WO2003096998A1

WO2003096998A1 - Anti-dandruff shampoos

Info

Publication number: WO2003096998A1
Application number: PCT/EP2003/004776
Authority: WO
Inventors: Sybille Buchwald-Werner; Ute Griesbach
Original assignee: Cognis Deutschland Gmbh & Co. Kg
Priority date: 2002-05-16
Filing date: 2003-05-07
Publication date: 2003-11-27
Also published as: AU2003227728A1; DE10221741A1

Abstract

The invention relates to anti-dandruff shampoos containing an effective quantity of extracts of Camellia sinensis or of their active substances of the polyphenol type, particularly of the catechin and/or flavonoid type.

Description

Anti-dandruff shampoos

Field of the Invention

The invention is in the field of hair treatment compositions and relates to new antidandruff shampoos with an effective content of special plant extracts or their active ingredients, and their use for the preparation of the compositions.

State of the art

By the term dandruff, more precisely: dandruff, the cosmetic chemist understands parts of the horny layer of the skin that are rejected as part of the constant renewal of the skin layers. They are particularly well visible on the hairy head due to their sticking to tall aggregates due to sebum and sweat. A cosmetically disruptive scaling is counteracted by treating the scalp with anti-dandruff agents, which are usually applied in special hair treatment agents, so-called anti-dandruff shampoos. Selenium disulfide, pyrethione salts, shale oils and other microbicides are used as active ingredients, which have in common that they have skin-irritating properties, have an undesirable intrinsic odor and / or are difficult to incorporate into the formulations.

The object of the present invention was therefore to provide new antidandruff shampoos which are free from the disadvantages mentioned at the outset. In particular, the active ingredients should be of a vegetable nature and should not be further derivatized chemically, should not cause irritation, be free from unpleasant odors and be easy to formulate, and of course reliably prevent the undesirable formation of dandruff or reduce it to a level that is no longer disruptive. Description of the invention

The invention relates to antidandruff shampoos containing an effective amount of extracts of Camellia sinensis or their active substances of the catechin and / or flavonoid type.

Surprisingly, it was found that preparations which contain extracts of Camellia sinensis or their active principles (polyphenols, in particular catechins and or flavonoids) as active ingredients reliably prevent dandruff formation on the scalp to such an extent that it is no longer a problem. The active ingredients are of natural origin, are not chemically modified, are odorless and can be easily incorporated into the formulations.

Extracts from Camellia sinensis

Camellia sinensis is green tea which, as active ingredients ("tea tannins), contains essentially polyphenols, namely epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epigallocatechingallate, epigallocatechin gallate, theaflavin, theaflavin monogallate A or B and theaflavindigallate find themselves enriched in the extracts.

Catechine flavonoids

As a rule, the freshly dried tea leaves have catechin contents of 20 to 25% by weight, of which the epigallocatechin gallate alone makes up about 50 to 70% by weight. Thus, agents are preferred which have this active ingredient in particularly high concentrations.

The extracts can be prepared in a manner known per se, ie for example by aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic extraction of the plants or parts of plants or of the leaves or fruits. All conventional extraction methods such as maceration, remaceration, digestion, movement maceration, vortex extraction, ultrasound extraction, countercurrent extraction, percolation, repercolation, evacolation (extraction under reduced pressure), diacolation or solid-liquid extraction with continuous reflux are suitable. The percolation method is advantageous for large-scale use. Fresh plants or parts of plants can be used as the starting material, but usually dried plants and / or parts of plants are used, which can be mechanically comminuted before extraction. All comminution methods known to the person skilled in the art are suitable here, freeze grinding being mentioned as an example. Organic solvents, water (preferably hot water at a temperature of above 80 ° C. and in particular above 95 ° C.) or mixtures of organic solvents and water, in particular low molecular weight alcohols with more or less high water contents, can be used as solvents for carrying out the extractions become. Extraction with methanol, ethanol, pentane, hexane, heptane, acetone, propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols and ethyl acetate as well as mixtures thereof and their aqueous mixtures is particularly preferred. The extraction is usually carried out at 20 to 100 ° C, preferably at 30 to 90 ° C, in particular at 60 to 80 ° C. In a preferred embodiment, the extraction takes place under an inert gas atmosphere to avoid oxidation of the active ingredients of the extract. This is particularly important for extractions at temperatures above 40 ° C. The extraction times are determined by the person skilled in the art depending on the starting material. rial, the extraction process, the extraction temperature, the ratio of solvent to raw material, among others. After the extraction, the crude extracts obtained can optionally be subjected to further customary steps, such as purification, concentration and / or decolorization. If desired, the extracts produced in this way can, for example, be subjected to a selective separation of individual undesirable ingredients. The extraction can take place to any degree of extraction, but is usually carried out to exhaustion. Typical yields ( ^■ = dry matter amount of the extract based on the amount of raw material used) in the extraction of dried leaves are in the range from 1 to 25, in particular 2 to 22,% by weight. The present invention encompasses the knowledge that the extraction conditions and the yields of the final extracts can be selected by the person skilled in the art depending on the desired field of use. These extracts, which as a rule have active substance contents (= solids contents) in the range from 0.5 to 25% by weight, can be used as such, but it is also possible to complete the solvent by drying, in particular by spray or freeze drying - Dig to remove, leaving an intense red solid. The extracts can also serve as starting materials for the production of the above-mentioned pure active ingredients, provided that these cannot be produced more easily and inexpensively by synthetic means. Accordingly, the active substance content in the extracts can be 5 to 100, preferably 50 to 98% by weight. The extracts themselves can be present as aqueous and / or preparations dissolved in organic solvents and as spray-dried or freeze-dried, anhydrous solids. Examples of suitable organic solvents in this context are the aliphatic alcohols having 1 to 6 carbon atoms (eg ethanol), ketones (eg acetone), halogenated hydrocarbons (eg chloroform or methylene chloride), lower esters or polyols (eg glycerol or glycols).

Anti-dandruff agents

The agents according to the invention typically have a content of extracts of Camellia sinensis or its active ingredients in amounts of 0.01 to 15, preferably 0.1 to 5 and in particular 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the agents. In a particular embodiment of the invention, the antidandruff agents can contain further active ingredients known for this purpose than, for example, are: piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) - pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (climazole), Ketoconazol®, (4-acetyl-l - {- 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl)) r-2- (lH-imidazol-l-ylmethyl) - 1,3 -dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfuric ricinole polyethoxylate, sulfuric tar distillates, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylenic acid - monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate sodium salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate. The extracts or their active ingredients and the further antidandruff agents can be contained in the compositions in a weight ratio of 90:10 to 10:90, preferably 75:25 to 25:75 and in particular 60:40 to 40:60.

In addition, the preparations can furthermore - preferably - contain mild anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and / or zwitterionic and / or cationic surfactants. Typical examples are soaps, sulfonates alkyl benzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether, glycerol ether, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkylene ether sulfates, Glycerol ether, Fettsäureethersulfate, Hydroxymischethersulfate, Mo noglycerid (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids, such as, for example, acyl lactate, wheat acylate glate fatty acids, acyl glucosate fatty acid based on acyl glucosate fats and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides, protein fatty acids, and glucuric acid hydrochloride acids, or glucuric acid hydrochloride acids and glucuric acid silicate acids or glucuric acid silicate acid derivatives, especially vegetable products based on wheat), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and ester quats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, that is to say particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates or alkyl carboxylates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl carboxamides, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the antidandruff agents contain

(a) 10 to 50, preferably 20 to 40 wt .-% surfactants and

(b) 0.1 to 5, preferably 0.5 to 1 wt .-% extracts of Camellia sinensis or its active substances

with the proviso that the amounts given with water and possibly other auxiliary substances and additives are 100% by weight. Agents containing are particularly preferred

(al) 20 to 30, preferably 22 to 28% by weight of anionic surfactants,

(a2) 5 to 10, preferably 6 to 9% by weight of nonionic surfactants,

(a3) 1 to 5, preferably 2 to 4% by weight of amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants,

(b) 0.1 to 5, preferably 0.5 to 1 wt .-% extracts of Camellia sinensis or its active ingredients and

(c) 0 to 5, preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight of further antidandruff active ingredients,

also with the proviso that the amounts given with water and possibly other auxiliary substances and additives are 100% by weight.

Industrial applicability

Another object of the invention relates to the use of effective amounts of extracts of Camellia sinensis or of phenols, in particular catechins and / or flavoid as antidandruff agents. Based on the end products, the substances can be used in amounts of 0.01 to 15, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight.

In addition to the surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency enhancers, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, UN light protection factors, biogenic agents, antioxidants, these agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives , contain additional other anti-dandruff agents, film formers, hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like. Olkörper

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ come as oil bodies, for example -C ₃ - carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂ fatty alcohols, such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stylate stearate Cetylerucat, leat Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, Stearylo-, stearyl palmitate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, Behenylmy- ristat, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, Behe nyloleate, behenyl behenate, behenylerucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₈ -C ₃₈ alkyl hydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂ fatty alcohols (see. DE 19756377 AI ), especially dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -Crj fatty acids, liquid mono-, di- / triglyceride mixtures based of C ₆ -C ₈ fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C -C ₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 up to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, such as, for example, dic aprylyl carbonates (Cetiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (eg Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes. emulsifiers

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:> Adducts of 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms Atoms, on alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical; Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alk (en) yl radical and their ethoxylated analogs; Addition products of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

> Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil; > Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose) with saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide; > Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol. Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts; > Wool wax alcohols; Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives; Block copolymers, for example polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate; Polymer emulsifiers, for example Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich; Polyalkylene glycols and> glycerine carbonate. Ethylene Oxide

The adducts of ethylene oxide and or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs, the average degree of alkoxylation of which is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C _12/18 - fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Regarding the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.

partial glycerides

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride. Hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid moglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, erolene acid monoglyceride

Tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride as well as their technical mixtures, which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the partial glycerides mentioned are also suitable. > Sorbitan esters

Sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sorbitan sorbierucate, sorbitan esters

Sorbitantrieracat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, sorbitan tandihydroxystearat, Sorbitantrihydroxystearat, Sorbitanmonotartrat, sesqui- tartrate, Sorbitanditartrat, Sorbitantritartrat, Sorbitanmonocitrat, Sorbitansesquicitrat, sorting bitandicitrat, sorbitan, sorbitan, sorbitan, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan and their technical mixtures. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

> Polyglycerol esters

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleate, diisostearoyl polyglycerol ryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether ( Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures. Examples of other suitable ones

Polyol esters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.

> Anionic emulsifiers

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid. Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 -carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl carboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name cocamidopropyl betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylamino-butyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylamino acetic acids each about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are the N-coconut alkylaminopropionate, the coconut acylaminoethylaminopropionate and the Cι _/ ι ₈ acyl sarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Fats and waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, that is to say solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which essentially consist of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, and waxes include natural waxes, such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax and sugar cane wax , Ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes. In addition to fats, fat-like sub- punch like lecithins and phospholipids. The person skilled in the art understands the term lecithins as those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often used in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.

pearlescent

Pearlescent waxes that can be used are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid di ethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency agents and thickeners

Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, Polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. As a special Bentonites such as Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate, have also proven to be effective. Surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyloligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride are also suitable. Überfetτungsmittel

Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.

stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids, such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.

polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as, for example, a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as, for example, Luviquat® (BASF) , Condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as amodimethicone, copolymers of adiphylohydroxy acid and dimethylaminodiaminethyl (dimethyl) Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides and their cross-linked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline distributed, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, such as Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol. Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and polyesters and their esters, uncrosslinked polyols - amidopropyltrimethylarnmoniumchlorid / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / acrylate Methylmeth- / tert.Butylaminoethylmethacrylat / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / Ninylacetat copolymers, Nmylpyrrolidon / dimethylamino-ethylmethacrylatNinylcaprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose and silicones seether ,

silicone compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyf-modified silicone compounds which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature. Simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.

UN sunscreen

UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;

> Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester 2-cyano-3, 3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene); > Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

> Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester; Triazine derivatives, e.g. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-l'-hexyloxy) -l, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB); Propane-1,3-dione, e.g. l- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-l, 3-dione; > Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

> 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters -4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), l-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-l, 3-dione and enamine compounds. The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g. 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethyl-hexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with ester of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate. Such combinations with water-soluble filters such as e.g. 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts combined.

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used.

Biogenic agents and antioxidants

Examples of biogenic active ingredients are tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, β-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, essentielle ceramides, Plant extracts, such as To understand prunus extract, bambanus extract and vitamin complexes.

Antioxidants interrupt the photochemical reaction chain, which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine , Cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their Salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, himinathion), very low in compatible dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well Koniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butymydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyamsol, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutylbenzate and its derivatives, superficial derivatives, and its derivatives, urea dehydrobenzate, derivatives and their derivatives, superficial dehydrobenzene and its derivatives and its derivatives (for example ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (for example selenium-methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides , Peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.

Ouellmittel

Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

hydrotropes

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

glycerol; > Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons; technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

> Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

> Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside; > Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,

> Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose; Aminosugars such as glucamine;

> Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.

preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other substance classes listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.

Perfume oils and flavors

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, cumin, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme) ), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linylbenzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, lylpropionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones, for example, the jonones, α-isomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols Anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpinol, the hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balms. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavolanum oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, allyl glycolate, allyl glycolate, allyl glycolate, orangelyl oil, orol , Lavandin oil, Muscatel sage oil, ß-Damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evemyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floram or in mixtures. Suitable flavors are, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, winter green oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.

dyes

The dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. Examples are culinary red A (CI 16255), patent blue V (CI42051), indigotine (CI73015), chlorophyllin (CI75810), quinoline yellow (CI47005), titanium dioxide (CI77891), indanthrene blue RS (CI 69800) and madder varnish (CI 58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40,% by weight, based on the composition. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used. Examples

The following table shows a number of formulation examples for antidandruff shampoos. The quantities are understood as% by weight.

Table 1 Antidandruff shampoos

Claims

claims

1. Antidandruff shampoos containing an effective amount of Camellia sinensis extracts.

2. Antidandruff shampoos containing an effective amount of polyphenols, especially catechins and / or flavonoids.

3. Composition according to claims 1 and / or 2, characterized in that they contain active ingredients which are selected from the group formed by epicatechin, e-pigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, theaflavin, theaflavin monogallate A or B and theaflavine digallate.

4. Agent according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains extracts of Camellia sinensis or their active ingredients in amounts of 0.01 to 15 wt .-% - based on the agent.

5. Composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that they further contain additional anti-dandruff active substances which are selected from the

Group formed by piroctone olamine, climbazole, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulphide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfuric ricinole polyoxide, sulfuric tar distillates, salicylic acid, undexylenic acid, monoethynateylsulfonate, monoethynateyl sulfate, Aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate.

6. Composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they further contain mild anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and / or zwitterionic and / or cationic surfactants.

7. Composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it

(a) 10 to 50% by weight of surfactants and (b) 0.1 to 5% by weight of extracts of Camellia sinensis or its active ingredients

with the proviso that the amounts given with water and possibly other auxiliary substances and additives are 100% by weight.

8. Composition according to claim according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it

(al) 20 to 30% by weight of anionic surfactants,

(a2) 5 to 10% by weight of nonionic surfactants,

(a3) 1 to 5% by weight of amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants,

(b) 0.1 to 5% by weight of extracts of Camellia sinensis or its active ingredients and

(c) 0 to 5% by weight of other antidandruff agents

9. Use of effective amounts of Camellia sinensis extracts as an anti-dandruff agent.

10. Use of effective amounts of polyphenols, especially catechins and / or flavonoids as anti-dandruff agents.

11. Use according to claims 9 and / or 10, characterized in that the extracts or active ingredients are used in amounts of 0.01 to 15% by weight, based on the end products.