25-30%.
- the weight ratio between the hydrocolloids (dispersing agents) and the fillers ([hydrocolloids] / [fillers]) will preferably be between 0.01 and 0.5 and even more preferentially understood. between 0.01 and 0.2, whereas the weight ratio of concentration between the hydrocolloids and the fatty phase ([hydrocolloids] / [fatty phase]) will preferably be between 0.2 and 1 and even more preferably between 0, 2 and 0.5, the weight ratio of concentration between the fatty phase and the fillers ([fat phase] / [fillers]) being preferably between 0.1 and 3.5, and even more preferably between 0.1 and 3.5. 1.
- the compositions for lipstick may of course include active ingredients such as those mentioned above, without departing from the scope of the invention.
- the present invention also relates to an intermediate composition derived from the base composition and capable of being lyophilized to form a makeup product and comprising a mixture comprising the base composition described above and a quantity of water sufficient for the proportion of water in the intermediate composition is greater than 50% by weight and preferably greater than 60% by weight.
- the dilution of the base composition to obtain the intermediate composition thus makes it possible to obtain a fluid formula that can be more easily distributed on supports, for example in buckets, than the paste forming the base composition.
- the base composition is diluted to 50% to obtain the intermediate composition.
- the intermediate composition has an apparent viscosity of between 100 and 150 mPa.s at 25 ° C. for a shear rate of 125 s -1 .
- the apparent viscosity is measured by a HAAKE VT 500 viscometer
- the intermediate composition advantageously forms a non-Newtonian fluid.
- the intermediate composition obtained by dilution of the base composition is furthermore thermodynamically unstable.
- the intermediate composition is centrifuged at room temperature at a speed of 6000 rpm for 5 minutes, a mixture formed by two distinct and separate phases is obtained, which illustrates the unstable nature of the intermediate composition.
- the centrifugation of an emulsion classic for makeup does not alter the appearance of the emulsion, which retains its homogeneity, from which one infers its stability.
- Examples of intermediate compositions according to the invention may be obtained by dilution, for example to 50%, of the base compositions illustrated in Examples 1 to 3.
- the present invention also relates to a lyophilized makeup product obtained by lyophilization of the base composition described above.
- the freeze-dried makeup product thus obtained advantageously constitutes a dry emulsion, the water contained in the initial emulsion having left the product, by sublimation.
- the freeze-dried make-up product free of water, retains substantially the same volume as that which it occupied, for example in a scoop, before freeze-drying.
- the lyophilized makeup product according to the invention advantageously has a low density, less than 1 g / cm 3 , preferably less than 0.5 g / cm 3 , and even more preferably less than 0.4 g / cm 3 .
- the density of the lyophilized makeup product according to the invention is lower than the density of a product obtained by evaporation of the base composition.
- the lyophilized makeup product obtained by lyophilization of the base composition described in Example 1 has a density of the order of 0.34 g / cm 3 while the product obtained by Evaporation of the base composition described in Example 1 has a density of 0.54 g / cm 3 .
- freeze-drying allows the product to retain a similar appearance and structure to those that it had before being subjected to the freeze-drying process, that is, before the water left the product. .
- evaporation causes significant changes in appearance, such as loss of volume, shrinkage or cracking of the product.
- Conventional powders obtained by conventional compaction technology, also have a higher density than that of the freeze-dried makeup product according to the invention, and most often greater than 1 g / cm 3 .
- the cavities formed in the freeze-dried makeup product by virtue of the presence in sufficient quantity of the hydrocolloids dissolved in the aqueous phase advantageously constitute a network for rehydrating the product.
- a freeze-dried makeup product having a high porosity is thus obtained in comparison with conventional products obtained by evaporation of emulsions or by compacting powders.
- the freeze-dried makeup product comprises a proportion of predominantly insoluble fillers greater than 60% by weight and preferably greater than 65% by weight.
- the lyophilized makeup product according to the invention comprises a proportion of pearlescent particles greater than 40% by weight, and even more preferably greater than 60% by weight.
- the makeup product obtained by lyophilization of the base composition illustrated in Example 1 (Table 2) comprises a percentage of pearlescent matter greater than 60%, of the order of 64%, and a percentage of mostly insoluble loads exceeding 70%.
- the freeze-dried make-up product according to the invention has good mechanical properties, and in particular good mechanical resistance to shocks.
- a drop test was carried out on various make-up products, namely a freeze-dried eyeshadow obtained by lyophilization of the base composition described in Example 1 and a conventional eyeshadow formed by compacted powders. These make-up products are contained in metal buckets with a square section of 18 millimeters on each side. The drop test consists of dropping the buckets to a height of 30 centimeters and counting the number of falls that the buckets are likely to withstand before the product breaks. The results are reported in Table 7 below.
- the lyophilized makeup product according to the invention although having a high percentage of nacres in comparison with conventional products, has a shock resistance much higher than that of conventional eye shadows.
- the expanded structure of the freeze-dried makeup product according to the invention forms a cement, in which cavities are formed in which the charges, and in particular the pearlescent particles, are trapped.
- the charges, thus trapped and evenly distributed within the cavities, do not form clusters capable of constituting, locally, zones of weakness and points of breakage of the product.
- the lyophilized makeup product according to the invention is formed by an eyeshadow, a blush, a foundation or a lipstick.
- the present invention also relates to a process for manufacturing a lyophilized makeup product comprising: a step (a) for preparing a base composition or an intermediate composition obtained by dilution of the base composition, said composition comprising a composition emulsion of an aqueous phase and a fatty phase as well as predominantly insoluble charges suspended in the emulsion, said composition having a proportion of filler greater than or equal to 50% by weight,
- step (b) of lyophilizing the base composition comprising a substep of incorporation of dispersing agents in the emulsion in an amount sufficient to form, during step (b) lyophilization, a quality network capable of trapping charges.
- the step (a) of preparing the base composition advantageously comprises a first step of manufacturing a dry mixture composed of fillers, and in particular pigments and pearlescent agents. This manufacturing step is comparable to that of a conventional cosmetic powder.
- the preparation step (a) also has a second step of manufacturing an emulsion, containing the fatty phase and the aqueous phase, as well as dispersing agents, and more precisely hydrocolloids dissolved in the aqueous phase and optionally suspended powders.
- This manufacturing step is substantially identical to that of a conventional emulsion.
- the preparation step (a) then comprises a third step of mixing the emulsion with the dry mix, so as to obtain a thick paste, in the form of aggregates and constituting the previously described base composition, which has a proportion of charges greater than or equal to 50% by weight.
- the base composition is then introduced, in pure form or diluted in water, into wells, in order to be lyophilized therein.
- the mentioned lyophilization step (b) previously advantageously comprises a first substep during which the base composition or the intermediate composition is cooled to a temperature below -10 ° C. and preferably between -20 and -80 ° C. to freeze or dry it. freeze, preferably for a period of at least one hour, for example for a period of 2 to 10 hours.
- the freeze-drying step (b) then comprises a second substep during which the frozen product thus obtained is placed under a vacuum, corresponding to an absolute pressure preferably greater than 10 Pa and preferably less than 100 Pa, in now the product at a temperature below -5 ° C and preferably between -15 and -40 ° C to dehydrate the product, by sublimation, preferably for a period of several hours for example 10 to 50 hours.
- the ice which forms the most volatile phase of the product, is thus transformed directly into water vapor, without passing through the liquid phase.
- the freeze-drying step (b) then comprises a third substep during which secondary dehydration is effected, that is to say a desorption of the product by progressive heating of the latter until a positive and lower temperature at 50 ° C., preferably between 20 and 50 ° C., for several hours, for example for 5 to 30 hours.
- the weight ratio of concentration between the dispersing agents and the fillers is between 0.01 and 0.5 and preferably between 0.01 and 0.1 in order to on the one hand to obtain a good dispersion of the charges in the base composition, and therefore a homogeneous product, and on the other hand to form a network of cavities capable of trapping the charges.
- the manufacturing method according to the invention advantageously also comprises a step (c) of dilution, prior to the step (b) of freeze-drying, during which the base composition is diluted in a sufficient quantity of water so that the intermediate composition has a proportion of water greater than 50% by weight and preferably greater than 60% by weight.
- This step (c) of dilution thus makes it possible to obtain an intermediate composition which is more fluid than the base composition and therefore easier to distribute on the supports, and in particular in the cups.
- the dilution of the base composition also makes it possible to obtain, after freeze-drying, a highly expanded makeup product having a low density compared with conventional makeup products, such as compacted powders.
- the present invention also relates to a new use of dispersing agents in sufficient quantity in a freeze-dried makeup product obtained by lyophilization of a composition comprising on the one hand an emulsion of a fatty phase and of an aqueous phase and on the other hand, at least partially insoluble fillers, suspended in the emulsion and representing 50% by weight of the composition, for obtaining, by freeze-drying, a network of cavities capable of trapping the charges.
- the dispersing agents are advantageously formed by highly dispersible hydrocolloids, preferably selected from isoparaffin laureth-7 polyacrylamide and / or magnesium aluminum silicate and / or or xanthan gum.
- the weight ratio of concentration between the dispersing agents and the fillers is between 0.01 and 0.5 and preferably between 0.01 and 0.1 as described above.
- the use of dispersing agents thus makes it possible to obtain a freeze-dried make-up product having a porous and expanded structure with cavities capable of trapping and dry-trapping predominantly insoluble fillers, present in a significant content (greater than or equal to 50%).
- the freeze-dried make-up product according to the invention is therefore likely to contain a high percentage of insoluble fillers, and in particular nacres, while maintaining a good mechanical resistance, in particular to impact, and without its structure being weakened by the presence of loads.
- freeze-dried makeup product stems from the fact that the release of the fillers, and in particular of the pigments, takes place progressively, as the product is applied or rehydrated, and homogeneous way, thanks to the homogeneous distribution of the charges in the cavities.
- freeze-dried makeup product according to the invention comes from the fact that the steps of its manufacture can be successively carried out on different production sites, and in particular on a first production site, where the preparation is carried out. of the base composition, and then on a second production site, where on the one hand the preparation of the intermediate composition is carried out, by dilution of the base composition, and on the other hand lyophilization of the intermediate composition. Thanks to its structure, in the form of solid aggregates, the base composition is furthermore easy to pack and transport from the first production site to the second production site. Once lyophilized, the makeup product according to the invention is preferably conveyed to another production site, in order to ensure its conditioning. POSSIBILITY OF INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION
- the invention finds its industrial application in the manufacture and use of compositions for cosmetic purposes.
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Abstract
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (5)
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JP2008503556A JP2008534560A (ja) | 2005-03-30 | 2006-03-30 | 凍結乾燥メーキャップ製品、対応する組成物および製造方法 |
US11/910,368 US20090304609A1 (en) | 2005-03-30 | 2006-03-30 | Freeze-dried makeup product, corresponding compositions and method for making same |
EP06743625A EP1871326A1 (fr) | 2005-03-30 | 2006-03-30 | Produit de maquillage lyophilise, compositions et procede de fabrication correspondants |
BRPI0610406-1A BRPI0610406A2 (pt) | 2005-03-30 | 2006-03-30 | composição básica ou intermediária para maquiagem capaz de ser liofilizada para formar um produto de maquiagem, produto de maquiagem liofilizado e processo de produção de um produto de maquiagem liofilizado |
CA002603137A CA2603137A1 (fr) | 2005-03-30 | 2006-03-30 | Produit de maquillage lyophilise, compositions et procede de fabrication correspondants |
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FR0503107A FR2883733B1 (fr) | 2005-03-30 | 2005-03-30 | Produit de maquillage lyophilise, compositions et procede de fabrication correspondants |
FR0503107 | 2005-03-30 |
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WO2006103351A1 true WO2006103351A1 (fr) | 2006-10-05 |
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PCT/FR2006/000694 WO2006103351A1 (fr) | 2005-03-30 | 2006-03-30 | Produit de maquillage lyophilise, compositions et procede de fabrication correspondants |
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US (1) | US20090304609A1 (fr) |
EP (1) | EP1871326A1 (fr) |
JP (1) | JP2008534560A (fr) |
BR (1) | BRPI0610406A2 (fr) |
CA (1) | CA2603137A1 (fr) |
FR (1) | FR2883733B1 (fr) |
RU (1) | RU2395270C2 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2006103351A1 (fr) |
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ITMI20091506A1 (it) * | 2009-08-26 | 2011-02-27 | Intercos Italiana | Processo per la produzione di prodotti cosmetici colorati in polvere mediante congelamento |
CN101530373B (zh) * | 2008-03-14 | 2011-12-28 | 蔡强 | 制备脂质体药物及普通药物的冷冻干燥机组 |
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ITMI20072336A1 (it) * | 2007-12-14 | 2009-06-15 | Gamma Croma Spa | Procedimento per la preparazione di prodotti cosmetici |
DE102008052520A1 (de) * | 2008-10-21 | 2010-04-22 | Cognis Ip Management Gmbh | Kosmetische und/oder pharmazeutische Zubereitungen |
JP5723104B2 (ja) * | 2010-03-25 | 2015-05-27 | 株式会社マンダム | 皮膚用乳化組成物 |
IT1402847B1 (it) * | 2010-06-01 | 2013-09-27 | Color Cosmetics S R L | Prodotto cosmetico solido in polvere compatta e relativo processo di ottenimento. |
EP3912682A1 (fr) * | 2013-03-26 | 2021-11-24 | L'oreal | Compositions cosmétiques triphasiques comprenant des nacres |
GB2537648B (en) * | 2015-04-22 | 2020-01-08 | Cosmetic Warriors Ltd | Composition |
EA201992529A1 (ru) | 2017-07-12 | 2020-06-02 | Юнилевер Н.В. | Подвергнутая сублимационной сушке композиция активного вещества и система для ее применения |
KR20240025033A (ko) * | 2021-12-27 | 2024-02-26 | 카오카부시키가이샤 | 퍼스널 케어 제품의 제조 방법 |
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JPH072621B2 (ja) * | 1985-09-03 | 1995-01-18 | 龍宝堂製薬株式会社 | 固形粉末化粧料の製法 |
JPH0729905B2 (ja) * | 1987-10-07 | 1995-04-05 | 株式会社資生堂 | 粉末固形化粧料の製造方法 |
JP3735764B2 (ja) * | 1999-08-31 | 2006-01-18 | 株式会社コーセー | 固形粉末化粧料の製造方法 |
JP2003261420A (ja) * | 2002-03-06 | 2003-09-16 | Pola Chem Ind Inc | 造形メークアップ化粧料 |
US20040234564A1 (en) * | 2003-02-25 | 2004-11-25 | Xavier Blin | Two-coat makeup product, its uses, and makeup kit comprising the product |
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2005
- 2005-03-30 FR FR0503107A patent/FR2883733B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
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2006
- 2006-03-30 BR BRPI0610406-1A patent/BRPI0610406A2/pt not_active IP Right Cessation
- 2006-03-30 EP EP06743625A patent/EP1871326A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
- 2006-03-30 WO PCT/FR2006/000694 patent/WO2006103351A1/fr active Application Filing
- 2006-03-30 CA CA002603137A patent/CA2603137A1/fr not_active Abandoned
- 2006-03-30 JP JP2008503556A patent/JP2008534560A/ja not_active Ceased
- 2006-03-30 US US11/910,368 patent/US20090304609A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2006-03-30 RU RU2007139910/15A patent/RU2395270C2/ru not_active IP Right Cessation
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FR2068447A1 (en) * | 1969-11-26 | 1971-08-27 | Orsymonde | Dehydrated pharmaceutical comps by - lyophilisation |
FR2649318A1 (fr) * | 1989-07-07 | 1991-01-11 | Tisnes Paul | Formes galeniques deshydratees pour l'usage dermatologique et cosmetique |
US5607666A (en) * | 1993-12-22 | 1997-03-04 | L'oreal | Cosmetic or dermatological powder, its preparation process and its uses |
US5422112A (en) * | 1994-06-09 | 1995-06-06 | Chesebrough-Pond's Usa Co., Division Of Conopco, Inc. | Thickened cosmetic compositions |
FR2727312A1 (fr) * | 1994-11-24 | 1996-05-31 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique sous forme de poudre compacte et procede de preparation |
US20040241127A1 (en) * | 2001-10-25 | 2004-12-02 | Alicia Roso | Use of alkylpolyglycosides as emulsifying agents for the preparation oil-in-water emulsions containing mineral pigments or fillers and the oil-in-water emulsions containing such alkylpolyglycosides |
DE10254335A1 (de) * | 2002-11-21 | 2004-06-03 | Beiersdorf Ag | Lichtschutzkonzentrat mit wasserlöslichen Polymeren |
Cited By (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN101530373B (zh) * | 2008-03-14 | 2011-12-28 | 蔡强 | 制备脂质体药物及普通药物的冷冻干燥机组 |
ITMI20091506A1 (it) * | 2009-08-26 | 2011-02-27 | Intercos Italiana | Processo per la produzione di prodotti cosmetici colorati in polvere mediante congelamento |
EP2289683A1 (fr) * | 2009-08-26 | 2011-03-02 | Intercos S.p.A. | Procédé de production de produits cosmétiques colorants pulvérulents par lyophilisation |
US20110049740A1 (en) * | 2009-08-26 | 2011-03-03 | Intercos S.P.A. | Process for production of coloured powder cosmetic products by means of freezing |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
JP2008534560A (ja) | 2008-08-28 |
RU2007139910A (ru) | 2009-05-10 |
EP1871326A1 (fr) | 2008-01-02 |
BRPI0610406A2 (pt) | 2010-06-22 |
CA2603137A1 (fr) | 2006-10-05 |
US20090304609A1 (en) | 2009-12-10 |
FR2883733B1 (fr) | 2012-02-03 |
FR2883733A1 (fr) | 2006-10-06 |
RU2395270C2 (ru) | 2010-07-27 |
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