EP1414881A2

EP1414881A2 - Thickening agent

Info

Publication number: EP1414881A2
Application number: EP01985819A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Joaquin Bigorra Llosas; Cristina Amela Conesa; Maria Escoda; Rafael Pi Subirana
Original assignee: Cognis IP Management GmbH; Cognis Iberia SL
Current assignee: Cognis IP Management GmbH
Priority date: 2000-11-29
Filing date: 2001-11-20
Publication date: 2004-05-06
Also published as: WO2002044236A2; JP2004525995A; DE10059238A1; WO2002044236A3; US20040028742A1

Abstract

The invention relates to novel thickening agents of formula (I), R<1>O(CH2CH2O)n1CONH-X-NHCOO(CH2CH2O)mCONH-Y-NH-OC(OCH2CH2)N2OR<2> (I), wherein R<1> and R<2> independently represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and/or between 1 and 3 double bonds, the sum of n1 and n2 is equal to 0 or a number between 1 and 100, and m represents a number between 4 and 500, -[(CH2)z1-CR<3>R<4>]a1-[PH]x-[CR<5>R<6>-(CH2)z2]a2- (II) wherein R<3>, R<4>, R<5>, and R<6> independently represent hydrogen or alkyl radicals having between 1 and 4 carbon atoms, Ph represents an optionally alkyl-substituted phenyl radical and x, a1, a2, z1 and z2 independently represent 0 or 1.

Description

thickener

Field of the Invention

The invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to new polyurethane-based thickeners, a process for their preparation and their use for the production of cosmetic preparations.

State of the art

The setting of the viscosity is of particular importance for the production of cosmetic products. A consumer will only consider and use a cream as a cream if it maintains its high viscosity and external appearance even under adverse conditions, for example when exposed to temperature and long storage. Typical thickeners of the polyacrylate ("carbopole") type do not always meet these requirements. Polymers derived from polyethylene glycols (PEG), for example special diesters of high molecular weight PEG, have proven to be cheaper. However, the disadvantage here is that the Esterification must take place at comparatively high temperatures, which can lead to the fact that part of the PEG structure is degraded, resulting in PEG esters with a very heterogeneous distribution of the molecular weight, which has an adverse effect on the thickening properties.

Accordingly, the object of the present invention was to provide new thickeners which are free from the disadvantages described.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to new thickeners of the formula (I) R ¹ 0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ θ) " ₁ CONH-X-NHCOO (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _m CONH-Y-NH-OC (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n2 θR ² (I)

in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another for linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1 to 3 double bonds, nl and n2 in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 100, m for Numbers from 4 to 500,

- [(CH ₂ ) _zl -CR ³ R ⁴ ] _al - [Ph] _x - [CR ⁵ R ⁶ - (CH ₂ ) _z2 ] _a2 - (II)

in which R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Ph represents an optionally alkyl-substituted phenyl radical and x, al, a2, zl and z2 independently of one another represent 0 or 1.

Surprisingly, it has been found that polyurethanes based on fatty alcohol (ethoxylates), diisocyanates and polyethylene glycols are not only comparable in their thickening properties to the known PEG esters, but in some cases even superior, without having the known disadvantages, i.e. since they are produced at significantly lower temperatures, there is no undesired partial degradation of the polyethylene glycol chain.

Thickeners with particularly advantageous properties have at least one of the following structural features:

> R ¹ and R ² stand for linear, saturated alkyl radicals with 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

> nl and n2 mean 0; > m stands for numbers in the range from 100 to 250;

> The average molecular weight of all polyethylene glycol units contained in the molecule taken together is in the range from 5,000 to 10,000, preferably around 8,000 Daltons;

> R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^δ independently of one another represent hydrogen or methyl groups; > x stands for 1 and Ph for a phenyl or toluyl radical.

manufacturing

The invention further relates to a process for the preparation of thickeners of the formula (I),

R ¹ 0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _nl CONH-X-NHCOO (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _m CONH-Y-NH-OC (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n2 θR ² (I) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another for linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1 to 3 double bonds, nl and n2 in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 100, m for Numbers from 4 to 500, and X and Y independently of one another denote alkylene radicals of the formula (II),

in which R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Ph represents an optionally alkyl-substituted phenyl radical and x, al, a2, zl and z2 independently of one another represent 0 or 1 which fatty alcohols and / or their adducts with ethylene oxide of the formulas (III) and / or (IV),

R ¹ 0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _nl H (III)

R ² 0 (Crl ₂ CH ₂ 0) " ₂ H (IV)

in which R ¹ , R ² , nl and n2 have the meanings given above, together with diisocyanates of the formula (V),

OCN - [(CH ₂ ) _zl CR ³ R ⁴ ] _a - [Ph] _x [CR ⁵ R ⁶ (CH ₂ ) z ₂ ] _b -NCO (V)

in which R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ , Ph, x, al, a2, zl and z2 have the meanings given above, and polyethylene glycols of the formula (VI),

HO (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _m H (VI)

condensed.

Fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol ethoxylates

Typical examples of suitable fatty alcohols are those with 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 and in particular 16 to 18 carbon atoms, as there are: capro alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauric alcohol, undecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol , Isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. Cetyl and stearyl alcohol and their 1: 1 mixture (cetearyl alcohol) are preferably used. Instead of the fatty alcohols, their adducts can also have an average of 1 to 50, preferably 10 up to 30 and in particular 15 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide can be used, which can have both a conventionally broad and a narrow homolog distribution.

diisocyanates

In the case of the diisocyanates, preference is given to those in which R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and x is 1 and Ph is a phenyl or toluyl radical. The preferred - because less toxic to handle - diisocyanates thus have an aromatic structure, the position of the substituents being uncritical and essentially depending on the technical availability. Preferably, tetramethyl xylene, toluene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl xalmethan-4,4-diisocyanate are used ^Λ or isophorone diisocyanate.

Polyethylenqlycole

The preferred polyethylene glycols have a degree of condensation in the range from 100 to 250. For the thickening properties, it has been found to be optimal if the sum of all polyethylene glycol units contained in the molecule - that is to say including any EO adducts contained in the alcohol component - is in the range from 5,000 to 10,000 and in particular around 8,000 Daltons.

condensation

The condensation is a known polyurethane formation. Components (a) fatty alcohol (ethoxylate), (b) diisocyanate and (c) polyethylene glycol are usually used in a molar ratio of 2: 2: 1, the amounts used for components (a) and (b) being about can differ in each case 10 mol% in both directions. The reaction is usually carried out at temperatures in the range from 100 to 130, preferably 110 to 120 ° C. until the amount of free isocyanate has dropped below 0.1 mol%. Typical reaction times are 2 to 4 hours. As a rule, the polyurethane is formed in the presence of transition metal catalysts, especially tin salts and in particular tin tetraalkyl compounds, such as dibutyldiΙauryl tin (IV), which is used in an amount of 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the starting materials. In order to shift the reaction equilibrium to the side of the products, it is also advisable to continuously distill off the water of condensation released. Industrial applicability

The new polyurethanes are highly viscous even in highly dilute aqueous solution and have the property of also thickening those aqueous surfactant solutions which are otherwise difficult to influence in their theological properties. Another object of the invention accordingly relates to the use of condensation products from fatty alcohols or their ethylene oxide adducts, diisocyanates and polyethylene glycols of the formula (I) as thickeners for the production of cosmetic preparations in which they are present in amounts of 0.1 to 10, preferably 0.5 to 5 and in particular 1 to 2% by weight can be contained. If necessary, the viscosity of the aqueous solutions of the condensation products can be reduced again by adding fatty alcohols, for example cetyl alcohol, in amounts of 5 to 10% by weight. Another application and a further object of the invention relates to the use of the polyurethanes as auxiliaries in the extraction of proteins.

Cosmetic preparations

The thickeners according to the invention can be used to produce cosmetic preparations, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat compositions or stick preparations. These agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency enhancers, additional thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active ingredients, UV light protection factors, antioxidants , Deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.

surfactants

Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants can be present as surface-active substances, the proportion of these agents usually being about 1 to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, sulfate ethersulfates, sulfate ethersulfates, sulfate ethersulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, fatty acid ether sulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, fatty acid ether sulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, sulfate ethersulfate, fatty acid ether sulfates as , Mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid tauids, N-acylamino acids, such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl glucosate fate (acyl glucosate fate), Wheat-based products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides, especially glucoronic acid, or glucoramic acid derivatives, and glucoronic acid nuclei (glucoronic acid) derivatives, in particular, glucoronic acid (G) -glucoronic acid (G) -glucoronic acid (G) -glucoric acid-derived (G) -glucoramic acid-derived (G) -glucoramic acid (G) -glucoric acid-derived (especially glucoric acid) vegetable glucoric acid derivatives Wheat-based products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and esterquats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. With regard to the structure and manufacture of these substances, relevant reviews include, for example, J.Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J.Falbe (ed.), " Catalysts, surfactants and mineral oil additives ", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pp. 123-217. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, alkyl carboxylamides, alkyl carboxyl acids, ether carboxylic acid amides, ether carboxylic acid amides, alkyl carboxamides, alkyl carboxamides, alkyl carboxamides, alkyl carboxamides, alkyl carboxylates or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins. oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched Cs-C ₂₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ - Cι ₃ - carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl rucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyletyl stolate, cetyl stylate stolate, cetyl stearate stearyl, stearyl, Stearylisostearat, stearyl, stearyl, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl, Isostearylstearat, I sostearylisostearat, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleate, ristat Oleylbehenat, oleyl, Behenylmy-, behenyl, Behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, Behe nyloleate, behenyl behenate, behenylerucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₈ -C ₃₈ alkyl hydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched Cs-C ^ fatty alcohols (see. DE 19756377 AI), in particular dioctyl Malate, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (for example propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -Cι ₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / Triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₈ fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 Carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, such as Dicaprylyl carbonates (Cetiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (eg Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cydomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons , such as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes. emulsifiers

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

> Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and Alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical; > Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alk (en) yl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;

> Adducts of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

> Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

> Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;

> Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) as well as polyglucosides (eg cellulose) saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide;

> Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE 1165574 PS and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.

> Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;

> Wool wax alcohols;

> Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

> Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;

> Polymer emulsifiers, e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich; > Polyalkylene glycols as well

> Glycerine carbonate. > Ethylene oxide addition products

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or Propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out corresponds. Cι _{2 /} ι ₈ - fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 2024051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

> Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.

> Partial glycerides

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearinsäurediglycerid, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolsäuremoglycerid, Ricinolsäurediglycerid, Linolsäuremonoglycerid, Linolsäurediglycerid, Linolensäuremonoglycerid, linolenic acid diglyceride, Erucasäuremonoglycerid, Erucasäurediglycerid, Weinsäuremonoglycerid, Weinsäurediglycerid, Citronensäuremonoglycerid, Citronendiglycerid, Äpfelsäuremo- noglycerid, Apfelsäurediglycerid and their technical mixtures, which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the partial glycerides mentioned are also suitable. > Sorbitan esters

Sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sorbitan sorbierucate, sorbitan

Sorbitantrierucat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, sorbitan tandihydroxystearat, Sorbitantrihydroxystearat, Sorbitanmonotartrat, sesqui- tartrate, Sorbitanditartrat, dimaleate Sorbitantritartrat, Sorbitanmonocitrat, Sorbitansesquicitrat, Sorbitandicitrat, sorbitan, sorbitan, sorbitan, sorbitan, sorbitan and their technical mixtures. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

> Polyglycerol esters

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearates (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearates (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearates (Isolan® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl - sostearate (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), PolyglyceryI-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Creophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures. Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, taig fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.

> Anionic emulsifiers

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid. > Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylm -3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the

Alkyl or acyl group and the coconut acylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active connects fertilize be understood that / ι addition to a C ₈ ₈ alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 ₃ H group and the formation of internal salts capable of are. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci ₂ / ι ₈ -acylsarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Fats and waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, ie solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which essentially consist of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids. Natural waxes, such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, come among others , Ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as, for example, montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes. In addition to fats, fat-like additives also come as additives Substances such as lecithins and phospholipids in question. The person skilled in the art understands the term lecithins as those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often used in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.

pearlescent

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol stearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency generator and additional thickeners

Additional consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone. As special Bentonites such as Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate, have also proven effective. Surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyloligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride are also suitable.

superfatting

Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.

stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids, such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.

polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as, for example, a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylic amides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazole polymers, such as, for example, Luviquat® (BASF ), Condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as, for example, amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminetetroxamine / dimethylaminetroxine amine (dimethylaminohydroxyamin) , Copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, as described for example in FR 2252840 A, and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitos on, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, such as Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their polyesters and their esters cross-linked polyacrylic acids, acrylamido-propyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methylmethacrylate / tert.butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyramolidone and / or dimethylpyraminoethylamate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / polyacrylate / methacrylate as possible Cellulose ethers and silicones in question. Other suitable polymers and thickeners are in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

Silicone Compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl modified silicone compounds which are both liquid and resinous at room temperature can. Simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

UV light protection filters and antioxidants

UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

> 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, for example 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1; > 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethyl-hexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;

> Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);

> Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

> Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4 ^Λ -methylbenzophenone, 2,2 ^Λ -dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

> Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;

> Triazine derivatives, such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2 ^Λ -ethyl-r-hexyloxy) -l, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 AI or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);

> Propane-1,3-diones, such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4 ^, methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

> Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as described in EP 0694521 B1.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

> 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

> Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; > Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Typical UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives of benzoyl methane such as l- ^(4, -tert.Butylphenyl) -3- ^{(4-methoxyphenyl)} propan-l, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl -4 ^λ - methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), l-phenyl-3- (4 ^, -isopropylphenyl) propane-l, 3-dione and enamine compounds, as described in DE 19712033 AI (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, for example 4-tert-butyl-4 "-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethyl-hexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate. Such combinations with water-soluble Chen filters such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts combined.

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way. The pigments can also be surface treated, i.e. are hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated tandi oxide, e.g. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Other suitable UV protection filters are in the overview by P.Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996) and Parf.Kosm. 3, 11 (1999).

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples of this are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. Anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiou-racil and other thiols (eg Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) as well as their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsine sulfones, pentathinsine sulfones, pentane insulin sulfones, pentane insulin sulfones, pentane insulin sulfones, pentane insulin sulfones, pentane insulin sulfones, pentane insulin sulfones, pentane insulin sulfones, pentane insulin sulfones, pentinsion sulfones, pentinsion sulfones, pentinsinsulfones, pentinsinsulfones, pentinsinsulfones, pentinsinsulfones, pentinsinsulfones, pentinsinsulfones, pentinsinsulfones, pentinsinsulfones, pentinsinsulfanes, pentinsinsulfones, pentinsinsulfones, pentinsinsulfones, pentinsinsulfones, pentinsinsulfones, pentinsulfanes, peptides, in very ge wrestle compatible doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. - hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their Derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and their derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakarzarzäure, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide- _4- derutate (Zinc), Zinc (Zinc), Zn02-Dismutase (Zinc) and its derivatives (for example selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the ge according to the invention suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Biogenic agents

Examples of biogenic active substances are tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, β-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, essentielle ceramides, Plant extracts, such as To understand prunus extract, Bambaranus extract and vitamin complexes.

Deodorants and germ inhibitors

Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.

Anti-germ agents

In principle, all substances effective against gram-positive bacteria are suitable as germ-inhibiting agents, such as. B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N '- (3,4 dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4' -Trichlor-2 '-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (Triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethyl-phenol, 2,2'-methylene-bis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (l-methylethyl) -phenol, 2- benzyl-4-chIorphenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -l, 2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4 ^{'-Trichlorcarbanilid} OC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, Clove oil, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides such as B. salicylic acid-n-octylamide or salicylic acid-n-decylamide.

> Enzyme inhibitors

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Further substances which can be considered as esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesteric, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethyl glutarate, Adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester and zinc glycinate.

> Odor absorber

Suitable odor absorbers are substances that absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance agents or perfume oils act as odor maskers and, in addition to their function as odor maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance. Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and Grasses, needles and twigs as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the joonones and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols are anethole, Citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol,

Geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbana oil, labdanum oil and lavender oil. Bergamot oil, dihydro myrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citric oil, mandarin allyl oil, mandarin allyl oil, orlamine oil, orlamine oil, orlamine oil, orlamine oil, oramino oil, are preferred , Lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cydohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures used.

antiperspirants

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:

> astringent active ingredients,> oil components,

> nonionic emulsifiers,

> Co-emulsifiers,

> Consistency generator, > Auxiliaries such as B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or

> non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. Aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with propylene glycol-1,2. Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds, e.g. B. with amino acids such as glycine. In addition, customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants. Such oil soluble aids can e.g. his:

> anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils,> synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or

> Oil-soluble perfume oils.

Common water-soluble additives are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusting agents, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as e.g. Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.

Antidandruff agents

Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (climbazole), Ketoconazol®, (4-acetyl -l - {- 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1H-imidazol-l-ylmethyl) -l, 3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur-polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur-ricinole-polyoxyethylene, sulfur tar distillates, Salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate sodium salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate in question.

swelling agent

Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

Repellents of insects, self-tanners and depigmenting agents

Possible insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butyl acetylaminopropionate. Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner. Arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used as tyrosine inhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents.

hydrotropes

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

> Glycerin;

> Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons; > technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

> Methyl compounds, such as, in particular, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol; > Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;

> Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,

> Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

> Aminosugars such as glucamine;

> Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-l, 3-propanediol.

preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.

Perfume oils and flavors

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit bowls (bergamot, Lemon, oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage , Thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linoline benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropylate propylatepylatepylatepylatepylatepylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones, for example, the jonones, α-isomethyl ionone and methyl cedryl ketone , the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together have an appealing Generate fragrance. Essential oils of low volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably, bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, Cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel Sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cydohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures.

Suitable flavors are, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, cumin oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, winter green oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.

dyes

The dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. Examples are culinary red A (CI 16255), patent blue V (CI42051), indigo (CI73015), chlorophyllin (CI75810), quinoline yellow (CI47005), titanium dioxide (CI77891), indanthrene blue RS (CI 69800) and madder - lacquer (CI58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40,% by weight, based on the composition. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used. Examples

Example 1. Cetyl alcohol, tetramethylxylene diisocyanate and PEG-8000 were placed in a molar ratio of 2: 2: 1 in a laboratory reactor and mixed at 60 ° C. with vigorous stirring. Then 0.25% by weight, based on the starting materials, of dibutyldilauryltin (IV) was added and the temperature was raised to 115.degree. After the amount of free isocyanate had dropped below 0.1 mol%, the reaction was stopped, the mixture was cooled and the condensation product was removed. It was a colorless solid which showed a Brookfield viscosity (20 ° C., 10 rpm) of 1,250 mPas in 1.5% by weight aqueous solution and 9,700 mPas in 2% by weight solution.

Example 2. Analogously to Example 1, stearyl alcohol, toluene diisocyanate and PEG-8000 were reacted in a molar ratio of 2: 2: 1. A colorless solid was obtained which showed a Brookfield viscosity (20 ° C., 10 rpm) of 1,200 mPas in 1.5% by weight aqueous solution and 9,300 mPas in 2% by weight solution.

Example 3. Analogously to Example 1, cetyl alcohol + 50EO, tetramethylxylene diisocyanate and PEG-6000 were reacted in a molar ratio of 2: 2: 1. A colorless solid was obtained which had a Brookfield viscosity (20 ° C., 10 rpm) of 1,400 mPas in 1.5% by weight aqueous solution and 9,600 mPas in 2% by weight solution.

Example 4. Analogously to Example 1, cetyl alcohol and polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 8,000 were mixed in a molar ratio of 2: 1 and at 70 ° C. with vigorous stirring. The mixture was then heated to 115 ° C. and, under reduced pressure, 0.25% by weight of dibutyldilauryl-tin (IV) and such an amount of tetramethylxylene diisocyanate were added so that a molar ratio of alcohol: diisocyanate: polyethylene glycol of 2: 2: 1 set. After the amount of free isocyanate had dropped below 0.1 mol%, the reaction was stopped, the mixture was cooled and the condensation product was removed. It was a colorless solid which had a Brookfield viscosity (20 ° C., 10 rpm) of 1,250 mPas in 1.5% by weight aqueous solution and 9,700 mPas in 2% by weight solution.

Table 1 below contains a number of formulation examples. Table 1

Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%)

(1-5) bubble bath, (6) soft cream, (7, 8) moisturizing emulsion, (9, 10) night cream

Claims

claims

1. thickener of the formula (I),

R ¹ 0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ θ) _n ιCONH-X-NHCOO (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _m CONH-Y-NH-OC (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _rl2 θR ² (I)

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in _/ that R ¹ and R ² are linear, saturated alkyl having 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

3. Means according to claims 1 and / or 2, characterized in _/ that nl and n2 denote the 0th

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in _/ that m is a number in the range of 100 to 250 bar.

5. agent is at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in _/ that the average molecular weight of the polyethylene glycol units contained in the molecule, taken together in the range from 5000 to 10,000 Daltons.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in _/ that R ^3, R ^4, R ⁵ and R ⁶ are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

7. Composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that x represents 1 and Ph represents a phenyl or toluyl radical. Process for the preparation of thickeners of the formula (ϊ),

R ¹ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n ιC0NH-X-NHC00 (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _m C0NH-Y-NH-0C (0CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n2 OR ²

CD

in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another for linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1 to 3 double bonds, nl and n2 in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 100, m for Numbers from 4 to 500, and X and Y independently of one another denote alkylene radicals of the formula (II),

"[(CH ₂ ) _zl -CR ³ R ⁴ ] _al - [Ph] _x - [CR ⁵ R ⁶ - (CH ₂ ) _z2 ] _a2 - (II)

R ¹ 0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) mH (III)

R ² 0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n2 H (IV)

OCN - [(CH ₂ ) _zl CR ³ R] _a - [Ph] _x [CR ⁵ R ⁶ (CH ₂ ) _z2 ] _b -NCO (V)

in which R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁵ , Ph, x, al, a2, zl and z2 have the meanings given above, and polyethylene glycols of the formula (VI),

HO (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _m H (VI)

condensed.

Use of condensation products from fatty alcohols or their ethylene oxide adducts, diisocyanates and polyethylene glycols as claimed in claim 1 as a thickener for the production of cosmetic preparations. Use of condensation products from fatty alcohols or their ethylene oxide adducts, diisocyanates and polyethylene glycols according to claim 1 as an aid in the extraction of proteins.