WO1986000015A1 - Produit cosmetique pour les soins cutanes - Google Patents

Produit cosmetique pour les soins cutanes Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1986000015A1
WO1986000015A1 PCT/CH1985/000097 CH8500097W WO8600015A1 WO 1986000015 A1 WO1986000015 A1 WO 1986000015A1 CH 8500097 W CH8500097 W CH 8500097W WO 8600015 A1 WO8600015 A1 WO 8600015A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
permeability barrier
additive
regenerating
skin
phospholipid
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CH1985/000097
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Kurt F. Stocker
Roland Eichenberger
Original Assignee
Pentapharm A. G.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Pentapharm A. G. filed Critical Pentapharm A. G.
Publication of WO1986000015A1 publication Critical patent/WO1986000015A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/002—Aftershave preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61L—METHODS OR APPARATUS FOR STERILISING MATERIALS OR OBJECTS IN GENERAL; DISINFECTION, STERILISATION OR DEODORISATION OF AIR; CHEMICAL ASPECTS OF BANDAGES, DRESSINGS, ABSORBENT PADS OR SURGICAL ARTICLES; MATERIALS FOR BANDAGES, DRESSINGS, ABSORBENT PADS OR SURGICAL ARTICLES
    • A61L2400/00—Materials characterised by their function or physical properties
    • A61L2400/04—Materials for stopping bleeding

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic products for skin care which contain phospholipids and / or sphingolipids as additives having a superficially haemostatic effect and / or regenerating the skin's permeability barrier.
  • the permeability barrier which has the function of preventing excessive transcutaneous water loss and reducing the skin's permeability to pollutants, consists of intercellularly embedded lipid layers [see PM ELIAS, Lipids and the Epidermal Permeability Barrier, Arch. Derma - tol. Res. 2 0, 95-117 (1981)]. Damage to these lipid layers causes the skin to dry out and become rough. It has been found that the skin-damaging effect of shaving aids and shaving aftertreatment agents can be reduced or eliminated by giving them lipids which occur in animal tissues, in particular phospholipids or phospholipid mixtures and / or
  • Sphingolipids or sphingolipid mixtures The effect of these lipids is probably that they prevent the damage to the permeability barrier or promote the regeneration of the damaged permeability barrier.
  • aftershaves are usually alcoholic-water mixtures with bactericidal activity, which can contain additives with moisturizing and / or lipid-replenishing effects, bactericidal substances and astringent, epithelizing or anti-inflammatory active substances.
  • Aftershaves are usually alcoholic-water mixtures with bactericidal activity, which can contain additives with moisturizing and / or lipid-replenishing effects, bactericidal substances and astringent, epithelizing or anti-inflammatory active substances.
  • the aftershave to be tested was concentrated, whereupon the residue was taken up in a volume of 0.025 molar calcium chloride solution equivalent to the used aftershave volume.
  • 0.2 ml of the sample containing calcium chloride was added to 0.2 ml of human citrate plasma a at 37 ° C., after which the time elapsing before coagulation occurred was measured.
  • the clotting time of a plasma blank sample was measured using calcium chloride alone. The anticoagulant effect of the examined samples appears in the coagulation time, which is longer than that of the blank sample.
  • the disadvantageous effects of conventional aftershaves on haemostasis and blood coagulation are due to their acidity and / or their content of other substances which inhibit haemostasis and blood coagulation.
  • These substances can be divided into four categories.
  • the first category includes substances which inhibit the adhesion, aggregation and release reactions of the platelets. These substances include, for example, salicylic acid and its derivatives (methyl salicylate), which are often added to aftershaves as bactericides.
  • the third category contains surface-active substances which are used as lipid replenishing and skin conditioning agents and partly as solubilizers, which destroy the molecular order of the phospholipid micelles of the blood which are essential for the normal course of the hemostasis process.
  • surface-active substances which are used as lipid replenishing and skin conditioning agents and partly as solubilizers, which destroy the molecular order of the phospholipid micelles of the blood which are essential for the normal course of the hemostasis process.
  • surfactants which can be anionic, cationic or non-ionic in nature.
  • Compounds of different substance classes fall into the fourth category, which inhibit blood coagulation factors due to their general protein-denaturing effect.
  • Such substances are strong anionic or cationic surfactants, strong anionic or cationic film formers with high protein affinity, for example quaternized copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and acrylic acid polymers, quaternary ammonium bases, which are often used as bactericides Shaving waters are used, and acidic metal salts, for example Al "(SO) _, ZnSO. and alum.
  • strong anionic or cationic surfactants for example quaternized copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and acrylic acid polymers, quaternary ammonium bases, which are often used as bactericides Shaving waters are used, and acidic metal salts, for example Al "(SO) _, ZnSO. and alum.
  • the present invention relates Applicable methods fertil 'by certain naturally occurring lipids, more particularly sondere phospholipids and mixtures thereof and / or sphingolipids, or mixtures thereof, as a topically effective hae ⁇ mostyptisch and / or the permeability barrier of the skin regenerating additives generally in the Hautpfle- serving cosmetic products and especially in shaving aids and after-treatment agents.
  • the invention further relates to the cosmetic products containing the additives defined above.
  • lipid-containing additives in aliphatic halogenated hydrocarbons e.g. Methylene chloride
  • Extracts which are predominantly or only phospholi- pide can be obtained, for example, by degreasing adrenal glands using acetone, extracting the defatted tissue using an aliphatic chlorinated hydrocarbon, eg chloroform or methylene chloride, concentrating the extract to dryness, dissolving the residue in ether, filtering the solution and precipitating using ethyl alcohol become.
  • an aliphatic chlorinated hydrocarbon eg chloroform or methylene chloride
  • Extracts which contain predominantly or only sphingolipids can be obtained, for example, by lyophilization of bovine brain, extraction of the lyophilisate with methanol, extraction of the residues with a mixture of an aliphatic chlorinated hydrocarbon and an aliphatic alcohol, concentration of the extract by distillation in vacuo, cooling the Concentrates and separation of the excreted lipid mixture are obtained by filtration.
  • Extracts which contain both phospholipids and sphingolipids can be obtained, for example, by extracting bovine brain with acetone, extracting the defatted residue with methanol, extracting the solid
  • Residue can be obtained with a mixture of an aliphatic halogenated hydrocarbon and an aliphatic alcohol and removal of the solvent in vacuo.
  • the phospholipids used as topical hemostyptic additives and regenerating the permeability barrier form a class of substances which can be defined by the following formula:
  • R is an alkanoyl radical with 14 to 26 carbon atoms
  • R is an unsaturated aliphatic acyl radical with 16 to 22 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds
  • sphingolipids used according to the invention as regenerating the permeability barrier form a class of substances which can be defined by the following formula:
  • Ri represents a ⁇ en-alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxyalkyl or hydroxyalkenyl radical having 15 to 23 carbon atoms, the hydroxyl group with a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid or hydroxy fatty acid with up to
  • Carbohydrate residue consisting of glucose, galactose, N-acetylglucosamine, N-acetylgalactosamine and / or N-acetylneuraminic acid units, in which a hydroxy group can be esterified with a saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid, or a phosphorylcho represents linrest and n denotes an integer from 12 to 18. '
  • the phospholipids or phospholipid mixtures are particularly suitable as additives in shaving aids, for example foaming or non-foaming shaving creams, or in shaving aftertreatment agents, for example shaving lotions or shaving powders, which are both topically hemostatic and permeable regenerating effectiveness should be borrowed.
  • the phospholipid-containing additives can be added in amounts of about 1 to 20 mg, preferably 3 to 5 mg, of solid substance per 100 g of finished shaving aid or after-treatment agent.
  • the pH of an aftershave is also important for achieving an optimal hemostatic effect.
  • the pH is preferably adjusted such that when the aftershave comes into contact with the blood, a pH of about 6 to 9, preferably 7 to 8, which is favorable for blood coagulation, is established.
  • sphingolipids animal organ or cell extracts containing sphingolipids
  • polyols for example glycerol, sorbitol and butanetriol as humectants
  • Alkyl esters of dicarboxylic acids for example diisopropyl adipate, and aliphatic carboxylic acid esters of polyols, for example triacetylglycerol as refatting agents
  • Esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid, phenylalkanols for example phenylethyl alcohol, phenol and phenol derivatives, phenylurcuric compounds and thymol as Bak- tericides
  • surfactant for example, a compound of the formula
  • R is a coconut fatty acid residue (for example, representing the branded product Gafteric ® CM-2 / N, GAF Corporation, New
  • a substance that inhibits hemostasis and blood clotting may or may not have an effect by subjecting the substance in question to the blood coagulation test described above.
  • the phospholipids and sphingolipids can also be added to other cosmetic products which do not have to have topical hemostatic activity, but only that
  • the abovementioned lipids or lipid mixtures can be creams, in particular oil-in-water creams, liquid emulsions (lotions), for example of the oil-in-water type, friction, facial tonic, aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic - Gels, body powders, cosmetic sunscreen preparations, etc., are incorporated.
  • the phospholipids or their mixtures and / or the sphingolipids or their mixtures can also be used as such as finished (complete) cosmetic products alone, ie in the absence of other cosmetic additives, in the form of aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions .
  • example 1 finished (complete) cosmetic products alone, ie in the absence of other cosmetic additives, in the form of aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions .
  • the 40 g of cephalin obtained were together with 40 g of methyl p-oxybenzoate and 80 g of polyvinylpyrrolidone with an average molecular weight of 630,000 in 15 l of dist. Water with constant pH adjustment to 7.5 to 8.0 using 1N sodium hydroxide solution until a homogeneous cephaline suspension was formed. The volume was then distilled. Water added to 20 1.
  • 0.2 ml of the in calcium chloride solution 0.025 M 1:50 Dilute cephaline suspension caused 0.2 ml of human citrate plasma to clot in less than 100 seconds at 37 ° C., while a blank value with calcium chloride alone caused a clotting time of more than 150 seconds.
  • 0.2 ml of the solution diluted in calcium chloride solution 0.025 M in a ratio of 1:50 brought 0.2 ml of human citrate plasma to a coagulation in less than 100 seconds, while a blank value with calcium chloride caused a coagulation time of more than 150 seconds .
  • Example 5 To obtain a Sphingolipidfr accident with re ⁇ generating effect on the permeability barrier wur ⁇ the 10 kg bovine brain in the cutter homogenized lyophilized on stainless steel plates and the dry product 'twice during one hour each with 100 1 of methanol and once for 30 minutes with 50 1 Stirred methanol and filtered through a suction filter.
  • the filter residue was extracted for one hour with 100 1 methylene chloride 40% by volume in methanol and then, in a further operation, with 100 1 methylene chloride 50% by volume in methanol.
  • the combined methylene chloride-methanol extracts were concentrated to 5 l in vacuo and the concentrate for separating the sphingolipid mixture was kept at + 4 C for 24 hours.
  • the excreted lipids were separated by filtration and dried in vacuo; 30 g of dry matter were obtained.
  • the lecithin-free residue was then stirred twice with 50 liters of a mixture of methanol and methylene chloride in a ratio of 60:40 parts by volume for 3 hours at a time of 20-25 ° C. and each was filtered through a suction filter.
  • a shaving cream with both hemostyptic and skin permeability barrier regenerating properties as an aid for brushless shaving was obtained by adding 45 g of cetyl palmitate, 110 g of glycerol monostearate, 25 g of coconut oil, 5 g of coconut fatty acid and 7 g of B-hydroxyethyl-N -j'-carboxymethylkokosfettkla-amino doäthylamin (Gafteric ®, GAF Corporation, New York) brought at 60 C to melt and this melt slowly into a solution of 20 g of zube ⁇ according to example 7 ready before lipid suspension, 20 g of methyl stirring p-oxybenzoate, 70 g glycerol and .708 g dist. Water incorporated. Finally 10 g of perfume oil were added and the resulting cream was homogenized by machine.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • Pharmaceuticals Containing Other Organic And Inorganic Compounds (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Medicinal Preparation (AREA)

Abstract

Utilisation de phospholipides ou de mélanges de phospholipides et/ou de sphingolipides ou de mélanges de sphingolipides servant d'additifs à action hémostyptique topique et/ou à action de régénération sur la barrière de perméabilité de la peau, dans des produits cosmétiques pour les soins cutanés, et produits cosmétiques contenant ces additifs. Les lipides mentionnés peuvent être obtenus par extraction de tissus ou de cellules animales.
PCT/CH1985/000097 1984-06-15 1985-06-13 Produit cosmetique pour les soins cutanes WO1986000015A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH290784A CH658785A5 (de) 1984-06-15 1984-06-15 Haemostyptisch wirksames hautpflegemittel.
CH2907/84-5 1984-06-15

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO1986000015A1 true WO1986000015A1 (fr) 1986-01-03

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ID=4244294

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/CH1985/000097 WO1986000015A1 (fr) 1984-06-15 1985-06-13 Produit cosmetique pour les soins cutanes

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0185688A1 (fr)
CH (1) CH658785A5 (fr)
WO (1) WO1986000015A1 (fr)

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE4006563A1 (de) * 1988-09-02 1991-09-05 Reutter Werner Verwendung von phospholipid- und phosphorsaeureesterderivaten fuer kosmetika
FR2674748A1 (fr) * 1991-04-03 1992-10-09 Oreal Utilisation de sphingolipides dans la preparation d'une composition cosmetique ou dermopharmaceutique protegeant la peau et les cheveux contre les effets nocifs de la pollution atmospherique.
FR2692781A1 (fr) * 1992-06-24 1993-12-31 Sederma Sa Nouvelles compositions cosmétiques contenant des sphingomyélines et autres lipides complexes.
WO1994000127A1 (fr) * 1992-06-19 1994-01-06 The Regents Of The University Of California Lipides pour l'humidification de l'epiderme et la restauration de la fonction de barriere
WO1995013791A1 (fr) * 1993-11-15 1995-05-26 Unilever Plc Compositions cosmetiques a base de ceramides

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE244430C (fr) *
CH242457A (de) * 1944-05-20 1946-05-15 Sa Unip Verfahren zur Herstellung eines polyvalenten Blutstillungsmittels.
CH271774A (de) * 1948-06-11 1950-11-15 Gibone Anstalt Verfahren zur Herstellung eines polyvalenten Blutstillungsmittels.
CH399655A (de) * 1961-07-07 1965-09-30 Hoffmann La Roche Hautpflegemittel
DE2004408A1 (en) * 1970-01-31 1971-08-19 Keimdiat GmbH, 8900 Augsburg Cosmetically action material prodn
EP0038511A2 (fr) * 1980-04-17 1981-10-28 Rolf Dr. Schäfer Compositions pour guérir des blessures
EP0150712A2 (fr) * 1984-01-04 1985-08-07 Bioiberica, S.A. Méthode d'obtention d'un complexe de glycosphingoslipide

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE244430C (fr) *
CH242457A (de) * 1944-05-20 1946-05-15 Sa Unip Verfahren zur Herstellung eines polyvalenten Blutstillungsmittels.
CH271774A (de) * 1948-06-11 1950-11-15 Gibone Anstalt Verfahren zur Herstellung eines polyvalenten Blutstillungsmittels.
CH399655A (de) * 1961-07-07 1965-09-30 Hoffmann La Roche Hautpflegemittel
DE2004408A1 (en) * 1970-01-31 1971-08-19 Keimdiat GmbH, 8900 Augsburg Cosmetically action material prodn
EP0038511A2 (fr) * 1980-04-17 1981-10-28 Rolf Dr. Schäfer Compositions pour guérir des blessures
EP0150712A2 (fr) * 1984-01-04 1985-08-07 Bioiberica, S.A. Méthode d'obtention d'un complexe de glycosphingoslipide

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
CHEMICAL ABSTRACTS, Vol. 100, No 26, June 1984, Columbus, Ohio (US) SZCZEPANSKA HANNA et al.: "Spinal Cord Lipids of Slaughtered Animals as a Valuable Cosmetic Raw Material", see page 327, Abstract 215283p & Pollena: Tluszcze, Srodki Piorace, Kosmet- 1983, 27(8), 117-22 *

Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE4006563A1 (de) * 1988-09-02 1991-09-05 Reutter Werner Verwendung von phospholipid- und phosphorsaeureesterderivaten fuer kosmetika
FR2674748A1 (fr) * 1991-04-03 1992-10-09 Oreal Utilisation de sphingolipides dans la preparation d'une composition cosmetique ou dermopharmaceutique protegeant la peau et les cheveux contre les effets nocifs de la pollution atmospherique.
WO1992017160A1 (fr) * 1991-04-03 1992-10-15 L'oreal Utilisation de sphingolipides, dans la preparation d'une composition cosmetique ou dermapharmaceutique protegeant la peau et les cheveux contre les effets nocifs de la pollution atmospherique
US5683684A (en) * 1991-04-03 1997-11-04 L'oreal Use of sphingolipids in the preparation of a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition protecting the skin and hair against the harmful effects of atmospheric pollution
US5869034A (en) * 1991-04-03 1999-02-09 L'oreal Use of sphingolipids in the preparation of a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition protecting the skin and hair against the harmful effects of atmospheric pollution
WO1994000127A1 (fr) * 1992-06-19 1994-01-06 The Regents Of The University Of California Lipides pour l'humidification de l'epiderme et la restauration de la fonction de barriere
US5643899A (en) * 1992-06-19 1997-07-01 Cellegy Pharmaceuticals, Inc. Lipids for epidermal moisturization and repair of barrier function
FR2692781A1 (fr) * 1992-06-24 1993-12-31 Sederma Sa Nouvelles compositions cosmétiques contenant des sphingomyélines et autres lipides complexes.
WO1995013791A1 (fr) * 1993-11-15 1995-05-26 Unilever Plc Compositions cosmetiques a base de ceramides

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP0185688A1 (fr) 1986-07-02
CH658785A5 (de) 1986-12-15

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