WO2001006996A1

WO2001006996A1 - Cosmetic agents containing extracts from plants of the family of piperaceae

Info

Publication number: WO2001006996A1
Application number: PCT/EP2000/006737
Authority: WO
Inventors: Wilhelm Johannisbauer; Mehdi Bonakdar; Klaus Rudolf SCHRÖDER; Rolf Wachter
Original assignee: Cognis Deutschland Gmbh
Priority date: 1999-07-23
Filing date: 2000-07-14
Publication date: 2001-02-01
Also published as: DE19933857A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic agents that contain an extract from at least one plant of the family of Piperaceae and to their use for producing cosmetic agents.

Description

COSMETIC AGENTS WITH PLANT EXTRACTS FROM THE PIPERACEAE FAMILY

Field of the Invention

The invention is in the field of cosmetic products and relates to products containing plant extracts from the Piperaceae family.

State of the art

Cosmetic preparations are available to the consumer in a variety of combinations today. Nevertheless, there is still a need in the market for products with an improved range of services. Skin compatibility and the use of natural products by the customer are particularly important here. In addition, it is desirable to obtain significantly better products by combining them with known active ingredients. Of particular interest are substances that both positively influence the technical properties of the cosmetic product, such as storage stability, light stability and formulability, and at the same time represent active ingredients that impart, for example, nourishing, moisturizing, anti-irritant and / or anti-inflammatory properties.

Furthermore, especially in the field of so-called “anti-aging” products, there is a constant need for new and more effective substances that can stop or delay the normal or disease-related aging process of the skin. Of particular interest here is the combination with already known “anti-aging” "substances who.

The complex object of the invention was therefore to provide cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations which meet the high requirements for phase stability and storage stability as well as compatibility with sensitive skin and, if possible, also have significantly improved skin-care and protective properties.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions which contain an extract of at least one plant from the Piperaceae family, in particular an extract from Piperaceae of the genus Piper L. Surprisingly, it has been found that the use of an extract from Piperaceae gives products which are both good care and protective properties as well as have high skin tolerance at an early stage. The agents obtained in this way are furthermore distinguished by a particularly high antioxidative capacity, which on the one hand protects the skin from inflammatory reactions and against oxidative skin aging processes, and on the other hand protects the cosmetic agents from oxidative degradation (spoilage). In addition, the agents obtained in this way are stable against microbial attack, in particular against fungal attack, so that in many cases the addition of further preservatives can be dispensed with. This is particularly advantageous with regard to products for sensitive skin, since allergic reactions or intolerances are often triggered by preservatives.

For the purposes of the present application, the term plant means both whole plants and parts of plants (leaves, roots, flowers, fruits) and mixtures thereof.

Piperaceae

The extracts to be used according to the invention are selected from plants of the Piperaceae family. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, extracts from Piperaceae of the genus Piper L. are used as plant extracts. Piper betle L, Piper cuba L, Piper longum L. and Piper nigrum L. are preferred. Extracts from Piper betle L. (betel pepper) are particularly preferred.

Piper betle

Betel pepper (Piper betle L.) is a perennial, up to 5 m high climbing plant with heart-shaped leaves, tiny yellow-green flowers and small, round fruits. It is native to Malaysia and southern India and is also grown in South Asia, East Africa, Madagascar and the Caribbean. All known Piper betle varieties are to be used according to the invention, such as, for example, the varieties "Bangla", "Desawari", "Kapoori", "Khasi", "Meetha" and "Sanchi". Leaves, roots as well as fruits and flowers can be used. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the leaf extracts (betel leaf extracts) are used. For a comprehensive description of the betel pepper and the botanical classification, reference is made to Hager's Handbook of Pharmaceutical Practice, (5th edition, vol. 4, Springer Verlag Berlin-Heidelberg-New-York, 1992).

extraction

The extracts to be used according to the invention are produced by customary methods of extracting the plants or parts of plants. Regarding the suitable conventional extraction methods such as maceration, remaceration, digestion, movement maceration, vortex extraction, ultrasound extraction, countercurrent extraction, percolation, repercolation, evacolation (extraction under reduced pressure), diacolation and solid liquid ex- traction under continuous reflux, which is carried out in a Soxhlet extractor, which is known to the person skilled in the art and in principle all can be used, for the sake of simplicity, for example, on Hager's Handbook of Pharmaceutical Practice, (5th edition. Vol. 2, p. 1026- 1030, Springer Verlag, Berlin-Heidelberg-New-York 1991). The percolation method is advantageous for large-scale use.

Fresh plants or parts of plants can be used as the starting material, but usually dried plants and / or parts of plants are used, which can be mechanically comminuted before extraction. All comminution methods known to the person skilled in the art are suitable here, freeze grinding being mentioned as an example.

Organic solvents, water (preferably hot water at a temperature of above 80 ° C. and in particular above 95 ° C.) or mixtures of organic solvents and water, in particular low molecular weight alcohols with more or less high water contents, can be used as solvents for carrying out the extractions become. Extraction with methanol, ethanol, pentane, hexane, heptane, acetone, propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols and ethyl acetate as well as mixtures thereof and their aqueous mixtures is particularly preferred. The extraction is usually carried out at 20 to 100 ° C, preferably at 30 to 90 ° C, in particular at 60 to 80 ° C. In a preferred embodiment, the extraction takes place under an inert gas atmosphere to avoid oxidation of the active ingredients of the extract. This is particularly important for extractions at temperatures above 40 ° C. The extraction times are determined by the person skilled in the art depending on the starting material, the extraction process, the extraction temperature, the ratio of solvent to raw material, etc. set.

After the extraction, the crude extracts obtained can optionally be subjected to further customary steps, such as purification, concentration and / or decolorization. If desired, the extracts produced in this way can, for example, be subjected to a selective separation of individual undesirable ingredients.

The extraction can take place to any degree of extraction, but is usually carried out to exhaustion. Typical yields (= amount of dry matter of the extract based on the amount of raw material used) in the extraction of dried leaves are in the range from 3 to 15, in particular 6 to 10,% by weight.

The present invention encompasses the knowledge that the extraction conditions and the yields of the final extracts can be chosen by the person skilled in the art depending on the desired field of use. extracts

The Piperaceae extracts to be used according to the invention generally contain the essential oils of the Piperaceae. These are composed differently depending on the selected starting material and the selected extraction method. The ingredients of the extracts from betel pepper leaves are described by, for example, A. Rimando et al. in Arch. Pharm. Res. 9 (2), 93-97, (1986) or M. Sharma et al. in Indian Perf. 27 (2), 91-93 (1983) and in Indian Perf. 31 (4), 319-324 (1987), as well as by S. Carg in Indian Journal of Chemistry, Vol. 35B, 874- 875 (1996), to which express reference is made here.

The dry matter content of the extraction solutions can vary within wide limits depending on the starting material and the extraction method used. It is usually between 1 and 20% by weight, in particular between 2 and 10% by weight.

In a preferred embodiment, the extracts from betel pepper leaves according to the invention contain phenolic phenylpropane derivatives in different proportions; these compounds have the basic structure of 4-allylphenol (= Chavicol). Representatives of this class of compounds are hydroxychavicol (= allylpyrocatechol), hydroxychavicolmonoacetate, hydroxychavicoldiacetate, cavavicol (= 4- (2-propenyl) phenol), chavibetol (1-methoxyl-2-hydroxy-4- (2-propenyl) benzene = betelphenol) , Chavibetol acetate, methylchavibetol, eugenol and methyleugenol. Its non-phenolic phenylpropane derivatives include its anethole and safrol. The following can be present as terpenes: caryophyllene, terpinylacetate, camphene, 1, 8 cineol, p-cymen, α-pinene, β-pinene and terpinerol.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the extracts from betel pepper leaves contain as main component (> 25% by weight, based on the amount of the total extract, hydroxychavicol (synonyms: allypyrocatechol; 2-hydroxy-4-allylcatechol) and, in subordinate amounts, carvacrol (5-isopropyl -2-methylphenol) and caryophyllene (class of terpenes), particularly preferred is the use of an extract from betel pepper leaves which contains more than 40% by weight, in particular more than 50% by weight, hydroxychavicol.

The present invention includes the discovery that the properties of the Piperaceae plant extracts are caused by the interaction of a variety of compounds. For example, the nourishing and skin-friendly properties of betel pepper extracts are due to the interaction of the individual substances present in the extract. Einsatzmenqe

The amount of plant extracts used depends on the active ingredient content of the extract. As a rule, 0.01 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.05 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 2.5% by weight of the plant extract, based on the composition, are used.

Another object of the invention relates to the use of an agent containing the extract of at least one plant from the Piperaceae family for the production of cosmetic agents. The agents according to the invention show an excellent skin-care effect with high skin tolerance at the same time. In addition, they show good stability, particularly with regard to oxidative decomposition of the products.

Cosmetic products

The plant extracts according to the invention can be used to produce cosmetic products, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations, powders or ointments. These agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, superfatting agents, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, stabilizers, biogenic agents, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, Contain UV protection factors, antioxidants, hydrotropes, preservatives, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmentation agents), solubilizers, perfume oils, dyes and the like.

Typical examples of suitable mild, i.e. surfactants that are particularly compatible with the skin are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl or fatty acid alkyl fatty acids, alkyl oligamidoblucosides, preferably fatty acids Wheat protein base.

Suitable oil bodies are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear Ce-C ₂ 2-fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-Cι ₃ -carboxylic acids with linear C6 -C ₂ 2 fatty alcohols such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate - loleat, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, Behenylpal- palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, Erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucylerucate. In addition, esters, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of linear C6-C22-fatty acids with branched alcohols, of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C ₂₂ koholen -Fettal-, in particular Dioctyl Malate, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric Alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on Cβ-Cio fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on Cβ-Ciβ fatty acids, esters of C6-C ₂₂ - Fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols Cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-C22 fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or ve branched Cδ-C22 alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as squalane , Squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

> Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the Alkyl group and alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical; Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alk (en) yl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;

> Adducts of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

> Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

> Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; > Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (eg cellulose) saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;

> Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE 1165574 PS and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.

> Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts; Lanolin alcohol;

> Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

> Polyalkylene glycols and glycerine carbonate.

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out. Ci2 / ιs fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 2024051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic xystearinsäurediglycerid hydro, isostearic acid, Isostearinsäurediglycerid, Ölsäuremonogly- cerid, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolsäuremoglycerid, Ricinolsäurediglycerid, Linolsäuremonoglycerid, Linolsäurediglycerid, Linolensäuremonoglycerid, Linolensäurediglycerid, Erucasäuremonoglycerid, Erucasäurediglycerid, Weinsäuremonoglycerid, Weinsäurediglycerid, Citronensäuremonoglycerid, Citric diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the partial glycerides mentioned are also suitable.

As sorbitan sorbitan, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, Sorbitandiisostea- get advice, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan, sorbitan, Sorbitanmonoerucat, Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitandierucat, Sorbitantrierucat, Sorbitanmonorici- noleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydro- xystearat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, Sorbitandihydroxystearat, Sorbitantrihydroxystearat, Sor - Bitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan malimalate and their sorbitan trimalate. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3 diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® Gl 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleate, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate ® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chi- mexane® NL) , Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures.

Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, taig fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkylmethyl-3-carboxylate -3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. This is particularly preferred under the CTFA name Cocami dopropyl betaine known fatty acid amide derivative. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cβ-alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamido propylglycine, N-alkyl taurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkyl aminopropionic acid and alkyl amino acetic acid each about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are the N-coconut alkyl aminopropionate, the coconut acylaminoethyl aminopropionate and the C ₂ / i8 acyl sarcosine.

Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates , (e.g. Carbopole® from Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethyl-olpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucoside as well as electrolyte oligoglucosides ammonium chloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / inylimidazole polymers such as e.g. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryl-dimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, e.g. Amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyamino polyamides, e.g. described in FR 2252840 A and its crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane, cationic guar gum, e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidoneΛ / inylacrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornylacrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their polyols, and non-crosslinked polyacrylate and their esters, non-crosslinked acrylate - trimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert.Butylaminoethylmethacrylat / 2 Hydroxyproylmethacrylat copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / Vinylcapro- lactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones ,

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which are both liquid and at room temperature can be resinous. Simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, waxes include natural waxes, e.g. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microfax waxes chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), e.g. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as Polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question.

Metal salts of fatty acids, such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.

Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.

In principle, all substances effective against gram-positive bacteria are suitable as germ-inhibiting agents, such as. B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N ^' - (3,4 dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4 ^' trichloro-2 ^' hydroxydiphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro -3,5-dimethyl- phenol, 2,2 ^{'-methylene-bis} (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -1, 2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4 ^' trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol, mint oil, farnesol , Phenoxyethanol, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides such as B. salicylic acid-n-octylamide or salicylic acid-n-decylamide.

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Other substances which can be considered as esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example Lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester and malonic acid and their malonic acid and malcarboxylic acid, such as malcarboxylic acid and malcarboxylic acid Citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, as well as zinc glycinate.

Suitable odor absorbers are substances that absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance agents or perfume oils act as odor maskers and, in addition to their function as odor maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance. Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styralyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones, for example, the ionones and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols Anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanumol, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, cycloalene oil, allyl oil oil, orange oil oil, orange oil oil, orange oil oil, orange oil oil , Muscatel sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, Romilat, Irotyl and Floramat used alone or in mixtures.

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:

> astringent active ingredients,

> Oil components,

> nonionic emulsifiers,

> Co-emulsifiers,

> Consistency generator,

> Auxiliaries such as B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or

> non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. Aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds e.g. B. with propylene glycol-1, 2nd Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with amino acids such as glycine. In addition, customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants. Such oil soluble aids can e.g. his:

> anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils,

> synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or

> Oil-soluble perfume oils.

Common water-soluble additives are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusters, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as e.g. Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

As anti-dandruff agents, Octopirox® (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1 H) -pyridone-monoethanolamine salt), Baypival, Pirocton Olamin, Ketoconazol®, (4-acetyl -1 - {- 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1 H -imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1, 3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, selendi- sulfide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinole polyethylen toxylate, sulfur tar distillates, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylene acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecionate, zincpyrenium pyrene) / Dipyrithione magnesium sulfate can be used.

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.

Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

> 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1;

> 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;

> Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate-2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene) 4-methoxycinnamate;

> Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropyl benzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

> Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

> Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;

> Triazine derivatives, such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 A1 or dioctyl butamido Triazone (Uvasorb® HEB); > Propane-1,3-diones, such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

> Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as described in EP 0694521 B1.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

> 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

> Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

> Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters -4'-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione as well as enamine compounds, as described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way. The pigments can also be surface treated, i.e. are hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, e.g. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. typical Examples include amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carosin and their derivatives (eg anserine ), Carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione) , Cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) as well as their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, ximinathion) vertr Daily dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, Bilirubin, Bilidverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg Ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol , Carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordic hydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnS0 ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides , Peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

glycerol;

> Alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;

> technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight; > Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol; Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside; Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as, for example, sorbitol or mannitol, sugars with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as, for example, glucose or sucrose; Aminosugars such as glucamine; Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol.

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance. N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate are suitable as insect repellents, and dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanning agent. Arbutin, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used as tyrosine inhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents.

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert.-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenylglycinate, allyl cyclohexyl benzyl propylateionate, allyl cyclohexyl propyl pionate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeon, and the ketones include, for example, the jonones, oc-isomethyl ionone and methyl cedryl ketone the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpinol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma com Components are used as perfume oils, such as sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanumol, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably, bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, Cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel Sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures.

The dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40,% by weight, based on the composition. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.

Examples

Example 1: Obtaining an ethanolic Piper betle L extract

After freeze grinding in a Soxhiet apparatus, 75 g of dried leaves from Piper betle L. were extracted with 400 g of ethanol at 78 ° C. for 5 h. The extract solution (400g) was filtered and used directly as a crude extract. Alternatively, the ethanol was removed after the filtration and a highly viscous, dark brown colored liquid was obtained.

The extract thus obtained contained 45% by weight of hydroxychavicol.

Example 2: Obtaining a Piper betle L extract

155 g of dried leaves from Piper betle L. were extracted after freeze grinding in a Soxhiet apparatus with 840 g of ethyl acetate at 67 ° C. for 6 h. After the extraction, the crude extract solution was filtered and the ethyl acetate was drawn off. A highly viscous, dark brown colored liquid was obtained.

The extract thus obtained contained 52% by weight of hydroxychavicol.

Example 3: Obtaining an aqueous Piper betle L. extract

After freeze grinding in a Soxhiet apparatus, 71 g of dried leaves from Piper betle L. were extracted with 535 g of water at 100 ° C. for 7 h. The extract solution (400g) was filtered and the water was drawn off. A dark brown, sticky, powdery mass was obtained.

formulation Examples

The betel pepper extracts obtained according to Examples 1 and 3 were used in the following formulations K1 to K21 and 1 to 40 according to the invention. The cosmetic compositions produced in this way showed very good skin-care properties and, at the same time, good skin tolerance compared to the comparison formulations V1, V2 and V3. In addition, the inventive are very stable against oxidative decomposition. Tab. 1 Soft cream formulations K1 to K7

(All data in% by weight relating to the cosmetic agent ^' )

INCI name K1 K2 K3 K4 K5 K6 K7 V1

Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-12/20 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0

(and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate

Decyl Oleate 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0

Cetearyl isononanoate 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0

Glycerin (86% by weight) 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0

Betel pepper extract 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Tocopherol 1.0

Allantoin 0.2

Bisabolol 0.5

Chitosan (Hydagen HCMF) 1.0

Deoxyribonucleic acid ¹ > 0.5

Panthenol 0.5

Water ad 100

Tab. 2 night cream formulations K8 to K14

(All data in% by weight relating to the cosmetic agent)

INCI name K8 K9 K10 K11 K12 K13 K14 V2

Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 5.0 5.0

Glyceryl Oleate 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0

Beeswax 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0

Dicaprylyl ether 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0

Octyldocecanol 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0

Coco Caprylate Caprate 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0

Magnesium sulfates 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0

Glycerin (86% by weight) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0

Betel pepper extract 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 -

Tocopherol 1.0

Allantoin 0.2

Bisabolol 0.5

Chitosan (Hydagen HCMF) 1.0

Deoxyribonucleic acid ¹ > 0.5

Panthenol 0.5

Water ad 100

Tab. 3 W / O Bodviotion formulations K15 to K21

(All data in% by weight relating to the cosmetic agent) K15 K16 K17 K18 K19 K20 K21 V3

Castor oil hydrogenated + 7 EO 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0

Decyl Oleate 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0

Cetearyl isononanoate 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0

Glycerin (86% by weight) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0

MgS0 ^• 7 H2O 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Beetroot extract 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5

Tocopherol 2.0

Allantoin 0.2

Bisabolol 0.5

Chitosan (Hydagen HCMF) 1.0

Deoxyribonucleic acid ¹⁾ 0.5

Panthenol 0.5

Water ad 100

¹ > Deoxyribonucleic acid: molecular weight approx. 70000, purity (determined by spectrophotometric measurement of the absorption at 260 nm and 280 nm): at least 1, 7.

Table 4 recipes

Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%)

(1-4) hair conditioner, (5-6) hair conditioner, (7-8) shower bath, (9) shower gel, (10) washing lotion Table 4

Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%) - continued

(11-14) shower bath “Two-in-One, (15-20) shampoo Table 4

Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%) - continued 2

(21-25) bubble bath, (26) soft cream, (27, 28) moisturizing emulsion, (29, 30) night cream Table 4

Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%) - continued 3

(36, 37, 39) O / W sun protection cream

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic agents, characterized in that they contain an extract of at least one plant from the Piperaceae family.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that an extract of a Piperaceae from the genus Piper L. is used as the plant extract.

3. Composition according to claim 1 and / or 2, characterized in that an extract from the Piperaceae Piper betle L. is used as the plant extract.

4. Composition according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is produced from the leaves of the Piperaceae.

5. Composition according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract contains an allylphenol.

6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the extract contains hydroxychavicol as allylphenol.

7. Agent according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent contains 0.01 to 20 wt .-% of the plant extract.

8. Use of an agent containing the extract of at least one plant from the Piperaceae family for the production of cosmetic agents.